Primeasia university Project

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Firstwe express our gratefulness to almighty to Allah for his divine blessing makes
as possible to complete this projectsuccessfully.
We would like to express our heartiest gratitude to Professor M.A.Khaleq , Head
of the Department of the Textile Engineering Primeasia University.
Every Projectin any field needs proper guidance of expert and knowledgeable
person, wefeel immense pleasure in expressing wholehearted thanks towards
my project.guideAssociateProf. DR. M. A Sayeed , Head of the Garments Section
for his outstanding guidance , enthusiastic suggestions immensely valuable
encouragement throughoutthe courseof the study ,withoutthe pillars of his
supportand co-operation , wecould not have ever taken a single step towards
completion of this project.
We would like to thank Prof. Dr . ABM Abdullah sir for his valuable information
about the project. Without his information we could not complete the project.
We would like to thanks all the lab instructor TTQCLab & Wet Process Lab.
Finally, wemust acknowledgewith due respect the constant supportand patients
of our parents.

ACCEPTANCE
This projectreport of TXE-422 ( Project-2), “VariableTest Study on Cotton Knit
Fabric” prepareby using the relevant documents related to the assigned topic
written by us, Batch 41th student of 11th
semester in Textile Engineering
Department, Primeasia University, has been acknowledgementas it is accepted.
……………………………………………………
(Supervisor)
Dr.M.A. Sayeed
AssociateProfessor
Dept. of Textile Engineering
Primeasia University
Date 10.09.2018

CONTENT
NO. NAME PAGE NO.
Chapter 1
1. INTRODUCTION
1.1.Definitions
1.1.1. Cotton
1.1.2. Knitting
1.1.3. Bursting strength
1.1.4. G.S.M
1.1.5. Fabric density
1.1.5. Fabric density
1.1.6. Softening
1.1.7. Porosity
1.2.1. History of Cotton
1.2.2. History of Knitting
1.3. Methodology
1.4. Objective
6-10

Chapter 3
3. Data Collection
3.1. In Grey Fabric
3.1.1. Bursting Strength
3.1.2. G.S.M.
3.1.3. Density
3.1.4. Porosity
3.1.5 Softness
3.2. After Scouring & Bleaching
3.2.2. G.S.M.
3.2.3. Density
3.2.4. Porosity
3.2.5 Softness
19 - 28
Chapter 2
2. LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Physical Properties of Cotton Fibre
2.2 Chemical Properties of Cotton Fibre
2.3 Fiber Structure and formation
2.4 Raw Cotton Component
2.5Flow chart of Cotton Spinning
2.6Optical Properties of Cotton Fiber
2.7 Thermal Properties of Cotton Fiber
2.8 Reactive Dye
2.8.1 Why Reasons for so named
2.8.2General Structure of Reactive Dye
2.8.3 Classification of Reactive Dye
10 - 19

3.3. After Dyeing
3.3.2. G.S.M.
3.3.3. Density
3.3.4 Porosity
3.3.5 Softness
Chapter 4
4.Result & Data Variation
4.1. Bursting Strength
4.2. G.S.M.
4.3. Density
4.4 Porosity
4.5 Softness
28 - 31
Chapter 5
5.Recommandation 31
Chapter 6
6.Conclusion
31
Chapter 7
7.Bibliography 32
Chapter 8
8.Referance
32
Chapter 9
9.Capture Moment During
Project Preparation 33

1.Introduction
1.1 Definitions
1.1.1 Cotton:
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around
the seeds of cottonplants of the genus gossypium in the family of Malvaceae. The
fiber is almost pure cellulose. Under natural conditions, the cottonboils will tend
to increase the dispersal of the seeds. Cotton is a plant that produces fibers ,which
are used to make clothes and other products, like towels , carpets or sheets.
1.1.2 Knitting:
Knitting is a process offabric forming by the intermeshing the loops of yarn. When
one loop is drawn through another loops are formed in horizontal or vertical
direction.
1.1.3 Bursting strength:
Bursting strength test is a alternative method of measuring strength in which the
material is stressed in all direction at the same time and is therefore more suitable
for such material.
1.1.4 G.S.M:
G.S.Mmeans the weight of fabric in grams per square meter area.

1.1.5 Fabric density:
Fabric density is another measurement indicating how much fiber is in a meter
square, thereby allowing us to determine how strong and thick a fabric is.
1.1.6 Softening:
Taking the fabric between the thumb and finger and measure the softness
of the fabric.
1.1.7 Porosity:
Porosity or void fraction is a measureof the void spaces in a material, and is a
fraction of the volume of voids over the total volume.
1.2.History
1.2.1 .Historyof Cotton:
Cotton was used in the Old World at least 7,000 years ago (5th millennium BC).
Evidence of cotton use has been found at the site of Mehrgarh where early cotton
threads have been preserved in copperbeads.Cottoncultivation became more
widespread during the Indus Vailey Civilization which covered parts of modern
eastern Pakistan and northwestern India. The Indus cottonindustry was well-
developed and some methods used in cotton spinning and fabrication continued to
be used until the industrialization of India. Between 2000 and 1000 BC cotton
became widespread across much of India. Forexample, it has been found at the
site of Hallus in Karnataka dating from around 1000 BC. Cottonfabrics discovered

in a cave near Tehuacan, Mexico have been dated to around 5800 BC, although it
is difficult to know for certain due to fiber decay. Other sources date the
domestication of cottonin Mexico to approximately 5000 to 3000 BC .The Greeks
and the Arabs were not familiar with cottonuntil the wars of Alexander the Great,
as his contemporary Megasthenes told Seleucus 1 Nicator of "there being trces on
which wool grows" in Indica". This might actually be a reference to "tree cotton'',
Gossypiumarboreurn which is a native of the Indian subcontinent.
1.2.2History of Knitting:
The earliest known knitted items in Europe were made by Muslim knitters
employed by Spanish Christian royal families. Their high level of knitting
skill can be seenin several items found in the tombs in the Abbeyof Santa

María la Real de Las Huelgas, a royal monastery, near Burgos,Spain.
Among them are the knitted cushion covers and gloves found in the tomb
of Prince Fernando de la Cerda, who died in 1275.The silk cushion cover
was knit at approximately 20 stitches per inch. It included knit patterns
reflecting the family armory, as well as the Arabic word baraka ("blessings")
in stylized Kufic script. Numerous other knit garments and accessories,
also dating from the mid-13th century, have been found in cathedral
treasuries in Spain.
There also is a Votic knit fragment dated to late 13th century excavated in
Estonia.[9]
This fragment is knit in a stranded pattern in three colors and
was likely part of a mitten cuff.
Several paintings from Europe portray the Virgin Mary knitting and date
from the 14th century, including Our Lady Knittingby Tommaso da
Modena (circa 1325-1375)and Visitof the Angel,from the right wing of the
Buxtehude Altar, 1400–10,by Master Bertram of Minden.
Archaeologicalfinds from medieval cities all over Europe, such
as London, Newcastle, Oslo, Amsterdam,and Lübeck, as well as tax lists,
prove the spread of knitted goods foreveryday use from the 14th century
onward. Like many archaeological textiles, most of the finds are only
fragments of knitted items so that in most cases their formerappearance
and use is unknown. One of the exceptions is a 14th or 15th century
woollen child's cap from Lübeck.
Although the purl stitch was used in some of the earliest knitted items in
Egypt, its knowledge may have beenlost in Europe. The first European purl
stitches appear in the mid-16th century, in the red silk stockings in
which Eleanora de Toledo,wife of Cosimo de Medici, was buried, and
which also include the first lacy patterns made by yarn-overs,[15][16]
but the
technique may have been developedslightly earlier. The English
Queen Elizabeth I herself favored silk stockings;[17]
these were finer, softer,
more decorative and much more expensive than those of wool. Stockings
reputed to have belonged to her still exist, demonstrating the high quality of
the items specificallyknitted for her. During this era the manufacture of
stockings was of vast importance to many Britons, who knitted with fine
wool and exported their wares. Knitting schools were established as a way
of providing an income to the poor. The fashion of the period, requiring men
to wear short trunks, made fitted stockings a fashion necessity.Stockings
made in England were sent to the Netherlands, Spain, and Germany.

Many elaborate designs were developed,such as the cable stitch used
on Aran sweaters, which was developedin the early 20th century in
Ireland.
1.3Methodology
We use two method to complete the project and they are as follows:-
01.Chemical method.
02.Mechanical method.
1.4 Objective
* To find out the variation of different tests of cottonknit fabric
2 LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Physical Properties of Cotton Fiber
Cotton Fibre has some physical characteristics which are pointed out in the below:
1. Length: 0.5ʺ - 2.5”

2. Strength, tenacity (gm per denier): 3 – 5
3. Dimensional stability: medium
4. Heat preventive power: medium
5. Moisture regain: 7-10% (standard 8.5%)
6. Stiffness: 57-60 g/d due to high crystallinity
7. Elasticity: 1.50- 1.58
8. Resiliency: low
9. Abrasion resistance: medium
10. Density (gm/cc): less than both silk and wool but more than linen.
11. Color: cream or yellowish like clean white.
2.2 Chemical Properties of Cotton Fibre
The main chemical characteristics of cotton fiber have presented in the following
1. Action with alkali:
Here, preventive power is good. Alkali does not damage cotton fibre.
2. Action with acid:
Strong acid damage the fibres. Concentrated sulphuric acid and hydrochloric acid
damage the fibre. But weak acid does not damage the fibre.
3. Action with bleaching:
No damaging event is occurred here. Cotton is converted into oxi-cellulose in
strong oxidizing bleaching.
4. Action with organic solvent:

Resistance so dry is possible here.
5. Sunlight preventive power:
Ultraviolet ray converts the cotton into oxi-cellulose.
6. Mildew preventive power:
Untreated not easy. There is possibility to be affected.
7. Dye ability:
Affinity to color is good. Direct, reactive, sulphur and vat dye are used.
8. Insects preventive power
Not affected by moth.
9. Heat:
Conductive ironing temperature is 150°C where decompose is 240°C and ignition
temperature is 390°C.
2.3 Fiber Structure and formation
The botanical name of American Upland cotton is GossypiumHirsutum and has been developed
from cottons of Central America. Upland varieties represent approximately 97% of U.S.
production

Fig: cotton fibers structure
Each cotton fiber is composed of concentric layers. The cuticle layer on the Fiber itself is
separable from the fiber and consists of wax and pectin materials. The primary wall, the most
peripheral Layer of the fiber, is composed cellulosic crystalline fibrils. The secondary wall of the
fiber consists of three distinct Layers. All three layers of the secondary wall include closely
packed parallel fibrils with spiral winding or 25-35' and represent the majority of cellulosewithin
ate fiber. The innermost part of cotton fiber- the lumen- is composed of the remains of the cell
contents. Before boll opening, the lumen is tilled with liquid containing, the cell nucleus and
protoplasm. The twists and convolutions of the dried fiber arc due to the removal of this liquid.
The cross section of the fiber is bean-shaped. Swelling almost round when moisture absorption
takes place.
The overall contents are broken down into the following components.
2.4 Raw Cotton Component

The chemical composition of cotton is as follows:
Component
Amount (dry
basis)% Main location Primary wall (%)
Cellulose 94 Secondary wall 48
Protein 1.3 Lumen 12
Pectin substance 0.9 Primary wall 12
Oil, fat & wax 0.6 Cuticle 7
Ash 1.2 3
Malic, citric and
other organic acids 0.8 Lumen 14
Total sugar 0.3 Primary wall
Pigment Trace
Others 0.9
2.5 Flow chart of Cotton Spinning

2.6 Optical Properties of Cotton Fiber
Cotton fibers show double refraction when observed in polarized light. Even though various
effects can he observed, second order yellow and second order blue is characteristic colors of
cellulosic fibers. A typical birefringence value as shown in the table of physical properties is
0.047.Optical Properties of Cotton Fiber
2.7 Thermal Properties of Cotton Fiber
Cotton fibers conduct heat energy, minimizing any destructive heat accumulation. As a result
they can withstand hot ironing temperatures. Excessive application of heat energy results in the
cotton fiber to burn, without any prior melting, thus cotton is not thermoplastic. It is due to the
extremely long polymer of cotton and the countless hydrogen bonds it consists. These prevent
the polymers from assuming new positions when heat is applied, as would be the case with the
shorter polymers of thermoplastic fibers. On application of high kinetic energy, polymers of
cotton fiber will begin to vibrate or become so excited and disintegrate, which results in violent
chemical reactions observed as fiber combustion.
2.8 Reactive Dye
Reactive dyes have inherent substantivity for cotton and for other cellulosic fibers. Their aqueous
solutions can dye cotton usually in the presence of an electrolyte such as NaCl or Na2SO4. As
their name implies, the dyeing procedure of reactive dye is quite simple because it can be applied
directly on the fiber without any assistance.
2.8.1 Why Reasons for so named
Reactive dyes are so called because this is the only type of dye, which has reactive group, and

that reactive group reacts chemically with fibre polymer molecules and form covalent bond. This
covalent bond is formed between the reactive group and terminal –OH (Hydroxyl) group of
polyamide and wool fibre or between reactive group and terminal -NH2 (Amino) group of
cellulosic fibre polymer. The strength of this covalent bond is more than ionic bond, hydrogen
bond and Vander Waal’s force of attraction. Thus the reactive group becomes an integral part of
the fibre.
For this reasons the dyes are so called. They are also called ‘fibre reactive group’.
The general structure of reactive dye is: D-B-G-X.
2.8.2 General Structure of Reactive Dye
Here,
D = Dye part or chromogen (color producing part)
Dyes may be reactive, direct, acid, disperse etc dye.
B = Bridging part.
Bridging part may be –NH- group or –NR- group.
G = Reactive group bearing part.
X = Reactive group.
Chemical structure of reactive dyes
2.8.3 Classification of Reactive Dye

Reactive dyes may be classified in various ways as below:
1) On the basis of reactive group:
a) Halogen (commonly chlorine) derivatives of nitrogen containing
heterocycle, like 3 types-
 Triazine group
 Pyridimine group
 Quinoxaline dyes
Example:
Triazine derivatives: procion, cibacron.
Pyridimine derivatives: reacton
Quinoxaline derivatives: levafix.
b) Activated vinyl compound:
 Vinyl sulphone
 Vinyl acrylamide
 Vinyl sulphonamide.
Example:
 Vinyl sulphone: remazol
 Vinyl acrylamide: primazine
 Vinyl sulphonamide: levafix.
2) On the basis of reactivity:
a) Lower reactive dye: Reactivity of these dye is low.Here pH is maintained 12-
12.5 by using NaOH in dye bath.
b) Medium reactive dye: These are medium reactive dye. Here pH is maintained
11-12 by using Na2CO3 in dye bath.
c) Higher reactive dye: These dyes are highly reactive. Here pH is maintained 10-
11 by using NaHCO3 in dye bath.

3) On the basis of dyeing temperature:
a) Cold brand:
These types of dyes contain reactive group of high reactivity. So dyeing can be
done in lower temperature i.e. 32-60 C.
For example: PROCION M, LIVAFIX E.
b) Medium brand:
This type of dyes contains reactive groups of moderate reactivity. So dyeing is
done in higher temperature than that of cold brand dyes i.e. in between 60-71C
temperatures.
For example, Remazol, Livafix are medium brand dyes.
c) Hot brand:
This type of dye contains reactive groups of least reactivity. So high temperature is
required for dyeing i.e. 720-930 C temperature is required for dyeing.
For example PRICION H, CIBACRON are hot brand dyes.
3. Data Collection
Fabric name: Single jersey knitted fabric.
Fiber used : Carded cotton.
3.1. In Grey Fabric
Bursting strength for sample -1 =8.2 kg/cm^2

Bursting strength for sample -2=8.3 kg/cm^2
Average =8.2+8.3+8.3 / 3
=8.26 kg/cm^2
Bursting Strength =8.26 kg/cm^2
3.1.2. G.S.M
G.S.Mfor sample -1 = 163
Average G.S.M. = 163
G.S.M. = 163
3.1.3. Density
Weight for sample -01 = 0.1046 gm

Average sample = (0.1046+0.1029+0.1055)gm / 3
= 0.1043 gm/
Density = 0.1043 gm
Sample length =1 inch
Density =Sample weight / Sample length = 0.1043 / 1
=0.1043 gm/inch
3.1.4. Porosity
Wales for sample -01 = 29
Average wales = 29+29+29 / 3
= 29
No of wales per inch = 29
Course for sample-01 = 63
Course for sample- 02= 63

Average Course=63+63+63 / 3
=63
No of courseper inch = 63
Porosity =No of courseper inch / No of wales per inch
=63 / 29
= 2.172
3.1.5 Softness
For sample -01 = Soft hand feel
Softess = Soft
3.2. After Scouring and Bleaching

Average =8.1+8.2+8.0 / 3
=8.1 kg/cm^2
3.2.2. G.S.M.
G.S.Mfor sample -1 =163
Average G,S.M. = 163
G.S.M.=162.5
3.2.3. Density
Average sample = (0.1034+0.10132+0.1041)gm / 3
= 0.1029 gm/

Density = 0.1029 gm
Density =Sample weight / Sample length
= 0.1029 gm / 1 icn
=0.1029 gm/inch
3.2.4. Porosity
= 30

=60
No of courseper inch = 60
porosity =No of course per inch / No of wales per inch
=60 / 30
= 2
3.2.5. Softness
For sample -01 = Lightly harsh hand feel
Softness = Lightly harsh
3.3After dyeing

Average =7.8+7.6+7.7 / 3
=7.6 kg/cm^2
3.3.2. G.S.M.
Average G,S.M. = 173
G.S.M.=173
3.3.3. Density
Average sample = (0.1091+0.10182+0.1091) gm / 3
= 0.1087 gm/
Density = 0.1087 gm

Density = Sample weight / Sample length
= 0.1087 gm / 1 inch
=0.1087 gm/inch
3.3.4. Porosity
= 38
=56

No of course per inch = 56
Porosity =No of courseper inch / No of wales per inch
=56 / 38
= 1.474
3.3.5. Softness
For sample -01 = Smoothhand feel
For sample -02 = Smooth hand feel
For sample -03 = Smooth hand feel
Softness = Smooth

4. Result & Data Variation
4.1. Bursting Strength
4.2. G.S.M.
7.2
7.4
7.6
7.8
8
8.2
8.4
In Gray Fabric After Scouring & Bleaching After Dyeing
Bursting Strength
156
158
160
162
164
166
168
170
172
174
In Grey Fabric After Scouring & Bleaching Ater Dyeing
Series 1

4.3. Density
4.4 Porosity
0.1
0.101
0.102
0.103
0.104
0.105
0.106
0.107
0.108
0.109
0.11
Density
Density
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
Porosity
Porosity

4.5. Softness
In Grey Fabric After Scouring &
Bleaching
After Dyeing
Soft hand Feel Harsh hand feel Smooth hand feel
5. Recommendation
* This project will be helpful for those students who want to do research in same
topic in future.
* This project will be helpful for Dyeing and Fabric Dept. of the factory.
* This project will be helpful for those factory who want to make Garments from
cottonfabric.
6. Conclusion
To do project in new for us ,but finally we have completed our project successfully
by the grace of Allah.
In this project we tried to show the nature of fabric in different condition. From
this project all garment factory will be beneficiary.

7. Bibliography
*We have take few information from
Wikipedia and Google
www.wikipedia.com/ history of cotton
www.google.com/reactive dye
* TTQC Lab and Wet process Lab.
8.Referance
Lab Name Mobile No.
TTQC Md. Abdul Haque 01911113997
Wet Process Md. Julhas Uddin 01729771246

9.Capture Moment During Project
Preparation

Primeasia university Project

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