Tailors - an overview, origin, their food habits, problems and suggestions

1. MERU / DARZI / TAILORS – AN OVERVIEW
Dr. Kuntamalla Sujatha (Asst Prof)
Sericulture Unit, University College, Kakatiya University,
Warangal, Telangana, India
In 13th century a person who makes, repairs, alters clothing professionally is called a
tailor. But in the 20th century it refers to makers of men’s and women’s suits, trousers. Another
definition of a tailor is a person stitching clothes to meet an individual needs and preferences as
ordered by customers with his sewing machine, while the customers would eagerly look forward
for the delivery of their clothes. It is a general term for people who make their living by stitching,
writing of stitching, teaching about it and also supply the retail sewing materials. A tailor may
work out of his house or a retail shop on part time or full time basis.
The History of Tailoring around the World
Between the 12th and 14th centuries in Europe tailoring developed slowly, the two aspects
of this profession was cutting and sewing of clothes. The oxford English dictionary’s first
reference of the word “Tailor” goes back to 1297. In colonial America, tailoring was the largest
trade until 20th century and cloth the single largest import. During the middle ages as a means of
concealing the body but in renaissance period, the loose robe which was worn was later cut,
pieced and sewed according to the fashion. This is a period of the birth of tailoring resulting in
cutler and tailors who were important members of the tailoring community. As days passed by,
master tailors gradually over shadowed weavers and eventually became responsible for the
clothes. In 17th century 1st it was Italy, then Spain which became fashionable centers which was
influenced by power, wealth. In the middle of the 17th century men began to wear coat, vest and
breeches which were considered as modern dresses. Over two centuries later, war were fought
more for their costumes than their moral convictions. During the 18th century the costume of
both the landed gentry and newer mercantile class became progressively less gorgeous.
Firstly, the English in early decades of 19th century evolved a style of masculine clothing.
There was a subtle blending of landed gentle, sporting attire. In short during this period a tailor
developed a new aesthetic of dress which he improved and idealized and the modern was tailors
arts.
Tailor as a Surname
Tailor is a common surname in many languages Taylor (English), Couturier (French),
Croitoru (Romanian), Portnoy (Russian), Darzi (Hindi/Urdu), Alfaiate (Portuguese), Terzi
(Turkish). In the movie Meeting Venus (written and directed by Istvan Szabo) many of the
characters have the cognates (blood relatives) of the surname “Tailor” from different language.

2. Types of Tailors
1. Local Tailors: The tailor is met locally and the garments are produced locally. He has a
showroom were in he allows the clients to choose fabrics and based on posture and body
shapes and returns the garments after modifications. Ex: Hong Kong, London are the
most famous.
2. Distance Tailors: It involves ordering of a garment from other town where labour is
cheaper. Here customers takes him own measurements, selection is made from a photo
and for further alterations the garments are shipped. Today the most common platform
for distance tailoring is via online tailors. First a free test suit is made, wherein this test
suit can be tried and worn to see any adjustments.
3. Travelling Tailors: Here a more personal service is given to the customer. He see the
fabric sample, meet the tailor in person. Travelling tailors travel between cities and
station in luxury hotel and provides services as is provided by local store. In the hotel, the
customers select the fabric from the samples and tailors himself takes the measurements
and ships the order to the customer within 3-4 weeks. Ex: Most travelling tailors are from
Hong Kong, travel to U.S.A, U.K, France, Australia and Japan.
4. Rodeo Tailors: Creator of the flamboyant costumes characterized by hand embroidery
stones, pearls, snaps.
5. Custom Tailors: Makes custom garments to meet an individual customers needs.
6. Custom Dressmakers: Specialize in women’s custom apparel which include day
dresses, evening, bridal wear.
7. Cutters: He measures the client, advice them on style and commissions craftsman to sew
suit.
8. Designers: They give sketch, combination of lines, color and texture for the customers,
they work with people who knows how to sew. Now a days it is gaining popularity.
9. Pattern Makers: Drafts the shapes and sizes of the garments by hand, uses paper,
computer using AutoCAD based software. The resulted pattern must comprise design,
colour and fit the intended wearer.
Origin of Darzi
Darzi/Darji are a community of people whose profession is tailoring. It is derived from
Persian word Darzan meaning to sew or darz means seam, while tailoring means “The art of
cutting” in many languages. The tailors skill lies in taking the measurements of the customer’s
body, making a pattern as desired and determine how well it fits the person. Tailors makes
clothes like shirts, stocking, hats, coats, breeches, stays, gowns, blouses for men and women.
In 1675 tailoring trade originally included mantua and tailors while the former require the
skill of draping the later made flat patterns.

3. Tailors importance in proper posture promotion
In 1775 tailors made “Stays” boned body supports taken from the roof of whales mouth
which helped to perfect the posture which were worn by children up to three to four years old.
The stays allowed a broad, open rib cage for proper breathing, helped English children in
standing, sitting and moving properly. Richard Campbell, the London tradesman in 1747 said
stays ‘bestow a good shape where nature has not designed it’.
Clothing for rich or poor
Till 20th century a tailor ran the show from wealthy to the field slaves with middle class
in between with difference in fabric and construction quality. In 1774 Williamsburg there were
two merchant tailors by name Prosser and Nicholson from whom customers selected their own
fabric and got it stitched.
Tailors in India
The community of tailors are Darzi or Darji or Meru or Tailors which is derived from the
persion word darzan means to sew or seam who’s main occupation is tailoring. They are
creative, hardworking and below poverty people who use their skills for making both ends meet.
Origin
Darzi have various synonyms/legends which vary according to the states where the class
resides. Muslim Darji or idrisi or khayyat of Uttar Pradesh have traced their origin to Hazrat Idris
who they believe to be their real techer from whom their fore fathers lrarned the art of tailoring.
While in Rajasthan, Darzi trace their descent from heroes like Peepaji and Namdeo. According to
the legend narrated by Russel and Hiralal, when Parasurama was destroying he Rajputs, two
brothers Chippi and Shimpi who hid in the temple were protected by the priest where former was
asked to sew dresses for the idol while the latter (shimpi) dyed and printed them.
Darzi of southern Karnataka are referred as Bhavsar kshatriya, chippi, Namdev, simpi
with surnames like pissie, wade, kakade and sanyasi. In Orissa, they are known as Maharanna,
Mahapatra who also carry their caste names as surnames. They are distributes across the states of
Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra, Bihar, Orissa, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Karnataka and Northern
states.
Clans of Darzi
In Rajasthan there are two endogamous divisions namely Peepavanshi and
Namdeovanshi. Namdeovanshi are further subdivided into Tak which has seven clans – Mathiya,
Ruselwat, Gosaliya, Utwan, Jadav, Mangla and Ragi while four chan have been identified among
gole (Bhati, gahlot, Solanki and paripeer).

4. Under peepavanshi it has nine clans namely Panwar, Solanki, Parmar, Daiya, Chauhan,
Goyel, Parihar, Tak and Rakercha.
Languages of Tailors
Mother tongue of Darzi differs from state to state. Language of Urdu and Perso-Arabic
are used by Uttar Pradesh, Marwari is spoken in Madhya Pradesh on other hand, Marathi,
Kannada and Oriya were spoken in Maharashtra, Karnataka and Orissa states respectively.
Lives of Tailors
A Hindi proverb runs like ‘Darzi ka put jab tak jita tab tak sita’ means ‘the tailors boy
will sew as long as he lives’, states the pathetic condition of Darji in India. Rajasthani tailors
makes Jodhpur coats and riding pants while women are experts in embroidery.
But nowadays, the children of these Darzi are reluctant to take up their family profession
but to choose to work in Government or private services while agriculture and daily wage
labours are their subsidiary occupations.
Even in education institution their enrollment as students is not upto mark when
compared with other backward classes (10-12% only).
Gone are the days when people would eagerly look forward for a tailor, but now in
general, tailors are struggling to make both ends meet.
If the girls going to school is taken into consideration the percentage is very less, the drop
outs is increasing after intermediate.
Food habits
Except in Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh states Darzi are non vegetarians abstain from
eating beef. Wheat, rice, millets, pulses are their staple food. Alcoholic drinks are consumed
during festivals.
Customs
Darzi are monogamous, practice adult marriages where alliances are negotiated by family
elders and the practice of dowry by the brides parents is also prevent today. Mass marriages,
remarriage of widowers, widows and divorcees are also practiced. Among the muslin darzi of
U.P marriage with cousin is prevalent but a widow is prohibited from re marriage during iddat.
Among these classes daughter do not have the right to inherit even a small share of parental
property.

5. Their Associations
Regional community associations like Bhavasar Kshatriya Association in Karnataka and the
Namdev Vikas Parishad in Madhya Pradesh are working for the improvement of the community.
What are their beliefs
Darzi are mostly Hindus. They worship Vishnu, Shiva, Shakti, Kali, Durga, Chandi
Bhavani. Hindu darzi begin his day in the morning with prayer to his/her tools of trade (scissors,
needles and sewing machines). Hindu darzi celebrate festivals like Holi, Diwali, Janmashtami.
They cremate their dead and immerse the ashes in rivers which is performed b the eldest son.
The rituals connected with birth, marriage and death of darji are conducted by Brahmin priests.
Trying times for tailors in present scenario
Gone are the hay days for a darzi sitting behind a sewing machine eagerly looking
forward for customers. Except for a few, majority of them are struggling to make both ends
meet. This is due to the massive competition from ready made garments, rising costs and
shrinking margins. The children of darzi are quitting their family profession and looking for
other professions. Except for big festivals and wedding days darzi’s patronage from the
customers is declining day by day. While few others are adapting to fast changing taste of
customers.
Tailors blame their pathetic condition due to rise in prices of raw materials, machine and
salaries. As for the customers they claim that the stitching charges are steeply raising thus and
switching the tailor between their passion on one side and need for better livelihood on other
side. However, the sartorial elegance of darzi profession is better for the well established tailor
while the small timers are vanishing due to flood of readymade garments which is giving tough
time to make a decent living. The tailoring is not looking lucrative from grooming as other
opportunities are offering more remuneration with less labour. To improve the situation, to look
into the problems of the tailors, societies are being formed and “Tailor’s Day” is being organized
in commemoration of the birth anniversary of sewing machine inventor.
Survey
The present study was aimed to access the social economic background, age wise
distribution, their years of experiences, how readymade garment has hindered the livelihood of
draji community. Thus a total of 100 tailors were selected for collecting the required information
for our study. This was done to ascertain various aspects of tailors. Some aspects which were not
is questionnaire by based on interview and observation method. The selected villages are
Devannapet, Jammikunta, Orukonda, Arepally, Thorrur, Darmavaram, Hanamkonda of
Warangal district of Telangana region. They constitute of BC community.

6. Objective of the study
To study the socio economic condition of these tailors. To study the age wise details
experiences. To identify the problems faced by small time tailors due to readymade garments.
Methodology
The study was conducted to analyze the condition faced by tailors (small tailors) due to
technological developments and emergence of corporate companies. The relevant data has been
collected purely on primary data collected by giving pretested questionnaire.
Profile of the study area
Next to Hyderabad, Warangal is one of the ten districts of Telangana. It served as seat of power
for Yadavas, Kakatiya, Qutubshahi dynasty and Nizam of Hyderabad.
Boundaries
The district lies between the latitude of 17-190 and 18-360 North and longitude of 78-400 and
80-490 East and is above 870-1700 ft msl. It is bounded by Karimnagar on North, Medak on
West, Nalgonda on South and Khammam on East and south east. Well established like Kakatiya
University, NIT, KMC, ITI, SDLCE are present in the district.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Table – 1 Age wise distribution in tailoring
Age group No. of persons Percent
Upto 30 years 0 0
31 to 40 years 25 25%
41 to 45 years 40 40%
Above 45
years
35 35%
Total 100 100
Table – 2 literacy particulars of tailor communities
Educational Level No. of persons Percentage
Illiterates 46 46%
Primary 12 12%

7. Secondary 14 14%
Above secondary 28 28%
Total 100 100
Table – 3 Tailors Experiences
Experiences No. of persons Percentage
5 – 10 years 20 20%
10 – 20 years 45 45%
20 – 30 years 25 25%
Above 30 years 10 10%
Total 100 100
Table – 4 Annual family income
Income (Rs) No of persons Percentage
Below 30,000 0 0
31,000 – 40,000 25 25%
41,000 – 80,000 65 65%
80,000 above 10 10%
Total 100 100
From table 1 it is observed that grooming children of the tailors didn’t follow their parent
profession as it was not giving good remuneration and was very laborious. 25% belonging to the
age group 31 – 40 choose this profession while about 40% were in the age group of 41 -45 years
and remaining 35% were above 45 years.
Table 2. It is observed that 46% are illiterate as they have no option, hence into this
profession. While 12% had primary education, secondary was 14 and 28%. Here we can observe
that those who had no other source of employment continued into their parental profession which
was established by their ancestors and their influence.
Table 3 indicated that the tailoring experiences of the respondent 20% had 20 years
experiences. 10 years, 25 years and 45 years was the experience of persons in age group of above
30 years, 20-30 years and 10-20 years experience respectively.

8. Table 4 shows the family income particulars of the tailors. Majority of the tailors below
to income group of 41,000 to 80,000 while minimum belong to below 30,000 income group.
This shows that if the tailor is well established and experienced the profession is fetching
but for the rest it is very difficult for ends to meet. It is also seen that persons belonging to other
classes (20%) are taking up tailoring as a profession, from the data collected almost all tailors
agree that readymade industry has affected small tailor shop owner and individuals due to
technological development and emergence of corporate companies.
Suggestions
The present study provides the present scenario of the tailors/Darzi. Allocation of more
finance funds and extension of welfare schemes such as housing and health facilities are need of
the hour.
Conclusions
The present study concludes that unfold suffering and hardships are being faced by small
time traditional tailors who belong to the chippolu or Meru community of Backward classes who
play a significant and crucial role during wedding and festivals and day might come when the
very existence of this profession would be threatening due to readymade garments flooding the
markets.
OBC
Other Backward class include members of lower caste who were grouped under three
may or heading social educational and economic according to Moindal Commision (1979).
Social classes are socially backward, those who depend on manual labour for livelihood and
where partition of female in work is 2%.
Education
Caste/classes who children under age group of 5-15 years who not attend school, where
drop out is 25% above state average.
Economic
Caste/Classes those average value of family assets, average who live in kuccha houses is 25%
below the state average.
One such caste is tailor/Meru or Darji who come under B.C (D) serial no. 5.

9. REFERENCES
1. St James style: cad and Dandy’s London cut/Men’s style and life style Blog stjames-
style.blogspot.com 2010-05-06 Restricted 2014-02-02
2. Deckert, Barbara: sewing for plus sizes: Design, fet and construction for Ample Apparel,
taunton, 1999.
3. The butcher and Tailor’s wife.
4. History.org; the colonial Williamsburg Foundation’s official History and citizenship.
5. Books on the decorative arts.
6. Books: what clothes reveal
7. Books “costume close ups clothing construction and pattern 1750-1790
8. Eighteenth century clothing at Williamsburg
9. Colonial Ladies clothing
10. Colonial gentlemen’s clothing
11. Hans India 28th February Trying times for tailor’s 2015.
12. The Hindu News paper Feb 27 2015 edition
SUGGESTIONS
1. Assigning of tailoring works belonging to different departments to members of their
community.
2. Imparting training to upgrade tailoring skills.
3. Highlight the plight of factors and stress the urgent need on the Government’s part to
extend financial aid to the needy and deserving tailor.
4. Promote skill development in fashion designing according to meet the challenges with the
advent of readymade dresses.
5. Lastly re-categorizing them among the OBC.