different washing effect on denim shirt

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CHAPTER-1
INTRODUCTION

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Introduction:
Industrial washing is one of the finishing method supplied on fabric or garment, which
together with the use of new technologies and equipment enables to obtain the desired results.
For finishing of denim fabrics, a range of treatment methods is used. They all are aimed at
new possible effects of fabric appearance, namely mill wash or rinse wash, stonewash, moon
wash, sand wash, bleach, over dyed-look, damaged-look, scrubbed-look. The greatest
influence is made by washing on wear, hygienic and mechanical properties of items. During
the whole washing cycle, garments are affected by the entire complex of different factors
such as a washing solution, abrasion, creasing, heat, various chemicals, etc. Therefore,
intensive destruction of polymers that are the components of fibres takes place and leads to
intensive wear of articles. Garments from short fibres feature more intensive wear and tear as
in the process of washing fibres are released gradually.
Usually, finishing is applied for already sewn garments, therefore, it is very important to
know the impact made by particular washing on the sewing garment fabric in order to
preserve the quality of a sewing garment. This will be considered even in the phase of
garment design. In modern sewing industry, washing is applied to articles of cotton, linen and
other fabrics.
The major objective of this work is to examine the effect comes out for Bleach wash, enzyme
wash and stone Enzyme wash on denim garments. The project run on same woven denim
fabric to measure which types of wash are show which types of characteristic on different
test. The works are mainly on to measure the difference between treated and untreated
garments.
Denim is one of the oldest types of working cloth that is available in the world, and it is
known for its durability and comfort. The word “denim” was first listed in Webster's
dictionary in 1864, and it is assumed that it was derived from the French phrase "Serge de
Nimes".
Denim are one of the world’s most popular fabric. Denim apparel worn by men, women and
children of all ages and backgrounds. But what exactly makes denim so popular?
Because denim has strong strength and durability which make its more popular. In terms of
style, denim apparel without a doubt one of the most attractive types of apparel on the
market. As they age, they become more attractive, building greater aesthetic value. The
colour fades just slightly. The texture becomes more consistent. Denim apparel are incredibly
easy to match with other garments, denim apparel are incredibly easy to maintain, requiring
very little other than an occasional washing and drying. In fact, some denim experts even
suggest washing your denim only when they are dirty.

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CHAPTER -2
LITERATURE REVIEW

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2.1 Garment manufacturing:
"Garment manufacturing" means sewing, cutting, making, processing, repairing, finishing,
assembling, or otherwise preparing any garment or any article of wearing apparel or
accessories designed or intended to be worn by any individual.
There are four major kinds of textile processing - fibre processing, yarn processing, fabric
processing and garment processing. Garment processing has grown to a great extent during
the past few years. This growth can be attributed mainly to the denim garments, which is the
largest garment segment today. [1]
2.2 Denim fabric:
Denim is a strong, durable fabric constructed in a twill weave with indigo and white yarns.
The blue/indigo yarns are the lengthwise or “warp” threads (parallel to the selvage). The
white yarns run across the fabric width (the weft threads). Denim is traditionally woven with
100%-cotton yarn; however, today it’s blended with polyester, to control shrinkage and
wrinkles, and Lycra to add stretch. Today, denim has many faces. It can be printed, striped,
brushed, napped and stonewashed, and the indigo. [2]
2.3 Denim Fabric Construction:
Denim is made from rugged tightly woven twill in which the weft passes under two or more
warp threads. Lengthwise, yard is dyed with indigo or blue dye; horizontal yarns remain
white. The yarns have a very strong twist to make them more durable, but this also affects the
denim's colour. The yarns are twisted so tightly that indigo dye usually colours only the
surface, leaving the yarns centre white. The blue strands become the threads that shown on
the outside of your denim and the white are the ones that make the inside of your denim look
white. This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric.
Through wear, the indigo yarn surface gives way, exposing the white yarn underneath which
causes denim to fade. [3]
2.4 History of Denim:
It’s believed that denim got its name from a similar fabric, serge, which was developed in the
17th
century in Nîmes, France. The original term for the fabric, “serge de Nîmes” (serge from
Nîmes), was twisted and shortened through the years to just “denim. “Though it has a similar
weave, serge is made from wool, whereas denim has always been constructed from cotton,
with a weft that passes under two or more warp threads. Denim was originally used by
workers. They wore denim clothes because of it’s durability, it was extremely strong and
perfect for their daily jobs, it didn’t wear out easily making it a good fabric for the long run.[4]

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2.5 Garment manufacturing flowchart:
We follow the following flow chart during garments manufacturing
Design
↓
Pattern making
↓
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Cutting Parts Sorting or Bundling
↓
Sewing
↓
Garments Inspection
↓
Garments Ironing and Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
2.6 Process Chart of half sleeve denim Shirt manufacturing:
Sequence:
Collar making:
1. Mark lining
2. Collar run stitch
3. Collar run and iron
4. Collar top stitch
5. Collar band hem
6. Collar attach to band
7. Collar trimming marking and notching
8. Collar band centre stitch

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Front section:
1. Form button hole placket
2. Top stitch button hole placket
3. Sewn button placket
Back section :
1. Join upper yoke panel
2. Attach back yoke with back panel
3. Back yoke top stitch
Assembly section
1. Set front and back and mark neck for collar
2. Shoulder attach
3. Shoulder top stitch
4. Sleeve attach
5. Top stitch arm hole
6. Side seam
7. Collar attach
8. Collar close
9. Bottom hem attach
2.7 Washing:
Washing is a method of cleaning, usually with water and often some kind of soap or
detergent. Good washed cloth is an essential part of good hygiene. Soap and detergents to
assist in the emulsification of oil, dart particles and bacteria so they can wash away. The soap
can applied directly to wash cloth or with the aid of washcloth. [5]
2.8 Garments Washing:
In the readymade garments sector garments washing is a new technology. By garments
washing, colour and outlook of the garments are modified. As a result new outlook and
appearance is produced in the garments which are not possible in any other method.
Normally garments washing means cleaning of dirty garments with soap or detergent. But it
is not that garments washing which industry used as a technology. The technology which is
used to modify the outlook, appearance, comfort ability and design of the readymade
garments made from solid dyed or pigment printed fabric is called garments washing. [6]
2.9 Denim washing:
Technologically, Denim washing is the most important fashion element for clothing industry.
Usually the term ‘washing’ is most significantly applied in case of sewn apparels so it is very
essential to observe the effects that have been made by particular washing on the fabrics to

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hold the qualities of sewn apparels. Washing is one of the most important finishing
treatments applied on apparels that have great usage to create special outlooks and improve
the fashion. There is huge demand of Denim garments with different faded look. Various
types of washing have been used on completely sewn denim readymade garments to give this
look and have the largest effect on finished garment.[7]
2.10 Bleach wash:
Bleach wash refers to light blue shades of denim. This bleaching is usually carried out by
strong oxidizing agents. In industry, most widely used chemicals are sodium hypo-chlorite,
calcium hypo-chlorite, hydrogen per oxide and potassium permanganate.[8]
2.11 Enzyme Wash:
Enzyme wash is environmental friendly wash due to the natural origins of enzymes. It is also
a popular garment washing process. To reduce the adverse effect of stone wash, the garments
are washed by using enzymes. Enzyme breaks the surface cellulose fibers of the fabric and
removes during washing. The enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath
or its temperature when the desired color will be achieved. During enzyme washing cellulose
fibers from the surface of the fabric are removed. Rest of the processes of enzyme washing
includes final rinsing and softening. [9]
2.12 Stone Enzyme Washing:
Stone enzyme washing is a textiles manufacturing process typically utilized by the fashion
industry, in order to give a newly-assembled cloth garments a worn-out appearance. Stone-
enzyme washing also helps to increase the softness and flexibility of otherwise stiff and rigid
fabrics such as canvas and denim. The garments are placed in a large horizontal industrial
clothes washer that is also filled with large rocks with enzyme. As the wash cylinder rotates,
the cloth fibres are repeatedly pounded and beaten as the tumbling stones ride up the paddles
inside the drum and fall back down onto the fabric. The enzyme- stone washing treatment has
a great influence on the physical and mechanical properties of denim fabric. It also has an
effect on the colour properties but the change is slight. The fabric weight (GSM) gradually
reduces with the increment of enzyme solution with a fixed amount of pumice stone with
other parameters same. The Shrinkage occurs most significantly in the warp way. The tensile
strength of the denim fabrics decreases with the increment of enzyme solution. The
decrement in the strength is more prominent in the warp way as the fabric is warp faced twill
and the rubbing action of the stone affects the warps greatly. The seam strength also reduces
with increased enzyme solution. The rubbing action between the stone and the seam area
influences the reduction of the seam strength. A significant change in the bending length of
the denim fabric is found after the enzyme- stone washing. The change is prominent in warp
way and it can be said that, the softness of the fabric increases after enzyme- stone washing.
The colour shade changes with the increment of enzyme concentration but the change is
slight. It is clear that the increase in the enzyme concentration (with other parameters and
amount of stone same), the physical properties change and actually reduces the fabric
strength, seam strength and GSM but the softness of the fabric increased and the colour fades.

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The fading effect can be increased by increasing the enzyme concentration but that will
reduce the serviceability of the garments. So an optimum enzyme- stone action should be
chosen considering the required fading effect without compensating the important physical
properties of denim.[10]
2.13 History of Enzyme:
The biggest single revolutionary trend in the detergent industry in the latter years has been
the use of enzyme additives. Enzymes as aids to washing are not new to the industry.
Proteolysis enzymes had been tried as additives to washing powders in Germany in the 1920s
with only moderate success and again in Switzerland in the 1930s. Enzymes, which can be
called organic catalysts, tend to hasten reactions and the photolytic enzymes convert or 'break
down' proteins wholly or partially into amino acids. The action is rather slow and the
production costs high, but with improved methods of production and purification, strains of
enzymes, usually in admixture with a proportion of amylase which breaks down starches,
were developed which were relatively fast acting. These were added initially to 'pre-soak'
detergents and found immediate acceptance in the European countries where washing habits
were such that washing was normally soaked for a period prior to the wash proper.
Better and better strains of enzymes were developed, with stability to a wider pH spectrum,
stability against perforated and quicker action. In the United States detergent manufacturers
resisted the incorporation of enzymes into their powders for some years after this type of
powder had almost completely swept the board in Europe but in 1968 enzymatic powders
started appearing there as well. The position at present is that enzymatic powders are now
holding a large proportion of the household detergent market and formulations appeared
made for machine washing. Some washing-machine manufacturers are now producing
automatic washing machines with a 'Bio' programmed which allows the washing to remain in
contact with the detergent solution for an extended period of time at a relatively low
temperature before beginning the washing and heating cycle. The future of enzymes is at the
moment obscure as the production of enzymatic powders has raised its own problems, and
one Scandinavian firm has already decided to withdraw its powder containing enzymes from
the market, but other large firms are taking enzymes out of some of their powders while
forging ahead with others. [11]
2.14 Enzyme:
Enzymes are biological molecules (typically proteins) that significantly speed up the rate of
virtually all of the chemical reactions that take place within cells. They are vital for life and
serve a wide range of important functions in the body, such as aiding in digestion and
metabolism. Some enzyme help break large molecules into smaller pieces that are more
easily absorbed by the body. Other enzymes help bind two molecules together to produce a
new molecule. Enzymes are highly selective catalysts, meaning that each enzyme only speeds
up a specific reaction. The molecules that an enzyme works with are called substrates. The
substrates bind to a region on the enzyme called the active site. There are two theories
explaining the enzyme-substrate interaction. In the lock-and-key model, the active site of an
enzyme is precisely shaped to hold specific substrates. In the induced-fit model, the active

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site and substrate don't fit perfectly together; instead, they both alter their shape to connect.
Whatever the case, the reactions that occur accelerate greatly over a million fold once the
substrates bind to the active site of the enzyme. The chemical reactions result in a new
product or molecule that then separates from the enzyme, which goes on to catalyze other
reactions. [12]
2.15 Objective of Enzyme wash:
 To remove the size materials from the garments
 To remove the starch presents on the garments fabrics.
 To achieve the high low abrasion (stone affect) on garment and seam abrasion in
sewing area.
 Enzyme attack as chemically not mechanically for this reason low damage/wastage
then stone wash.
 For soft feeling to wear the garment.
 To achieve the buyer reference sample.
 To increase the color fastness & rubbing fastness.
 Especially develop the "Bio-Polishing" affect of cotton/denim.
 Enzyme improves the anti-pilling properties.

Enzyme attacks more the surface of the fabrics and gives a very smooth surface. [13]
2.16 Effects of Enzyme wash:
 This is a bio catalytic method where in an ultra-soft hand feel can be produce.
 The hydrolytic effects of enzymes cause the loss of surface fiber, which improve the
fabric surface smoothness.
2.17 Mechanism of Enzyme Washing:
Enzymes have active centres, which are the points where substrate molecule can join. Just as
a particular key fits into a lock, a particular substrate molecule fits into the active site of the
enzyme. The substrate forms a complex with the enzyme. Later the substrate molecule is
converted into the product and the enzyme itself is regenerated
Fig. 1 Lock & Key model of enzyme specificity

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The process continues until the enzyme is poisoned by a chemical bogie or inactivated by
extremes of temperature, pH or by other negative conditions in the processing environment.[14]
Fig. 2 Active site of enzyme blocked by poison molecule
2.18 Bleach :
Bleach is a chemical which removes colours from the garments. Common chemical bleaches
include household chlorine bleach, a solution of approximately 4–6% sodium hypochlorite
(NaClO), and oxygen bleach, which contains hydrogen peroxide or a peroxide-releasing
compound such as sodium per borate, sodium per carbonate, sodium persulfate, tetra sodium
pyrophosphate, or urea peroxide together with catalysts and activators. It should be noted that
bleaching powder is calcium hypochlorite. Most of the bleaches contain strong bactericidal
properties which are harmful for human health and should be used with care.[15]
2.19Objectives of Bleach wash:
 To achieve fading effect on the garments.
 To remove the starch present on the garments.
 To remove the size material from the garments.
 To achieve soft effect on the garments.
 To increase color fastness.
 To increase rubbing fastness.[15]
2.20 Mechanism of Bleaching Action:
Chemical bleaches can be worked on garments fabric in two ways which have discussed in
the below:
1. Oxidizing bleach works by breaking the chemical bonds that make up the
chromospheres. This changes the molecule into a different substance that either does
not contain a chromophore, or contains a chromophore, which also does not absorb
visible light.
2. On the other hand, reducing bleach works by converting double bonds into single
bonds in the chromophore. This vanish the ability of the chromophore to absorb
visible light.[16]

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2.21Stone Enzyme Wash:
In garments washing, stone enzyme wash is done by using pumice stone and enzyme
chemical. It is one of the revolutionary developments in garments washing. Stone enzyme
wash are three types such as stone enzyme wash, medium stone enzyme wash and heavy
stone enzyme wash. Garments or apparel or clothing look like too much pretty after applying
stone enzyme wash.
2.22Objectives of Stone Enzyme Wash:
1. To create irregular fading affect on old looking affect on garments.
2. To remove dust, dart, oil spot, impurities from the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments i.e. to improve softness.
4. To achieve the buyer washing standard.
5. To remove the size materials from the garments.
6. To improve anti-pilling properties. [17]
2.23The properties of pumice stone:
(a)Composition
Pumice has a chemical composition similar to that of obsidian, or volcanic glass. It has very
thin, translucent bubble walls of extrusive igneous rock. Pumice stones as used in beauty
salons are generally high in silica and low in iron and magnesium.
(b)Density
Pumice is very lightweight. This is due to the air bubbles in it, created as gasses departed
during the formation process. Pumice stones vary in density, according to the thickness of the
solid material between the bubbles. Average porosity is 90 percent, which is extremely high
for a rock material.
(c)Buoyancy
Pumice stones are so lightweight they will usually float on water for a time, before eventually
sinking once becoming waterlogged. Large rafts of pumice have been known to float through
oceans for decades after volcanic eruptions.
(d)Abrasivity
Pumice stones are abrasive, which is why they are good at removing dry skin and calluses
from the feet. Pumice is also used as an abrasive in polishes, pencil erasers, cosmetic
exfoliates and the production of printed circuit boards.

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(e)Colour
Pumice is commonly pale in colour, ranging from white, cream, blue or grey, to green-brown
or black. Pumice stones found at beauty salons or in pharmacies are generally light gray in
colour.[18]
Figure 3: Pumice stone
2.24 Chemical Composition of pumice stone (According to the Indian
grade):
Table 1: Chemical Composition of pumice stone

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2.25 Before and after washing images of denim shirt:
Bleach wash:
Fig: Before wash sample Fig: After wash sample
Enzyme wash:

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Stone enzyme wash:

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CHAPTER- 3
RAW MATERIALS &METHODOLOGY

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To perform a successful experiment the following materials, instruction and method are use
in this project
3.1 Raw materials:
1. Woven Denim Apparel: [
×
×
× 58" , twill denim]
2. Bleaching Agent (NaOCl Sodium hypochlorite)
3. Enzyme ( Acid enzyme)
4. Pumice Stone (Natural Stone)
3.2 Working Place:
 Apparel manufacturing lab in Bangladesh University of Business & Technology
(BUBT)
 Washing lab in Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)
 Testing lab in Bangladesh University of Business & Technology (BUBT)
3.3 Types of machines used for washing:
 Washing Machine.
 Sample Dryer.
3.3.1 Sample washing machine:
Specification:
 Name of the machine: washing machine
 Brand: Mathis
 Origin: Switzerland
 Model: GW-5
 Serial No: 140472
 Rated Power: 3W-380V
 Weight: 350Kg
3.3.2 Dryer:
Specification:
 Name of the machine: Dryer machine
 Brand: SIEMENS
 Origin: China
 Model: WD12D523

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3.4 Instrument used for testing:
Testing Instrument Used For
GSM Cutter. GSM Measurement
Shrinkage Measuring Scale. Shrinkage Measurement
Counting Glass. CPI & WPI
Crock meter. Colour fastness to rubbing
Perspire meter. Colour fastness to Perspiration
Air permeability tester. Air permeability measurement
Sample drying machine Colour fastness to wash
Light box Shade Comparison
Table 2: Instrument used for testing
3.5 Machine used for washing:
There are different types of machine , which are used in garments washing plant ,are
mentioned in the below:
1. Sample Washing Machine:
In garments washing plant , sample washing machine is an important equipment . All the
sample garments are washed here.Sample washing maching is must for any garments
washing plant.
2. Sample Dryer Machine
Figure 4: Sample Washing Machine Figure 5: Dryer

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3.6 Machine used for Testing:
1) Crockmaster:
Electronic crockmaster used to determine the colour fastness of textile to dry or wet
rubbing. A pinned acrylic sample holder ensures rapid sample mounting and repeatability of
results. This crockmaster fitted with a pre-determined electronic counter for strokes up to
999,999 times.
Figure 6: Crockmaster
Specification
a) Rubbing head : Dia-16mm
b) Vertical pressure :9n+/-10%
c) Rubbing stroke : 100mm
d) Rubbing speed :adjustable
e) Counter: LCD, 1-999,999 times, automatically stops.
2) Perspirometer:
Perspirometer is used for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds in all
forms to the action of human perspiration .B-Tex engineering bring most reliable
perspirometer is the best price.
Colour fastness of dyed or printed fabrics, against the perspiration, is determined by exposing
the fabric to the action of both alkaline and the acetic reagents, while in contact with undyed
adjacent on both side.

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Features of perspirometer:
a) Can also be used for testing colour fastness against sea water and water.
b) Made of stainless steel frame.
c) A different load for AATCC standards is available on request.
d) User friendly and corrosion resistant.
e) Smooth precision engineered component for excellent performance.
Specification of perspirometer:
a) Frame construction :Stainless steel
b) Load on the test specimen : 5 kg
c) Size of the test specimen :10cm ×4cm
d) Number of separator plates :21 Nos
e) Dimensions of the unit :225 mm(L)×72mm(W)×182mm(H)
f) Net weight of the unit :8.3kg
Technical specification and appearance of machines are subject to change without any notice.
3) Shrinkage Template:
Specification of shrinkage template:
Shrinkage is the change in dimension of any fabrics or garments after laundering or dry
cleaning. To access this dimensional change of fabric directly with maximum accuracyaccu
SHRINK i2 TM (ISO) has been developed which meets the specification of international
standard.
To determine directly the % dimensional change (shrinkage) in all type of fabrics.
Fine calibrated shrinkage template with three 35cm benchmarks lengthwise and three 35cm
benchmarks width wise.
Calibrated scale to check the shrinkage directly from (0-15) % even the stretch can be
directly measured up to 15% .
Two fine tipped black and yellow fabric markers are supplied for accurate marking on light
and dark colour fabric.
All items nicely packed in a beautiful box help is carriage.
Acrylic template and scale keeps calibration intact in any atmospheric condition and gives
nice look.
Supplied with inspection and calibration certificate .
Weight : 1kg (2.2lb)

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Figure 7 : Shrinkage template
Dimension:
4) Weight Balance:
Specification:
a) Measurement can be done up to 30000 GSM.
b) Accuracy: 10×10-1GSM, 20×10-0.5 GSM, 20×20-o.25 GSM.
c) 24-bit high resolution LED display.
d) Rechargeable 6 V, 1.5 AH SMF batteries in – built.
e) Weight : 5 kg
Figure 8: Weight Balance
Length Depth Height
500 mm or 19.5 inch 500 mm or 19.5 inch 3mm or 0.13 inch

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5) GSM cutter:
Specification:
a) Diameter of specimen : 113mm
b) Area of specimen : 100cm²
c) Body : Light weight aluminium metal
d) Blade : 4 Nos+4Nos. Heavy duty garments blade.
e) Pad : 2 Nos special quality rubber pads.
Figure 9: GSM Cutter
6) Bursting Strength Tester:
Figure 10: Bursting Strength Tester

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Specification:
a) Weight: 110 kg (242 lb)
b) Length: 530 mm, 21 Inch
c) Depth: 430 mm, 17 Inch
d) Height: 610 mm, 24 Inch
e) Pressure: 70 kg/cm²
f) Sample size: 5cm×5cm
7) Pilling Tester:
Specification:
a) Size of wooden boxes (Inside): 225 x 225 x 225 mm
b) Thickness of cork lining: 3 mm
c) Speed of rotation of boxes: 60 rpm
d) Size of test specimen: 25 x 12.5 cm
e) Size of rubber tubes: 32 OD x 25.5 ID x 150 mm long
f) Motor: Ã‚Â¼ H.P Single Phase 220 V AC
g) Counter: 5 digit preset type stroke counter
h) Rotation time: 5 hr
Figure 11: Pilling Tester
8) Drape Tester:
The instrument consists of three parts 1. Mirror Unit; 2. Sample Holder; 3. Shadow Tracing
Surface.
A circular fabric specimen is held concentrically between smaller horizontal disc and an
annular ring of fabric is allowed to drape into graceful folds around the lower supporting disc.

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The outline of shadow is traced on paper and then its mass is determined. Initially, the weight
of paper of 15 cm dia is determined and the drape co-efficient is calculated.
drape coefficient =
mass of shaded area
total mass of paper ring
× %
Fig 12: Drape Tester
3.7The Process of enzyme washing:
Enzyme treatment:
 Lot size = 180 gm = 0.18 kg
 Total liquor = 35 liter
 Add acetic acid=0.5ml/L=17.5ml
 Add anti-back staining agent=0.6ml/L=21ml
 Add acid enzyme= 2 ml/L=70 ml
 Temperature : 450
C
 Time: 45min
 Raise the temperature up to 700
C and stay 1 min for killing the enzyme
 Wet up to 600
C
 Drain the bath.
 Cold wash for 5 min.
3.8The Process of bleach washing:
Bleach treatment
 Lot size = 179 gm =0.179 kg
 Add bleaching powder =5gm/L=175 gm

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 Add anti-back staining agent=0.6ml/L=21 ml
 Add soda ash=2.5gm/L=87.5ml
 Temperature: 500
C
 Time: 30 min
 Drop the liquor.
 For neutral wash add sodium Hyposulphite = 3gm/l = 105gm/l
 Temperature : 400
C
 Time = 5 min
 Again drop the liquor
 For soft wash, add cationic softener = 1gm/l=35 gm
 Add acetic acid = 1 gm/l =35 gm
 Temperature = 400
C
 Time = 10 minutes
 Drop the liquor
 Wet up to 700
C
3.9The Process of stone enzyme washing:
Stone enzyme treatment
 Lot size =180gm = 0.18 kg
 Add pumice stone =1 kg
 Add acetic acid=1ml/L=35ml
 Add acid enzyme=2 ml/L=70ml
 Temperature: 450
C
 Time: 45min
 Drop the liquor
 For soft wash add cationic softener 0.5 gm/l=17.5 gm
 Add acetic acid= 1 gm/l = 35 ml
 Drop the liquor
 Wet up to 700
C
3.10 Test & Procedure:
To measure the treatment effect on denim apparel following properties are tested.
1. GSM
2. Shrinkage
3. EPI & PPI
4. Warp Count Weft Count
5. Pilling Test
6. Color Fastness To Rubbing
7. Bursting strength
8. Color fastness to perspiration
9. Drape

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Testing procedure:
3.10.1 GSM Measurement:
 GSM Cutter
 Electric meter
Working Procedure:
 For measurement GSM the fabric is cut by GSM cutter.
 Weight is taken by electric balancer.
 By this way we get the weight in gram per one square meter fabric
 GSM of the fabrics by the GSM cutter is obtained by the multiplying the sample
weight with 100
3.10.2 Shrinkage Measurement:
Shrinkage is the process in which the fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually
through the process of laundry. Cotton fabric suffers from two main disadvantages of
shrinkage and creasing during subsequent washing.
There are two types occurs during washing
 Length wise.
 Width wise.
Working Procedure:
 For shrinkage test fabric samples are marked 50cm×50cm.
 Then sample is washed and then dried.
 From that the shrinkage is measured.
3.10.3 EPI& PPI Measurement:
 Counting Glass.
 Needle.
Working Procedure:
 For measuring the EPI & PPI of the fabrics, before and after washed samples are
taken.
 Then counting glass placed on samples to measure the EPI & PPI from 1 inch fabrics.
3.10.4 Warp Count &Weft Count :
Required Instrument
 Template
 Beesleys Balance

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 Knife
 Marking pen
 Needle
The following length is used to determine the count:
 Cotton : 4.32 Inch
 ½ cotton :2.16 Inch
 Linen :1.543 Inch
 Wool :1.315 Inch
 Worsted :2.88 Inch
Procedure:
1. Collect sample by appropriate sampling method.
2. This Sample conditioning at testing atmosphere.
3. Marked the fabric by using template
4. Cut that’s fabric by knife according to the marking.
5. The pointer is set directly opposite to the detum line, with no material and counter
weight in their proper places, by adjusting the leveling screw. The counter weight for the
particular length which is supplied with the instrument is chosen and suspended at the
notch D. (For full cotton the large rider is placed in the notch and for ½ cotton small
rider is placed)
6. Now yarn is withdrawn from sample and placed sample hook until the pointer comes in
level with the datum line.
7. At that stage the threads are taken out and counted which givers directly the cont of yarn
taken for testing.
8. There 30 threads in the sample hook at the balanced condition so the count of the yarn is
30s
3.10.5 Pilling Test:
Procedure:
 A specimen (125 mm × 125 mm) is cut from fabric (2 for warp 2 for weft). Stitched
face-to-face and turned inside out.
 The fabric tube is then mounted on rubber tubes.
 The loose ends taped with PVC tape.
 All the four samples are then tumbled together in a cork-lined box 9'' × 9'' × 9'' and
allowed for required revolution cycle.
 The specimens are taken out and removed from rubber tube and rated.
 Also, pilling is mainly due to fibers with very high “lateral strength” or "bending
strength" or “low brittleness”
Pilling grades :
Grade 5: No or very weak formation of pills.
Grade 4: Weak formations of pills.
Grade 3: Moderate formations of pills.
Grade 2: Obvious formations of pills.
Grade 1: Severe formation of pills.

BUBT Page 27
3.10.6 Color Fastness to Rubbing:
The test identifies the shade variation due to rubbing in two different conditions.wet and dry
 Crock Meter
 Rubbing Sample Size 5cm×5cm
 Sample size 14cm×10cm
Working Procedure:
To measure the colour fastness to rubbing the sample fabric is attach on the bed and rubbing
measurement fabric is attach on the machine finger then 10 times the handle rotate to find the
result.
3.10.7 Bursting strength test:
 Bursting tester
 Sample fabric
Procedure:
 Place specimen without tension in the ring clamp and fasten securely
 Start machine and continue until the specimen bursts
 Record results
3.10.8 Color Fastness to perspiration:
 Perspiration.
 Sample size 100mm×40mm
 Multi fiber.
Working Procedure:
 Alkali solution freshly prepared, containing 0.5g histidinemonohydrochloride
monohydrate, 5gm sodium chloride and 5g disodium hydrogen orthophosphate
(Na2HPO44.2H2O) per liter, brought to pH 8 with 0.1 N sodium hydroxide.
 Acid Solution, freshly prepared, containing 0.5g histidinemonohydrochloride
monohydrate, 5gm sodium chloride and 2.5g sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate
(NaH2PO44.2H2O) per liter, brought to pH 5.5 with 0.1 N sodium hydroxide.
 Thoroughly wet one composite specimen in the solution at pH 8 ( solution 1 above )
at a liquor ratio of 50:1 and allow it to remain in the solution for 39 minute at room
temperature. Wipe excess liquid off the specimen between two glass rods and place
the specimen between two plates of the Perspire meter under a pressure of 12.5kPa.
Repeat with the other composite specimen in the acid solution using a separate using a
separate perspire meter.
 Place the perspire meter in an oven at 370C for 4 hr [5]

BUBT Page 28
3.10.8 Drape test:
Drape is the term used to describe the way a fabric hangs under its own weight. It has an
important bearing on how good a garment looks in use.
of paper of 15 cm Diameter is determined and the drape co-efficient is calculated.
drape coefficient =
mass of shaded area
× %

BUBT Page 29
CHAPTER - 4
RESULT AND DISCUSION

BUBT Page 30
4.1 GSM Measurement test:
For measuring GSM the fabric is cut by GSM cutter. Then Weight is taken by electric
balancer. By this way we get the weight in gram per one square meter fabric GSM of the
fabrics by the GSM cutter is obtained by the multiplying the sample weight with 100
The result of GSM measurement of the Denim fabric:
Types of wash Before wash GSM After wash GSM
Bleach wash
148
143
Enzyme wash 136
Stone Enzyme wash 132
Table 3: GSM measurement
Graphical Comparison of GSM measurement :
Discussion:
From GSM test result we can see that the GSM of denim garments is reduced.
120
125
130
135
140
145
150
Bleach wash Enzyme wash Stone Enzyme wash
Before wash GSM
After wash GSM

BUBT Page 31
4.2 Shrinkage (%) measurement test:
For shrinkage test fabric samples are marked 50cm × 50cm.Then sample is washed and then
dried. From that the shrinkage is measured.
The result of shrinkage test measurement (warp wise) for different wash:
Types of wash Shrinkage % (warp wise)
Bleach wash -2%
Enzyme wash -2%
Stone Enzyme wash -3%
Table 4: Shrinkage % measurement (warp wise)
Graphical Comparison of shrinkage % (warp wise):
Bleach wash Enzyme wash
Stone Enzyme
wash
Shrinkage % (warp wise) -2% -2% -3%
-4%
-3%
-3%
-2%
-2%
-1%
-1%
0%
Shrinkage % (warp wise)

BUBT Page 32
The result of shrinkage test measurement (weft wise):
Types of wash Shrinkage % (weft wise)
Bleach wash 1%
Enzyme wash 2%
Stone Enzyme wash 2%
Table 5: Shrinkage (%) measurement (weft wise
Graphical Comparison of shrinkage % (weft wise) :
Discussion:
From shrinkage test result we can observed that after different washing the shrinkage
percentage through warp wise is negative upto -3% and through weft wise it is positive and
up to 2%.
Bleach wash Enzyme wash
Stone Enzyme
wash
Shrinkage % (weft wise) 1% 2% 2%
0%
1%
1%
2%
2%
3%
Shrinkage % (weft wise)

BUBT Page 33
4.3 Measurement of Warp Count and Weft Count:
Collect sample by appropriate sampling method. Marked the fabric by using template, cut the
fabric by knife according to the marking line. The pointer is set directly opposite to the datum
line, with no material and counter weight in their proper places, by adjusting the leveling
screw. The counter weight for the particular length which is supplied with the instrument is
chosen and suspended at the notch D. (For full cotton the large rider is placed in the notch
and for ½ cotton small rider is placed) .Now yarn is withdrawn from sample and placed
sample hook until the pointer comes in level with the datum line. At that stage the threads are
taken out and counted which givers directly the count of yarn taken for testing. There 30
threads in the sample hook at the balanced condition so the count of the yarn is 30s.
The result of warp count and weft count for before wash, Bleach, Enzyme and Stone
Enzyme wash denim fabric:
Graphical Comparison of warp count and weft count:
Discussion :
From warp and weft count measurement test we can observed that after bleach wash, warp
and weft count is increased.
Types of washing Warp count Weft count
Before wash 34 31
Bleach wash 36 33
Enzyme wash 34 33
Stone enzyme wash 34 32
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
Warp Count Weft count
Before wash
Bleach wash
Enzyme Wash
Stone Enzyme wash

BUBT Page 34
4.4 EPI and PPI measurement test:
For measuring the EPI & PPI of the fabrics, before and after washed samples are taken. Then
counting glass placed on samples to measure the EPI & PPI from 1 inch fabrics.
The result of EPI and PPI test for before wash, Bleach, Enzyme and Stone Enzyme
wash denim fabric:
Types of washing EPI PPI
Before wash 120 57
Bleach wash 117 58
Enzyme wash 121 58
Stone Enzyme wash 122 60
Table 6: EPI and PPI measurement
Graphical Comparison of EPI and PPI:
Discussion:
From EPI and PPI measurement we can see that the after washing EPI and PPI are changed.
EPI is increase in Enzyme and Stone Enzyme wash and decrease in Bleach wash. PPI is
increase in all the wash.
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
EPI PPI
Before wash
Bleach wash
Enzyme wash
Stone enzyme wash

BUBT Page 35
4.5 Pilling Test:
A specimen (125 mm x 125 mm) is cut from fabric (2 for warp 2 for weft). Stitched face-to-
face and turned inside out. The fabric tube is then mounted on rubber tubes. The loose ends
taped with PVC tape. All the four samples are then tumbled together in a cork-lined box 9'' x
9'' x 9'' and allowed for required revolution cycle. The specimens are taken out and removed
from rubber tube and rated. Also, pilling is mainly due to fibers with very high “lateral
strength” or "bending strength" or “low brittleness”
Pilling grade Table:
Rating Description Points to be taken into consideration
1 Sure change Severe pilling covering whole of the fabric
surface
2 Significant change Distinct surface piling. Pills of various size and
density covering a large proportion of the
surface
3 Moderate change Moderate surface pilling. Pills of varying size
and density partially covering the surface
4 Slight change Slight surface fuzzing
5 No change No visual change
Table 7: Pilling grade table
The result of pilling test:
The result of pilling test for different washed fabric:
Types of washing Grade
Before wash 5
Bleach wash 5
Enzyme wash 5
Stone Enzyme wash 5
Table 8: Result of pilling test

BUBT Page 36
Graphical Comparison of Pilling test:
Discussion:
From pilling test result it is cleared that no pilling formation is occurred in washed fabric.
4.6 Colour fastness to Rubbing test:
To measure the colour fastness to rubbing the sample fabric is attach on the bed and rubbing
measurement fabric is attach on the machine finger then 10 times the handle rotate to find the
result.
The result of colour fastness to rubbing test for before, bleach, enzyme and stone enzyme
washed denim fabric in dry and wet condition:
Types of washing Dry condition Wet condition
Before wash 5 2
Bleach wash 4 5
Enzyme wash 4 2
Stone Enzyme wash 4 2
Table 9:Colour fastness to rubbing test result
Before wash Bleach wash Enzyme wash
Stone Enzyme
wash
Grade 5 5 5 5
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
Results of pilling test

BUBT Page 37
Graphical comparison of Rubbing test:
Discussion:
From this test we can see that some colour fade is occurred in sample fabric during rubbing
in wet and dry condition. The faded fabric colours are matched in gray scale to find the result.
4.7 Bursting test:
The distend force, which is applied at right angles to the plane of the fabric, under specified
conditions, which will result in the rupture of a textile.
Bursting strength test is an alternative method of measuring strength in which the material is
stressed in all direction at the same time and is therefore more suitable for such material.
The result of bursting test of denim fabric:
Types of washing Kg/cm2
Before wash 6.68
Bleach wash 6.68
Enzyme wash 5.80
Stone Enzyme wash 4.60
Table 10: Bursting test result
Before wash Bleach wash Enzyme wash
Stone Enzyme
wash
Dry condition 5 4 4 4
Wet condition 2 5 2 2
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
Color fastness to rubbing test

BUBT Page 38
Graphical Comparison of Bursting test:
Discussion:
The bursting strength result is same as before wash and bleach wash fabric, but in enzyme
wash and stone enzyme wash it is slightly reduced.
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Fabric strength
Before wash
Bleach wash
Enzyme wash
Stone Enzyme wash

BUBT Page 39
4.8 Perspiration test:
Colour fastness to perspiration is colour fading and alternation can be caused by the reaction
between dyes on garments and the constituents of human perspiration, such as skin waste. It
varies for different individuals and conditions.
Requirement:
a) Sample fabric (10cm×4cm)
b) Multi Fibre (10cm×4cm)
c) Alkaline Solution
d) Acid solution
The result of Perspiration test of different washed woven fabric:
Multi fibre
Acid rating Alkali rating
Before
wash
Bleach
wash
Enzyme
wash
Stone
Enzyme
wash
Before
wash
Bleach
wash
Enzyme
wash
Stone
Enzyme
wash
Acetate 5 5 4 4/5 5 4/5 4/5 5
Cotton 4/5 4/5 4 4 4/5 3/4 4 4
Nylon 6,6 4/5 4/5 4 4 4/5 4 4 4/5
Polyester 4/5 4/5 4 4/5 5 4 4/5 4/5
Acrylic 4 5 4 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4
Wool 4/5 4/5 4 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5
Table 11: Result of Perspiration test

BUBT Page 40
Graphical Comparison of perspiration test (Acid rating) :
Graphical Comparison of perspiration test (Alkali rating) :
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
Acetate Cotton Nylon 6,6 Polyester Acrylic wool
Before wash
Bleach wash
Enzyme wash
Stone Enzyme wash
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
Acetate Cotton Nylon 6,6 Polyester Acrylic Wool
Before wash
Bleach wash
Enzyme wash
Stone Enzyme wash

BUBT Page 41
4.9 Drape test:
of paper of 15 cm dia is determined and the drape co-efficient is calculated.
drape coefficient =
mass of shaded area
× %
The result of drape test of different washed denim apparel :
Before wash:
drapecoefficient =
mass of shaded area
× %
=
.
.
×100%
=28.74%
Bleach wash:
drapecoefficient =
mass of shaded area
× %
=
.
.
×100%
=28.59%
Stone enzyme wash:
drapecoefficient =
mass of shaded area
× %
=
.
.
×100%
= 30.36%
Enzyme wash:
drapecoefficient =
mass of shaded area
× %
=
.
.
×100%
= 27.99%

BUBT Page 42
Graphical Comparison of drape test:
4.10 Appearance difference among three washed sample:
Enzyme wash Stone enzyme wash Bleach wash
26,50%
27,00%
27,50%
28,00%
28,50%
29,00%
29,50%
30,00%
30,50%
31,00%
Before wash Bleach wash Stone Enzyme
wash
Enzyme wash
Drape TEST
Drape TEST

BUBT Page 43
4.11Findings:
 In case of colour fastness to rubbing and perspiration, enzyme wash is preferable
because we found very good colour fastness for both test in dry in wet condition of
enzyme washed denim shirt.
 In case of strength, enzyme wash is also good because in case of both stone enzyme
and bleach was fibre strength is reduced.
 In case of shrinkage, bleach washed denim shirt shrinkage resistance is better than the
enzyme washed and stone enzyme washed fabric.
 In case of fading, stone enzyme washed denim shirt appearance is good. bleach wash
destroy all indigo colour and enzyme wash fading effect is not much noticeable.
 In case of drape test, bleach washed denim apparel drape ability is higher than stone
enzyme and enzyme washed denim apparel.

BUBT Page 44
Conclusion:
The aim of this project is to observe the effects of enzyme wash, bleach wash & stone
enzyme wash on denim apparel characteristic. For that purpose three same denim shirt with
same construction are made and after washing, changes on characteristic of denim shirt has
been observed. All washing treatments indicated great influence on the tensile strength, seam
strength and weight loss of fabric because of the variation of chemical, washing process,
time, temperature and fabric. It was concluded from this study that the enzymatic washing
have ideal results as compared to the other washes. Therefore it is found from the above
results that the bleach wash, stone-enzyme wash are not affordable to fabric mechanical
properties. In stone-enzyme wash, stone abrasion damages the fabric. As result the fabric
GSM, and Tensile strength, Seam performance are also influenced adversely. On the other
hand, bleach wash also faded the indigo color from fabric. As result the fabric strength, seam
performance and GSM decreased. But enzyme wash does not affect the fabric properties like
other washes.
Finally, in denim washing our country has a bright future due to wide spread market of denim
garments. We need thorough knowledge on denim treatment process and also on the fashion
going around the world. And this project will be a guideline for them who are interested in
this sector. We believe that this project will be a guideline for the washing plants in
understanding and doing various treatments.

BUBT Page 45
Appendix:
GSM : gram per square meter
EPI : ends per inch
PPI : picks per inch

BUBT Page 46
References:
1) California Code of Regulations, Title 8, Section 13630.Labor Code Section 2671(b).
(11:30 pm 30/10/2017)
2) http://www.textileschool.com/articles/355/denim-fabrics(10:00pm 30/10/2017)
3) http://www.textileschool.com/articles/355/denim-fabrics(11:40 pm 30/10/2017)
4) https://www.fragrancex.com/fragrance-information/the-history-of-denim.aspx(11:50 pm
30/10/2017)
5) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Washing, 12:50am, 9/9/2017
6) Prof. M.A. Kashem, Garments Merchandising, ISBN No: 978-984-91112-5-2, 1st edition,
page:214
7) http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/01/bleach-wash-of-woven-denims-part-
2.html(11:00pm 18/10/2017)
8) http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/01/bleach-wash-of-woven-denims-part-
2.html(11:00pm 18/10/2017)
9) http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/flow-chart-of-enzyme-washing-process/ (09:38
am 19/10/2017)
10) Elias Khalil,International Journal of Research in Advent Technology, Vol.2, No.9,
September 2014 ,E-ISSN: 2321-9637(10:00pm 19/10/2017)
11) http://www.chemistry.co.nz/deterghistorypart6.htm (09:08am 26/10/17)
12) http://www.livescience.com/45145-how-do-enzymes-work.html (12:40am 26/10/17)
13) Engr. Md. Faruk Hosen, Practice of Garments merchandising & Management, ISBN No:
978-984-8776-01-8, Re-print 12/2015, page:187
14) http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/03/enzyme-and-its-applications-in-textile.html,
6:00pm, 23/10/2017
15) http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/an-overview-of-bleach-wash-applied-on-
garments/7:00pm 24/10/2017
16) https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/07/stone-enzyme-wash-objects-of-
stone.html(8:00pm 25/10/2017)
17) https://www.leaf.tv/articles/the-properties-of-pumice-stones/(9:00pm 25/10/2017)

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