"It is the spirit of pirate legend, immortalized in the subculture of Jimmy Buffett; it's the liquid essence of the Caribbean — and of today, Aug. 16.; National Rum Day! How the sugar-cane fermentation came to be honored with its own day is an enigma. Over the past few years, writers, webmasters and connoisseurs have obligingly celebrated the day, but they offer little light to shine on the origin of this "holiday." Even the die-hards on the members-only message board at The Ministry of Rum (http://ministryofrum.com) pointed to articles calling the day's beginnings a mystery. Efforts to gain some insight from Mount Gay Rum of Barbados — the self-proclaimed "rum that invented rum" — as well as the West Indies Rum and Spirit Producers Association were fruitless. Nevertheless, there is plenty of rum on the retail shelves, ranging in variety from light to dark to spiced to fruit-infused. So a dearth of information on how this particular holiday evolved does not lead to a shortage of inspiration on how to enjoy the worldly alcoholic beverage. To celebrate National Rum Day, regardless of its incarnation, three local foodies put rum to task ..."

1. W
henitcomestodessert,I’mnota
bigfanofDeathbyChocolate.I
prefersomethinglight,fruityand
somewhatlesslethal.Anyconfection
Itacklemustalsolookprettyandbe
easytoprepare.
Ifoundjustthethingrecentlyin
anewcookbookIcheckedoutofthe
LancasterPublicLibrary.
CharlesMattocks’
“EatCheapButEat
Well”includesarecipe
foradessertthat’snot
onlyinexpensivebut
relativelyhealthfuland
quitetasty—provided
youlikegrahamcrack-
ers.
Thistreatisbest
preparedatleasteight
hoursandpreferablya
daybeforeserving.My
husbandlikeditbetter
after32hoursthan
afterjusteight.Ican’tsayhowfurther
agingmighthaveimproveditbecause,
giventhatsecondchance,heateitall
up!Itnormallymakesfourgenerous
servings.
Here’smytakeonMattocks’:
GRAHAM CRACKER FRUITTORTE
1 cup fresh berries, puréed in
blender
7-8 ounces refrigerated whipped
cream/topping
12 whole graham crackers (5-by-2Ö
inches)
½ jar berry preserves
Fresh whole berries for garnish
Blendpuréedfruitintoabowlof
whippedcream/topping.
(Iusedblueberries;thebookalso
suggestsraspberries;andstrawber-
rieswouldwork,aswell.Iusedfat-free
pre-whippedtopping,butapurist
unconcernedaboutcholesterolcould
whipupsomeheavycream.)
Spread6crackerswithathick
layerofpreserves.(Iusedtheall-fruit,
no-sugarblueberryvariety.)Spread5
crackerswithathick
layerofthefruit-cream
mixture.
Toassemble,place
apreserve-covered
cracker,preserves-
sideup,onaplate.Top
itwithafruit-cream-
coveredcracker,
fruit-creamsideup.
Continuetoalternate,
finishingwithapre-
serve-coveredcracker.
Topthatwiththe12th
cracker,aplainone.
Then,usingtwolargespatulas,turn
theslipperystackonitsside.Spreadall
sideswithfruit-cream.
Refrigerateatleast8hours,prefer-
ablyovernight.Garnishwithfresh
berriesbeforeserving.
Thegrahamcrackerswillbesoft
enoughthatasharpknifewilleasily
slicethrough,revealingcontrasting
layersofgraham,jewel-tonedpre-
servesandpastelcream.
“Sunday Best” is a biweekly column
that features the best — or favorite
— recipes of Sunday News staff
members. Write to Books pages editor
Jo-Ann Green at jgreene@lnpnews.
com.
August 16, 2009 SUNDAY NEWS, LANCASTER, PA.
FOOD/BEVERAGE
Michael C. Upton/Sunday News photos
GlazedCinnamonRumBun
“WhereIgo,Ihopethere’s
rum!”
—JimmyBuffett,
Volcano
By Michael C. Upton
Sunday News Correspondent
I
tisthespiritofpirate
legend,immortalized
inthesubcultureof
JimmyBuffett;it’sthe
liquidessenceofthe
Caribbean—andoftoday,
Aug.16.;NationalRumDay!
Howthesugar-cane
fermentationcametobe
honoredwithitsownday
isanenigma.Overthepast
fewyears,writers,webmas-
tersandconnoisseurshave
obliginglycelebratedthe
day,buttheyofferlittlelight
toshineonthe originofthis
“holiday.”
Eventhedie-hardson
themembers-onlymessage
boardatTheMinistryof
Rum(http://ministryofrum.
com)pointedtoarticles
callingtheday’sbeginnings
amystery.Effortstogain
someinsightfromMount
GayRumofBarbados—the
self-proclaimed“rumthat
inventedrum”—aswellas
theWestIndiesRumand
SpiritProducersAssociation
werefruitless.
Nevertheless,thereis
plentyofrumontheretail
shelves,ranginginvariety
fromlighttodarktospiced
tofruit-infused.Soadearth
ofinformationonhowthis
particularholidayevolved
doesnotleadtoashortageof
inspirationonhowtoenjoy
theworldlyalcoholicbever-
age.
TocelebrateNational
RumDay,regardlessof
itsincarnation,threelocal
foodiesputrumtotaskby
creatingspecialrecipesfor
SundayNewsreaders.
Hamilton Club baker
Brad Miller offered up a
ScRUMptious
Local
food-and-drink
pros prepare
special recipes
for today ... or
any day!P-tini V-punch
Jam-packed with taste
SundayBest
Jo-AnnGreene
O
kay,I’lladmitit.When
wewalkedbyOnion’s
Café,andsawthatitwas
anAmericandiner-likejoint
thatalso
served
afew
Korean
dishes
dur-
ingthe
evening,
Iwas
extremelyskeptical.My
husbandthoughtweshould
giveitatry,butdespitemy
loveforKoreancuisine,my
reticenceprevailed.
Severalweeksago,aKo-
reanfriendfromCalifornia
cametovisit.He’salovely
oldergentlemaninhis60s
whocametotheU.S.whenhe
was16yearsold.Aswedrove
throughLancaster,Iheard
myhusbandsay,“Wehaveto
takehimtoOnion’s!”
BeforeIcouldsayany-
thing,hewasonthephone,
“Hi,we’dliketocomeby
forlunch.WehaveaKorean
friendwithus.WhenIsay
Korean,he’sFROMKorea.
SoIknowyouonlyhaveKo-
reanfordinner,butweonly
havetimeforlunchtoday.So
willyoumakesomething?”
Atprecisely12:13p.m.,
wewalkedintoOnion’sCafé.
Ithasasimpleandfunc-
tionalfeel,asfengshuiwould
dictate.
Bothfullofspunk,the
server and my guest spoke
Onion’s is a happy taste of Korea
Onion’s
Café
340N.QueenSt.
Lancaster
396-8777
NoReservations
LinaBierker
PleaseseeRUM,pageG7
PleaseseeONION’SpageG7
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2. boozybreakfastorhigh-oc-
tanedessertwithhisGlazed
CinnamonRumBuns.
GLAZED CINNAMON
RUM BUNS
Sweet Dough:
24 ounces bread flour
3 ounces granulated
sugar
½ ounce instant dry yeast
2 eggs
12 ounces water
½ ounce salt
4 teaspoons butter,
melted
½ cup cinnamon sugar
3 ounces shortening
½ cup dark rum
Combinefirstthreedry
ingredientsinmixer.Add
eggsandwater.Usingthe
dough-hookattachment,mix
for15minutesonlow.Add
saltandmixforanadditional
2minutes.Setasidethe
dough,allowingittodouble
insize.
Afterithasrisen,roll
doughlengthwiseonfloured
surface.
Brushwithmeltedbutter
andsprinklecinnamonsugar
ontop.
Handrollthedoughinto
acylindricalshapeandcut
into1-inchpieces.
Placethepiecesina
shortening-greased10-inch
cakepan.
Proof[allowdoughtorise
onemoretime]andthen
bakeat350Ffor20minutes.
Removethebunsfrom
panandplaceonawirerack.
Pourrumoverthetopwhile
bunsarestillwarm.
Spreadicing(recipefol-
lows)ontopofbuns.
Rum Icing:
3 tablespoons softened
butter
3 tablespoons light corn
syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon salt
1 pound confectioners
sugar
¼ to ½ cup rum
Placeallingredientsin
bowl;blend.
Chef Michael Carson,
ofJohnJ.Jeffries,putthe
restaurant’slocalspinon
rumbytakingadvantageof
theseasonalpeach.Carson’s
savoryChilledPeachand
RumSoupcanbesweetened
byreplacingpeppersand
crèmefraîchewithfruits
andicecream.
CHILLED PEACH AND
RUM SOUP
8 cups roasted peaches
1 cup roasted sweet
onion
1 teaspoon rosemary
½ cup dark rum
2 cups sour cream
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons brown
sugar
½ cup water
Peelskinsandremove
pitsfrompeaches.Roast
peachesandonionin350F
ovenfor10minutes.
Afterpeachesandonions
cool,addallingredients
toblenderandpuréeuntil
smooth.
Placeinrefrigeratorto
chill.Garnish(recipefol-
lows)andserve.
Garnish:
1 small peach
¼ cup of sweet onion
1 teaspoon jalapeno
pepper
3 mint leaves
1 teaspoon lime juice
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon crème
fraîche
Dicepeach,onionand
jalapeñointosmallpieces.
Combineinbowlwith
choppedmintandlimejuice,
saltandpepper.Mixwell.
Place crèmefraîchein
centerofsoupandtopwith
garnishmixture.
To wash it all down,
Ola“Karina”Michalska,of
Vinola’sRestaurantBar,
Leola,offers“feminine”and
“masculine”versionsofrum
drinks,atwistonthetradi-
tionalpineapplemartiniand
classicrumpunch,respec-
tively.
P-TINI
4½ ounces pineapple rum
1½ ounces white
cranberry juice
1½ ounces light rum
1½ ounces pineapple
juice
Overice,combineingre-
dientsinstandardshaker.
Shakewellandstraininto
martiniglass.
Garnishwithpineapple
sliceandmaraschinocherry.
V-PUNCH
1½ ounces dark rum
1½ ounces spiced rum
1½ ounces fresh orange
juice
1½ ounces pineapple
juice
Combineingredientsover
iceinastandardrocksglass.
Stirandgarnishwitha
limeandpineapplewedges.n
SUNDAY NEWS, LANCASTER, PA. August 16, 2009
ChilledPeachandRumSoup
Michael C. Upton/Sunday News
Cheers!
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Continued from8
Rum:
inKorean,withhimtrying
tofigureoutwhatheshould
order.Whenshewalkedaway,
heexplainedthat“Iasked
howtheKoreanfoodwas.She
saidthatitwasn’tasgoodas
Philadelphia,butit’lldo.”
Hilarious.
AtraditionalKoreanmeal
startswithseveralsmall
dishes,calledbanchan,to
whettheappetite.Callthem
thetapasofthepickledfood
world.Kimchi—spicy,
fermentednapacabbage
—isalwaysastaple,asare
otherpickledvegetables.At
Onion’sCafé,yougetasmat-
tering.Theywereaverage,
buttheyheldtruetotradition.
Thehubbyordered
Bulgogi($10.99),amarinated,
thinlyslicedbeefthatisbest
eatenatatraditionalKorean
BBQwherethehotstonegrill
isplacedinthemiddleofthe
table,forreal-timegrilling,
byyou!Whenit’snot,it’s
probablypan-fried,andhas
thepotentialofcomingtothe
tableovercookedanddry,
Andthat’swhathappened
withhisBulgogi.Whileit
retaineddeliciouslysubtle
sweetness,thedrynesswas
disappointing.
MyfriendandIeach
orderedtheBiBimBap($9).
“BiBim”means“mixed,”
and“Bap”means“rice.”So
yougetamixedricebowl.
Whatareyoumixing?Ontop
ofabedofhotwhiterice,a
colorfularrayofvegetables
andproteinarepresentedin
sections.Oh,youhavetodo
themixingyourself.
Ofthevegetables,
blanchedspinach,bean
sprouts,shiitakemushrooms,
andmarinatedfernstemsare
theusualsuspects.Thereisa
sectionoftendermarinated
beef,thinlyslicedandmost
likelypan-fried.It’sslightly
sweet.Thenanegg,cooked
over-easy,isgentlyplaced
ontopofitall.Thecoupde
grace,though,istheGochu-
jang—thesoy-chilipaste
thatcomesontheside.Scoop
asmuchasyou’dlikeontop
ofeverything,andthenjust
startmixingaway.
Whenmyfriendtookthe
firstbiteofhis,wegawkedex-
pectantly.Heclosedhiseyes
anddeclared,“Notbad!”
Me?Ihadtoadmit,that
dishwasprettydarnedgood.
Write to Sunday News
restaurant critic Lina Bierker
at living@lnpnews.com.
Continued from8
F
ollowingareresultsof
inspectionsforLancaster
cityrestaurants,grocery
storesandotherestablish-
mentsthatsellfood,conducted
bytheLancasterCityEnviron-
mentalHealthandProtection
UnitJune30-July28;291-4707
or291-4714.
Listedarethenamesand
locationsoftheestablishments
andinspectorcommentscon-
cerninghealth-codeviolations
orcompliance.
AJSupermarket,451E.KingSt.
Replaceceilingtiles.Repairelectrical
socket.Muchimprovementnoted.
AllCityFoods,809E.OrangeSt.
Refrigeratorintruckisapprovedfor
use.Handsanitizerinuseandsepa-
ratecuttingboardsonsite.Glovesin
use.Three-bowlsink.Allisinorder
anduptocode.
AuntieAnne’sNo.2,upperlevel,
ParkCityCenter.Kioskisveryclean
andwell-maintained;noviolations.
Bird’sNest,10S.PrinceSt.Estab-
lishmentiscleanandwell-maintained.
Brickyard,415N.PrinceSt.Estab-
lishmentisingoodcondition.
Border’sBookShopandCoffee
Bar,1509PlazaBlvd.Providesani-
tizerpailonfrontcounterareawhen
openforbusiness.
BurgerKing,ParkCityCenter.New
establishment.Foodsafetycertified.
OKtobeginoperation.
Checkers,300W.JamesSt.All
temperatureswithinrequiredrange,
aspercode.Twoonstaffarefood-
safetycertified.
CosmosBarGrill,464ManorSt.
Outerpremisesneedtobecleaned.
Cleanupparkinglot.Openbeerbottle
wasbycarbeingrepairedinlot.
CVSNo.66,ParkCityCenter.
Pre-packagedfooditemsanddairy
itemsforsale.Casescleanandwell-
organized.
FamilyDollarStore,23S.DukeSt.
Pre-packageddairyproductsforsale
aswellasfrozenpre-packageditems.
AlltemperaturesOK.
FastLane,14S.PrinceSt.Date
andlabelallmeatandcheeseprod-
uctsindeli.
Frank’sPlace,454NewHolland
Ave.Newestablishment,readyto
openafterfinalcleaning.
GalloAvery/Brendee’sCafé,449
W.LemonSt.Handsinkobstructed.
Kitcheninorderandclean.Bararea
well-maintained.
JKSupermarket,545NewHol-
landAve.Pre-packagedfooditems
anddairyproductsavailable;no
violations.
JasmineSmoothieWorldand
BubbleTea,ParkCityCenter.Kiosk
isverywell-maintained;foodsafety
certified.
Kegel’s,551E.KingSt.Tem-
peraturelogsmaintained.Shellfish
logsavailable.Verywell-maintained
establishment;fiveonstaffarefood-
safetycertified.
Kelsey’sPub,14BroadSt.
Providedscreenondoor.Barsinksset
upwithsanitizerasrequired.Barisin
goodorder.
KiannyGroceryDeli,76Howard
Ave.Dateandlabelmeatandcheese
products.Purchasesanitizerandtest
strips.Handsinkobstructed.
LaCocinataCubana,322½
N.QueenSt.Newbusiness;OKto
operatemobileunitonSouthPrince
Street.
LancasterBreweryCo.,302-304
N.PlumSt.Providesignathandsink
toremindemployeestowashhands.
Providescoopwithhandleinflour.
Cleanthefloorfangrill.Alltempera-
turesgood;kitchenlookinggood.
LancasterFarmFresh,Central
Market.Newstandinoperation.Stand
iscleanandorganized.
LosMuchachos,158S.QueenSt.
Cleanandorganizeareanotinuse.
McDonald’s,545N.FranklinSt.
Storeisverycleanandmaintained.
QdobaMexicanGrill,ParkCity
Center.Keepscoopsoutofice;cor-
rectedonsite.
Q’sLooms,CentralMarket.New
marketstand.OKtooperate.
SuperstarGroceryStore,454N.
QueenSt.Noviolations;delinolonger
inoperation.
SpyroGyrosandSalads,241N.
QueenSt.Cleantherearofouter
premisesandmaintain.Paintingtooc-
curthroughoutestablishment.Signs
inbathroomtoremindemployeesto
washhands.
VEMiniMarket,239E.Juniata
St.Removecratesfromentranceon
sideofbuilding.Providelidsontrash
cans.
•The following stands
were inspected at the
Lancaster Puerto Rican
Festival:
LaCocina.Allinorder.
PuertoRicanCommittee.Very
well-kept.
TheRibHouse.Noviolations.
717Italian.Standisnverygood
orderandwell-kept.
WingsThings.ServSafecerti-
fied;allcoderegulationsinplace.n
Onion’s: Bringing the flavor of Korea to Lancaster
City Food Service Inspections
I
tisabouttwomonths
beforeharvestandFrank
Hewitthasnobuyers
yetforanyoftheCabernet
Sauvignononhis17acresin
Calistoga,Calif.
Frank’sfruitequatesto
about4,000casesofpremium
winethatwouldsellforat
least$50abottle.Butwith
salesofallsuchwinesflatas
atable,histaleisfarfrom
unique.Indeed,it’sthesame
storyaroundthestate.
Theweakenedeconomy
thathasbuyerstradingdown
tolower-pricedwinehas
changedthemarketforwine
grapes180degrees.Some
industryanalystssaythata
goodportionofthefruit,in
evenprestigelocationssuch
as Napa and Sonoma, may go
Family harvests and the times
On wine
PleaseseeWINE,pageG6