2. HDR PHOTOGRAPHY
To achieve an HDR (high dynamic range) filter on photographs I used the program Photomatix and took
a range of about 5 photographs, all of the 5 photographs having different exposure settings. I then put
them into the program and it merges all of the photographs together. When taking the photographs I
used a tripod so that all the photographs could be the same and as accurate as possible, making sure
there wasn't any unnecessary shadowing.
Once all five photographs have been taken
at five different exposure rates, I put them
into the program Photomatix which merged
my photographs together and on the left
side of the screen it gave me the option to
alter the strength, color saturation, detail
contrast and adjust the lighting. To achieve
the look I was going for I put the strength at
the highest possible rate as I wanted my
photograph to have a strong filter on it.
As you can see on the right side of the screenshot, there are a list of different types of HDR filters to
choose from of which you can alter, this screenshot also shows one of my final edited images. As you
can see I have made the strength on the photograph very strong as I want the detailed parts of the
photograph to stand out, such as the bricks and the peeling paint on the fence.
3. DODGING AND BURNING
Dodging and burning is used to define parts of the face and darken and lighten
parts of the face. First, I had to make two curve layers, one for dodging and one for
burning. Once I selected the ‘dodge’ layer, I had to select the lightest part of my
models face and increase the contrast/brightness to my liking. Then, I selected the
burning layer, then I selected the darkest part of my models face with the picking
tool, then I lowered the curve to make the surface of the photograph darker. Take
note that my dodge and burn layers have layer masks on them, this is so I have
more freedom with my use of the dodge and burning and I am able to undo
unnecessary marks I don’t want.
Here you can see how I have moved the curve up on the dodge layer
so that I could use my brush to dodge areas around the face. I used
this small tool on the left side of the adjustment tab to pick the lightest
color on the face of the model to brighten the photograph. I then
began to skip between the dodge and burn layers to define Owen’s
face.
To achieve the dodging and burning technique I used Photoshop CS4, on the left side of the
program, there are a list of tools to use, I used to the paintbrush tool whilst dodging and
burning as this gave me the freedom to define any part of Owen’s face.
4. BEFORE AFTER
As you can see from the before and after picture there is a significant change to Owen’s
face. I have used the burn tool around Owen’s eye to make him look tired, but also used
the dodging tool to lighten parts of his face.
5. CLONE STAMPING AND HEALING
The healing tool selects information around
it and uses that tone to cover up any
unwanted blemishes or spots on the face.
On the left side of Photoshop CS4 is the
selection of tools to use, I used the clone
stamp and the healing brush.
The clone stamp brush is a manual selection
of information rather than it being
automatically chosen for you. For me to use
the clone stamp I had to hold down the ALT
button and click on the area in which I
wanted to select information from.
The clone stamp and healing tools are
mostly used to hide imperfections and
blemishes from portrait photographs but
can also be used to manipulate photographs
in other ways too.
BEFORE AFTER
As you can see from the before and after pictures, I have used the
clone stamp and healing tool to cover up some blemishes and
spots, I personally prefer and like using the healing tool as it
automatically selects the information for you which is a quicker
process than having to select the information yourself.