The traditional costumes of Himachal Pradesh are diverse and colorful, changing based on community and tribe. The main communities are Brahmins, Rajputs, and various tribes like Gaddis and Pangawals. The Brahmins typically wear kurtas and turbans, while the Rajputs favor tight churidars and stiff turbans. The Gaddi tribe, who are shepherds, wear thick wool cholas coats and unique topi caps to endure the harsh weather. Shawls are a prominent fabric, especially fine pashmina shawls, featuring floral and folklore designs. Traditional headgear also varies by region, such as the colorful Kullu topi caps.
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Bdft i, hcr, unit-iii ,traditional costume of himachal pradesh,
1. Traditional Costume ofHimachal Pradesh
Introduction
The state of Himachal Pradesh is nestled in the Western Himalayas. It is a very popular tourist destination
and the main tourist hubs are Dalhousie, Shimla, Manali, Kullu, Kangra and Chamba. The state has both
lush green forests and trans-Himalayan desert. The entire state is well connected by roadways and
railways. It is often referred to as ‘Devbhumi’ or the Land of the Gods.
Ethnic Wear Of Himachal Pradesh
The demography of Himachal Pradesh is extremely diverse and has multiple communities, tribes and
castes. The major Hindu communities residing in the state include Rajputs, Kolis, Rathis, Brahmins and
Kanets. The major tribes residing in the state are Pangawals, Gujjars, Gaddis, Kinnars and Lahaulis.
Owing to this diverse demography in the state, the costumes of Himachal Pradesh are diverse and very
colorful. The attire and costumes change from community to community and from tribe to tribe. The
cold weather conditions prevalent throughout the state encourage sheep and goat husbandry, as it
provides for the demand of woolen products. The local people are engaged in the process of weaving and
their effort is directed to meet both the local and national demands. The major woolen products of
Himachal Pradesh which are very popular are Loi/Chaddars, Himachali Shawls, Gudma, Numdha,
Pattoo, Kullu caps etc.
Attire Of The Brahmins
The Brahmin priests dress up in the traditional Kurta, waist coat, turban or Pagri, hand towel and a copy
of Panchang or the astrological yearbook of the Hindus. The women wear Kurtas, Ghagris, Cholis,
Rahide and Salwars.
Attire Of The Rajputs
The Rajputs of Himachal Pradesh usually wear body-hugging Churidars, Pyjamas, starch-stiffened
turbans, long coats and point edged shoes. The men also boast and showcase thick handle bar
moustaches and a dignified frown on their foreheads. Previously, there was the prevalence of the Purdah
or Veil system. The conventional attires of the women are Ghagri, Salwar, Kurta, Rahide and Cholis.
Worker Class
The farmers and other working classes wear a loincloth, Kurta and cap. Pajamas and other richly
embellished dresses are worn on festive occasions such as marriages etc.
Tribals
The main tribe of Himachal Pradesh is the Gaddis. They also dwell in the state of Jammu and Kashmir
and belong to various castes such as Rajputs, Brahmins, Thakur, Rana and Dhangar/Gaderiya. They are
shepherds by profession and thus have to bear the full brunt of the harsh weather conditions. To protect
themselves from the weather, they wear special coats known as Cholas. The Cholas are woven from
special handspun variety of wools. The Cholas are tightened around the waist area with the help of a
waistband also known as Dor. The Dor is usually made of sheep wool and are sometimes 60m in length.
The portion above the Dor is loose and is used by the shepherd to stow stuffs such as lambs. The legs are
covered with Pajamas made from Patti material, also known as Unali Suthan.
The Gaddis also wear a special type of headgear known as Topi, which are made from sheep wool, with
a peak like projection and flaps on the sides. The projection represents the Mount Kailash and the flaps
protect the ears of the shepherds during the harsh climatic conditions. The front of the cap is adorned
with dried flowers, decorative beads and bird feathers. The Gaddis also sport a special type of leather
show, known as Mocharu. They are very heavily built and thus correspond to durability and longevity.
During marriages and other festive occasions, the Gaddis wear cotton frocks which are red or maroon
colored. The frocks are further decorated with frills, mirrors and pippins and are popularly known as
2. Luancha or Kadds. They are tied around the waist area with yellow or white cotton strands, known as
Patlka. Maroon or red colored shawl is worn over the frock and an intricate Sehra or veiled headgear is
also worn as per customs.
The Gaddi women wear Luanchari with Dor and accompanied with long Dupattas. The Luancharis are
very elaborate in make and requires around 20 meters of fabric. The Dors are usually black colored and
it also serves the purpose of carrying loads on the back. The Luanchari of the young girls are more
brightly colored. During the winter season, the women also wear white colored woolen Cholas, to escape
the harsh weather.
Himachali Shawls
During the summer months, the goats shed the fleece in the high mountains. During the winter, the local
people spin and weave high quality fabric. The most notable and famous is the Pashmina Shawl, which
is made from the hair of Pashmina Goat. Different shades of blue, grey, mustard and white are blended
to create exquisite varieties of shawls. The Dhoobroo and Pattu are the favorite varieties of shawls.
Motifs Used In Shawls
The Bushehari craftsmen of Rampur district introduced the trend of patterns and colors. The Himachali
shawls have predominant floral and geometrical designs. The designs depict the episodes of Krishna
stealing butter, or flirting with Radha or a scene from a local fair etc. The embroiderers from Chamba
district further incorporated murals into the designs of the shawls. Slowly and steadily the bright colors
are being replaced by pastelcolors.
Himachali Caps
The headgears of Himachal Pradesh, also known as Kullu Topi, are very significant and integral aspect
of Himachal culture. The design of the cap vary from area to area. Colorful bands with exquisite and
beautiful colors are the major features of a Himachali or Topi. Instead of bright colors, vegetable colors
are steadily gaining popularity. The caps are sold in a variety of sizes such as small, large and medium.
Pattoo
The traditional dress of the local women of Kullu, Pattoo is variety of shawl, which is longer, heavier
and thicker. Pattoos are usually worn over clothes and are draped like sarees. They are pinned below the
shoulders with silver pins and broaches, which are also known as Boomani. The unique feature of the
Pattoo is that it is both manufactured as well as purchased locally. The Pattoos are usually named in
accordance to its designs and patterns. Some of the most popular Pattoos are Daba, Chitra, Chhiyan,
Teen Phoolwala, Plain, Dhari etc. The more decorative and elaborate Pattoos are usually worn on special
festive occasions.
Muffler
Mufflers are a variety of woolen products, which are worn around the neck. The exquisite varieties of
mufflers are made from angora, merino and pashmina wools. The mufflers are also named in accordance
to the designs or patterns they bear. The gents’ mufflers are usually shorter than the ladies mufflers. The
craftsmen of the region are very skilled and talented and thus are able to create the best of the designs in
the mufflers.