2 Weeks Textile Internship(Training) at Wintry Engineering and Chemicals Pvt. Ltd., Dombivali, Navi Mumbai

1. TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT
WINTRY ENGINEERING
& CHEMICALS PVT. Ltd.
Conducted at
Submitted by
Aditya Sharma (BFT/19/192)
Anshu Roy (BFT/19/409)
Aprajita Kumari (BFT/19/1623)
Aromal S S (BFT/19/182)
Dhruv Kumar Gupta (BFT/19/120)
Vishnu P R(BFT/19/355)
Department of Fashion Technology
National Institute of Fashion Technology Mumbai
July, 2021
Internship
Mentor: Mr. K Srinivasan
Internal
Mentor: Nitin Salve

2. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The Internship opportunity we had at Wintry Engineering and Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. was a great
chance for learning and professional development. Therefore, we consider ourselves as very lucky
individuals. We are also grateful for having a chance to meet so many wonderful people and
professionals who led us through this internship period.
We express our deepest thanks to Mr. K Srinivasan Iyer for conscious guidance and
encouragement to accomplish this assignment.
We are extremely thankful and pay our gratitude to our faculty Dr. Rashmi Thakur for her valuable
guidance and support throughout the project.
Last but not the least, we would like to extend our gratitude towards all the heads of the
departments, employees, and other interns who helped us understand the inner workings of the
industry.
The success and final outcome of this project required a lot of guidance and assistance from many
people. we heartily thank our internal mentors , Mr. Naidu, Mr. Prasad, Mr. Vinayak, and Mr.
Vivek Pandey.
Thank you,
Aditya Sharma
Anshu Roy
Aprajita Kumari
Aromal S.S
Dhruv Kumar Gupta
Vishnu P R
II

3. ABSTRACT
The industry internship is an introduction to provide the student an appreciation and working
knowledge of the industry on their own. The idealization of it is to blend their classroom
knowledge with the industry application using the tools they were academically equipped with the
Bachelors of Fashion. We explored the various departments in wintry in this period.
The exposure made us learn and apply this theoretical process to the practical world.
The process of learning in the industry and the documentation in the same is to provide a
fusion and a better understanding of the practical and theoretical learning from the academic
curriculum.
We also observed the working method and environment of workers and the ergonomically
associated factors, so we have tried to cover the major issues and possible solutions for
the stated.
The industry internship exposure has now made us a better explorer with an insight into the work
plan in different areas with its significance. The completion of this report is done with a synthesis
of practical methods as well as a theoretical approach, hand in hand, towards learning the elements
of this industry.
III

4. CONTENTS
IV

5. V

6. VI

7. VII

8. VIII

9. LIST OF FIGURES
IX

10. X

11. LIST OF TABLES
XI

12. Chapter-1
Introduction & Objectives

13. INTRODUCTION
Raw material
Grey department
Pre-treatment
Singeing
Desizing
Bleaching
Mercerization
Dying
Printing
Finishing
Quality checking
Packaging
The textile industry deals with clothes, garments, and fibers which concerns with design,
production, processing, manufacturing, and distribution. After agriculture, the textile industry is
the largest industry in India which is unique in terms of being capable of being an independent
industry. It has all the basic requirements of raw materials to the final products with huge
valuation at every stage of production. Textile internship as a study in the part of apparel
production which boosts the learning of the process in the textile industry which involves major
processing in the terms on raw material, grey department, fabric sourcing, pre-treatment process
which include (singeing,desizing, bleaching & mercerization) dying, printing, finishing, quality
control, packing.
Our internship observes mostly the functioning and processing of the textile industry. we also
greatly look into the ergonomics, working conditions, infrastructure, process flow, and other
important things in the manufacturing unit. Starting from scratch understanding all the small steps
in a process from the start to end on the, how they are carried and processed at each step.
We a group of 6 were interning in the factory named WINTRY ENGINEERING &
CHEMICAL PVT. LTD. for a time period of 2 weeks, which is located in dombivli East,
Mumbai, Maharashtra. These reports include all the information, learning, processes, step by step
from sourcing the raw materials to the final manufactured product. They are mainly focusing on
the manufacture of the finished fabric on almost all wearable garments, household upholstery, and
furnishing garments. The process includes:
1.
2.
3.
4.
2

14. OBJECTIVE
To understand the basic fundamentals of textile production.
To learn what exactly the fabric that we use at the consumer end undergoes.
Understanding all the processes right from the beginning to the end that fabric is
treated with.
Understanding of Grey, Preparatory, Dyeing, Printing, and Finishing process
through practical ways.
To learn how a worker-oriented production company works.
Understanding the hierarchy of the company.
To assess the state of work the workers undergo in the factory.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
3

15. Chapter-2
Company Overview

16. Raw material
Grey department
Pre-treatment
Singeing
Desizing
Bleaching
Mercerization
Dying
Printing
Finishing
Quality checking
Packaging
Wintry Engineering Private Limited was established in 2003 as a textile processing unit by the
founders: Dilipkumar Vinodlal Pacheriwala and Vishal Pradip Kumar Pacheriwala. The factory is
located in the indusrial district of Dombivli East. Wintry is a sevice based textile processing
organisation where the either the suppliers provide the raw materials to the unit and they process it
and provide it back to the supplier or the buyers can directly buy the processed fabrics from the
factory.
The processing units that are present at Wintry listed below:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
If we talk about the infrastructure of the factory, it is equipped with most of the next gen
technology machines that process the fabrics. Also, the factory is equipped with a state of the art
Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) that makes sure that there is minimal discharge that goes out to the
water bodies.
The products processed in the factory are not only sold domestically but also are exported to many
countries including Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and many more. There are about 250 employees in the
factory including workers. The annual turnover of the company is an approximate 200 crores.
ABOUT THE COMPANY
5
https://www.google.com/maps/place/Wintry+
Engineering+%26+Chemicals+Pvt.+Ltd./@1
9.2201584,73.1103444,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4
m5!3m4!1s0x3be795be334c2eff:0x3a9a8752
36783ca0!8m2!3d19.2202945!4d73.113015

17. PROCESS FLOW
RAW-MATERIAL
GREY DEPARTMENT
PRE-TREATMENT DEPARTMENT
DYEING DEPARTMENT
PRINTING DEPARTMENT
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
QUALITY INSPECTION
PACKING
6

18. Chapter-3
Raw material

19. RAW MATERIAL
The basic and main Raw-material of Wintry Engineering and Chemical Pvt. Ltd. is Grey, from
which the grey is gone through pre-treatment then dyeing or printing later finishing to create the
end-product that is finished, dyed, or printed fabric rolls.
Wintry imports Grey fabric from Maharastra and other states, such as Tamilnadu, Gujarat, kerala
3.1 MODAL COTTON - Made from beech tree pulp, Modal is a semi-synthetic fabric used
essentially for activewear, such as pajamas, underwear, and other household items like bedsheets
and towels.
This fabric is often blended with other fibers such as cotton and spandex for the purpose of adding
strength.
The fabric is supplied by M Sunderdas Textiles, Salem in Tamilnadu, at a rate of Rs 75 /meter.
3.2 COTTON - A soft fluffy usually white material made up of twisted hairs that surrounds the
seeds of a tall plant of warm regions and is spun into thread or yarn.
Cotton is supplied by Pramukh Cotton from Sarsav khadi in Gujarat. at a rate of Rs 70 /meter.
3.3 COTTON PLAIN WEAVE - Plain-weave refers to many different types of fabric with a
similar weaving pattern. Plain-weave is the most common type of weave, where the
horizontal (weft) yarns alternately pass over and under the vertical (warp) yarns to create
strong, hard-wearing fashion and furnishing fabrics.
Cotton Plain weave is supplied by Nandi Texfab Ltd. at a rate of Rs 85 /meter.
3.4 CAMBRIC - Cambric is a finely woven fabric made originally from linen but often now
from cotton.
Supplied by Mehrauli Textiles. Erode Tamilnadu, at a rate of Rs 31 /meter.
3.5 LYCRA - Lycra is a brand name for elastane, which is a highly elastic synthetic fabric.
... Unlike many other types of synthetic fabrics, Lycra is highly resistant to heat, and it was
quickly recognized as an excellent addition to heat-sensitive synthetics like polyester and
nylon.
Supplied by Mahalaxmi Fabrics in Kohlapur in Maharashtra at a rate of Rs 103 /meter.
3.6- SATIN - fabric is characterized by a soft, lustrous surface on one side, with a duller
surface on the other side.
supplied by Balden Textile Mills at Kohlapur , Maharashtra, at a rate of Rs 59.3 /meter.
8

20. 3.7 RAYON - Rayon is a synthetic fiber, made from natural sources of regenerated cellulose, such
as wood and related agricultural products. It has the same molecular structure as cellulose.
Rayon is suppplied by Mehrauli Textiles. Erode Tamilnadu, at a rate of Rs 40.5 /meter.
3.8 RAYON TWILL- Rayon Twill is elegant, medium weight, and has a soft hand finish. Its
beautiful drape effect is ideal for stylish jackets, pants, dresses, shirts
supplied by V.P Textiles Pvt. Ltd. at Erode in Tamilnadu. at a rate of Rs 55.7 /meter.
fig 3.1 - Raw-material
Table 3.1 - Supplier list and price
9

21. Chapter-4
Grey - Department

22. GREY DEPARTMENT
Lot Checking
Quality Checking
Quantity Checking
Grey fabric is the unprocessed or unfinished fabric, which has not been processed at all, fabric that
is collected directly from the weavers. It comes in the form of 'Lot, with the different fabrics
having different quality and quantities. One Lot (roll) consists of 300-500 meters of fabric. A
quantity of 1- 2 lakhs meters of fabric is being processed here. The most common fabric at Wintry
is Satin, Cotton, Rayon, Cambric.
After receiving the grey fabric the weight, quality, quantity, as well as the GSM is checked. Out
of all the fabric, 4 -5 rolls are been inspected. The process starts from *Checking
1.
2.
3.
Lot checking is done to check the number of lots that arrived from the supplier and to arrange
them according to the type of fabric.
4.1 QUALITY CHECKING
Quality checking is done manually, with the help of workers. they use to have a magnifying lens
over their eyes to see the errors in the fabrics as well as they go through the fabric by touching and
feeling it.
The common mistakes are seen in the fabric while checking is the weft missing and the wrinkles
over the fabric. Fabrics having up to 5 mistakes are considered for the next step and if the fabric is
having more mistakes have been returned to the supplier as a defective piece from there they have
bought it.
fig 4.1 - Quality Checking
11

23. 4.2 QUANTITY CHECKING
Quantity checking is done with help of an instrument called a fabric meter reader in which the
fabric is hanged on a hanging instrument and is hanged in a unique way like folding. so here 1 fold
counts for 1 meter.
The other important fact about these grey materials is that these fabrics are processed mechanically
and want to remove dust, dirt, or other impurities that should be removed for further process to
have good results in the upcoming process.
fig 4.2 - Quantity checking
One Operator
Two Helpers
One Assistant (Stitching person)
BATCHING MACHINE
After checking the Batching machine is used to convert the free width of fabric into Rolled
batches.
there are Six Batching machines working at the Grey department. A state-of-the-art Batching
machine is stated with a fabric meter counter.
For one Batching Machine, there will be,
1.
2.
3.
Brand: PARAS
Rpm : 197 / meter
5000 meters of fabric is been processed at a single run
12

24. The Dry Blower inside the Batching machine clears out the large impurities such as dirt, dust, and
other particles. A Grinder roller made of Rubber is been used at the end of the machine to stabilize
the fabric roll.
A 2 stitch Overlock stitching machine is used to attach fabric ends for continuous batching.
fig 4.3 - Batching Machine
13

25. Chapter-5
Pre- Treatment department

26. PRETREATMENT / PREPARATORY PROCESS
Textile Pretreatment is carried out to remove all impurities found on fiber so as to ensure complete
whiteness and dye absorbency. The raw grey fabric is home to a lot of visible and nonvisible
impurities such as oil, dust, parts of leaf, branch, stains of oil or crease from the machine,
As a whole, the preparatory process includes, Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching, Heat-
setting and Mercerization.
SINGEING
DESIZING
SCOURING
BLEACHING
MERCERIZATION
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
15

27. Plate singeing machine
Rotary-cylinder singeing machine
Gas singeing machine
5.1 SINGEING
Singeing is a process applied on fabrics and yarns to produce a flat smooth surface by burning the
protruding fibers from the fabric.
There are three main types of singeing machines:
1.
2.
3.
(a) Plate Singeing Machine
Here, the Fabric passes over and in contact with one or two heated curved copper plates. The
thickness of the plates ranges from 1 to 2 inches. The heating of the plates is done by a suitable
burning arrangement of gas mixed with air. The plates are heated to bright redness and the cloth
passes over and in contact with these plates at a speed ranging from 150 to 200 yards per minute.
(b) Rotary-Cylinder Singeing Machine
In this type of singeing machine, the fabric passes over and in contact with a heated rotary cylinder
made of copper or cast iron. The rotary cylinder has internal firing and revolves slowly so that
constantly a fresh surface of the roller comes in contact with the cloth. The direction of rotation of
the cylinder is opposite to the direction of the fabric so that the protruding fibers or nap of the
fabric is raised.This type of machine is particularly suitable for the singeing of velvets and other
pile fabrics.If the singeing of both sides of the fabric is required, then two cylinder are employed,
one for each side of the fabric.
(c) Gas Singeing Machine
In this type of singeing machine, the fabric passes over a burning gas flame at such a speed that
only the protruding fibers burn and the main body of the fabric is not damaged by the flame. This
is the most common type of machine used for singeing fabrics as well yarns
The main purpose of singeing is to burn the protruding fibres from the yarn and/or fabric surface.
In order to burn the protruding fibres, energy must be supplied. The supplied energy must be just
enough to burn only the protruding fibres, while keeping the firmly bound fibres in tact. This is
achieved by allowing time of contact between the singeing flame and the fabric to practically a
fraction of a second. As the temperature of the flame is too high (around 1300C), any regulation of
this temperature is out of the question. However, metering and control of thermal energy of the
flame is essential for the safe but effective burning off process.
16

28. PRE BRUSHING BURNER UNIT
BLOWER DESIZING SQUEEZING
Flame intensity
Fabric speed
Singeing position
Distance between flame burner and fabric
Flame Width
In this factory, mainly gas singeing is done.
Following are the important gas singeing parameters:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
The gas singeing process lies in this manner
J-SCRAY POST BRUSHING
BATCHING
There are 3 types of gas singeing
1: On fabric (perpendicular to the fabric)
2: On a roll (sideways to the fabric)
3: Angular (slanting to the fabric)
At the start, the fabric passes through a tension unit with guide rollers and bars, which ensure
crease-free entry of the fabric into the machine. Then, there are (optional) pre-drying cylinders that
even out any variations in the fabric moisture content and temperature.
5.1.1-J - SCRAY
It is used for the continuity of the machine by joining the fabric without any delay if it was not
there then the machine should turn off after every bundle of cloth, otherwise, the continuity will be
lost.
5.1.2-PRE - BRUSHING
It is used to pre-brush the fabric that is to removing dirt/dust, lint, and loose fibers from the fabric,
which causes the fibers to stick to the fabric surface to stand out for easy subsequent burning. A
dust collection system, provided just below the brush rollers, is connected to a powerful suction
unit, so as to make it easy for burning. here the fabric runs over in the opposite direction of the
brush.Normal polyester fiber brushes is been used.
17

29. 5.1.3 - BURNER UNIT
After pre-brushing, the fabric enters into the singeing chamber, where it passes over the burning
flames, which are positioned on both sides of the fabric. The cloth can be threaded so as to allow
singeing of either one or both sides of the fabric. Here the protruding fibers are burn from the
fabric by the gas singeing process. the gas used here is the common LPG gas. it works on the
flame intensity, the flame intensity differs according to different fabrics. The flame intensity works
on the ratio of 4:1 which is air: gas. Good singeing machines offer adjustable flame intensity,
flame width, and distance between the flame and the fabric.
Brand name: Yamuna
RPM: 1800
The gas outlet section of the burner is provided with a water jacket to keep the burner cool.
Adjustable water-cooled rollers are used to obtain different fabric/flame positions, which permit
desired degree of singeing effect on the different quality of fabrics by adjusting the guide roller
position with respect to the flame. A Carburettor or air/gas mixer allows automatic mixing of gas
with air to control the intensity of the singeing flame.
fig 5.1 - SINGEING Machine Diagram
18

30. fig 5.2 - SINGEING Machine
5.1.4 -POST BRUSHING
Post brushing is used for brushing section for clean-up/removal of burnt fibers.The after-brushing
keeps the subsequent impregnation-liquor cleaner and reduces the amount of dust entering in the
following process steps. Then, the fabric passes though a saturator, which contains the desizing
agent along with the auxiliary chemicals.
5.1.5- SQUEEZING
Squeezing is done to remove all the excess chemicals and impurities in it so as to get it best for the
further processing. then it is batched in a container and get it for further processing.
19

31. Enzymatic desizing
Oxidative desizing
Acid steeping
Rot steeping
Desizing with hot caustic soda treatment, and
Hot washing with detergents
5.2 DESIZING
Singeing process facilitates and speeds up Desizing, If the fabric is impregnated with Desizing
liquor immediately after Singeing. Desizing is done in order to remove the size from the warp
yarns of the woven fabrics. Warp yarns are coated with sizing agents prior to weaving in order to
reduce their frictional properties, decrease yarn breakages on the loom and improve weaving
productivity by increasing weft insertion speeds. The sizing material present on the warp yarns can
act as a resist towards dyes and chemicals in textile wet processing.
Sizing is the process of producing a protective layer of coating on the warp yarn to minimize yarn
breakage during weaving and further process. Sizing is the most important operation in preparing
warp yarn for weaving especially with cotton yarn.
The sizing agents generally include:
1 :PVA (Polyvinyl alcohol)
2: CMC (Carboxymethyl cellulose)
3: Acrylytes
Corn flour is the most commonly added size in the size.
5.2.1TYPES OF DESIZING
fig 5.3 - Desizing Machine
20

32. The fiber is not been damaged
No aggressive chemicals is been used
Wide application processes
High biodegradability
Supplementary cleaning effect
Effectiveness for tapioca starches
No loss in effectiveness due to enzyme poisons
The most commonly used desizing used in this factory is enzymatic desizing and oxidative
desizing.
still, enzymatic desizing is the most used, and oxidative desizing is used in some rare conditions.
Enzymes are biological catalysts that speed up the reaction. These enzymes are only active within
a specific range of pH, which must be maintained by a suitable pH stabilizer.
Enzymatic desizing is used for the removal of starch, amylases, and many other particles. The
main advantage of using these enzymes is that it decomposes the starch without affecting
cellulosic fiber.
305 DE is the most commonly used enzyme desizing agent in this factory. Certain salts may be
used to enhance the temperature stability of enzymes. Surfactants may be used to improve the
wettability of the fabric and improve the size removal.
Enzymatic desizing offers the following advantages:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Some disadvantages of enzymatic desizing include lower additional cleaning effect towards other
impurities, no effect on certain starches (e.g. tapioca starch), and possible loss of effectiveness
through enzyme poisons.
Oxidative desizing can be affected by hydrogen peroxide, chlorites, hypochlorites, bromites,
perborates, or persulphates. Two important oxidative desizing processes are the cold pad-batch
process based on hydrogen peroxide with or without the addition of persulphate, and the oxidative
pad-steam alkaline cracking process with hydrogen peroxide or persulphate. The advantages
offered by oxidative desizing are:
1.
2.
3.
fig 5.4 - Desizing Machine Diagram
21

33. SCOURING
Scouring is a procedure through which natural impurities (oil, wax, gum, fat, etc) and added
impurities are eliminated during the manufacturing process.
All raw textiles are referred to as 'gray fabric material' when in natural form. This gray fabric is
natural with color, odor, and impurity not appropriate for clothing. Not only are the natural
impurities remaining on the gray matter but also the additional products produced during
cultivation, e.g. raw cotton has impurities such as water, nitrogen, mineral matter, waxes, pigment
residues, etc.
The elimination of these natural colorants and add-ons to create the material in a phase ready for
dyeing is called scouring.
So, there are two types of methods are using for scouring;
·Batch process/Discontinuous process. (by Kier Boiling/Jigger/Winch dyeing machine)
·Continuous process. (by J-Box machine)
Continuous scouring process: In the Continuous process, a J-Box machine is used. It is called a J-
Box machine because the scouring vessel looks like the English letter ‘J’. The J-box is mainly a
steel chute with big capacity fabrics. In comparison to a keir where it is first in the last out, the
fabric is supplied from one end and pulled from the other (first out). The internal side of the J-box
is polished and is insulated to minimize thermal losses. De-sizing, scoring, and bleaching can be
performed at once in this system.
The Continuous Souring process can be separated into four parts of J-Box:
1. Saturation.
2. Pre-heater.
3. J-Box.
4. Washing unit.
1. Saturation: Saturation is made without caustic soda by the above-mentioned recipe. The fabric is
then taken into the solution via the guide roller. In this case, the temperature is approximately 0-80
° C.
2. Pre-heater: The material is transferred to the J-box during pre-heating at the temperature of
110-120 ° C.
3. J-Box: Caustic soda solution from J-Box is maintained and this solution is placed in the fabric.
The temperature here is approximately 100 ° C. NaOH responds with and removes the impurities
in the fabric in J-Box.
4. Washing unit: Here, the water-soluble impurities or products are removed. The material is first
cleaned in warm water and then dried in cold water.

34. Oxidative Bleaching.
Reductive Bleaching.
Optical whiteners.
5.3 BLEACHING
After the desizing and Scouring processes, the fabric will be in an absorbent form and can be dyed
without an issue. But the Fabric will still be yellowish or brownish in color, which may affect the
tone and brightness of the shade from the dyeing course.
The degree of whiteness required for white goods will be less satisfactory since none of the
previous preparatory processes can remove the coloring matters.
Bleaching is the process of removing natural coloring matters present in the fiber. Hydrogen
peroxide is the most commonly used bleaching agent. Hydrogen peroxide is being manufactured
from various routes. It is also safe for all textile fibers. Bleaching is the heart of the Textile
industry. Bleaching is carried out at the CBR - Continous Bleaching Range.
Even after bleaching, the whiteness may fall short for white goods. Whiteness can be further
enhanced by treating with a blue pigment or dye, which suppresses the yellowish tinge of the
materials, or with an optical brightening agent.
Bleaching can be classified into 3
1.
2.
3.
Oxidative bleaching is a commonly used practice over reductive bleaching. The bleaching agent
reagent decomposes I alkali to form active oxygen. This active Oxygen will partly or completely
remove the coloring matter on the fabric surface.
CBR -Continous Bleaching Range combines Bleaching with any of the pretreatment Processes
such as Scouring or Desizing. Through which it reduces the number of operations and Energy
consumption. At Wintry the CBR combines bleaching with Desizing.
Being a good Oxidising agent Hydrogen Peroxide reacts directly with the double bonds of larger
organic molecules to create Organic peroxides
2 NaOH + H O
2 2 2
Na O + 2H O
2 2
22

35. J-SCRAY PADDING UNIT
HOT WASH HOT WASH HOT WASH
FABRIC BATCH STEAMER
HOT WASH
-process flowchart of Continous bleaching range
Speed of the machine is displayed on the small digital screen at every stage of the CBR which is
an average of 70 meters /min
Length of the machine: 280 m
pH maintained of the liquor: 10-12
The capacity of minute trough: 50 L
Brand: Menzel
Table 5.1 - CBR Recipie
5.3.1 METHOD OF BLEACHING
Fabric is feeded into the J-Scray by means of Guiders and Guide rollers. The needed fabric can be
single ply or 2-ply as per the Specification of the fabric.
A beatter roller is used to squeeze any remaining crease in the fabric., later it is taken into the
padding unit by bow rollers to prevent from crease formation.
23

36. By using Immersion rollers the fabric is immersed into the liquor. Which has a pipe attached to it
through which it maintains the level of liquor from minute trough.
Sensors are used receive the liquor from the tank.
The fabric is later feeded into the streamer using a sequeezer called optimal roller. At the first floor
of the double bed structure, fabric is arranged in a double S threading.
The steamer `is use to cook the fabric at a good temperature which helps to open up the pores in
the fabric which helps to absorb the die easily.
The dwell time varies in regards with pretreatment process or dyeing process that the fabric has
gone through
The temperature is maintained at 95°c-97°c. The Temperature in the ground floor compartment of
the Streamer is less compared to the first floor ignorer to avoid cloud formation.
The fabric is then carried out through a metallic guider to a washing chamber of 1000L.
Here the fabric is processed with the chemicals including the wetting agent, peroxide,caustic
solution, sequestering agent and stabilizer.
Wetting agent helps to reduce the surface tension of the water and helps it in the bleaching
process.Wetting agents are basically surfactants that lower the surface tension of a liquid, allowing
easier spreading, and lower the interfacial tension between two liquids. ... The wetting agents
make the fiber surface clean and help improve the solidity of reactive and disperse dyeing.
Peroxide is used as the whitening agent which will make the the help the fabrics to be whiten.It
gives the fibers a high degree of brightness while at the same time preserving their mechanical
properties.
Caustic solution is to give stability to the peroxide. It is also to increase the strength, lustre and dye
affinity of the fabric.
Stabilizer is use to stabilize the reaction between sodium hydroxide & peroxide. Otherwise it will
leads to an exothermic reaction. It achieves uniform bleaching by suppressing rapid decomposition
of hydrogen peroxide. It prevents degradation of strength and pinholes by suppressing
decomposition of 2, and plays an important role to obtain high quality bleached products.
Post washing is done after the bleaching.Total 4 washer are there inside the factory at the
bleaching process.
3 washer for the hot water wash
1 washer for the acidic wash
After bleaching process the fabric should be in a level PH ,which must be acidic range ranging
between ( 5 - 6 ).
24

37. fig 5.5 - Batch fed into J-scray
fig 5.6 - Padding and Steamer
fig 5.7- Bleaching chemicals

38. fig 5.9 - VDR and Inspection
fig 5.8 - Continous hot wash and acid wash
26

39. 5.4 MERCERIZATION
Mercerization is a permanent chemical process of finishing cotton by treatment in the strong
caustic soda solution, usually applied to a permanent high luster, increases its hygroscopicity, and
strength and improves its dyeability. the treated cotton does not appear greatly different from
ordinary cotton, except for its enhanced sheen, but it has undergone a drastic internal change
resulting in great changes in other properties, and these are sometimes objects of the process.
The sole purpose of mercerization is Lustre along with a slight flight in strength.
The process consists of the treatment of cellulosic materials with concentrated solutions of caustic
soda at a temperature of 15-18 degrees centigrade. Mercerized cellulose is hydrated cellulose,
which is a product which from the chemical standpoint is identical to the initial cellulose, but
differing from it by physical properties.
A subsidiary effect of mercerization is that it gives the cotton an increased affinity for dyes and
moisture and generally makes it more reactive to all influences. In the case of mercerized fiber less
dye is required to obtain the same intensity of coloring as in the case of non- mercerized fiber:
when dyeing in light colors, the dye consumption is 10- 15% and when dyeing in dark colors it is
25-30% less.
Mercerization alters the appearance and geometrical characteristics of fabric making mercerization
p permanent chemical reaction because of the caustic soda solution that results in cotton fiber
swelling, hydrogen bond breaking, and weak van der Wall forces between cellulose chains, and
leaving the cellulosic chains in a reorganized state.
J-SCRAY PRE-PROCESSING
IMPREGNATION
TANK
CAUSTIC SODA
SOLUTION
SQUEEZING
FABRIC BATCH INITIAL SQUEEZER
STABILIZER
HOT- WATER
WASH
ACID WASH
POST- SQUEEZER
DRYING
SECTION
-process flow of mercerisation plant.
27

40. The batch collected at the J-scray is fed into the Initial squeezers, in an effort to remove all the
remaining post bleaching chemicals that might be accumulated on the fabric. and to add a pre-
wetting time.
later the Fabric is guided to the Impregnation tank by guide rolls where the fabric comes in contact
with the Caustic soda solution. the causticity of the solution is kept at 48-52 Wt%
It is then fed around a series of rollers (Squeeze rolls and Dead rolls) which keep it flat and smooth
while controlling the time of caustic exposure. The fabric is sprayed with rinse water and then
washed with a neutralizing chemical before final drying.
A series of six hot washer machines is used for the post washing
fig 5.10 - Mercerization plant diagram
28

41. fig 5.11 - Mercerization plant
29

42. First recovery Tank - Used Caustic solution and leftover caustic solution along with water is
stored in one of the initial Tanks
Weaklye - The liquor is transmitted to weaklye as to pup the same into the next Vibrator
Vibrator - Vibrator removes impurities by a process similar to curdling
Heater - Heater is used for distillation for separating water from Caustic solution and make it
concentrate for the further process
Recovery Tanks - The Recycled Caustic soda is collected and mixed with the newly arrived
Caustic soda and pumped back to the mercerization plant for reuse
Caustic Recovery Plant ensures recovery of caustic by concentrating weak lye which gets recycled
back to the mercerizer saving millions of Rupees every year. CRP results in a substantial reduction
in the size of effluent treatment plants which results in saving in form of capital investment and
other expenditures of the process. In addition, the hot water recovered makes running the
merceriser at a fraction of the cost. All this ensures not only a step towards zero liquid discharge
but also a huge addition to profitability.
All the washer liquor from the mercerization plant is collected via pipelines and recycled back into
caustic solution. at Caustic Recovery Plant.
1.
1.
1.
1.
1.
5.4.1- CRP - CAUSTIC RECOVERY PLANT
fig 5.12 - Caustic Recovery Plant diagram
30

43. fig 5.13 - Caustic Recovery Plant
31

44. Chapter-6
Dyeing department

45. 6.1 PRE DYEING- DECHLORINATION
Before Dyeing, antichlor(sodium hypochlorite) is added to remove the chlorine from the fabric.
It reacts with the chlorine present in the fabric and chlorine gas(Cl2) is released.
The dyeing process requires the fabric to be passed through a liquid solution containing the dye
solution.
6.2 DYEING PROCESS
Various dyeing processes are required for different fabrics.
Cellulose fibres(cotton, jute, hemp) are dyed with Bifunctional reactive dyes.
Protein fibres(silk, wool) are dyed with Acid dyes.
Polyester and other synthetic fabrics are dyed with the help of disperse dyes at a high temperature.
For Natural Cellulosic Fibres, Reactive(bifunctional) dyes are added to the tank. The process of
dyeing takes place in two parts, forward and reverse for even dyeing. When the Fabric goes
through the solution, the dye in the solution gets on the fabric which depletes the amount of dye in
the solution resulting in faded dying for the later fabric. Therefore, we dip the fabric forwards as
well as backwards after adding the second half of the dye to achieve even dyeing. This goes for
both Cellulosic and Protein fibres. Natural fibres are dyed in alkaline pH, dyes react better with
fabric in alkaline pH. Dyeing is most efficient at 60°C, but it can also be done at room
temperature.
The process of Dyeing happens in three steps:
Step 1: Adding dye to the tank
The pH of the dyeing solution(liquor) is alkaline.
Dye Bath- %dye + Acetic Acid 0.5 g/l DFT 0.5g/l to 0.250 g/l, Lubricating agent 1% to 0.5%
Ratio- 1:4 (The liquor ratio in an exhaust dyebath is the ratio of the weight of the dry material
being dyed to the water weight of the dyebath).
100 kg to 400 Ltr Solution(liquor)
Step 2: Adding Salt to dye solution before dipping the fabric
Salt is essential for dyeing because it acts as a catalyst in the dyeing process. It helps to transfer the
dye particles onto the fabric, which basically speeds up the dyeing process. The salt used is
Sodium Chloride(NaCl) also known as common salt. Another reason why salt is added beforehand
is that it breaks the bonds between dye, fabric and fixation liquid.
31
32

46. Step 3: Adding Fixation(alkali) after dyeing first
Fixation chemical- the alkali is necessary for dyeing as it helps to fixate the dye on the fabric,
without which the dye would come off on the first wash. The alkali used is Sodium
bicarbonate(baking soda). NaHCO3. It is added after the fabric is dyed. In chemical terms, Sodium
bicarbonate attaches itself to the dye particles present in the fabric and to the fabric itself, acting as
a placeholder for the dye particles. This is why it is added after dyeing, otherwise, it will attach to
the dye particles in the dyeing solution, which will increase the size of the dye particles and hence,
result in the dye not being able to attach to the fabric effectively. The alkali is diluted beforehand.
The reactive dyes used are-
Ramazol Dye
Dye star
Jay Chemical
Colour Tex
To achieve optical whiteness, the fabric is passed
through peroxide solution(H2O2).
6.3 Dyeing of Synthetic Fibers
The process of dyeing synthetic fibres like polyester is a little different from the others. The
chemicals used are the same, the process is different. The dyeing process is called HTHP(High-
Temperature High-Pressure)
The type of dye used is Disperse dye, it does not react with the fabric, instead spreads the dye
particles in the solution.
The process happens at a high temperature at 80°C.
The temperature is raised at 1°C/min till 130°C, holding for 30 mins and cooled at 1°C/min back
to 80°C.
fig 6.1 COLOUR MIX ROOM
33

47. 6.4 Machines used for Dyeing
6.4.1 Bhatt Bros- Jigger- 35nos
Capacity-
500 kg
Classic Jigger Machine is perhaps the most important and universal bleaching and dyeing
machine. It can also be used for Pre-treatments of Fabrics like desizing, Scouring, Bleaching,
dyeing and after-treatments of Fabric.
Classic Auto Jigger targets the market that consists of low-capital investments and low-running
costs and yet dominates the textile market with consecutive results in batch to batch form.
Salient Features :
Winding and Unwinding S.S rollers. (Roller Face Width: As per the requirement) S.S tank
consisting of optimum capacity.
A. C Inverter Drive.
Inverter drive with a variable running setting and Auto Programmable micro process controller.
Manually Operable brakes for tension Control and regulation. Programmable Temperature for
heating of Liquor in the trough within fair timing. Automated Bump-less Reversal at the time of
Winding and unwinding. Hold Mode.
TCapacity
300 kg
6.4.2 PLC Based Rapid Jet Dyeing Machine
Machine pressure vessels and major wet parts are fabricated out of stainless steel AISI 316/316L
highly corrosion-resistant material.
Heavy-duty stainless steel centrifugal pump for optional dye liquor circulation.
Highly efficient heat exchanger for fast heating and cooling.
One stainless steel filtering device is placed in such a way for easy cleaning. One unique design of
jet nozzle can provide a high discharge of liquor with subsequent pressure to ensure fast
movement of fabric transport up to 300 Mtrs/min and the speed of fabric can be adjusted, required
to the desired quality.
A mirror polished fabric transport perforated basket for easy trouble-free movement of fabric from
back to the front of the machine. The perforated basket is fabricated in such a way that the welded
part does not come in contact with the fabric.
For preparing chemicals, the colour kitchen tank is made out of stainless steel 316 and is provided
with the required values for auto dozing.
All valves are made of investment casting and stainless steel 316.
An electrical control panel with microprocessors to operate the machine is provided with
pneumatic control circuits.
Magnetic level indicator duly calibrated for correct liquor measurement.
Take off the reel with a direct couple geared motor and stainless steel structure.
34

48. 6.4.3 Kuster, Menzel- Padding Mangle- 2 nos
Comprising
- high cloth feeding
- ERHARDT & LEIMER edge uncurlers
- bow roller prior entrance
- pad mangle with swimming S-roller
- S-rollers pneumatic adjustable for even nip on the dye stuff application
- delivery onto big batcher
- MENZEL
- hydraulic unit for motor
- inverter Lenze
Accessories
- SERA pump
- new pumps for feeding
6.4.4 Texfab- Softflow
Capacity-
4 to 12 chambers, 100 kg each
Description
The liquor ratio starts with 1:5 for polyester and 1:6 for cotton. Soft Nozzle and penetration pipe
have been specially conceived for mild surface treatment of the material to be dyed.
The special full-flooded nozzle can be used from 40 mm to 200 mm in diameter.
Rapid heating and cooling, overflow rinse and pump to drain.
Power clean, a highly efficient spray system for boil out for machine cleaning
Excellent results are achieved in a very short process to complete one turn, as one basket holding
capacity is 150kg of fabric.
Lifter reel is driven by a frequency inverter controlled motor, for fabric speed up to 250 Mtrs /Min.
subject to the quality of fabric.
Heavy-duty stainless steel centrifugal pump for optional dye liquor circulation. Thanks to
turbopump which consumes less power and high discharge of liquor.
Pressure vessels and all wet parts of the machine are fabricated from stainless steel AISI 316 /
316L highly corrosion resistance.
All flanges, plaiter, take-off roller is made out of stainless steel 304.
Bigger capacity colour Kitchen tank is available with stirrer & valves.
All safety devices required for a pressure vessel are incorporated with the machine.
Magnetic level indicator duly calibrated in terms of litres.
Outer finish Shot Blasted.
35

49. 6.4.5 Winch Machine
Capacity
800 kg
Description
The winch machine consists of elliptical rollers.
Can be used for scouring, desizing, dyeing, on low tension fabrics such as silk, embroidery fabric.
After dying on the padding mangle, the fabrics are kept soaked for some time.
For dark shades- 16 hrs
For light shades- 8-10 hrs
fig 6.2 Jigger Dyeing Machine fig 6.3 U Jet Dyeing Machine
fig 6.4 Padding Mangle
Dyeing Machine
fig 6.5 Softflow Dyeing Machine
fig 6.6 Winch Dyeing Machine

50. Chapter-7
Printing department

51. 7.1 PRE-PRINTING GUM PADDING
After dying, Gum padding is done for the stabilization of fabric on the rollers while printing.
Fabric is coated with gum to stabilize the dyed fabric for further printing. After applying Gum to
the fabric, it is sent for drying into a heated chamber.
cotton fabric is heated at 120 C.
Gum Padding is done for the stabilisation of the fabric on the rollers for printing and to avoid
slippage.
7.2 PRINTING PROCESS
Two types of Prints-
Proatian
Proatian prints use reactive dyes which combine with the fabric and colour ‘it’.
Pigment
Pigment prints are prints that form a layer on top of the fabric.
Two Types of the printing process-
7.3 ROTARY PRINTING
This involves pressing the dyes through the rollers onto the fabric with each roller being able to
print a different colour and pattern on the fabric. Total 12 different colours and/or patterns can be
printed per machine.
There is a head attached to each roller which controls the speed and pressure of that roller. Colours
are pumped through the inner lining of a pipe attached to the printing machine. The standard rate
of the machine is 30-35 meters per min. The highest speed used is 40-45 m per min. Followed by a
drying chamber that heats at 180-190°C.
7.4 FLATBED SCREEN PRINTING
Automatic printing machine. The main advantage of the flatbed is that, unlike rotary machines
where the pattern is repeated after 64-84 cm, in flatbed, we can push it up to 120 or 140 since there
is a screen instead of the roller whose width can be modified according to need.
After printing,
For Proatian Print, the fabric is sent to the Loop Ager, where it is exposed to high temperature and
steam to stabilize the dye on the fabric.
In the case of Pigment Print, the fabric is sent for Curing, where it is exposed to a high temperature
of- 180°C to stabilise the print dye.
38

52. 7.5 PRINITNG MACHINES
Rotary Printing machines can print up to 5000 meters per hour while flatbeds can only print 1000
meters per hour.
Rotary printing can repeat patterns after a 64-84 cm gap, while flatbed can repeat patterns at gaps
up to 120 cm.
The source of heat in the machines is from the heated oil flowing through the pipes which in turn
heat the chambers.
Alginate 1.5%
Sodium bicarbonate 4%
Urea 10%
Thickener (VT Print) (Pidilite)
Water
Binder 20%
Fixer 3%
Urea 5%
Lycer Ammonia 1%
Thickener 2%
Water
7.6 COMPOSITION OF PRINTING DYES/COLOURS
Proatian Dye
Pigment Dye
7.7 PRINTING ROLLERS MAKING
The Main roller is made of a fine Nickel Mesh. Each roller can print up to 10000 meters after
which it needs to be replaced.
The rollers are received packed and folded, which upon heating turn circular.
The roller is coated with a chemical called Lycer using a coating machine called SPG Stormac
after which it is passed through the drying machine(EMBE) at a temperature of 60°C. It is then
sent for printing the design onto the roller.
There are 2 methods of making a design on the roller:
The roller is sent inside a machine called Nova Stripping Machine where the inverse of the design
area is covered with special black ink and then exposed to light, which hardens the ink. Then it is
washed with a stream of water which removes the non-hardened ink, exposing the design.
fig 7.1 Printing Chemicals
39

53. Table 7.1 - list of machines at printing.
Here, the roller is put into the Lazer mEngraving machine which uses lazers to print the pattern
onto the roller.
40

54. fig 7.2 Screens for Flatbed fig 7.3 Flatbed Printing
fig 7.4 Rotary Printing
fig 7.5 Making of Rollers

55. Chapter-8
Finishing department

56. FINISHING PROCESS
Finishing is the final processing department that the fabric enters after dyeing and printing. The
process of finishing imparts the desired aesthetic and functional qualities on the fabric according to
the end use. The various types of aesthetic and functional finishes are listed below:
The following finishes were applied to the fabrics at Wintry Engineering. The finishes were
mostly aesthetic oriented with sanforization being the exception.
8.1 - SILICONE FINISHING
Mostly applied to cotton and other cotton blend fabrics, silicone finishes are applied to provide a
soft durable finish. Various silicone polymers amino, amido, organo and epoxy are used for this
type of finish but here at Wintry, amino silicones were used as the basic polymer for applying as
the finish.
The silicone is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:4 before the application. It is never diluted with
hot water with the pH being in between 4.5 – 5. The pH adjustment is supposed to be done using
glacial acetic acid.
The silicone finish is applied using a stenter machine. This machine consists of a padding mangle
that exerts a pressure of 3 Kg/N which ensures the fabric gets penetrated with the chemical and
then has heat chambers where the fabric is next moved. The heat chambers are 3 meters long each
and there are 8 such chambers through which the fabric passes.
A general temperature of 150 - 180⁰C is provided for fabrics like cotton whereas for velvet, lycra
and polyester a temperature of more than 180⁰C is provided.
Table 8.1 - list of finishing
43

57. fig 8.1 - Line and length diagram of EHWHA Textinno stenter machine.
fig 8.2 - Stenter Machine
This particular temperatures according the fabrics are provided in order to make these respective
fabrics dimensionally stable. The dwell time for the fabric in the heat chamber is 45 seconds. The
temperature in the first chamber is kept low as the wet processed fabric directly comes into the
first chamber.
44

58. Steel + CCR: Provides smoothness. (Used in Ladies wear)
CCR + Polyamide: Provides luster. (Used in Shirts)
Steel + Polyamide: Provides fine smoothness. (Used in Kids wear)
The stenter machine along with applying the silicone finish, also provides shrinkage control to the
fabric using overfeeding. It also helps in dimensional stability of the fabric using heat setting as
mentioned earlier.
The machine also checks for and rectifies bowing and skewing as it applies stress from one side
and strain from another to straighten the orientation. The brands of stenter machines used in
Wintry were EHWHA (Korea) and Mortex (Italy).
8.2 - CALENDARING
This is a mechanical finish that is applied at last after all the wet finishes are applied. The fabric is
passed through heated rollers and pressure is applied because of which the surface of the fabric
acquires a smooth and glossy hand or feel. Cotton is the main fabric that undergoes calendaring as
smoothness and gloss is desired on cotton fabric.
Two types of calendar machines are used at wintry namely three bowl and four bowl calendar
machines. The three bowl calendar machines consist of three rollers through which the fabric is
passed through to make it smooth. There are wo rollers made of compressed cotton rolls (CCR)
and one roller made of steel.
The fabric when passed between CCR and steel rollers acquires the calendar finish. Similarly the
four bowl calendar machine consists of two CCR rollers, one steel roller and one poly amide
roller. The combination of different rollers are used to impart different properties to the fabric:
1.
2.
3.
The pressure with which the fabric is passed between the rollers is somewhere between 110-120
N. The temperature provided is generally around 120⁰C
and is provided using a synthetic oil namely thermic oil.
Calendaring is not a permanent finish as it can wear out after 20-25 washes in cellulosic fabrics.
The durability is slightly higher in synthetic fabrics which goes to approximately somewhere
between 30-35 washes.
The machine vendor for calendaring in wintry is a local one and the brand is namely Mangesh
Engineering. There are two calendaring machines in the finishing department.
45

59. 8.3 - SUEDING OR PEACH FINISH
The raising or creation of fibrous surface by the abrasion of fabric on one or both sides is known as
sueding. This is a mechanical aesthetic finish. There is one machine here at wintry that imparts
peach finish onto the fabrics. The machine is CARU Easy Brush Unica. Some of the machine
specifications are listed below:
fig 8.3 - 4 Bowl Calendaring machine fig 8.4 - 3 Bowl Calendaring
The fabric is first passed through of a set of five rollers which brushes the surface of the fabric and
break the permanent fibers on the surface. It is then passed through a diamond cut rubber roller
that raises those broken fibers from the surface thus giving the fabric a napped feel. This process is
generally done after the fabric is ready for dyeing (RFD).
Sueding is done to create a soft and delicate feel on the surface of the fabric. Fabrics with peach
finish are generally used in infant wear.
Table 8.3.1 - Specification for Caru.
46

60. fig 8.5 - Sueding finish diagram fig 8.6 - Caru Easy brush Unica
fig 8.7 - Internal pictures of Caru
47

61. 8.4 - FRAGRANCE FINISH
When the fabric is imparted with an fragrant odor so as to act as a perfume in itself, that type of
finish is known as fragrance finish. The demand of fragrance finish has been gradually increasing
in the Middle East and thus the fabrics imparted with this finish are directly sent to export. The
procedure of making the fabric fragrant is very chemical in nature.
A micro encapsulation technology is used for the fragrance finish. Very small fragrant particles
(generally alcohol based) that go by the size of 10-3 Nano-meter are micro encapsulated using
chemical coating and the resulting particles are then fused over the fabric.
The fabric hence becomes fragrant or scented. This is not a permanent finish though as the finish
tends to wear out after 25 approximate washes.
The fragrant finish is generally used in ladies wear and also sometimes in sportswear were the
output odor is too much and fragrant finished fabrics kind of cancel that out.
8.5 - SANFORIZATION
The final processing unit where the fabric arrives after going through all the finishes is
Sanforization. This is the process where it is ensured that the fabric should not undergo any kind of
shrinkage after it is provided to the consumer. The fabric gets pre-shrunk at the industrial level as
much as it needs to and thus not much shrinkage is left by the time it reaches the consumers.
The fabric is first fed into the sanforizing machine where it is treated with water or steam over a
heated cylinder to promote shrinkage. Once the fabric is shrunk, it is pressed against a heated
rubber roller which allows the fabric to relax.
The greater the pressure applied with the help of the roller, greater will be the shrinkage
afterwards. The hardness of rubber is supposed be 40-48 durometer. The temperature of the rubber
must be between 70-100◦C.
The whole process of Sanforization produces a maximum pre shrinkage of 15%. After this
process, the fabric is sent to an ironing chamber where the fabric is dimensionally stabilized at a
temperature of 120◦C.
The industrial workers and operators used the term zero to mention sanforizing. The idea behind
this is the fact that the fabric after it undergoes Sanforization should ideally have zero shrinkage.
Hence, the term zero. There was a total of 5 sanforizing machines at wintry
48

62. which carried out the same process at the same speed that is 40-50 meters per minute. All these
machines were from the brand Ronson.
fig 8.8 - Sanforization Diagram
49

63. fig 8.9 - Sanforization
50

64. Chapter-9
Inspection Department

65. FABRIC INSPECTION
The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-grading
system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics.
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance
of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect. The defect
can be in either length or width direction, the system remains the same. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment and
make sure to select at least one roll of each colourway.
Fabric Inspection is the systematic observation of fabrics to decide whether it meets: Client’s
specification in terms of count/construction, colour, design, measurement specifications, hand/feel
and other specific quality parameters laid down by the clients. This will minimize the number of
panels or garments rejected for fabric faults, thereby ensuring the quality of the finished goods.
Fabric inspection is also considered a pre-production inspection for garments or other textile
products.
9.1 - OBJECTIVES
The main objective of the inspection is the detection of defects and non-conformance as early as
possible in the manufacturing process.
Minimizing the time and money wastage by correcting the defective raw materials.
Fabrics supplied to customers meet their specifications and standards; thereby they faceless
customer returns and recalls.
Fabric inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric
faults.
Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures finished garment quality and reduces rejects and
improves efficiency and timely deliveries.
9.2 - FABRIC ISPECTION SYSTEM
There are various fabric inspection systems. The most commonly used Inspection systems in
wintry are 4- Point systems.
Acceptance point – count: 25 per 100 meters.
Inspection is done manually as well as with the help of the fabric inspection.
1.
2.
3.
52

66. 9.3 - MACHINES USED FOR FABRIC INSPECTION
9.3.1 - MODEL CHECK MASTER - B
The Development of this multi drive performance of fabric spreading machine model Check
Master - B is born of lots of innovation & year of experience to meet all customers’ demands the
guarantee there is tensionless handing of Fabric Inspection machine, accurate length measurement
and perfects straight selvedge & compact rolling. We have manufacturers suppliers and exporter of
fabric spreading machine in Mumbai India to entire world, and we consistently focus to customer
satisfaction and requirement.
Specificaton
• Variables speed 5- 50 Meters / Min
• Full Forward & Reverse run
• Top and Bottom Illumination
• Fabric Inspection Machine Mechanical Counter Meter
• Auto tension control
• Accurate Fabric Edge Control
• Adjustable angle of Inspection table
• Scroll Roll and Bow pipe to control crease
Optional
• Fabric Machine Auto Stop at Feed
• Electronic Counter Meter
• Hood on Inspection Table
• Foot Switch Control
Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following:
Table 9.2.1 - list of defects and points
53

67. • Paper Tube Storage Rack
• Wide Measuring Scale
• Fabric Inspection Machine Doffing
• Selvedge Shifting Device for Thick Selvedge
• Variables Roll Compactness
• Software for Data Logger
9.3.2 - TOPIWALA FABRIC INSPECTION
MODEL-1530
Product Specification
Usage/Application: Textile Mill, Weaving Unit, Air Jet and Water Jet Loom Unit
Material: Steel
Machine Type : Automatic
Model :1530
Voltage:440 Volt
Brand : Topiwala
Power: 3 Phase, 50-60 Hz
fig 9.1 - Inspection machines
54

68. Chapter-10
PACKAGING

69. PACKAGING
Rolls / Hour : 20 - 40 Nos.
Weight / Roll (max.) : 400 kg.
Weight / Roll (min.) : 15 kg.
Roll diameter (max.) : 600 mm
Roll width (Standard model) : 1800 mm
Optional Extra : Roll width from 1900 mm to 4000 mm
Packaging can be described as a coordinated system of preparing goods for transport,
warehousing, logistics, sale, and end use. Packaging contains, protects, preserves, transports,
informs, and sells. Packaging surrounds, enhances and protects the goods we buy, from processing
and manufacturing through handling and storage to the final consumer. Importance of Packaging
in Textiles.
Wintry gets orders from within the country as well as outside the country. The methods of packing
and exporting depends on how clients wish it to be. Fabrics are either folded or made into rolls
before being packed.
10.1 - FOLDING MACHINE
SINGLE- AND DOUBLE-FOLD FOLDING - LOOSE TO FOLD
(COMPANY - TOPIWALA)
User: Textile Mill / Weaving Unit / Fabric Warehouses
Application: For Woven Fabric / Grey Fabric / Finish Fabric
Features: Feeding - Loose to Delivery - Fold @ 1 mtr. Can Be Adjusted
Simple Brush Lifting Mechanism Over the Table Easy to Set
Speed: up to 50 mtr./min.
Fabric Guide Bar /Guide Channel /Fan Angle/” V” Board etc. are S. S. Material
Options: Available for Wider Fabric up to 3.6 mtr. Or As per Customer Requirement
10.2 -FABRIC ROLLING WRAPPER MACHINE
Penguin Stretch Wrapping Machine, Model: FABRIC ROLL is an universal machine. It is used for
stretch wrapping the rolls like fabric rolls, denim rolls, carpets, films, paper rolls etc,. It spirally
wraps the long rolls using 500mm width stretch film. Complete moisture proof packing can be
achieved by suitable end caps. Machine can be supplied to wrap rolls up to 6m width.
CAPACITY:
56

70. Material : LLDPE Stretch film
Film width : 250 - 500 mm
Film thickness-Range : 12 - 35 μ
Film thickness-Used : 23 μ
Core diameter : 76 mm Max.
Film diameter : 250 mm
Nett film Weight of 500 mm
width roll : 15 kg / roll 250 mm
width roll : 5 kg / roll
Rubberized roll
Height (above GL) : 350 mm
Speed : 50 m / min.
Max. Stretch : 300 %
Installed power : 1.5 kW
Power supply : 220V, Single Phase, 50 Hz
Standard machine - 3nos. : DC motors & DC drives
Optional extra : AC motors & AC drives
Cloth baling press is designed to bale up to 300kg, with pressing force of up to 200 tons. This
important process in recycling resolves the problem of space and efficiency for most of the
users. The volume reduction is approximately 6:1, this will mean reduced waste storage area
and savings on transportation and labor costs.
This machine mainly focuses on reliability, superior press force, and simple mechanism,
maintenance free and safe functional working environment for the operator.
This type of baling press is classic style, electrical button operation and safety chain lock.
Automatic GradeAutomatic
Voltage440 Volt
BrandShri Chamunda Engineering
Phase3 Phase
MaterialMild Steel
Frequency50-60 Hz
Surface TreatmentPowder Coated
10 .3 FILM DETAILS:
10.4 MACHINE:
10.5 BAILIN PRESS
57

71. 58
fig 10.1 - Folding Machine

72. Chapter-11
LABS

73. All the fabrics that are processed in a factory need to be checked for their quality before they are
sent across for final use. Samples of fabrics from each lot are tested accordingly and noted if they
meet the desired norms of the association or not. Following are diferent tests that are carried out at
different stages of the processing f the fabric:
11.1 TEST FOR GSM:
Two tools are used: a GSM Cutter also called as “round cutter” and a weighing scale.
11.1.1 GSM CUTTER:
·Made of high-quality aluminum pressure die.
·light weighted and deliver highly accurate test results.
·Equipped with heavy duty German cutting blades.
11.1.2 DIGITAL BALANCE:
·Superior shock resistance and overload protection.
·High contrast LCD display.
·Software lock switch and integrated transportation lock.
11.1.3 TESTING PROCEDURE
·A GSM cutter comes with a standardized round cutter equipped with sharp blades.
·Sample fabric is placed on the platform.
·Any crease is removed and cut a circular sample using the cutter.
·Now sample are weighed using digital balance and GSM is determined.
fig 11.1 - GSM testing machine
60

74. 11.2 LAB TEST FOR DESIZING:
11.2.1 FOR STARCH REMOVAL - TEGEWA DROP TEST:
TEGEWA Test is performed after desizing to check removal of starch from fabric.
·Solution: 10 g of Potassium iodide in 100 ml of water.
·The fabric to be tested is tensioned horizontally on a device so that its reverse side doesn’t come
into contact with an underlay.
·Sample fabric is placed in iodine solution for 1 min and result is compared with violet scale.
·<5: incomplete starch removal
7-9: for better print and dye results.
11.3 LAB TEST FOR SCOURING:
·In this test, they measure the water absorbency of fabric by measuring the time taken by a drop of
water to be completely absorbed by the fabric when placed on the fabric surface.
11.4 LAB TEST FOR DYEING AND PRINTING:
11.4.1 COLOR FASTNESS TO RUBBING:
·The test is carried out on a crock-meter and is a particularly important for Pigment printed
material. This test is performed both as wet and dry test.
·The crock meter we saw consists of a rigid flat metallic plate form on which the test sample is
held firmly and an abrading finger which rubs against it under a specified load. The plate form is
fixed over the base of equipment and lies in horizontal plane.
·The test sample is half firmly over an abrasive paper which is pasted on the upper of plate form
with help of two pins holding it at both ends.
The abrading finger has a flat circular rubbing face which is covered with four pieces of white
abradant fabric during test. The abradant fabric pick up colour lost by test sample during rubbing.
It is held over the figure with the help of topered ring. Motion to the finger is given through a
reciprocating arm with runs on two balls bearing to minimize friction and to apply a uniform load
on the finger. The arm is moved by a manually operated crank and connecting link. The
equipment is finished in dark metallic paints and bright chrome painting to give it a corrosion
resistant finish.
Process
·First a sample fabric is mounted on the instrument. Then a piece of undyed cloth is clapped on
the finger of the rubbing device of the instrument.
·The undyed piece is rubbed to 10 times against the sample along a track of 10 cm with the
pressure of 900g on the figure.
·The speed of rubbing is adjusted to 1 stroke/sec. the color transferred to the white fabric is then
assessed by using the Gray scale for staining.
61

75. 11.4.2 COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION:
Perspiration Fastness Check – Incubator
·Perspirometer – to determine color fastness of dyed or printed fabric against perspiration.
·At first 10cm*4cm sample fabric and multi-fibre fabric is taken then fabric is wet for 30 mins in
the acidic or alkaline solution.
·The fabric is withdrawn and any excess liquor are removed.
·Then specimen is placed in the perspiration tester.
·Then composite sample between two glass plate under pressure of 4.5 kg.
·After that placed in an oven at 37±2◦ C temperature for 4 hours and fabric are allowed to dry at
room temperature.
·And finally, evaluation is done by grey scale in a color matching cabinet and rated from 1-5.
11.4.3 COLOR FASTNESS TO WASH:
·Temperature – 60◦ C
·Time – 30 mins
·Detergent used is surf excel, LR grade, AATCC.
·+1 & -3 % is accepted in market for cotton elongation & shrinkage.
·Pigment dyed clothes are cured not washed.
Testing Procedure:
·At first multi-fibre fabric is sewn with the dyed sample.
·Then the sample is placed into the test vessel that contains washing detergent.
·Then the vessel is placed into the machine and the machine is run for 30 mins at temperature 60C.
·After washing, the washed sample is compared with the original untreated sample and any loss in
colour is graded with the reference to the grey scale.
11.4.4 TEST FOR DIMENSIONAL STABILITY:
Front load Washing Machine is used.
·Ballast: Four pieces of size 20 * 20 cm, overlocked together on all four sides or 100% bleached
cotton fabric or 50/50 polyester/cotton plain-woven fabric of mass per unit area 155±5 g/ and of
size 92*92 cm.
·Total load in washing: Sample + Ballast weigh 2± 0.1 kg.
·Detergent: surf excel, LR grade, AATCC standard.
62

76. fig 11.4 Color Fastness to Washing
fig 11.2 - Color Fastness to Rubbing
fig 11.3 - Color Fastness to
Perspiration
fig 11.5 - Detergent for test for
dimensional stability

77. A hand-held controller for improved manual testing, useful when gripping specimens of
variable or irregular size.
Test Wise: Advanced software made simple, for faster, smarter testing. Features include pre-
loaded test parameters, filters and favorites to find standards and export to pdf and excel.
Standards: Over 500 pre-loaded standards and retailer test method, which the user can
customize.
Positioning: Bench standing
Depth – 56.8 cm
Width – 40 cm
Height – 133.9 cm
Weight: 82 kg
Power: single phase, 60 watts, 1.0 A (rating per phase)
Pressure: 7-10 bar, 700-1000 kPas, 100-145 psi
PC minimum specification: OS Windows 8, windows 7, windows 10.
11.5 LAB TEST FOR STRENGTH:
11.5.1 TENSILE STRENGTH TEST:
Tensile test puts a force onto a sample and pulls it until destruction. The force at failure is recorded
and sometimes the amount of stretch known as elongation at this load. Titan Tensile testing
machine is used.
Specifications:
·Test wise – Program (standard are set), ISO, Buyer standard are fixed.
·Tensile Strength – tested according to sample received (1-50 & more).
·Tested both direction warp and weft.
·They mostly use unit pound.
fig 11.6 Tensile Strength Test
64

78. 11.5.2 TEAR STRENGTH TEST:
·Tear Strength – Start from zero level.
·GLM – Gram per Linear Meter.
Working procedure:
·The apparatus consists of a sector shaped pendulum carrying a moving sample clamp & a fixed on
the frame.
·When the pendulum is in the raised to starting position, the sample is transferred between the two
clamps.
·The tear is started by a slit cut in the sample between the clamps.
·The pendulum is then released & the sample is torn as the moving clamp, moving away from the
fixes clamp.
·The pointer attached to the pendulum, which is graduated to read the tearing force directly.
fig 11.7 Tear Strength Test
65

79. fig 11.7 Shade Test
A colour matching box is used for colour matching or where there is need to maintain colour
consistency and it helps in quality control.
The colour matching box is a simulation tool, which is capable of representing certain
situations in order to analyse the colour characteristics of individual samples.
The colour matching box supports 6 possible lighting types: D-65 (Day light), C.W.F (Cool
white fluorescent), U.V.B (Ultraviolet Light), TL-84 (Tube light), F.L (Fluorescence light).
There is a microcomputer to switch between the light sources quickly.
Super timing function to record use time of each light source separately.
11.6 SHADE MATCHING TEST:
Testing required during cold pad batch operation is Shade matching. After washing and drying,
shade is checked in light box.
11.6.1 COLOR MATCHING BOX:
66

80. ·No proper infrastructure
·No proper sanitation facility for the workers
·The temperature inside the factory was more than 50 degree Celsius with high humidity
·No proper ventilation
·No safety -precautions for the workers as well as the machine operators
·No proper lightening conditions.
·No proper cleanliness
·No proper uniform for the workers
ERGONOMICS
“Ergonomics is the scientific discipline concerned with the understanding of interactions among
humans and other elements of a system, and the profession that applies theory, principles, data and
methods to design in order to optimise human well-being and overall system performance.”
The ergonomics, infrastructure & the workplace environment in the factory were so bad. Some
notable drawbacks inside the factory were:
The working hours for the workers should be 8 hours as per the government guidelines and rules
but in this Case it was 12 hours and they were paid just very low. Children below 18 years old
were also working there (Child labour is illegal as per Fair Labour Standard law (FLSL)).
Ergonomics helps to improve the productivity by implementing good workstation and good
environment to the workers and by reducing the risk factors of the workers. all these leads to
producing good quality product with high productivity. Instead of these they try to cut the coast
from the workers by lowering their wages, increasing their work time from 8 hours to 12 hours,
with- out providing proper workstation, infrastructure and poor working conditions of the workers
and they try to produce high quality products at high productivity. Bad ergonomics leading to
workers health problems.
ERGONOMICS

81. Chapter-12
EFFLUENT TREATMENT
PLANT

82. ETP - EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
Hard to treat wastes - The liquor obtained from, color and metal dyeing operations,
Phosphates, preparatory process and dyeing, Non-biodegradable organic materials, and
reluctant are difficult to treat and contain color, metals, phenols, certain surfactants, toxic
organic compounds, and pesticides. the identification and elimination of their sources are the
best possible ways to solve the issue.
High Volume Wastes -Wash water from the preparatory process, dyeing process, mostly every
wet processes containing a high volume of salt, alkali or acid is categorized as High volume
wastes.
Hazardous or Toxic Wastes - In simple words, it is considered as a subgroup to 'hard to treat
wastes. They include volatile organic materials, chlorinated solvents, metals, and non-
biodegradables.
Dispersible Wastes - Batch dumps from finishing mixes, print paste from screenprinting,
solvents from cleansing actions are considered as dispersible wastes.
WINTRY Engineering and Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. is equipped with the state-of-the-art Effluent
Treatment Plant. which is one of their strongest suit in the Textile market. The company motto
believes in achieving Zero - Discharge in the next 2 years. This sounds Ideally impossible, but
getting closer to the same is also considered a great achievement in the field.
Fashion Wash is generally classified into 4 ways
1.
2.
3.
4.
Table 12.1 - List of Effluents from various departments.
68

83. Being completely focused on Wet - processing wintry does have its play in pollution. And the
state-of-the-art Effluent Treatment Plant ensures that no harm is done to the environment.
Table 12.2 - Classification of waste water treatment process
11.1 - PRIMARY TREATMENT
Since the removal of Solid , oil and grease , next will be the remaining suspended solids , The
primary treatment is carried out to reduce the strength of wash liquor for the secondary treatment.
Screening-Screening is carried out to remove Coarse matters like rags, pieces of fabric, fibres, and
lints , since the suspended fibres have to be removed prior to secondary treatment, since it is a
biological treatment.
69

84. Sedimentation - Sedimentation has a great role in removing the suspended matter in an efficient
and economical way. The sedimentation tanks allow the smaller and lighter matters to settle under
gravity. Horizontal flow sedimentation tanks and center feed circular clarifies are the important
equipment at Sedimentation, By mechanical Scrapping, the settled sludge is removed
Equalization - At the sump pit, Effluent flow is collected, and stirred with rotating agitators or by
compressed air. The conical bottom of the sump pit increases the settling of solids
Neutralisation - The pH value of equalised liquor should be neutralised , Dil.Sulphuric acid and
boiler flue gas in CO2 is commonly used for the same. Neautralisation helps the liquor to maintain
a pH of 5 to 9 , so the secondary treatment can be carried out effectively
Chemical coagulation and Mechanical flocculation -
In mechanical flocculation, a gentle stirring is carried out to the wash liquor while it passes
through the first tank. Thus suspended solids coalesce into larger particles and settle out.
Clariflocculator a specialised equipment is also used
chemical coagulants are used,In order to alter the physical state of colloidal and suspended
particles and to facilitate their removal by sedimentation,
It is a controlled process, which results in creating a matter free effluent
11.2 - SECONDARY TREATMENT
A simple sedimentation can’t remove all the BOD, the rest BOD is removed at the secondary
treatment , where the dissolved and the emulsive organic compounds and colouring compounds
present in the wash is removed or minimised as to balance the organic matter. Using bacteria and
other microorganisms, this is achieved. For the digestion of the sludge, anaerobic treatment is
engaged. Depending on the pH, temperature, waste loading , toxic matters, and absence of oxygen
efficiency of the process is secured.
The large stocking tanks or pods having a drop of 3-5 m and are bounded with cement, polythene
or rubber are called Aerated Lagoons. After the primary treatment processes the effluents are
collected in these tanks and ponds to be aerated by mechanical tools, which will take san
approximate time of 2 to 6 days. To brings out the oxidation of the dissolved organic matter, a
muddled sludge is created.
Trickling filters - with the help of a steadily rotating distributer, like a rotary sprinkler wash water
is sprinkled uniformly on the big bed. The air is only allowed to enter at the bottom via the
specially designed filter system.. later a natural draft with a counter current is produced.
70

85. Oxidation ditch : is a literal modification to the standard , activated sludge process. After screening
, the wash water is permitted into the oxidation ditch. With the help of a mechanical rotor. The
newly mixed liquor with sludge solids is aerated in the passage. 12 to 14 hours is the usual
hydraulic retention time. But it is 20 -30 days for solids. For the following treatment cycle , the
sludge found is recycled thoroughly. Sand drying beds are used to dry the surplus sludge without
stench.
Anaerobic digestion : the watery remnants from the primary sedimentation and the humus tank is
termed as, Sludge. A sludge digester is used to conduct slow fermentation or assimilation by
anaerobic bacteria for the fragments of sludge. Where the temperature is maintained at 35oC and
pH at 7-8 for 30 days continuous. CO2, CH4 and a few NH3 are discharged at the climax.
11.3 - TERITIARY TREATMENT
From the inadequate conventional treatments, there needs efficient tertiary Treatment.
Oxidation Technique : Sodium hypochlorite decolonizes the dye much efficiently, than the bunch
of other oxidising agents. Even-though it’s a cheaper process, the absorbable toxic halides formed
can create more mess.
Ozone decomposes into free radicals and oxygen, which later reacts with the colouring agents in
the bath , destructing the dye.
Electrolyte rush and foam separation : by the reduction of cathode capacity of an electrolytic bath
causes the concentrated dye wastes to go under electrolytic precipitation. Although immensely
long contact times are required.
Foam separation is done as an experimental method, where the phenomena of the surface - vital
solutes gather a gas liquid workflow.
The chemicals used for the treatment is way too expensive.
Membrane technologies : Electrodialysis and Reverse osmosis, are the two important examples of
this process.
Reverse osmosis removes the TDS from the waste water. It is also suitable for removing larger
species and ion from the dye solution, with an efficiency of 90%
A major drawback to be considered is the clogging of the membrane by dyes after long usages.
Also high capital cost.
71

86. Elektrolites along with the dyes are used for the dying process. To ensure to have high exhaustion
of the dye neutral electrolyte like NaCl is used. NaCl solution of concentration at the range of 25
to 30 gram per litre is used for cotton dyeing, at deep tone. And to create a light tone 15 gram per
litre is used. There will be exceptions where 50 gram per litre is also used.
The excursion stage ulcerative sufficient quality of salt.
To reuse the treated effluent reverse osmosis is conducted for removing high salt concentrations.
The increase in hydrolysed dye affinity due to the presence of electrolytes in the water make it so
much difficult to extract.
By impressing and electrical potential across the water this old salt it can be removed in
electrodialysis. Which also result in the alienation of cations and anions to the respective
electrodes via permeable membranes.
Prior to electrodialysis trace organics suspended solids turbidity is removed, to avoid founding.
Electrochemical processes : no need of additional chemical, since they have lower temperature
requirements , then those have other electrochemical treatments.
This also prevents the production offside products which are in no need.
If the wastewater contains suspended or colloidal solids they may affect the electrochemical
reaction. So so these materials need to be sufficiently removed before electrochemical oxidation
Ion exchange method: to remove the undesirable anions and cations from the waste wash. This
method is used. This include the passage of waste watch through the channels of ion-exchange
where some undesirable cations or anions off the waste wash exchange for me
sodium or hydrogen ions of the resins.
Synthetic polymer material containing iron group such as sulphonyl quaternary ammonium group
Are used as ion exchange resins.
Photocatalytic degradation ; depending upon their molecular structure advance method to
decolourised can be used. A photoactive catalyst illuminates with UV light generate high reactive
radical which can decompose organic compounds.
Adsorption ; at the interface between two immiscible phases exchange of materials take place
absorption do have the considerable potential for the removal of colour.
72

87. fig 12.1 - ETP-Effluent treatment plant
fig 12.2 - Reverse Osmosis

88. CONCLUSION
The objective of our textile internship at Wintry Engineering & Chemicals Pvt. Ltd. was to
understand the concept and experience everything in practical, that we have learned in theory in
college in the past two years both technical as well as for commercial purposes.
Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We further
dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to subsequent stages
of manufacturing. We were to learn about the various stages in the entire process of textile
manufacturing, the importance of each of these stages, the machinery features, machine and
material process parameters available in detail in the areas as mentioned below.
We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and understand during our
internship:
Grey Section
Pre-Treatment Section
Dyeing and printing Section
Finishing Section
Quality Assurance Section
Packaging Section
74

89. REFERENCE
https://www.indiamart.com/?
gclid=CjwKCAjwruSHBhAtEiwA_qCpprz9EKDfNGSxyHf9X2rA0Jjp3bAZi9GkKozH-
DKylsKFol8Ed5M6XRoCyJUQAvD_BwE
http://www.dstopiwala.com/
https://www.texfabindia.com/
https://nptel.ac.in/
zaubacorp.com
scribd.com
vendax.com
tradeindia.com
devrekha.com
75