-all about jeans -JEANS TYPES -all about denims -Fibre & yarn, Weight, Structure -good quality production of denim -COTTON YARN -RING SPUN YARN -DENIM DYES -PROPERTIES OF DENIM -DENIM WEAVE STRUCTURES -TYPES OF DENIM FABRICS - most popular variants -INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS -JEANS QUALITY Testing -QUALITY TESTING STANDARD -Market Size, Global -ASIA-PACIFIC IS THE FASTEST GROWING REGION -JEANS CARE LABEL -TARGET MARKET -Jeans manufacturers in India -TOP 10 JEANS BRANDS IN INDIA -Jeans Trend 1. SLOUCHY SILHOUETTES 2. DARK WASHES 3. HEAD-TO-TOE 4. WIDE LEG JEANS 5. PATCH WORK

1. ILMA ZAKIR
M.Design
JEANS
(Men, Women & Kids)

2. JEANS
▪ Jeans are casual-wear pants typically made
from denim fabric.
▪ In some cases, synthetic materials are mixed
with denim.
▪ Many jeans are made from indigo denim and
come in a range of blue colors; other
standard colors include black and white.
▪ Jeans are available in various rises (from
high-rise jeans to low-waisted jeans) and fits
(from baggy jeans to slim-fit to skinny jeans).

3. JEANS TYPES

4. “

5. ▪ Denim is a fabric is used to make a wide variety of
garments, including jackets, overalls, shirts, and jeans.
▪ Denim fabric is twill woven. It has diagonal lines that
are created by an offset in warp threads.
▪ The warp yarn is generally dyed with Indigo while the
weft yarn is left undyed. This results in a blue-colored
front side, and a white-colored backside
▪ The denim fabric has many variants. Some of the most
popular ones include raw denim, stretch denim,
crushed denim, poly denim, and so on.
DENIM

6. “

7. Denim for Jeans
Fiber & Yarn Weight Structure

8. DENIM WEIGHT
Light-weight Denim
up to 8ozs
Mid-weight Denim
between 8oz to 10oz
Heavy-weight Denim
between 11oz to 20oz

9. DENIM
WEIGHT
▪ Denim is measured in imperial units (ounces). The weight is
determined by weighing a square yard of the material. Some fabric
suppliers will also weight denim fabrics in metric conversions –
grams per square meter (GSM).
▪ In American roots, denim usually described by its imperial weight
measured in oz. This can be confusing for some of us who are used
to dealing with GSM.
▪ The weight of denim matters because it influences how the
garment feels to wear and how durable it is.

19. “

20. RAW MATERIAL
OF
DENIM
Fibers contribute to fabric performance and influence
product aesthetic, comfort, durability, appearance
retention and care.
Fiber properties are determined by their physical
structure, chemical composition and molecular
arrangement.

21. FIBERS AND YARN
▪ Today, denim fabrics are also manufactured with fancy design in
order to meet the latest fashion.
▪ The classical denim fabrics are made with open end rotor yarn in
both warp and weft direction.
▪ However, ring yarn, ply yarn, filament yarn, lycra core yarn, slub
yarn are extensively used in denim to achieve some special
effect, luster, smoothness and comfort in denim products.
▪ Yarn Count use for Jeans: 10s, 12s, 16s

22. COTTON FIBRES
▪ The fiber length influences the properties of cotton
and cotton denim fabric. Longer fibers will give higher
durability and quality.
▪ In mass production and cotton synthetic blends, low-
middling cotton is commonly used. For high quality
products, longer staple fibers are preferred.
▪ In contrast with other fibers, cotton will get stronger
in wet condition strength can increase by 30%.

23. RING SPUN YARNS
▪ Ring spun yarn is commonly used in denim fabrics. In
ring spun yarns the entire fibrous stand twisted.
▪ Ring spun yarns have fibers that are fairly well aligned
with the yarn axis.
▪ The longer the fibers are, the stronger the yarn will be.
Also, yarns with better-aligned fibers are stronger than
yarns with less well-aligned fibers.
▪ Crease retention is higher for those fabrics containing
longer-fibers and better-aligned fiber yarns.

24. SLUB YARNS
▪ A Slub yarn is the one that is spun with the intention of
achieving an irregular shape both in length and
diameter.
▪ Previously it was seen only as a defect, but in the
present day world, it is only done to give the fabric a
touch of personality.
▪ Slubby denim is made using indigo yarn that varies in
thickness, creating a unique, irregular texture.

25. ▪ Indigo is commonly used to dye blue jeans. Fibers, yarn,
fabric and garment can be dyed.
▪ Traditional denim fabrics are woven by interlacement of
indigo dyed warp and grey weft. The sequence or order
of interlacement of warp and weft may be varied in
order to produce different denim weave designs.
▪ Dyes itself rarely cause damage on the fibers and
negative affect the durability of the jeans. The poor
color fastness to cotton can sometime be a problem.
DENIM DYES weft
weft
weft
weft
weft
weft
weft
weft

27. Denim can be categorized
according to the yarn with
which it is made. Open end
yarn, ring spun yarn and
double ring yarn are the
most commonly heard
terms.
Denim made with ring
spun yarn is considered the
strongest. Open end yarn
denim is the weakest.

28. “ THE PROPERTIES OF DENIM
FINISHED FABRIC LARGELY
DEPENDS UPON THE
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION.

29. ▪ Denim fabrics are woven structure called 2:1 twill is commonly used.
▪ The twill weave have a technical face and back, the technical face is
the side of the fabric with most pronounced wale.
▪ The technical face is usually more durable than the technical back. High
count woven fabric, i.e. high amount of interlacing, gives a strong,
compact, stable and durable fabric.
▪ Low count fabric, i.e. fewer amount interlaces, gives a flexible and soft
fabric that easily shrinks. To resist big dimensional changes, it is
important with a good balance between warp and weft.
▪ The warp and weft count influence several fabric properties such as
weight, fabric tightness, cover, drape, hand, tensile strength, tear
strength, and other fabric properties.
DENIM FABRIC PROPERTIES

30. WEAVE STRUCTURE

32. TYPES OF DENIM FABRIC
100% COTTON DENIM
Regular denim fabric is made from 100% cotton. This is the original denim
material.
RAW DENIM
Raw or unwashed denim is a fabric that is not washed after the dying process. It
is stiff to the touch.
WASHED DENIM
In contrast to raw denim, washed denim is washed after the dying process to
avoid shrinkage and color bleed. Most denim fabrics are sold as washed.

33. TYPES OF DENIM FABRIC
STRETCH DENIM
Stretch denim fabric is a material that has been blended with synthetic materials
such as elastane and lycra to give a slight stretch but fitted shape.
BULL DENIM FABRIC
This denim fabric has a 3X1 twill construction, making it strong and durable. Bull
denim is often used for upholstery.
COLOURED DENIM
Denim fabric is available in many colors. Blue denim is made using indigo dying,
while other shades such as black, pink, grey and green are created using sulphur
dying processes.

34. Demand for fashion variants of classic denim will continue to grow.
The most popular variants are:
• Basic or regular denim 3/1.
• Ring denim 2/1
• Slub denim.
• Cross hatch denim.
• Stretch denim – weft yarn (elastomer).
• Poly denim – polyester used in weft.
Specific commercial name are widely produced in the denim industry in India:
• Stone-washed and double stone-washed denims.
• Chambrays.
• Fancy multi-color denims.
• Denim with metal-effects yarns.
• Elastic denims.
• Printed denims.
• Jacquard-patterned denims.
• Denims with fancy yarns.

35. “ ▪ According to the standard ISO 9004-2, quality is the
essential nature of something, an inherent or
distinguishing characteristic or property, superiority,
excellence, or perceived level of value.
▪ Exact characteristics experienced as quality features
vary between people. Each person has their own
references of quality, some people find good
durability and functionality as good quality, for
others, attractive design and brand status is good
quality.
QUALITY
QUALITY

36. INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS
▫ The International Organization of Standardization (ISO) is an international
institution with an aim to simplify and improve the quality management of
companies and organizations.
▫ The benefit of international standards is that the common base of information
will simplify trade and production across the world.
▫ The standards make it easier to compare and to assess capacity, quantity,
content, extent, value and quality.

37. JEANS QUALITY Testing
▪ The material category holds fiber, yarn and fabric structure whilst production consists of the
production phase with pre-treatment, making (cutting, sewing, trimming) and finishing.
▪ Fibre, fabric and garment properties are tested with the purpose to ensure both high
durability and quality.
MATERIAL
Fiber Yarn Fabric Structure
PRODUCTION
Pretreatment Making Finishing

38. QUALITY TESTING
STANDARD:
Smoothness Retention
Fabric Breaking Strength
Abrasion Resistance
Tear Strength
Seam Strength
Dimension Stability
Fabric Weight
Fabric Count
Fabric Weave
Yarn Number
Color Differences
Color Fastness to Rubbing

39. FABRIC WEIGHT
ASTM D3776/D3776M-09a (2013), Standard Test Methods for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of
Fabric was used for measuring the weight of denim fabric.
FABRIC COUNT
According to the ASTM D3775-12, Standard Test Method for Warp (End) and Filling (Pick)
Count of Woven Fabrics.
FABRIC WEAVE
Denim is a woven twill fabric, made from all cotton or cotton and synthetic fiber blends and in
a variety of yarn numbers (ASTM, 2013b).
YARN NUMBER
yarn number was determined in accordance with ASTM D1059-01, Standard Test Method for
Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens.

40. COLOR DIFFERENCE
The color difference of garments before and after one and five wash cycles need to visually
measured according to the AATCC Evaluation Procedure 9- 2011, Visual assessment of Color
Difference of Textiles.
COLORFASTNESS TO RUBBING
The wet and dry crocking tests were performed based on the AATCC Test Method 8-2013.
SMOOTHNESS RETENTION
The smoothness appearance of jeans was evaluated following the AATCC Test Method 143-
2011, Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Repeated Home
Laundering.
FABRIC BREAKING STRENGTH
ASTM D 5034-11, Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile
Fabrics (Grab Test).

41. SEAM STRENGTH
The strength of inseams and sideseams of jeans were measured using the ASTM D 1683-11a,
Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics.
ABRASION RESISTANCE
tests were preformed according to ISO 12947-2, Determination of abrasion resistance of
fabrics by the Martindale method.
TEAR STRENGTH
Tear strength was tested with the Elmendorf method, the ISO 13937-1, Tear properties of
fabrics.
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
The dimensional stability was tested according to two standards, ISO 3759, Preparation,
marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for determination of
dimensional change, considering the fabric and ISO 5077, Determination of dimensional
change in washing and drying, considering the garment.

42. Market Size, Global 2020

43. ASIA-PACIFIC IS THE FASTEST GROWING REGION
• The jeans industry witnessed significant growth in China and India, as shoppers
focus on quality and style while purchasing apparel.
• India has a huge young population that makes up about 65% below 35 years of
age, which stimulates the jeans market due to the exposure to the latest jeans
collection by design and quality.
• In India, denim wear has seen a sharp resurgence, primarily driven by new and
more comfortable fabrics, low pricing, and inclusive sizes offered by local and
international brands.
• Denim brands are driving innovation on washes, colors, fits, and even vintage
designs and styles.

44. JEANS CARE LABEL

45. “ • Earlier, denim used to be the
choice of teenagers and people
in their 20’s and 30’s.
• However, times have changed,
and denim has become the
preferred choice of everyone
from kids to the elderly.
TARGET
MARKET

46. S.no Name of Manufacturer Contact
1 Xcess Jeans
WH-40, Block B, Mayapuri Industrial Area Phase I,
Mayapuri, New Delhi, Delhi 110064
2 Denim Vistara Global Pvt. Ltd. 2/37, PGDAV College, Nehru Nagar, New Delhi, 110065
3 Deshnok Innovator A-64, A Block, Sector 58, Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201301
4
Denim Manufacturers
Association
C/o Ginni International Ltd, 11/6B Second Floor, Shanti
Chambers, Pusa Road, New Delhi, Delhi 110005
5
AB Enterprises Jeans
Manufacturers
6319, block 6, Main Padam Singh road, lane, Dev Nagar,
Karol Bagh, New Delhi, Delhi 110005
Jeans manufacturers in India
[Top 5 Manufacturing Companies]

47. • Wrangler 1904
• Levi's 1853
• Lee 1889
• Spykar 1992
• Jack & Jones 1975
• Pepe Jeans 1973
• Calvin Klein 1968
• John Players 1877
• Diesel 1978
• Numero UNO 1987
TOP 10 JEANS BRANDS
IN INDIA | 2022

48. Jeans Trend
SS-2022

49. 1. SLOUCHY SILHOUETTES
Slouchy silhouettes have
been on the rise and we're
seeing them continue to
be popular.
It's all about a wide-leg
shape with a long inseam
that hits the ground.
COURTESY OF VALENTINO

50. 2. DARK WASHES
Spotted on the runway
everywhere from Saint
Laurent to Christian Dior,
sleek dark washes prove
that they're the coolest
way to make denim feel
instantly polished.
SAINT LAURENT EMPORIO ARMANI
CHRISTIAN DIOR

51. 3. HEAD-TO-TOE
Today denim look- from
upper garment to lower.
Combination of denim
jacket with denim jeans.
SAINT LAURENT

52. 4. WIDE LEG JEANS
An oversized jean is the
ideal relaxed spring
silhouette
Loose and relax fit.
Wide from the hem.

53. 5. PATCH WORK
Denim-on-denim patches
evoke the traditional
Japanese style of
patchwork called boro,
which was popular in the
19th- and 20th-century.
Increasingly, brands are
using the sustainable
technique to re-work old
pieces and deadstock
fabrics into fresh finds.

54. References
▪ https://www.pulcra-chemicals.com/denim
▪ https://www.dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk/fabric-blog/something-for-everyone-
the-different-types-of-denim
▪ https://www.heddels.com/dictionary/slub-yarn/
▪ https://sewguide.com/what-is-denim-different-types/#15_bull_denim
▪ FULLTEXT01.pdf
▪ https://uknowledge.uky.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1009&context=m
at_etds
▪ https://okcredit.in/blog/jeans-manufacturers-in-india/
▪ https://digitalmarketingdeal.com/blog/jeans-manufacturers-in-india/
▪ https://www.vogue.com/
▪ https://www.nylon.com/fashion/swimwear-trends-2022
▪ https://www.townandcountrymag.com/style/a37965820/denim-trends-
2022/