This document describes a research study on the pilling resistance and extensibility of single jersey jacquard knitted fabrics made from different stitch lengths and yarn types. Samples will be produced using 100% polyester, 60/40 cotton/polyester blend, and 20/80 cotton/polyester blend yarns at different stitch lengths. The samples will be tested for properties like pilling resistance, extensibility, air permeability, abrasion resistance, and thickness. The results will help identify which yarn type and stitch length combination provides the best balance of pilling resistance and extensibility.

1. BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY
INSTITUTE OF TEXTIE AND FASHION
TECHNOLOGY
BSC RESEARCH TITLE: STUDY ON PILLING RESISTANCE AND
EXTENSIBILITY OF SINGLE JERSEY JACQUARD KNITTED
FABRIC MADE FROM DIFFERENT STICH LENGTH AND YARN
TYPE
Student Name: Id. No
Temesgen Wale 1014369
Abiyu Damtie 1106375
Elias Birhanu 1106482
BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY
JUNE 2023 G.C

2. CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
 Today, the production of high performance knitted goods has been expanded by
changing the fibers, yarns, and knitting parameters to create new fabric designs as
well as by the appropriate selection of post-knitting finishes to produce
multifunctional knitwear, e.g., sportswear, high-tech active-wear, casual-wear,
swimwear, outerwear, etc., with outstanding features, such as soft and smooth
handle, air permeability, strength etc.
 Plain knitting takes up about 90% of all knitted fabric consumption .The knitted
fabrics used for the production of underwear or any kind of next-to skin wear are
in contact with human skin, therefore it is especially important for them to
provide a sensation of comfort.

3.  Many researchers investigated that the influence of yarn count, yarn type, fabric
structure, loop length and other parameters on the over all properties of knitted
fabrics. Loop length and yarn type was the major factor which affects the
physical, mechanical and comfort properties of fabric.

4. Problem Statement
 Single jersey fabrics especially sweaters and T-shirts seen to have tangled fibers on
the surface of the fabrics that reduces the appearance of the garment is called pilling
effect and mostly these fabrics stretch in both directions i.e., widthwise and length
wise but it is not necessary to fit the desired application to satisfy the customer and to
improve service life of garment.
 Pilling and Extensibility are common problem in knitted fabrics that can significantly
affect their appearance and durability. Pilling is caused by the entanglement of fibers
on the surface of the fabric, which leads to the formation of small balls or pills.
 Extensibility is another important factor in the quality and performance of knitted
fabrics that affected by several factors, including the yarn type, stitch length, and knit
structure. Fabrics with higher extensibility are generally more comfortable to wear
and provide a better fit.
 The study on pilling resistance and extensibility of single jersey jacquard knitted
fabric made from different yarn type at constant stitch length and different loop length
on each yarn type effect is the main concern of this research.

5. Objective
General objective
 Study on pilling resistance and extensibility of single jersey jacquard knitted
fabric made from different loop length and yarn type
Specific objectives
 Study on pilling resistance of single jersey plain fabric
 Study on extensibility (stretch and recovery) of a single jersey
 Study on abrasion resistance of single jersey plain fabric
 Study on air permeability of single jersey plain fabric
 Identify in which loop length of the fabric has better pilling resistance and
extensibility obtained.

6. Scope of the Study
 The scope of this research is to test the pilling resistance, air permeability,
abrasion resistance and extensibility of single jersey fabrics by producing
sample with different loop length and study its effect on these properties.
Finally, we recommend producers and customers or end users of this fabric.

7.  The dimensional and some physical properties of plain knitted fabrics made
from 50/50 bamboo/cotton blended yarns are investigated. In order to see the
differences and similarities, the results are then compared with those for
similar fabrics knitted from 50/50 conventional viscose/cotton and 50/50
modal/cotton blended yarns. Each fabric type was produced with three
different stitch lengths. (Demiroz Gun, 2008)
 A study by (Nergiz and Özdil ,2014) found that using a blend of 50% cotton
and 50% polyester yarn produced single jersey jacquard knitted fabric with
good pilling resistance and extensibility (Hoque, 2022)
Literature review

8. Literature Gap
 In previous studies pilling resistance, extensibility and air permeability properties
of fabric raw material and loop length were investigated separately.
 In our research we will take the sample from each fabric type that have different
stitch length at the same fabric and different yarn type at constant loop length in
100% polyester, 60/40 pc and 20/80 pc knitted fabric to analysis those all
property. Therefore the combined effect of the factors cannot be determined.
 In this study the effect of three raw materials with three different loop lengths on
extensibility, air permeability and pilling resistance were evaluated and
compared.

9. CHAPTER THREE
METHDOLOGY
Material and Equipment
Parameters Details
Machine diameter (cm) 30
Feeding system storage
Number of feeders 72
Machine gauge 36
Needle type Latch
Single jersey Circular jacquard
knitting machine
Machine parameters

10. Parameter cotton polyester
Yarn type Ring spun yarn Ring spun yarn
Tenacity (cN/tex) 2.694 3.452
Linear density (Tex) 19 19
Twist per meter (TPM) 974.5 Filament
Uniformity (%) 12.80 1.76
Fiber type cotton polyester
elongation 14.68 42.61

11. Fabric properties Standard Test Method
Thickness ASTM D1777- 96
Pilling resistance ISO12747part 4
GSM ISO 33071
Abrasion resistant ISO12747part 4
Extensibility ASTM D2594- 2004
Air permeability ES ISO9237-2000
Digital GSM tester Piling and abrasion
resistance tester
Air permeability
tester
Digital thickness
tester
Electrical extensibility
tester

12. Research Method

13. Determination of yarn type
 The fiber composition of the fabric can significantly impact on the pilling
resistance and extensibility of knitted fabric. Natural fibers such as cotton and
wool tend to produce fabrics with better pilling resistance compared to synthetic
fibers such as polyester. However, synthetic fibers may produce fabrics with
better extensibility compared to natural fibers.
 Cotton and polyester are two of the most dominant fibers in the textile world.
Cotton is a natural fiber coming from the seedpod of the cotton plant and has been
in existence for thousands of years.
 Some say the best of both worlds is a blend of 50 percent cotton and 50 percent
polyesters have the softness of cotton with the increased durability of polyester.
 In our test we take bending ratio of cotton and polyester as follow; 60/40 pc,
20/80 pc and 100 % polyester fabric record data and analysis which possess best
extensibility and pilling tendency.

14.  Fabric structures produced Single jersey is the lightest weight of all the jersey
fabrics and the most widely available. This material has a lot of stretch and the
edges often roll when it is cut which can make it difficult to handle when
cutting and sewing.
 Due to its weight, this material is suitable for both summer and winter wear.
Single jersey is suitable for making t-shirts, baby clothing such as baby grows,
children's leggings and so on because of They are soft and breathable.
.
 Another advantage over woven clothes is that jersey knits are stretchy. Knit is
very accommodative of constant body movements and growth spurts.
Fabric structures produced

15. Single jersey jacquard knitting structure used
in Terrot machine

16. Procedures to Determine Stitch Length
Fabric sample preparation
By selecting the fabric that have 100% polyester, 20/80 pc and 60/40 pc fabric
samples were dried in relaxed condition & then processed that includes
conditioning of the fabrics at 65% relative humidity & 30°C ± 2°C but my sample
spread freely in table for 24 hour only. After relaxation, the following tests were
carried out; five individual readings were taken and averaged for each fabric
property. The samples were tested for CPI, WPI, extensibility, abrasion resistance,
pilling resistance, thickness and GSM.

17. Determination of WPI, CPI, Stitch density and loop shape factor
Parameter 100% polyester 20/80 pc 60/40 pc
CPI 35 40 34
WPI 52 46 50
Stitch density
per inch
1820 1840 1700
Loop shape
factor
0.67 0.87 0.68

18. Determination of Fabric Weight (GSM)
Parameters 100% polyester 20/80/ pc 60/40 pc
Average
GSM
81.99 179.83 122.53

19. Determination of Fabric Thickness
sample 100%
polyester
20/80
pc
60/40 pc
Average Fabric
Thickness (mm)
0.406 0.602 0.476

20. Procedures to Determine Pilling Resistance
Sample 100% polyester 20/80 60/40
1
2
3
4-5
5
4-5
1-2
1-2
1-2
2-3
3
2-3
Average slight pilling sever pilling moderate pilling

21. Determination of Abrasion resistance
Sample 100% polyester 20/80 PC 60/40 PC
5,5,5 1,1-2,1 2-3,3,2-3
Average No abrasion Sever abrasion. moderate abrasion

22. Steps to Determine Stretch Recovery
Sample Average extensibility (%) Average recovery (%)
100% polyester 77.85
38.87
60/40 PC 39.73 21.09
20/80 PC 28.93 18.95
Steps to Determine Air permeability
Sample Average Air permeability
(cm3/cm2/s)
100% polyester 243.6
60/40 pc 191.8
20/80 pc 162.9