Sportswear sewing uses fabrics like stretch knits and water-repellent nylons. Interfacings like stretch interfacing and bias tapes are used rarely and help avoid stretching. There are several techniques used in cutting and spreading fabrics including using a rolling rack or turntable to spread fabrics under tension for different modes. Cutting is done on machines like band knives, hot notchers, or lasers to accurately separate pieces while transferring marks. Proper bundling, shade separation and work ticketing is done after cutting before pieces are sent for sewing.

2. Introduction
• Sportswear sewing is different from tailoring
or fine dress making because of use of thin
insulations, two-way stretch knits, and shiny
nylons woven so tightly that they repel water.
• Fabrics which stretch in both directions,
crosswise and lengthwise, are called two-way
or four-way stretch knits.

3. Lining
1. Tricot
2. Two-way stretch knit fabric
3. Woven Nylon
4. Pre quilted Lining
5. Polyester Bunting
6. Sew-in Interfacings

5. Interfacing
• Interfacings are used rarely in trackwear.
• The most commonly used are stretch
interfacings.
• Other than this, bias tapes are used in places
where stretching is to be avoided.
• Other than this, woven interlinings are also
used.

6. Fusing Equipment
• Flat Bed fusing Press
 It consists of two horizontal metal platens between which the fabric and
interlining laminate are sandwiched.
 Heat is provided by electric elements, usually in the top platen only, but
sometimes in the bottom as well. The elements provide a uniform
temperature over the whole surface.
 Pressure is applied by closing the platens together mechanically,
hydraulically or pneumatically.
 Fusing time is normally controlled by an automatic timer, and is typically
of the order of 8–12 seconds.

7. Fusing Equipment
• Continuous Fusing Machine
 These systems operate by passing the garment part, with its interlining
placed on it, past a heat source, and either simultaneously or
subsequently applying pressure.
 The maintenance of the required temperature is less of a problem inside a
fully enclosed, continuously operating press than with a flat bed press,
especially with modern electronic temperature controls.

8. Spreading Technique
• During Spreading, all the lays should have
both nap and face in one way.
• Ideal height of lay should be between 3-3.5”
and factors affecting it are fabric nature, fabric
thickness, Number of production and height
of cutting blade.

9. Spreading Equipment
• Solid Bar: Even though this method is apparently unsound, this kind of
spreading by two workers is still used. There is no tension control in this
type of spreading and hypothetically can be used for any mode of
spreading.
• Turntable: It is another manually operated spreading machine. It is
manually pushed down the table and there is no control over fabric
tension. Turntable is ultimate for N/O/W, F/O/W and N/U/D modes of
spreading

10. Spreading Equipment
• Automatic Rolling Rack
 It has a drive motor and end switches that allow the machine to
automatically drive itself from beginning to the end of the table and back.
 The machine can be fitted with an end cutter that would also
automatically cut off the end for F/O/W, N/O/W spreading.

11. Cutting technique
• Cutting is the process of separating a spread into garment components as
a replica of pattern pieces on a marker. It also involves transferring marks
and notches from the marker to garment components to facilitate sewing.
• The main requirements of cutting are accuracy of cutting, clean edges, and
consistent cutting.
• If the lay is knitted fabric, then the lay should be cut into sections and left
on the spreading table overnight to relax.
• It is also worth noting that the lay height should not be more than 70% of
the length of straight cutting knife.

12. Cutting Technique
• Once the panels are cut following processes occur before panels are sent
for sewing process:
 Bundling
 Shade Seperation
 Indication of face side of fabric
 Work Ticketing

13. • Straight Knife Cutting Machine: Straight knife cutting machine is the
most popular and versatile cutting machine and can cut higher lay of height
easily.
• Band Knife Cutting Machine: . This cutting machine works automatically
according to the height of the relevant material. Band knife cutting
machines have been recognized around the world for many years for its
high quality cutting.
Cutting Equipment
Straight Knife Machine Band Knife Machine

14. Cutting Equipment
• Hot Notcher Cutting Machine: The Hot Notcher is a multi-
purpose tool used for marking and temporarily fusing loosely woven
fabrics which can ensure precise alignment for sewing accuracy.
• Drill Cutting Machine: This machine is also used for marking on
the middle of the components of fabric for position of pockets,darts
etc. It can make the hole permanently for a long.

15. Cutting Equipment
• Laser Cutting Machine: In laser cutting machine, the fabric is cut by a ray
of light in a very fine spot by using a laser. Laser cutting processing
depends on its precise processing, faster, simple operation, high degree of
automation has been widely used in the leatherand apparel industry. The
cutting head is controlled by a computer.
• Rib Cutting Machine: These are specialized machines used to cut rib or
rolls of strips from knitted tubular fabrics. Knit garment industry uses this
machine widely.

16. Bibliography
• Books:
 Technology of Clothing Manufacture by Carr & Latham
 Sewing Activewear by Singer
 Tracksuits and Casual Wear by Linette Maritz
• Internet
• http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2016/12/types-fabric-cutting-
machines.html
• https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/cutting-department-
garment-industry.html
• http://fashion2apparel.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-
process.html
• https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/marker-making-garment-
industry.html