Introductory talk on natural dyes

1. © Project SOUND
California Colors:
Experiences with Native
Plant Dyeing
Barbara Sattler and Connie Vadheim
South Coast Chapter – CNPS
October 6, 2014

2. California natives: so much to attract us
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3. Hopi dyes: cotton &
basketry fibers
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http://www.adobegallery.com/art/hopi-third-mesa-wicker-groom-s-plaque

4. Navajo dyes: wool
© Project SOUND
http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/14211892_navajo-traditional-natural-dye-rug
http://www.navajoministries.org/news/NavajoDyeChart.htm
http://navajorug.com/blasts-from-my-past/

5. California Natural Dyes – the ‘lost’ traditions
are being ‘rediscovered’
 Historical documents (a few)
 Some traditions handed down –
now being shared
 Looking to other groups –
California & Baja CA
 Trying to duplicate artifacts
 Creating sources of dye stuffs
© Project SOUND
http://deborahsmall.wordpress.com/2009/11/22/gat
hering-deergrass/
http://blog.sfgate.com/inmarin/2009/10/01/last-opportunity-to-take-native-
american-skills-class/

6. Another source of inspiration….
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7. © Project SOUND
How do you get those colors?

8. The dyeing process: 4 main steps
1. Prepare the material to be
colored
2. Prepare the dye-bath
3. Dye the material
4. Complete the after-dye
processing
© Project SOUND

9. Preparing the fiber/yarn: steps that help
the fiber take up the dye
 Cleaning/ removing substances that
prevent dyeing (grease; waxes; etc.)
 Washing
 Stripping : heat, specific
chemicals/substances, light exposure,
other
 Other physical preparations
 Making the material more receptive to
the dye, if needed
 Wetting the material just prior to
dyeing
© Project SOUND
http://joyofhandspinning.com/how-to-
prepare-fiber-with-a-drum-carder/
http://stoneflake.net/explore/primitive-living/how-to/preparing-
yucca-fiber-from-dried-leaves/

10. What are mordants?  Substances that improve uptake
and/or retention of dye particles
 From the French mordre, ‘to
bite’. In the past, it was thought
that a mordant helped the dye
bite onto the fiber so that it
would hold fast during washing.
 Been used thousands of years
 Two types:
 Chemical mordants; metallic salts
[alum; tin; iron, copper;
chromium]
 Plant mordants [tannins]
 Not all dye/fiber combinations
require a mordant
© Project SOUND
http://www.chemical-engineering.co/2012/03/22/mordant/
Lemonadeberry leaves

11. Preparing the dye bath  Collect the dye stuff
 Correct plant part
 Time of year – often
important
 Prepare the dye stuff
 Chopping
 Drying
 Treating
 Extract the dye
© Project SOUND
http://sewserena.wordpress.com/2012/09/17/dyeing-yarn-and-fabric-with-rabbit-brush/

12. Let’s look at some of my favorite dye sources
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Rabbitbush – Ericameria nauseosa

13. Rabbitbush: a natural dyer’s delight
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 Abundant
 Easy to collect, use; can be stored
 Good, durable dye
 Lovely carotinoid pigment colors
(yellows/gold/greens)
 Nicely scented; non-toxic

14. Yellow-flowered Asteraceae: good starting dyes
 Common in gardens
 Need annual pruning
 Can use both flowers, foliage
 Easy to collect, use; can be stored
 Good, durable dye
 Lovely carotinoid pigment colors
(yellows/gold/greens)
 Nicely scented ; non-toxic
© Project SOUND
California goldenrod
the Goldenbushes
Ericameria species

15. Parts of plants used for dyes
 Flowers/flower buds
 Seedpods
 Seeds
 Leaves
 Stems
 Roots
 Bark
 Root bark
© Project SOUND

16. Leaves can produce extraordinary colors
Island ironwood - Lyonothamnus
floribundus
 bark a traditional source of black dye
 ?? Can a dye be obtained from the
fallen leaves
 Challenge: leaves are tough & leathery
© Project SOUND

17. Why must dyes be ‘extracted’?
 Location in plants
 Roots
 Bark
 Wood
 Other interior tissues
 Location in the cells
 Vacuole – water-soluble
pigments
 Chromoplasts
 Cell wall
 Other
 Have to do something to
destroy well walls to
release the pigment
© Project SOUND

18. Ways to create bright dyes (wool yarn)
1. Use a 10:1 ratio of dyestuff to
wool (by weight)
2. Crush/cut dry thick, leathery
leaves
3. Begin extraction with heat
(20-30 minutes)
4. Let dye bath rest at least 2-3
days
5. Use multiple extractions to
get multiple pigments
6. To dye, use 20-30 min heat +
2-4 days soak (or solar dyeing
for longer)
© Project SOUND

19. Lyonothamnus leaves produce lovely
rusts and oranges
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20. Taking advantage:
trimmings, etc.
© Project SOUND
Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa)
 Colorful inner bark
 1-2” branches have thin outer bark
 Needs time (year?) to separate bark
easily

21. Stem and root bark pigments
Complex mix of ‘protective’ pigments:
 Flavonoids – yellows
 Anthocyanins – red/red-brown
 Tannin – tan/brown (natural
mordant)
 Others
© Project SOUND
 Pines
 Junipers
 Willows/Poplars (Salix/Populus)
 Cherries (Prunus)
 Apples & pears

22. Releasing pigments from tough sources
 Dry the bark
 Cut, pound or pulverize it
 Let it soak in water for a few
days to several weeks
 Boil it for several hours
 Let the dye bath sit for days
to weeks – stirred or not
 Strain out the plant material
and use
 Apply heat
 Hot/boiling water
 Steam
 Microwave
 Apply force
 Pound/grind
 Let microorganisms do the
work – fermentation
 Or a combination of the
above
© Project SOUND
Tradition recipe for preparing
dye from a tree bark

23. Dye extraction requires patience
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24. Extra time = better, more even color
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25. Time to wash, rinse
& dry
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26. “I don’t knit; what can I do with dyed yarn?”
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27. To learn more, come to our artist’s receptions
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28. Don’t you wish you had more/brighter
colors?
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29. The natural dye colors are truly ‘California
Colors’
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30. Why tradition/natural dye traditions are
important
 They provide sources of eco-friendly
dyes for:
 Fabrics, leather, wood, etc.
 Foods
 Medicines and cosmetics
 They provide important models for
medicine & engineering
 They help us understand plants
better; focus our attention on both
botany and uses of plants
 They are part of our human
heritage
 They inspire modern artists &
craftspeople
© Project SOUND
http://www.sbnature.org/research/anthro/chumash/daily.htm#Baskets
Chumash baskets
http://www.navajoministries.org/news/NavajoDyeChart.htm