Adventure Equpment

© 2015, Wilderness Academy, LLC
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 Welcome!
 Instructor and Student Introductions.
 What is The Wilderness Academy?
 What we do and what we don’t do.
 How to address questions.

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RISK ASSESSMENT
HAZARD PLAN OF ACTION
Fire(s) Exits, Emergency Plan, Assembly and Accountability Plan
Electrical Hazards Electrical Shut Off, Emergency Plan
Falling Asleep Please Stand Up!
Inclement Weather Shelter Locations
Other Please Follow Directions

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TASK LEARNING OBJECTIVE
“The Big 5”
Learn basic knowledge
about the five most
important pieces of
adventure equipment –
purposes, selection, usage,
and care for tents,
backpacks, footwear,
sleeping bags and sleeping
pads.
TERMINAL LEARNING OBJECTIVES

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What is Astronomy?
“Backpacking – an extended
form of hiking in which
people carry double the
amount of gear they need for
half the distance they
planned to go in twice the
time it should take.”
– Author Unknown
“So many people think they
need to have serious
equipment. In the
magazines and the media,
they see all this stylish stuff,
especially on TV, and they
think, That’s what I need to
make it work. You don’t.”
- Sally Schnieder

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The Big Five Defined
1. Footwear – footwear designed specifically for protecting the feet and ankles during
outdoor walking activities such as hiking. Their quality and durability can determine the
hiker’s ability to walk long distances without injury.
2. Rucksack – In it’s simplest form, a cloth sack carried on one’s back and secured with
two straps that go over the shoulders.
3. Tent – A shelter consisting of sheets of fabric of other material draped over , attached
to a frame of poles of attached to a supporting rope.
4. Sleeping Bag – An insulated covering for a person, essentially a lightweight quilt that
can be closed with a zipper or similar means to form a tube, which functions as
beeding in situations when a person is sleeping outdoors.
5. Sleeping Pad – A simple device often used in conjunction with a sleeping bag, to
provide padding and thermal insulation.

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Footwear
 “No Hoof, No Horse”
 Footwear is the direct interface between yourself and
the ground.
 Older boots were constructed using a “Norwegian welt”,
where the upper was stitched to the lower. Modern
boots can be glued using adhesives.
 Older boots had steel shanks – all sizes had the same
amount of flexibility. New shanks are made of nylon.
 Boots come in a multitude of sizes, types, materials,
soles, weights, etc. Choose by application.
 Boots are an investment!

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Footwear Types
 It’s estimated that every 1 lb of boot weight is
the equivalent of adding 5 lbs of weight on your
back.
 Go with the lightest boot that meets your needs!
 Camp shoes are great to bring along for usage
when hiking is done.
 They’re much more comfortable
 They reduce impact on the campsite (LNT!)
 Gaiters are an add-on; they provide a little bit of
protection and help keep your boots dry.

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Boot Types
 Off Trails Boots – Lighter and flexible, offer above the ankle
support, leather uppers, aggressive soles, and are easier to
break in. Do not last as long.
 Light Hikers – Lighter than off trail boots; stronger than tennis
shoes. Should be comfortable right out of the box. Not good for
extended trips.
 Rough Trail – Great ankle support, made of durable materials,
usually offer a degree of water protection, best for usage when
carrying loads in excess of 40% of body weight. Can be re-
soled.
 Double Boots – Primarily used for mountaineering. Built with
an insulated inner boot and a plastic outer boot. The plastic
shell allows for attachment of add-ons, like crampons. Much
less comfortable than any other boot.

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Fitting Boots
 Fitting boots is essential – poorly fitted boots will leave your feet covered in blisters and sores;
blisters can lead to infection.
 Boots area created by using “lasts”. Different manufacturers use different lasts.
 Try your boots on in the afternoon – your feet swell during the day. Make sure you bring the right
socks for the job.
 As we get older, our feet flatten out and get longer. Wear old boots around before a trip to ensure
they still fit properly.

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Breaking in Boots
 Before you leave, make sure the store
is ok if you need to bring back boots
that don’t fit!!
 You should put about 20 miles on your
new boots before you take them on any
kind of extended trip. Stiff boots equal
blisters.
 Make sure you align the tongue and
lace your boots properly – misalignment
can cause hot spots and blisters.
 Consider upgrading the insoles!

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Boot Buying Considerations
 Low Cut vs High Cut
 Waterproof vs Non Waterproof
 Synthetic vs Leather
 Full Grain Leather vs Split Grain Leather
 Plastic/Fabric Lacing Hardware vs Metal Lacing
Hardware
 Synthetic Liners vs Leather Liners
 Soft, Sticky Soles vs. Hard Soles
 Shallow Lugs vs Deep Lugs

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The Backpack
 First made of wooden frames that didn’t correspond
with the human body; these packs did the job, but
were painful to use!
 The last 50 years have seen fantastic developments
in pack design and construction.
 No pack with ever be totally comfortable.
 There are two basic types of frames – external and
internal. They both do the same job – distributing
weight from your shoulders to your hips, so your
(much stronger) legs can carry the weight.

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Internal and External Frames

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External Frame Backpacks
 External frame backpacks allowed users to carry
much more weight, safely.
 Usually constructed in a ladder-frame fashion from
metal or plastics. The bag and other attachments (ie.
hip belt) are attached through clevis pins and split
rings.
 Pack volumes typically range between 3,000 and
4,500 cubic inches. **
 Make sure you get the pack that fits your spine!
 Features to look for – good lumbar padding, a conical
hip belt, recurved shoulder pads, and a chest
compression strap.
Pros: Good for carrying lots of weight; the
space between the frame and a user’s back
allow for air circulation (less sweating);
weight is carried higher, allowing for a more
upright posture; carrying capabilities of the
pack are much more versatile; less
expensive than internal frame rucks; won’t
sag under heavy loads; frame can be used
to make a little to evacuate an injured party.
Cons: They make a user top heavy and a
little less stable, because they carry the load
higher; external frame backpacks don’t hug
your body as well, and the pack tends to
have a lot of lateral movement while the
user walks – this is more of a problem with
trips that involve activities like skiing or
snowshoeing; airlines are notorious for
being frames – be careful and protect your
bag when flying

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Internal Frame Backpacks
 Internal frame backpacks have the majority of the
market share in modern adventuring.
 They make carrying loads a little less awkward, since
the load is closer to the body.
 External frames make use of a wide variety of
materials – aluminum, plastic, foam, carbon fiber, and
other materials in order to create a rigid spine that the
hip belt is attached to.
 Pack volumes typically range from 3,000 to 7,500
cubic inches, sometimes with several compartments
the pack.
 Removable top pockets and bivy extensions help to
increase load carrying capacity.
Pros: Good for carrying lots of weight;
conforms to the body for better balance;
more comfortable to wear for longer
periods of time; sleek profile makes is
easier to move through brush, crawl
through boulder fields, etc.
Cons: The backpack is directly against
the user’s back, which caused increased
perspiration. Since the load is carried
lower, you may have to bend over more
to stretch your back; the carrying
capacity of the pack is somewhat fixed by
the internal volume; tend to be more
expensive than external frame packs;
more difficult to pack; not useful for
making litters.

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Pack Sizing Guidlines
 There are several guidelines you should consider when pack selection – you’re likely going to have to carry all
of your equipment and food in it!
 External frame backpacks are smaller in cubic inch capacity, but allow for external attachments.
Length of Trip External Frame Pack Volume Internal Frame Pack Volume
2-4 Days 1,500 + cubic inches 3,500 + cubic inches
Longer 6000 + cubic inches 6,000 + cubic inches

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Pack Sizing Guidelines
A properly fitted pack is essential to an enjoyable outdoor
adventure.
Put on the pack and adjust the hip belt to fit your hips.
With the hip belt on and properly positioned, tighten the
shoulder straps and note the position.
The lower ends of the shoulder straps should run
approximately 5 inches below your arm pits.
The sternum strap should cross your chest below your
collar bone.
Weigh a pack down about 30 lbs to approximate trail
conditions.

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Pack Buying Considerations
 Top Loader vs. Panel Loader
 Fixed Suspension vs. Adjustable Suspension
 Fixed Lid vs Floating Lid
 Trampoline Back vs. Foam Back
 Internal Frame vs. External Frame
 Alpine Packbag vs. Trail Packbag

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Sleeping Bags
 There are a number of things to consider when buying a sleeping bag.
 A sleeping bag typically doesn’t have many ways to ventilate, which helps with
regulation of temperature.
 You might need separate bags for separate environmental conditions.

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 Sleeping bags have a temperature rating to help give you an idea of how cold
you can use the sleeping bag in and still be warm.
 Manufacturers DO NOT have a standardized temperature rating system,
although many use the European Norm 13537, or EN rating system.
 The EN rating system has three numbers – Comfort, Lower Limit, and Extreme.
Season Temperature Rating
Summer 40 to 60 degrees
Three Season 20 to 40 degrees
Winter 0 to 20 degrees
Cold Weather -30 to 0 degrees

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EN Rating Scale

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Sleeping Bag Styles
MummyRectangular Semi Rectangular

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Sleeping Bag Features
The Hood: Allows you to insulate your
head and prevent heat loss
 The Draft Tube: An insulated tube that
follows the zipper and prevents cold spots
at the zipper
 Well Designed Zippers: Allow you to
open and close the bag from the inside,
and give you some ability to ventilate.
 Fill: Synthetic and down. Further
discussion on materials and fill types is
offered in the Wilderness Skills Level One
Course.

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Sleeping Bag Fit
Sleeping Bag fit is just as important as it
is in fitting adventure clothing properly.
 If the bag is too big, there will be
convection currents that will make you
cold.
 If the bag is too tight, the fill might be
compressed (lack of air spaces/loft),
which will make you cold.
 Some people just need a little more
wiggle room!

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Sleeping Bag Additions
 Sleeping Bag Liner – Serve as inserts to put inside your bag to keep the bag
clean; can also work as covers for sleeping on top of when it’s warm and sometimes
bug netting as well!
 Vapor Barrier Liner – Add warmth to your bag by preventing evaporative heat loss.
 Bivoac (Bivy) Bag – Little more than a waterproof outer shell, but can add 10 to 15
degrees of warmth to the bag
 Overbag – A lightweight rectangular bag cut to fit over a regular sleeping bag.

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Sleeping Bag Additions!
Summer, Desert 40 degrees F Brushed or fleece lining for no-stick
comfort, minimal features, wraparound
zipper for use as a blanket
Rainforest, Wet Conditions Seasonal Synthetic Fill, Water Resistant Shell
Winter 0 degrees F Adjustable draft collar, contoured
hood, 6 inches of extra length for
storing bottles, clothes, and cold-
sensitive gear
High Mountain, Arctic -20 degrees F or lower Down fill for compression, extra length
for water bottle and gear storage, extra
girth for layering
Snow Cave, Tentless Water Resistant / Windproof shell or
bivy sack
For This Condition This Temp Rating With These Features

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Sleeping Pads
 Sleeping Pads serve two functions – comfort and
insulation.
 Pads come in two basic types – closed cell and open
cell
Some adventurers view open cell to be more
comfortable. These pads tend to be more slippery,
however, and do require that you carry a small repair kit
to patch holes.
 A 3/8” pad is good for three season camping. ½” inches
of insulation is better when conditions are cold.
 Pads are available in full or ¾ length sizes. You can
save weight and a little bit of money with a ¾ length
pad, but in winter, you’ll want a full length pad.

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Sleeping Pad Tricks
 Double up in the winter
 Ground Check
 Pack it Inside
 Easy inflating it!
 Go slow when deflating!
 Storage

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Pad Considerations
Self Inflating Open Cell foam
sandwiched between nylon
Puffs up by itself, foam adds
insulation
Heavy; must be stored flat;
sometimes requires field
repairs, can be pricy
Air Mat Nylon encased air chambers Very light and packable; most
cushion for the least weight and
bulk
Patience and strong lungs are
needed to inflate; some times
require field repairs, not for cold
weather use
Insulated Air Mat Nylon encased air
chambers with added down or
synthetic insulation
Comfortable; warm, packable Expensive
Closed Cell Foam Thin, dense
sheet of basic foam
Cheapest, toughest and lightest;
never deflates
No inflation, so is provides the
bare minimum of cushion
Type Pros Cons

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Shelter - Tents
 Even in the nicest of conditions, you’re
going to spend a lot of time in a static
location.
 Manufacturers do their best to provide
the best products to the market; rigorous
testing is routinely involved in tent design
and manufacture.
 A wide variety of tents are available - the
best tents share a few common tenets:
easy to set up, can take heavy wind
conditions, hold steady under snow, and
don’t weigh much at all.

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Basic Considerations
 Freestanding tents are preferred over non-freestanding tents.
 Single Wall Tents Vs Double Wall Tents
 Internal Floor Space and Usable Volume
 Seasonality
 Fastback tents have a tent fly that can be rigged with poles and attached
to the floor, leaving the rest of the tent alone.

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Tent Shapes
 A Frame = Offer little interior space compared to fabric used, don’t stand up to wind very
well. A poor choice, overall.
 Dome Tent = Strongest, most versatile, generally self-standing. The best choice for the
majority of adventurers.
 Hoop Tent = Similar to Dome Tents, but use less fabric and fewer poles. As such, they
don’t have the same strength.

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Tent Considerations
 Tent Sizing – take a tent rated to
hold on more person than is on
your trip!
 Tent Vestibules
 How BIG is the tent when packed?
 How much does the tent weigh?

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Tent Features
 Windows and Vents
 Tent Footprint
 Tie-Backs
 Second Entrance
 Vestibule/Porch
 Body to Pole
Attachment
 Mesh Pockets
 Gear Loft
 Flashlight Loop
 Bathtub Floor

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Tent Purchase Considerations
 Free Standing vs Non-Free Standing
 Pole Sleeves vs. Pole Clips
 One Entrance vs. Two Entrances
 All Mesh vs. All Fabric Body
 Dark Color vs. Light Color
 Double Wall vs. Single Wall
 Urethane vs. Silnylon
 Aluminum vs. Carbon Fiber Poles

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FIN
QUESTIONS?

Adventure Equpment

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