The document summarizes key fashion looks of the 1940s, which were heavily influenced by World War 2. Some key points: 1. Fashion emphasized utility over frivolity due to rationing and women joining the workforce. Silhouettes were angular with padded shoulders. 2. Icons like Rosie the Riveter and styles like the utility suit honored women's war contributions. Designers like Claire McCardell popularized casual sportswear. 3. Eveningwear featured luxurious fabrics like satin and velvet in classic styles like sheath dresses. Colors were generally muted patriotic hues.

1. F A S H I O N
D E S I G N
K E Y L OO KS OF T H E F ASH IO N DESIGN
I N 1 9 4 0 S :
0 2 . 0 5 . 2 0 1 8
B Y İREM ARIKAN E K Ş İ

2. “Il faut ‚skimp’ pour etre chic„ (Vogue,
October 1941) means you must skimp to be chic.

3. • Fashion is driven by social trends. With
WW2 (1939-1945) things changed very
quickly!
“Fashion is Indestructable„
Photo : Cecile Beaton -
Vogue (British) 1941

4. 1940s meant war for most nations,
either fighting or recovering or being
influenced by the crisis.

5. • U.S ; Great Britain ; France ; Soviet
Union ; China were the allies.They
fought with Italy, Germany and Japan.
WW2 started in 1930 and ended in 1945.
• Every man, woman and child was
actively involved in this war.
• FASHION also faught in this war
to a “new look„ and victory!

6. If we lived in that time period and in one of
those lands we would have participated to
war work duties or to the army…

11. All women under 47 were obliged to
participate into war work…

12. Even by knitting!

14. Rosie The Riveter : “Take a job!
Release a Man For
War„(Vogue)

15. • “Rosie The Riveter„ is an American icon for women factory workers of
WW2 period. Rosie The Riveter spirit was intended to encourage
and honour the WW2 women. Their hard work honored; their
hardships seen… in the way of VICTORY! American Victory
clothing and the Victory curls of 1940s women…

18. The curvaceous and feminine 1930s gave way to an
angular, hard, muscular silhouette with strong, broad
shoulders and to women who “kept their figures„.
1940s body ideal is a body with
STRONG SHOULDERS
HIGH BREASTS
TAUT WAIST
STRONG HIPS
MUSCULAR LEGS
photo : Abbye Pudgy Stockton

20. • Esther Williams is another strong woman icon . She was an olympic swimmer who then became a movie star.

21. • Betty Grable displays also a body ideal of 1940s that is cute and
curvy.

22. Driven by wartime economy ; the sculptural
silhouette was the result of government rationing
(karneye bağlama) and of women joining to work
force after all men joined service in the army.
This body was ideal for 1-UTILITY CLOTHING + 2-
UNIFORM + 3- WAR WORK CLOTHES

23. • Everything saved, recycled and rationed (karneye bağlandı) forV. Last
photo was taken in 1944 when nylon stockings arrived to Britain.

24. • Utility Clothing emerged in 1941. It was introduced
by Great Britain to aid economic situation of war.
Utility clothing has "CC41" label (Civilian Clothing
1941) . They have minimum quality standards.

25. • “Couture Austerity„(Vogue) or Austerity Chic (İdareli Şıklık) of wartime
fashion is driven by restrictions on materials. Silhouette of looks became refined. It was unpatriotic
to have flounces(volan) and fripperies(süs):
1. Straight manish style cut suits
2. Sharp edged shoulder pads to give women practical dynamic mood as they
are wartime workers
3. Short jackets like 63,5 cm, barely buttoned in waist
4. Single breasted (some designers have double breasted) unlined often
5. If lined then with rayon
6. To save materials cuffs(manşet) and patch pockets(dıştan cep) were banned
in U.S : NO FABRIC ON FABRIC
7. Wool was scarce so thick heavy rayon+jersey wool+crepe fabrics took place
8. Soft velveteen suits
9. Gored(parçalı) skirts
10.Platform heels in cork(mantar) or wood.

26. • Norman Hartnell 1940s
utility suit in brown: Utility
designs followed the square
shouldered and short skirted
fashions of the war era but
adhered to strict regulations
for using minimal cloth.
• Buttons were limited to
three and turn back cuffs
(manşet) were forbidden.

27. • Utility Clothing (Britain) - Victory Suit (America) -
Everyman’s clothing (Germany)

28. • Restrict style + Simplify design to save material and labour :
Designers of famous CC41 labelled clothing are Tina Leser ;
Claire Mc Cardell(Townley Frocks) ; Norman Hartnell ; Bianca
Mosca ; Hardy Amies ; Adolph Schuman ( Lilli Ann - label ) ;
Stella Brownie&William Fox(Foxbrownie)

29. • Lets look at some looks of 1940s designers (Fred A. Block, Adolph Schuman -
The Lilli Ann label- ) that found their ways from the utility suits

31. • 1940s famous Fred A Block stud jacket

36. • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UK5jRnV-
1A
• This video is a short documentary about the
British Incorporated Society of Fashion
Designers established in 1941-1942 and the 34
assembled designs each with 12 different textiles
and 10 different colors which made each design
in 120 different variations.

37. SIREN SUIT : is designed for the purposes of warmth(sıcak tutması) and modesty(örtünme-
korunma). People wore siren suit in air raid shelters (hava saldırısından korunmak için
sığınaklarda). It was meant to be worn easily and quickly over night clothes during an air
raid at night announced by sirens. It is a one piece of garment for adults and children.

38. • E. Schapirelli air raid jumpsuit.

40. • Cultural Influence: South America - Cuba. The painter is Mario
Carreno

41. • Mexican peasant blouse

42. • Bakelite accessories

43. • UNIFORMS and WORK CLOTHES

44. • Yet, 1940s created modern trends! : platform shoes

45. vintage chunky heel pumps(dans ayakkabısı) of 1940s

46. Yet, 1940s created modern trends! : ruching (büzgüler: giysinin ortasında boylu boyunca
yapılan büzgüler: bu örnekler gibi) and shirring(büzgü: bir iki sıra halinde sayılı büzgüler)

47. • Yet, 1940s created modern trends! : sweetheart
neckline (kalp yaka)

48. • Yet, 1940s created modern trends! : peplum(üst parçaya belden eklenen ve beli daha ince gösteren
parçalı kıyafetlerin genel adı)
• http://myvintagevogue.com/gallery/index.php?level=album&id=5&mode=slideshow

49. • Yet, 1940s created modern trends! : bolero jackets

50. • star sequin(payet) studded midnight dress from blue rayon and cape by Hattie Carnegie,
1945. Sequins were favored in evening dresses because there were no restrictions and
sewn on everything…

51. Hattie Carnegie ; sequin evening dress 1945

52. • This video is a short summary of
a selection of well known 1940s
movies like Casablanca and
Wonderful Life.
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=
Ca60AztBp0g

53. • Charles James transformed dressmaking into an art form with his
sculptural cuts that had asymmetric shapes from heavy satin, velvet
and faille. He was also the head of costume department of Metro
Goldwyn Mayer from 28 to 41. He was an inspiration for Christian Dior
and Balenciaga. For more of his work take a look at this link; and
watch the video on the second link:
• https://theredlist.com/wiki-2-23-1249-1256-view-1950s-profile-charles-
james-3.html
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAyZPipC6is

55. • Jo Copeland’s (Pattullo brand) evening gowns have
cascading ruffles, silks and wide draperies…

56. • COLORS AND TEXTILES OF 1940s

57. • COLORS are drab (soluk) but mostly unitary hues . Air force Blue
-brown - greens - black -flag red are the colors of patriotism.

58. • Flag colors and green tones in rayon and knit 1940

59. • Restrict style + Simplify design to save material and labour :
Designers of famous CC41 labelled clothing are Tina Leser ; Claire
Mc Cardell(Townley Frocks) ; Norman Hartnell ; Bianca Mosca ;
Hardy Amies ; Adolph Schuman ( Lilli Ann - label ) ; Stella
Brownie&William Fox(Foxbrownie) : Mc Cardell pop-over dress

60. 1940s McCardell Jumper dress -

61. 1940s McCardell Sundress- swimsuit -
playsuit

62. • Claire McCardell was the pioneer of American casual and sports wear;
creator of American look. She is also known as the forerunner of Calvin Klein.
She introduced simple and functional designs with unsophisticated fabrics
like chambray (like denim but woven in plainweave) + cotton jersey( a knit fabric that can stretch to 25
%, used for comfy clothes) + denim and mattress ticking(striped upholstery fabric).
• Her trademark
of summer
dresses with
graph paper
check. 1946

63. McCardell:
• Functionality of sportswear
• Experimentation with cut for trouser suits
• long shorts in jersey wool with streamlined hooded
sweaters
• monastic dress claimed as triumph by Vogue
• popover dress was such success
• playclothes in denim with white topstitching were popular
• sundresses with spagetti straps to form a halterback

64. • Experimentation
with cut for
trouser suits:
1946 Arabian
Night trouser
set in grey
rayon jersey

65. • long shorts in jersey wool with streamlined
hooded sweaters

66. • monastic dress claimed as triumph by Vogue
• playclothes in denim with
white topstitching

67. • sundresses with spagetti straps to form a halterback
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m63d_H3C6Tk

68. KEY LOOKS OF 1940s:
slacks (geniş pantolon)

69. KEY LOOKS OF 1940s:
gingham fabrics (küçük kareli kumaş)

70. KEY LOOKS OF 1940s:
Utility suit

71. KEY LOOKS OF
1940s:
Couture Eveningwear
Greek inspired
sheath(fitted)
dresses, columnar
dresses

72. KEY LOOKS OF 1940s:
Casual wear - sports wear,
midriff baring tops

73. KEY LOOKS OF 1940s:
Jersey shift (roomy) dresses

75. 1940s Turkey