Key fashion moments in early times

1. COSTUME IN HISTORY 1 : PREHISTORIC COSTUME – selective account-
COSTUME IN ANATOLIA
İrem Arıkan
Resources:
What People Wore When, a complete illustrated history of costume from Ancient Times to
the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society
cons.ed: Melissa Leventon, 2008, St. Martin’s Griffin, NY
The History of Costume, 2nd ed.,
B.Payne, G.Winakor, J. Farrell-Beck,1992, Harper CollinsPublishers
20,000 Years of Fashion; F.Boucher, Expanded Ed. 1987, Harry N. Abrams, NY
Tarih Boyunca Anadolu’da Giyim Kuşam, S.Türkoğlu, 2002, İstanbul

2. HISTORY OF COSTUME and
CLOTHING 1:
• FIRST HUMAN BEINGS: North Eastern Africa
millions of years ago,
• First sights of western civilization 5000-6000
years ago in Mesopotamia
• The Earliest evidence of clothing:RUSSIA North
of Moscow-Sunghir – 26 000 years ago.
Skeletons covered with beads of mammoth ivory
lying in a pattern means they must have been
-most probably- sewn to the clothing, which were
decomposed like the skin whereas the beads
remained in the soil.

4. Elemental functions of clothing for
pre-historic people and ancient
civilizations
• Protection from outer
environment
• Magical-Religious –ornaments,clothing identified
the wearer with animals, gods, heroes.
• Attraction – Belonging- the need to
identify oneself as unique individual and also being a member of one or
more specific groups, society

6. • HYPOTHESIS of ANTROPOLOGISTS:
• Nude figures had greater “magic” than clothed ones, grotesque
distortions in faces and bodies were somehow related to beliefs
about the “supernatural”.

10. • Development of European Costume can be divided into
three phases(Boucher):
1- Earliest Antiquity to 14th century
• in most civilizations costume underwent little change-
yet there is diversity
• Long, loose,draped + remains of magical and religious
functions
2-14th century to the second half of 19th century, industrial
expansion. 14 th century is the period where costume
gained national and personla characteristics. Political +
commercial organizations have effects on costume. Each
nation formed her own style. “Civilian” costume comes from
this period.
3-From 1850 till today: More international, less personal.
Influence of industrial mass production + European
expansionism. Haute Couture wants the preservation of
‘personal’ costume

12. western civilization started 5000-
6000 years ago in Mesopotamia

13. A dress may identify:
• Authority-occupation()warrior’s costume suggest that he is
superhuman-physical superiority
• Social position- power or material
prosperitymilitary uniform denotes rank
• Religious significance-: an actual or symbolic
identification with (a) god
• Family-group-clan
• A desire to please- according to Boucher, only latterly that
primitive man’s costume expressed a desire to please.

14. • Not all pre-historic peoples developed clothing
adopted to their environment-climate: ex:
natives of the himalaya mountains went
barefood on the snow + inhabitants of Tierra
del Fuego at southernmost tip of South
America- close to Antartica- go without clothing!
• In historic times protection from cold and
comfort in hot weather has often been
secondary to other functions of clothing.

18. Kalkolitik çağ-mesolithic
Stone and metal are
used and refined.

19. Neolithic-ilk tunç
çağı:

24. 2000 b.c- i.ö 2000:

44. Sumerian-
Kaunoke=
shawl

50. FRIGYA
i.ö 750-300

51. • Yozgat vilayetinden Kürt Kadın, 1873, “1873 Yılında Halk
Giysileri”

53. Ionia- Efes Artemisi

55. Chiton(khiton) ve Hemation

56. • İonya=Ionia=Ancient Greek// Hellens are
called as Ions by Eastern civilizations.
• An individual artistic style was born in Ionia.
• Classic Greek art is originated here.
• Efes is an important city of Ionia, so as Efes
Artemis.
• Artemis Cult is originated from Goddess
Kybele.
• Artemis monastery statues were dressed
everyday by the priestesses.

57. • Chiton and Himation are tunics of some
type. Chiton is widely known as Ion chiton.
• Chiton=Kutanum(Mesopotamian
Nations)=
• Kitoneh(Aramaic)(worn as true ionic chiton
after 500 b.c)
• Before chiton peplos- a simple rectangle
fabric, shorter- was worn.

59. • Chitons are worn on skin, thin layer of fabric,
usually from flax.
• Hemations are worn on chitons as
cloak(manto gibi, şal gibi, ör: kaunoke).

60. • Ionia as a fashion center around 500 B.C.
• Himations are attached on right or left shoulder by
fibulas.Or on both. Pleats and the hanging style
can indicate style difference.(Prof. Ramazan
Özgan)
• Chitons are sewn or attached(bağcık gibi) from
shoulder to elbow.
• Peplos is a Dorian costume.No sleeves. Attached
by fibulas on both sides. On the sides,
ornamentation…Back side of peplos could be
used as veil when necessary.
• Peplos are wool. Not very loose and nicely

63. Çanakkale-assos figürinleri: kapüşonlu
hemation ve göğsü de pilili khitonları

64. Lydia’lılar: