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By
Dr. Ruchi Kholiya
&
Dr. Pushpa Maurya
India has a rich and varied textile heritage, where each region has
its own unique native costume and traditional attire.
Costume like architecture, is one of the most visible signs of
a civilization. What a person wears is often indicative of his or her
personal and social identity, marital status, occupation and
sometimes-even religion.
Indian clothing is popular for its colorfulness and grace.
Though the majority of Indian women and men wear traditional
costumes, the urban population residing in cities can be found in
more conventional western clothing.
2
The ‘Deep South’ of India consists
geographically of the four main states
between Maharasthra and the tip of the
continent.
Andhra Pradesh
Kerala
Karnataka
Tamil Nadu
3
ANDHRA PRADESH
TEXTILES
Pochampalli Sarees
 Originally the tie and dye sarees are produced in two colours, red and
black only.
 Recently new technique had been evolved where several colours are
brought into the colour schemes.
Gadwal Sarees
 Gadwal cotton sarees are noted for their heavy zari work, pallav and
borders.
 This saree shows on either side two different colours produced during
the loom process.
 Warp and weft in the body are in cotton , Pallav and borders are in silk.
4
5
6
Narayenpett Sarees:
 Hyderabad is famous for its silk sarees with gorgeous
pallavs in dazzling colours, known as Narayenpett sarees.
 These have silk warp and silk weft. The body is of dark
colour and they have light colour check or vice versa.
These are worn on festive occasion.
7
Armoor Silk Sarees
 Silk sarees with extra weft buttis of a star or a
single flower on the body and gold patta border.
 The heavy gold pallu had gold thread is the weft
and extra weft patterns woven with silver
thread in the centre.
 Borders on four sides were woven in extra weft
with silk yarn.
8
Siddipett Sarees
The saree is woven on a fly shuttle loom. Each saree has a
colourful pallav.
Ikat Cloth
Ikat weaving in Andhra is known as “ Chitka”.
Square double clothes are produced which are called Telia
Rumals or Aisa Rumals.
Telia Rumals with Ikat patterns in maroon, white and black
were traditionally worn by the men in Andhra.
It had multiple uses being worn as lungi, as a turban, as well as
scarf to be thrown on shoulder.
9
10
Detail of single-ikat silk sari probably
from Pochampalli,Andhra Pradesh
‘Telia rumal’ double-ikat
cloths from Puttapaka
village, near Hyderabad,
Andhra Pradesh
11
Single and double-ikat sari in the Orissan style
but woven in Masulipatnam, Andhra Pradesh
Kalamkari
Kalamkari means work with pen or Kalam. Dyes, mordants and resists
are applied with Kalam.
Kalamkari tradition in Andhra has a strong tradition of temple cloths
used as a part of temple ritual relating the episodes from the Ramayana
and Mahabharata.
These cloths are also used for decorating rathas or chariots.
The basic dye used by the Kalamkari craftsman is an iron liquor
preparation known as kaseem.
12
13
Contemporary bedcover,
decorated with ‘kalam’
work and printing, from
Masulipatnam, Andhra
Pradesh
14
Drawing out a design with a
kalam pen,in
Kalahasti,Andhra Pradesh
Kalamkai cloth
depicting a scene
from the
Mahabharata
epic.
Himroo/ Himru
An inferior type of Indian brocade is the
Himroo a specialty of Hyderabad and
Aurangabad, in which both silk and cotton
yarn is used to produce variegated designs,
woven on the principle of extra weft figuring.
15
Mashroo/ Mashru
Mashroo is also an intricately woven fabric with exquisite
design and weaves and was appreciated by Kings and
nobles.
It was used by Muslim community.
Carpets and Druggets
Though they now have a strong local flavour, their designs
are still of Persian.
Carpets were also known as Deccan Rugs.
16
Cotton Durrie Weaving
Horizontal looms are required for making sharrangis, the local
name for durries and light durries of second and 3rd quality.
First quality artistic cotton durries are made on vertical looms.
Crotchet laces
The articles produced include placements, centre pieces, spreads
and lace by the yard.
Banjara Embriodery
Banjara embroidery is noted for its lively decoration.
Gaily coloured fabric and embellished with mirrors, glass beads,
coins, cowries shells, beads, cotton and woolen tassels.
17
ANDHRA PRADESH
COSTUME
Female costume
Lower Garments-
Cira : Simple saree
Usually it is worn with pleats in front. The portion of pleats
tucked in the naval is denoted by the term kucellu.
There are several ways of draping the upper body. One is to
draw the free end of the material from the right thigh across
the bosom and over the left shoulder corner which is tucked
in at the right side of the waist thus draping the back.
Another ways is to reverse the direction
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19
Godakattu: Mode of wearing saree among non
Brahman group is called Godakattu. They wear
saree in lungi manner in which there are no front
pleats.
Mattagochi: Mode of wearing saree among
some labouring classes is Mattagochi.
Lahenga: Unmarried girls wear lahenga as
lower garment.
Upper Garments-
Ravikalu or Ravikkai: Bodice use to support
the bust is called Ravikalu or Ravikkai.
Mulmuska: It is dupatta worn by the bride at
time of marriage.
Grown-up girls wear ravika with a long skirt
pleated all round and tied at once end as a
lower garment.
Over the skirt they wear pamita (half-sari).
Muslim women generally wear the same dress
as the Hindu women, but some wear salwar
and kameez.
20
Jewellery
 Chempa pinlu: Hair pins of gold
 Bhaskam: Mahatikka
 Chamanti Panu: Plait of chrysanthemum flowers.
 Mukku Padaka: Nose ring
 Nath: Worn in middle portion of nose.
 Ghogrichotla: A heavy silver plated ear-pendant attached to a
band of silver chains which decorate either side of the parted
hair.
 Dudu Butta: Earrings with bells.
 Lalakulu: Earrings without bells.
21
 Pusthila Thadu ( Mangalsutra): Gold chain
with two circular locquates and 2 pins.
 Chandrahar: Necklace
 Aravanki: Bajuband (Armlet)
 Vaddla Nam: Kamarband (Waist band)
 Gajulu: bangles
 Ungram: Finger ring
 Pattalu: Pajeb/ Payal ( Anklet)
 Kadiyalu: Silver, tubular anklets, worn by old
married ladies.
 Matellu: Toe ring
 Telugu Mendicants sue wrist threads of human
hair for both bride and groom.
22
Male Costume
Lower Garments-
Pancha: Dhoti
This mode of wearing dhoti like a lungi is called goodakattu.
Panchakattu or gochipancha is the most common mode of wearing
dhoti. The middle portion of the right side is made longer than that of
the left side. The left portion is drawn up between the legs and
tucked in the waist at the back.
The hind tucking is called gochi and the front pleats are called
kuchchelu. This mode is used for formal and religious occasions.
Dhoti is usually with red or green thin borderline made up of cotton
fibre.
Lagu: Pants of young boys
23
24
The Dhoti, known locally as
"Mundu," "Veshti," "Pancha" or
"Panche," is a traditional male
clothing of south India. A 5-yard-
long unstitched cloth is draped
double-folded and knotted at the
waist.
Upper Garments
Lachi or Chokka: It is the shirt or kurta
Paibatta: It is a scarf which is the much more general attire and is
almost an invariable component of the ensemble of the higher
classes. It is prescribed item of the dress on ceremonial or religious
occasions.
Talapaga or Talepaga: The freshly folded turban which is very
commonly white in colour, but all over Andhra preferred moving
about bare headed.
Pagadi: The lower classes use a smaller piece of cloth to wind round
the head to cover it against sun.
Paypancha: it is a shash which they put on their shoulder.
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Jewellery
 Ungam: Finger ring made of gold.
 Chain: Made of gold.
 Janjum: It is the Janew they wear at the time of
marriage and this time it is made of gold.
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27
KERALA
TEXTILES
Cotton textile of Kerala include Batik and screen
printed lungis. Kerala has recently started weaving
sarees. Traditionally it wore lungis for men and women.
Kerakudi sarees
These sarees are famous with bright Pallavs and
borders and woven with silk warp and silk weft.
Karakal sarees
These are made up of unbleached or off white cotton
with rich broad gold borders and pallavs.
28
Kerakudi saree
Balrampuram sarees
Blarampuram near Trivandram have fine texture with silk
warp and silk weft having temple designs, motifs and are
worn on festive occasions. At times zari buttis are also used.
Kusaru zari sarees
Kerala Kusaru zari sarees are prized by women all over
India for their fineness count and texture and gold borders.
Cheese cloth
Handloom cotton crepe is popularly known as cheese cloth
and is widely used for readymade garments.
29
Embroidery and lacework
Syrian embroidery was the first to find its way into
Kerala. In many parts of Kerala, embroidery and lace
work is an important and leisure time occupation for
women.
Articles such a bed spreads, table-linen, cushion-
covers and sofa covers are commonly made.
Other minor crafts of Kerala are cotton rag dolls
and cotton caps making.
30
KERALA
COSTUME
Female costume (Lower garments)-
Tuni: Small loin cloth of white colour worn as under garment.
Onnaramundu: An undergarment worn by the most women of Hindu
community.
Vetticoat: Long under garment worn during work time.
Sari: Full length saree reaching upto heel.
Dhoti: Lower garment reaching upto the knee. This is of cotton and white in
colour.
Mund Neryath: Old ladies used to wear set which is called Mund Neryath. It
includes Munda (dhoti which is light coloured like cream or pink with or without
borders), half-saree (Dupatta like) and coloured blouse which may be matching or
not to the colour of saree.
Pavada: Long skirt reaching upto toes which the girls wear with blouse.
Manthrakodi: Cream coloured veil saree to cover body from head to toes at the
time of marriage.
 In all cases the entire length of the saree is wrapped around the waist with
numerous pleats, like a skirt and nothing is left for draping the torso.
 In modern times most ladies have adopted the all India style of saree and choli.31
A south Indian woman
wearing a traditional
kerala saree or Set-Saree
32
Woman with coloured
"veshti" sari from
Kerala
Upper Garments-
Blouse: It is a half sleeved garment. The opening is full in front with ‘V’ or
round necklines. The length is upto naval.
Chatta: This is a full sleeved blouse.
Body: Garment blouse tied with a knot a round waist.
Urap: Frock worn by girls.
Davani: Half saree use by the girls over the long skirt.
Makkana: This is a coloured cloth used to cover the head.
In the some communities like palla, women wear only saree which is called
chela. Deep red, yellow and green are favourite colours of the saree. The torso
is kept bare.
The Muslim women’s dress consists of white or coloured mundu,full or half-
sleeved jacket with tight neck and a scarf thrown over the head and faling
over the shoulders.
Modern styles are slowly replacing the traditional ones.A large number of
women wear half-sari in combination with mundu and blouse.
33
Footwear
They wear plastic footwear.
Jewellery
 Nettipattom: is forehead ornament.
 Chadappilla: Ornament for hair plait down the back.
 Kondappeo: Circular ornament for back of head.
 Kolusuvala: Payal/ pajeb
 Chandrapalakka: Necklace
 Poothali: Necklace
 Udyanam: Waist ornament
 Navpatra: 9 or 10 coin necklace
 Chitturu: Necklace.
 Channa viras: Kamarband
 Minchi: Ring for second toe
 Vanki: Bangles for upper arm.
34
Chitturu
Male Costume
Lower Garment-
Mondi: This is a dhoti reaching upto the knee. This is of white colour. No pleats are drawn. Men of
poor section wear mondi when they go for work to fields (without shirt).
Mundu: This is also a white dhoti. In this simple pleats are drawn in front side. The length of this
dhoti is upto the heels. Men wear it while going to formal places (with shirt).
Dhotarju: This is also a lower garment of white colour with a narrow green border. This is mostly
used by older people.
Konam: Loin cloth or langota.
Loongi : This a lower garment. In this more than 2 colours are used. It is mostly worn by young
people.
Upper garment-
Seret: This white shirt may be full or half sleeved.
Pagoti: Pagri or turban, mostly of white colour.
Thorthumundu or vesti: Duppata or scarf worn on upper body, usually white in colour having strip
border.
Urdupp: Shirt or kurta
Double mundu: White silk mundi having zari work, worn by bridegroom.
35
36
Footwear-
They use to wear sandals generally of leather and shoes
without socks.
Jewellery-
Melivu: Finger ring
Chain: For neck
Tribes of Kerala in Attapadi region decorate themselves
fully with chequered bead necklaces. Use less expensive
materials like brass, aluminum bead or grass.
KATHAKALI - The makeup is very elaborate and the
costumes are very large and heavy.
There are several kinds of costume. There are: Sathwika
(the hero), Kathi (the villain), Minukku (females), and
Thatti.
Each character is instantly recognisable by their
characteristic makeup and costume.
37
38
KARNATAKA
TEXTILES
Kollegal sarees
These are silk sarees with extra weft designs in the pallav,
border and the body. In the body there are also extra figure
motifs to suit the ground warp. The feature of this saree is the
intricate pallav.
Mysore sarees
These are famous for silk and chiffon having zari border and
pallav. These sarees have some poster shades and are useful
during summer.
Gulegudda sarees
These are with traditional Karnataka designs with wide borders
and big pallavs with extra warp figures on all over designs and at
times stripes designs in the ground with similar motifs in the
borders.
39
Mysore sillk saree
Belgaum sarees
These are with silk warp cotton weft with bright colours and are
popular in ghats regions specially in Karnataka.
Irkal saree
Bijapur is famous for its silk sarees with rich pallav called ‘Irkal’
sarees.
There are 3 rows of floral dobby design against dark background
warp way in the border and fine ‘ Kangru’ towards the body.
The main feature of the saree is the contrast colour of wrap and
weft giving a light and dark shade effect.
The border is simple and is generally woven in red silk and patterns
in gold. The pallu carries a red white silk pattern of bold stripes
known as top and teni pallu.
40
Bangalore sarees
These sarees have a light body colour or pastel shades in body and dark colours
in the border and pallav.
These are some heavily woven zari sarees worn on festive occasions. There are
also tiny check patterns in body.
Most of the sarees have plain body and floral pattern in border and pallav.
The mango designs are invariably woven in the pallavs. Bangalore sarees have
usually broad borders which are woven solid with 3 shuttles, one for body and 2
for border.
Shahpur sarees
These are cotton sarees. Contrasting coloured wrap and weft, checks and stripes
and have a simple border is either a chatai (mat) pattern or small rudraksha (bead)
pattern.
41
Molkalmuru sarees
Molkalmuru sarees of Mysore had their distinctive tradition of
simple ikat weave, combined with a rich silk or gold border
carrying stylized motifs of parrots.
The Ikat design was always in white.
Druggets, Durries and Carpets
Navalgund Durries
Simple geometrical design squares, diamonds, lines, chains, stripes
a well as stylized parrots and peacocks.
The colours normally used are rust, lemon, yellow, green and black.
Many of the durries carry a central pattern of chopati (a game
played with dice). These durries are locally known as jamkhands.
42
Channapatna silk druggets
Channapatna is unique in producing spun silk druggets.
Kasuti embroidery
It is also called Kashida of Karnataka.
It is done mostly on hand-woven cloth.
It is done on garments like – kusuba/kubsa (Bodice or
choli), Kulai (Bonnet), Lenga (Skirt), Kunchi (Bonnet and
cape combined), Sharagu (Pallav of saree).
The motifs selected in Kasuti are mainly related to temples
and nature forms.
Tulsi katte, chariots, palanquins, cradle, rath, flowers,
animals-elephant, peacock, sparrow, serpent; hanuman,
shankh are famous motifs of this embroidery.
43
Stitches
Negi: It is ordinary running or
darning stitch which gives effect
of woven design.
Murgi: It is the zig-zag running
stitch. It gives effect of ladder.
Menthi: It is ordinary cross stitch.
Gavanti: It is back stitch or double
running stitch.
These are done in clear brilliant
colours like scarlet, red, green,
yellow, white, purple, blue etc. if
the ground is dark yellow, white is
chose for the motifs, white red
blue and purple colours are chosen
on white ground. 44
45
Gavanti Stitch Motifs with Gavanti Stitch
KARNATAKA
Female Costume
Lower Garments-
Sari: One end of the sari is gathered into a bunch of
frontal pleats, while the other free end passing across
the bosom is drawn over the left shoulder so that
either it hangs behind or covers the back fully up to
the right shoulder and arm.
Among the women of labouring classes, the posterior
tuck is common as it facilitates free movement.
Young ladies wear saree of silk and older ladies wear
saree generally of cotton with blouse but not with
petticoat.
The usual dress of a girl consist of a langa (skirt) and a
jacket. 46
Upper Garments-
Kuppsa: A tight-fitting short jacket or Blouse.
The kuppsa is generally made of coloured cloth with gussets and often
has borders.
Half saree: Dupatta is made up of cotton or silk and of any colour. It is
worn by girls before marriage which is a part of their dress lunga dawani.
Muslim women wear either sari and blouse or pyjamas and full-sleeved
shirt.
47
48
Footwear
In ancient times, Karanataka people kept the feet bare. After passing long time
they started wearing plastic or rubber chappals (churpe). Now a days leather
footwear.
Jewellery
Tali: Necklace.
Tying of thali or tali is an essential part of the marriage ceremony
corresponding to the putting of ring in Christians.
Mangulya: Or Mangla Sutra is a necklace compulsory to be worn after
marriage.
Shishphool: Circular gold head ornament.
Veni: head ornament of flower buds.
Girls do full make up before marriage but after marriage they do not use make
up.
Marriage necklace of coorgs is made up of tiny black beads connected by very
small links of a gold chain.
49
Male Costume
Lower garments-
Langoti: Undergarment
Dhoti: Called dhotara with a narrow coloured border on each
of the lengthwise sides.
 It is draped round the waist with a posterior tuck in the same
manner as found in Maharashtra.
 In some place younger men wrap a coloured or white shorter
piece of cloth (panche) in lungi-style
50
Upper Garments-
Shirt or banian
 Elders often throw a piece of cloth (shalya or angavastra) over their
shoulders.
Pheta: Headdress often bordered by a lace. It is wound round the head in
a triangular fashion.
Many elderly people of the upper class wear voluminous white turban.
Cap is also occasionally worn in place of turban.
Men of the Muslim community generally wear dhoti, but elderly men
sometimes use pyjamas. They use a skull-cap before tying turban.
The Coorgs men wear trousers, shirt and coat.
A red or blue sash of cotton or silk is wound round the waist several times
before being knotted.
A turban,large and flat at the top,is worn covering the nape of the neck.
51
TAMIL NADU
TEXTILES
Kanchipuram Sarees
These sarees have broad pallu having all
religious motifs and temple designs and are
worn on festive occasions.
The main raw materials are silk and gold zari
thread comes from Surat.
52
Kanjeevaram Sarees
These are silk sarees. These are
always woven in full bright colours
and zari in borders and pallu.
A special feature is the contrast
pallav and borders. About 6 to 7
coloured are used in pallav.
Kodalikeruppar brocaded and
printed sarees
This saree combined finely woven
cotton with motifs worked with
Jamdani weave in gold thread with
the woven designs as the focal
point, the outlines and details were
worked in the with natural dyes in
the Kalamkari technique. 53
Kanjeevaram Sarees
54
Cotton sari with extra weft
patterning from Kanchipuram,Tamil
Nadu
Silk sari brocade ‘pallav’,from
Kanchipuram,Tamil Nadu
Kumbhakonam sarees
Kumbhakonam is famous for hand-woven sarees and equally famous
for silk sarees, with zari border and pallav.
Coimbatore sares
Coimbatore sarees are cotton sarees with higher counts and also
pure silk and cotton mixed sarees with colourful borders and pallav.
The feature of this saree is that these are woven in dark colours
and are most useful for winter season.
Tanjore sarees
Tanjore specialized in weaving the all over gold work sarees for
wedding and for temples. These carry rich broad borders in gold
work and pallus with patterns derived from temple friezes.
55
56
Bhawani durries
Woven in silk and cotton. They are prepared in brilliant colours
with a central pattern of lotus and borders of flowing floral
pattern as well as stylized parrot forms.
Applique work
Appliqué hangings, banners, and decorations for temple carts used
to be made in and near Thanjavur.
Felt material or velvet, were appliquéd to a cotton background and
the appliquéd patterns were then edged with cotton cords.
The background colour was usually red with pieces of cream,
green, yellow and black cloth being used for the appliquéd pieces.
The central motifs are usually of Ganesh, Lakshmi or other deities
surrounded by floral motifs.
57
Toda Embroidery
Toda women embroider geometric
designs between two bands of their shawl
to give pallav a striking appearance.
The embroidery is worked by counting
threads of material, giving the impression
that the patterning is achieved through
weaving rather than by embroidery.
This embroidery is called pugar means
flower.
58
Rudraksham
Puli negam
Kamalam
Neli
Pogidi
Jadai nagam
Salangai
Star
Manga butta
Arai madam
Temple reku
Diamond
Traditional motifs used as a base design in weaving of South Indian
textiles
TAMIL NADU
COSTUME
Female costume
Lower garments-
Vesti: used by the poorer section of the people. The women tie it around their
waist, continue one end of it to cross their breast and make knot near the
left armpit. The shoulders look bare. No one wears blouse or choli.
Pudavai or selai: 7 to 10 yards length sari. The style of wearing generally
depends on the caste or the section of a community.
It is customary for the Brahmin women to pass the inner end of the sari
between the legs and to tuck in at the waist behind. The point at which the
pleats are tucked is vary with different styles.
59
 More often the frontal pleats are
tucked in at the left hip as in the
fashion with the Smartha and Iyer
women (Fig.1)
 Vaishnava women, for instance the
lyengars do not use any ornamental
fold. The mode of wrapping takes
the opposite direction. (Fig.2)
 Mambayakattu is another mode of
wearing sari. It is the mode of
wearing sari in which puckers are
tucked in the shape of mango.
 For marriage the beautiful
kanjeavaram silk sari of deep red
colour is used.
60
Fig.1 Fig.2
Upper garments-
Ravikkai: A tight jacket used as an upper garment, is slowly giving
place to blouse of modern style.
The dress of young girls consists of a long skirt pleated all round, a blouse
and a half-sari (davani) which does not fully cover the skirt.
61
Jwellery
 Minji: Ornament for toes
 Thayathus: Necklet.
 Onnumani: A special ornament for bride worn round neck.
 Thali: an ornament with an amulet.
 Nettiswaram: Gold plated and studded with sparkling stones.
 Rakudi: big round disc, studded with stones at the back of head.
 Mangalsutra: Consists of 2 sq. gold pendants on which a tulsi plant is engraved.
 Surya: The small round head ornament.
 Chandra: crescent shaped head ornament.
 Jingle: Gold Bangles
 Vangli: An ornament used to wear at the upper arm.
 Valayal and Kappu: Wrist ornaments
 Mookku Pottu: Nose ornament
 Kattu Olai or Mayira Matti: Ear ornaments
62
Thali
Hair Styles
 Kondi: The women fold part their hair in the middle and
tie it into a light knot at the back with a small twist. It is a
type of jura.
 Kanjalam: Hair combed into a plait and decorated with
flowers.
Tattooing
 Tattoo marks are used for decorating arms.
63
64
Male costume
Lower garments-
Langoti or Komanam: Piece of cloth
used as under garment.
Vesti: white colour dhoti worn in three
different modes. The panchagachcham
mode of wear uses five tuckings (Fig.1).
The more common mode of wearing of
Brahmins is known as trikachcham, using
only three tuckings.
But the most common way of wearing the
dhoti is to wrap it in a simple manner round
the waist without a back-tuck (Fig.2)
Loongi: lower garment with pleats in front.
Kuttu dhoti: White silk dhoti with a
narrow yellow border.
Fig.1
Fig.2
Upper Garments-
Angvastram: Means ‘body cloth’. This is a half
silk dhoti edged with zari and used for the
upper part of the body. It is put round the
shoulders.
Vatriyam: Safa used to tie at waist or head. Its
width and length is shorter than Angvastram.
Kupayam ( Kurta): It is half sleeved and round
at lower portion, is used by older people.
Shirt: Full sleeved or half sleeved.
Jewellery-
Kodi: gold chain
Kuttu: Finger rings
65
Costume of Todas
The todas of the nilgiri hills around Ootacamund are a small tribe.
Putkulli/Puthkulli
Both men and women wear a shawl of white cotton, usually about 9 yards
long called ‘ Putkulli’. The end of this shawl has 2 woven bands of either
red and black or red and indigo.
Jewellery
Toda men wear silver rings on the right or left hand and gold earrings.
The women wear bracelets or bangles, armlets adorned with bundles of
cowries, necklace made sometimes of coins, ear rings and brass circlets
round the waist.
These ornaments are generally made of either brass or silver.
66
67

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South indian textiles & costumes

  • 2. India has a rich and varied textile heritage, where each region has its own unique native costume and traditional attire. Costume like architecture, is one of the most visible signs of a civilization. What a person wears is often indicative of his or her personal and social identity, marital status, occupation and sometimes-even religion. Indian clothing is popular for its colorfulness and grace. Though the majority of Indian women and men wear traditional costumes, the urban population residing in cities can be found in more conventional western clothing. 2
  • 3. The ‘Deep South’ of India consists geographically of the four main states between Maharasthra and the tip of the continent. Andhra Pradesh Kerala Karnataka Tamil Nadu 3
  • 4. ANDHRA PRADESH TEXTILES Pochampalli Sarees  Originally the tie and dye sarees are produced in two colours, red and black only.  Recently new technique had been evolved where several colours are brought into the colour schemes. Gadwal Sarees  Gadwal cotton sarees are noted for their heavy zari work, pallav and borders.  This saree shows on either side two different colours produced during the loom process.  Warp and weft in the body are in cotton , Pallav and borders are in silk. 4
  • 5. 5
  • 6. 6
  • 7. Narayenpett Sarees:  Hyderabad is famous for its silk sarees with gorgeous pallavs in dazzling colours, known as Narayenpett sarees.  These have silk warp and silk weft. The body is of dark colour and they have light colour check or vice versa. These are worn on festive occasion. 7
  • 8. Armoor Silk Sarees  Silk sarees with extra weft buttis of a star or a single flower on the body and gold patta border.  The heavy gold pallu had gold thread is the weft and extra weft patterns woven with silver thread in the centre.  Borders on four sides were woven in extra weft with silk yarn. 8
  • 9. Siddipett Sarees The saree is woven on a fly shuttle loom. Each saree has a colourful pallav. Ikat Cloth Ikat weaving in Andhra is known as “ Chitka”. Square double clothes are produced which are called Telia Rumals or Aisa Rumals. Telia Rumals with Ikat patterns in maroon, white and black were traditionally worn by the men in Andhra. It had multiple uses being worn as lungi, as a turban, as well as scarf to be thrown on shoulder. 9
  • 10. 10 Detail of single-ikat silk sari probably from Pochampalli,Andhra Pradesh ‘Telia rumal’ double-ikat cloths from Puttapaka village, near Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh
  • 11. 11 Single and double-ikat sari in the Orissan style but woven in Masulipatnam, Andhra Pradesh
  • 12. Kalamkari Kalamkari means work with pen or Kalam. Dyes, mordants and resists are applied with Kalam. Kalamkari tradition in Andhra has a strong tradition of temple cloths used as a part of temple ritual relating the episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. These cloths are also used for decorating rathas or chariots. The basic dye used by the Kalamkari craftsman is an iron liquor preparation known as kaseem. 12
  • 13. 13 Contemporary bedcover, decorated with ‘kalam’ work and printing, from Masulipatnam, Andhra Pradesh
  • 14. 14 Drawing out a design with a kalam pen,in Kalahasti,Andhra Pradesh Kalamkai cloth depicting a scene from the Mahabharata epic.
  • 15. Himroo/ Himru An inferior type of Indian brocade is the Himroo a specialty of Hyderabad and Aurangabad, in which both silk and cotton yarn is used to produce variegated designs, woven on the principle of extra weft figuring. 15
  • 16. Mashroo/ Mashru Mashroo is also an intricately woven fabric with exquisite design and weaves and was appreciated by Kings and nobles. It was used by Muslim community. Carpets and Druggets Though they now have a strong local flavour, their designs are still of Persian. Carpets were also known as Deccan Rugs. 16
  • 17. Cotton Durrie Weaving Horizontal looms are required for making sharrangis, the local name for durries and light durries of second and 3rd quality. First quality artistic cotton durries are made on vertical looms. Crotchet laces The articles produced include placements, centre pieces, spreads and lace by the yard. Banjara Embriodery Banjara embroidery is noted for its lively decoration. Gaily coloured fabric and embellished with mirrors, glass beads, coins, cowries shells, beads, cotton and woolen tassels. 17
  • 18. ANDHRA PRADESH COSTUME Female costume Lower Garments- Cira : Simple saree Usually it is worn with pleats in front. The portion of pleats tucked in the naval is denoted by the term kucellu. There are several ways of draping the upper body. One is to draw the free end of the material from the right thigh across the bosom and over the left shoulder corner which is tucked in at the right side of the waist thus draping the back. Another ways is to reverse the direction 18
  • 19. 19 Godakattu: Mode of wearing saree among non Brahman group is called Godakattu. They wear saree in lungi manner in which there are no front pleats. Mattagochi: Mode of wearing saree among some labouring classes is Mattagochi. Lahenga: Unmarried girls wear lahenga as lower garment.
  • 20. Upper Garments- Ravikalu or Ravikkai: Bodice use to support the bust is called Ravikalu or Ravikkai. Mulmuska: It is dupatta worn by the bride at time of marriage. Grown-up girls wear ravika with a long skirt pleated all round and tied at once end as a lower garment. Over the skirt they wear pamita (half-sari). Muslim women generally wear the same dress as the Hindu women, but some wear salwar and kameez. 20
  • 21. Jewellery  Chempa pinlu: Hair pins of gold  Bhaskam: Mahatikka  Chamanti Panu: Plait of chrysanthemum flowers.  Mukku Padaka: Nose ring  Nath: Worn in middle portion of nose.  Ghogrichotla: A heavy silver plated ear-pendant attached to a band of silver chains which decorate either side of the parted hair.  Dudu Butta: Earrings with bells.  Lalakulu: Earrings without bells. 21
  • 22.  Pusthila Thadu ( Mangalsutra): Gold chain with two circular locquates and 2 pins.  Chandrahar: Necklace  Aravanki: Bajuband (Armlet)  Vaddla Nam: Kamarband (Waist band)  Gajulu: bangles  Ungram: Finger ring  Pattalu: Pajeb/ Payal ( Anklet)  Kadiyalu: Silver, tubular anklets, worn by old married ladies.  Matellu: Toe ring  Telugu Mendicants sue wrist threads of human hair for both bride and groom. 22
  • 23. Male Costume Lower Garments- Pancha: Dhoti This mode of wearing dhoti like a lungi is called goodakattu. Panchakattu or gochipancha is the most common mode of wearing dhoti. The middle portion of the right side is made longer than that of the left side. The left portion is drawn up between the legs and tucked in the waist at the back. The hind tucking is called gochi and the front pleats are called kuchchelu. This mode is used for formal and religious occasions. Dhoti is usually with red or green thin borderline made up of cotton fibre. Lagu: Pants of young boys 23
  • 24. 24 The Dhoti, known locally as "Mundu," "Veshti," "Pancha" or "Panche," is a traditional male clothing of south India. A 5-yard- long unstitched cloth is draped double-folded and knotted at the waist.
  • 25. Upper Garments Lachi or Chokka: It is the shirt or kurta Paibatta: It is a scarf which is the much more general attire and is almost an invariable component of the ensemble of the higher classes. It is prescribed item of the dress on ceremonial or religious occasions. Talapaga or Talepaga: The freshly folded turban which is very commonly white in colour, but all over Andhra preferred moving about bare headed. Pagadi: The lower classes use a smaller piece of cloth to wind round the head to cover it against sun. Paypancha: it is a shash which they put on their shoulder. 25
  • 26. Jewellery  Ungam: Finger ring made of gold.  Chain: Made of gold.  Janjum: It is the Janew they wear at the time of marriage and this time it is made of gold. 26
  • 27. 27 KERALA TEXTILES Cotton textile of Kerala include Batik and screen printed lungis. Kerala has recently started weaving sarees. Traditionally it wore lungis for men and women. Kerakudi sarees These sarees are famous with bright Pallavs and borders and woven with silk warp and silk weft. Karakal sarees These are made up of unbleached or off white cotton with rich broad gold borders and pallavs.
  • 29. Balrampuram sarees Blarampuram near Trivandram have fine texture with silk warp and silk weft having temple designs, motifs and are worn on festive occasions. At times zari buttis are also used. Kusaru zari sarees Kerala Kusaru zari sarees are prized by women all over India for their fineness count and texture and gold borders. Cheese cloth Handloom cotton crepe is popularly known as cheese cloth and is widely used for readymade garments. 29
  • 30. Embroidery and lacework Syrian embroidery was the first to find its way into Kerala. In many parts of Kerala, embroidery and lace work is an important and leisure time occupation for women. Articles such a bed spreads, table-linen, cushion- covers and sofa covers are commonly made. Other minor crafts of Kerala are cotton rag dolls and cotton caps making. 30
  • 31. KERALA COSTUME Female costume (Lower garments)- Tuni: Small loin cloth of white colour worn as under garment. Onnaramundu: An undergarment worn by the most women of Hindu community. Vetticoat: Long under garment worn during work time. Sari: Full length saree reaching upto heel. Dhoti: Lower garment reaching upto the knee. This is of cotton and white in colour. Mund Neryath: Old ladies used to wear set which is called Mund Neryath. It includes Munda (dhoti which is light coloured like cream or pink with or without borders), half-saree (Dupatta like) and coloured blouse which may be matching or not to the colour of saree. Pavada: Long skirt reaching upto toes which the girls wear with blouse. Manthrakodi: Cream coloured veil saree to cover body from head to toes at the time of marriage.  In all cases the entire length of the saree is wrapped around the waist with numerous pleats, like a skirt and nothing is left for draping the torso.  In modern times most ladies have adopted the all India style of saree and choli.31
  • 32. A south Indian woman wearing a traditional kerala saree or Set-Saree 32 Woman with coloured "veshti" sari from Kerala
  • 33. Upper Garments- Blouse: It is a half sleeved garment. The opening is full in front with ‘V’ or round necklines. The length is upto naval. Chatta: This is a full sleeved blouse. Body: Garment blouse tied with a knot a round waist. Urap: Frock worn by girls. Davani: Half saree use by the girls over the long skirt. Makkana: This is a coloured cloth used to cover the head. In the some communities like palla, women wear only saree which is called chela. Deep red, yellow and green are favourite colours of the saree. The torso is kept bare. The Muslim women’s dress consists of white or coloured mundu,full or half- sleeved jacket with tight neck and a scarf thrown over the head and faling over the shoulders. Modern styles are slowly replacing the traditional ones.A large number of women wear half-sari in combination with mundu and blouse. 33
  • 34. Footwear They wear plastic footwear. Jewellery  Nettipattom: is forehead ornament.  Chadappilla: Ornament for hair plait down the back.  Kondappeo: Circular ornament for back of head.  Kolusuvala: Payal/ pajeb  Chandrapalakka: Necklace  Poothali: Necklace  Udyanam: Waist ornament  Navpatra: 9 or 10 coin necklace  Chitturu: Necklace.  Channa viras: Kamarband  Minchi: Ring for second toe  Vanki: Bangles for upper arm. 34 Chitturu
  • 35. Male Costume Lower Garment- Mondi: This is a dhoti reaching upto the knee. This is of white colour. No pleats are drawn. Men of poor section wear mondi when they go for work to fields (without shirt). Mundu: This is also a white dhoti. In this simple pleats are drawn in front side. The length of this dhoti is upto the heels. Men wear it while going to formal places (with shirt). Dhotarju: This is also a lower garment of white colour with a narrow green border. This is mostly used by older people. Konam: Loin cloth or langota. Loongi : This a lower garment. In this more than 2 colours are used. It is mostly worn by young people. Upper garment- Seret: This white shirt may be full or half sleeved. Pagoti: Pagri or turban, mostly of white colour. Thorthumundu or vesti: Duppata or scarf worn on upper body, usually white in colour having strip border. Urdupp: Shirt or kurta Double mundu: White silk mundi having zari work, worn by bridegroom. 35
  • 36. 36 Footwear- They use to wear sandals generally of leather and shoes without socks. Jewellery- Melivu: Finger ring Chain: For neck Tribes of Kerala in Attapadi region decorate themselves fully with chequered bead necklaces. Use less expensive materials like brass, aluminum bead or grass.
  • 37. KATHAKALI - The makeup is very elaborate and the costumes are very large and heavy. There are several kinds of costume. There are: Sathwika (the hero), Kathi (the villain), Minukku (females), and Thatti. Each character is instantly recognisable by their characteristic makeup and costume. 37
  • 38. 38 KARNATAKA TEXTILES Kollegal sarees These are silk sarees with extra weft designs in the pallav, border and the body. In the body there are also extra figure motifs to suit the ground warp. The feature of this saree is the intricate pallav. Mysore sarees These are famous for silk and chiffon having zari border and pallav. These sarees have some poster shades and are useful during summer. Gulegudda sarees These are with traditional Karnataka designs with wide borders and big pallavs with extra warp figures on all over designs and at times stripes designs in the ground with similar motifs in the borders.
  • 40. Belgaum sarees These are with silk warp cotton weft with bright colours and are popular in ghats regions specially in Karnataka. Irkal saree Bijapur is famous for its silk sarees with rich pallav called ‘Irkal’ sarees. There are 3 rows of floral dobby design against dark background warp way in the border and fine ‘ Kangru’ towards the body. The main feature of the saree is the contrast colour of wrap and weft giving a light and dark shade effect. The border is simple and is generally woven in red silk and patterns in gold. The pallu carries a red white silk pattern of bold stripes known as top and teni pallu. 40
  • 41. Bangalore sarees These sarees have a light body colour or pastel shades in body and dark colours in the border and pallav. These are some heavily woven zari sarees worn on festive occasions. There are also tiny check patterns in body. Most of the sarees have plain body and floral pattern in border and pallav. The mango designs are invariably woven in the pallavs. Bangalore sarees have usually broad borders which are woven solid with 3 shuttles, one for body and 2 for border. Shahpur sarees These are cotton sarees. Contrasting coloured wrap and weft, checks and stripes and have a simple border is either a chatai (mat) pattern or small rudraksha (bead) pattern. 41
  • 42. Molkalmuru sarees Molkalmuru sarees of Mysore had their distinctive tradition of simple ikat weave, combined with a rich silk or gold border carrying stylized motifs of parrots. The Ikat design was always in white. Druggets, Durries and Carpets Navalgund Durries Simple geometrical design squares, diamonds, lines, chains, stripes a well as stylized parrots and peacocks. The colours normally used are rust, lemon, yellow, green and black. Many of the durries carry a central pattern of chopati (a game played with dice). These durries are locally known as jamkhands. 42
  • 43. Channapatna silk druggets Channapatna is unique in producing spun silk druggets. Kasuti embroidery It is also called Kashida of Karnataka. It is done mostly on hand-woven cloth. It is done on garments like – kusuba/kubsa (Bodice or choli), Kulai (Bonnet), Lenga (Skirt), Kunchi (Bonnet and cape combined), Sharagu (Pallav of saree). The motifs selected in Kasuti are mainly related to temples and nature forms. Tulsi katte, chariots, palanquins, cradle, rath, flowers, animals-elephant, peacock, sparrow, serpent; hanuman, shankh are famous motifs of this embroidery. 43
  • 44. Stitches Negi: It is ordinary running or darning stitch which gives effect of woven design. Murgi: It is the zig-zag running stitch. It gives effect of ladder. Menthi: It is ordinary cross stitch. Gavanti: It is back stitch or double running stitch. These are done in clear brilliant colours like scarlet, red, green, yellow, white, purple, blue etc. if the ground is dark yellow, white is chose for the motifs, white red blue and purple colours are chosen on white ground. 44
  • 45. 45 Gavanti Stitch Motifs with Gavanti Stitch
  • 46. KARNATAKA Female Costume Lower Garments- Sari: One end of the sari is gathered into a bunch of frontal pleats, while the other free end passing across the bosom is drawn over the left shoulder so that either it hangs behind or covers the back fully up to the right shoulder and arm. Among the women of labouring classes, the posterior tuck is common as it facilitates free movement. Young ladies wear saree of silk and older ladies wear saree generally of cotton with blouse but not with petticoat. The usual dress of a girl consist of a langa (skirt) and a jacket. 46
  • 47. Upper Garments- Kuppsa: A tight-fitting short jacket or Blouse. The kuppsa is generally made of coloured cloth with gussets and often has borders. Half saree: Dupatta is made up of cotton or silk and of any colour. It is worn by girls before marriage which is a part of their dress lunga dawani. Muslim women wear either sari and blouse or pyjamas and full-sleeved shirt. 47
  • 48. 48
  • 49. Footwear In ancient times, Karanataka people kept the feet bare. After passing long time they started wearing plastic or rubber chappals (churpe). Now a days leather footwear. Jewellery Tali: Necklace. Tying of thali or tali is an essential part of the marriage ceremony corresponding to the putting of ring in Christians. Mangulya: Or Mangla Sutra is a necklace compulsory to be worn after marriage. Shishphool: Circular gold head ornament. Veni: head ornament of flower buds. Girls do full make up before marriage but after marriage they do not use make up. Marriage necklace of coorgs is made up of tiny black beads connected by very small links of a gold chain. 49
  • 50. Male Costume Lower garments- Langoti: Undergarment Dhoti: Called dhotara with a narrow coloured border on each of the lengthwise sides.  It is draped round the waist with a posterior tuck in the same manner as found in Maharashtra.  In some place younger men wrap a coloured or white shorter piece of cloth (panche) in lungi-style 50
  • 51. Upper Garments- Shirt or banian  Elders often throw a piece of cloth (shalya or angavastra) over their shoulders. Pheta: Headdress often bordered by a lace. It is wound round the head in a triangular fashion. Many elderly people of the upper class wear voluminous white turban. Cap is also occasionally worn in place of turban. Men of the Muslim community generally wear dhoti, but elderly men sometimes use pyjamas. They use a skull-cap before tying turban. The Coorgs men wear trousers, shirt and coat. A red or blue sash of cotton or silk is wound round the waist several times before being knotted. A turban,large and flat at the top,is worn covering the nape of the neck. 51
  • 52. TAMIL NADU TEXTILES Kanchipuram Sarees These sarees have broad pallu having all religious motifs and temple designs and are worn on festive occasions. The main raw materials are silk and gold zari thread comes from Surat. 52
  • 53. Kanjeevaram Sarees These are silk sarees. These are always woven in full bright colours and zari in borders and pallu. A special feature is the contrast pallav and borders. About 6 to 7 coloured are used in pallav. Kodalikeruppar brocaded and printed sarees This saree combined finely woven cotton with motifs worked with Jamdani weave in gold thread with the woven designs as the focal point, the outlines and details were worked in the with natural dyes in the Kalamkari technique. 53 Kanjeevaram Sarees
  • 54. 54 Cotton sari with extra weft patterning from Kanchipuram,Tamil Nadu Silk sari brocade ‘pallav’,from Kanchipuram,Tamil Nadu
  • 55. Kumbhakonam sarees Kumbhakonam is famous for hand-woven sarees and equally famous for silk sarees, with zari border and pallav. Coimbatore sares Coimbatore sarees are cotton sarees with higher counts and also pure silk and cotton mixed sarees with colourful borders and pallav. The feature of this saree is that these are woven in dark colours and are most useful for winter season. Tanjore sarees Tanjore specialized in weaving the all over gold work sarees for wedding and for temples. These carry rich broad borders in gold work and pallus with patterns derived from temple friezes. 55
  • 56. 56 Bhawani durries Woven in silk and cotton. They are prepared in brilliant colours with a central pattern of lotus and borders of flowing floral pattern as well as stylized parrot forms. Applique work Appliqué hangings, banners, and decorations for temple carts used to be made in and near Thanjavur. Felt material or velvet, were appliquéd to a cotton background and the appliquéd patterns were then edged with cotton cords. The background colour was usually red with pieces of cream, green, yellow and black cloth being used for the appliquéd pieces. The central motifs are usually of Ganesh, Lakshmi or other deities surrounded by floral motifs.
  • 57. 57 Toda Embroidery Toda women embroider geometric designs between two bands of their shawl to give pallav a striking appearance. The embroidery is worked by counting threads of material, giving the impression that the patterning is achieved through weaving rather than by embroidery. This embroidery is called pugar means flower.
  • 58. 58 Rudraksham Puli negam Kamalam Neli Pogidi Jadai nagam Salangai Star Manga butta Arai madam Temple reku Diamond Traditional motifs used as a base design in weaving of South Indian textiles
  • 59. TAMIL NADU COSTUME Female costume Lower garments- Vesti: used by the poorer section of the people. The women tie it around their waist, continue one end of it to cross their breast and make knot near the left armpit. The shoulders look bare. No one wears blouse or choli. Pudavai or selai: 7 to 10 yards length sari. The style of wearing generally depends on the caste or the section of a community. It is customary for the Brahmin women to pass the inner end of the sari between the legs and to tuck in at the waist behind. The point at which the pleats are tucked is vary with different styles. 59
  • 60.  More often the frontal pleats are tucked in at the left hip as in the fashion with the Smartha and Iyer women (Fig.1)  Vaishnava women, for instance the lyengars do not use any ornamental fold. The mode of wrapping takes the opposite direction. (Fig.2)  Mambayakattu is another mode of wearing sari. It is the mode of wearing sari in which puckers are tucked in the shape of mango.  For marriage the beautiful kanjeavaram silk sari of deep red colour is used. 60 Fig.1 Fig.2
  • 61. Upper garments- Ravikkai: A tight jacket used as an upper garment, is slowly giving place to blouse of modern style. The dress of young girls consists of a long skirt pleated all round, a blouse and a half-sari (davani) which does not fully cover the skirt. 61
  • 62. Jwellery  Minji: Ornament for toes  Thayathus: Necklet.  Onnumani: A special ornament for bride worn round neck.  Thali: an ornament with an amulet.  Nettiswaram: Gold plated and studded with sparkling stones.  Rakudi: big round disc, studded with stones at the back of head.  Mangalsutra: Consists of 2 sq. gold pendants on which a tulsi plant is engraved.  Surya: The small round head ornament.  Chandra: crescent shaped head ornament.  Jingle: Gold Bangles  Vangli: An ornament used to wear at the upper arm.  Valayal and Kappu: Wrist ornaments  Mookku Pottu: Nose ornament  Kattu Olai or Mayira Matti: Ear ornaments 62 Thali
  • 63. Hair Styles  Kondi: The women fold part their hair in the middle and tie it into a light knot at the back with a small twist. It is a type of jura.  Kanjalam: Hair combed into a plait and decorated with flowers. Tattooing  Tattoo marks are used for decorating arms. 63
  • 64. 64 Male costume Lower garments- Langoti or Komanam: Piece of cloth used as under garment. Vesti: white colour dhoti worn in three different modes. The panchagachcham mode of wear uses five tuckings (Fig.1). The more common mode of wearing of Brahmins is known as trikachcham, using only three tuckings. But the most common way of wearing the dhoti is to wrap it in a simple manner round the waist without a back-tuck (Fig.2) Loongi: lower garment with pleats in front. Kuttu dhoti: White silk dhoti with a narrow yellow border. Fig.1 Fig.2
  • 65. Upper Garments- Angvastram: Means ‘body cloth’. This is a half silk dhoti edged with zari and used for the upper part of the body. It is put round the shoulders. Vatriyam: Safa used to tie at waist or head. Its width and length is shorter than Angvastram. Kupayam ( Kurta): It is half sleeved and round at lower portion, is used by older people. Shirt: Full sleeved or half sleeved. Jewellery- Kodi: gold chain Kuttu: Finger rings 65
  • 66. Costume of Todas The todas of the nilgiri hills around Ootacamund are a small tribe. Putkulli/Puthkulli Both men and women wear a shawl of white cotton, usually about 9 yards long called ‘ Putkulli’. The end of this shawl has 2 woven bands of either red and black or red and indigo. Jewellery Toda men wear silver rings on the right or left hand and gold earrings. The women wear bracelets or bangles, armlets adorned with bundles of cowries, necklace made sometimes of coins, ear rings and brass circlets round the waist. These ornaments are generally made of either brass or silver. 66
  • 67. 67