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PORTFOLIO
Leena Motiramani Fashion Technology
1st Year Diploma Programe
Project Report on
Women's Western Wear
Submitted to
Dezyne E’cole College
Towards the Partial Fulfillment for
Award of Diploma in Fashion Technology
As Technical Knowledge Development to
Women’s Wear
Included With Diploma Program Of
Fashion Technology
By
LEENA MOTIRAMANI
Dezyne E’cole College Ajmer
Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer
Tel. no.0145 2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
2014-2015
Dezyne E’cole College
Civil Lines, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com
The Project of Ms. Leena Motiramani has been Checked &
has been graded as
Thank you
Principal
(Seal &Signature)
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of tremendous
value and enabled me to complete this project successfully
I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’cole who gave me an
opportunity to shoe my abilities by working on this project on the esteem
organization
LEENA MOTIRAMANI
Diploma in Fashion Technology
1. Fashion as a Person’s Image
2. Fashion Industry
3. Learning Experience
4. Foundation Design
5. Corel Draw
6. Fashion illustration
7. Pattern Engineering
8. Measurement techniques
9. Draping
10.Fabric Manipulation
11.Element and Principle of Design
12.Trible Art
CONTENT
Fashion is a more then wearing good clothes it is about presenting a
person’s image in Society , we generally see people accepting fashion
due to pee pressure, Image in the society and when a person wants a
change to brighten his life. There are many reasons behind what we
wear.
• Protection from cold ,rain and snow :- Mountain climbers wear high –
tech outwear to avoid frostbite and over – exposure.
• Physical attention :- Many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.
• Emotions :- we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re
upset.
• Religious expression :- Orthodox Jewish men wear long part of their
body except their eyes.
• Identification and tradition :- Judges wear robes ,people in the military
wear uniform, brides wear long white dresses.
Fashion as a Person’s Image
Fashion Industry
Within the sphere of Technology Industries , design technology is
perhaps the fastest growing today. with new technologies emerging
rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and more job
opportunities are up for the taking .It is estimated that India will have a
shortfall of five lakh people in the design sector by 2010-11 but not all
gradates will be employable .Thus bringing the gap between talent and
the skills required by the industry is important. only Today, one in every
four designers is employable and only 10% of the design graduates
manage to get employment in the design industry. Hence the student
should understand the basic requirement of the industry and exhibit that
ability .
This is what I learn here at Dezyne E’cole college creating fashion
doesn’t entail a vivid imagination and instinct for creativity. It also
involve many decisions and myriad techniques , focus on a central
idea. Dezyne E’cole Fashion design made me build a strong
foundation in terms of design sence, Conceptualisation
independent research ,creative application and artistic experience
Learning Experience
9
As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through formal
education in Diploma programme in build with this study. During
the course duration of diploma programme I had an exposure
towards practical working in fashion design.
v
FOUNDATION DESIGN
COLOUR INPACT IN DESIGN
Colour is a most vital tool in the hands of fashion designer. It is the
most perceptible and hence is a central to success and failure of a
designer scheme.it is therefore very important designer that a
designer has a full knowledge and understanding of its tool
Warm and cool colours
Variation in Cool Color Blue
Variation in Cool Color Yellow
Variation in Cool Color Red COLORS
e
Comparing Value of Colors
The Yellow is lighter
value then Red
The Blue color is Darker
value then Orange
The Green is lighter
value then Brown
The Dark Green is equal
in the value to the Brown
Compare the Blue and Red Rectangles to the Grey Rectangles or
either side of each color. Which Grey is equal in value to the color ?
It may be helpful to stand at a distance and blur your eyes. If the
edge between the two area disappears, the values are equal.
COLORS
Simultaneous Contrast
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GRADATION
Corel Draw
ILLUSTRATION
16-Jun-15
16-Jun-15
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16-Jun-15
16-Jun-15
COLLARS
Bertha deep
neckline Bertha Tie
Bertha Buster Brown
Style
Bertha Knotted
Ends
Bertha Yoke style
Bertha - Braid Edge
Trim
Bellow Cargo
Cargo front
Kangaroo
Flap Shape Stitched
Patch Button Flap
POCKETS
Layered Sleeve Layered Sleeve Tulip Sleeve
Bushirt
Sleeve
Puff Sleeve
SLEEVES
PATTERN ENGINEERING
The Flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat
surface from measurements ,using the ruler and curve and straight
Edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring
devices to create a toil pattern on dummy.
Measuring Tape Seam Ripper Scissor
Drafting Scale Tailoring Chalk French curve
Tools & Equipment
Pattern Making Symbols
Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on
pattern :-
Pattern Making Symbols
Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on
pattern :-
Pattern Making Symbols
Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on
pattern :-
Notches
Notches :-
 Seam allowance
 Centre Lines
 Ease & Gather
control
 Dart Legs
 Identification of
front & back
 Identification of
Joining Part
 Zipper placement
 Facing
 Hemline
 Waistline
 Shoulder Tip
 Sleeve Cap
Jog Seam :-
A jog seam is used to indicate a
change in the seam allowance.
Punch / Circle ;-
 Dart intake
 Corners
 Buttons/
buttonholes
 Trimming
¼ inch:
 All faced
areas
 Narrow
spacing
 Extreme
curve
 Sleeveless
armhole¼ inch:
• Side seam
• Waist Line
• Styline
1 inch :
 Shoulder
2 inch :
• Straight
hemline
LANDMARKS
Number refers to both front & back
wherever indicated :-
1. Center Front Neck
Center Back Neck
1. Center Front Waist Center
Back Waist
2. Bust Point
3. Center Bus Level
4. Center Front [Princess line]
Center Back [Princess line
5. Mid Armhole front Mid
Armhole Back
6. Shoulder Tip
7. Shoulder at Neck
8. Armhole Ridged or Roll Line
9. Plate Screw
10.Armhole Plate
Measurements
The flat- pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on the
flat surface measurement . Under garment construction we learn
about the measuring techniques on the dress form. That can be
seen here:-
Different ways to taking measurements:-
• Circumference measurements
• Horizontal measurements
• Vertical measurements
Circumference Measurments
Circumference Measurements
SIZE = 34
Round Waist
measurement
Round Abdomen
measurement
Round Bust
measurement
Vertical Measurements
SIZE = 34
Front length
Measurement
Shoulder Slope
Measurement
Full length
Measurement
Circumference Measurements
Horizontal Measurements
SIZE = 34
Across shoulder
Measurement
Across Chest
Measurement
Abdomen Arc
Measurement
Horizontal Measurements
Women’s Basic Bodies Block
Women’s Basic Sleeve Block
Saree Blouse
Kameez (kurta)
Belted kalidaar salwar
4 panel patticoat
6 panel patticoat
Churidaar Paijama
16-Jun-15
16-Jun-15
GARMENTS
Women’s Basic Bodies
Block
Night Suit
Chooli blouse
Simple blouse
Kameez (kurta)
Churidaar paijama
4 Panel Paticoat
6 Panel Petticoat
Simple Paijama
Haulter Neck Top
Dart Manipulation
Dart Manipulation is a slash spread and pivotal transfer making
technique to transfer dart excess to one location to another for
design variation .It is a beginning of pattern manipulation for
generating design patterns. It require both artistic and technical
skills to manage and control the pattern.
PRINCIPLE 1
 One Dart Series
 Two Dart Series
A Dart may be transfer to any
location around the pattern
outlines from the designated
pivotal point without affecting
the size or fit of the garment.
PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness
To increase garment to an amount
greater then that provided by the
dart excess of working pattern.
The length and the width within
the pattern’s outline must be
increased.
PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring
To fit the contour of the upper torso closer then the basic garment
the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension
of the body above, below and between the bust mounds and
shoulder blades.
62
Fashion Designing runs the garment from eveningwear to
sportswear, Women’s wear to Men’s wear and Kids wear to
knitwear. Garment Construction is popularly called Pattern
Engineering has a great importance in fashion design industry.
The Companies like van heuson,dockers levis, adidas etc. are
the providers of perfect fit and this is what we learn at Dezyne
E’cole through the art of pattern making.
A slop pattern [ home sewing ] and block pattern [ industrial
production ] is custom – fitted basic pattern from which pattern
for many different styles can be developed.
The Draping method involves creating a Maslin mock up by
pinning fabric directly on a form then transferring the muslin
outline and makings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin
as the pattern it self.
The flat pattern Draping method is the most commonly used
method in Menswear.
Garment Contruction
DRAPING
French Dart
Front view
Side View
Back view
Single Dart Series
Mid Shoulder Dart
Single Dart Series
Front view
Side view
Side view
Single Dart Series
Mid Armhole Dart
Front View
Side View
Back View
Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart
Single Dart Series
Front View
Side View
Back View
Mid Armhole and Waist Dart
Single Dart Series
Front View
Side View
Back View
Single Dart Series
Side and Waist Dart
Front View
Side View
Back View
TUCK DART
Front View
Side View
Back View
PLEAT DART
Front View
Side View
Back View
RADIATING DART
Neck Radiating Dart
Front View Back View
PARALLEL DART
Front View
Side View
Back View
PRINCESS DART
Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (waist)
Front View
Side View
Back View
PRINCESS PANEL
Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (torso)
Front View
Side View
Back View
PRINCESS PANEL
Mid Armhole Princess Panel (torso)
Front View
Side View
Back View
DART CLUSTER
Waist Dart Cluster
Front View
Side View
Back View
GATHERS
Gathers at Neck
Front View
Side View
Back View
GATHERS
Gathers at Princess Line
Front View
Side View
Back View
HAULTER NECK LINE
Front View
Side View
Back View
16-Jun-15
16-Jun-15
16-Jun-15
FEBRIC MANIPULATION
For any Fashion Designer fabric first needs to be
prepared with textures and then used for style and
design development. Style requires plain textures
and sometimes textured fabric to be create better
style. Presenting few best ideas of textures which I
learnt at my study of Fashion Design at Dezyne
E‟cole College.
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
FABRICMANIPULATION
TRIBLE ARTS OF ODISHA
ARTS OF ODISHA
The indian state of odisha has a rich culture and artistic
heritage. Due to the reign of many different rulers in the past,
arts and craft in odisha underwent many changes giving an
artistic diversity today in the form of traditional handicrafts,
Painting and craving ,dancing and music.
The official language of states, spocken by the majority of
the people is oriya.
Oriya belongs to the Indo-Aryan branch of the Indo-
European languge family,and closly related Bengali and
Assamese.
The capital city bhubhaneshwar is know for the exquisite
temples that dot its landscape.
Western-style dress has gained greater acceptance in
cities and town among men, although the people prefer to
wear traditional dresses like dhoti, kurta and ghamcha
during festival or other religious occasions.
Women normally prefer to wear the sari (Sambalpuri sarri
bomkai sarri,kataki sari) or the salwar kameez ; western
attire is becoming popular among yonger women in cities
and towns.Sixteenth century witeneesd the compilation of
literature on music.

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Leena Motiramani

  • 1. PORTFOLIO Leena Motiramani Fashion Technology 1st Year Diploma Programe
  • 2. Project Report on Women's Western Wear Submitted to Dezyne E’cole College Towards the Partial Fulfillment for Award of Diploma in Fashion Technology As Technical Knowledge Development to Women’s Wear Included With Diploma Program Of Fashion Technology By LEENA MOTIRAMANI Dezyne E’cole College Ajmer Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer Tel. no.0145 2624679 www.dezyneecole.com 2014-2015
  • 3. Dezyne E’cole College Civil Lines, Ajmer www.dezyneecole.com The Project of Ms. Leena Motiramani has been Checked & has been graded as Thank you Principal (Seal &Signature)
  • 4. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of tremendous value and enabled me to complete this project successfully I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’cole who gave me an opportunity to shoe my abilities by working on this project on the esteem organization LEENA MOTIRAMANI Diploma in Fashion Technology
  • 5. 1. Fashion as a Person’s Image 2. Fashion Industry 3. Learning Experience 4. Foundation Design 5. Corel Draw 6. Fashion illustration 7. Pattern Engineering 8. Measurement techniques 9. Draping 10.Fabric Manipulation 11.Element and Principle of Design 12.Trible Art CONTENT
  • 6. Fashion is a more then wearing good clothes it is about presenting a person’s image in Society , we generally see people accepting fashion due to pee pressure, Image in the society and when a person wants a change to brighten his life. There are many reasons behind what we wear. • Protection from cold ,rain and snow :- Mountain climbers wear high – tech outwear to avoid frostbite and over – exposure. • Physical attention :- Many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”. • Emotions :- we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re upset. • Religious expression :- Orthodox Jewish men wear long part of their body except their eyes. • Identification and tradition :- Judges wear robes ,people in the military wear uniform, brides wear long white dresses. Fashion as a Person’s Image
  • 7. Fashion Industry Within the sphere of Technology Industries , design technology is perhaps the fastest growing today. with new technologies emerging rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and more job opportunities are up for the taking .It is estimated that India will have a shortfall of five lakh people in the design sector by 2010-11 but not all gradates will be employable .Thus bringing the gap between talent and the skills required by the industry is important. only Today, one in every four designers is employable and only 10% of the design graduates manage to get employment in the design industry. Hence the student should understand the basic requirement of the industry and exhibit that ability .
  • 8. This is what I learn here at Dezyne E’cole college creating fashion doesn’t entail a vivid imagination and instinct for creativity. It also involve many decisions and myriad techniques , focus on a central idea. Dezyne E’cole Fashion design made me build a strong foundation in terms of design sence, Conceptualisation independent research ,creative application and artistic experience Learning Experience
  • 9. 9 As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through formal education in Diploma programme in build with this study. During the course duration of diploma programme I had an exposure towards practical working in fashion design.
  • 11. COLOUR INPACT IN DESIGN Colour is a most vital tool in the hands of fashion designer. It is the most perceptible and hence is a central to success and failure of a designer scheme.it is therefore very important designer that a designer has a full knowledge and understanding of its tool
  • 12. Warm and cool colours Variation in Cool Color Blue Variation in Cool Color Yellow Variation in Cool Color Red COLORS
  • 13. e Comparing Value of Colors The Yellow is lighter value then Red The Blue color is Darker value then Orange The Green is lighter value then Brown The Dark Green is equal in the value to the Brown Compare the Blue and Red Rectangles to the Grey Rectangles or either side of each color. Which Grey is equal in value to the color ? It may be helpful to stand at a distance and blur your eyes. If the edge between the two area disappears, the values are equal. COLORS
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  • 28. COLLARS Bertha deep neckline Bertha Tie Bertha Buster Brown Style Bertha Knotted Ends Bertha Yoke style Bertha - Braid Edge Trim
  • 29. Bellow Cargo Cargo front Kangaroo Flap Shape Stitched Patch Button Flap POCKETS
  • 30. Layered Sleeve Layered Sleeve Tulip Sleeve Bushirt Sleeve Puff Sleeve SLEEVES
  • 32. The Flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements ,using the ruler and curve and straight Edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring devices to create a toil pattern on dummy. Measuring Tape Seam Ripper Scissor Drafting Scale Tailoring Chalk French curve Tools & Equipment
  • 33. Pattern Making Symbols Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on pattern :-
  • 34. Pattern Making Symbols Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on pattern :-
  • 35. Pattern Making Symbols Various signs & symbol of Pattern Making Which I Generally use on pattern :-
  • 36. Notches Notches :-  Seam allowance  Centre Lines  Ease & Gather control  Dart Legs  Identification of front & back  Identification of Joining Part  Zipper placement  Facing  Hemline  Waistline  Shoulder Tip  Sleeve Cap Jog Seam :- A jog seam is used to indicate a change in the seam allowance. Punch / Circle ;-  Dart intake  Corners  Buttons/ buttonholes  Trimming ¼ inch:  All faced areas  Narrow spacing  Extreme curve  Sleeveless armhole¼ inch: • Side seam • Waist Line • Styline 1 inch :  Shoulder 2 inch : • Straight hemline
  • 37. LANDMARKS Number refers to both front & back wherever indicated :- 1. Center Front Neck Center Back Neck 1. Center Front Waist Center Back Waist 2. Bust Point 3. Center Bus Level 4. Center Front [Princess line] Center Back [Princess line 5. Mid Armhole front Mid Armhole Back 6. Shoulder Tip 7. Shoulder at Neck 8. Armhole Ridged or Roll Line 9. Plate Screw 10.Armhole Plate
  • 38. Measurements The flat- pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on the flat surface measurement . Under garment construction we learn about the measuring techniques on the dress form. That can be seen here:- Different ways to taking measurements:- • Circumference measurements • Horizontal measurements • Vertical measurements
  • 40. Circumference Measurements SIZE = 34 Round Waist measurement Round Abdomen measurement Round Bust measurement
  • 42. SIZE = 34 Front length Measurement Shoulder Slope Measurement Full length Measurement Circumference Measurements
  • 44. SIZE = 34 Across shoulder Measurement Across Chest Measurement Abdomen Arc Measurement Horizontal Measurements
  • 59. 4 Panel Paticoat 6 Panel Petticoat
  • 61. Dart Manipulation Dart Manipulation is a slash spread and pivotal transfer making technique to transfer dart excess to one location to another for design variation .It is a beginning of pattern manipulation for generating design patterns. It require both artistic and technical skills to manage and control the pattern. PRINCIPLE 1  One Dart Series  Two Dart Series A Dart may be transfer to any location around the pattern outlines from the designated pivotal point without affecting the size or fit of the garment. PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness To increase garment to an amount greater then that provided by the dart excess of working pattern. The length and the width within the pattern’s outline must be increased. PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring To fit the contour of the upper torso closer then the basic garment the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of the body above, below and between the bust mounds and shoulder blades.
  • 62. 62 Fashion Designing runs the garment from eveningwear to sportswear, Women’s wear to Men’s wear and Kids wear to knitwear. Garment Construction is popularly called Pattern Engineering has a great importance in fashion design industry. The Companies like van heuson,dockers levis, adidas etc. are the providers of perfect fit and this is what we learn at Dezyne E’cole through the art of pattern making. A slop pattern [ home sewing ] and block pattern [ industrial production ] is custom – fitted basic pattern from which pattern for many different styles can be developed. The Draping method involves creating a Maslin mock up by pinning fabric directly on a form then transferring the muslin outline and makings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern it self. The flat pattern Draping method is the most commonly used method in Menswear. Garment Contruction
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  • 67. French Dart Front view Side View Back view Single Dart Series
  • 68. Mid Shoulder Dart Single Dart Series Front view Side view Side view
  • 69. Single Dart Series Mid Armhole Dart Front View Side View Back View
  • 70. Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart Single Dart Series Front View Side View Back View
  • 71. Mid Armhole and Waist Dart Single Dart Series Front View Side View Back View
  • 72. Single Dart Series Side and Waist Dart Front View Side View Back View
  • 73. TUCK DART Front View Side View Back View
  • 74. PLEAT DART Front View Side View Back View
  • 75. RADIATING DART Neck Radiating Dart Front View Back View
  • 77. PRINCESS DART Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (waist) Front View Side View Back View
  • 78. PRINCESS PANEL Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (torso) Front View Side View Back View
  • 79. PRINCESS PANEL Mid Armhole Princess Panel (torso) Front View Side View Back View
  • 80. DART CLUSTER Waist Dart Cluster Front View Side View Back View
  • 81. GATHERS Gathers at Neck Front View Side View Back View
  • 82. GATHERS Gathers at Princess Line Front View Side View Back View
  • 83. HAULTER NECK LINE Front View Side View Back View
  • 88. For any Fashion Designer fabric first needs to be prepared with textures and then used for style and design development. Style requires plain textures and sometimes textured fabric to be create better style. Presenting few best ideas of textures which I learnt at my study of Fashion Design at Dezyne E‟cole College.
  • 99. TRIBLE ARTS OF ODISHA
  • 100. ARTS OF ODISHA The indian state of odisha has a rich culture and artistic heritage. Due to the reign of many different rulers in the past, arts and craft in odisha underwent many changes giving an artistic diversity today in the form of traditional handicrafts, Painting and craving ,dancing and music.
  • 101.
  • 102. The official language of states, spocken by the majority of the people is oriya. Oriya belongs to the Indo-Aryan branch of the Indo- European languge family,and closly related Bengali and Assamese. The capital city bhubhaneshwar is know for the exquisite temples that dot its landscape.
  • 103. Western-style dress has gained greater acceptance in cities and town among men, although the people prefer to wear traditional dresses like dhoti, kurta and ghamcha during festival or other religious occasions. Women normally prefer to wear the sari (Sambalpuri sarri bomkai sarri,kataki sari) or the salwar kameez ; western attire is becoming popular among yonger women in cities and towns.Sixteenth century witeneesd the compilation of literature on music.