The document discusses different types of traditional jewellery from the Madhya Pradesh region of India, including lac jewellery, menakari jewellery, theva jewellery, and jadau jewellery. Lac jewellery originated in Rewa and Indore districts and features designs like chokers and earrings. Menakari jewellery involves setting precious stones and then enameling them. Theva jewellery involves fusing 23 karat gold onto glass. Jadau jewellery was introduced by Mughals and involves embedding stones in gold.

1. BY:TUSHAR GUPTA
11TH K

2. There is some specialty in this tribal
jewellery. Lac jewellery, which is very
famous and also favorite, is prominent
in Rewa District and Indore District.
The artisan used to make chokers,
bead chains, earrings, and hair
ornaments in the traditional designs.
All these ornaments have a golden
luster as well. Some of the other
important ornaments for married
women areMangalsutra and Hansuli.
These are actually the symbol of
married women. Hansuli is necklace
and is also used by unmarried women
also.

3. The artists of this region
normally design beautiful
gold and silver jewellery
studded with precious as
well as semi precious stones
and also pearls. These are
always coated with enamel
work making them more
beautiful. Some of the
special type of bangles they
made, which are of lac and
glass, is worn by all the
communities. The anklets,
which they used, are clove
shaped beads. These are
usually made of silver. .

4. One of the important tribe
of Madhya Pradesh is Bastar
District. The tribal folk of this
region are very fond of jewellery.
They usually make jewellery out of
grass, beads and cane. The
traditional ornaments are also very
popular at this place. These are
usually made of silver, wood, glass,
peacock feathers, copper and wild
flowers. These ornaments are very
popular as these have ethnic value
too. The bastar tribal women also
wear necklaces made out of one
rupee coin.
A wide variety of silver beads are
found all over Madhya Pradesh. In
filigree work these silver wires and
beads are used.

5. 1.LAC JEWELLRIES
2.MENAKARI JEWELLRIES
3.THEVA JEWELLRIES
4.JADAU JEWELLRIES

6. Lac jewelry, also known as lacquer
jewelry, originated in Rajasthan and has
gained considerable popularity in India
today. Lac jewelry is available in
versatile designs, which add to its
beauty. Among the various items in lac
jewelry, the bangles need a special
mention. Bangles made of Lac are of
bright color and glass work done on them
makes them more attractive. Rajasthani
people believe that lac bangles bring
good omen to those who wear them.
They are very popular in Rajasthan and
lately are being made in other parts of
country too.

7. This prominent craft of Rajasthan
was initially developed by tribal
people of the state. Once the
craft of tribal people, lacquer
jewelry is now rage of urban
India. The accessories made of lac
attract everyone for obvious
reasons. Some of the major
accessories included in lac
jewelry, like Bala, Bajuband,
Rakhi, Jod, Gajra, Gokhru,
Timaniyan, are extremely popular.
A good chunk of the jewelry is
exported to outside world, which
in turn provides more
employment and inspires
improvisation in design and
pattern of jewelry.

8. The process of making lac
jewelry is complex. Glass
beads, flower shaped mirrors
and decorative wire are also
used for the enhancement of
beauty of the jewelry. The
bangles of lac consist of an
inner-core that has a covering
of thin layer of superior quality
lac. Core lac, when mixed with
a material similar to white clay,
strengthens the bangle. The
heating, mixing, kneading, and
hammer pounding of the
parched ingredients takes place
repeatedly and dough like mass
is formed.

9. In Meenakari jewelry, precious stones are
set and then enameled with gold.
Historically speaking, the art was
introduced to Rajasthan artisans by Raja
Mansingh of Amer. He invited Lahore-
based skilled artisans to his kingdom, and
their intermingling with the locals
craftsmen resulted in an amalgam, which
came to be known as Meenakari.
Meenakari is also a team work, where
specialization of skill is of paramount
importance. As it is generally done on the
reverse side of kundan jewellery,
meenakar has to work with goldsmith,
engraver or ghaaria, designer or chitteria
as well as jadiya.

10. The art requires higher skill and
its intricacy calls for application
of technical mindset. In
Meenakari, the piece of metal
on which the work is to be
done, is fixed on a lac stick.
Designs of flowers, birds, fish
etc are engraved on it. This
leads to the creation of walls or
grooves, to hold color. Enamel
dust, of required color, is then
poured into the grooves and
each color is fired individually.
The heat of the furnace melts
the color and the colored liquid
gets spread equally into the
groove. This process is repeated
with each color.

11. The art requires higher skill and its
intricacy calls for application of technical
mindset. In Meenakari, the piece of
metal on which the work is to be done, is
fixed on a lac stick. Designs of flowers,
birds, fish etc are engraved on it. This
leads to the creation of walls or grooves,
to hold color. Enamel dust, of required
color, is then poured into the grooves and
each color is fired individually. The heat
of the furnace melts the color and the
colored liquid gets spread equally into
the groove. This process is repeated with
each color.

12. Subsequently, each color is individually
fired. Colors, which are most heat
resistant, are applied first, as they are
re-fired with each additional color. Once
the last color has been fired, the object
is cooled and burnished or polished with
agate. The depth of the grooves, filled
with different colors, determines the
play of light. Silver and gold are used for
the base of Meenakari. Choice of colors,
in case of silver, has to be green, yellow
or blue, as these are the colors which
stick with it. As for gold, all the colors
can be applied to it and this is also the
reason why the metal is preferred for
Meenakari jewellery.

13. Jadau Jewelry forms one of the
major examples of high skilled
craftsmanship that was brought into
India by Mughals. Historically
speaking, the tradition of Jadau
work has been in practice in the
states of Rajasthan and Gujarat
since the Mughal era. Jadau
jewellery is also called engraved
jewelry and is unique and a kind in
itself. Considered to be a
traditional jewelry of India, it is
used in many traditional and
auspicious occasions, like marriages
and festival celebrations.

14. Though the art was introduced by
in India Mughals, Indian craftsmen
made it popular by adding their
indigenous skills. In Jadau
jewelry, precious and semi
precious stones, gems, crystals
and beads are embedded in gold,
which is first melted a bit. When
the gold becomes pliable, the
stones are set on it with great
precision and artistry. After that,
it is allowed to cool down and the
stones and gems get fixed on it
without any adhesive or carvings.

15. Jadau work is team work, where
a group of craftsmen are
involved together. Each
craftsman carries out a specific
task related to the jewelry
creation. The chiterias make
the basic design, ghaarias are
responsible for engraving and
making holes, Meenakari or
enamelling is done by the
enameller and the goldsmith
takes care of the kundan or the
gold. These days, Jadau is done
on not just jewelry, but also
jewelry boxes and delicate
showpieces.

16. Uncut diamonds called polki
or vilandi are used as the
central stone. Meenakari or
art work done at the back of
the jewel is purely for
beautifying purposes.
Highest care and attention is
given towards the detail on
every piece that the master
craftsman creates. The stone
setters first set the stone in
silver foil, then fuse with a
finishing of pure gold.

17. ‘Thewa’ in local Rajasthani Dialect means
‘Setting’. Setting of Gold on Glass.
Thewa Art is 23 Karat Gold fused on glass
at around 1000 degree Celsius.
Melting Temp of Gold is 1063 and Silver is
961 degree Celsius.
The Art originated 400 Years back in
Rajasthan.
The artisans were first based in Deogarh
then they migrated to Pratabgarh ( in
1818 Pratapgarh passed under British
Rule) and then to Jaipur, the city of
colours.
The unique thing about this art is that
these single families of artisans train only
their sons. They don’t even train their
daughter so that the art may not go out
of their family. Only son to son transfer
of art is done.

18. The craft flourished, especially during
Victorian times when an important
western market had developed.
Many of these objects set in gold were
sold to British women living in or visiting
the country and were taken to Europe as
souvenirs. Some now find their way to
the British antique market, and the work
is recognized by European jewelry
historians for its distinction.
Still now also only few artisan families
are doing this work.
This is purely a handwork which involves
extra ordinary patience and
extraordinary skill.
You can put any one of our pieces under a
micros cope and instantly see that it’s
been made by hand-and not just by any
hand, but by the hand of an artist.” At
Jewel Ace each engraved piece is 100
percent hand-engraved from start to
finish, a process that can take several
hours, or several days, depending on the
size of the item.
In 2004 Government of India has issued a
postal stamp of five rupees to promote
this dying art.
Since 1966 Thewa artisans have been
getting National Awards. They received
10 awards till 2011.
Jewel Ace stands as prominent promoter
of this 400 year old unique art.
Justin Varkey, the CEO and Vice-
President have been honored with Rajiv
Gandhi Rashtriya Ekta Samman 2009 for
Promoting and reviving this unique dying
art.

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