Waves are caused by the movement of energy through water. Wave characteristics like wavelength, frequency, and height are determined by factors like wind strength and distance under wind. Near shore, waves increase in height and decrease in wavelength, forming breakers and surf zones. Tsunamis caused by earthquakes can be only a few centimeters in deep ocean but increase dramatically to over 20 meters at shore. Ocean waves cause drift which migrates sand down beaches and forms sandbars, as well as rip currents that rapidly pull water out to sea. Erosion is impacted through barrier beaches, roots of sand dunes, and cement groins.

1. 6th Grade science Ocean Motion

2. I. Wave Action Waves 1. Movement of energy through water 2. Size i. Strength of Wind ii. Distance under wind

3. 3. Motion i. Characteristics a. Wavelength: Crest to Crest b. Frequency: Number of waves past a point c. Height: Rests to Crest

4. B. Near Shore Breaker i. White capped waves ii. Height increases iii. Wavelength decreases iv. Surf Zone: Shore to beaker formation

5. 2. Tsunamis i. Earthquakes ii. Few cm in deep ocean iii. Shore increases to 20 meters

6. C. Affects to Shore 1. Drift i. Sand migrates down beach ii. Form a sandbar 2. Rip Currents i. Rapid movement out to sea

7. D. Erosion 1. Barrier Beaches 2. Sand Dunes - Roots 3. Groins - Cement

8. II. Tides Cause: Moon’s Gravity B. Timing: Two highs and lows per day

9. C. Monthly Spring Tide (High) 2. Neap Tide (Low)

10. III. Chemistry A. Salty Ocean 1. 1 kg has 35 grams of salt 2. Varies with rain, evaporation… (41g) 3. Prevents freezing

11. B. Ocean Properties 1. Temperature 25°C to freezing 2. Gases i. Carbon Dioxide 60 times higher ii. Oxygen about same as in air

12. C. Depth 1. Temperature drops 2. Pressure increases

13. IV. Currents A. Surface 1. Driven by winds 2. Climate

14. IV. Currents B. Deep Currents 1. Cold Salty water travels to equator 2. Warm less dense water travels to poles C. Upwelling 1. Wind pulls away warm water 2. Deep cold water replaces (full of nutrients)