Shoes made form spinning waste, from Card Sliver

1. BAHIR DAR UNIVRSITY
Institute of Technology for Textile, Garment and
Fashion Design
Fabrication of Footwear made from
waste Sized Yarn
By
Enquzer Getachew
Jemal Assres

2. Table of Contents
Executive Summary ..........................................Error! Bookmark not defined.
Objective of the Project.................................................................................... 1
Statement of the problem................................................................................ 2
IDEA.................................................................Error! Bookmark not defined.
Concept Development ..................................................................................... 3
Technical Feasibility........................................................................................ 4
Cost Analysis ............................................................................................... 4
Background .................................................................................................... 5
Parts of a Shoe............................................................................................. 5
Raw material Required.................................................................................... 5
Shoe Making Procedure................................................................................... 6
Sample ........................................................................................................... 8
Description of Product.................................................................................. 8
Functional test results and interpretation ......Error! Bookmark not defined.
Newness of the Product and Commercialization............................................... 9
Conclusion...................................................................................................... 9

3. 1
Introduction
Woven fabric is obtained from yarns by weaving. Weaving is the
interlacing of two systems of yarns, which interlaced at right angle to
each other. The lengthwise threads are called warp while the crosswise
threads are called weft.
During weaving process, the warp yarn is subjected to a considerable
friction and the action of variable stretching forces. As the result, the yarn
becomes damaged and single fibers are detached from it, which finally results
end breakage, machine stoppage and considerable quality degradation on the
final woven product.
Hence, the warp yarn should be subjected to a special treatment known
as Sizing to make it more resistant for the complex weaving stress and reduce
the resulting end breakage.
The primary purpose of warp sizing is to produce a warp which will undergo
the least damage in weaving. But the process produces unrecyclable waste
named hard waste that can no longer be used in the weaving process.
We thought of a way to use the sized hard waste for footwear production by
doubling 6 yarns together (6-ply yarn) that is woven using hand weaving
machine.
Footwear is defined as garments that are worn on the feet. The new product
is a light, comfortable and attractive shoe.
Objective of the Project
The objective is to develop Standard Shoe from Sizing hard waste. This
product will have the standard strength, comfort and can be used by adults of
any age and gender.

4. 2
Statement of the problem
Due to many reasons like money value depreciation and high cost of raw
materials the cost of shoe is increasing rapidly. And the poor can no longer
afford these shoes due to the low living standard and lack of job opportunity.
There must be an innovative way that this society can fulfill their needs
and even start small scale industries of their own. They can have what they
want and create job opportunity for others. One method to achieve this is by
using wastes from large scale industries like textile factories. This simple
project can help them achieve this goal.
In textile industries Sizing process requires high level of capital and
resources. But due to many production problems it produces waste. This waste
cannot be reprocessed. The waste is a strong yarn but it is sold for local market
with a very cheap price and is used usually as a mop to clean floors.
But this waste has properties like proper strength and flexibility to be
utilized for other purposes like the top part of a shoe.

5. 3
Concept Development
The primary purpose of warp sizing is to produce a warp which will suffer
the least damage in weaving. But the process produces unrecyclable waste. The
causes for this waste are
 Excess length of size warp yarn than required
 Entanglement and breakdown of yarn caused by improper size pickup
 Sticking of warp sheets and with drying cylinder surface
 During beam change
Because of the above problems in production, sizing process produces a
large amount of hard waste that is commonly sold to the local market which is
used for cleaning floors.
When these yarns are twisted with each other they become stronger and
resist lateral and longitudinal forces. A fabric made from these yarn will resist
multidirectional forces like tearing and bursting forces which is necessary to
protect our feet.
By making a 6 ply yarn because at this number the yarn becomes stronger
and still retains its flexibility that is good for the comfort and also will pass
through the eye of the dents and reed of the hand weaving machine.
A fabric is produced by using this yarn after the required length of yarn is
prepared. We use plain fabric weave structure as it is simple; strong which is
able resist snagging and rubbing forces. And it has good structural rigidity.
This fabric can be used as the body of the footwear covering the feet all around.
A sole is then attached underneath by using super glue and a strong stitch.
The process of separating the sized waste is using hands. It requires very
small effort to separate this yarns form each other. It can be done with one
person for one shoe and will take 1 up to 2 hours because separating and
making the ply yarns (doubling) can be done simultaneously.
After making 6-ply yarns, the weaving process can be done with a hand
loom. The basic purpose of hand loom is to hold the warp threads under
tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads.
The process will be a totally new and easy way of production which
requires less time, energy and low initial investment cost.

6. 4
Technical Feasibility
The product can be manufactured using locally available hand looms. The
raw material is readily available from any Preparatory Department of Weaving
in any Textile Factory, For example the row material is readily available in
Bahir Dar Textile Share Company.
The easy plane design of the fabric takes small amount of time. A single
shoe requires small amount of raw materials and man power. A group of
entrepreneurs can produce the product with small capital investment and
minimum raw material cost.
A small business intersperse can be established for mass production of this
product with a low capital. This is especially ideal for opening new working
opportunities for the society who could not find work because they have not
been educated.
Any local weavers can readily implement this method of production with no
extra cost of processing because the weaving process can be done in any
weaving machine.
Shoe making is also an art in which everyone can apply their creativity and
imagination to produce attractive products.
Cost Analysis
Item no Material Required(to make a pair of shoes) Cost
1 Sized waste 15 birr/killo
2 Plastic sole 20 birr/pair
3 Super glue 60 birr
4 Elastomer 1 birr /meter
5 Chemicals (optional) -----------
6 Hand loom (optional) 4000birr
Total cost 96 birr

7. 5
Background
Parts of a Shoe
A shoe consists of sole, insole,
outsole, midsole and vamp (upper).
They are the basic parts of a shoe
that are mostly included in all
types of shoes.
Sole: The exterior bottom part of a
shoe is the sole.
Insole: The interior bottom of a
shoe, which sits directly beneath
the foot, is its insole. They can be removable and replaceable too. In some of
the shoes, extra insoles are often added for comfort, health or other reasons,
such as to control the shape, moisture, or smell of the shoe.
Outsole: It is that layer of the shoe that is in direct contact with the ground.
These can be made of various materials like leather, natural or synthetic
rubber etc. Often the heel of the sole is made from rubber for durability.
Vamp, or upper: The upper part of a shoe that helps in holding the shoe onto
the foot is the vamp or simply called the upper. This part is often embellished
or given different styles to make shoes attractive.
Raw material required
The main raw materials used in the shoe making process are
 Sizing hard waste yarn,
 waste fabric for insole
 Rubber shoe sole purchased from local market.
 Color, Printing Paste (optional)

8. 6
Shoe Making Procedure
A footwear making process has mainly 10 stages in which a progressive
route is followed for producing finished shoes after planning and designing.
This are-
1. Waste collection – collecting hard wastes from Sizing department of
Textile Factories
2. Opening and paralleling the hard waste into individual yarns – this is
perhaps the longest process. It involves removal of entanglement of
yarns.
3. Making 6 ply yarns for both warp and weft by twisting 6 single yarns
together.
4. Weaving Process - starting from denting to weaving.
5. Washing and Printing – wash the fabric to remove any dirt caused by
the weaving process. Then we used pigment printing to print the fabric.
Pigment printing is ideal for printing on any surface with a good washing
fastness. We have not used any screen since we just wanted to print the
color on the fabric. The recipe for the Printing process is the following.
Pigment 2%
Thickener 2%
Binder 40%
Urea 2%
Ammonium Sulphate 1%
Water and Thinker 53%
The printing procedure is simple. It starts by mixing the thickener with
water and stirring it until we get uniform solution. Then prepare binder and
the urea with the required amount, mix them with ammonium sulphate in
water and stir. Add the solution on the thickener until we get a uniform
solution. And lastly add the pigment and stir again until the solution is
completely colored with it.
Apply the printing solution on the fabric and apply a constant pressure
with a squeegee and move it back and forth until every part of the fabric is
printed.
Note- Printing is not necessary if the chemicals are not available. It is
only for decorative purpose. The Shoe maker can use different methods for

9. 7
decorating purposes like gluing decorative ornaments. It is purely based on
his/hers imagination.
6. Marking the sections to be cut to match our design with pencil
7. Cutting the sections followed by assembling process
The assembling process includes alignment of seam to be sewed with
necessary stitch type and sewing thread. Edge styles are done onto the
fabric for giving its attractiveness. A shoe template is used to make the
three-dimensional look to the finished upper and it is upper is no longer
flat. The quarter is reinforced with a thin sponge to make it rigid and
comfortable. The vamp and quarter are all interlined with a bleached
fabric that can absorb moisture from feet and transport it to the outside
air so that the feet remain cool during hot seasons.
8. Lasting & Molding to three dimensional shape
The completed uppers are molded into a shape of foot with the help of a
"Last". Last is a plastic shape that simulates the foot shape. It is later removed
from the finished shoe to be used further in making other shoes.
First, the insoles in this case are flat and when the uppers are 'lasted',
they are glued down to the surface of the inner side of the insole. The part of
the upper, that is glued down. The soles are prepared as a separate component
so that when they are glued to the lasted upper, the result is a complete and
finished shoe. For further reinforcement of the shoe, we used a strong yarn to
stitch the upper with the sole.
9. Finishing
The fabric is given an attractive finish and to ensure that the edge is not
frayed, we use stitch bonding to prevent any falling out of yarn form the
structure.
A 140 by 90 (length vs. Width) hand loom machine is used for the weaving
process

10. 8
Sample
Description of Product
Size - European model #36
Fabric design – plane with 6-ply yarn
Weight – 187.5 gm
Max Height – 6 cm
Color – Red
Figure 2 – Sample made
Figure 1– Standard Shoe Sizes (the sample size is within the rectangle)

11. 9
Result
The finished shoe is strong because it is made from strong plane structured
fabric with 6-ply yarn. In plane structure every warp is interlaced with every
weft and there is no float in the design, minimizing presence of any weak points
in the fabric design.
The sole is attached with the fabric with a strong double knot stitch
reinforced by using super glue. Our method of production is a carefully
designed with articulated precision to produce a comfortable and reliable
product.
Newness of the Product and Commercialization
Our method of production is new which utilized an innovative use of waste
products to produce the shoes. We have not found any similar product made
form waste materials locally or on the internet. Our work is original.
The product can be produced with minimum capital and resources by small
industry.
Local entrepreneurs can make mass product by employing people with
minimum education level because of very low sophistication of production
process. Shoe making is also an art, people can add their imagination and have
their own design.
Conclusion
Form our findings we have concluded that a functional product like shoes,
belts, bags, carpets and others can also be made from waste materials if
imagination is used. The process can make the individual or groups a very
profitable business opportunity.