Final capstone presentation.

1. Dirty Laundry
By Georgi Annenberg
Analyzing Solutions to
Fashion’s Plastic Problem
Pratt Institute | School of Architecture | Graduate Center for Planning & The Environment | SES 660 Demonstration of Professional Competance | Fall 2019 | Advisors: Leonel Ponce + Ira Stern
MS Sustainable Environmental Systems

2. Research Question
What are the potential policy-driven
downstream and upstream solutions for
reducing microfiber pollution in the city
of New York?

3. Client: Surfrider Foundation USA
501(c)(3) grassroots non-profit environmental organization
based in San Clemente, California
Staff + large chapter network all over the US
Focues on 5 key areas:
Beach accessibility,
Protecting our water resources from pollution,
Ocean protection,
Coastal preservation, and
Reducing the impacts of plastics in the marine environment
Actively involved in microplastic (MP) pollution prevention
Our collaboration: detailed research report for their charter
members + shorter public-facing document for their blog
Image sources: Surfrider Foundation

4. Agenda
Contextual Background
Solutions
Policies
Recommendations
Terms, ubiquity of
synthetics,why do garments
shed, detection, health impacts
Downstream: intermediary
Upstream: longterm
Passed bills
Proposed bills
NYC + the Fashion Industry,
and you

5. Background: Microplastics & Microfibers
Common Synthetic Fibers
Acrylic NylonPolyester
Microplastics
Microfibers
Umbrella term for tiny pieces of
plastic from various sources
Textile-derived, mainly
from washing clothes
Approx. 60% of our
clothes are made
from synthetic fibers
Smaller than 5mm and can
be invisible to the naked eye
Primary sources: car tires,
city dust, road markings,
marine coatings, plastic
pellets and synthetic textiles
Image sources: Washington Post, Patagonia, Amazon

6. Background: Why Microfibers?
Distribution of fiber consumption worldwide in 2017,
by fiber type
Source: Statista (adapted)
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
Synthetic
Textiles
Cotton Wood-
based
Wool Other Nat-
urals
Source: Statista (adapted)
Distribution of ocean microplastic sources
worldwide as of 2018
35% Synthetic Textiles
28% Car Tires
24% City Dust
7% Road Markings
3.7% Marine Coatings
2% Personal Care
Products
0.3% Plastic Pellets
In 2030, demand for polyester will reach 70 million tons,
while demand for cotton will be just over 30 million tons
(Textile World).

7. Background: Why Do Garments Shed?
1 fleece sweater
can shed 1900
fibers per wash
Image source: Patagonia
Acrylic
Polyester
Poly-Cotton
728,789
496,030
137,951
Estimated fibers released from wash, per 6kg load
Source: Vox (adapted)
During washing,
especially on a
delicate cycle
(more water)
Detergents +
softeners
Washing at high
tempretures
Factors that increase shedding:

8. Background: The Problem
Washing machines are not
equipped to capture
microfibers (MFs) released
during washing
WWTPs capture most of the
fibers, BUT MFs reenter the
environment via fertilizer +
runoff
MFs that are not captured
enter waterways and pollute
aquatic environments
MFs make their way up the
food chain and are ingested
by humans

9. Background: Detection in Waters
Image sources: Barrows, A (Research Gate), Wikipedia
MP Global Study
Most extensive study between 2013-2017
11-24 plastic particles per 1 L grab sample
91% were microfibers
NY Hudson River Study
Detected 1 MP per 1 L of water
Equates to 300 million microfibers being
released into the Atlantic Ocean daily

10. Background: Health Impacts - Animals
Plastic Ingredients
Sorbed Contaminants
PBDEs BPAPhthalates
PCBs PAHsMethylmercury
Why is
microplastic so
toxic?
Image sources: National Geographic, Sea Watch Foundation
Bioaccumulation
Biomagnification
TIME
Lingers in the body for longer =
poor feeding habits, early death
Disrupts endocrine +
lymphatic system function
Can translocate to other
parts of the body

11. Background: Health Impacts - Humans
MPs potentially pass through the
placenta to developing fetuses
Unknown human impact, but may be
associated with disrupted gut
microbiome + enhanced inflammatory
response

12. Downstream Solutions: Add-on Filtration
NYC Laundromats: 2500
One filter for
5-10 machines
80% capture rate
Issues:
Based on the company’s data, it would cost $5200 per
laundromat in year 1 and $1200 per laundromat year 2
Subscription service plan:
refurbish cartridges, store
microfibers for recycled
insulation
Transportation Emissions Fossil-Fuel Derived Costly Cartridges Too Damaged Laundromat Buy-In, Consumer
Cooperation

13. Downstream Solutions: Integrated Filtration
90% capture
rate
If all 2500 laundromats in NYC had washing machines with integrated filtration with a
90% capture rate, 232,824 kg or 513,289 pounds of microfibers could be saved from
WWTPs each year.
This is equivalent to the weight of 20 school buses!
Household appliance manufacturer, European-based
Plans to launch domestic machines with filters in 2020 - will be
open-sourcing technology
Retail price unknown
May be Costly Slow Adoption Effectiveness Unknown
Issues:

14. Downstream Solutions: Retrofit NY’s WWTPs
Image sources: Science Mag
Opportunity to
incorporate plastic-
eating bacteria + fungi
Expensive
Time Involves Rigorous Testing
Issues:
WWTP upgrades may cost $3-5 million
Approx. 80-99% of MFs can be filtered
out at WWTPs, but they settle in the
sewage sludge = pollution via
fertilizer + runoff

15. Upstream Solutions: Biodegradable Fibers
Issues:
Image sources: Intrinsic Textiles
Uses Synthetic Fibers Effectiveness Unknown Potential Consumer Confusion
Feedstock becomes part of
the synthetic fiber matrix,
promotes biodegradation
15% biodegradation
at WWTP within 60
days
50% biodegradation
in soils after approx.
100 days

16. Upstream Solutions: Biodegradable Fibers
Issues:
Image sources: Mango Materials
Scaling-up Production Effectiveness Unknown Potential Consumer Confusion
Fiber fully
biodegrades within
a few weeks at
WWTPs
Fiber fully
biodegrades within
6 weeks in other
water bodies
Energy efficient, cheap to produce

17. Upstream Solutions: Biodegradable Fibers
Image sources: Filson, Textile Learner
Regenerative Wool (Cellulosic)
Issues:
Opportunity to
lab-grow wool fibers
CostlyScaling-Up Production
Odor resistant
Wrinkle-free
Stretchy
Breathable
Machine washable
Regenerative agriculture: farming
practices that build soil health and
fertility, manage grazing to improve
plant health, and boost water retention
and percolation = Sequesters CO2.

18. Policies: Microbead Ban Case Study
Image sources: Charcoal & Body, BBC
2015: AB 888 was passed in California
Prohibited the sale of personal care
products containing microbeads, e.g.
soap, shampoo and toothpaste
2018: The Microbead-Free Waters
Act made microbeads illegal in the
United States
Issues: only addressed certain
products, microbeads are not
necassary ingredients, unlike
microfibers

19. Policies: US-Based
Passed
Proposed
SB 1263: Ocean Protection Council (OPC): statewide microplastic strategy, assess risks and seek
solutions (California).
SB 1422: Water Resource Control Board: adopt a definition for microplastics, and establish a
standard to test drinking water - MP levels in drinking water disclosed to the public (California).
AB 1549: Requires fashion brands to conspicuously label
garments that are composed of 50% or more synthetic fiber
as microfiber pollutants (NY).
AB 129: Labelling standards + requiring laundromats and
other public entities to install filtration to capture microfibers
during washing (Califronia).
apparel
NYC
MEDIUM
100% Polyester
This garment is made from 50% synthetic
material or more. This contributes to
microplastic pollution. Handwashing and
line drying is advised

20. Recommendations for NYC
Add-On Filtration: research needed for funding plan, lifecycle analysis,
collection + recycling program + transportation emissions
Washing Machines with Integrated Filtration: potential to establish a bill
requiring built-in filtration, similarly to dryers
WWTPs: more research into sustainable sludge conversion and the addition of
plastic-eating microbes
1
2
3

21. Recommendations for NYC
NYC
MEDIUM
100% Polyester
This garment is made from 50% synthetic
material or more. This contributes to
microplastic pollution. Handwashing and
line drying is advised
apparel Microfiber Labelling: labelling synthetic garments as MF pollutants,
suggesting hand washing = consumer awareness, better washing habits
Consumer Awareness: disclosing microplastic levels in drinking water
promotes awareness = motivates consumers to put pressure on brands to
change
Taxing Fashion Brands on Synthetic Garments: encourages industry
change, money accrued goes to MF research + mitigation
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5
6

22. Recommendations for The Fashion Industry
Invest in Bioengineered + Cellulosic Fibers: larger orders = lower
prices, uplifting small businesses + higher quality garments mean less waste +
washing
Avoid Greenwashing: fiber biodegradability should not be
exaggerated, clear messaging to avoid cosumer confusion. Be transparent
about shedding potential
1
2
Band Together: share knowledge, insights and break-throughs to shift
the industry and uplift as a collective
3

23. Recommendations for YOU
Read your care labels: learn about what you are wearing
Buy natural, if possible: includes organic cotton, wool, tencel and silk
Hand wash + line dry, if possible: avoids MF pollution, saves water,
detergent and excess energy emissions
Wash on cold cycle + minimize detergent: high tempretures and
detergents increase shedding
Use MF reducing products: includes high tech wash bag, the Guppy-
Friend, MF-capturing ball, the Cora Ball, or monofilament garment wash bag
1
2
3
4
5
NYC
MEDIUM
100% Polyester
This garment is made from 50% synthetic
material or more. This contributes to
microplastic pollution. Handwashing and
line drying is advised
apparel

24. THANK YOU FOR LISTENING