Introduction, Background, Evaluation, Proposed Solution and Recommendation

1. HANDLOOM
SYSTEM
SHREYA ACHARYA
KATHMANDU UNIVERSITY
MECHANICAL ENGINEERING (ENERGY TECH )
DATE-2020/07/27

2. INTRODUCTION
Pashmina and Palpali Dhaka are the famous handloomed products of Nepal which is widely exported across different parts of the
world
▪ Handloom(Tan in Nepali) is the device used to weave cloth and tapestry.
▪ Oldest and most conventional form of weaving cloth.
▪ The loom is usually made of poles, wooden logs and ropes.
▪ Shedding is done by peddle and picking and beating is done manually.
▪ It takes around 2–3 days for a simple 5.5meter fabric to be made.
▪ Reflects the social, religious and cultural values.
▪ In the last 27 years, Nepal has seen remarkable growth in
the export of hand loomed products. [1]
Figure 1: Pashmina Shawl
Figure 2: Palpali Dhaka
Source: http://www.estwstcollective.com/handloom/

3. Raw
Materials
Dyeing
Process
Warp
Weft
Weaving
Process
Zari
Marketing
VALUE CHAIN OF HANDLOOM WEAVING
Figure 3: Process a handloomed products go through

4. 1) Weaving is done by intersecting the longitudinal thread, the
warp with the transverse threads, the weft and heddles,
harnesses, shuttle, reed and take up roll. [2]
2) In the loom, yarn processing includes shedding, picking,
battening and taking up operations.
3) Motion of handloom:
• Shedding Motion- Shedding separates the warp yarns into
two layers for the insertion of a pick. The function of
shedding mechanism is to raise & lower the heddles.
• Picking Motion- Picking motion inserts a pick (weft) from
one side to the other side of the fabric.
• Beating Up- The function of beat up mechanism is to push
the weft thread that has been inserted across the warp threads
in a shed, up to the fell of cloth
STUDY OF TYPICAL HANDLOOM
Figure 4: Typical handloom design
Source- https://sites.google.com/site/textilebangla/weaving
Shedding Motion
Picking Motion
Beating Up

5. 1) During the time of Chandra Gupta Mouriya in forth century
there was considerable trade in blanket of wool, Nepal was
mentioned as a source of good blankets (Rari).
2) to the end of 19th century, Nepalese people were self
sufficient to meet the requirement of cloth through the
production of handloom which was flourishing and
promising cottage and small scale industry of Nepal at that
time
3) The backstrap loom, common among the Gurung is thought
to be the oldest form of loom in the world.
4) Therefore, Gurungs are also known today as extraordinary
weavers who more likely started the textile trade in Nepal.
[7]
BACKGROUND
Figure 5: Backstrap handloom used in ancient time [7]

6. EVOLUTION OF HANDLOOMS
.
Fig 5:Charkha used in the
ancient times when cotton from
the local fields were transformed
into yarn using charkha.
Fig 6:Traditional handloom refers to
wooden frames of different types
which are used by skilled artisans to
weave fabrics usually from natural
fibers like Cotton, Silk, Wool, Jute
etc. [2]
Fig 7:Multiphase loom can form many
different sheds at different places,
thereby enabling insertion of number of
filling yarns, one behind the other with
high efficiency, high speed and low
weaving cost. [2]

7. EVALUATION OF THE CASE
1. Handloom is more economical
2. Easy to operate
3. Suitable for low production type industry
4. Separate parts are available in the market
5. Ease of introducing new designs and patterns
6. Adaptability to market requirement
7. Eco-friendly quality
8. Causes more noise in the work field
9. Shuttle causes abrasion on the warp yarn which
increases wastage percentage
10. Warp break increases for the shuttle
11. Lower production rate then shuttle less loom
12. Time consuming [4]
Figure 8: Local women weaving material at a loom in Mustang
District, Nepal.
Source- https://www.picfair.com/pics/07640397-handloom

8. The most recent I had
visited any loom
industry was in
Biratnagar, Jute Mill
Industry
1. It had 200 power looms out of which 25 looms were not
recommended economically.
2. The loom was power driven with single drive system.
3. 2 motors of 25 HP were present and the looms were not in
operation
4. For the operation of single loom there required atleast 2
manpower
5. Lack of raw materials, spare parts, technicians and other
human resources are the reason the loom factory isn’t
running in a full fledged way.

9. PROPOSED SOLUTION
1. Semi- Automatic handlooms are best for the common weavers.
2. The motive power is provided by the weaver manually but it's various
motions are synchronized to obtain automatic actuations of the
selective motions.
3. It is easy to manufacture, assemble, transport and economical.
4. Uses easily available handloom accessories.
5. They are light weight, made up of tabular structure and movable parts
are enclosed for safety.
6. Automatic picking mechanism is incorporated and works in
conjunction with the beat up.
7. Possible to weave different varieties of yarn.
8. Automatic take up and let off is used for withdrawing the woven cloth
and release of warp, uniform texture is obtained. [5]
Figure 9: Semi- Automatic Handloom
Source: https://www.iitg.ac.in/design/portfolio/akd/handloom.html

10. RECOMMENDATIONS
➢ The main problem in traditional handloom is, it is very time consuming, so in order
to reduce the time the system must be modified in such a way that the two filling
(Weft) carriers can slide at a single time while moving reed once.
➢ Sometimes the extra piece of yarn or fluffy can cause entanglement or can be woven
in so such piece should be removed immediately.
➢ Magnetic Shaft integrated in the base frame can drag the bobbins attached to it
crossing all the weft threads from one side to another will reduce the time consumed
while designing a product. [6]

11. REFERENCES
[1] t. c. s. N. Ministry of Industry, "Hadicraft," 2020 Trade and export promotion centre, lalitpur.
[2] W. contibutors, "Loom," Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia, 2020.
[3] M. I. Kiron, "Weaving | Weaving Mechanism | Classification of Weaving Machines," Textile learner,
Bangladesh, 2020.
[4] M. Abdullah-Al-Masud, "Conventional loom and modern loom," SlideShare, Dhaka, 2016.
[5] P. A. Das, "Design of a Semi-Automatic Handloom for Women.," iitg.ernet.in, Mumbai.
[6] S. Kedia, "Weaving traditional handlooms is now easier, thanks to this serial innovator," Your Story, Social
Innovation, India, 2018.
[7] W. S. D. Organization, "Weaving In Nepal," Women's Skill Development Organization, Pokhara.