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An Investigation on the Progressive Change in Filament
Characteristics from Outer to Inner Layers of Mulberry
and Tasar Cocoons
Subrata Das,1
Anindya Ghosh2
1
Central Silk Technological Research Institute, Bangalore, Karnataka 560 068, India
2
Department of Textile Technology, Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Berhampore,
West Bengal 742 101, India
Received 16 December 2008; accepted 22 March 2009
DOI 10.1002/app.32104
Published online 29 March 2010 in Wiley InterScience (www.interscience.wiley.com).
ABSTRACT: The physical properties and residual sericin
content of the silk filament were evaluated in relation to
its position in different layers of the cocoons correspond-
ing to Daba (Antheraea mylitta), oak tasar (Antheraea proy-
lei), and bivoltine mulberry (Bombyx mori) varieties. A
decrease in filament linear density from the outer to the
innermost layers was observed in all the varieties.
Although the filament tenacity was found to increase in
bivoltine mulberry cocoons from the outer to the inner
layers, no such specific trend was observed for Daba
cocoons. For oak tasar cocoons, it showed a marginal rise.
A similar trend was observed for filament initial modulus
also. The breaking extension of filament was constant for
Daba cocoons, decreased for oak tasar cocoons and
showed a rise followed by a fall for bivoltine mulberry
cocoons from the first to the last layers. The residual seri-
cin decreased marginally from the outer to the inner layer
in the case of tasar cocoons. However, for mulberry
cocoons it decreased rapidly initially up to the fourth layer
and thereafter showed no change. VC 2010 Wiley Periodicals,
Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 117: 1319–1324, 2010
Key words: Antheraea mylitta; Antheraea proylei; Bombyx
mori; layer; sericin; bivoltine
INTRODUCTION
As nonmulberry tasar silks in India, Daba and oak
are two widely used ones which are categorized as
tropical and temperate variants, respectively
depending on the climate of cultivation. Genetically
silkworm of Daba is a pure race under the species of
Antheraea mylitta D., whereas oak silkworm (Anther-
aea proylei J.) is an interspecies breed of Antheraea
roylei and Antheraea pernyi. The cultivated bivoltine
mulberry silkworm is a species of well known
Bombyx mori L. In a natural product like silk, inher-
ent variations manifest layerwise in cocoon and any
definite mode of variation in property down the co-
coon layers may show up objectionable fabric pat-
terns either from visual or textural standpoint. Phys-
ical properties of A. mylitta D.,1
A. proylei J.,2
A.
yamamai,3
and B. mori L.4
of Japanese, Chinese, and
Thai local varieties were studied with respect to the
thread size, position of layers, spinning period, etc.
and even taking into account the gender of the silk-
worm. However, the reported literatures show evi-
dence of very limited information on the silk fila-
ment characteristics that exists in different cocoon
layers.
The aim of the present investigation is to study
the layerwise progressive change in the filament
characteristics in Daba, oak tasar, and bivoltine mul-
berry cocoons available from various regions of
India.
MATERIALS AND METHODS
Sufficient quantities of daba, oak tasar, and bivoltine
mulberry cocoons were collected from different pla-
ces of India like Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, and
Karnataka.
The stifled daba and oak tasar cocoons were
cooked in a solution of an organic amine for 50 min
and 30 min, respectively, at 80
C.5
The bivoltine
mulberry cocoons were cooked as per the method
described elsewhere.6
The cocoons were reeled
slowly with utmost care. While reeling, successive
reeled lengths of 120 yards were cut and numbered
sequentially so as to identify the location of small
hanks in the cocoon during subsequent testing. The
numbers given were termed as layers. At least 30
samples corresponding to each layer were collected
from different cocoons for each variety.
Each layer representing 120 yards of filament was
weighed on an electronic balance to measure the
Correspondence to: S. Das (subratactl@gmail.com).
JournalofAppliedPolymerScience,Vol.117,1319–1324(2010)
VC 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.
filament fineness. To determine the average value of
filament fineness and its variation, 30 readings were
taken from each specimen.
An Instron tensile tester (model 4301) was used to
study the tenacity, breaking elongation, and modu-
lus of the filaments corresponding to various layers.
The samples were conditioned at 65% RH and 25
C
for 24 h before the tensile testing. The filaments
were subjected to tensile testing at a gauge length of
5 cm and crosshead speed of 5 cm/min. The test
specimen was mounted between the jaws at a pre-
tension level of 0.05 cN/dtex. During testing, the
samples which showed jaw breaks (tendency to
break close to the jaws) were excluded. For each set
of experiment, 50 tests were conducted.
To determine the residual sericin content of differ-
ent layers, 30 leas of filament from different cocoons
representing a particular layer were first weighed on
an electronic balance. The leas were subsequently
degummed in a solution of 25% Marseilles soap for
90 min at boil keeping the material: liquor ratio of
1 : 50. The residual sericin content of layers was cal-
culated on the basis of the difference in conditioned
weight before and after degumming to the initial
weight expressed as percentage.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
The progressive change in filament fineness, break-
ing load, tenacity, breaking extension, modulus and
residual sericin with respect to the position of fila-
ments in different cocoons have been depicted in
Figures 1–18. It is apparent from Figures 1–3 that the
filament becomes continually finer from the outer to
Figure 2 Change in filament size with layers for oak
tasar cocoons.
Figure 1 Change in filament size with layers for daba
cocoons.
Figure 3 Change in filament size with layers for bivoltine
mulberry cocoons.
Figure 4 Change in breaking load with layers for daba
cocoons.
1320 DAS AND GHOSH
Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
the inner layer for all varieties of cocoons. This can
be ascribed to the gradual decrease in the concentra-
tion of aqueous silk as the spinning process pro-
gresses from an initial polymer solution of about
30 wt % to about 15 wt %, as observed by Iizuka.4
As an evidence, the percentage reduction of filament
linear density from outer to the innermost layers are
47%, 38%, and 71% for daba, oak tasar, and bivoltine
mulberry cocoons, respectively.
The breaking load of filament shows a similar
trend as that of filament denier with successive
layers. This may be attributed to the reduction in the
filament fineness down the layers (Figs. 4–6). Fur-
thermore, the filament tenacity from outer to inner
layer shows a rising trend in the case of bivoltine
mulberry cocoon and a marginal rise for oak tasar
cocoons while no such specific trend was observed
Figure 5 Change in breaking load with layers for oak tasar
cocoons.
Figure 6 Change in breaking load with layers for bivol-
tine mulberry cocoons.
Figure 7 Change in tenacity with layers for daba cocoons.
Figure 8 Change in tenacity with layers for oak tasar
cocoons.
Figure 9 Change in tenacity with layers for bivoltine
mulberry cocoons.
FILAMENT CHARACTERISTICS OF COCOONS 1321
Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
for daba cocoons (Figs. 7–9). The increasing trend of
filament tenacity for bivoltine mulberry cocoon in
the direction of inner layers can be ascribed to the
slow drop in breaking load compared to the drop in
fineness, which is associated with lower concentra-
tion of aqueous silk during spinning. In the case of
daba and oak tasar varieties, the influence of low
spinning speed as postulated by Tsubouchi et al.3
may be compensating the effect of reduction in fila-
ment linear density as postulated by Iizuka et al.,1,2
showing no or a marginal change in tenacity.
It is noted from Figures 10–12 that the breaking
extension shows practically no change for daba tasar
filament with the layers, however, it diminishes in
the inner layers for oak tasar. In case of mulberry
cocoons, it shows an initial rise followed by a fall in
the more interior layers. The decreasing trend of fila-
ment breaking extension at the interior layers can be
ascribed to the more ordered filament structure at
this region than that of outer layers, as suggested by
Iizuka et al.7
It is evident from Figures 13–15 that the filament
modulus follows the trend as same as filament te-
nacity and therefore the result may be advocated to
the similar lines as discussed in the preceding
paragraph.
A high variation of filament tenacity, breaking
extension, and modulus is observed for all cocoons.
For instance, the CV% of filament tenacity, breaking
extension, and modulus are ranging from 10% to
23%, 20% to 44.5%, and 15% to 41%, respectively.
Figure 10 Change in breaking extension with layers for
daba cocoons.
Figure 11 Change in breaking extension with layers for
oak tasar cocoons.
Figure 12 Change in breaking extension with layers for
bivoltine mulberry cocoons.
Figure 13 Change in initial modulus with layers for daba
cocoons.
1322 DAS AND GHOSH
Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
Silk being a natural product shows obvious inherent
variation in its mechanical properties.
The residual sericin content decreases marginally
for daba and oak tasar cocoons, however, for mul-
berry cocoons it rapidly decreases up to the fourth
layer starting from the outer layer and afterward
remains unchanged (Figs. 16–18). This can be eluci-
dated by the following lines. To protect itself from
the unfavorable environmental conditions, the insect
may deliver more protein to make the outer layer of
the cocoon shell tough. In case of bivoltine mulberry
cocoons, the present cooking method6
does not
remove an appreciable quantity of sericin. So, a pro-
gressive reduction in the residual sericin content
from the outer to the fourth layer is a natural charac-
teristic of sericin distribution in the case of bivoltine
mulberry cocoons. Perhaps, Daba, and oak tasar
insects also behave in a similar fashion. However,
the treatment used for daba and oak tasar cocoons
with organic amine for cooking is vigorous in na-
ture. As a result, the outer part of the cocoon shell
gets more affected than the inner part. Hence the re-
moval of sericin becomes disproportionate for differ-
ent layers. More sericin is removed from the outer
layers than the interiors, showing a marginal reduc-
tion in residual sericin from outer to inner layers.
CONCLUSIONS
The change in characteristics from outer to the inner
layer has been investigated for different varieties of
silk cocoons. The filament linear densities for all
varieties of cocoons decrease from the outer to the
Figure 14 Change in initial modulus with layers for oak
tasar cocoons.
Figure 15 Change in initial modulus with layers for
bivoltine mulberry cocoons.
Figure 16 Change in residual sericin with layers for daba
cocoons.
Figure 17 Change in residual sericin with layers for oak
tasar cocoons.
FILAMENT CHARACTERISTICS OF COCOONS 1323
Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
inner layer. The tenacity and initial modulus remain
constant for daba and rises marginally for oak tasar
but shows a definite increasing trend for bivoltine
mulberry cocoons. The breaking extension remains
constant for daba, decreases for oak tasar, but shows
an initial rise followed by a fall for mulberry
cocoons. Residual sericin shows a tendency to
decrease up to the fourth layer from the outermost
layer for bivoltine mulberry cocoons and thereafter
it remains unchanged. Daba and oak tasar cocoons
show a marginal decrease from the outer to the
inner layer.
References
1. Iizuka, E.; Okachi, Y.; Shimizu, M.; Fukuda, A.; Hashizume, M.
Indian J Sericult 1993, 32, 175.
2. Iizuka, E.; Kawano, R.; Kitani, Y.; Shimizu, M.; Fukuda, A.
Indian J Sericult 1993, 32, 1.
3. Tsubouchi, K. K.; Imai, T.; Sudo, M. Proceedings of the XVIII
International Congress of Entomology, Vancouver, Canada,
1988, pp 119.
4. Iizuka, E. Chemical Processing of Silk; Gulrajani, M. L., Ed.;
Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technol-
ogy: India, 1993, p 27.
5. Das, S.; Ghosh, A. J Nat Fibers 2007, 4, 1.
6. Sonwalkar, T. N. Sericologia 1985, 25, 183.
7. Iizuka, E.; Okachi, Y.; Ohbayashi, S.; Fukuda, A.; Shimizu, M.
Indian J Sericult 1993, 32, 27.
Figure 18 Change in residual sericin with layers for
bivoltine mulberry cocoons.
1324 DAS AND GHOSH
Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app

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Das-Ghosh- JAPS[19.05.2010]

  • 1. An Investigation on the Progressive Change in Filament Characteristics from Outer to Inner Layers of Mulberry and Tasar Cocoons Subrata Das,1 Anindya Ghosh2 1 Central Silk Technological Research Institute, Bangalore, Karnataka 560 068, India 2 Department of Textile Technology, Government College of Engineering and Textile Technology, Berhampore, West Bengal 742 101, India Received 16 December 2008; accepted 22 March 2009 DOI 10.1002/app.32104 Published online 29 March 2010 in Wiley InterScience (www.interscience.wiley.com). ABSTRACT: The physical properties and residual sericin content of the silk filament were evaluated in relation to its position in different layers of the cocoons correspond- ing to Daba (Antheraea mylitta), oak tasar (Antheraea proy- lei), and bivoltine mulberry (Bombyx mori) varieties. A decrease in filament linear density from the outer to the innermost layers was observed in all the varieties. Although the filament tenacity was found to increase in bivoltine mulberry cocoons from the outer to the inner layers, no such specific trend was observed for Daba cocoons. For oak tasar cocoons, it showed a marginal rise. A similar trend was observed for filament initial modulus also. The breaking extension of filament was constant for Daba cocoons, decreased for oak tasar cocoons and showed a rise followed by a fall for bivoltine mulberry cocoons from the first to the last layers. The residual seri- cin decreased marginally from the outer to the inner layer in the case of tasar cocoons. However, for mulberry cocoons it decreased rapidly initially up to the fourth layer and thereafter showed no change. VC 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 117: 1319–1324, 2010 Key words: Antheraea mylitta; Antheraea proylei; Bombyx mori; layer; sericin; bivoltine INTRODUCTION As nonmulberry tasar silks in India, Daba and oak are two widely used ones which are categorized as tropical and temperate variants, respectively depending on the climate of cultivation. Genetically silkworm of Daba is a pure race under the species of Antheraea mylitta D., whereas oak silkworm (Anther- aea proylei J.) is an interspecies breed of Antheraea roylei and Antheraea pernyi. The cultivated bivoltine mulberry silkworm is a species of well known Bombyx mori L. In a natural product like silk, inher- ent variations manifest layerwise in cocoon and any definite mode of variation in property down the co- coon layers may show up objectionable fabric pat- terns either from visual or textural standpoint. Phys- ical properties of A. mylitta D.,1 A. proylei J.,2 A. yamamai,3 and B. mori L.4 of Japanese, Chinese, and Thai local varieties were studied with respect to the thread size, position of layers, spinning period, etc. and even taking into account the gender of the silk- worm. However, the reported literatures show evi- dence of very limited information on the silk fila- ment characteristics that exists in different cocoon layers. The aim of the present investigation is to study the layerwise progressive change in the filament characteristics in Daba, oak tasar, and bivoltine mul- berry cocoons available from various regions of India. MATERIALS AND METHODS Sufficient quantities of daba, oak tasar, and bivoltine mulberry cocoons were collected from different pla- ces of India like Bihar, Uttar Pradesh, and Karnataka. The stifled daba and oak tasar cocoons were cooked in a solution of an organic amine for 50 min and 30 min, respectively, at 80 C.5 The bivoltine mulberry cocoons were cooked as per the method described elsewhere.6 The cocoons were reeled slowly with utmost care. While reeling, successive reeled lengths of 120 yards were cut and numbered sequentially so as to identify the location of small hanks in the cocoon during subsequent testing. The numbers given were termed as layers. At least 30 samples corresponding to each layer were collected from different cocoons for each variety. Each layer representing 120 yards of filament was weighed on an electronic balance to measure the Correspondence to: S. Das (subratactl@gmail.com). JournalofAppliedPolymerScience,Vol.117,1319–1324(2010) VC 2010 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.
  • 2. filament fineness. To determine the average value of filament fineness and its variation, 30 readings were taken from each specimen. An Instron tensile tester (model 4301) was used to study the tenacity, breaking elongation, and modu- lus of the filaments corresponding to various layers. The samples were conditioned at 65% RH and 25 C for 24 h before the tensile testing. The filaments were subjected to tensile testing at a gauge length of 5 cm and crosshead speed of 5 cm/min. The test specimen was mounted between the jaws at a pre- tension level of 0.05 cN/dtex. During testing, the samples which showed jaw breaks (tendency to break close to the jaws) were excluded. For each set of experiment, 50 tests were conducted. To determine the residual sericin content of differ- ent layers, 30 leas of filament from different cocoons representing a particular layer were first weighed on an electronic balance. The leas were subsequently degummed in a solution of 25% Marseilles soap for 90 min at boil keeping the material: liquor ratio of 1 : 50. The residual sericin content of layers was cal- culated on the basis of the difference in conditioned weight before and after degumming to the initial weight expressed as percentage. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION The progressive change in filament fineness, break- ing load, tenacity, breaking extension, modulus and residual sericin with respect to the position of fila- ments in different cocoons have been depicted in Figures 1–18. It is apparent from Figures 1–3 that the filament becomes continually finer from the outer to Figure 2 Change in filament size with layers for oak tasar cocoons. Figure 1 Change in filament size with layers for daba cocoons. Figure 3 Change in filament size with layers for bivoltine mulberry cocoons. Figure 4 Change in breaking load with layers for daba cocoons. 1320 DAS AND GHOSH Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
  • 3. the inner layer for all varieties of cocoons. This can be ascribed to the gradual decrease in the concentra- tion of aqueous silk as the spinning process pro- gresses from an initial polymer solution of about 30 wt % to about 15 wt %, as observed by Iizuka.4 As an evidence, the percentage reduction of filament linear density from outer to the innermost layers are 47%, 38%, and 71% for daba, oak tasar, and bivoltine mulberry cocoons, respectively. The breaking load of filament shows a similar trend as that of filament denier with successive layers. This may be attributed to the reduction in the filament fineness down the layers (Figs. 4–6). Fur- thermore, the filament tenacity from outer to inner layer shows a rising trend in the case of bivoltine mulberry cocoon and a marginal rise for oak tasar cocoons while no such specific trend was observed Figure 5 Change in breaking load with layers for oak tasar cocoons. Figure 6 Change in breaking load with layers for bivol- tine mulberry cocoons. Figure 7 Change in tenacity with layers for daba cocoons. Figure 8 Change in tenacity with layers for oak tasar cocoons. Figure 9 Change in tenacity with layers for bivoltine mulberry cocoons. FILAMENT CHARACTERISTICS OF COCOONS 1321 Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
  • 4. for daba cocoons (Figs. 7–9). The increasing trend of filament tenacity for bivoltine mulberry cocoon in the direction of inner layers can be ascribed to the slow drop in breaking load compared to the drop in fineness, which is associated with lower concentra- tion of aqueous silk during spinning. In the case of daba and oak tasar varieties, the influence of low spinning speed as postulated by Tsubouchi et al.3 may be compensating the effect of reduction in fila- ment linear density as postulated by Iizuka et al.,1,2 showing no or a marginal change in tenacity. It is noted from Figures 10–12 that the breaking extension shows practically no change for daba tasar filament with the layers, however, it diminishes in the inner layers for oak tasar. In case of mulberry cocoons, it shows an initial rise followed by a fall in the more interior layers. The decreasing trend of fila- ment breaking extension at the interior layers can be ascribed to the more ordered filament structure at this region than that of outer layers, as suggested by Iizuka et al.7 It is evident from Figures 13–15 that the filament modulus follows the trend as same as filament te- nacity and therefore the result may be advocated to the similar lines as discussed in the preceding paragraph. A high variation of filament tenacity, breaking extension, and modulus is observed for all cocoons. For instance, the CV% of filament tenacity, breaking extension, and modulus are ranging from 10% to 23%, 20% to 44.5%, and 15% to 41%, respectively. Figure 10 Change in breaking extension with layers for daba cocoons. Figure 11 Change in breaking extension with layers for oak tasar cocoons. Figure 12 Change in breaking extension with layers for bivoltine mulberry cocoons. Figure 13 Change in initial modulus with layers for daba cocoons. 1322 DAS AND GHOSH Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
  • 5. Silk being a natural product shows obvious inherent variation in its mechanical properties. The residual sericin content decreases marginally for daba and oak tasar cocoons, however, for mul- berry cocoons it rapidly decreases up to the fourth layer starting from the outer layer and afterward remains unchanged (Figs. 16–18). This can be eluci- dated by the following lines. To protect itself from the unfavorable environmental conditions, the insect may deliver more protein to make the outer layer of the cocoon shell tough. In case of bivoltine mulberry cocoons, the present cooking method6 does not remove an appreciable quantity of sericin. So, a pro- gressive reduction in the residual sericin content from the outer to the fourth layer is a natural charac- teristic of sericin distribution in the case of bivoltine mulberry cocoons. Perhaps, Daba, and oak tasar insects also behave in a similar fashion. However, the treatment used for daba and oak tasar cocoons with organic amine for cooking is vigorous in na- ture. As a result, the outer part of the cocoon shell gets more affected than the inner part. Hence the re- moval of sericin becomes disproportionate for differ- ent layers. More sericin is removed from the outer layers than the interiors, showing a marginal reduc- tion in residual sericin from outer to inner layers. CONCLUSIONS The change in characteristics from outer to the inner layer has been investigated for different varieties of silk cocoons. The filament linear densities for all varieties of cocoons decrease from the outer to the Figure 14 Change in initial modulus with layers for oak tasar cocoons. Figure 15 Change in initial modulus with layers for bivoltine mulberry cocoons. Figure 16 Change in residual sericin with layers for daba cocoons. Figure 17 Change in residual sericin with layers for oak tasar cocoons. FILAMENT CHARACTERISTICS OF COCOONS 1323 Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app
  • 6. inner layer. The tenacity and initial modulus remain constant for daba and rises marginally for oak tasar but shows a definite increasing trend for bivoltine mulberry cocoons. The breaking extension remains constant for daba, decreases for oak tasar, but shows an initial rise followed by a fall for mulberry cocoons. Residual sericin shows a tendency to decrease up to the fourth layer from the outermost layer for bivoltine mulberry cocoons and thereafter it remains unchanged. Daba and oak tasar cocoons show a marginal decrease from the outer to the inner layer. References 1. Iizuka, E.; Okachi, Y.; Shimizu, M.; Fukuda, A.; Hashizume, M. Indian J Sericult 1993, 32, 175. 2. Iizuka, E.; Kawano, R.; Kitani, Y.; Shimizu, M.; Fukuda, A. Indian J Sericult 1993, 32, 1. 3. Tsubouchi, K. K.; Imai, T.; Sudo, M. Proceedings of the XVIII International Congress of Entomology, Vancouver, Canada, 1988, pp 119. 4. Iizuka, E. Chemical Processing of Silk; Gulrajani, M. L., Ed.; Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technol- ogy: India, 1993, p 27. 5. Das, S.; Ghosh, A. J Nat Fibers 2007, 4, 1. 6. Sonwalkar, T. N. Sericologia 1985, 25, 183. 7. Iizuka, E.; Okachi, Y.; Ohbayashi, S.; Fukuda, A.; Shimizu, M. Indian J Sericult 1993, 32, 27. Figure 18 Change in residual sericin with layers for bivoltine mulberry cocoons. 1324 DAS AND GHOSH Journal of Applied Polymer Science DOI 10.1002/app