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Fig 1.
Future Thinking
Santa Brice
N0583850
Future Thinking . Gender-Free
santa.brice2014@my.ntu.ac.uk
Fe
ey
TABLE OF CONTENTS
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AIM
METHODOLOGY
INTRODUCTION
TREND DRIVER: GOVERNMENT SCHEMES
TREND DRIVER: PRESS AND CELEBRITIES
BRAND RESPONSE: BEAUTY
BRAND RESPONSE: CHILDREN CLOTHING
BRAND RESPONSE: TECHNOLOGY
CONSUMER RESPONSE: SOCIAL MEDIA
CONSUMER RESPONSE: FACE
CONSUMER RESPONSE: GENDER FREE PARENTING
SUSTAINABILITY
SUMMARY
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
REFERENCES
BIBLIOGRAPHY
PROJECT DECLARATION
4
Fig 2.
5
AIM
The aim of this report is to explore and carefully analyse ‘Gender-free” as a
macro trend, discussing how it is influencing society, business and consumers
behavior on a personal level. The core of this report is to debate how the trend
affects different industries such as beauty, clothing industry, parenting and
education, technology and sustainability, paying attention on how consumers
are responding to these shifts, possible diverse outcomes and interlinks.
METHODOLOGY In order to broaden my understanding of the macro trend and develop consistent
and dense report, I used a variety of secondary sources. Great attention has been
dedicated to online broadsheet newspapers such as the Telegraph, Independent,
The Guardian, GQ, Fashionnetwork, Theverge and others. In order to highlight
substantive findings, profiles on Instagram and YouTube have been explored.
InformationcollectedfromSpecialistFactualseries‘YourFaceSaysItAll’aswellas
‘FutureLab’conferencetogaintheadditionalinformationaboutthefuturetrends.
INTRODUCTION From designer runaway shows
to street-wear, celebrities and
Instagram stars, TV adverts, make-
up, new families and school uniforms,
undeniable sense of the Gender-
free trend are just everywhere. The
question ‘Why bend the gender
rules?’ is not correct anymore.
The right question is ‘Why not?’
The World measure success in men’s
terms – men’s salaries, men’s jobs
and the achievements of ‘man’. To be
recognised as successful a women
must match their male peers, not
each other, and definitely not the
other way around. That is just how the
world expect things to be. However,
in the last 20 years since men have
become more ‘feminised’ the world
has started to change to a better place.
The study, published in Current
Anthropology which curates the
opinions of several academics at US
universities, argues that the relatively
rapid development of Homo sapient
over a period of a few thousand years
– which included crafting the first
hunting tools and the earliest cave
paintings – was attributable to changes
in the male body, making them more
‘feminine’ (Duke University, 2015).
Post-gender utopia has empowered
society to bend the masculinity/
femininity rules, however the main
issue is how this power is exploited.
The dynamism of this macro trend
generates many different results that
can be tracked in different industries.
This report will study the trends key
drivers, the influence on society and
effect on different industry sectors.
The Report will analyse how Gender-
free trend influence consumers and
how brands are responding to it.
6
GOVERNMENT
SCHEMESAccording to The Canadian Press, Ontario are
introducing gender-free driving licenses and
health cards and the Government is making
changes to
“ensure the fair,
ethical and equitable
treatment of people
with trans and non-
binarygenderidentity”.
(The Canadian press 2016)
United Kingdom authorities are adopting to
gender evolves. Many forms and documents have
“other” or “prefer not to say” in gender section.
The way sex and gender information is collected
and used are thought through. Maria Miller,
who chairs the Woman and Equalities Select
Committee, stands up for Britain as a post-gender
utopia. Also campaigns to remove gender checks
form passports and driving licenses has been
backed by a Tory MP. (Lees, 2016).
80 state schools across the UK have introduced
gender-neutral uniform policies allowing
girls to wear trousers and boys to wear skirts
(Ramaswamy, 2016). It’s a part of a government
funded move to support LGBT (lesbian, gay,
bisexual, and transgender) in schools and be more
opentoquestionsaboutgenderandsexualidentity.
Research by Educate and Celebrate shows that
53% of schools do not educate about LGBT and
relationships. 49% do not explain definitions. It
ties with bullying and the negative use of the word
‘gay’ (Ramazway, 2016). Schools and primaries
are in first contact with children in large groups
where these complications can accrue. Children
have rights to express their identity in a most
comfortable way to them and schools are playing
enormous part in this. It might be a long and
cautious way for children to adopt to these new
policies but changes are necessary for supporting
what is acceptable in society.
C. Jordan, president of the Girls Schools
Association (GSA) refers that single-sex schools
are adopting more gender-neutral language and
instead of ‘boys’ or ‘girls’, staff are using ‘pupils’ or
‘students’ (Bingham, 2016). This method would
help transgender pupils to feel welcomed and fit
in with a society as language is a big part of it.
7
We have seen Kanye West wearing skirts
and creating pussy-bow tie blouses for his
collection. Will Smith 16 years old son
Jaden Smith appearing in Louis Vuitton’s
women’s wear campaign for his unceasing
effort to make skirts mainstream for
men. Also Rapper Young Thug wearing a
dress for a Calvin Klein campaign said “I
feel like there’s no such thing as gender”
(McKinney, 2016).
Bruce Jenner shocking transformation
into Caitlyn Jenner at the age of 65 have
given so much confidence and support
for people and organisations working to
end disgrace against transgender people
and provide individuals with the quality
of life and healthcare that they deserve.
This year Caitlyn’s collaboration with Mac
lipstick named “Finally free” raised over
1.3 million dollars towards MAC AIDS
Funds Transgender institute (Dingwall,
2016)
For the very first time in the magazines
‘Covergirl’ history male James Charles is
on the cover. He is an Instagram star with
650 thousand followers and more then
90 thousand subscribers on YouTube.
In a interview with New York Times he
talks about how many people still do not
understand or support gender inclusivity
and self-expression. Online bullying is a
huge issue that slows down the process of
many male individuals to open up. With
the gay marriage law changes, he believes
that the biggest issues are behind the
scene (Safranova, 2016). These examples
confirm that males should not be afraid
to show their sensitive side. Muscularity
is taking a new shape transforming into
more susceptible appearance.
PRESS AND
8
CELEBRITIES
Fig 1.
Fig 3.
9
BEA
UTY10
Clothesandperfumeshavebeenswappedamongst
genderidentitiesforyears.Andnow beautytrends
have developed and are making big statements in
the Gender-free makeup industry. Grand Prix
vining Japanese makeup brand Shiseido video
“High School girl?” plays with gender fluidity.
It demonstrates how powerful cosmetics are by
literally transforming girls to boys. The video
has already reached millions of views. However,
ad rebounds with play M. Butterfly in the 1988.
Play illustrates both- the fluidity of sexual identity
and how a stereotypical perspective of Asians as
"submissive" and "feminine" by default blinds
people to more relevant truths (Rich, 1988).
Marc Jacob shared "I don’t know, but I always
loved that image of a girl putting toenail polish
on a guy — her boyfriend, or something like that.
Or a guy waking up in the morning and reaching
over and putting on his girlfriend’s shirt"(Komar,
2016).
The gender flexibility idea has been around
always, but today individuals are more open-
minded and gender boundaries can be easily
shifted around. Makeup brands like MAC and
Enter Pronoun has created their unisex makeup
lines that are specially developed for mens skin
which is thicker and needs different formulas.
CEO Natalia Ramirez explains that the new
makeup products disguise the dark pigments of
facial hair and are perfect for tattoos (Komar,
2016). While black eyeliner and smokey eye by
Johnny Depp and Kurt Cobain have been around
for decades, new makeup lines are promising new
ideas in the masculine makeup world.
With examples like Cara Delavingne who leaves
her brows bushy and trendy, females have now
switched roles with males in their beauty regimes.
Now Marc Jacobs, Mac and other brands offer a
range of products for men to ease the process
of correcting and sculpting their eyebrows. The
male makeup industry is growing fast and is very
successful. Instagram male beauty bloggers Mac_
Daddyy (1.2 million followers), Zachzenga (43.6
thousand followers) and others embrace a make-
up ethos that blurs the lines between genders.
Vlogger Colin Jay (54+ thousand YouTube views)
says that the male face shape and facial structure
can be better flattered with different techniques
and he wants to further develop the concept and
style of male makeup (Komar, 2016).
Fig 4.
11
CHILDREN CLOTHING
Many children apparel brands are still using
pink and blue as a main colour for boys and
girls clothing. Often these colours are supported
with bold statements and logos, for example,
‘HI BEAUTIFUL’, ‘KISS’, ‘HEY’, ‘LOVE’ for girls,
and ‘BE BRAVE’, ‘LOUD’, ‘I AM THE BOSS’,
‘ADVENTURE’ for boys. Brands are putting
genders in categories and suggesting the choice.
This leads to a question- can girls be brave? Can
boys be emotional?
The stereotypes we see in toy marketing connect
with the same inequalities we see in adult life.
Research by the Welsh organization Chwarae Teg
shows that children in early age already have a
clear idea about future job chose that is hard to
change later on (Peck, 2014).
However, lately there has been a change in colour
schemes. Brands are offering natural colour
schemes for toys, bedding and interiors. Also
sports footwear choices consists of all different
colours for boys and girls, and the same for adults.
Fig 5.
12
TECHNOLOGY
Is there a technological
system developed yet
that would recognize
our identity?
Generation Z appearance is taking a new shape
via outfits, makeup, speech manner and gestures.
Names such as Charlie, Sam, Jo and others can
be used either for male or female. There could
be very little left to recognise if the person is a
male or female. Besides, Tory MP Maria miller
comes up with a suggestion to remove gender
defining titles such as Mr. or Mrs. from passports
and driving licenses (Hodgkinson, 2016). New
upcoming trends leave ID documents as a old
fashioned way to recognise the person. Gender
shifting may critically influence the identification
of an individual. That may lead to more crime,
illegal traveling across the world or prohibited
actions. With appearance changing so quick
national security services needs to introduce new
secure identification systems.
Fingerprints are a system that have been used
acrossmanybusinessessince1990’s,yetIndiegogo.
com announces that the first fingerprint padlock
TAPP has been developed in 2016 and introduces
to a new way of securing your belongings (Tao,
2016).
Lock your apartment with a fingerprint, pay for a
bus journey, grocery shopping or a cinema ticket
purchase. It could be so easy with just a matter
of one fingerprint. This means less clutter in your
bag, less things to carry around. Traveling abroad
would be much easier. In a gender free world a
persons identification can be uncertain. Every
time your look changes you have to change your
document picture. This may be time consuming
andacostlyprocess.Theideaofusingafingerprint
for all identification systems seems very appealing
tothecontemporaryworld,howeverothersources
state that with false copies fingerprint can be the
biggest vulnerability (Brandom, 2016).
Different immense technology achievement that
supports gender-free movement is Ectogenesis.
Journalist and author Vicki Larson wonder if
technology will finally free us from the gendered
roles, especially once we become parents (Larson,
2015). She writes about artificial wombs and
other reproductive technologies, that can free
women from the burden of being baby makers.
There are hundreds of risks for a baby and women
during the pregnancy and birth like premature
birth, postpartum depression, stretch marks,
weight gain and others.
Ectogenesisisaprocessofgroovingafetusoutside
human body in an artificial womb. This would
solve not only problems discussed above but also
fatherless births and mothers by choice. It would
give a chance to gay and transsexual people to
have a child without need for a surrogate. Science
and technology is the way to free society from
gender dictated roles such as breadwinner and
homemaker.Tocreateaworldthatismoresuitable
and equitable for women while freeing men from
the narrow views of muscularity society have to
rely on technology. However, the question is how
far we are willing to take it? Can technology make
this postgenderist dream come true?
13
SOCIAL
MEDIAWhile fashion houses, bloggers and style icons are
raising positive awareness for the underdogs allowing
equality, majority of 126 comments on Selfridges
Agenda campaign in Dailymail.com shows that public
opinion on gender-less clothing were negative. Baring
in mind that the article was published a year ago and
since many opinions may have been altered, few of them
says ‘Cultural Marxism’, ‘Globalisation: Trying to make us
genderless, colourless, thoughtless voids. Resist’, ‘Hello
Sir, oh Madam.. Actually what are you?’,‘Just no.’
It shows that these characters’support the gender binary
system and a new style would be acceptable for a limited
scope of identities. Furthermore, the industry seems to
be focused on a masculine style for all genders, erasing
femme identities.That confirms that the male society are
still afraid to establish the change, hence industries are
presenting the outcome that suit to their financial needs
without going in to contest.
14
FACEA new Specialist Factual series ‘Your Face Says It All’ on
Channel 4 gives an insight into peoples greatest defining
feature- face. The Program explores what makes a face
beautiful and inspires sexual attraction. It states that it is
scientifically proven that people are attracted to others that
have similar features to their own. Gender-neutral trend
involves shifting face features from a mans to woman’s and
vice versa with makeup, eyebrows and hairstyle. Therefore,
making parallels with the new male and female beauty
concept described above, it leads to a question. Are future
couples going to look like twins? Or maybe opposite sex
relationships will be infrequent? If a man is attracted to the
same facial features as his, maybe he will be attracted to a
same sex individual who endorses gender free lifestyle?
Fig 6.
15
GENDER
FREEPARENTINGModern parenting supports post-gender utopia
and a growing number of English children
are raised as gender neutral. Parents are not
restricting a new generation life with traditional
concepts of gender that allow kids to develop
their personalities and think independently.
Jennie Kermode, Chair of Trans Media to ld The
Independent “This approach isn’t simply about
making space for those children who will grow up
trans, it’s about encouraging imaginative play and
helping children put themselves in others’ shoes
(even literally)” (Fenton, 2016).
Continuing on the matter about children
stereotypical future jobs, Swedish singer Robin
has started an event that is meant for girls
from the age of 11 to 18 and intends to inspire
them to their further interests such as robotics,
programming, 3D printing, game development
and motivational talks, which are still dominated
by men. KHT (Royal Institute of Technology)
says that only 34 percent of its new student are
woman (Kastrenakes, 2015). Degendering society
is pushing new talents to take an opportunity
and follow their interests rather than stand by
conventional ideas.
16
Girlmeetsdress.com is a good example of
sustainable practice. Instead of buying an outfit
foroneoccasion,consumercanrentit.Thepiece
can be shared between users and used enough
to cover the production costs. Therefore, using
recourses efficiently and cutting the amount of
items produced, it helps save the environment
and takes a big step towards a sustainable
planet idea.
A new Selfridges campaign ‘Agender’ and Zara
newest collection ‘Ungendered’ can be seen as
one of the new healthy environment projects.
Reducing the amount of apparel styles and
dressing male and female in the same outfits
means less waste. Why rent clothes from a
website or another person if new collections
suggest just to share it in your household.
Boyfriend/girlfriend jeans, jumpers or hoodies
can be sufficiently used. Many apparel brands
pursue consumers to buy new styles each week.
Email notifications about new collections, item
left in your basket or sale reminders makes
consumers buy without a need often leaving
consumer with an overloaded wardrobe and
decisions to throw unwanted items away even
if they are in a good condition. The bigger the
amount of clothes each individual has, the less
they have been worn. New Gender-free stores
and collections are offering the same items
for men and woman suggesting that only one
item can be purchased and then shared within
your partner/brother/sister/friend. It’s only a
matter of time till future stores are sweeping
out‘man’and‘woman’fashion sections in stores
and combining all apparel for gender-free
consumers. It is already getting harder to tell
the difference between departments. On the
streets, store shelves and runways male clothes
arenolongersoeasilydefinable.Ashiftingender
boundaries that is less radical than evolutionary,
blur of the sexes is an organic extension of a
changing attitude in the culture as a whole. Like
our clothing we are becoming more relaxed
about it all.“Function and individuality are now
more important than a uniform idea of what’s
conventionallyappropriate,”saysLindaHewson,
Selfridges’creative director (Garbarino, 2015).
SUSTAINABILITY
Fig 7.
17
SUMMARYAlthough early in its development,
the gender-free world represents big
transformations for society, business
and consumers. Postgenderism is
developing in different forms and
will bring an important change in
the market. Not only fashion houses
and famous style icons, bloggers
and celebrities are rocking the trend
by wearing opposite sex clothes
and promoting unisex lifestyle, we
have already seen a move from the
government with them introducing
gender-check free identification
documents and supporting gender-
free uniform policies in schools. More
and more brands are developing their
gender-neutral clothing and makeup
lines in an environment friendly
way, however, It will be a journey for
companies to seek out and support
gender raised issues and give the
effective results to attract consumers.
Comments on social media show
that a big scope of identities are very
reserved towards gender-free idea.
Most likely the Gen Z are the ones
who will be influenced the most. New
technologies are about to knock down
stereotypes about a child’s birth and
father/mother functions. Gender free
parenting is already popular within
Millennials, but how far it will go in
the future? Based on research from a
TV program ‘Your face says it all’, raises
a question - will future couples look
identical?Andiftheywill,howandwho
will be able to recognise the person’s
identity? This can be a game changer
for many fashion related businesses
as it is strongly connected with
appearance of individual. Companies
would need to develop structures
that supplement a new gender-free
generation.
Future Thinking project raised many
questions about topics that challenge
further investigations and research. To
name a few:
1.	 Transgender pupils being
bullied in schools.
2.	 Male beauty expression online.
3.	 Campaigns to end disgrace
against transgender people.
4.	 Breaking stereotypes about
parenting.
5.	 Identity recognition.
6.	 Future couples.
7.	Ectogenesis.
8.	 Produce less- use more.
This is a springboard for taking new
challenges and obtaining solutions
in order to support businesses and
consumers, understanding their
behavior and perceptions.
18
Fig 8.
19
LIST OF ILUSTRATIONS
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20
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
Articles McKinney, J. (2016) Young thug rocks Womenswear for Calvin Klein. Available at: http://www.vibe.
com/2016/07/young-thug-womenswear-calvin-klein/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
OMGchronicles (2015) Will technology make us gender neutral? Available at: http://omgchronicles.vickilarson.
com/2015/07/14/will-technology-make-us-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Peck, S. (2014) Experts say we should be raising children the ‘gender-neutral’ way. Are they right? And what does it
even mean? Available at: http://s.telegraph.co.uk/graphics/projects/parenting-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November
2016).
Press, T.C. and The Canadian Press (2016) Ontario to introduce gender-neutral driver’s licences, health cards in 2017
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drivers-licences-health-cards-in-2017.html (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Ramaswamy, C. (2016) UK state schools get gender-neutral uniforms. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/
world/shortcuts/2016/jun/13/uk-state-schools-get-gender-neutral-uniforms (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Tao, D. (2016) TAPP: The world’s First smart fingerprint padlock. Available at: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/
tapp-the-world-s-first-smart-fingerprint-padlock-fitness-travel#/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Journals
Duke university (2016) Society bloomed with gentler personalities, more feminine faces: Technology boom 50, 000
years ago correlated with less testosterone. Available at: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/08/140801171114.
htm (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Audio/ Video
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21
McKinney, J. (2016) Young thug rocks Womenswear for Calvin Klein. Available at: http://www.vibe.com/2016/07/
young-thug-womenswear-calvin-klein/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
OMGchronicles (2015) Will technology make us gender neutral? Available at: http://omgchronicles.vickilarson.
com/2015/07/14/will-technology-make-us-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Peck, S. (2014) Experts say we should be raising children the ‘gender-neutral’ way. Are they right? And what does it
even mean? Available at: http://s.telegraph.co.uk/graphics/projects/parenting-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November
2016).
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drivers-licences-health-cards-in-2017.html (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Ramaswamy, C. (2016) UK state schools get gender-neutral uniforms. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/
world/shortcuts/2016/jun/13/uk-state-schools-get-gender-neutral-uniforms (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Tao, D. (2016) TAPP: The world’s First smart fingerprint padlock. Available at: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/
tapp-the-world-s-first-smart-fingerprint-padlock-fitness-travel#/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Journals
Duke university (2016) Society bloomed with gentler personalities, more feminine faces: Technology boom 50, 000
years ago correlated with less testosterone. Available at: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/08/140801171114.
htm (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Audio/ Video
Channel 4, Specialist Factual series (2016) Your face says it all. Episode 2. Available at: http://www.channel4.com/
programmes/your-face-says-it-all/on-demand/62715-002 (Accessed: 8 November 2016)
SHISEIDO (2015) High school girl? (The secret of high school Girls). Available at: https://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=5n3Db6pMQ-8 (Accessed: 8 November 2016).
Conference
Furure Lab Conference, Trend Briefing, 26 October 2016, Broadway Cinema, Nottingham
22
School of Art and Design	 Fashion Marketing & Branding
FMB
	
FMBR30001 Project Declaration
Project: Future thinking . Gender-Free
		
	
		
This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from
tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been
properly attributed.
Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of
examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University's regulations on
assessment contained in its handbook.
signed ..............................................................
print name …Santa Brice
date ...................10/11/2016
23
Santa Brice
N0583850
Future Thinking . Gender-Free
santa.brice2014@my.ntu.ac.uk

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Future thinking

  • 1. Fig 1. Future Thinking Santa Brice N0583850 Future Thinking . Gender-Free santa.brice2014@my.ntu.ac.uk
  • 2. Fe
  • 3. ey
  • 4. TABLE OF CONTENTS 06 06 06 07 08 10 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 20 20 21 23 AIM METHODOLOGY INTRODUCTION TREND DRIVER: GOVERNMENT SCHEMES TREND DRIVER: PRESS AND CELEBRITIES BRAND RESPONSE: BEAUTY BRAND RESPONSE: CHILDREN CLOTHING BRAND RESPONSE: TECHNOLOGY CONSUMER RESPONSE: SOCIAL MEDIA CONSUMER RESPONSE: FACE CONSUMER RESPONSE: GENDER FREE PARENTING SUSTAINABILITY SUMMARY LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAPHY PROJECT DECLARATION 4
  • 6. AIM The aim of this report is to explore and carefully analyse ‘Gender-free” as a macro trend, discussing how it is influencing society, business and consumers behavior on a personal level. The core of this report is to debate how the trend affects different industries such as beauty, clothing industry, parenting and education, technology and sustainability, paying attention on how consumers are responding to these shifts, possible diverse outcomes and interlinks. METHODOLOGY In order to broaden my understanding of the macro trend and develop consistent and dense report, I used a variety of secondary sources. Great attention has been dedicated to online broadsheet newspapers such as the Telegraph, Independent, The Guardian, GQ, Fashionnetwork, Theverge and others. In order to highlight substantive findings, profiles on Instagram and YouTube have been explored. InformationcollectedfromSpecialistFactualseries‘YourFaceSaysItAll’aswellas ‘FutureLab’conferencetogaintheadditionalinformationaboutthefuturetrends. INTRODUCTION From designer runaway shows to street-wear, celebrities and Instagram stars, TV adverts, make- up, new families and school uniforms, undeniable sense of the Gender- free trend are just everywhere. The question ‘Why bend the gender rules?’ is not correct anymore. The right question is ‘Why not?’ The World measure success in men’s terms – men’s salaries, men’s jobs and the achievements of ‘man’. To be recognised as successful a women must match their male peers, not each other, and definitely not the other way around. That is just how the world expect things to be. However, in the last 20 years since men have become more ‘feminised’ the world has started to change to a better place. The study, published in Current Anthropology which curates the opinions of several academics at US universities, argues that the relatively rapid development of Homo sapient over a period of a few thousand years – which included crafting the first hunting tools and the earliest cave paintings – was attributable to changes in the male body, making them more ‘feminine’ (Duke University, 2015). Post-gender utopia has empowered society to bend the masculinity/ femininity rules, however the main issue is how this power is exploited. The dynamism of this macro trend generates many different results that can be tracked in different industries. This report will study the trends key drivers, the influence on society and effect on different industry sectors. The Report will analyse how Gender- free trend influence consumers and how brands are responding to it. 6
  • 7. GOVERNMENT SCHEMESAccording to The Canadian Press, Ontario are introducing gender-free driving licenses and health cards and the Government is making changes to “ensure the fair, ethical and equitable treatment of people with trans and non- binarygenderidentity”. (The Canadian press 2016) United Kingdom authorities are adopting to gender evolves. Many forms and documents have “other” or “prefer not to say” in gender section. The way sex and gender information is collected and used are thought through. Maria Miller, who chairs the Woman and Equalities Select Committee, stands up for Britain as a post-gender utopia. Also campaigns to remove gender checks form passports and driving licenses has been backed by a Tory MP. (Lees, 2016). 80 state schools across the UK have introduced gender-neutral uniform policies allowing girls to wear trousers and boys to wear skirts (Ramaswamy, 2016). It’s a part of a government funded move to support LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender) in schools and be more opentoquestionsaboutgenderandsexualidentity. Research by Educate and Celebrate shows that 53% of schools do not educate about LGBT and relationships. 49% do not explain definitions. It ties with bullying and the negative use of the word ‘gay’ (Ramazway, 2016). Schools and primaries are in first contact with children in large groups where these complications can accrue. Children have rights to express their identity in a most comfortable way to them and schools are playing enormous part in this. It might be a long and cautious way for children to adopt to these new policies but changes are necessary for supporting what is acceptable in society. C. Jordan, president of the Girls Schools Association (GSA) refers that single-sex schools are adopting more gender-neutral language and instead of ‘boys’ or ‘girls’, staff are using ‘pupils’ or ‘students’ (Bingham, 2016). This method would help transgender pupils to feel welcomed and fit in with a society as language is a big part of it. 7
  • 8. We have seen Kanye West wearing skirts and creating pussy-bow tie blouses for his collection. Will Smith 16 years old son Jaden Smith appearing in Louis Vuitton’s women’s wear campaign for his unceasing effort to make skirts mainstream for men. Also Rapper Young Thug wearing a dress for a Calvin Klein campaign said “I feel like there’s no such thing as gender” (McKinney, 2016). Bruce Jenner shocking transformation into Caitlyn Jenner at the age of 65 have given so much confidence and support for people and organisations working to end disgrace against transgender people and provide individuals with the quality of life and healthcare that they deserve. This year Caitlyn’s collaboration with Mac lipstick named “Finally free” raised over 1.3 million dollars towards MAC AIDS Funds Transgender institute (Dingwall, 2016) For the very first time in the magazines ‘Covergirl’ history male James Charles is on the cover. He is an Instagram star with 650 thousand followers and more then 90 thousand subscribers on YouTube. In a interview with New York Times he talks about how many people still do not understand or support gender inclusivity and self-expression. Online bullying is a huge issue that slows down the process of many male individuals to open up. With the gay marriage law changes, he believes that the biggest issues are behind the scene (Safranova, 2016). These examples confirm that males should not be afraid to show their sensitive side. Muscularity is taking a new shape transforming into more susceptible appearance. PRESS AND 8
  • 11. Clothesandperfumeshavebeenswappedamongst genderidentitiesforyears.Andnow beautytrends have developed and are making big statements in the Gender-free makeup industry. Grand Prix vining Japanese makeup brand Shiseido video “High School girl?” plays with gender fluidity. It demonstrates how powerful cosmetics are by literally transforming girls to boys. The video has already reached millions of views. However, ad rebounds with play M. Butterfly in the 1988. Play illustrates both- the fluidity of sexual identity and how a stereotypical perspective of Asians as "submissive" and "feminine" by default blinds people to more relevant truths (Rich, 1988). Marc Jacob shared "I don’t know, but I always loved that image of a girl putting toenail polish on a guy — her boyfriend, or something like that. Or a guy waking up in the morning and reaching over and putting on his girlfriend’s shirt"(Komar, 2016). The gender flexibility idea has been around always, but today individuals are more open- minded and gender boundaries can be easily shifted around. Makeup brands like MAC and Enter Pronoun has created their unisex makeup lines that are specially developed for mens skin which is thicker and needs different formulas. CEO Natalia Ramirez explains that the new makeup products disguise the dark pigments of facial hair and are perfect for tattoos (Komar, 2016). While black eyeliner and smokey eye by Johnny Depp and Kurt Cobain have been around for decades, new makeup lines are promising new ideas in the masculine makeup world. With examples like Cara Delavingne who leaves her brows bushy and trendy, females have now switched roles with males in their beauty regimes. Now Marc Jacobs, Mac and other brands offer a range of products for men to ease the process of correcting and sculpting their eyebrows. The male makeup industry is growing fast and is very successful. Instagram male beauty bloggers Mac_ Daddyy (1.2 million followers), Zachzenga (43.6 thousand followers) and others embrace a make- up ethos that blurs the lines between genders. Vlogger Colin Jay (54+ thousand YouTube views) says that the male face shape and facial structure can be better flattered with different techniques and he wants to further develop the concept and style of male makeup (Komar, 2016). Fig 4. 11
  • 12. CHILDREN CLOTHING Many children apparel brands are still using pink and blue as a main colour for boys and girls clothing. Often these colours are supported with bold statements and logos, for example, ‘HI BEAUTIFUL’, ‘KISS’, ‘HEY’, ‘LOVE’ for girls, and ‘BE BRAVE’, ‘LOUD’, ‘I AM THE BOSS’, ‘ADVENTURE’ for boys. Brands are putting genders in categories and suggesting the choice. This leads to a question- can girls be brave? Can boys be emotional? The stereotypes we see in toy marketing connect with the same inequalities we see in adult life. Research by the Welsh organization Chwarae Teg shows that children in early age already have a clear idea about future job chose that is hard to change later on (Peck, 2014). However, lately there has been a change in colour schemes. Brands are offering natural colour schemes for toys, bedding and interiors. Also sports footwear choices consists of all different colours for boys and girls, and the same for adults. Fig 5. 12
  • 13. TECHNOLOGY Is there a technological system developed yet that would recognize our identity? Generation Z appearance is taking a new shape via outfits, makeup, speech manner and gestures. Names such as Charlie, Sam, Jo and others can be used either for male or female. There could be very little left to recognise if the person is a male or female. Besides, Tory MP Maria miller comes up with a suggestion to remove gender defining titles such as Mr. or Mrs. from passports and driving licenses (Hodgkinson, 2016). New upcoming trends leave ID documents as a old fashioned way to recognise the person. Gender shifting may critically influence the identification of an individual. That may lead to more crime, illegal traveling across the world or prohibited actions. With appearance changing so quick national security services needs to introduce new secure identification systems. Fingerprints are a system that have been used acrossmanybusinessessince1990’s,yetIndiegogo. com announces that the first fingerprint padlock TAPP has been developed in 2016 and introduces to a new way of securing your belongings (Tao, 2016). Lock your apartment with a fingerprint, pay for a bus journey, grocery shopping or a cinema ticket purchase. It could be so easy with just a matter of one fingerprint. This means less clutter in your bag, less things to carry around. Traveling abroad would be much easier. In a gender free world a persons identification can be uncertain. Every time your look changes you have to change your document picture. This may be time consuming andacostlyprocess.Theideaofusingafingerprint for all identification systems seems very appealing tothecontemporaryworld,howeverothersources state that with false copies fingerprint can be the biggest vulnerability (Brandom, 2016). Different immense technology achievement that supports gender-free movement is Ectogenesis. Journalist and author Vicki Larson wonder if technology will finally free us from the gendered roles, especially once we become parents (Larson, 2015). She writes about artificial wombs and other reproductive technologies, that can free women from the burden of being baby makers. There are hundreds of risks for a baby and women during the pregnancy and birth like premature birth, postpartum depression, stretch marks, weight gain and others. Ectogenesisisaprocessofgroovingafetusoutside human body in an artificial womb. This would solve not only problems discussed above but also fatherless births and mothers by choice. It would give a chance to gay and transsexual people to have a child without need for a surrogate. Science and technology is the way to free society from gender dictated roles such as breadwinner and homemaker.Tocreateaworldthatismoresuitable and equitable for women while freeing men from the narrow views of muscularity society have to rely on technology. However, the question is how far we are willing to take it? Can technology make this postgenderist dream come true? 13
  • 14. SOCIAL MEDIAWhile fashion houses, bloggers and style icons are raising positive awareness for the underdogs allowing equality, majority of 126 comments on Selfridges Agenda campaign in Dailymail.com shows that public opinion on gender-less clothing were negative. Baring in mind that the article was published a year ago and since many opinions may have been altered, few of them says ‘Cultural Marxism’, ‘Globalisation: Trying to make us genderless, colourless, thoughtless voids. Resist’, ‘Hello Sir, oh Madam.. Actually what are you?’,‘Just no.’ It shows that these characters’support the gender binary system and a new style would be acceptable for a limited scope of identities. Furthermore, the industry seems to be focused on a masculine style for all genders, erasing femme identities.That confirms that the male society are still afraid to establish the change, hence industries are presenting the outcome that suit to their financial needs without going in to contest. 14
  • 15. FACEA new Specialist Factual series ‘Your Face Says It All’ on Channel 4 gives an insight into peoples greatest defining feature- face. The Program explores what makes a face beautiful and inspires sexual attraction. It states that it is scientifically proven that people are attracted to others that have similar features to their own. Gender-neutral trend involves shifting face features from a mans to woman’s and vice versa with makeup, eyebrows and hairstyle. Therefore, making parallels with the new male and female beauty concept described above, it leads to a question. Are future couples going to look like twins? Or maybe opposite sex relationships will be infrequent? If a man is attracted to the same facial features as his, maybe he will be attracted to a same sex individual who endorses gender free lifestyle? Fig 6. 15
  • 16. GENDER FREEPARENTINGModern parenting supports post-gender utopia and a growing number of English children are raised as gender neutral. Parents are not restricting a new generation life with traditional concepts of gender that allow kids to develop their personalities and think independently. Jennie Kermode, Chair of Trans Media to ld The Independent “This approach isn’t simply about making space for those children who will grow up trans, it’s about encouraging imaginative play and helping children put themselves in others’ shoes (even literally)” (Fenton, 2016). Continuing on the matter about children stereotypical future jobs, Swedish singer Robin has started an event that is meant for girls from the age of 11 to 18 and intends to inspire them to their further interests such as robotics, programming, 3D printing, game development and motivational talks, which are still dominated by men. KHT (Royal Institute of Technology) says that only 34 percent of its new student are woman (Kastrenakes, 2015). Degendering society is pushing new talents to take an opportunity and follow their interests rather than stand by conventional ideas. 16
  • 17. Girlmeetsdress.com is a good example of sustainable practice. Instead of buying an outfit foroneoccasion,consumercanrentit.Thepiece can be shared between users and used enough to cover the production costs. Therefore, using recourses efficiently and cutting the amount of items produced, it helps save the environment and takes a big step towards a sustainable planet idea. A new Selfridges campaign ‘Agender’ and Zara newest collection ‘Ungendered’ can be seen as one of the new healthy environment projects. Reducing the amount of apparel styles and dressing male and female in the same outfits means less waste. Why rent clothes from a website or another person if new collections suggest just to share it in your household. Boyfriend/girlfriend jeans, jumpers or hoodies can be sufficiently used. Many apparel brands pursue consumers to buy new styles each week. Email notifications about new collections, item left in your basket or sale reminders makes consumers buy without a need often leaving consumer with an overloaded wardrobe and decisions to throw unwanted items away even if they are in a good condition. The bigger the amount of clothes each individual has, the less they have been worn. New Gender-free stores and collections are offering the same items for men and woman suggesting that only one item can be purchased and then shared within your partner/brother/sister/friend. It’s only a matter of time till future stores are sweeping out‘man’and‘woman’fashion sections in stores and combining all apparel for gender-free consumers. It is already getting harder to tell the difference between departments. On the streets, store shelves and runways male clothes arenolongersoeasilydefinable.Ashiftingender boundaries that is less radical than evolutionary, blur of the sexes is an organic extension of a changing attitude in the culture as a whole. Like our clothing we are becoming more relaxed about it all.“Function and individuality are now more important than a uniform idea of what’s conventionallyappropriate,”saysLindaHewson, Selfridges’creative director (Garbarino, 2015). SUSTAINABILITY Fig 7. 17
  • 18. SUMMARYAlthough early in its development, the gender-free world represents big transformations for society, business and consumers. Postgenderism is developing in different forms and will bring an important change in the market. Not only fashion houses and famous style icons, bloggers and celebrities are rocking the trend by wearing opposite sex clothes and promoting unisex lifestyle, we have already seen a move from the government with them introducing gender-check free identification documents and supporting gender- free uniform policies in schools. More and more brands are developing their gender-neutral clothing and makeup lines in an environment friendly way, however, It will be a journey for companies to seek out and support gender raised issues and give the effective results to attract consumers. Comments on social media show that a big scope of identities are very reserved towards gender-free idea. Most likely the Gen Z are the ones who will be influenced the most. New technologies are about to knock down stereotypes about a child’s birth and father/mother functions. Gender free parenting is already popular within Millennials, but how far it will go in the future? Based on research from a TV program ‘Your face says it all’, raises a question - will future couples look identical?Andiftheywill,howandwho will be able to recognise the person’s identity? This can be a game changer for many fashion related businesses as it is strongly connected with appearance of individual. Companies would need to develop structures that supplement a new gender-free generation. Future Thinking project raised many questions about topics that challenge further investigations and research. To name a few: 1. Transgender pupils being bullied in schools. 2. Male beauty expression online. 3. Campaigns to end disgrace against transgender people. 4. Breaking stereotypes about parenting. 5. Identity recognition. 6. Future couples. 7. Ectogenesis. 8. Produce less- use more. This is a springboard for taking new challenges and obtaining solutions in order to support businesses and consumers, understanding their behavior and perceptions. 18
  • 20. LIST OF ILUSTRATIONS REFERENCES Fig.1(Front cover), Lily (no date) Switch teams. Available at: http://switchteams.tumblr.com (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Fig.2 delivered, S., LtdPOST—Bethnals, registered and Number, R. (2014) Home. Available at: https://bethnals. com (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Fig.3 Yotka, S. (2016) Jaden Smith and a video game character star in Louis Vuitton’s latest campaign. Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13384178/jaden-smith-louis-vuitton-campaign/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Fig.4 Lumpkin, J. (2013) Boys can be pretty: Natalia Ramirez on Unisex makeup. Available at: http://www. huffingtonpost.com/jincey-lumpkin/boys-can-be-pretty-natalia-ramirez-on-unisex-makeup_b_2756972.html (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Fig.5 Même spring/summer 2015 Lookbook (no date) Available at: http://www.fashionglossaryuk.com/news_type/ meme-springsummer-2015-lookbook/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Fig 6. Ridolfi, V. (2012) Unisex revival. Available at: http://www.vogue.it/en/beauty/beauty-news/2012/03/ cosmetic-gender-free (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Fig.7 Sharkey, L. (2016) Zara joins the gender fluid movement with new unisex clothing line. Available at: http:// www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/zara-gender-fluid-agender-unisex-fashion-transgender-ruby- rose-a6917496.html (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Fig.8 Agendering (2015) Available at: http://stylebubble.co.uk/style_bubble/2015/04/agendering.html?utm_ source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed:+StyleBubble+(Style+Bubble) (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Bingham, J. (2016) Don’t call girls girls, advise gender neutral headmistresses. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ news/2016/06/19/dont-call-girls-girls-advise-gender-neutral-headmistresses/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Brandom, R. (2016) Your phone’s biggest vulnerability is your fingerprint. Available at: http://www.theverge. com/2016/5/2/11540962/iphone-samsung-fingerprint-duplicate-hack-security (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Dingwall, kate and FashionN (2016) MAC and Caitlyn Jenner collaboration raises $1.3 million. Available at: http:// uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/MAC-and-Caitlyn-Jenner-collaboration-raises-1-3-million,747815.html#utm_ source=newsletter&utm_medium=email (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Fenton, S. (2016) Gender neutral children: Meet the new generation of parents with a gender-neutral approach to childhood. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/gender-neutral-children-meet-the-new-generation- of-parents-with-a-gender-neutral-approach-to-a6986791.html (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Garbarino, S. (2015) Blurred lines: Why gender-neutral fashion is the new normal. Available at: http://www.gq.com/ story/androgyny-trend-menswear (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Hodgkinson, L. (2016) Why we should do away with gender-defining titles. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/ goodlife/living/why-we-should-do-away-with-gender-defining-titles/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Kastrenakes, J. (2015) Robyn launches tech festival for teenage girls. Available at: http://www.theverge. com/2015/3/20/8266555/robyn-launches-tech-festival-girls-tekla (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Komar, M. (2016) 11 gender neutral beauty trends Repped by all gender identities — PHOTOS. Available at: https:// www.bustle.com/articles/163312-11-gender-neutral-beauty-trends-repped-by-all-gender-identities-photos (Accessed: 8 November 2016). 20
  • 21. Lees, P. (2016) ‘Why I believe the future is gender-free’. Available at: http://theday.co.uk/opinion/why-i-believe-the- future-is-gender-free (Accessed: 8 November 2016). McKinney, J. (2016) Young thug rocks Womenswear for Calvin Klein. Available at: http://www.vibe.com/2016/07/ young-thug-womenswear-calvin-klein/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). OMGchronicles (2015) Will technology make us gender neutral? Available at: http://omgchronicles.vickilarson. com/2015/07/14/will-technology-make-us-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Peck, S. (2014) Experts say we should be raising children the ‘gender-neutral’ way. Are they right? And what does it even mean? Available at: http://s.telegraph.co.uk/graphics/projects/parenting-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Press, T.C. and The Canadian Press (2016) Ontario to introduce gender-neutral driver’s licences, health cards in 2017 | Toronto star. Available at: https://www.thestar.com/news/canada/2016/06/29/ontario-to-introduce-gender-neutral- drivers-licences-health-cards-in-2017.html (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Ramaswamy, C. (2016) UK state schools get gender-neutral uniforms. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ world/shortcuts/2016/jun/13/uk-state-schools-get-gender-neutral-uniforms (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Tao, D. (2016) TAPP: The world’s First smart fingerprint padlock. Available at: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ tapp-the-world-s-first-smart-fingerprint-padlock-fitness-travel#/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Duke university (2016) Society bloomed with gentler personalities, more feminine faces: Technology boom 50, 000 years ago correlated with less testosterone. Available at: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/08/140801171114. htm (Accessed: 8 November 2016). BIBLIOGRAPHY Articles McKinney, J. (2016) Young thug rocks Womenswear for Calvin Klein. Available at: http://www.vibe. com/2016/07/young-thug-womenswear-calvin-klein/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). OMGchronicles (2015) Will technology make us gender neutral? Available at: http://omgchronicles.vickilarson. com/2015/07/14/will-technology-make-us-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Peck, S. (2014) Experts say we should be raising children the ‘gender-neutral’ way. Are they right? And what does it even mean? Available at: http://s.telegraph.co.uk/graphics/projects/parenting-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Press, T.C. and The Canadian Press (2016) Ontario to introduce gender-neutral driver’s licences, health cards in 2017 | Toronto star. Available at: https://www.thestar.com/news/canada/2016/06/29/ontario-to-introduce-gender-neutral- drivers-licences-health-cards-in-2017.html (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Ramaswamy, C. (2016) UK state schools get gender-neutral uniforms. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ world/shortcuts/2016/jun/13/uk-state-schools-get-gender-neutral-uniforms (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Tao, D. (2016) TAPP: The world’s First smart fingerprint padlock. Available at: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ tapp-the-world-s-first-smart-fingerprint-padlock-fitness-travel#/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Journals Duke university (2016) Society bloomed with gentler personalities, more feminine faces: Technology boom 50, 000 years ago correlated with less testosterone. Available at: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/08/140801171114. htm (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Audio/ Video Channel 4, Specialist Factual series (2016) Your face says it all. Episode 2. Available at: http://www.channel4.com/ programmes/your-face-says-it-all/on-demand/62715-002 (Accessed: 8 November 2016) 21
  • 22. McKinney, J. (2016) Young thug rocks Womenswear for Calvin Klein. Available at: http://www.vibe.com/2016/07/ young-thug-womenswear-calvin-klein/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). OMGchronicles (2015) Will technology make us gender neutral? Available at: http://omgchronicles.vickilarson. com/2015/07/14/will-technology-make-us-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Peck, S. (2014) Experts say we should be raising children the ‘gender-neutral’ way. Are they right? And what does it even mean? Available at: http://s.telegraph.co.uk/graphics/projects/parenting-gender-neutral/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Press, T.C. and The Canadian Press (2016) Ontario to introduce gender-neutral driver’s licences, health cards in 2017 | Toronto star. Available at: https://www.thestar.com/news/canada/2016/06/29/ontario-to-introduce-gender-neutral- drivers-licences-health-cards-in-2017.html (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Ramaswamy, C. (2016) UK state schools get gender-neutral uniforms. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ world/shortcuts/2016/jun/13/uk-state-schools-get-gender-neutral-uniforms (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Tao, D. (2016) TAPP: The world’s First smart fingerprint padlock. Available at: https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/ tapp-the-world-s-first-smart-fingerprint-padlock-fitness-travel#/ (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Journals Duke university (2016) Society bloomed with gentler personalities, more feminine faces: Technology boom 50, 000 years ago correlated with less testosterone. Available at: https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/08/140801171114. htm (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Audio/ Video Channel 4, Specialist Factual series (2016) Your face says it all. Episode 2. Available at: http://www.channel4.com/ programmes/your-face-says-it-all/on-demand/62715-002 (Accessed: 8 November 2016) SHISEIDO (2015) High school girl? (The secret of high school Girls). Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=5n3Db6pMQ-8 (Accessed: 8 November 2016). Conference Furure Lab Conference, Trend Briefing, 26 October 2016, Broadway Cinema, Nottingham 22
  • 23. School of Art and Design Fashion Marketing & Branding FMB FMBR30001 Project Declaration Project: Future thinking . Gender-Free This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University's regulations on assessment contained in its handbook. signed .............................................................. print name …Santa Brice date ...................10/11/2016 23
  • 24. Santa Brice N0583850 Future Thinking . Gender-Free santa.brice2014@my.ntu.ac.uk