Exploring Costa Rica

1. GAILHAMPSHIRE
32
COSTARICA
LETTERS FROM THE EDGE
TASTE&TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL OCTOBER–DECEMBER 2015
WHERE ON EARTH
Costa Rica
THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT At the
market; Butterfly
at Finca Educativa
Don Juan; Fruit for
sale; Hummingbird;
Howler monkey;
Finca Educativa
Don Juan; Tree
frog; Recycling
at Tabacon; Local
food sign; Arctiidae
beetle; Touring
Rancho Margot;
Ceviche. MAIN PHOTO
Rio Aguajitas.

2. TRISHHARTMANN
ENTONCE
MONKEYS,
MANGOES
AND
MARAÑONS
33
COSTARICA
LETTERS FROM THE EDGE
COSTA
RICAbyRACHEL WEIL
MATTMACGILLIVRAY
Exploring

3. COSTA RICA might be
small in size, but the country
is a must-see destination.
Located in Central America,
just a short flight from
the US, the country is
bursting with a variety of
monkeys, birds, reptiles
and amphibians, as well as
mouth-watering farm-to-
table fare. Whether you’re
in search of the indigenous
howler monkey, or excited
about the array of organic
fare, a visit to Costa Rica is a
real treat.
THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT The
gardens at Finca
Educativa Don
Juan; Iguana; Sign
at Rancho Margot.
34
LETTERS FROM THE EDGE
TASTE&TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL OCTOBER–DECEMBER 2015
COSTARICA

4. Rice and beans are staples in nearly every
Costa Rican dish, as well as fresh fruits,
vegetables, seafood and sweets. From bananas,
pineapples, mangoes and papayas to unique
foods such as the marañon (fruit of the cashew
tree), to local dishes and gluten-free fare, there
are plenty of choices when it comes to Costa
Rican cuisine. There are numerous eco-farms to
explore, learning about harvesting techniques,
and sampling foods along the way.
My first night in Costa Rica was spent at El
Silencio Lodge & Spa, a luxury eco-lodge in Bajos
del Toro that offers educational activities and
thrill-seeking adventures in addition to relaxation.
The property’s 500-acre reserve is home to
numerous waterfalls, hidden hiking trails, and an
adventure park for ziplining and rappelling. In
addition, El Silencio offers coffee tasting sessions
and tree planting days, as well as wine tasting
experiences with their sommelier. My favourite
activity was the bird-watching trail, which
included a walk through a maze-like garden filled
with beautiful flowers and welcoming
hummingbirds.
For a true Costa Rican experience, you can also
team up with chef Carlos Meléndez González to
pick organic vegetables and herbs from the on-
site garden, and then prepare your very own
traditional Costa Rican meal.
SERVES 2
Vegetable Ceviche
CEVICHE IS a popular Costa Rican dish that typically
includes marinated raw fish. This a vegetarian version.
1 BOIL the green plantain for 10
minutes. When it has cooled, peel
and cube.
2 CUBE the palm fruit and tomato.
3 FINELY chop the onion, pepper
and cilantro.
4 ADD all ingredients to a glass bowl
and marinade with the lime and
orange juice.
5 ADD salt and pepper to taste and
chill for 30 minutes.
6 GARNISH with avocado slices and
serve with your favourite chips.
Green Plantain 1
Peach Palm
Fruit1
4, peeled
and cooked
Tomato 100 g
Red Onion 40 g
Fresh Cilantro
50 g
Fresh Orange
Juice 2 oz
Limes 2, juiced
Red Pepper
40 g
Salt and Pepper
to taste
Avocado 1
1
In place of palm fruit use watermelon, green mango, choko
or Granny Smith apples.
35
LETTERS FROM THE EDGE
OCTOBER–DECEMBER 2015 TASTE&TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL
COSTARICA
Cook
it

5. If you prefer the chef whips up his own creation,
Las Ventanas restaurant — next to the lobby — offers
an enticing menu. The modern Caribbean-style
dishes contain local ingredients sourced from the
resort’s organic mini-farm. I was happy to see the
numerous vegetarian and gluten-free options at
the restaurant and ordered plantain chips for a
starter, followed by the traditional dish, Casado.
My next stop was the charming town of La
Fortuna, one of the main tourist destinations in
Costa Rica (and all of Central America). The major
attraction is the Arenal Volcano, but the town is
also quite charismatic, full of restaurants, local
artisan shops, exotic plants and howler monkeys.
I’ve had a love for monkeys since I was young
but I wasn’t very familiar with howler monkeys,
which are indigenous to Central and South
America. They are among the largest of the New
World monkeys and are recognized by their loud
howls. (Thanks to an impromptu howl from our
local guide, the family of monkeys we spotted
had a lot to say). Howler monkeys are considered
to be the loudest land animal and according
to The Guinness Book of World Records, their
howls can be heard up to three miles away.
The Fortuna region is also home to some
extraordinary sustainable farms. I first visited
Rancho Margot, a 400-acre off-the-grid eco-lodge
and education centre located in the heart of the
rainforest. I was greeted by the founder, Juan
Sostheim, who led a guided tour of the ranch.
Sostheim is dedicated to sustainable production
and education, and eagerly spoke about sustainable
farming, composting and creative recycling. “We
like being able to say that we have no wires coming
onto the ranch,” stated Sostheim. “Our power is
generated through hydroelectric turbines and is
delivered through underground cables.” If you’re
not an expert on sustainability when you arrive
at the ranch, you will be by the time you leave.
The second eco-centre I visited was Finca
Educativa Don Juan, a smaller ranch positioned at
the foot of the Arenal Volcano. Over 50 organic
crops are harvested on the property, a few of
which I was able to taste. Our guide explained
the cultivation methods used on the ranch as we
explored the property flourishing with butterflies
and birds, and at least one very colourful toucan.
La Fortuna is full of surprises, and nestled in the
middle of the rainforest at the Arenal Volcano
National Park is Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort,
one of the leading resorts in Costa Rica.
The eco-friendly resort and spa has received
countless awards from numerous publications,
SERVES 4–6
Sour Cream Ice Cream
TASTY TEMPTATIONS from El Silencio Lodge & Spa.
1 IN a pot boil the milk, vanilla and half
of the sugar.
2 IN a separate bowl, whisk the eggs
along with remaining sugar.
3 DISSOLVE the cornstarch thoroughly
in the water and whisk into the egg/
sugar mixture.
4 SLOWLY add the boiled milk
concoction to the egg mixture while
whisking. Proceed very slowly to avoid
cooking the egg, stirring constantly
until the mixture thickens.
5 POUR the mixture into a clean metal
bowl and chill in an ice water bath,
continuing to mix and stir with a
spatula or spoon until the mixture
chills (this can take up to 10 minutes).
6 ADD the sour cream and mix
thoroughly.
7 POUR the mixture into an ice cream
maker and churn until desired
thickness is reached.
8 FILL Popsicle molds with the mixture
and freeze overnight.
Fresh
Strawberries
1 lb
Eggs
3 large
Caster Sugar
240 g
Whole Milk
3 cups
Vanilla Extract
2 Tbs
Cornstarch
6 Tbs
Water
⅛ cup
Sour Cream
1 L
36
LETTERS FROM THE EDGE
TASTE&TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL OCTOBER–DECEMBER 2015
COSTARICA
Cook
it

6. Visit Costa Rica
www.visitcostarica.com
El Silencio Lodge
www.elsilenciolodge.com
La Fortuna de San Carlos
www.fortunawelcome.com
Rancho Margot
www.ranchomargot.com
Finca Educativa Don Juan
www.fincaeducativadonjuan.webs.com
Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort
www.tabacon.com
Aloft San Jose
www.aloftsanjosecostarica.com
RACHEL WEIL is a contributing writer and
photographer who shares her unique discoveries
of culture, wine and adventure with readers
worldwide.
Click
it
The next morning before heading to the airport, I
visited a tiny local restaurant called Rancho Mi Tata.
The fast food place had tables outside covered with
pineapples, bananas, mangos, caimitos (Costa Rican
star apples), granadilla (passion fruit), mombín
(plums), marañons, pejibaye (vegetable resembling
an acorn), and my favourite fruit, the exotic
rambutan. Admiring the assortment of exotic fruits
and vegetables, I realized it was reminiscent of Costa
Rica itself… endlessly abundant and full of
unexpected pleasures.
including Travel + Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, Organic Spa
Magazine and National Geographic. The five-star property
has five naturally occurring thermal springs with
temperatures ranging from 77 to 122 degrees Fahrenheit, as
well as two main branches of the thermal river that flow
through the gardens, and one cold river spring that flows
down from the rainforest.
After a dip in two thermal springs, I decided to pamper
myself at The Grand Spa (located in a private spot among
the gardens) where I relaxed with a tasty fruit smoothie
before my massage.
All treatments at The Grand Spa take place in outdoor
bungalows made of palm leaves, caña brava (a wild shrub
similar to bamboo) and local wood. Whether you prefer a
Volcanic Mud Wrap, Chocolate Joy Exfoliation, or
Shirodhara massage, the open-air bungalows allow you to
experience your therapy amongst the chattering wildlife,
fresh air from the rainforest, and the soothing sound of the
hot springs.
If you’re at Tabacon during breakfast hours, check out
Los Tucanes restaurant for an unforgettable dining
experience. There are food stations galore, including an egg
and omelette bar, pancake and waffle station, tropical fruit
juice bar, seasonal fruit selection, cereals and cold-cuts,
cheese platters, as well as smoked fish and local specialties.
Travelling in paradise can be quite exhausting, so on my
last night in Costa Rica I was happy to sink into bed at Aloft
San Jose. This swanky hotel sits in San Jose’s trendiest
neighbourhood, 10 minutes from Escazú (a great little area
for shopping, restaurants and nightlife), and just six miles
from the Juan Santamaria International Airport.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT Casado;
Flower in bud;
Tabacon desserts.
37
LETTERS FROM THE EDGE
OCTOBER–DECEMBER 2015 TASTE&TRAVEL INTERNATIONAL
COSTARICA