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MASCULINITY & MODERNITY:

INVESTIGATING THE MEN OF BRITAIN TODAY

Planning Foresight

February 2014
1
CONTENTS
FOREWORD
INTRODUCTION: GENDER BLURRING
PICTURE PERFECT: THE OUTER MAN
•	 SELF-IMAGE: APPEARANCE ANXIETY
•	 STYLE: ANYTHING GOES
•	 BODY IMAGE: TRIM TORSOS
•	 THE MAN IN THE MIRROR:
	 MALE GROOMING
•	 BEAUTY & THE BLOKE

UNDER THE SKIN: THE INNER MAN
•	 THE END OF MEN?
•	 DEFINITIONS OF MEN:
	 CHIVALRY IS NOT DEAD
•	 MALE PRIDE: THE PROVIDER
Planning Foresight is JWT London’s dedicated
research and insight team. Led by Marie Stafford,
an expert in consumer insight, trends and
quantitative analysis, Planning Foresight
is the creativity behind the creativity at JWT.
The team powers the agency’s thinking, making
sense of changes in culture and society,
bolstering strategy and delivering a shot
of thought-provoking inspiration.

•	 SIGNALS OF MASCULINITY:
	 EMOTIONAL CAPABILITY
•	 FAMILY GUY
•	 MEN WHOM MEN ADMIRE

THE FINAL WORD: MARKETING TO MEN
01
FOREWORD
This isn’t about gender, it’s about acceptance.
The framework of understanding we have relied upon
to determine what is acceptable or expected of gender
is no longer relevant. The codes this framework was
built on are changing rapidly. Today’s men are no longer
constrained by these shackles and are freer to choose
who they want to be than ever before.

to counterbalance this. But whereas a hirsute man would
traditionally signify a rugged, chapped-hand breed
of heterosexuality, and a ripped body told people
he was gay, the UK now navigates a sea of beards who
visit grooming parlours – traditional salons revived for
modern men who spend more time in the bathroom
than their wives – and a generation of teenage girls who
expect boys to dress like a pop star and sport a six pack.

With this in mind, JWT launched a major research
initiative to get to the heart of what it means to
be a man in today’s fluid gender landscape. What
is masculinity? How does it relate to femininity?
And how are men feeling about and coping with
this rapidly shifting ground?

This isn’t about feminine-masculinity, or masculinefemininity for that matter – this is a conversation about
acceptance, and the availability of a carte blanche
to express yourself in whatever way you choose. There
are ripe opportunities here for brands to communicate
with men in new and meaningful ways.

The modern man has moved beyond defining himself
by the traditional hallmarks of masculinity such as
strength, power and financial provision. More important
now are his values and his capability for emotional
support and family provision. This shift is occurring
in part as a result of the changing dynamic between
the genders. And men seem to be struggling with how
to navigate these uncharted waters. Are brands offering
men sufficient support?
A key shift that we’ve observed is a growing acceptance
of men prioritising their appearance. Not only can they
take care of their looks without judgement, there
is a huge diversity of looks men can adopt. For instance,
waxed chests and tight torsos abound in the media,
whilst some men have engineered a more virile look
02

NOTE:
Generational groups used throughout this report
are defined as follows:
• Gen Y: Age 18-34
• Gen X: Age 35-47
• Boomers: Age 48+
JWT surveyed 500 British consumers in summer 2013.

03
INTRODUCTION:
GENDER BLURRING
Traditional concepts of gender are morphing, their
boundaries relaxing and shapes becoming less defined.
This is changing society’s expectations of men, as well
as what they expect for themselves.

74%

of all adults
agree that gender
doesn’t define
a person as much
as it used to

04

78%

of all adults agree
that men and women
don’t need to conform
to traditional roles
and behaviours

Some brands are starting to respond to this more fluid
mind-set with the development of gender-agnostic
products and services. In retail for instance, Harrods
Toy Kingdom re-opened last year, displaying products
organised by theme rather than gender, and Calvin Klein
recently launched a make-up range designed for use
by both men and women.
Centuries-old institutions are changing too. Following
a campaign from transgender and LGBT (lesbian, gay,
bisexual and transgender) representatives, the University
of Cambridge has opted for a new gender-neutral dress
code for its graduation ceremonies. In effect, the change
means that men could wear skirts for graduation – and
women suits.
The fashion industry is highlighting the potential of gender
ambiguity by casting androgynous models in genderbending roles. Male model Andrej Pejić models for both
men and womenswear whilst Ford Models’ male division
signed female model Casey Legler to its books last year:
the first female menswear model.

05
“If images of me out there in the
world make it that much easier
for another kid, and the kids
around them or their parents,
to get on with the more
important business of figuring
out who they are and how
they can uniquely contribute
to the stream of life, then my
job is done.”

PICTURE PERFECT:
THE OUTER MAN

Casey Legler, female menswear model 1

Society now presents men with an ever-widening array
of acceptable lifestyle options and possibilities. Almost
anything goes, and as a consequence, men are confronted
by a new battery of decisions to make: to wax or not
to wax? Full-time employee or full-time father? While
their female counterparts have been navigating these
questions for a couple of generations, for many men,
it’s still a novel and indeed, daunting experience.

1	
I’m a woman who models men’s clothes.
	 But this isn’t about gender, The Guardian, 1 Nov 2013

06

07
SELF-IMAGE:
APPEARANCE ANXIETY
“I’m not someone who’ll take
my top off on the beach. I do
seriously have issues, I think.
[My wife] thinks I’m getting
so skinny, but I look at myself
and think I’m getting fat. It’s
the way the Hollywood [ideal]
is thrown at you… to be Ryan
Gosling with a perfect six-pack.”
Sam Claflin, Hollywood actor 2

The role of the media in creating unhealthy ideals
of women’s beauty has been a hot topic for decades.
However, men now feel the same pressure as women
to look good. In fact, over three quarters of our male
respondents agree that they feel obliged to present
a polished exterior.

	Manorexia’ and Hollywood’s hunger games, The Guardian, 17 Nov 2013
’

2

80%

78%

76%

These days, there’s
more pressure than
in the past for men
to dress well and
be well-groomed

These days, there is
as much pressure on
men to stay in shape/
have a good body as
there is on women

These days, there
is as much pressure
on men to dress well
and be well-groomed
as there is on women

(base: all men)

And the lengths they will go to to achieve their desired
appearance are growing more extreme: men now
account for 10% of cosmetic surgery procedures
in the UK 3, something that would have been almost
unimaginable a decade ago. In 2012, the most popular
surgeries for men were nose jobs (952 procedures),
eyelid surgery (758 procedures) and breast reductions
(642 procedures)4. Men are clearly jumping on the
surgical bandwagon to correct the parts of their body
that can’t be fixed with a trip to the gym.

BRAND IMPLICATIONS:
Men are increasingly conscious of the way they look,
dress and groom themselves. It will become increasingly
important for brands to offer men easily accessible
options for putting their best foot forward – without
contributing to the pressure they feel.

	 ttitudes towards cosmetic surgery, Mintel, May 2013
A
	 he Guardian Datablog, January 2013
T

3

4

08

09
STYLE: ANYTHING GOES
Whilst there is more pressure to look good, the rules
around achieving this are more relaxed. To ‘take care
of yourself’ now can manifest itself in diverse ways,
thanks to a new, more liberal environment.
A recent survey by The Westfield Group shows that
the average man spends £988 a year on clothes, shoes
and accessories and is now browsing or buying clothes
on average two and half times per week.5 Men are also
starting to embrace traditionally ‘feminine’ items
of clothing as part of their wardrobes.
What garments do men consider acceptable for men
to wear today?

39%

Man bag

36%

Pink or other traditionally girlish colours

38%

Deep V-neck T-shirts

14%

Sarong

But although attitudes are changing, we shouldn’t
expect an immediate transformation of all British
men into perfectly groomed, deep V wearers.
Alongside the growing acceptance of a more feminine
masculinity, there remains a significant proportion
of British men who aren’t as liberal: a third say
it is not acceptable for men to wear any of these
items of clothing.
Gender blurring represents a proliferation of, rather than
a replacement of, existing forms of masculinity. We can
expect to see more variety and experimentation within
male wardrobes.

BRAND IMPLICATIONS:
Brands must recognise the widening spectrum
of masculinity and work to celebrate male consumers
who choose to be different. This is precisely the point
that Casey Legler makes in her discussion of gender
(see p.6); she hopes that by breaking the rigid
dichotomous mould, she might help to shift perceptions.

12%

Figure shapers
like Spanx

(base: all men)
The rise of the male shopaholic: Men now shopping more than twice
	 a week and spending £1,000 on fashion each year, Daily Mail, 9 Oct 2013

5	

10

11
BODY IMAGE: TRIM TORSOS
For some of our male respondents, staying in shape
can be a source of anxiety, on a par with their efforts
to balance work and family. While many worries derive
from a particular lifestage – dating or parenting, for example
– keeping in shape is an anxiety that all men share, even
if it is more dominant amongst our younger respondents.
To what extent do the following make you feel anxious?

When it comes to appearance, concerns centre
predominantly around weight and shape: beer bellies,
unsatisfactory torsos and love handles. The more
commonplace visibility of fit, strong bodies that are
groomed to perfection on TV and in advertising has
doubtlessly contributed to greater stress around men’s
body image, and heightened expectations from the ladies.

Men’s appearance anxieties

11%
Height
43%

Keeping my
physique in shape

42%

Balancing the demands
of work and family

37%

Being a
committed parent

Beer belly
41%

31%
‘Man
boobs’
31%
Unsatisfactory abs

32%

Fulfilling household
responsibilities

28%

Navigating the
rules of dating
(base: all men)

12

27%
Love
handles

27%

Looking stylish
and well-groomed
(base: all men)

13
THE MAN IN THE MIRROR:
MALE GROOMING

% of men who think waxing/hair removal
is acceptable today

Male waxing and grooming appears (unsurprisingly)
to be a generationally-driven trend. Depilation and waxing
are an acceptable part of the grooming routine for
18-34s, who exhibit greater concern about hirsuteness
than older men.

% of men who are anxious about excessive hairiness
43% - Gen Y

30% - Gen X

21% - Boomers

% of men who think brow waxing is acceptable today

25% - Gen Y

17% - Gen X

9% - Boomers

23% - Gen Y

14

11% - Gen X

4% - Boomers

15
‘Man-scaping’ is a phrase used with increasing frequency
after P&G promoted the idea through their ‘What Women
Want’ campaign. Having found that 49% of British men
shave below the neck, the company launched a series
of online videos offering ‘man-scaping’ shaving tips.6

This trend for more traditional male grooming is reflected
in the recent proliferation of facial hair, underlining
the point that we are witnessing a diversification of looks,
not the replacement of one by another.

At the same time, the demand for male waxing in the
UK has risen 56% in a year, according to a recent survey
by beauty website Wahanda.7 Research from The Skin
Health Alliance found that 32% of British men employ hair
removal techniques on their nether regions.8 There has
even been a small increase in ‘Man-zilians’ (male version
of the ‘Brazilian’ – the ‘almost everything off’ female
waxing treatment).7
‘Pejazzle’: the newly adopted term for sparkling
up a man’s nether regions; male version of
a ‘vajazzle’, a cosmetic treatment made famous
by structured UK reality TV show, ‘The Only Way
is Essex’, whose perma-tanned, heterosexual male
cast members have demonstrated that men
can go to extreme levels of preening, but still
be masculine and attract a date.

As a counterpoint to all the waxing and pejazzling,
we’ve seen brands tapping into more aggressive and
‘machismo’ aesthetics and messaging: Old Spice wants
you to ‘smell like a MAN, man’, Bulldog skincare says
it is ‘man’s best friend’, and Wingman’s multi-purpose
toiletries are designed ‘for the real man in all of us’.
Body shaving looms as opportunity for P&G Financial Times, July 2013
	Wahanda’s male waxing report shows City boys mean business, Wahanda.com, 1 Oct 2013
8	‘Bare down there’ trend hits men, Skin Health Alliance, 8 Jan 2013
6	

“You can’t avoid the macro
picture: men are shaving less
but styling more”
Will King, Founder of King of Shaves 9

This may seem paradoxical but the crux of the matter
is that it’s not a choice between ‘macho’ or ‘feminine’.
It’s about putting in the time and effort to look good,
whatever your style might be.
BRAND IMPLICATIONS:
Increasing interest in grooming amongst the younger
generation, coupled with an almost carte blanche
to express yourself however you wish, no matter what
gender or sexual preference, means that whilst turbocharged ‘machismo’ aesthetics may be in fashion
right now, brands need to consider the wider range
of potential aesthetic definitions of modern masculinity
when it comes to grooming.

Focus on male grooming: the smelly hippy’s back, The Grocer, 3 Aug 2013

9	

7

16

17
BEAUTY & THE BLOKE

What do men consider acceptable for men?

Ancient Egyptian and Elizabethan gentlemen knew more
than a thing or two about make-up, but in our lifetime,
beauty products and procedures have traditionally been
the domain of women.
Yet in this more experimental age, men and make-up
are converging together once again. Attitudes towards
men’s use of beauty products are increasingly liberal.

55%

Skin Care

34%

Lip Balm

21%

Facials

Whilst Boots the Chemist has been offering make-up
tips and tutorials for men for at least the past five years,
Debenhams reported an increased spend by men
of 24% on male grooming products in 2013 vs. 2012.
International fashion designers
Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs both
launched make-up ranges for
men in 2013. The Marc Jacobs
“Boy Tested, Girl Approved”
collection includes concealer,
brow gel and lip balm, and
is aimed at men who are not
ashamed of being seen to take
care of their appearances.

25%

19%

Fake Tan

12%

Bronzer

10%

Foundation

of all men are
comfortable
with ‘man-icures’

For the average man, male make-up is less about rock star
eyeliner and more about disguising blemishes and making
himself look fresher.

9%

Concealer

9%

Nail Varnish

7%

Eye Liner

(base: all men)

18

19
“It is no longer taboo for men
to wear beauty products. There
is a very masculine approach
to it, helping you to look and feel
revived after a late night or a
long winter, for a job interview
or date. There is a way for men
to wear it and just look groomed
and healthy rather than made up.”

UNDER THE SKIN:
THE INNER MAN

Charlotte Tilbury, celebrity make-up artist 10

BRAND IMPLICATIONS:
In order to be ‘their best selves’, it is becoming more
common for men to openly enhance rather than change
themselves through cosmetics. Men will be looking for
brands and products that help them achieve their unique
‘best self’ in a discreet, aspirational and non-judgmental way.

Charlotte Tilbury’s modern make-over for men,
	 The Telegraph, 17 Apr 2013

10

20

21
THE END OF MEN?
Thus far, we have focused on exterior grooming and
appearance. It’s now time to look deeper and get under
the skin of the British man.
The traditional role of the male in the home and in society
is being subverted. 40% of women now earn more
than their partners.11 And there was a 65% increase
in female directorships in FTSE 100 companies between
2010 and 2013.12 So men are no longer necessarily head
of the household, or the office.
The media would have us believe that there is major
momentum behind women at the moment, so where
does this leave the modern man? Attitudes reveal
some discomfort amongst significant numbers of men
with their changing role and what is expectations of them.

37%

“Men can’t be
‘men’ anymore”

49%

“My idea of what
it means to be
a man is no longer
widely accepted
in society”

49%

“Traditional male
attributes are
frowned upon
in today’s society”

(base: all men)
How four in 10 women earn more than their partner and are challenging
		traditional role of men as main breadwinner, Daily Mail, 19 July 2013
12	Gov.uk, Women on Boards: Two Years On press release, April 2013
11 	

22

23
In recent years, we have seen the rise of softer, more
feminine values – in the workplace and in society
as a whole (see p.32).

“The future belongs to those
of us, female or male, who
can adopt and embrace the
feminine archetype.”
John Hagel, co-founder of the Deloitte Center
for the Edge 13

Harder today than 30 years ago

56%

53%

42%

Living up to
society’s expectations

Succeeding
professionally

Being a
good father

(base: all men)

Hand in hand with feeling that their place in society is
changing, 39% of men feel that there aren’t many opportunities to do ‘guy stuff’ these days, though this sentiment
is admittedly expressed more strongly by younger men.
I feel like there aren’t many opportunities to do
‘guy stuff’ today

Traditionally male attributes such as physical strength,
power, and dominance may be less desirable or useful
today. Perhaps their demise is why 70% of men feel less
dominant in society.
What’s more, over half of men (53%) think that life
in general is harder for them too, compared to thirty
years ago.

55%

36%

30%

Gen Y Men

Gen X Men

Boomer Men

Perhaps our older respondents feel less of a need to carve
out this manly space, or it could be that they just don’t
feel as inhibited by society as their younger counterparts.
Regardless, what all these results demonstrate is that
there is a significant cohort of men for whom the collapse
of our traditional understanding of gender is resulting
in a questioning of identity.

EVE-olution: The Man Cave, Faith Popcorn, April 30 2012

13	

24

25
Professor Jenny Graves from the University of Canberra
in Australia has even asserted that men are on the road
to extinction (see right).14 Whilst this may be an extreme
prediction, it underlines the sense of impotence that
men may be experiencing as the concept of masculinity
is being broken down and reconfigured.
Closer to home, as the UK has moved away from primary
industry and into a service economy, the need for big,
strong men to carry out manual labour has collapsed.
In response, we are seeing more opportunities for outlets
of traditional masculinity, such as game shooting weekends,
meat butchering courses, and physical challenges such
as Iron Man and Tough Mudder.
Take Wilderness Collective for example, a company that
curates ‘legendary adventures for men’, creating a sense
of comradeship whilst challenging participants physically
and mentally with adrenaline pumping excursions.15
And during the London Collections: Men shows,
Topman took over the Old Crown Pub in London
to create a hangout for men’s fashion journalists which
felt like an honest, old school men’s drinking club.16

The end of men? Expert predicts males will be extinct in five million years, Daily Mail, 2 Apr 2013
wildernesscollective.com
Topman takes over pub for men’s show, LS:N Global, 17 June 2013

“You need a Y chromosome to be
male… three hundred million years
ago the Y chromosome had about
1,400 genes on it, and now it’s only
got 45 left, so at this rate we’re
going to run out of genes on the
Y chromosome in about five
million years. The Y chromosome
is dying and the big question
is what happens then.”
Professor Jenny Graves, University of Canberra

BRAND IMPLICATIONS:
Although the gender lines are blurring and becoming
less important in defining people, men still need a space
they can call their own. Male friendships are important
as they give men the sense of support and community
that they need. Brands should seek modern ways
to facilitate these male communities, give men the
space to be men and to have a place in their lives where
women are not.

14	
15	

16	

26

27
DEFINITIONS OF MEN:
CHIVALRY IS NOT DEAD

“Men’s standards have slipped
so far over recent years that
any offer of chivalry from
a gentleman knocks a woman
off their guard and is viewed
with outright suspicion.”

Gender is a two-part construct; one does not exist
in isolation, but in relation to the other. An important
element of masculinity is how men relate to, and exist
in the context of, women. As men re-assess the definition
of their gender, their behaviour towards women is
changing too.
For instance, chivalry has long been considered the
hallmark of a gentleman. Yet half the population now
feel that demonstrating chivalry may not go down well.

‘Men can no longer appear chivalrous without
appearing sexist’

Mark Hall, Gentleman Creation Officer
for socked.co.uk17

55%

46%

Both men and women struggle to define what is
appropriate in today’s muddied waters of gender equality
and strict political correctness. The chart overleaf shows
that many men feel that traditional behaviours such
as holding doors open and letting women pass through
them first are still relevant, but don’t always action them.
This could be caused by fear of causing insult, as our
previous data point suggests.

17	

28

Men’s chivalrous acts now make women suspicious, Daily Mail, 15 Jan 2013

29
TRADITIONAL BEHAVIOURS:
THE CONSIDERATION GAP

“I almost always let a woman exit or enter a door first”

Behaviours men consider relevant/do
Holding the door
open for women

83%
74%

Paying for
first date

60%
66%

Letting women exit
or enter a door first

77%
68%

Paying for
most dates

44%
50%

Walking on the ‘outside’ of
a woman when on the street

50%
44%

Pulling out a chair
for a woman

64%
39%

Making the
first move

30%
24%

Ordering for a woman
when out at a restaurant

21%
11%

Consider Still Relevant

Almost Always Do

(base: all men)

This contradiction is especially evident amongst younger
men; the percentage difference between what they find
relevant and what they do is greatest amongst Gen Y
(see chart on right).
This generational variance indicates that most men are
conscious of being polite, but older men are less nervous
about the interpretations of their actions.
30

Boomer Men - 81%

Gen Y Men - 44%

“I think it is still relevant to let a woman exit or enter
a door first”

Boomer Men - 83%

Gen Y Men - 67%

BRAND IMPLICATIONS:
We can see that men want to be polite and ‘chivalrous’,
but that it is a dying tradition as young men are too
nervous about being seen as sexist. Perhaps it is time
that chivalry is redefined as kindness and good manners
between sexes, rather than holding different genders
to different standards.
31
MALE PRIDE: THE PROVIDER
Society as a whole is rejecting macho characteristics
and values. According to GfK Roper, the most important
values in the UK in 2013 were ‘protecting the family’ and
‘stable personal relationships’, whilst the least important
ones were ‘status’ and ‘power’. We are not saying that
these values are exclusively male or female, but the former
two have traditionally been considered more feminine,
and the latter two more masculine.18
This could be an indication that society is shifting towards
a more female-centered value system.

Perhaps the playing field is levelling, meaning that women
will no longer have to play by men’s rules to get ahead,
as Sheryl Sandberg advocates in ‘Lean In’. In fact men may
have to tap into female values more in order to succeed
as time goes on (see quote from John Hagel, p.13).
Our data on sources of male pride mirrors these shifts.
Key sources of pride for men now reflect a blend
of traditional and modern responsibilities. Family
concerns top the list, whilst cooking and decorating,
stereotypically feminine activities, sit alongside DIY
and financial provision. But modern men are proud
to do it all. Such diversity underlines this shift towards
the more liberal translation of masculinity
we are seeing.

Top Sources of Pride for Men

84%

Provide for
family financially

77%

Decorate
your home
18

32

80%

78%

Raise children

Complete
DIY projects

75%

74%

Fix tech issues

Cook

71%

Household chores

62%

Expressing emotion

71%

Opening doors/
pulling out chairs

61%

Carrying
heavy items

69%

Care of appearance

61%

Taking interest
in sports

GFK Roper, 2013
33
SIGNALS OF MASCULINITY:
EMOTIONAL CAPABILITY
BRAND IMPLICATIONS:
For men of the future, their sense of pride will come
from being a well-rounded, responsible person who can
provide for those who need him – the ‘gender tradition’
of the task will matter less, especially as society comes
to place equal emphasis on what used to be considered
‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’ values. In fact, they may
eventually become de-gendered altogether.

Our data shows that the definitive characteristics of
a modern man are those that demonstrate who he
is on the inside – his manners, values, integrity, capability
for family provision and emotional supportiveness.
External or learned characteristics such as physical
capability, money and looks score less highly, and
traditionally ‘male’ accomplishments and material
possessions score even lower still.

71%

of men believe
that the things that
define masculinity
have changed

34

43%

of men agree
that men are more
well-rounded than
they were thirty
years ago

35
WHAT DEFINES MEN TODAY
Emotional Capability

Physical Traits

Being a ‘gentleman’

67%

Handyman skills

37%

Keeping his word

58%

Physical strength

27%

His personal values

57%

His attractiveness

23%

His knowledge/intelligence

53%

His ability to make decisions

50%

Parenting abilities

49%

Emotional support for family

46%

His life experiences

42%

Comfort with his feminine side

22%

(base: all men)

All the bastions of hyper-masculinity that so characterised
the 1980s have dropped to the bottom of the list:
power in the workplace (20%), the car he drives (18%),
the attractiveness of his significant other (16%) and his
number of sexual conquests (8%).

(base: all men)

BRAND IMPLICATIONS:

Traditional Male Accomplishments
Financial support for family

51%

Career success

38%

How much money he makes

25%

Ability to bond over sports

20%

Power in the workplace

20%

The car he drives

18%

Navigational skills

18%

Attractiveness of significant other

16%

What he eats

10%

If the modern man feels more defined by his capability
for emotion and support than his physical strength, then
brands must acknowledge this. The cues of masculinity
are changing, and men will respond to communications
that talk to who he is on the inside, as opposed to what
car he drives or how much money he earns.

(base: all men)

36

37
FAMILY GUY
Men’s priorities reflect the focus on parenthood and family
values that we have touched on over the previous few
pages. For instance, being married or in a committed
relationship is more important to our male respondents
(85%) than female (79%).
Meanwhile, being a good family man who shares
responsibility is of great importance, so men would
relish having more time to play this part. According
to a survey, 79% of men aged between 25 and 34 would
consider taking increased paternity leave, which could
be up to a year once new rules come into action in 2015.19

77%

40%

What percentage of the childcare responsibilities
would you say you personally handle?

Interestingly, more young men think that they share
an equal load of the childcare responsibilities. Bearing
in mind that this is self-assessed, hands-on fatherhood
seems more likely to be in practice amongst younger
fathers, demonstrating the growing prevalence of the
more openly emotional and caring male.

Gen Y Men %

Gen X Men %

10%

1%

0%

3%

20%

4%

4%

3%

30%

29%

17%

29%

22%

21%

26%

50%

of men would
choose more time
with the family
above all else

Total Men

40%

of men say that
being a parent
is important
to them

% of childcare
carried out

26%

29%

23%

60%

8%

17%

3%

70%

4%

8%

3%

80%

1%

0%

3%

90%

3%

4%

3%

100%

1%

0%

3%

Survey by Allen & Overy, Financial Times, March 2013

19	

38

39
For years, women who juggle a demanding job, get the
kids to their after-school clubs, and still manage to get
their legs waxed have been heralded as ‘superwomen’.
Our data reveals that 42% of men feel anxious about
balancing the demands of work and family. Perhaps men
are starting to feel a similar pressure to do, and have, it all.

MEN WHOM MEN ADMIRE
The men that men admire give us some final clues about
how men would like to be and be seen today. Here’s our
top ten.

62%

Men are embracing
their role as fathers

believe they
are mostly on top
of it and doing
a decent job

BRAND IMPLICATIONS:
A new generation of hands-on, emotionally available
family men is emerging. They take great pride in sharing
an increasingly equal portion of family responsibilities.
We may currently see more household purchasing power
in the hands of women, but the future is going to see an
even greater balance of responsibility weighted towards
men. Brands must seek to engage and support fathers too.

40

		

1. David Beckham – 37%

Becks embodies many of the aspirational characteristics
of the modern man we have explored. He is a hands-on
family man with a successful career, throughout which
he has demonstrated commitment and integrity. He
is also a well-groomed, fashion pioneer, but one who
is nonetheless comfortable with his wife taking centre
stage. A truly modern man.

		

2. Bill Gates – 35%

Bill Gates represents the pinnacle of professional success,
despite coming across as a fairly normal chap. Popular
for his philanthropy, Gates is phenomenally rich, having
overcome the failure of his first business. He represents
hard work and determination.

41
3. Sean Connery – 35%

Immortalised as one of Britain’s best-loved Bonds,
Sean Connery epitomises the gentlemanly behaviour,
‘confidence in a crisis’ and impeccably well-groomed
characteristics that men seek to achieve today.

		
4. Barack Obama – 32%
Obama manages his responsibilities with apparent ease
and confidence. His election as the USA’s first black
president symbolises career achievement and commitment
to personal values, against all odds. Clearly a balanced
family man, he is comfortable sharing the spotlight with
his wife and children.

		

Gracious, gentlemanly, charming and a champion, Federer
was named the second most respected man in the world
in 2011, after Nelson Mandela.

		

5. Usain Bolt – 31%

7. Daniel Craig – 25%

The second Bond in our top ten, Craig is suave,
sophisticated but tough – and a winner with
the ladies to boot.

		

		

6. Roger Federer – 30 %

8. Bruce Willis – 22%

The ultimate action hero with a streak of cool. Willis
is the quintessentially tough guy, but with a twinkle
in his eye and suggestion of a softer side.

Usain Bolt is at the top of his game, peerless in his
success but totally likeable and charismatic with it.
Famed for pre-race chicken nuggets and slowing down
before the tape, Bolt is the champion who doesn’t seem
to try too hard.
42

43
THE FINAL WORD:
MARKETING TO MEN
		

9. Frank Sinatra – 20%

Dapper, smooth, with a reputation for fast living and
an air of authority, the Chairman of the Board represents
an old-fashioned gentleman with some serious swagger.

		

10. Jamie Oliver – 19%

The omnipresent Oliver can seemingly do no wrong,
with a successful business empire, TV career and some
political clout too. What’s more, he’s regarded as a loving
family man – despite the fact he must work seventeen
hours a day. How does he find the time?

What does this list tell us about men’s aspirations? Well,
the one thing they have in common is that they have very
little in common. The list is remarkably diverse. It features
sports stars, politicians, actors, fathers, husbands, old and
young men, action heroes, boffins, style icons and geeks.
In fact, this list really reflects the multiplicity of options
for men. It supports the fact that men in Britain today
can be whatever sort of man they please, and be admired
for it. Modern men, it seems, are much more complex
than the media currently suggests.
44

45
The Male Chameleon

As we have seen, masculinity now plays out in a multiplicity
of ways. No longer just the hunter-gatherer, British boys
are exploring new roles, lifestyles and looks in different
areas of their lives. Nor are they as one-dimensional as
the media would often have us believe. Just like women,
they juggle the roles of parent, partner, provider, worker
and one of the boys. Brands need to acknowledge and
reflect their complexity. On the flipside, a proliferation
of options may be daunting and lead to choice paralysis
for those men who were comfortable following tradition.
Brands playing in a male space can find ways to support
those men who feel overwhelmed by choice, help them
navigate all the options they face, and ultimately help them
become the best version of the man they want to be.

are important to them (see the Robinson’s advert ‘Pals’
for a great example). But this does not mean they are
feminised either. Bear in mind too that men still need
to be men, that they need time and space to foster their
male friendships and enjoy their shared interests. Take
for instance, Age UK’s ‘Men in Sheds’ campaign, which
seeks to bring together isolated older men in a space
where they feel comfortable. Do not underestimate
the importance of these man-only respites.

		Welcome the New Consumer: Men

		

Respect Men’s Emotional Intelligence

The cues of masculinity have been redefined in today’s
post-recessionary, values-based culture. Manhood
has become a more rounded concept, comprising
emotional intelligence, a core role in the household
as a family man who values relationships, and an emphasis
on who you are, not what you have. So recognise
that men are in touch with their emotions too,
and that their personal and family relationships
46

No doubt you have heard that women hold the pursestrings, that they control 80% of household decisions.
Many products and services are consequently tailored
to appeal to women and mums. Are they missing a trick?
Last year JWT flagged up ‘Dads in the Aisles’ as one
of our Things to Watch for 2013. More and more men
are venturing boldly into new territories – the supermarket,
the grooming parlour, the cosmetic counter, the fashion
retailer. Brands will need to take the male perspective
into account, repurposing their services, spaces, tools
and communications to appeal to them and acknowledging
their changing lifestyles. This does not mean heavyhanded emphasis on gender, but simply ensuring that
their approach is inclusive, welcoming and informative.
47
For more information contact:
Marie Stafford
Planning Foresight Director
JWT London
1 Knightsbridge Green
London SW1X 7NW
+44 (0) 207 656 7000
marie.stafford@jwt.com

48

49
#ideaswithintelligence

50

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Masculinity & Modernity

  • 1. MASCULINITY & MODERNITY: INVESTIGATING THE MEN OF BRITAIN TODAY Planning Foresight February 2014 1
  • 2. CONTENTS FOREWORD INTRODUCTION: GENDER BLURRING PICTURE PERFECT: THE OUTER MAN • SELF-IMAGE: APPEARANCE ANXIETY • STYLE: ANYTHING GOES • BODY IMAGE: TRIM TORSOS • THE MAN IN THE MIRROR: MALE GROOMING • BEAUTY & THE BLOKE UNDER THE SKIN: THE INNER MAN • THE END OF MEN? • DEFINITIONS OF MEN: CHIVALRY IS NOT DEAD • MALE PRIDE: THE PROVIDER Planning Foresight is JWT London’s dedicated research and insight team. Led by Marie Stafford, an expert in consumer insight, trends and quantitative analysis, Planning Foresight is the creativity behind the creativity at JWT. The team powers the agency’s thinking, making sense of changes in culture and society, bolstering strategy and delivering a shot of thought-provoking inspiration. • SIGNALS OF MASCULINITY: EMOTIONAL CAPABILITY • FAMILY GUY • MEN WHOM MEN ADMIRE THE FINAL WORD: MARKETING TO MEN 01
  • 3. FOREWORD This isn’t about gender, it’s about acceptance. The framework of understanding we have relied upon to determine what is acceptable or expected of gender is no longer relevant. The codes this framework was built on are changing rapidly. Today’s men are no longer constrained by these shackles and are freer to choose who they want to be than ever before. to counterbalance this. But whereas a hirsute man would traditionally signify a rugged, chapped-hand breed of heterosexuality, and a ripped body told people he was gay, the UK now navigates a sea of beards who visit grooming parlours – traditional salons revived for modern men who spend more time in the bathroom than their wives – and a generation of teenage girls who expect boys to dress like a pop star and sport a six pack. With this in mind, JWT launched a major research initiative to get to the heart of what it means to be a man in today’s fluid gender landscape. What is masculinity? How does it relate to femininity? And how are men feeling about and coping with this rapidly shifting ground? This isn’t about feminine-masculinity, or masculinefemininity for that matter – this is a conversation about acceptance, and the availability of a carte blanche to express yourself in whatever way you choose. There are ripe opportunities here for brands to communicate with men in new and meaningful ways. The modern man has moved beyond defining himself by the traditional hallmarks of masculinity such as strength, power and financial provision. More important now are his values and his capability for emotional support and family provision. This shift is occurring in part as a result of the changing dynamic between the genders. And men seem to be struggling with how to navigate these uncharted waters. Are brands offering men sufficient support? A key shift that we’ve observed is a growing acceptance of men prioritising their appearance. Not only can they take care of their looks without judgement, there is a huge diversity of looks men can adopt. For instance, waxed chests and tight torsos abound in the media, whilst some men have engineered a more virile look 02 NOTE: Generational groups used throughout this report are defined as follows: • Gen Y: Age 18-34 • Gen X: Age 35-47 • Boomers: Age 48+ JWT surveyed 500 British consumers in summer 2013. 03
  • 4. INTRODUCTION: GENDER BLURRING Traditional concepts of gender are morphing, their boundaries relaxing and shapes becoming less defined. This is changing society’s expectations of men, as well as what they expect for themselves. 74% of all adults agree that gender doesn’t define a person as much as it used to 04 78% of all adults agree that men and women don’t need to conform to traditional roles and behaviours Some brands are starting to respond to this more fluid mind-set with the development of gender-agnostic products and services. In retail for instance, Harrods Toy Kingdom re-opened last year, displaying products organised by theme rather than gender, and Calvin Klein recently launched a make-up range designed for use by both men and women. Centuries-old institutions are changing too. Following a campaign from transgender and LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender) representatives, the University of Cambridge has opted for a new gender-neutral dress code for its graduation ceremonies. In effect, the change means that men could wear skirts for graduation – and women suits. The fashion industry is highlighting the potential of gender ambiguity by casting androgynous models in genderbending roles. Male model Andrej Pejić models for both men and womenswear whilst Ford Models’ male division signed female model Casey Legler to its books last year: the first female menswear model. 05
  • 5. “If images of me out there in the world make it that much easier for another kid, and the kids around them or their parents, to get on with the more important business of figuring out who they are and how they can uniquely contribute to the stream of life, then my job is done.” PICTURE PERFECT: THE OUTER MAN Casey Legler, female menswear model 1 Society now presents men with an ever-widening array of acceptable lifestyle options and possibilities. Almost anything goes, and as a consequence, men are confronted by a new battery of decisions to make: to wax or not to wax? Full-time employee or full-time father? While their female counterparts have been navigating these questions for a couple of generations, for many men, it’s still a novel and indeed, daunting experience. 1 I’m a woman who models men’s clothes. But this isn’t about gender, The Guardian, 1 Nov 2013 06 07
  • 6. SELF-IMAGE: APPEARANCE ANXIETY “I’m not someone who’ll take my top off on the beach. I do seriously have issues, I think. [My wife] thinks I’m getting so skinny, but I look at myself and think I’m getting fat. It’s the way the Hollywood [ideal] is thrown at you… to be Ryan Gosling with a perfect six-pack.” Sam Claflin, Hollywood actor 2 The role of the media in creating unhealthy ideals of women’s beauty has been a hot topic for decades. However, men now feel the same pressure as women to look good. In fact, over three quarters of our male respondents agree that they feel obliged to present a polished exterior. Manorexia’ and Hollywood’s hunger games, The Guardian, 17 Nov 2013 ’ 2 80% 78% 76% These days, there’s more pressure than in the past for men to dress well and be well-groomed These days, there is as much pressure on men to stay in shape/ have a good body as there is on women These days, there is as much pressure on men to dress well and be well-groomed as there is on women (base: all men) And the lengths they will go to to achieve their desired appearance are growing more extreme: men now account for 10% of cosmetic surgery procedures in the UK 3, something that would have been almost unimaginable a decade ago. In 2012, the most popular surgeries for men were nose jobs (952 procedures), eyelid surgery (758 procedures) and breast reductions (642 procedures)4. Men are clearly jumping on the surgical bandwagon to correct the parts of their body that can’t be fixed with a trip to the gym. BRAND IMPLICATIONS: Men are increasingly conscious of the way they look, dress and groom themselves. It will become increasingly important for brands to offer men easily accessible options for putting their best foot forward – without contributing to the pressure they feel. ttitudes towards cosmetic surgery, Mintel, May 2013 A he Guardian Datablog, January 2013 T 3 4 08 09
  • 7. STYLE: ANYTHING GOES Whilst there is more pressure to look good, the rules around achieving this are more relaxed. To ‘take care of yourself’ now can manifest itself in diverse ways, thanks to a new, more liberal environment. A recent survey by The Westfield Group shows that the average man spends £988 a year on clothes, shoes and accessories and is now browsing or buying clothes on average two and half times per week.5 Men are also starting to embrace traditionally ‘feminine’ items of clothing as part of their wardrobes. What garments do men consider acceptable for men to wear today? 39% Man bag 36% Pink or other traditionally girlish colours 38% Deep V-neck T-shirts 14% Sarong But although attitudes are changing, we shouldn’t expect an immediate transformation of all British men into perfectly groomed, deep V wearers. Alongside the growing acceptance of a more feminine masculinity, there remains a significant proportion of British men who aren’t as liberal: a third say it is not acceptable for men to wear any of these items of clothing. Gender blurring represents a proliferation of, rather than a replacement of, existing forms of masculinity. We can expect to see more variety and experimentation within male wardrobes. BRAND IMPLICATIONS: Brands must recognise the widening spectrum of masculinity and work to celebrate male consumers who choose to be different. This is precisely the point that Casey Legler makes in her discussion of gender (see p.6); she hopes that by breaking the rigid dichotomous mould, she might help to shift perceptions. 12% Figure shapers like Spanx (base: all men) The rise of the male shopaholic: Men now shopping more than twice a week and spending £1,000 on fashion each year, Daily Mail, 9 Oct 2013 5 10 11
  • 8. BODY IMAGE: TRIM TORSOS For some of our male respondents, staying in shape can be a source of anxiety, on a par with their efforts to balance work and family. While many worries derive from a particular lifestage – dating or parenting, for example – keeping in shape is an anxiety that all men share, even if it is more dominant amongst our younger respondents. To what extent do the following make you feel anxious? When it comes to appearance, concerns centre predominantly around weight and shape: beer bellies, unsatisfactory torsos and love handles. The more commonplace visibility of fit, strong bodies that are groomed to perfection on TV and in advertising has doubtlessly contributed to greater stress around men’s body image, and heightened expectations from the ladies. Men’s appearance anxieties 11% Height 43% Keeping my physique in shape 42% Balancing the demands of work and family 37% Being a committed parent Beer belly 41% 31% ‘Man boobs’ 31% Unsatisfactory abs 32% Fulfilling household responsibilities 28% Navigating the rules of dating (base: all men) 12 27% Love handles 27% Looking stylish and well-groomed (base: all men) 13
  • 9. THE MAN IN THE MIRROR: MALE GROOMING % of men who think waxing/hair removal is acceptable today Male waxing and grooming appears (unsurprisingly) to be a generationally-driven trend. Depilation and waxing are an acceptable part of the grooming routine for 18-34s, who exhibit greater concern about hirsuteness than older men. % of men who are anxious about excessive hairiness 43% - Gen Y 30% - Gen X 21% - Boomers % of men who think brow waxing is acceptable today 25% - Gen Y 17% - Gen X 9% - Boomers 23% - Gen Y 14 11% - Gen X 4% - Boomers 15
  • 10. ‘Man-scaping’ is a phrase used with increasing frequency after P&G promoted the idea through their ‘What Women Want’ campaign. Having found that 49% of British men shave below the neck, the company launched a series of online videos offering ‘man-scaping’ shaving tips.6 This trend for more traditional male grooming is reflected in the recent proliferation of facial hair, underlining the point that we are witnessing a diversification of looks, not the replacement of one by another. At the same time, the demand for male waxing in the UK has risen 56% in a year, according to a recent survey by beauty website Wahanda.7 Research from The Skin Health Alliance found that 32% of British men employ hair removal techniques on their nether regions.8 There has even been a small increase in ‘Man-zilians’ (male version of the ‘Brazilian’ – the ‘almost everything off’ female waxing treatment).7 ‘Pejazzle’: the newly adopted term for sparkling up a man’s nether regions; male version of a ‘vajazzle’, a cosmetic treatment made famous by structured UK reality TV show, ‘The Only Way is Essex’, whose perma-tanned, heterosexual male cast members have demonstrated that men can go to extreme levels of preening, but still be masculine and attract a date. As a counterpoint to all the waxing and pejazzling, we’ve seen brands tapping into more aggressive and ‘machismo’ aesthetics and messaging: Old Spice wants you to ‘smell like a MAN, man’, Bulldog skincare says it is ‘man’s best friend’, and Wingman’s multi-purpose toiletries are designed ‘for the real man in all of us’. Body shaving looms as opportunity for P&G Financial Times, July 2013 Wahanda’s male waxing report shows City boys mean business, Wahanda.com, 1 Oct 2013 8 ‘Bare down there’ trend hits men, Skin Health Alliance, 8 Jan 2013 6 “You can’t avoid the macro picture: men are shaving less but styling more” Will King, Founder of King of Shaves 9 This may seem paradoxical but the crux of the matter is that it’s not a choice between ‘macho’ or ‘feminine’. It’s about putting in the time and effort to look good, whatever your style might be. BRAND IMPLICATIONS: Increasing interest in grooming amongst the younger generation, coupled with an almost carte blanche to express yourself however you wish, no matter what gender or sexual preference, means that whilst turbocharged ‘machismo’ aesthetics may be in fashion right now, brands need to consider the wider range of potential aesthetic definitions of modern masculinity when it comes to grooming. Focus on male grooming: the smelly hippy’s back, The Grocer, 3 Aug 2013 9 7 16 17
  • 11. BEAUTY & THE BLOKE What do men consider acceptable for men? Ancient Egyptian and Elizabethan gentlemen knew more than a thing or two about make-up, but in our lifetime, beauty products and procedures have traditionally been the domain of women. Yet in this more experimental age, men and make-up are converging together once again. Attitudes towards men’s use of beauty products are increasingly liberal. 55% Skin Care 34% Lip Balm 21% Facials Whilst Boots the Chemist has been offering make-up tips and tutorials for men for at least the past five years, Debenhams reported an increased spend by men of 24% on male grooming products in 2013 vs. 2012. International fashion designers Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs both launched make-up ranges for men in 2013. The Marc Jacobs “Boy Tested, Girl Approved” collection includes concealer, brow gel and lip balm, and is aimed at men who are not ashamed of being seen to take care of their appearances. 25% 19% Fake Tan 12% Bronzer 10% Foundation of all men are comfortable with ‘man-icures’ For the average man, male make-up is less about rock star eyeliner and more about disguising blemishes and making himself look fresher. 9% Concealer 9% Nail Varnish 7% Eye Liner (base: all men) 18 19
  • 12. “It is no longer taboo for men to wear beauty products. There is a very masculine approach to it, helping you to look and feel revived after a late night or a long winter, for a job interview or date. There is a way for men to wear it and just look groomed and healthy rather than made up.” UNDER THE SKIN: THE INNER MAN Charlotte Tilbury, celebrity make-up artist 10 BRAND IMPLICATIONS: In order to be ‘their best selves’, it is becoming more common for men to openly enhance rather than change themselves through cosmetics. Men will be looking for brands and products that help them achieve their unique ‘best self’ in a discreet, aspirational and non-judgmental way. Charlotte Tilbury’s modern make-over for men, The Telegraph, 17 Apr 2013 10 20 21
  • 13. THE END OF MEN? Thus far, we have focused on exterior grooming and appearance. It’s now time to look deeper and get under the skin of the British man. The traditional role of the male in the home and in society is being subverted. 40% of women now earn more than their partners.11 And there was a 65% increase in female directorships in FTSE 100 companies between 2010 and 2013.12 So men are no longer necessarily head of the household, or the office. The media would have us believe that there is major momentum behind women at the moment, so where does this leave the modern man? Attitudes reveal some discomfort amongst significant numbers of men with their changing role and what is expectations of them. 37% “Men can’t be ‘men’ anymore” 49% “My idea of what it means to be a man is no longer widely accepted in society” 49% “Traditional male attributes are frowned upon in today’s society” (base: all men) How four in 10 women earn more than their partner and are challenging traditional role of men as main breadwinner, Daily Mail, 19 July 2013 12 Gov.uk, Women on Boards: Two Years On press release, April 2013 11 22 23
  • 14. In recent years, we have seen the rise of softer, more feminine values – in the workplace and in society as a whole (see p.32). “The future belongs to those of us, female or male, who can adopt and embrace the feminine archetype.” John Hagel, co-founder of the Deloitte Center for the Edge 13 Harder today than 30 years ago 56% 53% 42% Living up to society’s expectations Succeeding professionally Being a good father (base: all men) Hand in hand with feeling that their place in society is changing, 39% of men feel that there aren’t many opportunities to do ‘guy stuff’ these days, though this sentiment is admittedly expressed more strongly by younger men. I feel like there aren’t many opportunities to do ‘guy stuff’ today Traditionally male attributes such as physical strength, power, and dominance may be less desirable or useful today. Perhaps their demise is why 70% of men feel less dominant in society. What’s more, over half of men (53%) think that life in general is harder for them too, compared to thirty years ago. 55% 36% 30% Gen Y Men Gen X Men Boomer Men Perhaps our older respondents feel less of a need to carve out this manly space, or it could be that they just don’t feel as inhibited by society as their younger counterparts. Regardless, what all these results demonstrate is that there is a significant cohort of men for whom the collapse of our traditional understanding of gender is resulting in a questioning of identity. EVE-olution: The Man Cave, Faith Popcorn, April 30 2012 13 24 25
  • 15. Professor Jenny Graves from the University of Canberra in Australia has even asserted that men are on the road to extinction (see right).14 Whilst this may be an extreme prediction, it underlines the sense of impotence that men may be experiencing as the concept of masculinity is being broken down and reconfigured. Closer to home, as the UK has moved away from primary industry and into a service economy, the need for big, strong men to carry out manual labour has collapsed. In response, we are seeing more opportunities for outlets of traditional masculinity, such as game shooting weekends, meat butchering courses, and physical challenges such as Iron Man and Tough Mudder. Take Wilderness Collective for example, a company that curates ‘legendary adventures for men’, creating a sense of comradeship whilst challenging participants physically and mentally with adrenaline pumping excursions.15 And during the London Collections: Men shows, Topman took over the Old Crown Pub in London to create a hangout for men’s fashion journalists which felt like an honest, old school men’s drinking club.16 The end of men? Expert predicts males will be extinct in five million years, Daily Mail, 2 Apr 2013 wildernesscollective.com Topman takes over pub for men’s show, LS:N Global, 17 June 2013 “You need a Y chromosome to be male… three hundred million years ago the Y chromosome had about 1,400 genes on it, and now it’s only got 45 left, so at this rate we’re going to run out of genes on the Y chromosome in about five million years. The Y chromosome is dying and the big question is what happens then.” Professor Jenny Graves, University of Canberra BRAND IMPLICATIONS: Although the gender lines are blurring and becoming less important in defining people, men still need a space they can call their own. Male friendships are important as they give men the sense of support and community that they need. Brands should seek modern ways to facilitate these male communities, give men the space to be men and to have a place in their lives where women are not. 14 15 16 26 27
  • 16. DEFINITIONS OF MEN: CHIVALRY IS NOT DEAD “Men’s standards have slipped so far over recent years that any offer of chivalry from a gentleman knocks a woman off their guard and is viewed with outright suspicion.” Gender is a two-part construct; one does not exist in isolation, but in relation to the other. An important element of masculinity is how men relate to, and exist in the context of, women. As men re-assess the definition of their gender, their behaviour towards women is changing too. For instance, chivalry has long been considered the hallmark of a gentleman. Yet half the population now feel that demonstrating chivalry may not go down well. ‘Men can no longer appear chivalrous without appearing sexist’ Mark Hall, Gentleman Creation Officer for socked.co.uk17 55% 46% Both men and women struggle to define what is appropriate in today’s muddied waters of gender equality and strict political correctness. The chart overleaf shows that many men feel that traditional behaviours such as holding doors open and letting women pass through them first are still relevant, but don’t always action them. This could be caused by fear of causing insult, as our previous data point suggests. 17 28 Men’s chivalrous acts now make women suspicious, Daily Mail, 15 Jan 2013 29
  • 17. TRADITIONAL BEHAVIOURS: THE CONSIDERATION GAP “I almost always let a woman exit or enter a door first” Behaviours men consider relevant/do Holding the door open for women 83% 74% Paying for first date 60% 66% Letting women exit or enter a door first 77% 68% Paying for most dates 44% 50% Walking on the ‘outside’ of a woman when on the street 50% 44% Pulling out a chair for a woman 64% 39% Making the first move 30% 24% Ordering for a woman when out at a restaurant 21% 11% Consider Still Relevant Almost Always Do (base: all men) This contradiction is especially evident amongst younger men; the percentage difference between what they find relevant and what they do is greatest amongst Gen Y (see chart on right). This generational variance indicates that most men are conscious of being polite, but older men are less nervous about the interpretations of their actions. 30 Boomer Men - 81% Gen Y Men - 44% “I think it is still relevant to let a woman exit or enter a door first” Boomer Men - 83% Gen Y Men - 67% BRAND IMPLICATIONS: We can see that men want to be polite and ‘chivalrous’, but that it is a dying tradition as young men are too nervous about being seen as sexist. Perhaps it is time that chivalry is redefined as kindness and good manners between sexes, rather than holding different genders to different standards. 31
  • 18. MALE PRIDE: THE PROVIDER Society as a whole is rejecting macho characteristics and values. According to GfK Roper, the most important values in the UK in 2013 were ‘protecting the family’ and ‘stable personal relationships’, whilst the least important ones were ‘status’ and ‘power’. We are not saying that these values are exclusively male or female, but the former two have traditionally been considered more feminine, and the latter two more masculine.18 This could be an indication that society is shifting towards a more female-centered value system. Perhaps the playing field is levelling, meaning that women will no longer have to play by men’s rules to get ahead, as Sheryl Sandberg advocates in ‘Lean In’. In fact men may have to tap into female values more in order to succeed as time goes on (see quote from John Hagel, p.13). Our data on sources of male pride mirrors these shifts. Key sources of pride for men now reflect a blend of traditional and modern responsibilities. Family concerns top the list, whilst cooking and decorating, stereotypically feminine activities, sit alongside DIY and financial provision. But modern men are proud to do it all. Such diversity underlines this shift towards the more liberal translation of masculinity we are seeing. Top Sources of Pride for Men 84% Provide for family financially 77% Decorate your home 18 32 80% 78% Raise children Complete DIY projects 75% 74% Fix tech issues Cook 71% Household chores 62% Expressing emotion 71% Opening doors/ pulling out chairs 61% Carrying heavy items 69% Care of appearance 61% Taking interest in sports GFK Roper, 2013 33
  • 19. SIGNALS OF MASCULINITY: EMOTIONAL CAPABILITY BRAND IMPLICATIONS: For men of the future, their sense of pride will come from being a well-rounded, responsible person who can provide for those who need him – the ‘gender tradition’ of the task will matter less, especially as society comes to place equal emphasis on what used to be considered ‘masculine’ and ‘feminine’ values. In fact, they may eventually become de-gendered altogether. Our data shows that the definitive characteristics of a modern man are those that demonstrate who he is on the inside – his manners, values, integrity, capability for family provision and emotional supportiveness. External or learned characteristics such as physical capability, money and looks score less highly, and traditionally ‘male’ accomplishments and material possessions score even lower still. 71% of men believe that the things that define masculinity have changed 34 43% of men agree that men are more well-rounded than they were thirty years ago 35
  • 20. WHAT DEFINES MEN TODAY Emotional Capability Physical Traits Being a ‘gentleman’ 67% Handyman skills 37% Keeping his word 58% Physical strength 27% His personal values 57% His attractiveness 23% His knowledge/intelligence 53% His ability to make decisions 50% Parenting abilities 49% Emotional support for family 46% His life experiences 42% Comfort with his feminine side 22% (base: all men) All the bastions of hyper-masculinity that so characterised the 1980s have dropped to the bottom of the list: power in the workplace (20%), the car he drives (18%), the attractiveness of his significant other (16%) and his number of sexual conquests (8%). (base: all men) BRAND IMPLICATIONS: Traditional Male Accomplishments Financial support for family 51% Career success 38% How much money he makes 25% Ability to bond over sports 20% Power in the workplace 20% The car he drives 18% Navigational skills 18% Attractiveness of significant other 16% What he eats 10% If the modern man feels more defined by his capability for emotion and support than his physical strength, then brands must acknowledge this. The cues of masculinity are changing, and men will respond to communications that talk to who he is on the inside, as opposed to what car he drives or how much money he earns. (base: all men) 36 37
  • 21. FAMILY GUY Men’s priorities reflect the focus on parenthood and family values that we have touched on over the previous few pages. For instance, being married or in a committed relationship is more important to our male respondents (85%) than female (79%). Meanwhile, being a good family man who shares responsibility is of great importance, so men would relish having more time to play this part. According to a survey, 79% of men aged between 25 and 34 would consider taking increased paternity leave, which could be up to a year once new rules come into action in 2015.19 77% 40% What percentage of the childcare responsibilities would you say you personally handle? Interestingly, more young men think that they share an equal load of the childcare responsibilities. Bearing in mind that this is self-assessed, hands-on fatherhood seems more likely to be in practice amongst younger fathers, demonstrating the growing prevalence of the more openly emotional and caring male. Gen Y Men % Gen X Men % 10% 1% 0% 3% 20% 4% 4% 3% 30% 29% 17% 29% 22% 21% 26% 50% of men would choose more time with the family above all else Total Men 40% of men say that being a parent is important to them % of childcare carried out 26% 29% 23% 60% 8% 17% 3% 70% 4% 8% 3% 80% 1% 0% 3% 90% 3% 4% 3% 100% 1% 0% 3% Survey by Allen & Overy, Financial Times, March 2013 19 38 39
  • 22. For years, women who juggle a demanding job, get the kids to their after-school clubs, and still manage to get their legs waxed have been heralded as ‘superwomen’. Our data reveals that 42% of men feel anxious about balancing the demands of work and family. Perhaps men are starting to feel a similar pressure to do, and have, it all. MEN WHOM MEN ADMIRE The men that men admire give us some final clues about how men would like to be and be seen today. Here’s our top ten. 62% Men are embracing their role as fathers believe they are mostly on top of it and doing a decent job BRAND IMPLICATIONS: A new generation of hands-on, emotionally available family men is emerging. They take great pride in sharing an increasingly equal portion of family responsibilities. We may currently see more household purchasing power in the hands of women, but the future is going to see an even greater balance of responsibility weighted towards men. Brands must seek to engage and support fathers too. 40 1. David Beckham – 37% Becks embodies many of the aspirational characteristics of the modern man we have explored. He is a hands-on family man with a successful career, throughout which he has demonstrated commitment and integrity. He is also a well-groomed, fashion pioneer, but one who is nonetheless comfortable with his wife taking centre stage. A truly modern man. 2. Bill Gates – 35% Bill Gates represents the pinnacle of professional success, despite coming across as a fairly normal chap. Popular for his philanthropy, Gates is phenomenally rich, having overcome the failure of his first business. He represents hard work and determination. 41
  • 23. 3. Sean Connery – 35% Immortalised as one of Britain’s best-loved Bonds, Sean Connery epitomises the gentlemanly behaviour, ‘confidence in a crisis’ and impeccably well-groomed characteristics that men seek to achieve today. 4. Barack Obama – 32% Obama manages his responsibilities with apparent ease and confidence. His election as the USA’s first black president symbolises career achievement and commitment to personal values, against all odds. Clearly a balanced family man, he is comfortable sharing the spotlight with his wife and children. Gracious, gentlemanly, charming and a champion, Federer was named the second most respected man in the world in 2011, after Nelson Mandela. 5. Usain Bolt – 31% 7. Daniel Craig – 25% The second Bond in our top ten, Craig is suave, sophisticated but tough – and a winner with the ladies to boot. 6. Roger Federer – 30 % 8. Bruce Willis – 22% The ultimate action hero with a streak of cool. Willis is the quintessentially tough guy, but with a twinkle in his eye and suggestion of a softer side. Usain Bolt is at the top of his game, peerless in his success but totally likeable and charismatic with it. Famed for pre-race chicken nuggets and slowing down before the tape, Bolt is the champion who doesn’t seem to try too hard. 42 43
  • 24. THE FINAL WORD: MARKETING TO MEN 9. Frank Sinatra – 20% Dapper, smooth, with a reputation for fast living and an air of authority, the Chairman of the Board represents an old-fashioned gentleman with some serious swagger. 10. Jamie Oliver – 19% The omnipresent Oliver can seemingly do no wrong, with a successful business empire, TV career and some political clout too. What’s more, he’s regarded as a loving family man – despite the fact he must work seventeen hours a day. How does he find the time? What does this list tell us about men’s aspirations? Well, the one thing they have in common is that they have very little in common. The list is remarkably diverse. It features sports stars, politicians, actors, fathers, husbands, old and young men, action heroes, boffins, style icons and geeks. In fact, this list really reflects the multiplicity of options for men. It supports the fact that men in Britain today can be whatever sort of man they please, and be admired for it. Modern men, it seems, are much more complex than the media currently suggests. 44 45
  • 25. The Male Chameleon As we have seen, masculinity now plays out in a multiplicity of ways. No longer just the hunter-gatherer, British boys are exploring new roles, lifestyles and looks in different areas of their lives. Nor are they as one-dimensional as the media would often have us believe. Just like women, they juggle the roles of parent, partner, provider, worker and one of the boys. Brands need to acknowledge and reflect their complexity. On the flipside, a proliferation of options may be daunting and lead to choice paralysis for those men who were comfortable following tradition. Brands playing in a male space can find ways to support those men who feel overwhelmed by choice, help them navigate all the options they face, and ultimately help them become the best version of the man they want to be. are important to them (see the Robinson’s advert ‘Pals’ for a great example). But this does not mean they are feminised either. Bear in mind too that men still need to be men, that they need time and space to foster their male friendships and enjoy their shared interests. Take for instance, Age UK’s ‘Men in Sheds’ campaign, which seeks to bring together isolated older men in a space where they feel comfortable. Do not underestimate the importance of these man-only respites. Welcome the New Consumer: Men Respect Men’s Emotional Intelligence The cues of masculinity have been redefined in today’s post-recessionary, values-based culture. Manhood has become a more rounded concept, comprising emotional intelligence, a core role in the household as a family man who values relationships, and an emphasis on who you are, not what you have. So recognise that men are in touch with their emotions too, and that their personal and family relationships 46 No doubt you have heard that women hold the pursestrings, that they control 80% of household decisions. Many products and services are consequently tailored to appeal to women and mums. Are they missing a trick? Last year JWT flagged up ‘Dads in the Aisles’ as one of our Things to Watch for 2013. More and more men are venturing boldly into new territories – the supermarket, the grooming parlour, the cosmetic counter, the fashion retailer. Brands will need to take the male perspective into account, repurposing their services, spaces, tools and communications to appeal to them and acknowledging their changing lifestyles. This does not mean heavyhanded emphasis on gender, but simply ensuring that their approach is inclusive, welcoming and informative. 47
  • 26. For more information contact: Marie Stafford Planning Foresight Director JWT London 1 Knightsbridge Green London SW1X 7NW +44 (0) 207 656 7000 marie.stafford@jwt.com 48 49