A overview of Impress Newtex Composite Textiles Limited,Mirjapur,Tangail,Bangladesh. We made this report for our Industrial attachment at one of the leading textile factory in Bangladesh. We spend very good time in this Industry. All the employees are very helpful and thats why we learnt a lot in our academic life.

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Sheikh Kamal Textile Engineering College
Aruakandi, Madhupur, Jhenaidah.
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
at
Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd
Gorai Industrial Area, Mirzapur, Tangail
Submitted by:
Name of Student ID
Md. Tanjidur Rahman J201814002
Lokman Hossen J201814003
Md Sohanur Rahman Shah J201814005
Umme Mahmuda Anwar J201814008
Nazmun Nahar Tresha J201814010
Md Sajal Hossain J201814020
Abdur Rahim J201814024
Emran Kabir Subarno J201813021
Supervisor
Yasmin Nahar Shila
Lecturer (Technical)
Sheikh Kamal Textile Engineering College, Jhenaidah.

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Sheikh Kamal Textile Engineering College,Jhenaidah
Department of Apparel Engineering & Wet Process Engineering
Course Title: AE & WPE Industrial Attachment
Course Code: AE 416 & WPE 414
This Industrial Report entitled “Report on Industrial Attachment At
Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles LTD’’ completed from 3 June 2023 to 31
July 2023 prepared and submitted by Md. Tanjidur Rahman, Lokman Hossen, Md
Sohanur Rahman Shah, Umme Mahmuda Anwar, Nazmun Nahar Tresha, Md Sajal
Hossain, Abdur Rahim and Emran Kabir Subarno in partial fulfillment of the
requirement for the Degree of Bachelor of Science (B.Sc.) in Textile Engineering
advance in Fabric Engineering.
Supervisor:
Yasmin Nahar Shila
Lecturer (Technical)
Sheikh Kamal Textile Engineering College, Jhenaidah

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
First, we praise the almighty Allah who gave us grace to successfully complete this
industrial work.
With sincerity, we extend our warm and deep appreciation and gratitude to our
supervisor Yasmin Nahar Shila, Head of Apparel Engineering Department of Sheikh
Kamal Textile Engineering College, for his unreserved guidance and support to come
up with this industrial attachment work. Being working with him, I have not only earned
valuable knowledge but were also inspired by his innovativeness which helped to enrich
my experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable.
We are also thankful to Md. Firoze Khandakar, Principal of Sheikh Kamal Textile
Engineering College.
We would like to thank all employee of Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd for
giving us all necessary data to complete this industrial attachment. They were so much
helpful to us to complete our industrial attachment report.
We want to give little admiration to Muhammad Zanibul Haque sir (Senior Manager
of Research & Development) for allowing us for internship. Thanks to A.K. Azad sir
(Assistant Manager of Research & Development) our internship supervisor for his
excellent follow-up. And, thanks to Zahid Hasan sir (Assistant Manager of Dyeing),
Md Milon Hossain sir (Manager-All Over Print), and many other who are helping to
achieve required knowledge from the industry.
Finally, we express our sincere gratitude to our father, mother for their continuous
support, ideas and love.

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Table of Contents
Chapter 1
Introduction: .................................................................................................11
1.1 Company Profile: ........................................................................................................13
1.2 Mission & Vision of Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd ..................................14
1.3 Objectives of Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd ............................................. 14
1.4 Code of ethics of Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd ....................................... 15
1.5 Certification ................................................................................................................. 15
1.6 Buyer List ....................................................................................................................16
1.7 Sister Concern ............................................................................................................ 17
Chapter 2
Knitting Department ...................................................................................18
2.1 Organogram of knitting section at INTCL ................................................................19
2.2 Layout of knitting section ......................................................................................... 21
2.3 List of Circular knitting Machine with Specification................................................ 22
2.4 Raw materials used.................................................................................................... 26
2.4.1 Yarn............................................................................................................................ 26
2.4.2 Types of Yarn ............................................................................................................ 26
2.5 Different types of Yarn used in knit production ....................................................... 26
2.6 Production Flowchart of Knitting ............................................................................. 27
2.7 Knitting...................................................................................................................... 28
2.7.1 Different terms & definition of Knitting .................................................................28
2.8 Types of Knitted fabric ............................................................................................. 30
2.8.1 Single Jersey Fabric ........................................................................................... 30
2.8.2 Double Jersey Fabric.......................................................................................... 30
2.8.3 Difference between Single Jersey Fabric and Double Jersey Fabric ................. 30
2.8.4 Rib Fabric........................................................................................................... 32
2.8.5 Interlock Fabric .................................................................................................. 32
2.8.6 Comparison between Rib and Interlock circular knitting machine ................... 32
2.9 Common Knitting Faults with Causes and Remedies .................................... 34
2.10 Quality Assurance System of Knitting Department ........................................ 37
2.11 Some necessary Knitting calculations ............................................................ 38
2.18 Method of Increasing Production .................................................................... 39

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Chapter 3
Color Lab or Lab Dip .......................................................................40
3.1 Lab Dip ..................................................................................................................... 41
3.2 Lab-dip workflow ..................................................................................................... 41
3.3 Color Lab Machine Quantity..................................................................................... 42
3.4 Sample Dyeing Machine specification ...................................................................... 42
3.5 Buyer Required Light sources for Light Box ............................................................ 42
3.6 Panton Book .............................................................................................................. 43
3.6.1 History of Pantone ............................................................................................. 44
3.6.2 Importance of Pantone Color Guide in Textile Industry ................................... 44
3.6.3 Types of Pantone Color Guides ......................................................................... 44
3.6.4 Differences Between the Shades of TCX and TPX ........................................... 44
Chapter 4
Dyeing Department .........................................................................45
4.1 Batching ................................................................................................................... 47
4.1.1 Function or Purpose of Batch Section ............................................................... 47
4.1.2 Machine Specification of Batch Section ........................................................... 47
4.2 Dyeing .............................................................................................................. 47
4.2.1 History of Dyeing ............................................................................................. 47
4.2.2 Types of dyes .................................................................................................... 48
4.3 Dyeing Methods used in INCTL ...................................................................... 48
4.3.1 Dyeing Machine specification (Sample) .......................................................... 48
4.3.2 Dyeing Machine specification (Bulk) .............................................................. 49
4.4 Flow Chart for Dyeing ............................................................................................. 50
4.5 Different types of chemicals used in INCTL ........................................................... 50
4.6 Pretreatment .............................................................................................................. 51
4.7 Typical Process Flow Chart of Cotton Dyeing ......................................................... 52
4.8 Typical Process Flow Chart of Cotton Polyester Dyeing ......................................... 54
4.9 Common Dyeing Faults with Causes and Remedies ................................................ 56

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Chapter 5
Physical Lab ..................................................................................... 56
5.1 Textile Testing......................................................................................................... 57
5.2 Objects of Fabrics Testing....................................................................................... 57
5.3 Equipment for physical test ..................................................................................... 57
5.4 Tests performed in knit dyeing................................................................................ 57
5.4.1 Color fastness to light ...................................................................................... 58
5.4.2 Color fastness to washing (ISO 105C06) ......................................................... 58
5.4.3 Color fastness to perspiration............................................................................ 58
5.4.4 Color fastness to rubbing test ........................................................................... 58
5.4.5 Dimension stability to wash ............................................................................. 58
5.4.6 C/F to Saliva .................................................................................................... 59
5.4.7 pH measurement ............................................................................................... 59
5.5 Lab Machines ............................................................................................................. 59
Chapter 6
Garments ......................................................................................... 64
6.1 CAD ........................................................................................................................ 64
6.2 Purpose of using CAD in Garments ........................................................................ 64
6.3 Advantages of CAD Software ................................................................................. 65
6.4 Disadvantages of CAD Drawing or Drafting in Apparel Sector ............................. 65
6.5 Some terms & definitions of CAD ........................................................................... 65
6.5.1 Pattern ............................................................................................................... 65
6.5.2 Spreading .......................................................................................................... 66
6.6 Marker ...................................................................................................................... 67
6.6.1 Types of Marker ............................................................................................. 67
6.6.2 Marker efficiency ........................................................................................ 68
6.6.3 Factors on which marker efficiency depends on .............................................68
Chapter 7
Cutting Department ....................................................................... 69
7.1 Cutting ................................................................................................................... 69
7.2 Objectives of cutting ............................................................................................... 69
7.3 Process flow of Cutting Department ....................................................................... 70
7.4 Method of Cutting Departments .............................................................................. 71

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7.5 Types of wastage in Cutting section ....................................................................... 73
7.6 Reasons of fabric wastage ..................................................................................... 73
7.7 List of Cutting and Spreading Defects Found in Quality Inspection ..................... 74
Chapter 8
Printing Department ...................................................................... 75
8.1 Printing .................................................................................................................... 75
8.2 Printing ingredients ................................................................................................. 76
8.3 Methods of Printing ................................................................................................. 76
8.4 Types of Machine .................................................................................................... 77
8.5 Popular Fashion prints on fabric ............................................................................. 78
8.6 Common Printing Faults are given bellow with Causes and Remedies .................. 79
Chapter 9
IE & Planning ................................................................................. 80
9.1 Industrial Engineering – IE ..................................................................................... 80
9.2 Objective Of IE ....................................................................................................... 80
9.3 Major Parts of IE in Garments Industry .................................................................. 81
9.4 WORK STUDY ...................................................................................................... 81
9.5 Motion Study ........................................................................................................... 82
9.6 TIME STUDY ......................................................................................................... 82
9.7 Line Productivity Calculation ................................................................................. 83
9.8 Standard time study ................................................................................................. 84
9.9 Line Balancing ........................................................................................................ 88
9.9.1 Objectives of Line Balancing........................................................................... 88
9.9.2 Importance of Line Balancing ......................................................................... 89
9.9.3 Limitations of Line Balancing ......................................................................... 89
9.10 Production Planning & Control ............................................................................. 90
9.11 Garments Production Planning and Execution Factors ......................................... 90
Chapter 10
Sewing Department ........................................................................ 91
10.1 Sewing .....................................................................................................................91
10.2 Machine used in the sewing section ........................................................................ 97

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Chapter 11
Washing Department .................................................................. 103
11.1 Washing ................................................................................................................... 103
11.2 Objects of Garments Wash ...................................................................................... 103
11.3 Types of Garments Washing ................................................................................... 104
11.4 Different types of Knit Wash .................................................................................. 104
11.5 Garments Washing Defects ..................................................................................... 106
11.6 Some Washing Process ...........................................................................................106
11.6.1 Washing Process of Pigment Wash ................................................................. 107
11.6.2 Pigment dyeing process ................................................................................... 108
11.6.3 Silicon wash process ..................................................................................... 110
Chapter 12
Garments Merchandising Department .................................... 112
12.1 Merchandising ...................................................................................................... 113
12.2 Types Of Merchandising ......................................................................................... 113
12.3 Key responsibilities of merchandiser are as follows ............................................... 114
12.4 Process Flow Chart of Apparel or Garments Merchandising ................................. 114
12.5 Sample Development .............................................................................................. 115
12.6 Sequence of Garment Sample Development ........................................................... 116
12.7 Process Flow Chart of Proto Sample Development in Garment Industry .............. 117
12.8 Purchase order (PO) ................................................................................................ 117
12.9 Tech Pack .................................................................................................................. 118
12.10 Proforma Invoice (PI).............................................................................................. 119
12.11 TNA ......................................................................................................................... 121
12. 12 Trimming & Accessories .................................................................................... 123
Chapter 13
Water Treatment Plant (WTP) ..................................................... 125
13.1 Water Treatment ...................................................................................................... 125
13.2 Types of hardness .................................................................................................... 126
13.3 Measurement of Water Hardness ............................................................................ 127
13.4 Quality of the Water of the Dye house .................................................................... 127

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Chapter 14
Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) ................................................... 129
14.1 ETP .......................................................................................................................... 130
14.3 ETP process ............................................................................................................... 130
Chapter 15
Utilities ............................................................................................. 131
15.1 Available Utility Facilities ...................................................................................... 131
17.2 Electricity ................................................................................................................ 131
17.3 Boiler ......................................................................................................................…131
Chapter 16
Compliance ..................................................................................... 132
16.1 List of Compliance .................................................................................................... 133
Conclusion ..................................................................................... 135

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Introduction
INCTL is part of one of the largest conglomerates in the country, Impress Group. Where the
company’s interests venture into garments & textiles, pharmaceuticals, construction, print &
electronic media, aviation and trading. The Directors of the Group are Abdur Rashid Majumder,
Enayet Husain Siraj, Faridur Reza Sagar, Reaz Ahmed Khan, and Abdul Muqeed Majumdar.A
journey that began in 1978, today more than 22,000 employees and is a driving force in the
economy. Impress Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd. – INCTL employs nearly 10,000 people and
is a part of the RMG miracle that has catapulted Bangladesh into the second-largest global
apparels producer in the world.
Reaz Ahmed Khan, (Chairman)
Tariful Islam Taskeen, (Managing
Director & CEO)

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Company Profile:
Content Description
Company Name Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd
Type of Business Manufacture & Export
Year of established 2009
Total manpower 10,000+ (approximately)
Knitting Capacity 50 tons per day (approximately)
Dyeing Capacity 50 tons per day (approximately)
Dyeing Finishing Capacity 65 tons per day (approximately)
Brushing / Raising Capacity 12 tons per day (approximately)
Shearing Capacity 7 tons per day (approximately)
Peach Finish Capacity 7 tons per day (approximately)
Washing Capacity 10,000 pcs per day (approximately)
Printing Capacity 1,33,333 pcs per day (approximately)
Garments Capacity 1,56,666 pcs per day (approximately)
Products
T-shirts & Polo Shirts, Tank top, Sweat shirt, Zip Hood,
Basic Hood, Fleece jackets, Joggers, Leggings, Pajama sets,
Ladies & Girls dresses, Baby Romer, Baby Pajama set, Nights
wears.
Factory Gorai Industrial Area, Mirzapur, Tangail
Corporate Head office
Evergreen Plaza (6th Floor) 260/B Tejgaon Industrial Area
Dhaka 1208
Phone: +880-29830329-32
Fax: +880-2-9830337

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Mission & Vision of Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd:
Mission:
Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd.’s success is based on providing consistent quality and
reliability as a producer of apparels for the world. We aim to achieve and produce quality
services on time, while ensuring workers’ rights and safety in an environmentally friendly
corporate structure.
Vision:
Trust, honesty, equality, commitment to the environment and gaining customer gratification
encapsulate the values that INCTL cherishes above all else.
Values:
Since its inception, INCTL, with strong integrity towards its goal and fairness to its activities, seeks
for innovation and improvement. The Company creates a congenial employee-friendly environment
being loyal to its values and commitment and also ensuring the best customer satisfaction.
• Integrity
• Fairness
• Innovation
• Environment
• Commitment
• Customer satisfaction
Objectives of Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd:
• Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd.’s goal is to achieve zero tolerance in production
by upgrading total quality management and proper production management.
• Create a favorable image of world as a high-quality garment’s manufacturer and supplier.
• Train and develop a motivated and skilled workforce considering the “Quality of Life” for
the employees.
• To meet the appropriate expectation of clients.
• Provide Maximum Satisfaction to our valued customers.
• Latest design and talents at our work force.

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Code of ethics of Impress
- Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd:
a) Manufacturing and supply products and service of the highest quality and optimum
value.
b) Sustain a level of competence expected as a professional operator and only supply
such products and service for which Fakir Fashion Limited is suitably qualified.
c) Conduct all aspects of business in a professional and responsible manner.
d) Engage in fair and open competition based on truthful representation of products and
service offered.
e) Customer Satisfaction: Satisfy Customer with highest quality product, service &
support.
f) Excellence: Achieve excellence in people, creativity & imagination.
Certification:
ISO
Oeko
-Tex
ACORD
Better Work
BSCI
GOTS
GRS
CMiA

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Buyer List:
1. H&M
2. C&A
3. Puma
4. American Eagle
5. Tom Tailor
6. Jack & Jones
7. Only & Sons
8. Celio
9. BESTSELLER
10. Only
11. next
12. JACQUELINE de YONG
13. Farmers
14. Cotton On
15. hummel
16. The Warehouse Group
17. Carrefour
18. ALDI
19. LiDLE
20. Kaufland

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Sister Concern:

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CHAPTER-1
KNITTING DEPARTMENT

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Organogram of Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd.:
Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd. is well equipped with highly
efficient team of management, which is very essential for smooth running
of a factory.
Chairman
Managing Director
Director
Executive Director
Senior General Manager
General Manager
Deputy General Manager
Deputy Manager
Senior Manager
Assistant Manager
Senior Executive
Executive
Junior Executive
Supervisor
Operator
Assistan operator

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Organogram of Knitting section Impress Newtex Composite
Textiles Ltd:
Deputy General Manager
General Manager
Senior Manager
Assistant Manager
Senior Executive
Executive
Technical Officer
Assistant Technical Officer
Senior Supervisor
Assistant Manager
Supervisor
Senior Fitter
Fitter
Operator
Assistant operator

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Layout Of Knitting Section:

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List Of Circular Knitting Machine With Specification:
SL Brand Type Origin Dia Gauge Feeder
1 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 192
2 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 192
3 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 192
4 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 192
5 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 192
6 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 192
7 Fukuhara Single Japan 34 24 110
8 Fukuhara Single Japan 34 24 110
9 Fukuhara Single Japan 34 24 110
10 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 118
11 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 118
12 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
13 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
14 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
15 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
16 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
17 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
18 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
19 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
20 Fukuhara Single Japan 28 28 92
21 Fukuhara Single Japan 28 28 92
22 Fukuhara Single Japan 26 28 86
23 Fukuhara Single Japan 26 28 86
24 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 118
25 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
26 Fukuhara Single Japan 34 24 110
27 Fukuhara Single Japan 34 24 110
28 Fukuhara Single Japan 34 24 110
29 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 118
30 Fukuhara Single Japan 36 24 118
31 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
32 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
33 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
34 Fukuhara Single Japan 32 24 106
35 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
36 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
37 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
38 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
39 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
40 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
41 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98

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SL Brand Type Origin Dia Gauge Feeder
42 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
43 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
44 Fukuhara Single Japan 34 20 108
45 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
46 Fukuhara Single Japan 28 20 90
47 Fukuhara Single Japan 28 20 86
48 Fukuhara Single Japan 18 20 56
49 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
50 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
51 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
52 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
53 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
54 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
55 Fukuhara Rib Japan 34 18 74
56 Fukuhara Rib Japan 34 18 74
57 Hangning Interlock China 34 18 72
58 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 30 24 48
59 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 30 24 48
60 Goang Lih Rib Taiwan 30 18 96
61 Fukuhara Rib Japan 38 18 86
62 Fukuhara Rib Japan 38 18 86
63 Fukuhara Rib Japan 38 18 86
64 Fukuhara Rib Japan 36 18 70
65 Hangning Rib China 30 18 66
66 Santec Rib Switzerland 30 18 60
67 Hangning Rib China 30 18 66
68 Hangning Rib China 30 18 66
69 Santec Rib Switzerland 36 18 72
70 Hangning Rib China 30 18 66
71 Hangning Rib China 38 18 84
72 Fukuhara Single Japan 30 24 98
73 Runshun Single India 34 20 108
74 Santec Rib Switzerland 30 18 66
75 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 102
76 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 102
77 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 102
78 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
79 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
80 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
81 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
82 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
83 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108

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S.L Brand Type Origin Dia Gauge Feeder
84 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
85 Goang Lih Rib Taiwan 38 18 86
86 Goang Lih Rib Taiwan 38 18 86
87 Goang Lih Rib Taiwan 38 18 86
88 Goang Lih Rib Taiwan 38 18 86
89 Goang Lih Rib Taiwan 38 18 86
90 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
91 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
92 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
93 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
94 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
95 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
96 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
97 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
98 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
99 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108
100 Goang Lih Single Taiwan 34 20 108

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Raw materials used:
Yarn:
A continuous strand of twisted textile fibers is called yarn. Generally, yarn is a
continuous strand which is made up of filament, fibers or materials where the materials
are suitable for knitting, weaving, otherwise forming a textile fabric.
Types of Yarn:
1. Mainly
a. Staple yarn.
b. Single.
c. Simple.
d. Filament yarn.
e. Piled or folded.
f
f. Complex.
2. On the direction of twist
a. Z twisted yarn.
b. S twisted yarn.
3. Based on spinning machine used
a. Ring yarn.
b. Rotor yarn.
4. Based on processing
a. Combed yarn.
b. Carded yarn.
Different types of Yarn used in knit
production:
Organic cotton, BCI cotton, Slub yarn, Siro yarn, Polyester
yarn, Viscous, Linen, Lycra, Rotor yarn, Modal yarn, Metal
blended yarn etc.
Raw materials used:
Fiber composition Count Yarn type
Cotton 7, 10, 12, 13, 16, 20, 30 &
16, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 80,
Carded and Combed
PC 16, 20, 30, 45 Carded and Combed
CVC 12.5, 20, 30, 38, 40, 45, 26/2 Combed

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Viscose 16, 20, 30, 40 Combed
Spandex 20D, 40D
Polyester 70D, 75D, 100D, 120D,150D
Table. Raw Materials Used
Process flow chart of circular knitting section of INCTL:
Receive Booking from Merchandiser
Yarn Requesting for order
Make knitting program
Production Planning
Prepare Knit Card
Make Requisition for Yarn
Collect Yarn from Store
Hang Knit Card at Machine
Setup Machine
Follow Knitting Operation
Roll Marking
Send roll to QC check
Delivered to store

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Knitting:
Knitting is a process of fabric forming by the intermeshing
the loops of yarns. When one loop is drawn through
another, loops are formed in horizontal or vertical
direction.
Knitting is defined as the construction of fabric by
interlocking loops of a single yarn with the help of hooked needles. Knitting is the
method of creating fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn into a series of
interlocking loops, each raw of such loops hanging from the one immediately
preceding it. Interloping consists of forming yarns into loops, each of which is
typically only released after a succeeding loop has been formed and intermeshed
with it so that a secure ground loop structure is achieved. The loops are also held
together by the yarn passing from one to the next.
Classification of knitting section:
Course and Wales:
Course:
• The series of loops those are connected horizontally, continuously are called
as course.
• The horizontal row of loops that are made by adjacent needles in the same
knitting cycle.
Wales:
• The series of loops that intermeshes vertically are known as Wales.
• Vertical column of loops that are made from same needle in successive
knitting cycle.
Knitting
Flat knitting
Single jersey Double
jersey
Circular knitting
Warp knitting Warp knitting
Different terms & definition of Knitting:

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Stitch length:
The length of yarn required to produce a complete knitted loop (i.e., Needle loop and sinker
loop) is known as stitch length or loop length.
Stitch Length =
Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needle loop and half the sinker loop on
either side of it. Generally, the larger the stitch length, the more extensible and lighter the
fabric and the poorer the cover and bursting strength.
A course length:
The length of yarn required to produce a complete knitted course is known as course length.
In weft knitted fabrics, a course of loops is composed of a single length of yarn termed a
course length.
Course length = No. of loops per course × Stitch length Course length
= No. of needles × Stitch length
Stitch density:
Stitch density refers to the total number of loops in a measured area of fabric. It is the total
number of needle loops in a given area (such as a square inch)
Stitch density = Wales density × Courses density
= Wales per inch × Courses per inch
= WPI × CPI (inch scale)
= CPC × WPC (cm scale)
Machine Gauge:
The number of needles present in one inch of a needle bed is called machine gauge. It is
denoted by G.
Needle Pitch:
The distance between two neighboring needles or space required for each needle is called
needle pitch.
1
𝑁𝑒𝑒𝑑𝑙𝑒 𝑃𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ =
𝑁𝑢𝑚𝑏𝑒𝑟 𝑜𝑓 𝑙𝑜𝑜𝑝𝑠
𝐶𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠𝑒 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ
𝑀𝑎𝑐ℎ𝑖𝑛𝑒 𝐺𝑎𝑢𝑔𝑒

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GSM:
GSM means gram per square meter. Its unit is (gm/m2). In knitting fabric, it is the main
parameter. It is controlled by loop length. If loop length increases GSM will decrease and
vice versa.
GSM depends on:
• Yarn count
• Stitch length
• Fabric Composition
• Fabric type
• Finishing property
• Washed
• Color shade
Types of Knitted fabric:
Single Jersey Fabric:
Single jersey is weft knitted fabric which is formed by one set of needles.
Single jersey is the mostly used for making T-shirts in textile. In single
jersey face side and back side appearance is different. This fabric is much
warm, flexible, stretchy, and wear to comfort therefore get popularity.
Double Jersey Fabric:
Double jersey is weft knitted fabric which is formed by
two sets of needles. Double jersey fabric is almost like
the single jersey fabric but in double jersey face and
back side appearance is same.
Difference between Single Jersey Fabric and Double Jersey Fabric:
SL. Subject Single Jersey Double Jersey
01
Number of
needles used
Normally single jersey fabric is
formed by one set of needles.
But in rib fabric is produced
by two sets of needles.
02 Appearance
In single jersey face side and
back side appearance is
different.
In double jersey face and
back side appearance is same
Fig:2.1: Face of Single
Jersey
Fig:2.2: Back of Single Jersey
Fig:2.3: Face of Double Jersey

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03
Curling
tendency
Single jersey fabric has
curling tendency. There no curling tendency.
04 Fabric Balance
Single jersey fabric is
unbalanced. Double jersey is balanced.
05
Thickness &
weight
Thickness & weight of single
jersey is half of rib fabric.
Thickness & weight of
double jersey is twice of rib
fabric.
06
Laddering
problem
Single jersey has laddering
problem. There no laddering problem.
Types of Knitted fabric:
Single Jersey Fabric:
Single jersey is weft knitted fabric which is
formed by one set of needles. Single jersey is the
mostly used for making Tshirts in textile. In single
jersey face side and back side appearance is
different.
This fabric is much warm, flexible, stretchy, and wear to comfort
therefore get popularity.
Double Jersey Fabric:
Double jersey is weft knitted fabric which is formed by two sets of
needles. Double jersey fabric is almost like the single jersey fabric but
in double jersey face and back side appearance is same.
Difference between Single Jersey Fabric and Double
Jersey Fabric:
SL. Subject Single Jersey Double Jersey
01
Number of
needles used
Normally single jersey fabric is
formed by one set of needles.
But in rib fabric is produced
by two sets of needles.
02 Appearance
In single jersey face side and
back side appearance is
different.
In double jersey face and
back side appearance is same
03
Curling
tendency
Single jersey fabric has
curling tendency. There no curling tendency.
04 Fabric Balance
Single jersey fabric is
unbalanced. Double jersey is balanced.
Fig:2.4: Face of Single Jersey Fig:2.5: Back of Single Jersey
Fig:2.6 Face of Double Jersey

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05
Thickness &
weight
Thickness & weight of single
jersey is half of rib fabric.
Thickness & weight of
double jersey is twice of rib
fabric.
06
Laddering
problem
Single jersey has laddering
problem. There no laddering problem.
Rib Fabric: A double-knit fabric in which the rib wales or vertical rows of stitches intermesh
alternatively on the face and the back of the fabric. Rib knit fabrics have good elasticity and
shape retention, especially in the width.
Properties:
❖ The appearance of face & back is identical
❖ Fabric length wise & width wise extensibility is approximately that of single jersey.
❖ Fabric dose not curl at edges.
❖ Fabric thickness is approximately twice than single jersey.
❖ There are two series of knitted loops arranged into two parallel in a course.
❖ Combination of Wales of face loop & back loop are present on the both side of the
fabric.
Interlock Fabric: In knitted fabric, loops are locked to each other and loops are identical.
The stitch variation of the rib stitch, which resembles two separate 1x1 ribbed fabrics that are
interknitted. Plain interlock stitch fabrics are thicker, heavier, and more stable than single knit
construction.
Properties:
• Interlock the technical face of plain on both sides, so the appearance of face &
back side is same.
• The Wales of each side are exactly opposite to each other & are locked together.
• Widthwise & length elongation are approximately same as single jersey.
• The fabric dose not curl at the edges.
• The fabric can be unraveled from the knitted last.
• Two yarns must be removed to unravel a compete repeat of knitted course.
Fabric thickness is approximately twice than that of single jersey
Comparison between RIB and INTERLOCK circular knitting machine
is given below:
SL. Rib Interlock
01 Rib has vertical cord appearance Interlock has the technical face of plain
fabrics on both sides
02 One type of latch needle is used Two types of latch needle is used.
03 One feeder is used at yarn feeding At least two feeders are used
04 Relaxation is less More relaxation

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05 Dial and cylinder needles are opposite but
placed in same sequence.
Dial and cylinder needles are opposite and
alternatively placed
06 It is not so thick and heavy structure It is so thick and heavy structure
07 More production rate Less production rate
08 Used to produce tops of socks, cuffs,
sleeves, bottom edges of sweaters, knit
hats, means hosiery
Used to produce underwear, shirts, suits,
trousers suits, sportswear, dress
The principals involved in supplying of yarn may be summed as follows:
a) Negative feeding
b) Positive Feeding
Negative feeding:
Yarn is pulled through the needles directly from the package through guides, tensions, etc. It
does now not require any extra attachment as yarn is drawn automatically due to the knitting
process. This approach does not maintain uniform yarn tension. But it can easily alter and
deal with the difference in stitch cam setting in different feeds.
Positive feeding:
In the case of positive feeding, the yarn is first measured as required and then supplied to the
needle or knitting zone. This technique makes it possible to supply equal lengths of yarn to
all feeds and maintain uniform tension of the input yarn. The result is a uniform loop length
and a better quality of the fabric. However, this technique requires a special attachment to the
machine. Construction of a common positive feeder. To measure the yarn before entering the
weaving zone, drums, or cylinders is measured in each feeding zone.
Inspection system:
After Knitting production, there must be ensured the fabric quality by the Inspection
team. Inspection team inspect the produce fabric on the inspection table. Their
responsibilities are given bellow:
a) At first Bar code team provide a Bar code tag with attach the fabric to
identify the fabric for the after process.
b) After that the fabric inspector check the GSM, Fabric Quality, Fabric faults
etc, and update all the information in the Bar code by Electric devices.
c) The inspection team use the 4-point grading system for inspection the quality
of the fabric.

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Common Knitting Faults with Causes and Remedies:
Causes:
• Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
• During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle
hook.
• If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course, and
density.
• Badly knot or splicing.
• Yarn feeder badly set.
Remedies:
Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
• Use proper count of yarn.
• Correctly set of yarn feeder.
• Knot should be given properly.
Causes:
• When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the
fabrics.
• If a needle or needle hook is slightly bending, then needle mark
comes on the fabrics.
Remedies:
• Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
• Bent needle should be changed
Causes:
• Yarn tension variation during production.
• Buckling of the needle latch.
• Low G.S.M fabric production
Remedies:
• Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
• Use good, conditioned needles.
Star Mark
Fig:2.9: Star Mark
Hole Mark
Needle Mark
Fig:2.7: Hole Mark
Fig:2.8 Needle Mark
Mark

34. 34 | P a g e
Causes:
• Defective needle.
• If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation
i.e. not properly laid on to the needle hook.
• Take-down mechanism too loose.
• Insufficient yarn tension.
• Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
• Needle should be straight & well.
• Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
• Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
• Yarn tension should be perfect.
• When oil lick through the needle trick then it passes on the
fabrics and make a line.
Remedies:
• Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
• Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
Causes:
In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from
yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or
attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
• Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period.
• By cleaning the floor continuously.
• By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
• Overall ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.
Fig:2.10: Drop Stitches
Fig:2.11 Oil Stain
Causes:
Fig:2.12 Fly
Dust
Fly Dust
Drop Stitches
Oil Stain

35. 35 | P a g e
Causes:
• If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even
after finishing,
• If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
• By avoiding lot, count mixing.
• Fault less spinning.
Causes:
• Yarn count variation
• Yarn tension variation
Remedies:
• Proper yarn count & tension should be maintained.
Remarks:
• For dark color & plain single jersey patta very sensitive. But in case
of derivatives of single jersey, rib &interlock light patta considerable.
Causes:
• Breakage of Lycra yarn & uneven tension of Lycra
Remedies:
• To maintain uniform tension.
Causes:
• Yarn breakage due to any reason and not pass through the yarn
guide. It may be occurred for tension variation.
Remedies:
• Yarn guide and tensioner must be used.
Patta
Fig:2.14: Yarn contamination
Fig:2.16: Patta
Lycra Out
Fig:2.17: Lycra Out
Yarn Miss
Fig:2.18: Yarn miss
Yarn contamination

36. 36 | P a g e
Quality Assurance System of Knitting Department:
After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect
thoroughly by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dying. Quality
assurance of knitted grey fabric is described here.
Some Points Are Needed to Be Maintained for High Quality Fabric:
a) Brought good quality yarn.
b) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
c) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.
d) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
e) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4-point grading system.
Grey Fabric inspection:
Inspection refers to an investigation process of accepting or rejecting the final finished fabric
from the bulk. It is an observation process of finding out each & every visible fault in the fabric.
Process of grey fabric inspection:
Set fabric roll in machine
Run the machine
Check the faults
Record the faults
Accept/Reject
Send for next process
To detect and identify the fault in fabric by the knitting,
visual assessment on inspection machine
Body & rib inspection:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the
inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-
thin, barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, subsets are recorded
in inspection report to classify the fabric based on the 4-point system.
Four – point system:
Size of defect Penalty
3 inches or less 1 point
over 3 but not over 6 2 points
Over 6 but nor over 9 3 points
Over 9 inches 4 points

37. 37 | P a g e
Point System for Fault Inspection for Knitted Fabric:
Knitting Faults Point
Slub 1
Any kind of Hole 4
Needle Mark/ Sinker Mark 4
Needle Broken 4
Set up 4
Dirt, Oil Spot, Thick, Thin, Contamination up to 3 inch in Length 1
Dirt, Oil Spot, Thick, Thin, Contamination up to 6 inch in Length 2
Dirt, Oil Spot, Thick, Thin, Contamination up to 9 inch in Length 3
Dirt, Oil Spot, Thick, Thin, Contamination above 9 inch in Length 4
Acceptance calculation:
Total point per 100 square yards
= Actual points counted x 36 x 100
Actual Roll length Actual width
= Points/100 square yards.
Classification of Inspection Fabric:
< 40 points = A
41-60 points = B
61-80 points = C
80 above = Reject.
Acceptance:
Generally, any piece of fabric with 40 points or less faults per 100sq. yard is allowed to pass
however for a roll the average value should not exceed 18point per 100sq.yard.
More than 40points faults per 100sq yard is recorded as “REJECT”.
Some necessary Knitting calculations:
Production calculation for Single Jersey:
𝝅𝑫𝑮×𝑺.𝑳(𝒎𝒎)×𝑵𝒖𝒎𝒃𝒆𝒓 𝒐𝒇 𝑭𝒆𝒆𝒅𝒆𝒓×𝒓𝒑𝒎×𝟔𝟎×𝟖×𝒆𝒇𝒇𝒊𝒄𝒊𝒆𝒏𝒄𝒚
Production = (kg)
𝟐.𝟓𝟒×𝟑𝟔×𝟖𝟒𝟎×𝑵𝒆×𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔

38. 38 | P a g e
Here , D = Diameter of the machine
G = Gauge of the machine
S.L = Stitch Length
Production calculation for Rib:
Production
𝛑𝐃𝐆×𝐒.𝐋(𝐦𝐦)×𝐍𝐮𝐦𝐛𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐟 𝐅𝐞𝐞𝐝𝐞𝐫×𝐫𝐩𝐦×𝟔𝟎×𝟖×𝐞𝐟𝐟𝐢𝐜𝐢𝐞𝐧𝐜𝐲×𝐅𝐞𝐞𝐝𝐞𝐫/𝐂𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐬𝐞
= (kg)
𝟐.𝟓𝟒×𝟑𝟔×𝟖𝟒𝟎×𝐍𝐞×𝟐.𝟐𝟎𝟒𝟔
Method of Increasing Production:
By the following methods the production can be increased –
a) By increasing m/c speed:
- Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately
production will be increased.
b) By increasing the number of feeders:
- If the number of feeders is increased in the circumference of cylinder,
then the number of courses will be increased in one revolution at a
time.
c) By increasing cam angle:
- By increasing cam angle production is increased.
d) By imposing automation in the m/c:
- Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.
- Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.
- Photo electric fabric fault detector.
e) By imposing other developments:
- Using creel-feeding system.
- Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the
possibilities of yarn damage.
- Using yarn feed control device.
Using auto lint removal

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CHAPTER-3
LAB DIP/COLOR LAB

40. 40 | P a g e
Lab Dip:
A lab dip is when a dye house or color lab dyes a few small swatches of your actual quality
fabric or textile trim to find out what formula creates the best color match for that quality. A
Pantone color reference or sometimes a swatch cut from another fabric is given to the lab to
match to. This process usually takes anywhere from a few days to two weeks depending on
how difficult the color is to match, the availability of the dyestuffs, and how busy the lab is. At
the lab level, it can take up to six hours to process a cotton dip and twelve hours for poly or
poly blends. The process is repeated until a close match is achieved. The swatches are then
checked in a lightbox to see how colors look under various light settings, like daylight vs.
fluorescent store lights. A lightbox is all grey inside so that your eyes do not get distracted by
any other colors.
Lab Dip Work Flow:

41. 41 | P a g e
Color Lab Machine Quantity:
SL. Machine Name Quantity
1 Auto Dispenser Machine 2
2 Smaple Dyeing Machine 4
3 Deep Washing Machine 1
4 Dryer 2
5 Hydro Extractor 1
7 Datacolor 2
8 Light Box 3
Sample Dyeing Machine specification:
Brand Name Mathis LABOMAT
Origin Switzerland
Capacity 24 pots
Dyeing pot capacity 200 ml
Heating System Infrared Heating system
Cooling system By Water
Temperature
For polyester: 130˚C, For hot brand reactive dye: 80˚C-95˚C
M:L ratio 1:6
Buyer Required Light sources for Light Box:
Buyer
Name
Light Source
Primary Secondary Tertiary
Tom
Tailor
D65 TL84 -
Esprit D65 TL84 -
Mango D65 TL84 - Fig:3.1 Light
Box

42. 42 | P a g e
Pantone is a standard ‘Color Matching System’ where a code number is used to
identify each color. Whatever the color, it is easy to identify any color with the help
of Pantone Color Guide, because each color has a different or unique code number. A
page has more than one swatch for just a single color, that means, the luminance varies
from light to dark for any color like yellow and has many yellow colors. This Pantone
Color Guide is used in the textile industry for color matching with dyed samples after
fabric coloration process.
ECI D65 TL84 -
OTCF D65 TL84 -
CoS D65 TL83 A10
H & M TL83 D65 A10
C & A TL84 D65 A10
Guess TL84 D65 -
Inditex TL84 D65 -
Gina
Tricot
TL84 D65 -
Incity TL84 D65 -
Fig 3.4: Sample Dyeing Machine
Fig:3.2 Sample Dryer
Fig 3.5: Pantone Fig 3.6: TCX Pantone Book
Fig 3.3: TPX Pantone
Book

43. 43 | P a g e
 Textile Color on Cotton (TCX)
These are colorful pure “Cotton Swatch” in each individual color. It looks like a
passport guide or chip set. However, TCX Pantone books are much more
expensive. Because it is a complete cotton swatch, it can cost from hundreds to
thousands of dollars. For example: “PANTONE 19-4052 TCX” is Classic Blue.
 Textile Color on Paper (TPX):
In this case it is made of “Paper Swatch” instead of cotton swatch,
and each swatch is colored in a unique color. The TPX Pantone
Book is much cheaper than the TCX. The TPX Pantone book has
recently been updated to the TPG Pantone book. TPX & TPG colors
are the same, but the TPG is much more eco-friendly. (Textile Paper
Green – All lead and chromium content removed from TPX products
for ecofriendly update). For example: “PANTONE 17-5126 TPX” is
Viridian Green.
Significance of Pantone Numbers:
TCX and TPX numbers are not just a unique number, they
have some special meaning that reflects some of the
characteristics of the colorant. We know that there are three
color attributes, namely: Hue, Value and Chroma. The
pantone number here consists of 6 digits, the first two digits
of which express the Lightness of the color, the middle two
digits represent the Hue, i.e., Red/ Yellow/Green/Blue and
the last two digits represent Chroma i.e., the
dullness/vividness or depth of the color.
For example:
PANTONE 19–4052 TCX (Classic Blue)
19 = Lightness, 40 = Hue, 52 = Chroma
Ranges of Lightness, Hue and Chroma- Lightness: Minimum- 11 & Maximum-
19
Hue: Minimum- 1 & Maximum- 64 Chroma: Minimum- 0 & Maximum- 64
Fig 3.7: Pantone Code Format

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CHAPTER-4
DYEING DEPARTMENT

45. 45 | P a g e
: Organogram of deying
section:
Sr. GM
GM
DGM
AGM
Asst. Manager
Sr. Executive
Executive
Jr. Executive
Supervisor
Operator
Helper
Dyeing Flow Chart:
Batch preparation
Pre-treatment
Dyeing
After treatment
Slitting/Squeezing
Stentering/Drying
Compacting
Quality Inspection
GPQ Certification
Delivery to garments

46. 46 | P a g e
Batching:
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a
particular lot of a particular order.
Function or Purpose of Batch Section:
• To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.
• Turn the grey fabric if require.
• To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following
criteria –
✓ Order sheet (Received from buyer)
✓ Machine Capacity
✓ Machine Available
✓ Dyeing shade
✓ Emergency
•To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.
•To keep records for every previous dyeing.
Dyeing:
Dyeing is a method which imparts beauty to the textile by applying various colors and their
shades on to a fabric. Dyeing can be done at any stage of the manufacturing of textile- fiber,
yarn, fabric, or a finished textile product including garments and apparels. The property of
color fastness depends upon two factors- selection of proper dye according to the textile
material to be dyed and selection of the method for dyeing the fiber, yarn, or fabric.
Dyeing Methods used in INCTL
• Exhaust Dyeing
• CPB Dyeing
Fig 4.1: Exhaust Dyeing

47. 47 | P a g e
Dyeing Machine specification (Bulk):
M/c no. Type Brand Origin Capacity
(kg)
01,08 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 150
02 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 300
03,04,05 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 250
06,12,19 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 500
07,13,20 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 600
09 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong’s China 1000
10 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 900
11,15,16 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 1000
14,22 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 1500
17,18,23 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 750
21 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 1200
24 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 1800
Fig 4.2: CPB Dyeing

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Dyeing Machine specification (Sample):
M/c no. Type Brand Origin Capacity
(kg)
01,02 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 70
03 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong’s China 5
04 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 15
05 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 20
06 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 30
07 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 50
08 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong’s China 50
09 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong’s China 10
10 High Temperature, High Pressure Tonjong Taiwan 10
11 High Temperature, High Pressure Tonjong Taiwan 50
12 High Temperature, High Pressure Tonjong Taiwan 30
13 High Temperature, High Pressure Tonjong Taiwan 15
14 High Temperature, High Pressure Tonjong Taiwan 15
15 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong’s China 10
16 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong’s China 30
17 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong’s China 30
18 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong’s China 30
19 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 50
20 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 50
21 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 80
22 High Temperature, High Pressure SCLAVOS Greece 80

49. 49 | P a g e
General Chemicals:
General Chemicals Caustic Soda (NaOH)
Soda Ash
Hydrogen Peroxide
Acid Sulfuric Acid
Acetic Acid
Formic Acid
Oxalic Acid
Invatex AC
Cat-ionic softener Pearl soft CAT
Non-ionic (white) Forsoft-NID
Anticreasing Agent Jingen LUB-HGS
Asulit PA-NI
Fixing Agent Neofix CT/HYD
Albafix FRD-T
Sequestering Agent Jingen SQ-PBS
Leveling Agent Jinlev Eco RLF-349
Jinlev Eco RLF-349
(for polyester)
Anti Back Staining Agent Sarabid-OL
Oil Removing Agent Jinterg Eco ESR
Soaping Agent JingenSP AWP 145
Enzyme Jingen EZ BPA
Detergent Jinterg ECO-MC
JingenDT SLF-14
Proder JT-LF-AC
Per oxide killer Jintexyme OEM
Invatex PC
Per oxide stabilizer Jingen ST RS-200

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Different types of chemicals used in INCTL:
Pretreatment:
Pretreatment is the mother of dyeing. Good pretreatment results good dyeing. Before
dying of the fabric, it is important to make the fabric ready for dyeing. Otherwise, more
money, more time, more effort will be spent for the minimum result.
Objective of pretreatment:
• To remove the non-cellulosic impurities.
• To increase the uniform absorbency of the dyestuff to the fabric.
• Preparation of the goods at for dyeing minimum damage.
Scouring:
Natural fibers contain oils, fats, waxes, minerals, leafy matter, and motes as impurities
that interfere with dyeing and finishing. Synthetic fibers contain producer spin finishes,
coning oils and/or knitting oils, Mill grease used to lubricate processing equipment,
mill dirt, temporary fabric markings and the like may contaminate fabrics as they are
being produced. The process of removing these impurities is called Scouring.
Following things are happened after scouring.
Saponification of fats into water soluble soap and water miscible glycerin
under alkaline conditions.
• Hydrolysis of proteins into water soluble degradation products.
• Dissolution of amino compounds.
• Solubilizing of pentose and pectin’s by converting into soluble salts.
• Dissolution and extraction of mineral matter.
Bleaching:
Bleaching is chemical treatment employed for the removal of natural coloring matter from the
substrate. The source of natural color is organic compounds with conjugated double bonds, by
doing chemical bleaching the discoloration takes place by the breaking the chromophore, most
likely destroying the one or more double bonds within this conjugated system. The material
appears whiter after the bleaching
Aims of bleaching are given below:
• Removal of colored impurities.
• Removal of the seed coats.
• Minimum tendering of fiber.
• Technically reliable & simple mode of operation. ✓ Low chemical & energy
consumption.
• Increasing the degree of whiteness.
Types of Bleaching:
a) Oxidative Bleaching Agents.

51. 51 | P a g e
b) Reductive Bleaching Agents.
c) Enzymatic Bleaching Agents.
Normally three processes are very common to bleach textile fabric/yarn:
a) Hypochlorite Bleaching.
b) Peroxide Bleaching.
c) Sodium chlorite bleaching.
Hot Wash:
After the semi-bleaching it is necessary to wash the fabric at high temperature in order to
remove the wax or other wax like substrate.
This process is done at 95⁰C for 15 to 20 min. After hot wash Hydrophilies of fabric is
increased.
Bio-polishing:
Bio polishing is a treatment to remove the hairy fiber from the fabric surface to increase the
luster of the fabric. Here cellulase enzyme is used as a bio polishing agent. Enzyme is
complex of protein with peptide linkage. It works under a specific pH & temperature.
Typical Process Flow Chart of Cotton Dyeing:
Fabric Load
Detergent (50℃ × 5 min)
Caustic Soda (50℃ × 5 min)
Hydrogen Peroxide (50℃ - 80℃ × 5 min)
Steam up (4G, 80℃ to 98℃)
Scouring (98℃ × 40 min)
Cooling (80℃)
Wash (80℃ × 8 min)
Drain - Fill
Normal Hot (80℃ × 7 min)
Wash (50℃ × 5 min)
Invatex PC + Neutra Acid (55℃ × 5 min) (pH
4.5)
Enzyme (55℃ × 40 min)

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Hot (80℃ × 5 min)
Wash (50℃ × 5 min)
Drain - Fill
Leveling Agent (50℃ × 5 min)
Salt (50℃ × 10 min)
Color Dosing (50℃ × 35 min)
Run time (50℃ × 10 min)
Steam up (1G) (to 60℃)
Runtime (60℃ × 20 min)
Soda (60℃ × 35 min)
B/D wash (50℃ × 12 min)
Drain - Fill
Jingen sp AWP145 (90℃ × 20 min)
Cooling (to 80℃)
Check Sample
Wash (40℃ × 10 min)
Drain - Fill
Wash (40℃ × 10 min)
Check Sample
Softner (40℃ × 20 min)
Check Sample
Unloading

53. 53 | P a g e
Dyeing faults
Major dyeing faults which occur during are mentioned below:
1.Uneven Dyeing
2.Batch to Batch Shade variation
3.Patchy dyeing effect
4.Crease mark
5.Dye spot
Uneven dyeing
Causes:
• Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
• Improper color dosing.
• Using dyes of high fixation property.
• Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
• Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
• By ensuring even pretreatment.
• 31
• By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
• Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
Batch to Batch Shade Variation
Causes:
• Fluctuation of Temperature.
• Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
• Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
• Dyes lot variation.
• Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
• Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
• Use standard dyes and chemicals.
• Maintain the same liquor ratio.
• Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.

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• Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
• Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
Patchy Dyeing Effect
Causes:
• Faulty injection of alkali.
• Improper addition of color.
• Due to hardness of water.
• Due to improper salt addition.
• Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
• Uneven heat in the machine, etc.
Remedies:
• By ensuring proper pretreatment.
• Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
• Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
Crease Mark
Causes:
• Poor opening of the fabric rope
• Shock cooling of synthetic material
• If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
• Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
• Maintaining proper reel sped , pump speed & reducing the m/c load.
• Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
• Higher liquor ratio.
Dye Spot
Causes:
• Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
• Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
• By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
• By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless-steel mesh strainer, so that
the large un-dissolved particles are remove.

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CHAPTER-5
TESTING LAB/PHYSICAL LAB

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Textile Testing:
To confirm the actual quality of any fabric, fabric testing has great importance. Types
of tests required for the fabric are confirmed by the buyer. It may vary from one buyer
to another. Normally garment is produced from fabric. The fabric can be woven or
knitted or knit fabric, solid color dyed, printed, check, or stripe that is finished fabric.
Before making garments from those fabrics especially for large quantities. It should be
kept in mind that the garment may be rejected by the buyer due to some quality
problem of the fabric although the fabric may be brand new. To avoid such kinds of
problems, fabrics must test to identify their actual quality before making the garments
and it is called fabrics testing.
Objects of Fabrics Testing:
The reasons for carrying out tests on fabrics are numerous and some common ones are
pointed out below:
• To check that the fabric conforms to fabric specification.
• To note the effect of changes in structural details.
• To note the effect of physical and chemical treatment, exposure to weather or
laundering or washing, etc.
• To obtain some identification of probable performance in use.
• To investigate the causes of failure and customers complain.
• To help in designing a fabric for a specific purpose.
• To study the interaction of fiber, yarn, and fabric properties.
Equipment for physical test:
• Tumble dryer
• Dimensional stability test
• PH meter
• Perspiro meter
• Washing machine
• Crock meter
• Yarn count tester
• GSM cutter
• Pilling tester
Color fastness to light
Brand: ATLAS, XENO test 150
• Inside this light box, xenon light is used to get sunlight for color test.
• Here 8 types blue wool fabric is used
• Humidity is 40 %
• Sample size 10/45 mm
• Here mounting card is used to set fabric
• Time standard for color fading
• Used 4 grade blue wool
• Color is changed after 15 hours
• After test sample is rating by blue wool fabric.

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Color fastness to washing (ISO 105C06)
• Model : Electrolux W555H
• It is front loaded washer extractor
• Maximum capacity 6kg/ 13lb
• Dimension: height 850mm, width 595mm , depth 680 mm
• Net weight 99kg
Color fastness to pilling
• Here ISO 12945 method is used for this test
• Two types of pilling test is available in this laboratory
• One is marntile pilling test and another is ICI pilling test
• Marntile pilling test is fabric to fabric rubbing and ICI pilling test is fabric to other
substance
• The rpm of this pilling tester m/c is 60
PH test
• Take 2 gm sample
• To make solution by using potassium chloride
• Required time 2 hours
• At last check the PH in PH meter
Yarn count test
• Here ISO 2060 method is applied
• At first set the yarn to the machine
• Then set the cycle run for 100 times
• Then take the yarn from the machine
• Weight the sample in analytic balance
• Convert the gram into pound
• After this calculate the count by this equation
Length in yard × Weight Unit
Count = ..........................................................
840 Yard × Weight in pound
Twist tester
• Here ISO 2061 is applied
• Here need to yarn package, yarn guide , yarn twister, tensioner
• At first draw the yarn into tensioner
• fixed jaw and then have to untwist the yarn with the help of handle
• The single yarn untwist re twist meters is used and number of turns per-inch is
determined tram control reading.

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Lab Machines:
Fig 5.1: Martindale
Pilling
Fig 5.2: Twist Tester Fig 5.3: Pilling Tester
Fig 5.4: Bursting Tester Fig 5.5: Yarn Evenness
Tester
Fig 5.6: Warp Reel
Fig 5.9: Sublimation
Tester
Fig 5.8: Dryer
Fig 5.7:PH Tester
Fig 5.10: Gyro Wash Fig 5.11: Electric Oven Fig 5.12: Electrolux
Washing m/c

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CHAPTER-6
GARMENTS SECTION

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Sample Section
In garments industry, the sample which is come from buyer and it is followed for bulk
production called sample. Garment samples are inevitably important and are developed tested
before starting the bulk production. It means making a sample of the garment /fabric which
requires to be sold. Sampling is one of the main processes in Garment Industry and it has a
vital role in attracting buyers. Because the buyers generally place the order after they are
satisfied with the quality of the samples.
Organogram
Pattern Master
Sample Supervisor
Sample man
Ironman
Q.C
Cutting man
Helper
Types of Sample produce
1. Design development:
• This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
• Design development is either done by buyer or factory
• The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
2. Proto sample:
R Receive developed sheet from
buyer
Develop the sample
Send the sample to buyer for
approval
Approval of
sample/comments about the
sample (if necessary)
Send pre -
production sample to
buyer
Start bulk production
Flow sequence of sample section:

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• Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the
factory based on proto sample only.
• Normally, buyer send proto sample request to 2-3 factories.
• The factory which submits the good quality and optimum price will get confirmation
from buyer.
• Proto sample are normally prepared in similar fabric if actual fabric is not available.
• Substitute Trims can be used on proto.
• As proto sample is given first time to the factory to buyer, so to develop the proto
sample buyer need to provide necessary information along with the proto request. These
are: Specification Sheet (Tech Pack), Bill of Material, Development sample (optional),
Paper patterns (optional), Sample of novelty trims, Sample of fabric yardage (it may be
send by buyer or asked to develop), Details of Print or
Embroidery, if any.
3.Fit sample
• Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on
dummy and for approval of construction details.
• At this stage of sampling, buyer makes sure that factory understands thoroughly the
construction and quality details and standards .The sample sent mostly in medium and
large sizes mentioned by the buyer.
4.Photo shoot sample:
• In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for AD sample for
photo shoot.
• Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media
like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
• This sample mainly sends in medium to large or sizes specified by buyer.
5.Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample:
• The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
• In Sales man sample actual accessories, actual fabric is used.
• The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer; hence merchandiser
should aware and make sure that product development team is well aware about the
sample quality parameters.
• The cost of sample production is given by buyer.
6.Size set sample / Back seal Sample:
• The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the
sample in all sizes.
• The size set sample should be made in the actual fabric and trims.
• The samples can be made in the sampling room or actual production floor, as required
by the buyer.
• Bulk cutting of fabric for production should start only after size-set sample get
approved.

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7.GPT sample (Garment Performance Test):
• The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to ensure
the performance of the garment.
• The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
• Garments for GPT sample can be done along with Size Set sample.
• Normally, GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well
as buyer.
8.Pre- production sample: (PP sample)
• PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.
• It has to be made in original fabric and trims.
• Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.
• PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be identical to PP
sample.
9.Wash sample:
• Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after
washing of Denim or shirt washing program, hence either at size set stage or PP stage washing
sample is sent to buyer for approval and carry forward of washing program.
• If sample is not approved or approved with comments, factory needs to submit 2nd sample to get
approval.
• After feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing program.
10.TOP sample (Top of Production):
• The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing line with
suggestion of QA department.
• In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
• Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
• TOP sample also checked by the buyer for the packaging. ]
11.Shipment sample:
• Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual
shipment and sent to buyer.
• The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.

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CAD:
Computer Aided Design (CAD) has been a boon for designing and manufacturing industry
allowing efficiency and productivity which a normal pen-paper design can never compare with.
The CAD system and its tools have become an essential component of garment manufacturing-
fast fashion makers, designers, even traditional fashion manufacturers now own a CAD system.
CAD is the 1st step of Garments manufacturing, garments measurement, shape and pattern can be
controlled easily. Here I am giving CAD room working procedure from starting pattern making
to bulk marker printing flow chart-wise, your concept will be clear about CAD work what they
must do in Garments industry.
Purpose of using CAD in Garments:
• For reducing time in marker making.
• For reducing Marker Wastage.
• For increasing marker efficiency.
• To make the marker accuracy.
• To calculate the fabric consumption accurately.
Advantages of CAD Software:
• Computer-aided design (CAD) system reduces the most valuable times compared to
the laborious manual work of designing.
• All the design data can be easily stored, transmitted, and transported through the
computer files
• The design can be done from anywhere and the total process can be easily controlled
by the customers.
• Digital swatches can be preserved on zip disks, floppy disks, hard drives, or CD-ROM
which saves enough space.
Disadvantages of CAD Drawing or Drafting in Apparel Sector:
Though it is too hard to get a negative update about the computer-aided design or
CAD application in the apparel industry. But there are some slight disadvantages of
CAD application which come from several Cad experts from this industry. Those are
in the following:
a) Some most popular CAD software has a higher price like Page CAD, QCAD, Libre CAD, and
Open SCAD.
b) CAD operator must train themselves according to the update of CAD software.
c) Sometimes, it is too tough to find a skilled operator to run CAD software.

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Some terms & definitions of CAD:
Pattern
The pattern is a hard paper that is made by following each component for a style of apparel or
clothing. The pattern is one of the most important parts of the apparel industry. There are different
pattern types.
Patterns are paper templates for all the components of a garment, such as cloths, lining,
interlining which must be cut for making a garment. These patterns are used to draw sketch on
cloth or marker paper.
Steps of Garment Pattern Making:
Patterns are made in two steps:
1. Block pattern.
2. Working pattern.
Block pattern:
Block pattern or basic block indicates the original pattern. Block Pattern is made based on the
specific and standard body measurement without any design or
style. It is produced according to exact dimension of body for
different age group and gender.
Block pattern making method:
a) Flat method: In this method, different parts of garments,
especially major parts are made by technical drawing. In
the technical drawing, proportion of different parts of a
garment is considered. This pattern can be made by both
manual and computerized method.
b) Modeling: It is primary and first method and widely used in garment industry. Block is
made with standard body measurement of mannequin. This block is called toile. Toile is
worn on the mannequin and adjusted the pattern necessarily. Then Toile is worn out
from the body and individual parts of Toile are drawn on hard paper.
Fabric Spreading
Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of specific
length. The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layer. During spreading
Fig 6.1: Manual Patter Making

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number of the plies should be not more than three hundreds but it depends on the
thickness of the fabric and the height of the cutting knife.
For example: if the thickness of the fabric is higher than the number of plies mentioned
above would not valid and in case of
straight knife cutting instrument the
maximum lay height should be 70% of
the blade height.
Types of Fabric Spreading
1. Automatic Spreading
2. Manual Spreading
In this Industry only Automatic
Spreading done.
Ideal Lay height
Fabric type No. of
ply
Lay height
Single jersey 90-100 3”
Rib 60-70 2.5”
Lycra 80 2.5"-3”
Viscose 70 1.5”
Fleece 55-60 3”
Pique 70-80 2.5"-3"
Requirements of fabric spreading
• Alignment of fabric plies.
Picture 6.2 Auto Spreading

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• Correct ply tension.
• Elimination of fabric faults.
• Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability.
• Elimination of static electricity.
• Avoidance of fusion of plies.
• Avoidance of distortion in spread
Spreading system in factory
• Manual spreader group: 3 groups.
• Gerber Spreader: 5 pcs.
Marker making
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just before cutting
and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to the width of the fabric and
it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker is kept less than or equal
to the width of the Fabric. The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way that it will
obviously minimize wastages.
Objects of marker making
• To reduce cost.
• To improve the quality of the garments.
• To reduce the cutting time.
• To facilitate large scale production.
Types of marker making
Generally, there are two methods by which marker can be made –
a) Manual Method of Marker:
The man performs it by himself using his hands. It is a conventional system and requires more time.
Manually two types of marker are made –
1. Full size marker:
Full size marker is made for production purpose.
2. Miniature type marker:
Miniature type marker is sometime made and its purposes are to plan or schedule and learn or study i.e.
for planning and learning purposes.
b) Computerized Method:
Now the commonly used system of marker making is computerized method. In this system, a man
performs it by himself using computer software (CAD and CAM) and it requires considerably less
time than manual system. Two types of marker are generally made using computerized system –
1. Full size marker:

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Using Digitalizing Board the pattern pieces are input into the computer. Computer uses software and
a marker paper is printed out that will be used in the production.
2. Miniature type marker:
Only for learning, practicing, and planning purposes this type of marker is printed from the computer.
To get the optimum efficiency of markers as well as to minimize fabric wastage they done marker by
computerized marker making system (VEITH). But this Industry only use the manual marker system.
Factors considered during marker making
The important factors considered during marker making are –
1.Nature of the Fabric:
The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Thus the nature of the fabric should be considered
during marker making.
2.Lay planning of patterns:
Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage. Thus it should be taken under consideration.
• Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line.
• It is also another important factor that must be considered. The warp direction of a fabric is very
much important for a garment and the grain line indicates the warp or wale direction.
• Requirements of cutting:
Before placing the pattern pieces on to the marker or during marker making the cutting allowances
are considered where necessary and where is not. It may produce more wastage and may reduce
the dimensions of patterns.
• Production planning:
Different types and sizes if garments manufacturing may on at a time in an industry. So, during
marker making it should be considered.
a)Size of marker:
During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of the fabric, etc.
b)Marker Efficiency:
The ratio between the total areas of the pattern pieces to the total area of the maker paper is
technically termed as Marker Efficiency. It is expressed in percentage. If it is denoted by the
symbol ή then – Marker .
Efficiency (ή) = (Total areas of the pattern pieces/Total area of the Marker paper) × 100

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The factors which influence the Marker Efficiency
• Length of the marker.
• Pattern Engineering.
• Nature of the fabric.
• Method of marker making.
• Marker width.
• Kinds or design of garments
Some important definition related to garment pattern making:
• Darts: The purpose of dart is to eliminate excessive fabric in a pattern so that it can conform
into the shape of a human body.
• Grain Line: Pattern pieces normally carry a line is called Grain line. Grain Line of pattern
pieces usually is parallel to the warp (woven) or wale (knit). The actual direction depends
on whether the pattern is to align with the warp, weft, wale, or course when laid on the
fabric for cutting. The direction of the grain line is therefore determined by the designer.
• Drill Holes: Drill holes are small holes drilled into pattern to indicate where other
components (such as pockets) should be superimposed.
• Notches: Notches are cut into the pattern to indicate points where garment components that
are to be joined together.
FABRIC CUTTING (CHAPTER-7)
Cutting Section
The definition of cutting is very complex. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay and spreading
with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting. Marker outline is used to cut the fabric.
Fabric cutting is very important as if something is cut in wrong way, cannot be rectified.

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Process Sequence of Cutting Section Fabric receive from Dyeing/Store Dyeing/Store
Fabric Relaxation
Types of Fabric Relaxation time
100% Cotton single jersey, pique,1x1 Rib, Interlock 24 hours
Lycra single jersey, Lycra pique, Lycra Rib, Lycra
Interlock
36 hours
Any kind of viscose 36 hours
Terry , Fleece 12 hours
Polyester fabric 36 hours
Methods of Fabric Cutting
Fabric cutting methods are as follows:
Fabric receive from Dyeing/Store
Fabric Inspection (Shade & GSM)
Fabric Inspection (4-point System)
Fabric Relaxation
Receive Fabric to Cutting Table
Fabric Spreading
Marker Setting
Fabric Cutting
Numbering
Bundling
Quality Checking

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Manual Method:
• Scissor.
• Straight knife.
• Band knife.
• Round knife.
• Die cutting.
• Notcher.
• Drill etc
Different Types of Cutting Machine
Straight knife cutting machine Figure 7.1: cutting machine
• Machine name : K.M company cloth cutting m/c
• Model : K.M KS_AUV
• Origin : JAPAN
• Type : Heavy duty industrial cloth cutting m/c self sharpening
• Dimension : 8 inch width ×11 inch length ×24 inch height
• Weight : 33.5 lb
• Current : A.C (3.3/2.6 amps)
Machine parts of Straight knife Cutting machine
• Base plate
• Terminal block
• Plug
• Clamp washer
• Pressure foot
• Blade
• Sharpener pulley
• Pulley spring
• On/off Switch
Features of Straight knife cutting machine
• Features of Straight knife cutting machine
• Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays
• Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric
• High cutting speed

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• Sharp and heavy corners can be cut
• Blade could be sharpened by attaching grinding facilities.
• Blade height 10 to 33 cm.
• Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm.
• Special attachment such as sew edge or serrated edge can be provided for heavy fabric such as
canvas or denim.
Advantages of straight knife
• Comparatively cheap and can be transferred easily from one place to another.
• Higher lay of height can be cut very easily.
• Round corners can be cut more precisely then even round knife.
• Production speed is very good as up to 10 heights can be cut at a time.
• Garment components can be directly separated from fabric lays.
• Fabric can be cut from any angle.
Disadvantages of straight knife
• Sometimes deflection may occur due to the weight of the motor.
• Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high Sometimes accident may happen.
Numbering:
In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The sticker number
maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.
Striker machine: 10 pcs.
Bundling:
Prepare bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain
• Date
• Style No
• Size Number
• Card Serial
• Quantity
• Color
• Lot Number
Quality Check
• Oil spot
• Dirty spot
• Crease mark
• Needle mark
• Foreign yarn

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• Slub
• Contamination
• Hole
Then same numbers of sticker are matched fold & bundled.
Cutting store:After cutting all bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section.
Types of wastage in Cutting section:
✓ Inside marker wastage:
Wastage that is obtained from the inter-spaces of the pattern pieces in the marker paper. It depends on
the efficiency of the marker and on the size of the pattern as well.
• Big gaps for big patterns
• Small gaps for small patterns.
✓ Outside marker wastages :
• Ends of ply losses: Some allowance is necessary to be added to the ends of each of fabric
because of fabric extensibility and some limitation of fabric spreading machine. These
allowances are two inches at each end and four inch in each ply of fabric.
• Selvedge losses: Each ply of fabric has two edges of selvedge which are mostly cut out. This is
an uncontrollable wastage and approximately 3% wastage is considered along the lied.
• Ends of fabric roles: The fabric role may sometime not cover the whole ply. Some time it may
cover the half ply therefore it cut away and consider as wastage.
• Purchase order: Fabric length is identified by the fabric manufacturer or supplier on fabric roll.
Sometimes loss fabric is wound on roll than identified length which will create problem during
spreading will be creating away and gone through wastage.
Reasons of fabric wastage
• Fabric defect.
• If dia & width variation of batch.
• Running shade.
• Less marker efficiency.
• Unskilled operator.
List of Cutting and Spreading Defects Found in Quality Inspection:
• Miss cut.
• Running shade
• Matching plies
• Number &bundling

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• Bowing
• Notch mark
• Narrow goods
• Rugged cut
• Fabric way
• Measurement
• Leaning
• Tension Loose
• Bias
• Alignment

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CHAPTER-8
PRINTING DEPARTMENT

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Printing:
Printing is the production of a design or motif on fabric or garments using colorant and other chemicals
in paste form in a predetermined pattern. Printing may be regarded as localized area of dyeing.
Printing ingredients:
The essential ingredients of a printing paste are selected from the following chemicals:
• Colorant (dyestuffs or pigment)
• Thickener
• Wetting agent
• Solvent
• Dispersing agent for printing with disperses dye.
• Hygroscopic agent
• Acid or alkali
• Reducing chemicals
• Oxidizing agents
• Anti-foaming agent
• Mild oxidizing agent
The different styles of printing are – Direct style of printing Discharge style of printing Resist style of
printing
Flock style of printing
Methods of Printing:
a) Block printing
b) Roller printing
c) Transfer printing
d) Stencil printing
e) Sticker printing
f) Digital inkjet printing / Sublimation printing
g) Screen printing:
• Semi-automatic flat screen
• Rotary screen
• Hand screen printing
h) Rubber printing
i) Pigment printing
j) Discharge printing
k) Gel printing / Silicon Printing
l) Plastisol Print

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m) Metallic printing
n) High density printing
o) Foil printing
Types of Machines:
1. Auto Printing M/C / Flash Curing M/S
2. Auto Printing M/C (Round)
3. Manual Printing (Round)
4. Manual Printing Table
5. Curing M/C
6. Exposure M/C
7. Heat Seal M/C
Screen Printing:
Screen printing is a printing technique in which a woven
mesh is used to support an attached stencil. The attached
stencil is created to form open areas of mesh through which
the ink may travel and closed areas blocking the transfer of
ink to the substrate below. The ink is placed on the upper
side of the screen mesh and a squeegee is used to move the
ink across the screen and through the open areas of the mesh.
The ink that passes through the screen is deposited on to the substrate. The ink is then cured using either
air, heat or both until it has adhered to the substrate and created a permanent or semi-permanent bond.
Textile printing is the name given to certain processes which are used to produce single or multi-colored
patterns on fabrics. Textile printing is normally carried out at the fabric stage and sometimes at the
garment stage.
Textile printing is the technique of applying color to fabrics with a high degree of color adhesion
(colorfastness). The standard methods for wet printing are flat-bed screen printing, rotary screen
printing, and using an engraved copper roller. At present, the two most important methods for printing
high volumes of fabric for today’s markets are flat-bed and rotary screen printing.
Fig 8.1: Screen Printing

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Popular Fashion prints on fabric:
1) Pigment Print
Pigments are mainly synthetic organic fiber. Pigments are found in particle
state & particle size range starts from 0.1 to 3 microns. Pigment has less
affinity to fabric, so thickening agents or binder which is also known as
fixing is required during printing.
2) Metallic Print:
Printing paste containing metallic powders is used to produce such print.
Copper, bronze, and aluminum powders are usually used. Color of the print
depends on the metal powder used in the print paste. For example:
Copper powder is used for copper colored print.
Bronze powder is used for gold colored print.
Aluminum powder is used for silver colored print.
3) Puff Print:
An additive is mixed with plastisol inks which raised up while curing
makes a 3D feel. Sometimes it’s called Emboss Print or Foam Print.
4) Rubber Print:
Rubber is used as a textile ink for printing.
5) High Density Print:
A specially formulated paste (rubber or plastisol) is used through screen many
times on a same design to produce a 3D vision of print. It is a slow process,
but result is nice.
6) Transfer Print:
It is also called Sticker Print. The plastisol print is already painted on paper &
will be transferred onto cloth in the fusing process.
7) Photographic Print:
This is also said Photo Print. The fabric is coated with a light sensitive
chemicall and then any photograph may be printed on it. Dye-sublimation
printers are commonly used to produce Photo Print.
8) Foil Print:
The printing process is like Transfer Print. Foil papers are transferred onto
cloth in the fusing process.
Fig 8.2: Pigment Print
Fig 8.3: Metallic Print
Fig 8.4: Puff Print:
Fig 8.5 : Rubber Print
Fig 8.6: Transfer Print
Fig 8.7: Foil Print

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9) Flock Print:
Glue is painted on fabric first and then flock fiber is poured. It
requires a little high time for curing
(Minimum 2 minutes at 160ºC temperature).
10) Fluorescent Print:
Fluorescent Print is night glow as it
shines up under
a dark light. It produces light when we are
in a dark place.
11) Neon Print:
It’s a super bright colored print like Fluorescent print. But it has day
glow only.
12) Glitter Print:
Glitter Print brings sparkle to fabric because glitter powder is used. Glitter
Powder is generally PET (polyethylene terephthalate) with size
of 1/8″ to 1/256″.
It is found into square and hexagon shape.
13) Crack Print:
The crack ink is applied & dried up by effect of heat. This brings a vintage
look of crack
14) Burnout Print:
Acid type chemicals are used instead of color. This is applied only on
blended fabrics like PC & CVC. Cotton or other cellulosic fiber in fabric
is burned out or destroyed by strong mineral acids.
Common Printing Faults are given bellow:Print distortion
• Miss Print
• Uneven Print
• Blurred or Dark Patches
• Water Mark
• Misfits
• Stick in
Fig 8.8: Flock Print
Fig 8.9: Neon Print
Fig 8.11: Burnout Print
Fig 8.10: Crack Print

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Industrial Engineering (Chapter-9)
Industrial engineering is a branch of engineering concerned with the development, improvement,
implementation, and evaluation of integrated systems of people, money, knowledge, information,
equipment, material, and process. Industrial engineering draws upon the principles and methods of
engineering analysis and synthesis as well as mathematical, physical, and social sciences together with
the principles and methods of engineering analysis and design to specify, predict and evaluate the results
to be obtained from such systems. In lean manufacturing systems, industrial engineers work to eliminate
wastes of time, money, materials, energy, and other resources.
Objective Of IE:
• Process improvement by motion reduction.
• Reduce work in process (WIP) and remove the bottleneck.
• Increase the efficiency of operations.
• Evaluate operator and staff performance, disciplinary matters, training needs, and career
development.
• Set the target, layout design of the machine requirement, material flow, and clean
workstation to bring the best possible efficiency.
Major Parts of IE in Garments Industry:
• Analysis Procedure
• Operation Procedure
• Workers Assessment
Analysis Procedure:
• Basic
• Semi-Critical
• Critical
Basic Analysis:
• Operator Training Analysis
• Pre-Production Meeting Analysis
Semi Critical Analysis:
• SMV Analysis
• Pre-Define Motion Time Analysis
• Target Setting Analysis

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• Operator Breaks Down Analysis
• Thread Consumption Analysis
Critical:
• Time study
• Motion study
• Work study
• SMV analysis
• Bottle neck analysis
WORK STUDY:
Work study is the analysis of the operations required to produce a style. Effective work study
requires both methods analysis and work measurement. Methods are studied, analyzed, and the
elements of the method measured in terms of time consumed. Data are collected, analyzed, and
used to support decisions on rates and methods.
Definitions:
• Work study is primarily concerned with discovering the best ways of doing the job
and establishing standards based on such methods.
• “Work study is the technique of method study and work measurement employed to
ensure the best possible use of human and material resources in carrying out a
specified activity” ---- ILO.
Objectives of work study:
a) To obtain the optimum/most efficient use of man, machine, and material to accomplish the goal.
b) To examine the weakness/bottlenecks of production system.
c) To evaluate human work in an efficient manner.
d) To set standards for labor cost control.
e) To ensure job satisfaction of the workers through incentive bonus schemes.
f) Good Work study increases the rate of production.
g) Work study helps to compare the required machinery with the existing one and make a balance.
h) Good Work study reduces production time.
i) Profit of a factory can be ensured proper Work study.
j) Proper Work study ensures optimum production at the agree quality.
Motion Study:

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According to “GILBRETH”, motion study is the science of eliminating waste fullness, resulting
from using unnecessary, ill directed & inefficient motion.
Principles of Motion Study:
 Principles or rules relating to movement of human body:
a) Labor must move his/her body with speed for performing a job speed of work cannot be
increased without moving body properly.
b) The use of two hands at a time. It is important to increase the speed of work. E.g. -
Driving, Typing, Sewing, etc.
c) Must take in between a works for removing tiredness as a result work speed will be
increased and total work will be much more.
d) Take care of health and must arrange first aid and necessary medicine must keep inside
industry.
 Principles or rules relating to workstation:
a) All material machine, spare part, etc. must keep within the range of two hands of worker
at workstation.
b) Eyes are very much needed to perform certain types of job. In this case work should be
within the eyes range and sufficient light should be there.
c) All types of input of always are ready before station the job.
d) Workstation should be clean with sufficient air & light be there.
 Principles or rules relating to tools & equipment:
a) All tools & equipment must keep within the range of worker that is near to the hands of
worker.
b) If necessary, the hand of worker must keep free for doing any important job and in this
case legs of worker must be used.
c) Must use automatic system or conveyor belt for carrying inputs from one workstation to
other.
 Principles or rules relating to good transportation:
a) There should have nice device to transfer goods from one place to other on one worker
station to other, better there is fully automatic system.
b) That should have nice device for faster receiving raw materials from truck and from
delivery finished goods into truck.
 Principles or rules relating to time saving: