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Jewellery Historian
13
®
INSIDETHISISSUE
2
SEPTEMBER 2015
INTRODUCING MASSIMO IZZO
33High-end jewelry inspired by the Mediterranean culture
COVER STORY ETHO MARIA
51Exquisite pieces of art, unique as the people who wear them
INTERVIEW INÉDIT
73An introduction to the creative world of INÉDIT
A NEW MUST ALEX SOLDIER
91Timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery
145SPOTLIGHT POMELLATO
A story of creativity, consistency and visionary research
REGULARS
EDITOR’S LETTER
Our editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue
ISSUE GLOBE
All the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance
NEWS
News from around the world
107
109
ESTHÈTE
123
The editor’s jewellery choice of the month
Jewellery for an important moment of life
OUR FAVES
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS BLUE SAPPHIRE
Eva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue
09
05
03
SPECIAL FAVES AURORA BOREALIS
We illuminate the new season with Northern lights 155
TIMEPIECES ULYSSE NARDIN
161Artemis Racing Partnership with commemorative marine diver
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
4
EDITOR’S LETTER
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
Life can be a hard pill to swallow. On a daily basis, we are consumed with regrets, failures
and insecurities that plague our minds and control our actions. Many times we are over-
whelmed by situations and things we wish we could change. We experience heartbreak,
loss and fear, along with betrayal, jealousy and bad memories.
Things we’ve lost in the past, whether it be a lover or a piece of jewelry, can be hard to let
go. However, the ghosts of things and people have no room in our present and will only
haunt us as long as we let them. We choose not to let the memory of things departed to
become part of our life any longer.
Change can come in many forms in our lives. It might come forcefully like a tidal wave, or
creep along incrementally like a glacier. It might come in the form of devastating tragedy,
difficult choices, broken relationships, or even new opportunities.
Many times, the only way to improve our lives is to force ourselves to undergo difficult
change. That might mean breaking up and leaving a stale – but comfortable – relationship,
leaving a mediocre – but stable – job, moving away from a nice – but uninspiring – loca-
tion, moving away from a person or anything else that’s holding us back from accomplish-
ing our dreams.
Of course, dealing with uninvited change in our lives is often difficult and painful. In many
cases, instigating major, but necessary, change in our life can be just as painful. Even
though change is often difficult, many times it’s also for the best. Accomplishing anything
great in life requires significant change that pushes us beyond our comfort zones.
Whatever change you’re dealing with, know that how you cope with that change will have
an impact on your future. Try to keep all positive things life gave you and continue your
path of life. It is essential to accept change and move forward. It is important to keep the
best of the past and as C.P Cavafy wrote : “And if you can’t shape your life the way you
want, at least try as much as you can, not to degrade it”.
This September issue, is dedicated to change, to any change we have to deal at some
moment in our life. This issue is dedicated to everything new, new collections, new de-
signs, new season.
I hope you will enjoy reading this issue, as much as we enjoyed creating it.
5
ISSUEGLOBE
In every issue, we introduce you to the most tal-
ented jewellery designers and people.
At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewel-
lery designers, brands and artists whose work is
exceptional and of the highest quality.  We value
creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to
challenge ourselves and others.
Discover the designers, brands & people that we
are honored to showcase in this issue.
ISSUE GLOBE
VOLODYMYRLESHCHENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ALEX SOLDIER
Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparal-
leled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemak-
ers, celebrities and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade
has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent
and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style
experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative
designer of our time.
Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and preci-
sion and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape,
color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer.
7
MASSIMO IZZO
The marvelous Sicilian heritage with its charm and history give
roots to Massimo’s creations. His collections evoke a magic world
of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest
Italian jewelry school.
Diamonds, raw aquamarines, morganites, lavander jade, moore
and orange corals mixed with white, rose and yellow gold, sand-
treated, hammered or polished by expert hands.
For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by cele-
brated customers around the world, royalty, film directors and art
galleries.
FRANK MARGUERON
For the interview of this issue, we meet Inédit Joaillier and its founder Frank Margueron in Rouen,
in France.
French jewellery-making is famous throughout the world, first and foremost because of the crea-
tivity of the country's jewellers, constantly in search of perfection. They use their time-honoured
expertise to transform a designer's dream into a perfect piece of jewellery.
At Inédit, pieces are unique, since they are crafted by exceptional artists.The jewellers, setter
and polisher have inherited their knowledge and skills from the French jewelry tradition.
Inédit perpetuates a unique know-how and keeps standards of French jewellery at the highest
possible levels by creating unique amazing pieces of jewellery.
ISSUE GLOBE
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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ISSUE GLOBE
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
PANAYIOTIS SIMOPOULOS
Panayiotis joined our team during summer as creative director-at-large. In his new
role, he will contribute to special projects and will serve as roving ambassador
with links to all creative areas of the magazine, in close collaboration with our
founder & editor-in-chief.
Successful and talented, he is the rarest kind of creative artist, one who creates
extraordinary images. With a unique creative vision, whilst maintaining a clear vi-
sion of delivering a message that speaks directly to the reader, he ultimately cre-
ates an exciting and balanced visual experience.
Together with many of the most talented young photographers, he’ll definitely de-
liver, the most memorable, exciting and unique images and fashion editorials that
the magazine has ever published.
ETHO MARIA
Etho Maria is the signature brand collection of a well estab-
lished international fine jewellery manufacturing company.
Marrying impeccable craftsmanship with superior design,
the Etho Maria fine jewellery line translates into exquisite,
wearable pieces of art that make a bold and lasting state-
ment.
The flexibility of the pieces, the application of rose and an-
tique cut in sapphires and the motion of the forms have be-
come the brands’ trademarks. ‘’Etho Maria’’ is famous for cre-
ating prestigious modern pieces that are handcrafted in the
company’s ateliers around the globe. That international expo-
sure is evident in the brands’ aesthetic, the design being in-
fluenced by a diverse range of cultures.
POMELLATO
In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewellery are recognized as icons.
Nudo by Pomellato is one of the few. This ring, created in 2001, has remained an
unmistakable classic over the years, as if it has existed forever.

Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution
in taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand.
Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jewellery scene, Pomel-
lato was founded in 1967 thanks to the intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. Heir
to a family of goldsmiths, Rabolini was the first to introduce the philosophy of
prêt-à-porter into the world of jewellery, attributing a strong distinctive identity to
the brand, thanks to which Pomellato soon became renowned on the Italian mar-
ket and in the rest of the world, becoming the fifth jewellery company in Europe
and one of the biggest players in the entire sector at international level.
NEWS
10
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
11
Design director Francesca Amfitheatrof
anticipates a brilliant fall with new inter-
pretations of Tiffany Victoria, Tiffany
Bow and Tiffany Infinity. In reimagining
these signature collections, she brings
out the strengths of each, sculpting
them in metals of harmonious colors
highlighted with diamonds, creating
jewelry that is as beautiful worn deli-
cately alone or in dazzling multiples.
“This is jewelry that can be worn day
and night,” Amfitheatrof says. “The de-
signs are fluid and elegant, working
together or on their own to create a
spectacular diamond look”
Introduced in 1998, Tiffany VictoriaTM,
a graphic floral pattern of marquise dia-
monds, is inspired by a diamond cor-
sage ornament that was a centerpiece
of Tiffany’s exhibit at the 1889 Paris
World’s Fair. The new collection
evolves with round and pear-shaped
diamonds. Matched for color and clar-
ity, the diamonds are set in platinum
pendants, bracelets and earrings that
radiate with the light and energy of the
brightest stars in the sky.
Tiffany Bow recalls the slender thread
one might tie around a finger to remem-
ber something—or someone—with
whom one shares a close bond. Eight-
een karat rose and white gold form
asymmetrical loops and off-center
knots on slender chokers, curvaceous
cuffs traced with diamonds and deli-
cate, sparkling rings.
Tiffany Infinity symbolizes the continu-
ous connection, energy and vitality of
an ancient symbol. Amfitheatrof goes
minimal with this balanced form, refin-
ing its contours in cuffs and rings of
sterling silver, as well as 18 karat gold
and diamonds with fluid modern style.
These Tiffany collections are available
at Tiffany & Co. stores worldwide.
Tiffany is the internationally renowned
jeweler founded in New York in 1837.
Through its subsidiaries, Tiffany & Co.
manufactures products and operates
TIFFANY & CO. retail stores worldwide,
and also engages in direct selling
through Internet, catalog and business
gift operations.
For additional information, please visit
www.tiffany.com
TIFFANY & CO.
Design Director Francesca Amfitheatrof
Imbues Jewelry with New and Unmistakable Style
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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PhotocourtesyofTIFFANY&CO.©TIFFANY&CO.
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
OUR NEWS
13
For the first time, Ulysse Nardin introduces a Classico
Collection timepiece with an in-house movement con-
ceived and developed exclusively by the manufacture.
Set within a classically designed timekeeper convey-
ing purity in form and effortless elegance, the UN-320
caliber boasts a silicium hairspring and anchor es-
capement for supreme accuracy. On the watch’s dial,
the hour, minutes, small seconds and date are at 6
o’clock – a stronghold of the Classico Collection’s ba-
sic design executions.
With the implementation of the movement in the new
Classico Manufacture timepiece, wearers can now eas-
ily set the date backwards and forwards, a function
offered largely by Ulysse Nardin; use the stop sec-
onds feature with a mere pulling of the crown; and rely
with confidence on the 48-hour power reserve.
Available in a striking sunray blue finish and a timeless
eggshell version, both held in a 40 mm gold case, this
latest addition to the Classico Collection shows that
tailored style always makes a statement.
Born in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1823, Ulysse Nardin
followed in the watchmaking footsteps of his father,
Léonard- Frédéric, apprenticing for him, and later,
working with precision timepiece expert William
DuBois. In 1846 in Le Locle, at the age of 23, Ulysse
Nardin founded the company that still bears his name.
He paved the company’s future with his pocket and
marine chronometers, setting the benchmark in both
civil and military realms. When he died in 1876, his
son, Paul-David, took control.
Ulysse Nardin grew steadily in success and renown
and was crowned by more than 4,300 watchmaking
awards, including 18 gold medals. Despite its vast
achievements, the firm fell victim to the quartz crisis in
1983 and was put up for sale. Yet, this setback transi-
tioned into something remarkable: a creator of high
horology that would propel its own renaissance and
become revered, once again, for its revolutionary de-
velopments.
Convinced the imaginative firm could become a mar-
ket leader, Rolf W. Schnyder purchased the company.
It was Schnyder meeting with watchmaking genius Dr.
Ludwig Oechslin that sparked the turning point for
Ulysse Nardin, resulting in the development of many
milestones in the watch industry. Innovation remains
embedded in the Ulysse Nardin culture, often ex-
pressed through breakthrough achievements and the
proactive use of new materials, like Silicium.
Its many models, including its most iconic works, are
housed within a four-pillar system for simple naviga-
tion: Marine, Functional, Exceptional and Classico.
The Marine pillar pays tribute to Ulysse Nardin’s rich
history with the sea and includes exquisite timepieces
such as the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Marine
Diver and Lady Diver. “Functional” presents the game-
changing Perpetual Calendar, Dual Time and Sonata.
“Exceptional” showcases the Trilogy of Time series,
which catapulted the brand’s comeback, and of
course, one cannot forget the Freak, which stunned
the Swiss watchmaking industry for its groundbreaking
use of Silicium. The category also encompasses the
minute repeaters, where time is not only seen, but also
heard. The Classico pillar comprises timepieces that
integrate in-house dials with the rare, centuries-old art
of enameling.
For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead,
anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the hori-
zon. Forever inventive, the manufacturer remains
steadfast in its pioneering precision of fusing bold inno-
vation with undeniable style. November 2014 heralds
a new era for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s “Lux-
ury – Watches and Jewellery “ division. Through this
acquisition, Kering will support the continuation of
Ulysse Nardin’s path of innovation and ensure the fu-
ture growth of independence in the manufacture of in-
house movements.
F o r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n , p l e a s e v i s i t
www.ulysse-nardin.com
ULYSSE NARDIN
Ulysse Nardin Introduces First In-house Movement
for Classico Collection
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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OUR NEWS
PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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OUR NEWS
PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN
Available in a striking sunray blue finish (this page) and a timeless eggshell version
(right page), both held in a 40 mm gold case, this latest addition to the Classico Collec-
tion shows that tailored style always makes a statement.
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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OUR NEWS
PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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For the 2015 summer season, Maison Mathon
is launching its “Glycine” or wisteria collection
as a tribute to the plant and its pastels col-
ours, synonymous with freshness and renewal.
This climbing plant delicately winds around
pergolas, decorating them with its tumbling
little flowers. Wisteria colours stretch from
white to violet and include powdery pink
shades too.
In Japan, wisteria is considered a sacred tree
in the Iwata sanctuary, where it has been
names a “natural monument”. One tree is be-
lieved to be over 800 years old.
Locally, this wisteria is called “Kujaku-Fuji”
which literally means “the peacock wisteria”.
Its branches are so thick and imposing that
tea ceremonies are served during the day be-
neath the freshness of its flowers.
The “Glycine” line revolves around a long
necklace dressed with pink and white pearls,
balls of smoked quartz, white topazes and rho-
dolites. The fine branches in pink gold bloom
as buds and flowers in teardrop-shaped pink
sapphires.
The ring is like a fan of sapphires. Worn very
close to the hand, it wraps around the finger
like a delicate embrace. The bracelet, sits
comfortably on the wrist, secured by a simple
rotation of the branches.
The earrings, climb up the lobes to decorate
them with spring coloured sapphires, like wis-
teria climbing over houses and homes in the
spring and summer. The delicate “Glycine” is
emblematic of the naturalist style of Maison
Mathon.
MAISON MATHON
The “Glycine” collection.
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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OUR NEWS
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
PhotocourtesyofMATHON©MATHON
19
Sotheby’s Hong Kong is honoured to
present The Cowdray Pearls, one of the
finest and rarest grey pearl necklaces
known (Est. HK$35 – 55 million / US$4.5
– 7 million*), at its Magnificent Jewels
and Jadeite Autumn Sale to take place
on 7 October at the Hong Kong Conven-
tion and Exhibition Centre. Formerly in
the collection of Viscountess Cowdray,
Lady Pearson (1860 – 1932), a distin-
guished connoisseur and collector, this
magnificent necklace strung and
mounted by Cartier comprises 42 ex-
tremely rare and superb natural grey
saltwater pearls well-matched in lustre,
shape and size, and is accompanied by
a pair of natural grey pearl earrings,
mounts by Cartier London. The Cow-
dray Pearls will be exhibited in Singa-
pore (12 – 13 September), Taipei (19 –
20 September), New York (24 Septem-
ber), London (28 September), Geneva
(29 September) and the Middle East
(date to be confirmed) prior to the auc-
tion in Hong Kong.
QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of
Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of Interna-
tional Jewellery, Asia said, “We are ex-
tremely honoured to offer the Cowdray
Pearls in Sotheby’s upcoming Autumn
sale. Natural saltwater grey pearls are
rarely seen at auction and the present
necklace, strung with 42 superb grey
pearls and of aristocratic provenance, is
arguably the greatest of its kind in exis-
tence. This is an extraordinary collecting
opportunity for pearl and jewellery con-
noisseurs around the world.”
The Finest Grey Pearls in Existence
As noted by Swiss Gemmological Insti-
tute (SSEF), the Cowdray Pearls is an
“exceptional pearl necklace” that has
been described to possess “extraordi-
nary characteristics and merit special
mention and appreciation”. Their colour
subtly varies in different shades of grey
and brown, partly combined with highly
attractive rosé , purple and green over-
tones. SSEF also notes that “apart from
its aesthetic beauty and rarity, this pearl
necklace is also exceptional due to its
documented historic provenance”.
An Illustrious Provenance
Formerly in the collection of Viscountess
Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932),
the Cowdray Pearls originally compris-
ing 42 pearls had been re-strung to 38
pearls. Two pearls from this strand after
1937 were mounted into a pair of ear-
rings by Cartier, which remained with
the Cowdray family. These and two
other pearls originating from another an-
tique jewel were recently re-strung back
to its original number of 42 pearls – “to
make it a superb layout of historic
pearls” (SSEF, 2013). The Cowdray
Pearls first appeared at auction at So-
theby’s London in 1937, with a cata-
logue note stating that “there is proba-
bly no finer collection of such pearls in
existence”.
www.sothebys.com
SOTHEBY’S
Sotheby’s Hong Kong to present The Cowdray Pearls
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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OUR NEWS
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY’S©SOTHEBY’S
21
Couture Jeweller to the stars, Martin
Katz, has unveiled two new packages –
‘The Ultimate Proposal’ and ‘Luxury
Wedding’ package within the exquisite
Jewel Suite of The New York Palace ho-
tel.
As part of Katz’ newly unveiled Bridal
ring collection, the renowned Jeweller
will also debut The Palace Engagement
Ring. The ring features a striking three-
carat cushion ring replete with an
architecturally-inspired setting that mim-
ics the Manhattan skyline, as seen from
the windows of the hotel’s Jewel Suite
by Martin Katz. Two trapezoid side dia-
monds and a micro pave halo surround
the center stone and are incorporated
throughout the band.
To celebrate the launch, The New York
Palace is launching two lavish new
travel packages that provide magnifi-
cent accommodations and supreme ex-
periences.
For those looking to dazzle their signifi-
cant other with a truly unparalleled pro-
posal, they can choose the hotel’s Ulti-
mate Proposal Package, including a two
night stay in one of the majestic Corner
Suites when they purchase a Martin
Katz engagement ring valued between
$50,000 and $100,000. For a truly unfor-
gettable experience, those who pur-
chase a ring priced at over $100,000
will receive a two night stay in the sump-
tuous Jewel Suite by Martin Katz. The
ring of choice will be proudly displayed
in one of the beautiful floating show-
cases in the suite until the time of the
proposal. In addition to accommodation
the couples will also receive:
• Roundtrip airport transfer via a luxury
sedan from any of the four New York
metro airports.
• VIP welcome amenities and a floral
arrangement by famed florist, Kostas
at Floralies.
• Romantic Couples Massage at the
Spa at The New York Palace.
• Seven-course dinner for two catered
by the hotel’s Executive Chef.
Dedicated Palace “Proposal Consultant”
who will work with the guest to flawlessly
execute each detail of the proposal

Couples who pop the question with the
Ultimate Proposal Package can also
choose to purchase The New York Pal-
ace Ultimate Wedding Package at The
Mansion on Madison. For an additional
$35,000, couples can host their wed-
ding at the Mansion on Madison, encap-
sulating a true fairytale wedding that
spares no detail, including a cocktail
reception for up to 85 guests, a wed-
ding cake by Ron Ben Israel, a 3 course
dinner, champagne, canapés and a pre-
mium bar service.
For further information visit :
w w w . m a r t i n k a t z . c o m

MARTIN KATZ
Unique wedding proposal packages

Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
22
PhotocourtesyofGUCCI©GUCCI
PhotocourtesyofMARTINKATZ©MARTINKATZ
OUR NEWS
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
23
OUR NEWS
1
3
2
1 Interior view of the Jewel Suite 2 Ashoka Diamond
Drops 3 Interior view of the Jewel Suite
All photos, courtesy of Martin Katz © Martin Katz
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
24
1 View of the Jewel Suite 2 Martin Katz 3 Exterior & terrace of the Jewel Suite
All photos, courtesy of Martin Katz © Martin Katz
OUR NEWS
1
2
3
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
25
FABERGÉ
Summer in Provence

Summer in Provence- A delicious sea-
son of coloured petals dancing in the
warm breeze to the sound of the cica-
das. It is also the season of the new-
est Fabergé High Jewellery time-
piece. Its floral strap tells the time at
the heart of a colourful stream as you
sit back and watch time flow by.
With summer in Provence, Fabergé
has captured the blend of colours
and happiness that characterise the
south of France. This latest creation
from the Fabergé workshops is a
High Jewellery watch that dazzles
with its poetic colors and shapes. De-
signed to resemble a garland of flow-
ers woven on a hot afternoon, sum-
mer in Provence offers a new vision
of jewellery timepieces.
The sophisticated skills of Fabergé
workmasters are evident in the deli-
cacy with which the precious gems
are interlaced with coloured fine
stones and hard-stone micro-
sculptures. A series of interlocking
precious ribbons move across a
rounded pebble, in which the move-
ment of the watch is housed. The
lines intermingle and envelop the per-
fectly round and harmonious con-
tours of the case. Two flexible little
bands in the lower section are filled
with enamel to highlight the Fabergé
name with which the piece is embla-
zoned. Other, snow-set with precious
gemstones, unfurl across the dial to
envelop the case. The softly shaped
bracelet, made of diamonds strung
together like beads on a necklace,
caresses the wrist. In the centre, a
tiny floral chain meanders over its
entire length. Like a garland of lights,
it mimics the gentle swaying of wild
flower in the breeze.
For more information please visit
www.faberge.com
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
26
OUR NEWS
PhotocourtesyofFABERGÉ©FABERGÉ
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
27
ADLER Joailliers
The Four Seasons
The Four Seasons, the timeless musical
masterpiece by Antonio Vivaldi, is the name
given to the four violin concertos that left a
profound mark on the history of classical
music. Inspired by the beauty of these en-
chanting melodies, and the fruit of a cen-
tury of expertise, Adler have created four
Fine Jewellery sets in 18kt white gold set
with sparkling gemstones, representing
Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. Four
sets for four violin concertos, which open
up “the confrontation between harmony and
invention”.
Autumn
The joyous season of song, harvest and
Bacchus announces the arrival of peaceful
days. The air becomes lighter and the
leaves start to fall, dancing a flamboyant
waltz from the sky to the ground. To pay
homage to this majestic ballad, 60 oval-cut
rubies and a myriad of diamonds form a
necklace like no other. Meanwhile six deter-
mined, dancing rubies cause a stir with
more diamonds, comprising a sparkling
pair of earrings.
Winter
Snowflakes create a bewitching whirlwind
before reaching the ground, while crackling
fires gladden those who relax by the hearth.
In spite of the slow waltz of the short, cold
winter days, the season also brings delight.
Diamonds, like glistening crystals of ice,
are the only jewels adorning this set. 58
pear-cut diamonds totalling 57 carats spar-
kle amongst a further 4,057 diamonds in an
intrinsically pure necklace, which is comple-
mented by earrings set with 4 pear- cut dia-
monds for a total of 2.86 carats.
Spring
A season welcomed joyously by both man
and beast, where verdant natural scenery
and the fluttering wings of birds punctuate
the gentle whisper of renewal. To celebrate
this melody, a necklace set with 11 pear-cut
emeralds and 395 diamonds encircles the
neck of its delighted wearer, while earrings
set with diamonds and 2 pear-cut emeralds
complete this charming dawn serenade.
Summer
Passionate and mysterious, through thun-
derstorms and momentary lulls, summer
finally emerges into tranquil sunshine. Then
the night takes over, with its infinite sky and
benevolent stars. The scent of pine trees,
the solemn movement of the sea, and a cho-
rus of crickets ceaselessly accompany this
summertime refrain. Ten intense sapphires
and hundreds of diamonds form a cascade
of carats on the necklace and earrings that
compose the cadence of this star-spangled
set.
For further information visit :
www.adler.ch
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
28
OUR NEWS
PhotocourtesyofADLER©ADLER
Necklace "L'Automne" in 18kt white gold set with 60 oval cut rubies 107.22 cts
and 280 diamonds 58.23 cts
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
29
Necklace "L'Hiver" in 18kt white gold set with 58 pear-shaped diamonds 57.57 cts
and 4057 diamonds 17.37 cts
PhotocourtesyofADLER©ADLER
OUR NEWS
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
30
PhotocourtesyofADLER©ADLER
Necklace "Le Printemps" in 18kt white gold set with 11 pear-shaped emeralds 62.79
cts and 395 diamonds 61.93 cts
OUR NEWS
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
31
ENTICE
Entice your loved ones
with Diamonds this festive season
Entice, the fine jewellery brand by
the renowned KGK group has come
up with a gorgeous and splendid
range of jewellery which are perfect
for gifting to your loved ones, in this
season of weddings and festive ga-
lore. With Rakhabandhan and Teej
round the corner, this is the best time
to gift your special someone nothing
less than glittering diamonds which
they will dote on for years to come.
Festivities and occasions like family
weddings are the best time to ex-
press your feelings, with treasured
gifts to keep the bond of love strong.
Weddings are especially a lifetime
occasion for anyone and what can
be a better way of bestowing your
good wishes than giving them a
beautiful diamond creation, which
will be preserved for ages. These gift-
ing options from Entice celebrate the
Indian spirit of occasion gifting.
The bejeweled diamond collection
comprises of sparkling bracelets,
classic bangles, floral rings and also
some beautiful detachable jewellery
pieces like earrings, ear studs and
necklace. These gorgeous jewels in
inimitable cuts and designs reflect
the style and sophistication of the
new age women. Dazzling diamonds
in varied shapes/cuts such as emer-
ald cut, marquise, pear, round etc.
set with impeccable finish in white,
rose and yellow gold, offers choices
in wearbility – from everyday wear to
special occasions.
Each of the baubles of this range
compliments the pure and selfless
love filled sentiment of gifting some-
thing valuable to your loved ones. As
it is, there is no bigger joy than the
joy of giving; Go ahead and add
some shimmering joys in your life
with this beautiful gifting range from
Entice.
About Entice
Taking the rich Indian jewellery heri-
tage and enhancing it with a contem-
porary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a
classical yet contemporary style;
boasting an elegant rich look. 'Entice'
was launched by KGK group at the
turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong
Kong. Following a huge success with
boutiques in Hong Kong and with an
impression that India is now modern
by design, KGK launched its first bou-
tique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. En-
tice today has 6 standalone bou-
tiques in Hong Kong and India
(Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Ben-
galuru).
Entice designs meet the mounting
demand for an internationally aes-
thetic look, lending a unique artistic
blend to their pieces. Associated by
the strength of KGK, Entice aims to
create an unparalleled position of
credible leadership by providing un-
matched customer delight and ex-
ceeding customer expectations at
every opportunity with its precious
gems and jewellery.
For more information www.entice.in
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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OUR NEWS
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INTRODUCING
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MASSIMO IZZO
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For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been
chosen by celebrated customers around the world.
MASSIMO IZZO, designer and creator of high-end
jewelry inspired by Mediterranean culture is defi-
nitely an amazing artist and jewellery designer that
all jewellery lovers should know and the designer all
collectors should own a piece of jewellery from his
amazing collections.
MASSIMO
IZZO
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His collections evoke a
magic world of
astonishing colors and
enthralling shapes,
crafted by the finest
Italian jewelry school.
Welcome to the world of MASSIMO IZZO, designer and creator of high-end jewelry in-
spired by Mediterranean culture.


The marvelous Sicilian heritage with its charm and history give roots to Massimo’s crea-
tions. His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes,
crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school.
Diamonds, raw aquamarines, morganites, lavander jade, moore and orange corals mixed
with white, rose and yellow gold, sand-treated, hammered or polished by expert hands.
In the Sicilian Lacets collection, grandmothers’ crocheting tradition at the beginning of
the 19th century inspire refined rings with white and yellow gold filigrane, diamonds, Sar-
dinian and Japanese coral.
In the Sicilian Lacets collection, grandmothers’ crocheting tradition at the beginning of
the 19th century inspire refined rings with white and yellow gold filigrane, diamonds, Sar-
dinian and Japanese coral.
Byzantine crosses, ancestral Greek coins and masks become necklaces and earrings of
finest metals, peridots and emeralds. Coral pendants, rose tourmaline and lapis-lazuli ear-
rings, Peruvian opal or fire opal rings enrich his Classic collection, crafted with precious
and semi-precious gemstones.
Exuberant and fantastic designs characterize the Jewels of the Sea collection. En-
chanted underwater atmospheres populated by sea horses, octopuses, starfish, crabs
and corals revive thanks to virtuoso craftsmanship.
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Exuberant and fantastic
designs characterize
the Jewels of the Sea
collection. Enchanted
underwater
atmospheres populated
by sea horses,
octopuses, starfish,
crabs and corals revive
thanks to virtuoso
craftsmanship.
The ‘Massimo Izzo for you’ service is Massimo’s special tool for creating jewels or collec-
tions made-to-order. He designs and creates unique pieces or collections exclusively for
Retailers or Customers, according to their needs and desires.
A longtime customer from NY asked Massimo to create the wedding rings for him and his
fiancée. He created two beautiful and special rings with a little twist inspired by their fam-
ily history. Massimo delivered the creations himself, while on a business trip to NY, and
included in the package the video with the handcrafting process in his laboratory in Syra-
cuse. It was an absolute success, the couple loved it and included it in the touching mo-
ments of their ceremony.
For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by celebrated customers
around the world, royalty, film directors and art galleries. He has been acknowledged
among the 108 contemporary designers by Olivier Dupon in “The new Jewelers” publica-
tion (Thames and Hudson), the red carpet for the new jewelers’ generation.
His boutiques are located in the Fashion District in Milan and in the suggestive Archi-
mede Square in Syracuse, Sicily.
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COVERSTORY
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ETHO MARIA
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ETHO MARIAEtho Maria is the signature brand
collection of a well established inter-
national fine jewellery manufactur-
ing company.
Marrying impeccable craftsman-
ship with superior design, the Etho
Maria fine jewellery line translates
into exquisite, wearable pieces of
art that make a bold and lasting
statement.
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COVER STORY
‘’Etho Maria’’ was established in 2008 as the signature brand collection of the well known
in the trade, manufacturing company ‘’Lithos’’.
More than twenty years of passion and expertise in gemstones and high-end jewelry are
at the heart of the ’Etho Maria’’ label. The flexibility of the pieces, the application of rose
and antique cut in sapphires and the motion of the forms have become the brands’ trade-
marks. ‘’Etho Maria’’ is famous for creating prestigious modern pieces that are hand-
crafted in the company’s ateliers around the globe. That international exposure is evident
in the brands’ aesthetic, the design being influenced by a diverse range of cultures.
Ancient Greek pottery, Byzantine Icons, Islamic Tapestry and Chinese Handicrafts are
some of the sources of inspiration and are transformed in fine pieces of jewelry in the
most unexpected way. Despite the variety of the inspiration sources jewels of ’Etho Maria’’
are instantly identifiable and comfortably wearable.
’Etho Maria’’ jewels are sought after throughout the globe both by stylish women and col-
lectors alike. The company’s creations are always a source of inspiration for the industry.
Everything they do at Etho Maria rests upon one core value: their desire to offer genuine
value to their customer. Every piece of fine jewellery is made with stones that have been
carefully hand-picked for their exquisite beauty and value. Being masters at the art of fine
crafted jewellery, each piece is lovingly created with great care at every stage in the proc-
ess. This ensures the finished product will not only possess a unique beauty, but will
stand the test of time. Such a philosophy encapsulates their fundamental belief that the
craft of fine jewellery creation is indeed an art form.
If someone had to describe the Etho Maria style in just a few words, they would probably
choose the unrivaled ability to astonish and impress on observing the fine craftsmanship
of each piece. Each unique design, reveals an unexpected harmony between elements
and stones which appear to be made for one another.
They design jewellery for those who expect the unexpected. Suffice to say, in embracing
variety and a passion for innovation, their designs are truly one of a kind. Etho Maria de-
signs are dynamic, expressing the aesthetic values the world of fine jewellery considers
timeless.
Each piece has a charm all of its own, a timeless value which makes them the ideal
choice of the eclectic customer.
At the Jewellery Historian, we are honored to host as our cover story, the amazing crea-
tions of Etho Maria. Every piece they create is definitely a masterpiece created by hu-
man hand. Marrying incredible craftsmanship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine
jewelry translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art. Every piece of jewellery created
by Etho Maria is meant to convey feelings and emotions and definitely to inspire future
generations of artists.
For further information visit the official website www.ethomaria.com
If someone had to
describe the Etho
Maria style in just a few
words, they would
probably choose the
unrivaled ability to
astonish and impress on
observing the fine
craftsmanship of each
piece.
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6
INTERVIEW
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INÉDIT JOAILLIER
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
Designing and crafting are definitely means to express the
artist’s spirit, ways to display the sensibility of the artist. It is a
natural need to communicate.
For this issue, we meet Inédit Joaillier in Rouen, in France.
French jewellery-making is famous throughout the world, first
and foremost because of the creativity of the country's jewel-
lers, constantly in search of perfection. They use their time-
honoured expertise to transform a designer's dream into a
perfect piece of jewellery.
That expertise can now be readily identified and certified
thanks to the "Joaillerie de France" collective brand. Created
by jewellery craftsmen and manufacturers, it guarantees that
a piece of jewellery has been manufactured, assembled, set
and polished in France, according to the criteria of quality
and excellence that are synonymous with French jewellery.
The "Joaillerie de France" seal embodies the commitment
and dedication of people who have devoted their skills and
talents to creating beautiful jewellery.
It is a world famous guarantee that each jewellery piece was
made entirely in France but also a symbol of quality, and the
assurance that the piece was made to the highest profes-
sional standards
A person who acquires a piece of Joaillerie de France jewel-
lery can be sure that it has been designed and made accord-
ing to the standards of perfection and distinction of French
jewellery.
At Inédit, pieces are unique, since they are crafted by excep-
tional artists.The jewellers, setter and polisher have inherited
their knowledge and skills from the French jewelry tradition.
To set a gem on a jewel, however small it may be, it must be
conform to the strictest norms of quality : cut, color and pu-
rity.
Their diamonds come straight from Anvers and Tel-Aviv, their-
Sapphires are certified natural and mainly come from Sri
Lanka, while their rubies come from Burma and their emer-
alds from Colombia and Zambia.
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INÉDIT JOAILLIER
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
However, even if our
inspiration is multiple,
first and foremost it
comes from our
common interest in
observing the fine
details whether it be
the shapes or colours.
Resulting in perfect
design association.
Frank, tell us a little bit about yourself and your work.
My name is Frank Margueron and I was born the 24 April 1958. My parents were Jewel-
ers in Guingamp in a little town in Brittany, in France.
Despite having grown up in the world of jewellery, I saw myself having a sports career
divided between the sea and the mountains. However, a skiing accident put an end to
my career plan.
Having always been passionate about the Arts, its the world of photography at the age of
20 that leads me to Paris for the first time and then, after making several acquaintances, I
decide to move to Rouen, Normandy. It is here that I met Carole, my wife, who shares the
same passion for the Arts and Literature, and together in 1984 we create the future IN-
EDIT. We also have a son, who not only works as a Photographer but also contributes to
the development of our Collections.
Being both very close to nature, we live in the countryside and have a common passion
for the sea that remains a great source of our inspiration.
However, even if our inspiration is multiple, first and foremost it comes from our common
interest in observing the fine details whether it be the shapes or colours. Resulting in per-
fect design association.
Nature as well as architecture and certain artworks are also sources of inspiration.
It was during a visit to New York that we design our first collection, the Charleston line,
inspired by the « Chrysler Tower ». This symbol of Art Deco can also be found in later col-
lections.
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INEDIT is a real story
of a passion, and in
particular a natural
means to communicate
and a way of
expressing a sensitivity.
In 2003, the «  Arabesques  » collection is born. Inspired by Italian earthenware, this
proves to be our signature collection, establishing the brand INEDIT. A mix of Italian ren-
aissance and Art Nouveau that can often be found in metal work.
Followed by the « Art Nouveau » Collection, inspired by a Hector Guimard drawing found
in an artwork collection in a Brittany hotel.
INEDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and
a way of expressing a sensitivity.
Without this sensitivity, whether for Carole or me, no creation is possible.
 What were your aspirations when you were young?
The willingness to preserve our know-how and participate to the development to voca-
tions.
Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections unique in the indus-
try?
To say that our collections are unique, would be extremely pretentious.
They are only a reflection of our state of mind.
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Frank Margueron
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Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
Being both very close
to nature, we live in the
countryside and have a
common passion for
the sea that remains a
great source of our
inspiration.
Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor?
Gold and forged metal. Precious stones are also extremely important in our collections.
We only work with natural stones that are untreated and meet the most stringent quality
standards.
What according to you contributed to your success? 
Everyday is a new challenge and I refuse to create by proxy.
How does work take place in your atelier when you design a new collection?
We are 5 in the atelier working around a single set, encouraging a exchange of ideas.
Each trade is represented; Designer, Jeweler and Setter.
What do you like most about being a jewelry designer?
Living my dream.
The most valuable lesson you have learned until today?
To be and remain yourself.
How do you define luxury ?
I would answer you the same way as I did in another question, by living the dream, to be
and remain yourself.
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INÉDIT is a real story
of a passion, and in
particular a natural
means to communicate
and a way of
expressing a sensitivity.
What is your idea of elegance ?
Simplicity
What is your favorite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special?
Every piece that I design is my favourite, from the moment that it makes someone happy.
What kind of person wears your jewelry?
There is no archetype.
Which is your “customer” ?
Women and men who refuse the stereotypes and with whom we share the taste for a
unique, rare and high quality object.
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Gold and forged metal.
Precious stones are also
extremely important in
our collections. We
only work with natural
stones that are
untreated and meet the
most stringent quality
standards.
If you could see any woman wearing your beautiful designs, who would it be?
In my opinion, the goal is that the object I had created for her makes her happy.
Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be?
I don’t know, I work very little for men
Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ?
I really don’t know. My main category of customers are female and I work very little for
men.
What’s it like to see someone on the street wearing one of your creations ?
A certain kind of happiness.
Which is the destination that you find the most inspiring ?
My birthplace, Brittany.
Which is your favorite destination for summer holidays and which is your favorite
for winter ?
Every summer with Carole, we sail on our yacht in Brittany and the winter, I return to my
first love ; the mountains and skiing.
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Your favorite capital ? 
It’s difficult to name just one but I do love Paris, New York and basically all cities full of his-
tory.
Your favorite addresses ?
The cafe « Bonaparte » in Saint Germain des Prés, Paris.
Your heroes in real life ?
The simple women and men that know how to give a part of their existence to others.
Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design ?
I don’t know. I fear that fashion is just something short-lived.
Which fashion designers inspire you with their work ?
Yves Saint Laurent, who was able to shake up the codes whilst remaining timeless.
If you could choose one fashion designer to collaborate with, who would it be ?
Ralph Laurent, who corresponds to my lifestyle.
Are there any persons in art, fashion, architecture and design that inspire you with
their work?
No, the sources of inspiration are multiple and evolve over the years
Which is your favorite author ( and / or book ) ?
Any author that makes me dream
Your favorite motto ?
Waking up every day with the same passion for life and having new projects
Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers ?
Stay yourself as it will always be the best source of inspiration.
If you could change one thing about your career to date, what would it be ?
Nothing
If, you could live the life of another designer or creative, for a day, who would it be,
and why ?
I have never wanted to live someone elses life. I would feel that I was creating a counter-
feit.
How would you define success ? Do you think you’ve found it yet ?
I am not motivated by success, only sharing my passions motivates me.
Every summer with
Carole, we sail on our
yacht in Brittany and
the winter, I return to
my first love ; the
mountains and skiing.
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Our son Frederic is my
biggest
accomplishment.
Today in addition to his
career as a
photographer, he
contributes greatly to
the development of our
collections. We are
very happy and proud
because the activity,
the skill will probably
be transmitted .
Frédéric through his
shrewdness, his critical
sense and talent help
us to think differently.
He and I are
connected. I think when
connected as we are it
is the height of
complicity. 
What’s your greatest accomplishment ?
Our son Frederic. Today in addition to his career as a photographer, he contributes
greatly to the development of our collections. We are very happy and proud because
the activity, the skill will probably be transmitted . Frédéric through his shrewdness, his
critical sense and talent help us to think differently. He and I are connected. I think when
connected as we are it is the height of complicity. 
For me the family that we form all three with my wife is by far the greatest achievement
of a lifetime.
What’s your greatest weakness?
Most probably being too sensitive.
Are you a realist or fantasist ?
I am more of a realist, but a little bit of a fantasist.
Your favorite quote ?
I have a quote that I like a lot of Edward Hopper: "If you could say it in words, there
would be no reason to paint".
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Could you please tell us about your latest collection ?
Historically, we only work with precious stones but recently, I have started to develop cer-
tain pieces with a floral theme set with fine natural untreated stones. These are very rare
stones due to their high quality.
What we should expect from you in the future ?
The same as in the past I hope, stay myself.
Could you tell us about your upcoming projects ?
For the second year running, we are going to be participating at the Biennale des Métiers
d’Art, the Revelations Exhibition at the Grand Palais.
We will be repeating the presence that we gave in 2013, the installation of our workshop
under the dome of the Grand Palais and create, in public, of a unique piece of jewelery
that will join our heritage collection.
In 2013, we created a ring incorporating the architectural concept of the Grand Palais.
This year, based on our son Frédéric’s idea, we will create a piece that will be the meet-
ing point between geology and jewelry. This being a symbol as France will be the host
country this year for the preservation of our planet.
At the Jewellery Historian, we are grateful to Mr. Frank Margueron for meeting us and sharing with
all our readers his universe. We are grateful and thankful to the entire team of Frédéric for all pho-
tos that illustrate the interview, to Carole for her warm welcome, to Gregory for helping us to real-
ize this interview and to the entire Inédit team for allowing us to visit their ateliers and see how
their amazing jewellery pieces are born and created, that we will showcase in a future issue.
For the second year
running, we are going
to participate at the
Biennale des Métiers
d’Art, at the Revelations
Exhibition at the Grand
Palais in Paris. Under
the dome of the Grand
Palais we will create, in
public, a unique piece
of jewelery that will
later join our heritage
collection.
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ANEWMUST
92
ALEX SOLDIER
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93
Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled
craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebri-
ties and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised
him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit
has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that
often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time.
His work is filled with timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery
and affordable price points that it becomes impossible to resist his
magical touch. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry
and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of
shape, color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer.
ALEX
SOLDIER
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Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled craftsmanship, Alex
Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebrities and organizations as clients and
the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field.
His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style
experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time.
Artisanal workmanship defines Alex Soldier’s jewelry. His work is filled with timeless ap-
peal, intricate detail, daring mastery and affordable price points that it becomes impossi-
ble to resist his magical touch.
Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a
constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as indi-
vidual as its wearer.
Alex Soldier designs with a passion for distinction, using innovative proprietary tech-
niques for decorating metal surfaces to achieve an effect of original texture and detail
that surpasses the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship.
Handmade in New York City, the beauty of Alex Soldier jewelry lies in the way it blurs the
line between fine ornament and miniature sculpture. His work is precious poetry that
speaks to the heart.
Alex Soldier was born on a threshold of two continents, Europe and Asia, in the Ural
Mountains region, city of Perm. This region is known for its abundant natural resources
such as gold and adamants.
Based on a Russian folk legend, in the bosom of these mountains once lived a Russian
craftsman named Danila, who spent seven years of his life to carve a flower out of mala-
chite which would be ideal in form and beauty.
So much time and effort had Danila invested into his creation that the final outcome
turned out to be a masterpiece—the flower looked as if it had its own soul, even though it
was made out of stone.
This legend serves as an inspiration for Alex Soldier to this day. When designing jewelry,
Soldier strives to create miniature works of art. He gives life to his work—be it a jewelry
design or an objet d’art—making it more a piece of art than an accessory.
Even as a child, Alex Soldier displayed a talent for sculpture, woodcraft, and painting
miniatures. But before pursuing art as a career, he earned a master’s degree in computer
engineering.
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ALEX
SOLDIER
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In 1981 Alex Soldier made a drastic change in his profession: in just six
months he was promoted from an intern to a chief designer of the largest jew-
elry plant in the Urals region.
His unconventional approach to the jewelry-making process has taken the
plant to a new level of recognition by winning numerous awards at trade
shows across Eastern Europe.
When he arrived in the United States in 1990, Soldier began to work inde-
pendently, developing new methods of designing and producing contempo-
rary jewelry in 18k gold and platinum with precious gemstones.
His innovative approach and artistic aspirations led to a development of an
extensive line of conceptual jewels, earning awards and professional recogni-
tion.
In 1998 Alex Soldier won a Platinum Passion Award from Platinum Guild Inter-
national and in 2002 a Spectrum honor from American Gem Trade Associa-
tion.
His profound understanding of precious metals in concurrence with an ex-
traordinary gift for improvisation gave birth to an entirely different and drasti-
cally novel line of one-of-a-kind miniatures. Imbued with a timeless quality,
mesmerizing in the intricacy, and daring in mastery, Soldier’s objects are
sought after by private collectors worldwide.
Many of Soldier’s pieces are also given as prizes to distinguished artists. “Tri-
umph,” for example, is a prize awarded annually to exceptional Russian art-
ists in art, literature, and music. The statuette is based on a design by famed
sculptor Ernst Neizvestny.
For Alex Soldier, each piece he creates is a new life waiting to tell its story,
like his conceptual miniature called “Nabokov’s Butterfly” that involves Jac-
queline Kennedy and Andrei Voznesenski as the story’s backdrop. Or a spe-
cial present to Tonino Guerra called “Dancing Man” among many others.
More than just metal and stones, Soldier’s jewelry is as meaningful as his
miniatures, incorporating layers of details that offer its wearer many visual sur-
prises. Seeing jewelry as art is central to Alex Soldier’s philosophy.
His longtime legacy has been rooted in creating one-of-a-kind jewelry master-
works marked by his intellectual force, mastery of techniques and the sci-
ence of materials. His work is a precious poetry that speaks to the heart.
What you witness here is a journey of evolving mastery of an incredible talent
that bodies forth a deeply expressive voice in a world of fine jewelry.
At the Jewellery Historian we love Alex Soldier for his innovative and timeless
creations, his amazing style and work. We are extremely proud to feature his
work in this issue because his work is definitely a must.
For further information www.alexsoldier.com
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“For me, jewelry is a
work of art. Each piece
of my collection is a
creation of a new form,
texture and structure,
representing a part of
me and expressing my
individuality, given that
I carefully plan and
design with great
thought. Balancing of
the color, light and
form perfects the
composition of every
creation.
Alex Soldier
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ESTHÈTE
Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle
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An amazing ring by Noudar
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ESTHÈTE
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BREATHTAKINGGEMS
By Eva Kountouraki
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BLUE SAPPHIRE
PhotocourtesyofTiffany&Co.©Tiffany&Co.
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
The blue color of the fine quality sapphires is the standard
against which all other blue gemstones are compared. A
colour so intense, so deep and fulfilling that time seems to
stop when you immerse your eyes in it. Magnificent, sacred,
ancient, mighty, the terms used to describe sapphires
throughout the millennia have always been strong. And
there is a reason for this. Sapphires grow in mountainous
regions and their formation requires powerful earth transfor-
mations. They are born inside the hearts of the high rocks;
however they hold the secrets of the ocean and the immen-
sity of the universe inside them and speak right to the soul
of those who have the sensitivity to listen.
It was in 1881 when a divine landslide revealed one of the
world’s greatest finds. Climbed at a great height, the famous
Kashmir blue sapphires were enthroned and waiting. At the
“region beyond the snow” and an elevation of more than
4.500 meters, the earth exhibited the home of probably the
most beautiful sapphire crystals ever found. As the years
went by and various other sources of sapphires were discov-
ered, this original Kashmir source kept and reinforced its
first position in the highest quality ranking. Those sapphires
had such a special character that has never been found
elsewhere until today. And just like every special thing in
this world, these crystals were only mined for a short period
before the source was exhausted. Today the Kashmir mines
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may still give some sapphires sporadically, but they newer finds do
not even remind the shadows of the legendary first ones.
Myanmar is another well-known area for its sapphires. Gorgeous
blues come from the Burmese mines; intense colour, often dark but
transparent gems, lacking the inclusions that scatter the light and
create the characteristic sought-after “sleepiness” of the Kashmir ma-
terial. The magnificent and crisp Burmese crystals are often referred
to as “Royal blue” in the market. A good example of the high quality
Burmese material is the 62ct “Rockefeller” sapphire set on a ring that
was sold in auction for over 3 million $ in 2001.
The famous “Ceylon” sapphires, found in the mines of Sri Lanka are
equally important. This is a trustworthy source that has constantly
supplied the world with blue sapphires over the centuries. Their ma-
jor characteristic is their lively brilliance and often light tone. Also,
many of the world’s largest sapphire crystals originate from this rich
and exotic island. Other blue sapphire sources include Australia,
Montana USA, Madagascar, Thailand, among others.
Blue sapphire is a variety of the species Corundum, together with
ruby and the fancy colored sapphires. It is a very durable and hard
gemstone suitable for everyday use on all kinds of jewelry. Its blue
colour ranges from very light to very dark tones, with the medium to
medium-dark and vivid blues being the most valuable. Its pure blue
may be slightly enriched by a violetish tint that adds to its beauty, or
it can be somewhat altered by a greenish secondary hue that would
lower its appeal in the market. The most highly prized sapphires in
today’s markets exhibit a violetish blue to pure blue hue in medium to
medium -dark tones and have a smooth “velvety” look.
Blue sapphires were esteemed greatly by all the an-
cient civilizations and many religions dedicated them
to their gods. Ancient Greeks dedicated sapphires to
Zeus, the
principal god of the Greek pantheon. A potent symbol
of divine favor, nobility and truth, blue sapphire was of-
ten the choice of important kings and priests. It is said
that the Ten Commandments that were given to Moses
were inscribed on sapphire tablets.
The majority of the blue sapphires found in the mines
all around the world are either very dark or very light in
tone, while many are heavily included –almost opaque.
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BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
The magnificent and crisp
Burmese crystals are often
referred to as “Royal blue”
in the market. A good exam-
ple of the high quality Bur-
mese material is the 62ct
“Rockefeller” sapphire set on
a ring that was sold in auc-
tion for over 3 million $ in
2001.
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BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
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People have developed various techniques in order to
enhance their appearance and make the gems more
marketable. Almost all blue sapphires seen in the mar-
ket today have undergone some kind of thermal treat-
ment in order to lighten the dark tone or to develop a
stronger hue. Often sapphires are also diffused with
chemical elements. This creates a superficial layer of
strong blue color on a gem that would otherwise be
pale and of little or no interest for the market. Controlled
heating may also result in making cloudy sapphire be-
come clearer by breaking up the inclusions, or it could
also help develop the phenomenon of asterism.
In the past, donating a sapphire to someone was a
promise of loyalty, trust and purity. Today, sapphires are
among the most popular gems everywhere in the
world. Used to crown important moments of our lives,
as protective talismans, as symbols, these are special
gemstones, capable of producing strong emotions that
each individual may translate based on their personal
beliefs. Whether you may choose a sapphire or it may
choose you, the “truest blue” will never fail you.
Ancient Greeks
dedicated sapphires to
Zeus, the
principal god of the
Greek pantheon. A
potent symbol of divine
favor, nobility and
truth, blue sapphire
was often the choice of
important kings and
priests. It is said that the
Ten Commandments
that were given to
Moses were inscribed
on sapphire tablets.
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Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of gold-
smiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed
her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion
that led her to devote her studies and her career in this
field.
She started her first collection of polished and rough gem-
stones at a very early age and realized that this would be
her profession in the future.
After studying gemology books in various languages, she
attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and
developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to
accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute
in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her
studies.
Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and the-
ory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of
gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the
prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma,
which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA
Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA
Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jew-
elry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Man-
agement Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all
the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued
with jewelry design and computer aided design.
Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by
her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva re-
ceived special training from professional and experienced
gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and
for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry
design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and
passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -fa-
mous professionals from around world.
Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever ac-
complished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and
precious stones.
Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jew-
elry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and
companies, advising and helping her clients to make suc-
cessful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also
organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gem-
stone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gem-
passionates.
At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team
Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue.
Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique
breathtaking beauty of gems.
Eva Kountouraki
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
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BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
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OURFAVES
In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for
you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated,
elegant touch to the most important times of your
life and in this issue, we chose to present them in a
very visual way.
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SPOTLIGHT
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POMELLATO
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
147
Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jew-
ellery scene, Pomellato was founded in 1967 thanks to the
intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. The success story
of this company runs parallel with the personality and
unmistakable style of its creations, unique in their
combination of stones, shapes, colours and impecca-
ble artisan manufacture.
In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewel-
lery are recognized as icons. Nudo by Pomellato is
one of the few. This ring, created in 2001, has re-
mained an unmistakable classic over the years, as if
it has existed forever. Yet the apparent simplicity of
the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution in
taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand.
POMELLATO
Purity that seduces time
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
PhotocourtesyofPOMELLATO©POMELLATO
In today’s ever changing world, few
pieces of jewellery are recognized as
icons. Nudo by Pomellato is one of the
few.
This ring, created in 2001, has remained
an unmistakable classic over the years, as
if it has existed forever.
Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo
collection is the result of a true revolution
in taste and design. A trademark of the
Milanese brand.
Pomellato, founded in the 60’s had the se-
cret from the very beginning. The secret of
knowing how to break the rules in the tradi-
tional world of jewellery.
With a solid background in gold craftsman-
ship, Pomellato dazzled and amazed with
innovative, sensual jewellery that women
want to wear everyday and change ac-
cording to the styles of fashion: the first
prêt-a-porter jewellery.
An original style expressing itself through
generous, cabochon cut, coloured gem-
stones with proud setting. Like all true in-
novators Pomellato has continued to
amaze and enchant; and so with a new
aesthetic the Nudo collection was cre-
ated.
A ring that could seem to be just a classic
solitaire, but actually also has all the non-
conformist characteristics of the brand.

The gold ring is entirely rounded with a
simple understated setting which seems
to magically hold the stone so that it cre-
ates the impression of being suspended,
almost floating, to catch the light and re-
flections on its specially faceted surface.
A seemingly simple line that is actually the
work of highly skilled craftsmanship: the
setting and stone are registered copy-
right.
The collection was initially launched in 5
gemstones; now the range includes 13
different nuances, 3 sizes, Nudo Diamond
and Nudo Solitaire.
To celebrate the 10th anniversary, in 2011,
Nudo was launched in a new Maxi version
and the most recent additions are the Petit
and Diamond interpretations, to enhance
the signature design’s spectrum of colours
and sizes.
There are limitless ways to personalize the
sculptural solitaire. Whether worn solo, or
stacked in multiples to create an individ-
ual statement, there is only one Nudo.

You may slip off your dress, but the Nudo
stays on your skin.


A story of creativity, consistency and
visionary research
Synonym of creativity and personality on
the international jewellery scene, Pomel-
lato was founded in 1967 thanks to the
intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. Heir
to a family of goldsmiths, Rabolini was the
first to introduce the philosophy of prêt-à-
porter into the world of jewellery, attribut-
ing a strong distinctive identity to the
brand, thanks to which Pomellato soon
became renowned on the Italian market
and in the rest of the world, becoming the
fifth jewellery company in Europe and one
of the biggest players in the entire sector
at international level.
Inspiration, artisan expertise and flair
The success story of this company runs
parallel with the personality and unmistak-
able style of its creations, unique in their
combination of stones, shapes, colours
and impeccable artisan manufacture.
Every new Pomellato collection is the ex-
pression of surprising creativity that is al-
ways visionary and often becomes a
benchmark for the entire category.
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With 620 employees, Pomellato has always entrusted a role
of fundamental importance to the artisan manufacture of its
jewels, using highly qualified artisans, today represented by
over 100 goldsmiths at the headquarters in Milan.
A success story
Equally important are the entrepreneurial skills of the founder
who, after having brilliantly headed the company for over 30
years, at the end of the nineties decided to hand leadership
over to external management. In 2008 came another turning
point: Rabolini met Andrea Morante, former COO at Gucci
and investment banker for Credit Suisse and Morgan Stanley
in London. Morante was appointed CEO of Pomellato and
became a minority shareholder.
Sergio Silvestris, a well-known and highly respected expert in
the jewellery sector, was head of creativity for over 30 years,
from 1980 to 2014. Sergio Silvestris started out as advertising
manager and then extended his range of action to the image
and creativity of jewellery. Some of his milestones are the
charity project for the International Committee of the Red
Cross in 1994-1995, the Nudo ring in 2001, brand icon known
worldwide as synonym of Pomellato, in 2007 the Haute Cou-
ture Pom Pom, comprising unique unrepeatable pieces and,
in 2012, Pomellato 67, the special line of jewellery inspired by
the reworking in silver of the maison’s classic style codes.
Pomellato and the Kering Group
In July 2013, Pomellato joined the Kering Group, world leader
in apparel and accessories, Kering develops an ensemble of
powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands: Gucci, Bottega
Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Bri-
oni, Christopher Kane, McQ, Stella McCartney, Tomas Maier,
Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Dodo, Girard-Perregaux, Jean-
Richard, Pomellato, Qeelin, Ulysse Nardin, Puma, Volcom,
Cobra, Electric and Tretorn.
By ‘empowering imagination’ in the fullest sense, Kering en-
courages its brands to reach their potential, in the most sus-
tainable manner.
For more information about Pomellato visit the official website
www.pomellato.com
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SPECIAL
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AURORA BOREALIS
Recently we said goodbye to the last full moon of
summer. Aurora Borealis, the Northern lights will
definitely illuminate the new season with amazing
jewellery.
- Address book at page 167 -
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CELESTIAL FAVES
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LEVIAN
SUTRA
TIMEPIECES
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ULYSSE NARDIN
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ULYSSE NARDIN
Ulysse Nardin Marks Artemis Racing Partnership
with Commemorative Marine Diver
PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
The America’s Cup is the most important yachting competition of all
time, and for the event’s 35th year, Ulysse Nardin sails into the sport as
an official partner of Sweden’s Artemis Racing. To celebrate the land-
mark collaboration, the timepiece manufacture is launching an exclu-
sive line of the iconic Marine Diver.
Vivid in deep-ocean blue with bursts of signature Artemis Racing yel-
low, the limited edition of 250 timekeepers was revealed in Gothenburg,
Sweden, host to the America’s Cup World Series. This preliminary com-
petition, held on August 28-30, is a fitting atmosphere to reveal the new
Marine Diver Artemis Racing watch.
Since the beginning, only four countries have won the America’s Cup –
the United States, Australia, New Zealand and Switzerland. Artemis
Racing is striving to be the Cup’s new steward, bringing it to Europe
and Sweden for the first time; and Ulysse Nardin is very proud to sup-
port this historical endeavor – and commemorate it with a collectible
timepiece.
“Ulysse Nardin’s history of navigating the sea, paired with the DNA of
innovation and technology, which is firmly established in both compa-
nies, makes this partnership a perfect match,” says Patrik Hoffmann,
CEO of Ulysse Nardin. “When meeting the Artemis engineers, techni-
cians, and craftsmen at their base in San Francisco, I quickly realized
that the spirit of passion and innovation is the driving force behind this
extraordinary team.”
The energy and ingenuity of the Artemis Racing team is mirrored in this
special execution of the Marine Diver, made for the milestone moment.
Presenting a sleek yet durable mixture of textures, including stainless
steel and rubber, the piece is ideal for yachtsmen who welcome the
fiercest of competition. Reflecting love for the sport while honoring the
occasion is the original pattern on the watch’s face; here, vessels seem
to float on the sea as if awaiting their turn to set sail. Highlighting the
partnership is the Artemis Racing insignia and “Challenger 35th Amer-
ica’s Cup Artemis Racing” tribute. These details, alongside the bold
hour markers, hands and strap accented in yellow, with the Artemis
Racing logo just below the dial, show a highly personal connection be-
tween the brand and the team. Reinforcing the nautical roots of each is
the intricate wave pattern around the dial.
164
The America’s Cup is
the most important
yachting competition of
all time, and for the
event’s 35th year,
Ulysse Nardin sails into
the sport as an official
partner of Sweden’s
Artemis Racing.
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
Boasting exceptional water resistance to 300 me-
ters, made possible thanks to the screw-locked
crown and case-back, it also features a unidirec-
tional rotating bezel, which prevents any acciden-
tal adjustment to the dive time. Forty-four millime-
ters in diameter and powered by the UN-26 self-
winding base caliber, the timepiece offers a
power reserve indicator, small seconds register
and a date display at 6 o’clock, among other pre-
cise functionality.
Complex in its DNA, robust in its aesthetic, the
Marine Diver Artemis Racing is the watch for the
yachtsman in all of us. Whether we are avid par-
ticipators in the sport or watch from the shore-
line, Ulysse Nardin celebrates the sailor spirit by
way of this partnership and its celebratory time-
piece.
The Marine Diver Artemis Racing is available
through Ulysse Nardin’s worldwide retail network.
www.ulysse-nardin.com
165
PhotoscourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
166
PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
ADDRESSBOOK
168
ADLER JOAILLIERS
www.adler.ch
ALEX SOLDIER
www.alexsoldier.com
ANTONINI
www.antonini.it
AS29
www.as29.com
BOUCHERON
www.boucheron.com
CARRERA Y CARRERA
www.carreraycarrera.com
CASPITA
www.caspita.ch
DOVES BY DORON PALOMA
www.dovesjewelry.com
DJULA
www.djula.fr
ENTICE
www.entice.in
ETHO MARIA
www.ethomaria.com
FABERGE
www.faberge.com
FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY
www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com
GORALSKA JOAILLERIE
www.goralska.com
GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces
www.guccitimeless.com
GUMUCHIAN
www.gumuchian.com
INEDIT JOAILLIER
www.inedit-joaillier.fr
JACK VARTANIAN
www.jackvartanian.com
LETICIA LINTON
www.lbldesign.com.br
LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
www.leyla-abdollahi.com
LE VIAN
www.levian.com
LYDIA COURTEILLE
www.lydiacourteille.com
MAGERIT
www.mageritjoyas.com
MARLI
www.marlinyc.com
MARTIN KATZ
www.martinkatz.com
MASSIMO IZZO
www.massimoizzo.com
MESSIKA
www.messika.com
MICHAEL ARAM
www.michaelaram.com
MOUSSON ATELIER
www.moussonatelier.ru
MATHON
www.mathon-paris.com
NIKOS KOULIS
www.nikoskoulis.gr
NOUDAR
www.noudar.com
OMI PRIVÉ
www.omiprive.com
PASQUALE BRUNI
www.pasqualebruni.com
POMELLATO
www.pomellato.com
PICCHIOTTI
http://www.picchiotti.it
QEELIN
www.qeelin.com
ROBERTO COIN
www.robertocoin.com
RICARDO BASTA
www.ricardobasta.com
SETHI COUTURE
www.sethicouture.com
SOTHEBY’S
www.sothebys.com
SUTRA
www.sutrajewels.com
THEODOROS
www.theodoros.com.gr
TIFFANY & CO.
www.tiffany.com
ULYSSE NARDIN
www.ulysse-nardin.com
YANNIS SERGAKIS
www.yannissergakis.com
YOKO LONDON
www.yokolondon.com
YEPREM
www.yepremjewellery.com
ZAFFIRO
www.zaffirojewelry.com
ZOLOTAS
www.zolotas.gr
ADDRESSBOOK
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos
Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
---
Contributors
Eva Kountouraki, Martin Huynh, Christina Rodopoulou
---
Creative Jewellery Historian
Production Jewellery Historian
Publishing Jewellery Historian & 16ml
---
Photo agencies Shutterstock, Pixabay, The stocks
---
Advertising info@jewelleryhistorian.com
Website www.jewelleryhistorian.com
E-mail info@jewelleryhistorian.com
---
Published & Distributed in collaboration with
16ml
---
FREE DIGITAL COPY / NOT FOR SALE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2014-2015
All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with
permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery
Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of
this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our
magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibil-
ity for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for
information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inac-
curate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by
individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by
us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own
and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the
editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jew-
ellery Historian” and/or logo, may not be reproduced without prior consent.
Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited.The content,
entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected un-
der applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual prop-
erty laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters
or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All
trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the com-
pany are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all
Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages & e-
magazine is for informational purposes only.
Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are
published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage
(as applicable), used under license from photo agencies.
The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemol-
ogy, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or maga-
zine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names
and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered
trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to
the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.
Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names,
corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners
or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the
owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.
169
facebook.com/jewelryhistorian
instagram.com/jewellery_historian
twitter.com/jhmag_official
pinterest.com/jhmagazine
Jewellery Historian
13
®
HOLBOX/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Cover jewellery & photo by
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
170
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
We would like to thank all who have contributed to the compilation of this
issue. It would not have been accomplished without their significant con-
tribution. The successful publication that owes a great deal to the profes-
sionals in the creative industry who have given us precious insights and
feedbacks. And to the many others whose names are not credited but
have made specific input in this issue, we thank you for your continuous
support.
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
171
Stand up for their promotion
Stand up for their protection
#Committed
to Heritage
and Creativity
A campaign led with the support of the French customs
United Nations
Educational, Scientific and
Cultural Organization

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Jewellery Historian #13

  • 3. 2 SEPTEMBER 2015 INTRODUCING MASSIMO IZZO 33High-end jewelry inspired by the Mediterranean culture COVER STORY ETHO MARIA 51Exquisite pieces of art, unique as the people who wear them INTERVIEW INÉDIT 73An introduction to the creative world of INÉDIT A NEW MUST ALEX SOLDIER 91Timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery 145SPOTLIGHT POMELLATO A story of creativity, consistency and visionary research REGULARS EDITOR’S LETTER Our editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue ISSUE GLOBE All the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance NEWS News from around the world 107 109 ESTHÈTE 123 The editor’s jewellery choice of the month Jewellery for an important moment of life OUR FAVES BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS BLUE SAPPHIRE Eva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue 09 05 03 SPECIAL FAVES AURORA BOREALIS We illuminate the new season with Northern lights 155 TIMEPIECES ULYSSE NARDIN 161Artemis Racing Partnership with commemorative marine diver Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 4. 3 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 5. 4 EDITOR’S LETTER Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 Life can be a hard pill to swallow. On a daily basis, we are consumed with regrets, failures and insecurities that plague our minds and control our actions. Many times we are over- whelmed by situations and things we wish we could change. We experience heartbreak, loss and fear, along with betrayal, jealousy and bad memories. Things we’ve lost in the past, whether it be a lover or a piece of jewelry, can be hard to let go. However, the ghosts of things and people have no room in our present and will only haunt us as long as we let them. We choose not to let the memory of things departed to become part of our life any longer. Change can come in many forms in our lives. It might come forcefully like a tidal wave, or creep along incrementally like a glacier. It might come in the form of devastating tragedy, difficult choices, broken relationships, or even new opportunities. Many times, the only way to improve our lives is to force ourselves to undergo difficult change. That might mean breaking up and leaving a stale – but comfortable – relationship, leaving a mediocre – but stable – job, moving away from a nice – but uninspiring – loca- tion, moving away from a person or anything else that’s holding us back from accomplish- ing our dreams. Of course, dealing with uninvited change in our lives is often difficult and painful. In many cases, instigating major, but necessary, change in our life can be just as painful. Even though change is often difficult, many times it’s also for the best. Accomplishing anything great in life requires significant change that pushes us beyond our comfort zones. Whatever change you’re dealing with, know that how you cope with that change will have an impact on your future. Try to keep all positive things life gave you and continue your path of life. It is essential to accept change and move forward. It is important to keep the best of the past and as C.P Cavafy wrote : “And if you can’t shape your life the way you want, at least try as much as you can, not to degrade it”. This September issue, is dedicated to change, to any change we have to deal at some moment in our life. This issue is dedicated to everything new, new collections, new de- signs, new season. I hope you will enjoy reading this issue, as much as we enjoyed creating it.
  • 7. In every issue, we introduce you to the most tal- ented jewellery designers and people. At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewel- lery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality.  We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to challenge ourselves and others. Discover the designers, brands & people that we are honored to showcase in this issue. ISSUE GLOBE VOLODYMYRLESHCHENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
  • 8. ALEX SOLDIER Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparal- leled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemak- ers, celebrities and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and preci- sion and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer. 7 MASSIMO IZZO The marvelous Sicilian heritage with its charm and history give roots to Massimo’s creations. His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school. Diamonds, raw aquamarines, morganites, lavander jade, moore and orange corals mixed with white, rose and yellow gold, sand- treated, hammered or polished by expert hands. For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by cele- brated customers around the world, royalty, film directors and art galleries. FRANK MARGUERON For the interview of this issue, we meet Inédit Joaillier and its founder Frank Margueron in Rouen, in France. French jewellery-making is famous throughout the world, first and foremost because of the crea- tivity of the country's jewellers, constantly in search of perfection. They use their time-honoured expertise to transform a designer's dream into a perfect piece of jewellery. At Inédit, pieces are unique, since they are crafted by exceptional artists.The jewellers, setter and polisher have inherited their knowledge and skills from the French jewelry tradition. Inédit perpetuates a unique know-how and keeps standards of French jewellery at the highest possible levels by creating unique amazing pieces of jewellery. ISSUE GLOBE Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 9. 8 ISSUE GLOBE Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PANAYIOTIS SIMOPOULOS Panayiotis joined our team during summer as creative director-at-large. In his new role, he will contribute to special projects and will serve as roving ambassador with links to all creative areas of the magazine, in close collaboration with our founder & editor-in-chief. Successful and talented, he is the rarest kind of creative artist, one who creates extraordinary images. With a unique creative vision, whilst maintaining a clear vi- sion of delivering a message that speaks directly to the reader, he ultimately cre- ates an exciting and balanced visual experience. Together with many of the most talented young photographers, he’ll definitely de- liver, the most memorable, exciting and unique images and fashion editorials that the magazine has ever published. ETHO MARIA Etho Maria is the signature brand collection of a well estab- lished international fine jewellery manufacturing company. Marrying impeccable craftsmanship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewellery line translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art that make a bold and lasting state- ment. The flexibility of the pieces, the application of rose and an- tique cut in sapphires and the motion of the forms have be- come the brands’ trademarks. ‘’Etho Maria’’ is famous for cre- ating prestigious modern pieces that are handcrafted in the company’s ateliers around the globe. That international expo- sure is evident in the brands’ aesthetic, the design being in- fluenced by a diverse range of cultures. POMELLATO In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewellery are recognized as icons. Nudo by Pomellato is one of the few. This ring, created in 2001, has remained an unmistakable classic over the years, as if it has existed forever.
 Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution in taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand. Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jewellery scene, Pomel- lato was founded in 1967 thanks to the intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. Heir to a family of goldsmiths, Rabolini was the first to introduce the philosophy of prêt-à-porter into the world of jewellery, attributing a strong distinctive identity to the brand, thanks to which Pomellato soon became renowned on the Italian mar- ket and in the rest of the world, becoming the fifth jewellery company in Europe and one of the biggest players in the entire sector at international level.
  • 10. NEWS
  • 11. 10 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 12. 11 Design director Francesca Amfitheatrof anticipates a brilliant fall with new inter- pretations of Tiffany Victoria, Tiffany Bow and Tiffany Infinity. In reimagining these signature collections, she brings out the strengths of each, sculpting them in metals of harmonious colors highlighted with diamonds, creating jewelry that is as beautiful worn deli- cately alone or in dazzling multiples. “This is jewelry that can be worn day and night,” Amfitheatrof says. “The de- signs are fluid and elegant, working together or on their own to create a spectacular diamond look” Introduced in 1998, Tiffany VictoriaTM, a graphic floral pattern of marquise dia- monds, is inspired by a diamond cor- sage ornament that was a centerpiece of Tiffany’s exhibit at the 1889 Paris World’s Fair. The new collection evolves with round and pear-shaped diamonds. Matched for color and clar- ity, the diamonds are set in platinum pendants, bracelets and earrings that radiate with the light and energy of the brightest stars in the sky. Tiffany Bow recalls the slender thread one might tie around a finger to remem- ber something—or someone—with whom one shares a close bond. Eight- een karat rose and white gold form asymmetrical loops and off-center knots on slender chokers, curvaceous cuffs traced with diamonds and deli- cate, sparkling rings. Tiffany Infinity symbolizes the continu- ous connection, energy and vitality of an ancient symbol. Amfitheatrof goes minimal with this balanced form, refin- ing its contours in cuffs and rings of sterling silver, as well as 18 karat gold and diamonds with fluid modern style. These Tiffany collections are available at Tiffany & Co. stores worldwide. Tiffany is the internationally renowned jeweler founded in New York in 1837. Through its subsidiaries, Tiffany & Co. manufactures products and operates TIFFANY & CO. retail stores worldwide, and also engages in direct selling through Internet, catalog and business gift operations. For additional information, please visit www.tiffany.com TIFFANY & CO. Design Director Francesca Amfitheatrof Imbues Jewelry with New and Unmistakable Style Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 14. 13 For the first time, Ulysse Nardin introduces a Classico Collection timepiece with an in-house movement con- ceived and developed exclusively by the manufacture. Set within a classically designed timekeeper convey- ing purity in form and effortless elegance, the UN-320 caliber boasts a silicium hairspring and anchor es- capement for supreme accuracy. On the watch’s dial, the hour, minutes, small seconds and date are at 6 o’clock – a stronghold of the Classico Collection’s ba- sic design executions. With the implementation of the movement in the new Classico Manufacture timepiece, wearers can now eas- ily set the date backwards and forwards, a function offered largely by Ulysse Nardin; use the stop sec- onds feature with a mere pulling of the crown; and rely with confidence on the 48-hour power reserve. Available in a striking sunray blue finish and a timeless eggshell version, both held in a 40 mm gold case, this latest addition to the Classico Collection shows that tailored style always makes a statement. Born in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1823, Ulysse Nardin followed in the watchmaking footsteps of his father, Léonard- Frédéric, apprenticing for him, and later, working with precision timepiece expert William DuBois. In 1846 in Le Locle, at the age of 23, Ulysse Nardin founded the company that still bears his name. He paved the company’s future with his pocket and marine chronometers, setting the benchmark in both civil and military realms. When he died in 1876, his son, Paul-David, took control. Ulysse Nardin grew steadily in success and renown and was crowned by more than 4,300 watchmaking awards, including 18 gold medals. Despite its vast achievements, the firm fell victim to the quartz crisis in 1983 and was put up for sale. Yet, this setback transi- tioned into something remarkable: a creator of high horology that would propel its own renaissance and become revered, once again, for its revolutionary de- velopments. Convinced the imaginative firm could become a mar- ket leader, Rolf W. Schnyder purchased the company. It was Schnyder meeting with watchmaking genius Dr. Ludwig Oechslin that sparked the turning point for Ulysse Nardin, resulting in the development of many milestones in the watch industry. Innovation remains embedded in the Ulysse Nardin culture, often ex- pressed through breakthrough achievements and the proactive use of new materials, like Silicium. Its many models, including its most iconic works, are housed within a four-pillar system for simple naviga- tion: Marine, Functional, Exceptional and Classico. The Marine pillar pays tribute to Ulysse Nardin’s rich history with the sea and includes exquisite timepieces such as the Marine Chronometer Manufacture, Marine Diver and Lady Diver. “Functional” presents the game- changing Perpetual Calendar, Dual Time and Sonata. “Exceptional” showcases the Trilogy of Time series, which catapulted the brand’s comeback, and of course, one cannot forget the Freak, which stunned the Swiss watchmaking industry for its groundbreaking use of Silicium. The category also encompasses the minute repeaters, where time is not only seen, but also heard. The Classico pillar comprises timepieces that integrate in-house dials with the rare, centuries-old art of enameling. For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has forged ahead, anchored in seafaring roots with sights set on the hori- zon. Forever inventive, the manufacturer remains steadfast in its pioneering precision of fusing bold inno- vation with undeniable style. November 2014 heralds a new era for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s “Lux- ury – Watches and Jewellery “ division. Through this acquisition, Kering will support the continuation of Ulysse Nardin’s path of innovation and ensure the fu- ture growth of independence in the manufacture of in- house movements. F o r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n , p l e a s e v i s i t www.ulysse-nardin.com ULYSSE NARDIN Ulysse Nardin Introduces First In-house Movement for Classico Collection Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 16. 15 OUR NEWS PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN Available in a striking sunray blue finish (this page) and a timeless eggshell version (right page), both held in a 40 mm gold case, this latest addition to the Classico Collec- tion shows that tailored style always makes a statement. Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 18. 17 For the 2015 summer season, Maison Mathon is launching its “Glycine” or wisteria collection as a tribute to the plant and its pastels col- ours, synonymous with freshness and renewal. This climbing plant delicately winds around pergolas, decorating them with its tumbling little flowers. Wisteria colours stretch from white to violet and include powdery pink shades too. In Japan, wisteria is considered a sacred tree in the Iwata sanctuary, where it has been names a “natural monument”. One tree is be- lieved to be over 800 years old. Locally, this wisteria is called “Kujaku-Fuji” which literally means “the peacock wisteria”. Its branches are so thick and imposing that tea ceremonies are served during the day be- neath the freshness of its flowers. The “Glycine” line revolves around a long necklace dressed with pink and white pearls, balls of smoked quartz, white topazes and rho- dolites. The fine branches in pink gold bloom as buds and flowers in teardrop-shaped pink sapphires. The ring is like a fan of sapphires. Worn very close to the hand, it wraps around the finger like a delicate embrace. The bracelet, sits comfortably on the wrist, secured by a simple rotation of the branches. The earrings, climb up the lobes to decorate them with spring coloured sapphires, like wis- teria climbing over houses and homes in the spring and summer. The delicate “Glycine” is emblematic of the naturalist style of Maison Mathon. MAISON MATHON The “Glycine” collection. Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 19. 18 OUR NEWS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofMATHON©MATHON
  • 20. 19 Sotheby’s Hong Kong is honoured to present The Cowdray Pearls, one of the finest and rarest grey pearl necklaces known (Est. HK$35 – 55 million / US$4.5 – 7 million*), at its Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale to take place on 7 October at the Hong Kong Conven- tion and Exhibition Centre. Formerly in the collection of Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860 – 1932), a distin- guished connoisseur and collector, this magnificent necklace strung and mounted by Cartier comprises 42 ex- tremely rare and superb natural grey saltwater pearls well-matched in lustre, shape and size, and is accompanied by a pair of natural grey pearl earrings, mounts by Cartier London. The Cow- dray Pearls will be exhibited in Singa- pore (12 – 13 September), Taipei (19 – 20 September), New York (24 Septem- ber), London (28 September), Geneva (29 September) and the Middle East (date to be confirmed) prior to the auc- tion in Hong Kong. QUEK Chin Yeow, Deputy Chairman of Sotheby’s Asia and Chairman of Interna- tional Jewellery, Asia said, “We are ex- tremely honoured to offer the Cowdray Pearls in Sotheby’s upcoming Autumn sale. Natural saltwater grey pearls are rarely seen at auction and the present necklace, strung with 42 superb grey pearls and of aristocratic provenance, is arguably the greatest of its kind in exis- tence. This is an extraordinary collecting opportunity for pearl and jewellery con- noisseurs around the world.” The Finest Grey Pearls in Existence As noted by Swiss Gemmological Insti- tute (SSEF), the Cowdray Pearls is an “exceptional pearl necklace” that has been described to possess “extraordi- nary characteristics and merit special mention and appreciation”. Their colour subtly varies in different shades of grey and brown, partly combined with highly attractive rosé , purple and green over- tones. SSEF also notes that “apart from its aesthetic beauty and rarity, this pearl necklace is also exceptional due to its documented historic provenance”. An Illustrious Provenance Formerly in the collection of Viscountess Cowdray, Lady Pearson (1860-1932), the Cowdray Pearls originally compris- ing 42 pearls had been re-strung to 38 pearls. Two pearls from this strand after 1937 were mounted into a pair of ear- rings by Cartier, which remained with the Cowdray family. These and two other pearls originating from another an- tique jewel were recently re-strung back to its original number of 42 pearls – “to make it a superb layout of historic pearls” (SSEF, 2013). The Cowdray Pearls first appeared at auction at So- theby’s London in 1937, with a cata- logue note stating that “there is proba- bly no finer collection of such pearls in existence”. www.sothebys.com SOTHEBY’S Sotheby’s Hong Kong to present The Cowdray Pearls Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 21. 20 OUR NEWS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY’S©SOTHEBY’S
  • 22. 21 Couture Jeweller to the stars, Martin Katz, has unveiled two new packages – ‘The Ultimate Proposal’ and ‘Luxury Wedding’ package within the exquisite Jewel Suite of The New York Palace ho- tel. As part of Katz’ newly unveiled Bridal ring collection, the renowned Jeweller will also debut The Palace Engagement Ring. The ring features a striking three- carat cushion ring replete with an architecturally-inspired setting that mim- ics the Manhattan skyline, as seen from the windows of the hotel’s Jewel Suite by Martin Katz. Two trapezoid side dia- monds and a micro pave halo surround the center stone and are incorporated throughout the band. To celebrate the launch, The New York Palace is launching two lavish new travel packages that provide magnifi- cent accommodations and supreme ex- periences. For those looking to dazzle their signifi- cant other with a truly unparalleled pro- posal, they can choose the hotel’s Ulti- mate Proposal Package, including a two night stay in one of the majestic Corner Suites when they purchase a Martin Katz engagement ring valued between $50,000 and $100,000. For a truly unfor- gettable experience, those who pur- chase a ring priced at over $100,000 will receive a two night stay in the sump- tuous Jewel Suite by Martin Katz. The ring of choice will be proudly displayed in one of the beautiful floating show- cases in the suite until the time of the proposal. In addition to accommodation the couples will also receive: • Roundtrip airport transfer via a luxury sedan from any of the four New York metro airports. • VIP welcome amenities and a floral arrangement by famed florist, Kostas at Floralies. • Romantic Couples Massage at the Spa at The New York Palace. • Seven-course dinner for two catered by the hotel’s Executive Chef. Dedicated Palace “Proposal Consultant” who will work with the guest to flawlessly execute each detail of the proposal
 Couples who pop the question with the Ultimate Proposal Package can also choose to purchase The New York Pal- ace Ultimate Wedding Package at The Mansion on Madison. For an additional $35,000, couples can host their wed- ding at the Mansion on Madison, encap- sulating a true fairytale wedding that spares no detail, including a cocktail reception for up to 85 guests, a wed- ding cake by Ron Ben Israel, a 3 course dinner, champagne, canapés and a pre- mium bar service. For further information visit : w w w . m a r t i n k a t z . c o m
 MARTIN KATZ Unique wedding proposal packages
 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 24. 23 OUR NEWS 1 3 2 1 Interior view of the Jewel Suite 2 Ashoka Diamond Drops 3 Interior view of the Jewel Suite All photos, courtesy of Martin Katz © Martin Katz Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 25. 24 1 View of the Jewel Suite 2 Martin Katz 3 Exterior & terrace of the Jewel Suite All photos, courtesy of Martin Katz © Martin Katz OUR NEWS 1 2 3 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 26. 25 FABERGÉ Summer in Provence
 Summer in Provence- A delicious sea- son of coloured petals dancing in the warm breeze to the sound of the cica- das. It is also the season of the new- est Fabergé High Jewellery time- piece. Its floral strap tells the time at the heart of a colourful stream as you sit back and watch time flow by. With summer in Provence, Fabergé has captured the blend of colours and happiness that characterise the south of France. This latest creation from the Fabergé workshops is a High Jewellery watch that dazzles with its poetic colors and shapes. De- signed to resemble a garland of flow- ers woven on a hot afternoon, sum- mer in Provence offers a new vision of jewellery timepieces. The sophisticated skills of Fabergé workmasters are evident in the deli- cacy with which the precious gems are interlaced with coloured fine stones and hard-stone micro- sculptures. A series of interlocking precious ribbons move across a rounded pebble, in which the move- ment of the watch is housed. The lines intermingle and envelop the per- fectly round and harmonious con- tours of the case. Two flexible little bands in the lower section are filled with enamel to highlight the Fabergé name with which the piece is embla- zoned. Other, snow-set with precious gemstones, unfurl across the dial to envelop the case. The softly shaped bracelet, made of diamonds strung together like beads on a necklace, caresses the wrist. In the centre, a tiny floral chain meanders over its entire length. Like a garland of lights, it mimics the gentle swaying of wild flower in the breeze. For more information please visit www.faberge.com Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 28. 27 ADLER Joailliers The Four Seasons The Four Seasons, the timeless musical masterpiece by Antonio Vivaldi, is the name given to the four violin concertos that left a profound mark on the history of classical music. Inspired by the beauty of these en- chanting melodies, and the fruit of a cen- tury of expertise, Adler have created four Fine Jewellery sets in 18kt white gold set with sparkling gemstones, representing Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. Four sets for four violin concertos, which open up “the confrontation between harmony and invention”. Autumn The joyous season of song, harvest and Bacchus announces the arrival of peaceful days. The air becomes lighter and the leaves start to fall, dancing a flamboyant waltz from the sky to the ground. To pay homage to this majestic ballad, 60 oval-cut rubies and a myriad of diamonds form a necklace like no other. Meanwhile six deter- mined, dancing rubies cause a stir with more diamonds, comprising a sparkling pair of earrings. Winter Snowflakes create a bewitching whirlwind before reaching the ground, while crackling fires gladden those who relax by the hearth. In spite of the slow waltz of the short, cold winter days, the season also brings delight. Diamonds, like glistening crystals of ice, are the only jewels adorning this set. 58 pear-cut diamonds totalling 57 carats spar- kle amongst a further 4,057 diamonds in an intrinsically pure necklace, which is comple- mented by earrings set with 4 pear- cut dia- monds for a total of 2.86 carats. Spring A season welcomed joyously by both man and beast, where verdant natural scenery and the fluttering wings of birds punctuate the gentle whisper of renewal. To celebrate this melody, a necklace set with 11 pear-cut emeralds and 395 diamonds encircles the neck of its delighted wearer, while earrings set with diamonds and 2 pear-cut emeralds complete this charming dawn serenade. Summer Passionate and mysterious, through thun- derstorms and momentary lulls, summer finally emerges into tranquil sunshine. Then the night takes over, with its infinite sky and benevolent stars. The scent of pine trees, the solemn movement of the sea, and a cho- rus of crickets ceaselessly accompany this summertime refrain. Ten intense sapphires and hundreds of diamonds form a cascade of carats on the necklace and earrings that compose the cadence of this star-spangled set. For further information visit : www.adler.ch Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 29. 28 OUR NEWS PhotocourtesyofADLER©ADLER Necklace "L'Automne" in 18kt white gold set with 60 oval cut rubies 107.22 cts and 280 diamonds 58.23 cts Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 30. 29 Necklace "L'Hiver" in 18kt white gold set with 58 pear-shaped diamonds 57.57 cts and 4057 diamonds 17.37 cts PhotocourtesyofADLER©ADLER OUR NEWS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 31. 30 PhotocourtesyofADLER©ADLER Necklace "Le Printemps" in 18kt white gold set with 11 pear-shaped emeralds 62.79 cts and 395 diamonds 61.93 cts OUR NEWS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 32. 31 ENTICE Entice your loved ones with Diamonds this festive season Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the renowned KGK group has come up with a gorgeous and splendid range of jewellery which are perfect for gifting to your loved ones, in this season of weddings and festive ga- lore. With Rakhabandhan and Teej round the corner, this is the best time to gift your special someone nothing less than glittering diamonds which they will dote on for years to come. Festivities and occasions like family weddings are the best time to ex- press your feelings, with treasured gifts to keep the bond of love strong. Weddings are especially a lifetime occasion for anyone and what can be a better way of bestowing your good wishes than giving them a beautiful diamond creation, which will be preserved for ages. These gift- ing options from Entice celebrate the Indian spirit of occasion gifting. The bejeweled diamond collection comprises of sparkling bracelets, classic bangles, floral rings and also some beautiful detachable jewellery pieces like earrings, ear studs and necklace. These gorgeous jewels in inimitable cuts and designs reflect the style and sophistication of the new age women. Dazzling diamonds in varied shapes/cuts such as emer- ald cut, marquise, pear, round etc. set with impeccable finish in white, rose and yellow gold, offers choices in wearbility – from everyday wear to special occasions. Each of the baubles of this range compliments the pure and selfless love filled sentiment of gifting some- thing valuable to your loved ones. As it is, there is no bigger joy than the joy of giving; Go ahead and add some shimmering joys in your life with this beautiful gifting range from Entice. About Entice Taking the rich Indian jewellery heri- tage and enhancing it with a contem- porary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look. 'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success with boutiques in Hong Kong and with an impression that India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first bou- tique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. En- tice today has 6 standalone bou- tiques in Hong Kong and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Ben- galuru). Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an internationally aes- thetic look, lending a unique artistic blend to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK, Entice aims to create an unparalleled position of credible leadership by providing un- matched customer delight and ex- ceeding customer expectations at every opportunity with its precious gems and jewellery. For more information www.entice.in Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 36. 35 For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by celebrated customers around the world. MASSIMO IZZO, designer and creator of high-end jewelry inspired by Mediterranean culture is defi- nitely an amazing artist and jewellery designer that all jewellery lovers should know and the designer all collectors should own a piece of jewellery from his amazing collections. MASSIMO IZZO PhotocourtesyofMassimoIzzo©MassimoIzzo Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 37. His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school. Welcome to the world of MASSIMO IZZO, designer and creator of high-end jewelry in- spired by Mediterranean culture. 
 The marvelous Sicilian heritage with its charm and history give roots to Massimo’s crea- tions. His collections evoke a magic world of astonishing colors and enthralling shapes, crafted by the finest Italian jewelry school. Diamonds, raw aquamarines, morganites, lavander jade, moore and orange corals mixed with white, rose and yellow gold, sand-treated, hammered or polished by expert hands. In the Sicilian Lacets collection, grandmothers’ crocheting tradition at the beginning of the 19th century inspire refined rings with white and yellow gold filigrane, diamonds, Sar- dinian and Japanese coral. In the Sicilian Lacets collection, grandmothers’ crocheting tradition at the beginning of the 19th century inspire refined rings with white and yellow gold filigrane, diamonds, Sar- dinian and Japanese coral. Byzantine crosses, ancestral Greek coins and masks become necklaces and earrings of finest metals, peridots and emeralds. Coral pendants, rose tourmaline and lapis-lazuli ear- rings, Peruvian opal or fire opal rings enrich his Classic collection, crafted with precious and semi-precious gemstones. Exuberant and fantastic designs characterize the Jewels of the Sea collection. En- chanted underwater atmospheres populated by sea horses, octopuses, starfish, crabs and corals revive thanks to virtuoso craftsmanship. 36 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 39. Exuberant and fantastic designs characterize the Jewels of the Sea collection. Enchanted underwater atmospheres populated by sea horses, octopuses, starfish, crabs and corals revive thanks to virtuoso craftsmanship. The ‘Massimo Izzo for you’ service is Massimo’s special tool for creating jewels or collec- tions made-to-order. He designs and creates unique pieces or collections exclusively for Retailers or Customers, according to their needs and desires. A longtime customer from NY asked Massimo to create the wedding rings for him and his fiancée. He created two beautiful and special rings with a little twist inspired by their fam- ily history. Massimo delivered the creations himself, while on a business trip to NY, and included in the package the video with the handcrafting process in his laboratory in Syra- cuse. It was an absolute success, the couple loved it and included it in the touching mo- ments of their ceremony. For over 27 years Massimo’s creations have been chosen by celebrated customers around the world, royalty, film directors and art galleries. He has been acknowledged among the 108 contemporary designers by Olivier Dupon in “The new Jewelers” publica- tion (Thames and Hudson), the red carpet for the new jewelers’ generation. His boutiques are located in the Fashion District in Milan and in the suggestive Archi- mede Square in Syracuse, Sicily. 38 PhotocourtesyofMassimoIzzo©MassimoIzzo Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
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  • 54. 53 ETHO MARIAEtho Maria is the signature brand collection of a well established inter- national fine jewellery manufactur- ing company. Marrying impeccable craftsman- ship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewellery line translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art that make a bold and lasting statement. Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofETHOMARIA©ETHOMARIA COVER STORY
  • 55. ‘’Etho Maria’’ was established in 2008 as the signature brand collection of the well known in the trade, manufacturing company ‘’Lithos’’. More than twenty years of passion and expertise in gemstones and high-end jewelry are at the heart of the ’Etho Maria’’ label. The flexibility of the pieces, the application of rose and antique cut in sapphires and the motion of the forms have become the brands’ trade- marks. ‘’Etho Maria’’ is famous for creating prestigious modern pieces that are hand- crafted in the company’s ateliers around the globe. That international exposure is evident in the brands’ aesthetic, the design being influenced by a diverse range of cultures. Ancient Greek pottery, Byzantine Icons, Islamic Tapestry and Chinese Handicrafts are some of the sources of inspiration and are transformed in fine pieces of jewelry in the most unexpected way. Despite the variety of the inspiration sources jewels of ’Etho Maria’’ are instantly identifiable and comfortably wearable. ’Etho Maria’’ jewels are sought after throughout the globe both by stylish women and col- lectors alike. The company’s creations are always a source of inspiration for the industry. Everything they do at Etho Maria rests upon one core value: their desire to offer genuine value to their customer. Every piece of fine jewellery is made with stones that have been carefully hand-picked for their exquisite beauty and value. Being masters at the art of fine crafted jewellery, each piece is lovingly created with great care at every stage in the proc- ess. This ensures the finished product will not only possess a unique beauty, but will stand the test of time. Such a philosophy encapsulates their fundamental belief that the craft of fine jewellery creation is indeed an art form. If someone had to describe the Etho Maria style in just a few words, they would probably choose the unrivaled ability to astonish and impress on observing the fine craftsmanship of each piece. Each unique design, reveals an unexpected harmony between elements and stones which appear to be made for one another. They design jewellery for those who expect the unexpected. Suffice to say, in embracing variety and a passion for innovation, their designs are truly one of a kind. Etho Maria de- signs are dynamic, expressing the aesthetic values the world of fine jewellery considers timeless. Each piece has a charm all of its own, a timeless value which makes them the ideal choice of the eclectic customer. At the Jewellery Historian, we are honored to host as our cover story, the amazing crea- tions of Etho Maria. Every piece they create is definitely a masterpiece created by hu- man hand. Marrying incredible craftsmanship with superior design, the Etho Maria fine jewelry translates into exquisite, wearable pieces of art. Every piece of jewellery created by Etho Maria is meant to convey feelings and emotions and definitely to inspire future generations of artists. For further information visit the official website www.ethomaria.com If someone had to describe the Etho Maria style in just a few words, they would probably choose the unrivaled ability to astonish and impress on observing the fine craftsmanship of each piece. 54 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 56. 55 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofETHOMARIA©ETHOMARIA
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  • 76. Designing and crafting are definitely means to express the artist’s spirit, ways to display the sensibility of the artist. It is a natural need to communicate. For this issue, we meet Inédit Joaillier in Rouen, in France. French jewellery-making is famous throughout the world, first and foremost because of the creativity of the country's jewel- lers, constantly in search of perfection. They use their time- honoured expertise to transform a designer's dream into a perfect piece of jewellery. That expertise can now be readily identified and certified thanks to the "Joaillerie de France" collective brand. Created by jewellery craftsmen and manufacturers, it guarantees that a piece of jewellery has been manufactured, assembled, set and polished in France, according to the criteria of quality and excellence that are synonymous with French jewellery. The "Joaillerie de France" seal embodies the commitment and dedication of people who have devoted their skills and talents to creating beautiful jewellery. It is a world famous guarantee that each jewellery piece was made entirely in France but also a symbol of quality, and the assurance that the piece was made to the highest profes- sional standards A person who acquires a piece of Joaillerie de France jewel- lery can be sure that it has been designed and made accord- ing to the standards of perfection and distinction of French jewellery. At Inédit, pieces are unique, since they are crafted by excep- tional artists.The jewellers, setter and polisher have inherited their knowledge and skills from the French jewelry tradition. To set a gem on a jewel, however small it may be, it must be conform to the strictest norms of quality : cut, color and pu- rity. Their diamonds come straight from Anvers and Tel-Aviv, their- Sapphires are certified natural and mainly come from Sri Lanka, while their rubies come from Burma and their emer- alds from Colombia and Zambia. 75 INÉDIT JOAILLIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 77. However, even if our inspiration is multiple, first and foremost it comes from our common interest in observing the fine details whether it be the shapes or colours. Resulting in perfect design association. Frank, tell us a little bit about yourself and your work. My name is Frank Margueron and I was born the 24 April 1958. My parents were Jewel- ers in Guingamp in a little town in Brittany, in France. Despite having grown up in the world of jewellery, I saw myself having a sports career divided between the sea and the mountains. However, a skiing accident put an end to my career plan. Having always been passionate about the Arts, its the world of photography at the age of 20 that leads me to Paris for the first time and then, after making several acquaintances, I decide to move to Rouen, Normandy. It is here that I met Carole, my wife, who shares the same passion for the Arts and Literature, and together in 1984 we create the future IN- EDIT. We also have a son, who not only works as a Photographer but also contributes to the development of our Collections. Being both very close to nature, we live in the countryside and have a common passion for the sea that remains a great source of our inspiration. However, even if our inspiration is multiple, first and foremost it comes from our common interest in observing the fine details whether it be the shapes or colours. Resulting in per- fect design association. Nature as well as architecture and certain artworks are also sources of inspiration. It was during a visit to New York that we design our first collection, the Charleston line, inspired by the « Chrysler Tower ». This symbol of Art Deco can also be found in later col- lections. 76 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofINÉDIT©INÉDIT
  • 78. INEDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity. In 2003, the «  Arabesques  » collection is born. Inspired by Italian earthenware, this proves to be our signature collection, establishing the brand INEDIT. A mix of Italian ren- aissance and Art Nouveau that can often be found in metal work. Followed by the « Art Nouveau » Collection, inspired by a Hector Guimard drawing found in an artwork collection in a Brittany hotel. INEDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity. Without this sensitivity, whether for Carole or me, no creation is possible.  What were your aspirations when you were young? The willingness to preserve our know-how and participate to the development to voca- tions. Tell us about your design style. What makes your collections unique in the indus- try? To say that our collections are unique, would be extremely pretentious. They are only a reflection of our state of mind. 77 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofINÉDIT©INÉDIT
  • 80. Being both very close to nature, we live in the countryside and have a common passion for the sea that remains a great source of our inspiration. Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor? Gold and forged metal. Precious stones are also extremely important in our collections. We only work with natural stones that are untreated and meet the most stringent quality standards. What according to you contributed to your success?  Everyday is a new challenge and I refuse to create by proxy. How does work take place in your atelier when you design a new collection? We are 5 in the atelier working around a single set, encouraging a exchange of ideas. Each trade is represented; Designer, Jeweler and Setter. What do you like most about being a jewelry designer? Living my dream. The most valuable lesson you have learned until today? To be and remain yourself. How do you define luxury ? I would answer you the same way as I did in another question, by living the dream, to be and remain yourself. 79 PhotographybyYOAANNL’HOSTELLIER.PhotocourtesyofMATHONPARIS©MATHON Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofINÉDIT©INÉDIT
  • 82. INÉDIT is a real story of a passion, and in particular a natural means to communicate and a way of expressing a sensitivity. What is your idea of elegance ? Simplicity What is your favorite piece you’ve ever created – and what made it so special? Every piece that I design is my favourite, from the moment that it makes someone happy. What kind of person wears your jewelry? There is no archetype. Which is your “customer” ? Women and men who refuse the stereotypes and with whom we share the taste for a unique, rare and high quality object. 81 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofINÉDIT©INÉDIT
  • 84. Gold and forged metal. Precious stones are also extremely important in our collections. We only work with natural stones that are untreated and meet the most stringent quality standards. If you could see any woman wearing your beautiful designs, who would it be? In my opinion, the goal is that the object I had created for her makes her happy. Are men more open-minded about wearing jewellery than they used to be? I don’t know, I work very little for men Do you believe that a man should wear jewellery ? I really don’t know. My main category of customers are female and I work very little for men. What’s it like to see someone on the street wearing one of your creations ? A certain kind of happiness. Which is the destination that you find the most inspiring ? My birthplace, Brittany. Which is your favorite destination for summer holidays and which is your favorite for winter ? Every summer with Carole, we sail on our yacht in Brittany and the winter, I return to my first love ; the mountains and skiing. 83 PhotocourtesyofMATHON©MATHON Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofINÉDIT©INÉDIT
  • 86. Your favorite capital ?  It’s difficult to name just one but I do love Paris, New York and basically all cities full of his- tory. Your favorite addresses ? The cafe « Bonaparte » in Saint Germain des Prés, Paris. Your heroes in real life ? The simple women and men that know how to give a part of their existence to others. Do you think that there is a relation between fashion and jewellery design ? I don’t know. I fear that fashion is just something short-lived. Which fashion designers inspire you with their work ? Yves Saint Laurent, who was able to shake up the codes whilst remaining timeless. If you could choose one fashion designer to collaborate with, who would it be ? Ralph Laurent, who corresponds to my lifestyle. Are there any persons in art, fashion, architecture and design that inspire you with their work? No, the sources of inspiration are multiple and evolve over the years Which is your favorite author ( and / or book ) ? Any author that makes me dream Your favorite motto ? Waking up every day with the same passion for life and having new projects Which is your advice to young and aspiring jewellery designers ? Stay yourself as it will always be the best source of inspiration. If you could change one thing about your career to date, what would it be ? Nothing If, you could live the life of another designer or creative, for a day, who would it be, and why ? I have never wanted to live someone elses life. I would feel that I was creating a counter- feit. How would you define success ? Do you think you’ve found it yet ? I am not motivated by success, only sharing my passions motivates me. Every summer with Carole, we sail on our yacht in Brittany and the winter, I return to my first love ; the mountains and skiing. 85 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 88. Our son Frederic is my biggest accomplishment. Today in addition to his career as a photographer, he contributes greatly to the development of our collections. We are very happy and proud because the activity, the skill will probably be transmitted . Frédéric through his shrewdness, his critical sense and talent help us to think differently. He and I are connected. I think when connected as we are it is the height of complicity.  What’s your greatest accomplishment ? Our son Frederic. Today in addition to his career as a photographer, he contributes greatly to the development of our collections. We are very happy and proud because the activity, the skill will probably be transmitted . Frédéric through his shrewdness, his critical sense and talent help us to think differently. He and I are connected. I think when connected as we are it is the height of complicity.  For me the family that we form all three with my wife is by far the greatest achievement of a lifetime. What’s your greatest weakness? Most probably being too sensitive. Are you a realist or fantasist ? I am more of a realist, but a little bit of a fantasist. Your favorite quote ? I have a quote that I like a lot of Edward Hopper: "If you could say it in words, there would be no reason to paint". 87 PhotocourtesyofMATHON©MATHON Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofINÉDIT©INÉDIT
  • 90. Could you please tell us about your latest collection ? Historically, we only work with precious stones but recently, I have started to develop cer- tain pieces with a floral theme set with fine natural untreated stones. These are very rare stones due to their high quality. What we should expect from you in the future ? The same as in the past I hope, stay myself. Could you tell us about your upcoming projects ? For the second year running, we are going to be participating at the Biennale des Métiers d’Art, the Revelations Exhibition at the Grand Palais. We will be repeating the presence that we gave in 2013, the installation of our workshop under the dome of the Grand Palais and create, in public, of a unique piece of jewelery that will join our heritage collection. In 2013, we created a ring incorporating the architectural concept of the Grand Palais. This year, based on our son Frédéric’s idea, we will create a piece that will be the meet- ing point between geology and jewelry. This being a symbol as France will be the host country this year for the preservation of our planet. At the Jewellery Historian, we are grateful to Mr. Frank Margueron for meeting us and sharing with all our readers his universe. We are grateful and thankful to the entire team of Frédéric for all pho- tos that illustrate the interview, to Carole for her warm welcome, to Gregory for helping us to real- ize this interview and to the entire Inédit team for allowing us to visit their ateliers and see how their amazing jewellery pieces are born and created, that we will showcase in a future issue. For the second year running, we are going to participate at the Biennale des Métiers d’Art, at the Revelations Exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris. Under the dome of the Grand Palais we will create, in public, a unique piece of jewelery that will later join our heritage collection. 89 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 94. 93 Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebri- ties and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time. His work is filled with timeless appeal, intricate detail, daring mastery and affordable price points that it becomes impossible to resist his magical touch. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as individual as its wearer. ALEX SOLDIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 95. 94 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 96. Known for his elaborate metalwork, distinctive style and unparalleled craftsmanship, Alex Soldier counts the most stylish tastemakers, celebrities and organizations as clients and the jewelry trade has long praised him as a leader in the field. His incredible talent and innovative spirit has captured the hearts of leading editors, style experts and buyers that often proclaim him as the most innovative designer of our time. Artisanal workmanship defines Alex Soldier’s jewelry. His work is filled with timeless ap- peal, intricate detail, daring mastery and affordable price points that it becomes impossi- ble to resist his magical touch. Every piece that he creates bears his signature artistry and precision and represents a constantly evolving combination of shape, color and texture—making each piece as indi- vidual as its wearer. Alex Soldier designs with a passion for distinction, using innovative proprietary tech- niques for decorating metal surfaces to achieve an effect of original texture and detail that surpasses the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship. Handmade in New York City, the beauty of Alex Soldier jewelry lies in the way it blurs the line between fine ornament and miniature sculpture. His work is precious poetry that speaks to the heart. Alex Soldier was born on a threshold of two continents, Europe and Asia, in the Ural Mountains region, city of Perm. This region is known for its abundant natural resources such as gold and adamants. Based on a Russian folk legend, in the bosom of these mountains once lived a Russian craftsman named Danila, who spent seven years of his life to carve a flower out of mala- chite which would be ideal in form and beauty. So much time and effort had Danila invested into his creation that the final outcome turned out to be a masterpiece—the flower looked as if it had its own soul, even though it was made out of stone. This legend serves as an inspiration for Alex Soldier to this day. When designing jewelry, Soldier strives to create miniature works of art. He gives life to his work—be it a jewelry design or an objet d’art—making it more a piece of art than an accessory. Even as a child, Alex Soldier displayed a talent for sculpture, woodcraft, and painting miniatures. But before pursuing art as a career, he earned a master’s degree in computer engineering. 95 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 ALEX SOLDIER
  • 97. 96 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 98. In 1981 Alex Soldier made a drastic change in his profession: in just six months he was promoted from an intern to a chief designer of the largest jew- elry plant in the Urals region. His unconventional approach to the jewelry-making process has taken the plant to a new level of recognition by winning numerous awards at trade shows across Eastern Europe. When he arrived in the United States in 1990, Soldier began to work inde- pendently, developing new methods of designing and producing contempo- rary jewelry in 18k gold and platinum with precious gemstones. His innovative approach and artistic aspirations led to a development of an extensive line of conceptual jewels, earning awards and professional recogni- tion. In 1998 Alex Soldier won a Platinum Passion Award from Platinum Guild Inter- national and in 2002 a Spectrum honor from American Gem Trade Associa- tion. His profound understanding of precious metals in concurrence with an ex- traordinary gift for improvisation gave birth to an entirely different and drasti- cally novel line of one-of-a-kind miniatures. Imbued with a timeless quality, mesmerizing in the intricacy, and daring in mastery, Soldier’s objects are sought after by private collectors worldwide. Many of Soldier’s pieces are also given as prizes to distinguished artists. “Tri- umph,” for example, is a prize awarded annually to exceptional Russian art- ists in art, literature, and music. The statuette is based on a design by famed sculptor Ernst Neizvestny. For Alex Soldier, each piece he creates is a new life waiting to tell its story, like his conceptual miniature called “Nabokov’s Butterfly” that involves Jac- queline Kennedy and Andrei Voznesenski as the story’s backdrop. Or a spe- cial present to Tonino Guerra called “Dancing Man” among many others. More than just metal and stones, Soldier’s jewelry is as meaningful as his miniatures, incorporating layers of details that offer its wearer many visual sur- prises. Seeing jewelry as art is central to Alex Soldier’s philosophy. His longtime legacy has been rooted in creating one-of-a-kind jewelry master- works marked by his intellectual force, mastery of techniques and the sci- ence of materials. His work is a precious poetry that speaks to the heart. What you witness here is a journey of evolving mastery of an incredible talent that bodies forth a deeply expressive voice in a world of fine jewelry. At the Jewellery Historian we love Alex Soldier for his innovative and timeless creations, his amazing style and work. We are extremely proud to feature his work in this issue because his work is definitely a must. For further information www.alexsoldier.com 97 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 “For me, jewelry is a work of art. Each piece of my collection is a creation of a new form, texture and structure, representing a part of me and expressing my individuality, given that I carefully plan and design with great thought. Balancing of the color, light and form perfects the composition of every creation. Alex Soldier
  • 99. 98 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 100. 99 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER
  • 101. 100 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 102. 101 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER
  • 103. 102 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 104. 103 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER
  • 105. 104 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 106. 105 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER
  • 107. 106 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 108. ESTHÈTE Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle
  • 109. 108 An amazing ring by Noudar PhotocourtesyofNOUDAR©NOUDAR ESTHÈTE Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 112. The blue color of the fine quality sapphires is the standard against which all other blue gemstones are compared. A colour so intense, so deep and fulfilling that time seems to stop when you immerse your eyes in it. Magnificent, sacred, ancient, mighty, the terms used to describe sapphires throughout the millennia have always been strong. And there is a reason for this. Sapphires grow in mountainous regions and their formation requires powerful earth transfor- mations. They are born inside the hearts of the high rocks; however they hold the secrets of the ocean and the immen- sity of the universe inside them and speak right to the soul of those who have the sensitivity to listen. It was in 1881 when a divine landslide revealed one of the world’s greatest finds. Climbed at a great height, the famous Kashmir blue sapphires were enthroned and waiting. At the “region beyond the snow” and an elevation of more than 4.500 meters, the earth exhibited the home of probably the most beautiful sapphire crystals ever found. As the years went by and various other sources of sapphires were discov- ered, this original Kashmir source kept and reinforced its first position in the highest quality ranking. Those sapphires had such a special character that has never been found elsewhere until today. And just like every special thing in this world, these crystals were only mined for a short period before the source was exhausted. Today the Kashmir mines 111 [PhotoinPublicdomain] BLUE SAPPHIRE BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS PhotocourtesyofTiffany&Co.©Tiffany&Co. Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
  • 113. 112 BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 114. 113 PhotocourtesyofNOUDAR©NOUDAR BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 115. 114 PhotocourtesyofNOUDAR©NOUDAR BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 116. may still give some sapphires sporadically, but they newer finds do not even remind the shadows of the legendary first ones. Myanmar is another well-known area for its sapphires. Gorgeous blues come from the Burmese mines; intense colour, often dark but transparent gems, lacking the inclusions that scatter the light and create the characteristic sought-after “sleepiness” of the Kashmir ma- terial. The magnificent and crisp Burmese crystals are often referred to as “Royal blue” in the market. A good example of the high quality Burmese material is the 62ct “Rockefeller” sapphire set on a ring that was sold in auction for over 3 million $ in 2001. The famous “Ceylon” sapphires, found in the mines of Sri Lanka are equally important. This is a trustworthy source that has constantly supplied the world with blue sapphires over the centuries. Their ma- jor characteristic is their lively brilliance and often light tone. Also, many of the world’s largest sapphire crystals originate from this rich and exotic island. Other blue sapphire sources include Australia, Montana USA, Madagascar, Thailand, among others. Blue sapphire is a variety of the species Corundum, together with ruby and the fancy colored sapphires. It is a very durable and hard gemstone suitable for everyday use on all kinds of jewelry. Its blue colour ranges from very light to very dark tones, with the medium to medium-dark and vivid blues being the most valuable. Its pure blue may be slightly enriched by a violetish tint that adds to its beauty, or it can be somewhat altered by a greenish secondary hue that would lower its appeal in the market. The most highly prized sapphires in today’s markets exhibit a violetish blue to pure blue hue in medium to medium -dark tones and have a smooth “velvety” look. Blue sapphires were esteemed greatly by all the an- cient civilizations and many religions dedicated them to their gods. Ancient Greeks dedicated sapphires to Zeus, the principal god of the Greek pantheon. A potent symbol of divine favor, nobility and truth, blue sapphire was of- ten the choice of important kings and priests. It is said that the Ten Commandments that were given to Moses were inscribed on sapphire tablets. The majority of the blue sapphires found in the mines all around the world are either very dark or very light in tone, while many are heavily included –almost opaque. 115 BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS The magnificent and crisp Burmese crystals are often referred to as “Royal blue” in the market. A good exam- ple of the high quality Bur- mese material is the 62ct “Rockefeller” sapphire set on a ring that was sold in auc- tion for over 3 million $ in 2001. Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 117. 116 BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 118. People have developed various techniques in order to enhance their appearance and make the gems more marketable. Almost all blue sapphires seen in the mar- ket today have undergone some kind of thermal treat- ment in order to lighten the dark tone or to develop a stronger hue. Often sapphires are also diffused with chemical elements. This creates a superficial layer of strong blue color on a gem that would otherwise be pale and of little or no interest for the market. Controlled heating may also result in making cloudy sapphire be- come clearer by breaking up the inclusions, or it could also help develop the phenomenon of asterism. In the past, donating a sapphire to someone was a promise of loyalty, trust and purity. Today, sapphires are among the most popular gems everywhere in the world. Used to crown important moments of our lives, as protective talismans, as symbols, these are special gemstones, capable of producing strong emotions that each individual may translate based on their personal beliefs. Whether you may choose a sapphire or it may choose you, the “truest blue” will never fail you. Ancient Greeks dedicated sapphires to Zeus, the principal god of the Greek pantheon. A potent symbol of divine favor, nobility and truth, blue sapphire was often the choice of important kings and priests. It is said that the Ten Commandments that were given to Moses were inscribed on sapphire tablets. 117 PhotocourtesyofTHEODOROS©THEODOROS BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 119. 118 PhotocourtesyofAS29©AS29 BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 120. 119 BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
  • 121. 120 BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIVÉ©OMIPRIVÉ
  • 122. 121 Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of gold- smiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of polished and rough gem- stones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future. After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and the- ory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jew- elry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Man- agement Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva re- ceived special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -fa- mous professionals from around world. Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever ac- complished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jew- elry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make suc- cessful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gem- stone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gem- passionates. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems. Eva Kountouraki BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 123. 122 BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS PhotocourtesyofANTONINI©ANTONINI Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 124. OURFAVES In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life and in this issue, we chose to present them in a very visual way. - Address book at page 167 -
  • 126. 125 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 TIFFANY&CO.
  • 127. 126 OUR FAVES LEYLAABDOLLAHI Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 BOUCHERON POMELLATO CASPITA
  • 128. 127 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 GUMUCHIAN
  • 129. PICCHIOTTI 128 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 ZAFFIRO TIFFANY&CO. LEYLAABDOLLAHI
  • 131. 130 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 NIKOSKOULIS QEELIN MARTINKATZ MESSIKA
  • 132. 131 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 AS29
  • 133. 132 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 MAGERIT MARLI FARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY DJULA SETHICOUTURE
  • 135. 134 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 RICARDOBASTA ADLER LYDIACOURTEILLE CASPITA
  • 136. 135 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 JACKVARTANIAN
  • 137. 136 OUR FAVES GORALSKA Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 TIFFANY&CO.MARTINKATZ LETICIALINTON
  • 139. QEELIN ROBERTOCOIN 138 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 OMIPRIVÉ BOUCHERON
  • 140. 139 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 GUCCI GUCCI GUCCI
  • 141. 140 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 QEELIN SUTRA YANNISSERGAKIS CASPITA
  • 142. 141 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 ALEXANNABUTS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
  • 143. 142 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEP THEODOROS CARRERAYCARRERA PASQUALEBRUNI AS29
  • 144. 143 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 LEYLAABDOLLAHI
  • 145. MOUSSONATELIER 144 OUR FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 ZOLOTAS GORALSKA MICHAELARAM MICHAELARAM
  • 148. 147 Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jew- ellery scene, Pomellato was founded in 1967 thanks to the intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. The success story of this company runs parallel with the personality and unmistakable style of its creations, unique in their combination of stones, shapes, colours and impecca- ble artisan manufacture. In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewel- lery are recognized as icons. Nudo by Pomellato is one of the few. This ring, created in 2001, has re- mained an unmistakable classic over the years, as if it has existed forever. Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution in taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand. POMELLATO Purity that seduces time Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofPOMELLATO©POMELLATO
  • 149. In today’s ever changing world, few pieces of jewellery are recognized as icons. Nudo by Pomellato is one of the few. This ring, created in 2001, has remained an unmistakable classic over the years, as if it has existed forever. Yet the apparent simplicity of the Nudo collection is the result of a true revolution in taste and design. A trademark of the Milanese brand. Pomellato, founded in the 60’s had the se- cret from the very beginning. The secret of knowing how to break the rules in the tradi- tional world of jewellery. With a solid background in gold craftsman- ship, Pomellato dazzled and amazed with innovative, sensual jewellery that women want to wear everyday and change ac- cording to the styles of fashion: the first prêt-a-porter jewellery. An original style expressing itself through generous, cabochon cut, coloured gem- stones with proud setting. Like all true in- novators Pomellato has continued to amaze and enchant; and so with a new aesthetic the Nudo collection was cre- ated. A ring that could seem to be just a classic solitaire, but actually also has all the non- conformist characteristics of the brand.
 The gold ring is entirely rounded with a simple understated setting which seems to magically hold the stone so that it cre- ates the impression of being suspended, almost floating, to catch the light and re- flections on its specially faceted surface. A seemingly simple line that is actually the work of highly skilled craftsmanship: the setting and stone are registered copy- right. The collection was initially launched in 5 gemstones; now the range includes 13 different nuances, 3 sizes, Nudo Diamond and Nudo Solitaire. To celebrate the 10th anniversary, in 2011, Nudo was launched in a new Maxi version and the most recent additions are the Petit and Diamond interpretations, to enhance the signature design’s spectrum of colours and sizes. There are limitless ways to personalize the sculptural solitaire. Whether worn solo, or stacked in multiples to create an individ- ual statement, there is only one Nudo.
 You may slip off your dress, but the Nudo stays on your skin. 
 A story of creativity, consistency and visionary research Synonym of creativity and personality on the international jewellery scene, Pomel- lato was founded in 1967 thanks to the intuition of its founder, Pino Rabolini. Heir to a family of goldsmiths, Rabolini was the first to introduce the philosophy of prêt-à- porter into the world of jewellery, attribut- ing a strong distinctive identity to the brand, thanks to which Pomellato soon became renowned on the Italian market and in the rest of the world, becoming the fifth jewellery company in Europe and one of the biggest players in the entire sector at international level. Inspiration, artisan expertise and flair The success story of this company runs parallel with the personality and unmistak- able style of its creations, unique in their combination of stones, shapes, colours and impeccable artisan manufacture. Every new Pomellato collection is the ex- pression of surprising creativity that is al- ways visionary and often becomes a benchmark for the entire category. 148 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 150. 149 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofPOMELLATO©POMELLATO
  • 151. 150 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofPOMELLATO©POMELLATO
  • 152. With 620 employees, Pomellato has always entrusted a role of fundamental importance to the artisan manufacture of its jewels, using highly qualified artisans, today represented by over 100 goldsmiths at the headquarters in Milan. A success story Equally important are the entrepreneurial skills of the founder who, after having brilliantly headed the company for over 30 years, at the end of the nineties decided to hand leadership over to external management. In 2008 came another turning point: Rabolini met Andrea Morante, former COO at Gucci and investment banker for Credit Suisse and Morgan Stanley in London. Morante was appointed CEO of Pomellato and became a minority shareholder. Sergio Silvestris, a well-known and highly respected expert in the jewellery sector, was head of creativity for over 30 years, from 1980 to 2014. Sergio Silvestris started out as advertising manager and then extended his range of action to the image and creativity of jewellery. Some of his milestones are the charity project for the International Committee of the Red Cross in 1994-1995, the Nudo ring in 2001, brand icon known worldwide as synonym of Pomellato, in 2007 the Haute Cou- ture Pom Pom, comprising unique unrepeatable pieces and, in 2012, Pomellato 67, the special line of jewellery inspired by the reworking in silver of the maison’s classic style codes. Pomellato and the Kering Group In July 2013, Pomellato joined the Kering Group, world leader in apparel and accessories, Kering develops an ensemble of powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle brands: Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Bri- oni, Christopher Kane, McQ, Stella McCartney, Tomas Maier, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Dodo, Girard-Perregaux, Jean- Richard, Pomellato, Qeelin, Ulysse Nardin, Puma, Volcom, Cobra, Electric and Tretorn. By ‘empowering imagination’ in the fullest sense, Kering en- courages its brands to reach their potential, in the most sus- tainable manner. For more information about Pomellato visit the official website www.pomellato.com 151 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofPOMELLATO©POMELLATO
  • 153. 152 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofPOMELLATO©POMELLATO
  • 154. 153 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofPOMELLATO©POMELLATO
  • 155. 154 Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 PhotocourtesyofPOMELLATO©POMELLATO
  • 157. 156 AURORA BOREALIS Recently we said goodbye to the last full moon of summer. Aurora Borealis, the Northern lights will definitely illuminate the new season with amazing jewellery. - Address book at page 167 - Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 158. 157 CELESTIAL FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 LYDIACOURTEILLE DOVESBYDORONPALOMA PASQUALEBRUNI
  • 159. 158 CELESTIAL FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 YOKOLONDON DJULA LYDIACOURTEILLE
  • 160. 159 CELESTIAL FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 JACKVARTANIAN LETICIALINTON DJULA
  • 161. 160 CELESTIAL FAVES Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015 LYDIACOURTEILLE LEVIAN SUTRA
  • 164. ULYSSE NARDIN Ulysse Nardin Marks Artemis Racing Partnership with Commemorative Marine Diver PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 165. The America’s Cup is the most important yachting competition of all time, and for the event’s 35th year, Ulysse Nardin sails into the sport as an official partner of Sweden’s Artemis Racing. To celebrate the land- mark collaboration, the timepiece manufacture is launching an exclu- sive line of the iconic Marine Diver. Vivid in deep-ocean blue with bursts of signature Artemis Racing yel- low, the limited edition of 250 timekeepers was revealed in Gothenburg, Sweden, host to the America’s Cup World Series. This preliminary com- petition, held on August 28-30, is a fitting atmosphere to reveal the new Marine Diver Artemis Racing watch. Since the beginning, only four countries have won the America’s Cup – the United States, Australia, New Zealand and Switzerland. Artemis Racing is striving to be the Cup’s new steward, bringing it to Europe and Sweden for the first time; and Ulysse Nardin is very proud to sup- port this historical endeavor – and commemorate it with a collectible timepiece. “Ulysse Nardin’s history of navigating the sea, paired with the DNA of innovation and technology, which is firmly established in both compa- nies, makes this partnership a perfect match,” says Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin. “When meeting the Artemis engineers, techni- cians, and craftsmen at their base in San Francisco, I quickly realized that the spirit of passion and innovation is the driving force behind this extraordinary team.” The energy and ingenuity of the Artemis Racing team is mirrored in this special execution of the Marine Diver, made for the milestone moment. Presenting a sleek yet durable mixture of textures, including stainless steel and rubber, the piece is ideal for yachtsmen who welcome the fiercest of competition. Reflecting love for the sport while honoring the occasion is the original pattern on the watch’s face; here, vessels seem to float on the sea as if awaiting their turn to set sail. Highlighting the partnership is the Artemis Racing insignia and “Challenger 35th Amer- ica’s Cup Artemis Racing” tribute. These details, alongside the bold hour markers, hands and strap accented in yellow, with the Artemis Racing logo just below the dial, show a highly personal connection be- tween the brand and the team. Reinforcing the nautical roots of each is the intricate wave pattern around the dial. 164 The America’s Cup is the most important yachting competition of all time, and for the event’s 35th year, Ulysse Nardin sails into the sport as an official partner of Sweden’s Artemis Racing. Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 166. Boasting exceptional water resistance to 300 me- ters, made possible thanks to the screw-locked crown and case-back, it also features a unidirec- tional rotating bezel, which prevents any acciden- tal adjustment to the dive time. Forty-four millime- ters in diameter and powered by the UN-26 self- winding base caliber, the timepiece offers a power reserve indicator, small seconds register and a date display at 6 o’clock, among other pre- cise functionality. Complex in its DNA, robust in its aesthetic, the Marine Diver Artemis Racing is the watch for the yachtsman in all of us. Whether we are avid par- ticipators in the sport or watch from the shore- line, Ulysse Nardin celebrates the sailor spirit by way of this partnership and its celebratory time- piece. The Marine Diver Artemis Racing is available through Ulysse Nardin’s worldwide retail network. www.ulysse-nardin.com 165 PhotoscourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 169. 168 ADLER JOAILLIERS www.adler.ch ALEX SOLDIER www.alexsoldier.com ANTONINI www.antonini.it AS29 www.as29.com BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com CASPITA www.caspita.ch DOVES BY DORON PALOMA www.dovesjewelry.com DJULA www.djula.fr ENTICE www.entice.in ETHO MARIA www.ethomaria.com FABERGE www.faberge.com FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com GORALSKA JOAILLERIE www.goralska.com GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces www.guccitimeless.com GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com INEDIT JOAILLIER www.inedit-joaillier.fr JACK VARTANIAN www.jackvartanian.com LETICIA LINTON www.lbldesign.com.br LEYLA ABDOLLAHI www.leyla-abdollahi.com LE VIAN www.levian.com LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com MAGERIT www.mageritjoyas.com MARLI www.marlinyc.com MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com MASSIMO IZZO www.massimoizzo.com MESSIKA www.messika.com MICHAEL ARAM www.michaelaram.com MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru MATHON www.mathon-paris.com NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr NOUDAR www.noudar.com OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com POMELLATO www.pomellato.com PICCHIOTTI http://www.picchiotti.it QEELIN www.qeelin.com ROBERTO COIN www.robertocoin.com RICARDO BASTA www.ricardobasta.com SETHI COUTURE www.sethicouture.com SOTHEBY’S www.sothebys.com SUTRA www.sutrajewels.com THEODOROS www.theodoros.com.gr TIFFANY & CO. www.tiffany.com ULYSSE NARDIN www.ulysse-nardin.com YANNIS SERGAKIS www.yannissergakis.com YOKO LONDON www.yokolondon.com YEPREM www.yepremjewellery.com ZAFFIRO www.zaffirojewelry.com ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr ADDRESSBOOK Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 170. Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier --- Contributors Eva Kountouraki, Martin Huynh, Christina Rodopoulou --- Creative Jewellery Historian Production Jewellery Historian Publishing Jewellery Historian & 16ml --- Photo agencies Shutterstock, Pixabay, The stocks --- Advertising info@jewelleryhistorian.com Website www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-mail info@jewelleryhistorian.com --- Published & Distributed in collaboration with 16ml --- FREE DIGITAL COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2014-2015 All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibil- ity for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inac- curate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jew- ellery Historian” and/or logo, may not be reproduced without prior consent. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected un- der applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual prop- erty laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the com- pany are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages & e- magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemol- ogy, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or maga- zine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. 169 facebook.com/jewelryhistorian instagram.com/jewellery_historian twitter.com/jhmag_official pinterest.com/jhmagazine Jewellery Historian 13 ® HOLBOX/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Cover jewellery & photo by Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 171. 170 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS We would like to thank all who have contributed to the compilation of this issue. It would not have been accomplished without their significant con- tribution. The successful publication that owes a great deal to the profes- sionals in the creative industry who have given us precious insights and feedbacks. And to the many others whose names are not credited but have made specific input in this issue, we thank you for your continuous support. Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015
  • 172. 171 Stand up for their promotion Stand up for their protection #Committed to Heritage and Creativity A campaign led with the support of the French customs United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization