5. Lefkaritiko
Origins in white embroidery - asproploumia
– In all regions of Cyprus
– White embroidery on thick cotton fabrics
– Later on imported finer cotton
– With cotton thread
– Simple, geometric designs
– Cut and drawn threads
– Various hem stitches
6.
7. Lefkaritiko
• Development of the white embroidery
technique
• Influence of Venetian lace work techniques
Characteristics
- cut threads
- lace motifs worked separately
- satin stitch motifs
8.
9. Designs
• Main design – potamos (= river)
• Produced by cutting and removing threads
• Repetitive, triangular, zig-zag pattern
• Filled with satin stitch motifs and cut work
designs
• Combined with decorative hem stitch
15. Phitiotiko weaving
• Area of Paphos
• Strong colours
• Geometrical designs
• Floral designs & human figures in abstract
form
16.
17.
18.
19. Other areas - weaving
• Mesaoria – Lefkonoiko
– Cotton textiles
– Striped or checked
– Bright colors
• Karpassia peninsula
– Bright colors/ red or black
– Fine silk for underwear
23. Other areas - weaving
• Keryneia area - Lapithos & Karavas
– Fine silks
– Cotton textiles
– Fine silks
– Cotton textiles
• Morphou area
– Linen for embroidery
– Sheets and underwear in linen and cotton
Before we consider traditional cypriot textile handicraft let’s have a look at the island and the political situation. Cyprus has gained its independence from British rule in 1960 and became the Republic of Cyprus. Characteristic for this state was the existence of 2 folk groups – Greek/Cypriots and Turkish/Cypriots in an analogy of approx. 3/1, further there are some other minorities such as the Armenians. At the time of the foundation of the Republic the population was mostly mixed and the economy was agricultural. After the declaration of independence and the foundation of the Republic of Cyprus followed a period of instability with paramilitary groups on both sides **. The result of this period of instability was the **(πραξικοπημα) of 1974 with the help of the Greek Junta and following the invasion of the northern part of the island by Turkish troups. Since 1974 the island is divided in 2 parts. The southern part the remains of the Republic of Cyprus with a mostly Greek Cypriot population to which many refugees from the North were added in 1974 and the Northern part under Turkish military occupation which is the so called Republic of Northern Cyprus recognized only by Turkey populated by Turkish Cypriots and Turkish illegal epoikous. Between the 2 parts is the greek zone supervised by the UN troops and there are also 2 bis UK bases in Dekeleia and Akrotiri. Cyprus has been a member of the EU since 2004 and there are constant talks between the 2 communities to find a solution to the problem of Cyprus.The invasion of 1974 with the preceding political instability have influenced not only the political and economical but also the cultural life of the island. In connection to textile handicraft which is the subject of this course it is important to bear in mind:Many regions in which textiles were produced traditionally were situated in the northern part of Cyprus – after the invasion only part of the population remained with the result that traditions belonging to the Greek community such as the weaving in Karpasia and Lefkonoiko, the silk production of Keryneia do not exist any moreThe mainly rural population of the north which fled after the invasion was situated in cities (mainly Nicosia and Larnaca) which resulted in a change of living and the loss of traditions and knowledge Further the fruitful exchange between the 2 communities in matters of culture stopped since the green zone was impassable for the Cypriots of both communities until **These issues and some more are important for the way traditional culture in all aspects has been developed in CyprusHaving this data in the back of our mind let’s have a look at traditional textile handicraft in Cyprus
The centres of traditional textile handicraft until the 60ies were North - the area of Keryneia – silk production/ weaving/ production of fabrics and threads –Karpasia - Mesaoria and MorfouIn the south – Lefkara and Pafos
Lefkara lace is probably the most known handicraft produced in Cyprus – it is produced until today in the village LefkaraLefkaritiko has its origins ins the regional white embroidery asproploumia which was worked in all regions of Cyprus – asproploumia were first worked on thick cotton fabric produced in Cyprus and later on finer imported cotton fabrics Asproploumia are not produced any more today
Lefkaritiko was developed from asproploumia in the 15th century using linen fabric instead of cotton and developing the designs also under the influence of Venetian lace work techniques
The main design of the lefkaritiko is the potamos (river)
Lefkaritiko reached its peak in the early 20th century – merchants from LefkaraIn the turn of the previous century until the 30ies men from Lefkara known as kentitarides (kentima = embroidery) travelled around Europe selling lefkaritiko embroidery which became known in Europe
Today the tradition of Lefkara embroidery continues mainly in the village of Lefkara but not only where one can see women at work with their special pillows on which the fabric ist stretched.
The centres of traditional textile handicraft until the 60ies were North - the area of Keryneia – silk production/ weaving/ production of fabrics and threads –Karpasia - Mesaoria and MorfouIn the south – Lefkara and Pafos
Phitiotiko of fithkiotiko as it is called in Cyprus is a typical weaving of the Pafos area and has it’s name from the village Phiti. Characteristic for phitiotiko which is woven ** cotton??? Are the strong primary colors – red, green yellow and the geometrical designs – there are also some floral designs and human figures known as antropouthkia (little people) in abstract form
Lefkaritiko and phitiotiko are today the best known textiles produced in Cyprus but if we go a little back in history – before the invasion and the occupation of the northern part of the island in 1974 we’ll find a big variety of textiles produced all over the island and especially in the northern part. 2 areas with big production of woven textiles are the mesaoria area with its textile centre Lefkoniko
The centres of traditional textile handicraft until the 60ies were North - the area of Keryneia – silk production/ weaving/ production of fabrics and threads –Karpasia - Mesaoria and MorfouIn the south – Lefkara and Pafos
Apart from lefkaritiko which is typical for the area of lefkara although it was practiced in other areas of Cyprus as well we have other types of embroidery – multicolored embroidery / towels and the traditional costume Red cross stitch embroidery – with red silk thread on linen – areas????Tsevredes – which was more an urban type of embroidery - stitch ?? Silk thread on ???
