Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric

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Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric

  1. 1. 3rd season of country’s first ever competition for textile, garment & fashion design students. Development of Denim effect on knitted fabric Prepared by: Md. Salim Azad Didar TTH ID: SEU-10 Department of Textile Engineering SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY Mobile: 01671412254 Email: salim_didar16@hotmail.com
  2. 2. The growth paradox Courtesy: Bangladesh Textile Today
  3. 3. Growth in Knit & Woven Exports Courtesy: Bangladesh Textile Today
  4. 4. How Far are we? X
  5. 5. About Denim • The story of jeans begins in the mid19th century simultaneously in two European cities: Nîmes in France, where the fabric itself was created, the socalled “Serge de Nîmes” which led to the name “denim”. • The classical denim is a heavy fabric made from 100% cotton and woven from coarse indigo dyed warp and grey undyed weft yarn. • The traditional denim is hard- wearing, high density fabrics with a high mass per unit area and a 3/1 or 2/1- twill weave and 1/1 chambray construction.
  6. 6. Comfortable Risky Adventurous Relaxing Glamorous Attractive Aggressive Smart Casual Dynamic Energetic Fashionable Universal LIFESTYLE
  7. 7. World Market Analysis
  8. 8. World Market Analysis • The world market for denim jeans is projected to exceed $65 billion by the year 2015. • This is primarily driven by a rapid rise in the number of customers purchasing denim jeans that offer better fit, superior style, durable quality, and an affordable price tag. • Denim is the most preferred clothing of today’s youth and accounts about 3% of total world fabric production. • Conventional woven denim is not as soft in texture as other knit fabrics and so applications of denim in fashion design is limited. • The immense numbers of almost two billion pairs of jeans are produced each year, claiming about 10 percent of the worldwide cotton harvest
  9. 9. Denim in Bangladesh • Bangladesh has come up as the third most important exporter of denim apparel to US after Mexico and China and second highest to EU after China. • Bangladesh is also one of the cheapest production centers for apparel around the world. • In Bangladesh the market for denims is dominated only by jeans wear. Therefore we need to focus on fashionable elements on denim fabric. • This lead to the idea of creating denim effect on knitted fabric.
  10. 10. Woven fabric Knit Fabric
  11. 11. Why knit Denim • • • • • • Value addition Softness Stretch ability Comfort Pliability Breathability
  12. 12. Knitted denim creating new business opportunities Recent survey on children’s denim products showed that • comfort, • softness and easy care, Parents and Children • lightweight and • fabric quality of the attributes. Knitted denim fabric with its • delicate structure, • clear lines, • soft, breathable comfort, • playing quality thin features is the ultimate solution putting both fashion and comfort in balance.
  13. 13. With the varieties of knitted denim continues to expand, knit denim can be used as •Absorbent, •Antibacterial •Health Care Purposes, as well as in • T Shirts, •Children's Clothing, •Sleepwear, •Underwear, •Sportswear, •Casual Wear, •Fashion, Etc.
  14. 14. Woven Denim Production Process Flow Chart • Cotton → Spinning mills → Yarn → Dying & sizing factories → Weaving → Denim fabric → Finishing → Cut and sew → Garment washing factories → Quality inspection & Packaging→ Wholesale markets Retailers → Consumers Rope Dyeing Weaving
  15. 15. Flow Chart of knit denim Yarn Yarn Indigo dyeing of yarn Yarn Dyeing Beams are created knitting Converted to Indigo cheese Finishing Reactive dye process Knitting Finishing Indigo dye process
  16. 16. Comparison between woven and knitted denims Woven Knitted Rigid Highly extensible Easy to tear Difficult to tear Gets Crease And Wrinkled easily Highly Crease resistant Stiffer Limb Air Permeability is Less Air Permeability is More
  17. 17. Merits of knitted denim The knitted denim offers the following advantages in comparison with its woven counterpart:  The comfort ability of knit denim garments is better than woven denim garments.  It mold and move easily with body movement.  Its stretch ability is good.  It resists wrinkles.  Knit fabrics are soft and drape well.  Air Permeability is more in knit fabrics  Most important perhaps is that knits relate well to contemporary life-styles.
  18. 18. Popular Denim Brands & buyers
  19. 19. Knit Denim products
  20. 20. Products • • • • • • • • Stretch denim Capris Jumpers Vest Leggings Woman shorts Skirts Denim blouse • • • • • • • • Pajamas Denim Skinny jeans Jacket Denim cardigan Denim Shirt T shirt Polo Shirt Children jeans
  21. 21. Methodology
  22. 22. Yarn Details • Yarn Type : 100% cotton combed yarn, ring spun • Yarn count : 24/1 • Yarn origin : India “Shankar” • CSP : 2420 • IPI : 29.8 • CV% : 7.0 • TPI : 17.74 • Type of twist : Z twist • M/C brand for producing yarn : Rieter
  23. 23. Figure: Yarn package Photo Courtesy: Akij Textile Mills Ltd.
  24. 24. Yarn Dyeing Photo Courtesy: Knit Concern yarn dyeing Ltd.
  25. 25. Yarn Dyeing Machine Specification Machine type : Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine Brand : Fongs Origin : China Yarn quantity given for dyeing : 6.4 kg Yarn quantity received after dyeing : 6.18 kg
  26. 26. Flow Chart of yarn Dyeing Grey yarn received Soft winding Batching Yarn Dyeing in Package form Hydro extractor Dryer Rewinding Packing Delivery
  27. 27. Yarn Dyeing Recipe • • • • • Total Weight of Yarn: Liquor ratio: No. of cone: Yarn Type: Dye color: 6.4 Kg 1:10 8 24/1 Ne Navy blue Dyeing(Dyes and Chemicals): • Dekol-SN: 1.5 g/L • Triplex-2146: 0.3 g/L • Parma. NF: 0.25 g/L • Rema. 4% Red RGB : 2.024 g/L • Rema. 4% Navy RGB : 3.76 g/L • Glauber salt: 80 g/L • Soda: 5 g/L • Caustic: 2 g/L • Temperature: 90 ◦C • Time: 40 min • PH: 6.00
  28. 28. YARN DYEING Sample Yarn Dyeing Machine Hydro extractor
  29. 29. YARN DYEING Radio Frequency Dryer Rewinding Photo Courtesy : knit concern yarn Dyeing Ltd.
  30. 30. Knitting
  31. 31. Knitting Methods Yarn Type: 100% cotton combed yarn, ring spun • • • • • • • • Yarn count CSP IPI CV TPI Dyed yarn : 6.18 kg; Grey yarn : 6 kg; Lycra : 40 D; : 24/1 Ne :2420 :29.8 :7.0 : 17.74 No. of cones = 51 No. of cones = 48 No. of cones = 48
  32. 32. Knitting Machine specification • Machine type • • • • • • • Brand Model Cylinder Diameter Needle gauge Number of feeder Number of needle Rotation : Single jersey Circular knitting machine : Well Run : SHS-90 : 32” : 24 G : 96 : 2412 : Anticlockwise
  33. 33. Cleaning before Installation Cleaning of CAMs Cleaning of cylinders
  34. 34. Sinker CAM & Sinker Arrangement Figure : Sinker placement Figure: Sinker CAM Figure: Placement of Sinker CAM
  35. 35. Needle Setup Figure : Needle Setup
  36. 36. CAM Setup Figure: CAM setup
  37. 37. Yarn Setup Figure : Yarn Feeding
  38. 38. Lycra Attachment & Stitch Length Setup Figure : Lycra Attachment Figure : Stitch Length Setting
  39. 39. Maintaining Tension Figure : Tension of the Yarn maintained Take Down Figure : Fabric Takedown
  40. 40. Inspection Figure :Fabric Inspection Photo Courtesy: Shohan knit Composite
  41. 41. Details On Produced Fabrics N.B.: B= Blue Yarn; W= White Yarn
  42. 42. N.B.: B= Blue Yarn; W= White Yarn
  43. 43. Data Analysis Experimental Data on Knit Denim Experimental Data for Woven Denim
  44. 44. Visual Comparison Of Knit and woven Denim Tuck Denim Knit Denim Woven Denim
  45. 45. Shrinkage
  46. 46. Spirality
  47. 47. Color fastness to wash
  48. 48. GSM before wash
  49. 49. GSM after wash
  50. 50. Fabric production cost: 24/1 Ne 100% cotton combed yarn price Cost of 100 Kg of yarn = 4.5x100 =$4.5 per Kg = $450 Yarn Dyeing cost Process loss Actual yarn dyed Yarn dyeing cost for 96 kg = $2.5 per Kg = 4% = 96 Kg =$240 Knitting cost Process loss Actual Fabric to be produced Knitting cost for 93kg yarn = $0.31 per Kg = 7% = 93kg =$28.83 Total Cost= $450 + 240+28.83 =$718.83 Total cost to produce 1 kg of Knit Denim = $7.73 per kg
  51. 51. Further developments 1. Knitting with indigo dyed yarn of proper flexibility in cone form 2. Fading effect on reactive dyed yarn by advanced garments washing technology 3. Creating options for cost minimization by knitting with rotor yarn, polyester etc. 4. Creating new designs using other knitting machineries. And more….
  52. 52. Conclusion • To earn more= To invest more • Adding value to our product is the ultimate solution to boost and sustain in the future • The two fabrics that got developed during this research are softer and comfortable as well as less complicated to be produced. • Knit denim is the fabric of the future, a future that we must understand and adapt so as to survive in this competitive market.
  53. 53. Message • Value Addition • Technical textile • Nanotechnology • Non woven • Plasma Technology • Composite material “I Believe”
  54. 54. Acknowledgement • Md. Mahamudul Islam, Lecturer • Prof. Fakhrul Hasan Murad, Chairman, Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University • Prof. A.N.M Ahmedullah, • Prof. Dr. Shah Mohammad Fatah –Ur- Rahman Shohan Knit Composite Knit Concern Yarn Dyeing Ltd. Akij Textile mills Ltd.
  55. 55. Thank You…
  56. 56. QUESTIONS

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