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Jewellery Historian
17
INSIDE THIS ISSUE
1
“At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we
feature exclusively jewellery designers,
brands and artists whose work is
exceptional and of the highest quality.”
Jewellery Historian
17 Wacomka / SHUTTERSTOCK . COM
2
21
In his The Art of Creativity column, Olivier Dupon
introduces us to Michelle Ong who has been
creating beautiful and collectable jewellery for
Carnet over the last two decades. As a designer of
high jewellery, Michelle Ong focuses on the perfect
combination of precious stones, remarkable
craftsmanship and memorable designs.
The January Jewellery auction at Christie’s South
Kensington will offer 256 lots of jewellery and
diamond-set wristwatches, including a wide
selection of modern and collectable jewellery from
the 19th century and Art Deco period to the
present day. A great auction to find amazing jewelry
of exceptional beauty. Discover more in our News.
10
Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2016 © CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2016
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
The New Year, for many, marks a new beginning. It
is a time of renewal. A time to make right all that
we did wrong last year.  It is a time of new hope.
Our editor-in-chief in his Editor’s Letter, welcomes
you and invites you to discover the revised
Jewellery Historian and the latest issue of the “Best
kept secret in the world of luxury”.
7
Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos
Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
---
Columnists
Eva Kountouraki ( Breathtaking beauty of Gems )
Olivier Dupon (The art of creativity )
---
Contributors
Martin Huynh , Christina Rodopoulou
---
Creative Jewellery Historian
Production Jewellery Historian
Publishing 16ml & Homo Evolution
---
Photo agencies Shutterstock, Pixabay, Freepik,The stocks
Cover Svetlanamiku / Shutterstock. com
---
Advertising info@jewelleryhistorian.com
Website www.jewelleryhistorian.com
E-mail info@jewelleryhistorian.com
---
FREE DIGITAL COPY / NOT FOR SALE
JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2016
Jewellery Historian
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tions without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials,
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They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands.
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signers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Histo-
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trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks
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for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of
copyright law.
4
In her Breathtaking beauty of gems column, Eva
Kountouraki talks about a gemstone that was given
the nickname “the great impostor”. It has been sold,
bought, stolen, inherited, and thought of as another
gem for many many years. However it survived and
rose to the heart of the people as an important
gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be named
by its own name and praised for its unique
qualities; it’s the beautiful spinel.
53
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
An “esthète” is a person who has or professes to
have refined sensitivity toward the beauties of art or
nature. In each issue, discover the personal choice
of our editor-in-chief, in his esthète column.
PhotocourtesyofYOKOLONDON©YOKOLONDON
59
Previously a connoisseur’s secret, Maria Kovadi
Fine Jewellery is presented to the wider audience at
Baselworld 2016. But at the Jewellery Historian we
are honored to be among the first to present the
exceptional work of this talented and unique artist.
61
95
Celebrity favorites, Maria Lucia Hohan’s dresses
are spotted on the red carpet at almost all
Hollywood events that make headlines. To welcome
our new S comme Style column, we chose to
introduce you Maria Lucia Hohan, an important
name among the new wave of fashion designers and
a designer we love for her creations and talent.
For our new column Exceptional Timepieces
BVLGARI clothes its LVCEA collection in brilliant
and glamorous High Jewellery attire and introduces
us the two new seductive creations of the LVCEA
watch,gentle and graceful as powerful and
sophisticated and a tribute to luminous brightness,
through an aesthetic that harnesses the power of
light
87
Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI
PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
5
Mousson Atelier was founded in Saint Petersburg,
Russia, in 2008. The atelier came into being as a
result of an alliance of professionals with over 20
years of experience in creating jewelry and
collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson
Atelier preserves the family tradition of innovation
and creates jewelry in a modern and classic style.
Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are
the key principles of the company.
69
In every issue, for Jewels we Love, we handpick the
finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to
add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most
important times of your life. Previously known as
“Our Faves”, this new column introduces you to
our favorite jewellery, designed by the most talented
jewellery designers.
107
6
In every issue, Inspirations, introduce you to the
latest trends in interior design, prêt-à-porter,
accessories, travel, books and lifestyle. This new
columns welcomes our new strategy to feature the
best of design, as requested by you, our readers.
135
Our Address Book in the end of our issue contains
all brands featured in this issue and the official
websites where you can find more information
about each brand.
Pugovica88/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Jewellery Historian | EDITOR’S LETTER
8
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
The New Year, for many, marks a new beginning. It is a time of renewal. A time to make
right all that we did wrong last year. It is a time of new hope.
The same applies also to the Jewellery Historian. When I decided to create this magazine,
I did it with a passion for knowledge and critical inquiry, while searching new and innova-
tive ways of delivering information that can resonate long after publication, combined to a
uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling.
2016, marks new and important changes in our magazine. First of all, because we decided
that our magazine will be bimonthly. This was made to offer to our readers the best possi-
ble reading experience and to our business partners the best possible exposure.
The second reason, is because the jewellery designers, brands and artists we choose to
showcase in every issue, whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality, need an
exceptional and minimal way to reach their audience. This is why at the Jewellery Historian
we focus on aesthetics and to the creativity of the designers, by letting their creations to
speak for themselves, rather that surrounding them with distractions and other imagery.
To reach our international audience, a connected community of decision makers, connois-
seurs with enhanced refinement, we decided to redesign both our magazine and website.
Our readership, has until now been accumulated only by word-of-mouth and in short time
reached an international audience due to the professional knowledge, the high quality con-
tent and exceptional aesthetics of our team. We are honored of your support and we know
that without your support this magazine who promotes, inspires and educates would not
exist without your precious support.
You will immediately notice the dynamism and beauty of this new layout. The “navigation”
has been completely revamped and simplified to promote a more modern and more
friendly approach, both in our magazine and website.
We have chosen to focus to creativity. With a minimal design, that offers to the reader a
unique reading experience, the Jewellery Historian aims to be a powerful way to introduce
the unique universe of jewellery & timepieces to the new digital generation and to be a ref-
erence for the jewellery & timepieces lovers, while contributing in strengthening social capi-
tal by improving the knowledge, skills, confidence, motivation, networks and resources.
My best wishes to you all for this new year, for a year full of love, joy and prosperity.
EDITOR’S LETTER
CONTRIBUTORS
INSIDE THIS ISSUE
9
As long as he could remember, Olivier Du-
pon has always been passionate about
how ideas can translate into designs, and
as a result, he is fascinated by the umpteen
creative approaches taken by many inde-
pendent practitioners. He is now an expert
in the fields of lifestyle and fashion, reveling
in exposing these talents to a wider audi-
ence. While he began his career at Chris-
tian Dior, and then worked as a buyer and
project manager for several large retail
companies before running his own lifestyle
boutique for several years, now based in
London, he scouts international markets in
search of exciting names in Art & Craft,
with a focus on jewellery makers and splen-
did precious designs.
His previous books include The New Arti-
sans (2011), The New Jewelers (2012), The
New Pâtissiers (2013), Floral Contemporary
(2014), Encore! The New Artisans (2015),
and Shoe: Contemporary Footwear by In-
spiring Designers (2015) all published by
Thames & Hudson. His new book on luxury
jewellery will be published in Autumn 2016.
For the Jewellery Historian, in his The Art of
Creativity column, Olivier Dupon exposes
inspiring, intriguing at time, and captivating
stories through the presentation of talents
or the exposé of current topics, all centered
around creativity in today’s high-end fine
jewelry.
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very
young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led
her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of pol-
ished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession
in the future.
After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in
Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit
those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of
America), for her studies.
Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and
identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestig-
ious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in dia-
mond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate
Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry
Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the
jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design.
Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian
branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists
of GIA Italy, New York and California, US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology
and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds,
gems and jewelry to her students-famous professionals from around world.
Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in
the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva
is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and
helping her clients to make successful buys and investments in gemstones. She also organ-
izes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople
and gem-passionates. For the Jewellery Historian, in her The breathtaking beauty of gems
column, she introduces you to a breathtaking gemstone in every issue.
NEWS
10
Jewellery Historian
PeterKotoff/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ULYSSE NARDIN
11
Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Cheerful
“Year of the Monkey” Timepiece
Playful and happy, the monkey’s spirit overflows with
personality. Always curious, notoriously mischievous and
especially clever, the monkey is the ninth animal in the
Chinese Zodiac. Ulysse Nardin honors its exuberant
essence with the “Year of the Monkey” timepiece, the
latest addition to its Classico Collection.
Designed in a comic strip-like style to best capture the
lively creature’s character, the dial is the center of
attention as the monkey appears to leap through a brush
of palm fronds. Its expression is alert, its body is lithe,
and the early workings of an impish grin begin to
emerge. It is the champlevé method of enameling that
brings the artist’s sketch to life.
A rare art form and one mastered by very few, the
champlevé technique consists of cells being carved with
a chisel directly on the dial and filled with enamel. Its
colors are generated from different metallic oxides, and
for this piece, a neutral palette has been selected. The
piece is then fired until the enamel melts.
Ulysse Nardin has been bringing this realism to its dials
for more than 25 years and is one of the only
watchmakers devoted to the centuries-old craft. It is
mastered in-house at Donzé Cadrans, a member of the
Ulysse Nardin group of companies.
The Classico Collection hosts a suite of original
enameled pieces revered and collected by many. For
2016, Ulysse Nardin is pleased to introduce the “Year of
the Monkey”, a limited edition of 88 pieces in 18-karat
rose gold. Features include the self-winding UN-815
movement and COSC-certified chronometer.
A joyful timepiece, one cannot help but smile when
checking the time.
12
PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN
CHRISTIE’S SOUTH KENSINGTON
13
The January Jewellery auction
The January Jewellery auction at Christie’s South
Kensington will offer 256 lots of jewellery and diamond-
set wristwatches, including a wide selection of modern
and collectable jewellery from the 19th century and Art
Deco period to the present day.
Highlights include a 19th century diamond riviėre
necklace (estimate £15,000-20,000), a pair of old-cut
diamond single stone earrings (estimate £5,000-7,000),
an emerald and diamond cluster ring (estimate
£6,000-8,000) and a coloured diamond and diamond
bracelet (estimate £5,000-7,000).
The sale also features a collection of signed jewels such
as an attractive pair of enamel and diamond clip
brooches by Boucheron (estimate £6,000-8,000), a
morganite and gem brooch by Chaumet (estimate
£2,000-3,000), as well as a selection of diamond
jewellery by Bulgari, Buccellati and Chopard. Other
signed jewels include pieces by Cartier, Mouawad, Van
Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co and Jahan.
Christie’s South Kensington hosts seven jewellery
auctions a year, offering new and existing clients regular
opportunities to acquire jewels for occasions and every
day, original and unique engagement rings, and gifts.
The sales offer a variety of watches and jewellery
ranging from collectable antique jewels, as well as fine
period jewellery from the Art Deco and Belle Epoque
periods, through to contemporary pieces. Notable
jewelers such as Cartier, Chopard, Rolex, Bulgari,
Chanel, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Pomellato, David Webb
and Tiffany feature regularly. Pre-auction viewings open
the weekend before the sale and anyone is welcome to
come in and browse the sale, to try on the pieces and
speak to our specialists. Christie’s South Kensington is
also open late on Mondays. With estimates ranging from
£500 up to around £25,000, there is a jewel for every
taste and budget.
Jewellery | Christie’s South Kensington
Jan 20, 2016 | Sale 11526
14
PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016©CHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016
Lot 217 
TWO ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BROOCHES, BY
BOUCHERON
Each designed as a rose, the guilloché red or green enamel
petals, with pear-shaped diamond detail, to the pavé-set
diamond leaves and baguette-cut diamond stem, circa 1960,
French assay marks , 6.8 cm
Each signed Boucheron Paris, red one no. 13832.55
Estimate: £6,000 - 8,000
15
Lot 4   
A LATE 19TH CENTURY DIAMOND SWALLOW BROOCH
The body and wings set with graduated old-cut diamonds, with
rose-cut diamond wing tips, the head with cabochon ruby eyes and
yellow gold beak, detachable brooch fitting, circa 1880, 4.0cm, in
fitted case
Estimate: £1,500 - 2,000
PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016©CHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016
16
Lot 2
A VICTORIAN DIAMOND RIVIÉRE NECKLACE
Composed of a series of fifty four graduated old-cut diamond
collets, mounted in silver and yellow gold, circa 1850, 39.0cm, in
fitted case
Estimate: £15,000 - 20,000
PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016©CHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016
GUCCI
17
Fashionable and Urban :
GUCCI Timepieces releases suite of G-Frame variants
Echoing the playful yet polished mood depicted in
Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2016 runway collections, Gucci
Timepieces & Jewelry is pleased to release stylish new
variants of the feminine G-Frame timepiece. These new
watches are fitted with a double-loop strap, and come in
a variety of designs, from sporty, to classic to urban.
Recognizable by its neat beveled square case and
minimalist dial, the suite of new G-Frame variants shows
how by simply switching materials, the mood of the
watch can change.
Inspired by the Gucci green-red-green web stripe, the
sportiest model displays the two-tone canvas on the
wraparound strap and matching dial, set within a yellow
gold PVD case. The brightly colored racing stripe is
perfect for the clean, lean G-Frame design, and the
result is dynamic and streamlined.


The new G-Frame with a brown calfskin looped strap,
polished gold PVD case and mother of pearl dial creates
a classic look with a chic and feminine appeal. As a
contrast, the black variant offers a more urban aesthetic,
seen in the black dial and black leather wraparound strap
embellished with metal studs. On these two leather
versions, Gucci’s new motif, the honeybee, is present
next to the clasp, in matching yellow or stainless steel.
Each timepiece shows the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock, the
“Swiss Made” stamp at 6 o’clock and “G” insignia on the
crown, and Gucci’s new honeybee symbol engraved on
the case back.
18
PhotocourtesyofGUCCI©GUCCI
ULYSSE NARDIN
19
Ulysse Nardin opens a flagship Boutique
in Abuja, Nigeria
Luxury Swiss watch manufacturer Ulysse Nardin, the leader in timepiece
invention and innovation, announced the opening of a mono-brand
Boutique in Abuja, the capital of Nigeria.
The official opening took place on December 10th attended by 300 guests
including Dr. Daniel Cavegn, Deputy Head of Mission accompanied by
several members of the Nigerian government. Mr. Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of
Ulysse Nardin and Mr. Deremi Ajidahun, local partner of the brand, were
very enthusiastic.
It is with great honor that Ulysse Nardin opens its first mono-brand boutique
in Africa, namely in Nigeria, Abuja. Having a great following and many
Ulysse Nardin enthusiasts in Nigeria, we decided to bring the Ulysse
Nardin experience close to the watch connoisseurs in Abuja. In this new
boutique, some of the most unique and exclusive timepieces will be on
display, specified Patrik Hoffmann.
Located on Gana street, the most attractive place with luxury stores and
hotels, the 50 square meters Boutique is designed as homage to the
company’s nautical heritage. Decorated with wood furniture, timepieces are
displayed in portholes.
The boutique features iconic timepieces like Perpetual Calendar, where the
calendar can be set forward and backward with ease, the Freak, which tells
time by its movement, not by its hands and the astronomical wristwatch
Moonstruck. Watch aficionados can also find the innovative Ulysse Anchor
Tourbillon recently crowned with Tourbillon Prize by the Grand Prix
d’Horlogerie de Genève and the brand’s finest timepieces including
Stranger, Sonata, Classico, Dual Time Manufacture and Jade for ladies.
And, the Marine collection that anchors Ulysse Nardin’s past to the ocean
with today’s exemplary Marine Chronometer Manufacture.
This boutique unveiling in Nigeria is the third this year for Ulysse Nardin
with the new boutique in Miami Design District and the one in Dubai. The
beholder of six exquisite families of watches, Ulysse Nardin will flow
forward, stretching the limits of design, engineering and technology, and, of
course, surprising watch fans around the globe.
20
PhotoscourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN
21
THE ART OF CREATIVIT Y
Carnet by Michelle Ong
by Olivier Dupon
Michelle Ong has been creating beautiful and collectable
jewellery for Carnet over the last two decades. As a designer of
high jewellery, Michelle Ong focuses on the perfect combination
of precious stones, remarkable craftsmanship and memorable
designs.
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
22
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
She is one who delights in beauty so much that she had to create some, a contribution
to all things beautiful in the form of hyper feminine haute joaillerie. It is Carnet by Mi-
chelle Ong, an enchanting treasure trove of exquisite jewels, part delicate constructions
with a lace, gossamer-thin quality to them, part bold concertos of scintillating gem-
stones. A dual aspect that heralds a measured flamboyance, jewellery that one wants
to wear as well as collect, jewellery that empowers rather than overpowers.
‘Jewellery designing is what I am meant to do; in some ways it is like being an
alchemist.  I am passionate about  combining beautiful elements together to create a
new fabulous jewel. It's magical. It was certainly a revelation,’ she says, ‘but not a sud-
den one. I always loved jewellery. When I returned to Hong Kong after university, I de-
cided to work with gemstones. Their beauty and special qualities inspired me to design;
first for myself, later for friends, who asked me to create pieces for them. Then I knew it
was something I simply had to do.’
Carnet was founded in 1998 when Michelle partnered with Avi Nagar. To this
day, the collaboration has been a match made in heaven, with Michelle being able to
focus on the creative side of the business, which she does by writing the storied
House’s DNA a piece at a time. ‘I really only work to my own high standards and strive
to stay true to my creative vision’, she shares. ‘To me jewellery should be sumptuous,
alluring and remarkable, whether the design is more architectural or very romantic.
That is why I make sure that the essence of Carnet is incorporated into each piece I
design.’
This essence has a slight old-world refinement, think La Belle Époque as hinted
in the luminescent ‘Floating Diamonds’ necklace that is a feat of craftsmanship. It show-
cases matching rose-cut diamonds that look as if they are afloat on the neckline. It is
such a complex project that it literally took years to achieve the setting, but Michelle, in
always putting her concepts before feasibility considerations, was finally able to do it. It
takes faith in the power of imagination - the notion that ideas are designs in waiting. ‘I
am very free in my designs. If I have an idea, I am determined to find a way to make
the piece’, she adds.
Sometimes Michelle is inspired by a special gemstone, a flower, a beautiful line
or just her vivid daydreams, but whatever the thought, she keeps a notebook with her
all the time so she can record it all. And when it is time to materialize the piece, she
says she starts to play with the different elements such as ‘the design, how it sits, the
intensity and feeling. When I am satisfied, we make the piece in our own workshop.
The finished piece has to be perfect. I will break it apart and begin again if I don't think
it's truly Carnet’, she notes.
Even though Carnet by Michelle Ong is universal in spirit, one can notice the
Chinese and Asian influences that routinely surround Michelle: flowers, Chinese lattice
motifs, or a beautiful blue and white screen, as depicted in the intricate ‘Azure Lattice’
bracelet. ‘I love to create bejewelled "gardens" by combining fantasy flowers as in my
‘Wild Meadow Flower’ brooch. It is feminine yet bold, a reference to nature's beauty,
but with a Carnet twist.
Varied precious stones intensify the lush colours of the petals and leaves’, she
describes, ‘and it represents the sparkle you see in the garden at first light when the
dew is still apparent.’ However whatever source of inspiration, it is always a subtle trib-
“Jewellery designing
is what I am meant
to do; in some ways
it is like being an
alchemist. I am pas-
sionate about com-
bining beautiful ele-
ments together to cre-
ate a new fabulous
jewel. It's magical. It
was certainly a reve-
lation”.
23
24
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Wild Meadow Flower Brooch
White diamond, amethyst, pink and blue sapphire, ruby
and spinel brooch in 18K white gold and titanium
25
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Sometimes Michelle
is inspired by a spe-
cial gemstone, a
flower, a beautiful
line or just her vivid
d a y d r e a m s , b u t
w h a t e v e r t h e
thought, she keeps a
notebook with her all
the time so she can
record it all.
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
26
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
27
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Sparkling Sunlight Pendant
Yellow sapphire, fancy intense orangy yellow, yellow and
white diamond pendant/brooch in platinum, 18K white
gold and titanium with white and yellow diamond chain
in 18K white gold
28
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Brilliant Diamond Earrings
Light yellow and white diamond earrings in platinum
ute to her heritage, not a literal one, as she is able to emancipate cultural symbols and
propel them into a contemporary dimension.
Besides Carnet was the first jeweller to use titanium in their designs, recognis-
ing the material’s strength and lightness, a revolutionary move at the time. Soldering
machines weren’t available when they first began to work with titanium over twenty
years ago, and they have adhered to their traditional methods to this day. Meticulous
handwork, using screws to hold components in place, is a formula that in itself adds
beauty to the piece. ‘High Jewellery must be beautiful in form, function, storytelling,
craftsmanship and presentation,’ she ponders, ‘it should be part of its moment in time
yet timeless. My aim is, and has always been, to show the jewel as a true art form.
And perhaps, most of all Jewellery should connect with the viewer or wearer, both visu-
ally and emotionally.’
Naturally Michelle tends not to follow trends – either design or market ones -
since she has always created the jewellery that she would personally wear, and this
has been an unwavering guiding principle to this day. Furthermore she squarely consid-
ers jewellery as an art form, and as such her renditions cannot be catalogued or timed.
This may be the reason why she was asked to create the iconic jewellery for "The Da
Vinci Code" movie and why her work has been shown in retrospective exhibitions at
Asia House, the Natural History Museum in London and at the Burrell Collection in
Glasgow. ‘Jewellery design, like art, is an expression of personal aesthetic, a view of
the world. I want all my designs to stand as individual pieces of collectible art. Yet
there is something intensely personal about buying a jewel; while the emotional connec-
tion to a jewel may be similar to the connection to an artwork, there is more physicality
involved in jewellery. It has to be beautiful yet wearable and has to feel comfortable to
move with the body to fit with the client’s lifestyle, their personal style and wardrobe, so
this brings other considerations to the purchase. Then, there’s the age-old talismanic
association of the jewel, which adds an extra dimension. I like to think my signature aes-
thetic creates a tangible artful fantasy.’
It appears that the women, who wear Carnet, connect with the quality, feminin-
ity, the unique character and artistic integrity of Michelle’s creations, and evidently noth-
ing makes her happier than seeing her designs worn by those who have an apprecia-
tion for creativity, design and craftsmanship. So when JAR in person, - the elusive, cult-
status jeweller for the aesthete elite of this world - writes: ‘Madame Ong's jewels are
mouth-watering. There are Chinese clouds utterly different from ours, in scrolls of dia-
monds; unexpected blackness with reds and greens making ferocious, billowing drag-
ons we will remember; diamonds again trickling about a neck and slipping down wrists;
geometry, monsters, flora, colour, a free hand making things we have never seen and
will keep forever’, it becomes the ultimate seal of approval.
As a matter of fact, Carnet by Michelle Ong may be one of those rare enter-
prises that appeals to the spirit through the eyes.
For further information, visit www.carnetjewellery.com
Naturally Michelle
tends not to follow
trends – either de-
sign or market ones -
since she has always
created the jewellery
that she would per-
sonally wear, and
this has been an un-
wavering guiding
principle to this day.
29
30
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Ocean Night Earrings
Pink and purple sapphire, white diamond and amethyst earrings in
18K white gold and titanium
31
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
32
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
“I love to create be-
jewelled "gardens"
by combining fan-
tasy flowers as in my
‘ W i l d M e a d o w
Flower’ brooch. It is
feminine yet bold, a
reference to nature's
beauty, but with a
Carnet twist.”
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
33
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
34
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
White Organdy Necklace
White diamond necklace in platinum
35
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Moonstone in the Clouds Earrings
Moonstone, white diamond and blue sapphire earrings in 18K white
gold and silver
36
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Moonstone in the Clouds Bangle
Moonstone, white diamond and blue sapphire bangle in 18K white
gold and silver
37
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Grandeur Diamond Ring
White diamond ring in platinum
38
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Winter Poppy Earrings
White diamond earrings in 18K white gold
39
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Giverny Brooch
Emerald and white diamond brooch/pendant in 18K white gold
40
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Entwined in Time
White diamond timepiece in 18K white gold
41
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Floating Diamonds Necklace
White diamond necklace in platinum
42
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Precious Petal Earrings
White diamond earrings in 18K white gold
43
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Sparkling Lotus Bangle
White diamond, green garnet and emerald bangle in platinum
44
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Azure Lattice Bracelet
White diamond and blue sapphire bracelet in platinum and titanium
45
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Forbidden Fruit Brooch
Coral ball, white and fancy yellow diamond, spinel, ruby and orange
sapphire brooch in 18K white and yellow gold
46
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Fancy Floral Ring
Fancy intense pink and white diamond ring in platinum
47
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
48
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Emerald Embrace Timepiece
Emerald and white diamond timepiece in 18K white gold
49
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Pure Sparkle Necklace
White and light yellow diamond, blue, pink, purple and
yellow sapphire necklace in 18K white gold and titanium
50
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Majestic Sapphire ring
Blue sapphire, white diamond, pink and purple sapphire in
18K white gold and titanium
51
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Diamond Sea Nymph Earrings
White diamond earrings in platinum
52
PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
Diamond Fantasy Brooch
White diamond brooch in platinum and 18K white gold
SPINEL
BREATHTAKING BEAUT Y OF GEMS
53
by Eva Kountouraki
It was given the nickname “the great impostor”. It
has been sold, bought, stolen, inherited, and thought
of as another gem for many many years. However it
survived and rose to the heart of the people as an im-
portant gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be
named by its own name and praised for its unique
qualities; it’s the beautiful spinel.
54
Necklace "Princesse de
B a b y l o n e " b y A d l e r
Joailliers, in 18kt white
gold and mother-of-pearl
set with one cabochon spi-
nel 70.49 cts and 481 dia-
monds 11.56 cts
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
It was given the nickname “the great impostor”. It has been sold,
bought, stolen, inherited, and thought of as another gem for many
many years. However it survived and rose to the heart of the peo-
ple as an important gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be
named by its own name and praised for its unique qualities; it’s the
beautiful spinel.
For centuries, people were mining ruby and spinel crystals
in the same sources and considered the whole production to be
ruby. In fact, before modern gemology was developed, people
used only the colour of the gems to categorize and identify them.
As a result, every red gem was called ruby, every blue gem was
considered to be sapphire, all yellows were topaz, and so on.
Some of these gems of “mysterious” personality adorn historically
important jewelry pieces. One such gem is the “Black Prince’s
Ruby” named after Edward, Prince of Wales - the “Black Prince”-
who received the stone in 1367 as payment for a battle victory.
Many years later, this exceptional gem was identified as spinel,
and a quite large one, with the size of an egg. This gem is now set
on the front of Britain's Imperial State Crown, right above the mag-
nificent Cullinan II diamond, and below the beautiful St. Edward's
Sapphire.
Another historically significant gem that was thought to be
a ruby but eventually turned out to be spinel is the so-called
“Timur Ruby” also referred to with the powerful name “Khiraj-
i-alam” meaning “tribute to the world”. This is an important
spinel with an impressive weight of over 360cts, that
until 1851 was erroneously considered to be the
world’s largest ruby.. It is set as a centerpiece in a
necklace that is part of the British Crown jewels.
This gem’s large surface allowed enough space
for the inscription of the names and dates of 6
of its previous owners.
Traditional sources of spinel include central
and Southeast Asia, like Tajikistan –home of
the above mentioned gems- Afghanistan, My-
anmar, Sri Lanka and Thailand. East Africa
has risen to become a very important pro-
ducer of spinel, with Tanzania, among oth-
ers, having produced – and still producing,
some of the world’s highest quality spinels of
breathtaking beauty.
Many spinel crystals are so perfect in their
rough form that in Burma they are said to be
“nat thwe” or “polished by the spirits”. Their crys-
tal habit is a beautiful octahedron often with sharp
and well-shaped edges that have given it its name.
In fact, “spinel” most probably derives from the Latin
word “spina” which means thorn, as a reference to the
Some of these gems
of “mysterious” per-
sonality adorn his-
torically important
jewelry pieces. One
such gem is the
“ B l a c k P r i n c e ’ s
Ruby” named after
Edward, Prince of
Wales - the “Black
Prince”- who re-
ceived the stone in
1367 as payment for
a battle victory.
55
Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
“Gothic” collection
ring with red spinel
by Magerit
PhotocourtesyofMAGERIT©MAGERIT
PhotocourtesyofMATHONPARIS©MATHONPARIS
Arôme ring with red spinel and
diamonds by Mathon Paris
56
Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
points of the rough. Other etymological analyses of this name say
that it may have derived from the Greek word for sparkle, referring
to red spinel’s intense coloration.
Spinel comes in various colours, ranging from light pink to
purple, down to blue and even black, with the strong red hue being
the most desired and valued one. It is an important gemstone with
a very interesting and often bloody history. A durable gem that
takes a high luster and withstands everyday use, and a beauty that
can be both steely and fiery. A spinel was chosen to head the Rus-
sian Great Imperial crown; one large and rare spinel of over
398cts, that majestically sits on top of approximately 5000 polished
diamonds, a double row of fine pearls and seven of the most his-
toric stones of Russia’s diamond collection.
Since 1783 when mineralogist Jean Baptiste Louis Rome
de Lisle identified spinel as a different mineral than ruby, this spe-
cial gem has slowly climbed its way to the place it merits in the de-
signs of gem cutters and high-end jewelry makers. After all these
years of turbulent history, tales and lore, it is about time to give spi-
nel its righteous place among the important gems in our markets.
And this doesn’t take much, just one look at the fiery East African
reds and pinks will gain spinel a central position to every gem
lover’s heart... And we will continue being awestruck and surprised
with the heartwarming emotions that nature offers so generously.
A spinel was chosen
to head the Russian
Great Imperial
crown; one large
and rare spinel of
over 398cts, that ma-
jestically sits on top
of approximately
5000 polished dia-
monds, a double row
of fine pearls and
seven of the most his-
toric stones of Rus-
sia’s diamond collec-
tion.
57
PhotocourtesyofMARTINKATZ©MARTINKATZ
Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
Emerald cut gray spinel of
10.29 carats ring by Mar-
tin Katz, set in 18K white
gold, surrounded by a bor-
der of micro-set white dia-
monds and a band of
black diamonds, ame-
thysts, blue spinels and
purple sapphires.
58
Catherine II by Alexey An-
tropov with the Russian
Great Imperial crown
(left)
PhotoinPUBLICDOMAIN
Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
esthète
59
a person who has or professes to have refined sensitivity
toward the beauties of art or nature.
EDITOR’S CHOICE
60
An exceptional necklace by YOKO London
MARIA KOVADI
COUP DE CŒUR
61
"All, everything that I understand, I
only understand because I love." —
LeoTolstoy
62
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKOVADI©MARIAKOVADI
Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur
Previously a connoisseur’s secret, Maria Kovadi Fine Jewel-
lery is presented to the wider audience at Baselworld 2016. The
Swiss-based high-end jewellery house caters to the most discern-
ing clientele wishing to highlight their individuality and distinctive
thinking. Italian craftsmanship translates the poetry of the de-
signer's vision into innovative, playful, extravagant and enchanting
creations, which come made-to-order or in a limited edition.
Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled in each crea-
tion showcases the designer’s passion for fine jewellery as an art
form. Each piece tells a story, beautifully conveying the poetry of
the designer’s vision.
Every jewel is carefully sourced and selected to fit the fairy-
tale that is Maria Kovadi Fine Jewellery. e brand prides itself on
achieving the highest levels of quality and innovation by working
with the most outstanding craftsmen in Italy and using the latest
technology, combined with traditional skills.
Delicately hand-crafted pieces, often playful and interactive
in nature, are aimed at provoking reaction with story-telling or the
design itself. Maria Kovadi pieces are a truly exceptional choice for
those seeking a unique and personal way of expression through
fine jewellery that can be cherished for many years to come.
Maria Kovadi is not only an exceptional designer and artist.
She is also a unique person, full of love and this is definitely a plus
to her success. At the Jewellery Historian we love her work, her
team and we know that we can expect in the future to see more
amazing creations from this talented artist.
www.kovadi.com
Thoughtful and inspi-
rational design in-
stilled in each crea-
tion showcases the
designer’s passion
for fine jewellery as
an art form. Each
piece tells a story,
beautifully convey-
ing the poetry of the
designer’s vision.
63
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Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur
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PhotoinPUBLICDOMAINPhotocourtesyofMARIAKOVADI©MARIAKOVADI
Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur
MOUSSON ATELIER
SPOTLIGHT
69
Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little
rebellion.At Mousson Atelier, they have abandoned
the beaten path and stereotypes, and became inno-
vators in what they do. Creativity has become an in-
tegral part of them, making them a contemporary
brand of Haute Joaillerie.
70
PhotocourtesyofMOUSSONATELIER©MOUSSONATELIER
Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT
Each bright personality is beautiful in its uniqueness. We
appreciate those who can bravely make a statement and does not
hesitate to reveal his or her identity every second. Mousson Atelier
jewellery is unique, original and attractive - worthy setting for the
extraordinary person.
Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg,
Russia. Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals
with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting
unique gemstones.
Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innova-
tion and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in
design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the com-
pany. We pay great importance to creating jewellery that is valu-
able ultimately in its beauty. Creativity is a motion, a search, it's
always a little rebellion. For this reason at Mousson Atelier they
have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became
innovators in what they do. Creativity has become an inte-
gral part of them, and it allows them to give rise to more and more
new images!
A flash of inspiration allows them to leave the narrow
frames of the ordinary life. They are able to find something beauti-
ful in everything - and show it to others. Their creations are a syno-
nym of beauty, setted in precious metals and stones.
They select the highest quality materials:18 K gold of differ-
ent colors, precious stones of various shapes, colors, sizes and
cuts. Together these components turn into a wide variety of unique
creatures. The flawless creation of the jewellery is the product of
advanced technologies of jewelry industry & high-grade hand
work.
At the Jewellery Historian we are always honored to show-
case their latest & unique creations, because their craftsmanship
and excellent work is definitely of the highest possible quality, sim-
ply exceptional.
Every bright person-
ality is beautiful in
its uniqueness. We
appreciate those who
can bravely make a
statement to the
world and do not
hesitate to reveal
their identity every
second. Mousson At-
e l i e r j e w e l r y i s
unique, original and
attractive – it is a
worthy setting for an
extraordinary per-
son, whose essence it
aims to reflect and
e m p h a s i z e .
Every bright person-
ality is beautiful in
its uniqueness.
71
Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT
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Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT
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Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT
BVLGARI LVCEA
EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
87
The glowing LVCEA collection expresses the inseparable
ties between light and time. It radiantly embodies the per-
fect balance between simplicity and sophistication, and

conveys all the key characteristics of the Maison. In trib-
ute to the 2,700-year history of Rome in which Bulgari is
firmly rooted, the architecture and the proportions of
LVCEA evoke a tribute to luminous brightness, through
an aesthetic that harnesses the power of light, or luce in
Italian.
88
PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI
Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
The glowing LVCEA collection expresses the inseparable
ties between light and time. It radiantly embodies the perfect bal-
a n c e b e t w e e n s i m p l i c i t y a n d s o p h i s t i c a t i o n , a n d

conveys all the key characteristics of the Maison. Following on
from a broad array of new models presented at the start of the
year, the appeal of the collection is further heightened by two new
references combining 18K pink gold, steel and diamonds.
The LVCEA watch is as gentle and graceful as it is powerful
and sophisticated. In tribute to the 2,700-year history of Rome in
which Bulgari is firmly rooted, the architecture and the proportions
of LVCEA evoke a tribute to luminous brightness, through an aes-
thetic that harnesses the power of light, or luce in Italian.
The sensual lines of LVCEA reflect perfectly mastered ex-
pertise testifying to the famous Italian jeweller’s ability to craft pre-
cious metals. The distinctive V of the name and the LVCEA brace-
let links is subtly reminiscent of the iconic Serpenti collection and
its undulating models that have become signature symbols of the
Bulgari style. The sleek rings of the bracelet are counter-balanced
by the splendidly luminous round case. And to highlight the colour-
ful jewellery virtuosity cultivated by the Maison, Bulgari adorns the
crown of all LVCEA watches with a glowing crown. This cabochon-
cut pink rubellite on the winding-crown lends the inimitably daring
touch one has come to expect from the brand. The crown is also
enhanced by a diamond that accentuates the intensely feminine
nature of the model.
2015 is a particularly lavish year for the constantly growing
collection. Baselworld marked the unveiling of an array of new at-
tributes and new sizes for LVCEA, notably featuring straps in sap-
phire blue, burgundy pink or powder pink alligator leather, as well
as precious diamond-set bezels and gold links.
The ever more popular collection is also extending the
scope of its seductive power. Its intense creativity is further en-
riched in the autumn of 2015 by two new 18K pink gold and steel
creations adorned with diamonds framing the bezel and also set
on the hour-markers punctuating the mother-of-pearl dial. These
two creations, appearing in 28 mm and 33 mm diameters, further
complement the already impressive abundance of a collection
whose radiant wealth is entirely on a par with the force of the life-
giving light it embodies. >
The distinctive V of
the name and the
LVCEA bracelet links
is subtly reminiscent
of the iconic Serpenti
collection and its un-
dulating models that
have become signa-
ture symbols of the
Bulgari style.
89
Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
These two creations, appearing in 28 mm and 33 mm diameters, further
complement the already impressive abundance of a collection whose radi-
ant wealth is entirely on a par with the force of the life-giving light it em-
bodies.
90
PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI
Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
BVLGARI clothes its LVCEA collection in brilliant and glamorous
High Jewellery attire.


This highly exclusive collection sets a perfect stage for the jeweller’s expertise in three
precious watches adorned with diamonds, rubies and emeralds. They shine a precious
light on time and endow the LVCEA collection with an even more distinctive radiance.
Right from the time of its launch in 2014, LVCEA asserted itself as the new muse
among BVLGARI ladies’ watches. Everything about its appearance evokes the style
signatures of the Rome-based jeweller. It embodies the perfect alchemist’s blend of op-
posites: roundness and linearity; light and shade; grace and sophistication. These con-
trasting qualities reveal it, endow it with distinction and characterise its versatility, while
contouring its material, shapes and personality. From dawn to dusk, it suffuses
women’s time with the glow of its multiple incarnations: 28 mm, 33 mm and 36 mm
cases, mother-of-pearl shades or guilloché effects, the sparkle of diamonds.
LVCEA is born of light. The whole nature of its emblematic design enshrines the es-
sence of BVLGARI. Three new interpretations draw all eyes, elegantly and intensely
reflecting the purity of light. In its new 23 mm-diameter size, this dainty jewellery watch
reveals its full splendour. BVLGARI has chosen to adorn white gold with the four gems
traditionally considered the most precious: diamonds, the royal stone; emeralds, the
most sought-after form of beryl; as well as the two most prestigious corundum, sap-
phire and ruby. In its all-diamond version issued in a five-piece limited edition, LVCEA is
swept over blued hands and its crown features a sapphire cabochon set with a brilliant-
cut diamond. In the interpretation adorned with rubies or emeralds, each in a three-
piece edition, the bezel and bracelet are enhanced with coloured gems. Set with more
than 14 carats of precious stones, the bracelet is indeed a piece of jewellery in its own
right. The motif formed by the 84 baguette-cut diamonds imparts a distinctive cadence
to the dial that marks of time as a reminder of the sundials that inspired it.
Combining the magnetic draw of its inimitably BVLGARI style with the sparkling radi-
ance of close- set and invisible-set baguette-cut gems, the LVCEA collection literally
wraps women in light.
For further information visit www.bulgari.com
Beneath the sparkle
of the baguette-cut
gems the gemsetter’s
know-how is fully ex-
pressed. Stone after
stone, cut after cut,
over a full 192 hours
of intricate and fo-
cused workmanship,
he arrays LVCEA in
its mantle of light
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Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
92
LVCEA High Jewellery Emeralds
Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white
gold case set with 26 baguette-cut emeralds
(approx. 0.76 cts). White gold crown set with
brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds. White
gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds
(approx. 1.81 cts). White gold bracelet set
with 210 baguette-cut diamonds (approx.
13.25 cts) and 100 buff-top cut emeralds
(approx. 2.82 cts).
PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI
Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
93
The LVCEA bracelet with its emblem-
atic link endows the eponymous collec-
tion with its unique and highly distinc-
tive character. The object of keen and
sustained attention, the bracelet of the
LVCEA High Jewellery models calls
for 132 hours of gemsetting alternat-
ing between invisible and close setting.
310 stones of 31 different sizes adorn
its 85 components. Each of its links is
set with 15 stones of different sizes.
The clasp link alone features 20 stones
of 17 different sizes. This construction
has been entirely revamped in relation
to the original model.
LVCEA High Jewellery Rubies
Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white
gold case set with 26 baguette-cut rubies
(approx. 1.11 cts). White gold crown set with
brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds. White
gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds
(approx. 1.81 cts). White gold bracelet set
with 210 baguette-cut diamonds (approx.
13.25 cts) and 100 buff-top cut rubies
(approx. 2.82 cts).
PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI
Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
94
LVCEA High Jewellery Diamonds
Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white
gold case set with 26 baguette-cut diamonds
(approx. 1.03 cts), 1 brilliant-cut diamond
(approx. 0.02 cts) and 1 sapphire (approx. 0.54
cts). White gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut
diamonds (approx. 1.64 cts). White gold
bracelet set with 310 baguette-cut diamonds
(approx. 14.01 cts).
PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI
Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
S
95
comme
Style
wonder33/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
96
97
Celebrity favorites, Maria Lucia Hohan’s dresses are spotted on the red carpet at almost all Hollywood events
that make headlines.
 
Upon preparing to become an interior designer, Maria found herself to be more attracted to fashion design
and in the end she graduated a top school in Paris, with a master in textile design. Her amazing sense of fabrics went
from passion to business only to become later on, a signature: an amazing color palette declined on silk fabrics care-
fully selected and custom dyed for each season.
 
She ended up creating a new category of evening gowns, fresh, young, simple and sophisticated. “I couldn’t
find a gown that suited my age and style. I never liked the classic prom dresses, nor the bridal guest type. I felt the
need to create a new kind of silhouette and texture” she explains.
 
Her vision is highly appreciated by A list stars stepping on the red carpet. From Jennifer Lopez wearing MLH
in the video productions of her latest tour and on the red carpet, to Dita von Teese, Catherine Zeta Jones, Sophia Ver-
gara, Eva Longoria, Taylor Swift, Vanessa Hudgens, Kim Kardashian, Nicole Scherzinger, Giuliana Rancic or Jennifer
Hudson, they all got great reviews from fashion critics and the public. Editorials, magazine covers, red carpet events
or even advertising campaigns for celebrity owned brands are now featuring MLH creations, establishing Maria Lucia
Hohan as an important name among the new wave of fashion designers.
Maria Lucia Hohan
Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
Style
98
Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
99
Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
100
Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
101
Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
102
Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
103
Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
104
Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
105
OPEN
CALL
new talents
106
You are a young fashion designer or a young jewelelry designer ?
You want to see your creations in the Jewellery Historian ?
Go to our website and submit material today !
www.jewelleryhistorian.com > contact us
107
Jewelswe
Love
In every issue we handpick the finest jewellery for you
to choose, enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant
touch to the most important times of your life. Previously
known as “Our Faves”, this new column introduces you
to our favorite jewellery, designed by the most talented
jewellery designers.
Jewellery Historian | Jeweks we Love
108
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Svetlanamiku/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
109
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Palmiero
110
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Harry Kotlar
111
Antonini
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
112
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Arthus-Bertrand
113
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Zaffiro
114
Sutra
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
115
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Lydia Courteille
116
Butani
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
117
Alexia Jordan
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
118
Gaelle Khouri
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
119
Djula
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Borgioni
120
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
121
Caspita
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
122
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Roberto Coin
123
Boucheron
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
124
Michael Aram
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
125
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Pasquale Bruni
126
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Morphée Joaillerie
127
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Bavna
128
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Fabergé
Nikos Koulis
129
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
130
Goralska
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Leticia Linton
131
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
132
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
Mousson Atelier
133
Yoko London
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
134
Avakian
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
135
Mathon
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
136
Zolotas
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
137
Bulgari
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
138
Magerit
Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love
139
INSPIRATIONSPRÊT-À-PORTER | INTERIOR DESIGN | ACCESSORIES | TRAVEL | LIFESTYLE | BOOKS
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
nataliakul/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
140
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
141
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
The A380 is coming to Mexico
This winter, Air France is offering six weekly frequencies
between Paris-Charles de Gaulle and Mexico. Starting on 12
January 2016, three weekly flights are operated by Airbus
A380, the Company’s largest super jumbo (Tuesday, Thursday
and Saturday). The three other flights are operated by Boeing
777-300. From 27 March 2016, the A380 will fly between the
two cities daily.
On board, customers have the option of travelling in four
flight cabins ensuring optimum comfort – La Première,
Business, Premium Economy and Economy.
Book your ticket at www.airfrance.com
H&M Conscious Exclusive 2016 − Historic art
inspires fashion for the future
H&M is proud to announce a collaboration with the Musée des
Arts Décoratifs located in the Palais du Louvre in Paris to
celebrate the new H&M Conscious Exclusive collection. This
beautiful new range has been inspired by the archives of the
museum, and will be launched on Thursday 7th April to
coincide with the opening of the hotly anticipated exhibition,
Fashion forward - Three centuries of fashion. H&M is
delighted to also reveal that Parisian art director, style maven
and sustainability champion, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, will be
the face of the campaign.
www.hm.com
142
For the women’s Pre-Spring collection we see key com- ponents as knits
and blazers that define a classic look, modified with full attention to the
perfect cut to create a feminine edge. Wear the blazer with a slightly looser
top and a pair of slim chinos to maintain balance. Add a pair of sneakers in
soft leather to get the clean and simple sporty chic look. For the special
occasions of the season, silks, cashmere, fine wool and gold detailing are
used to enhance the overall luxurious and sophisticated feel.
www.gant.com
GANT PRE-SPRING 2016
For Pre-Spring 2016 GANT serves game, set and match, in true American
Sportswear spirit. The collection is clean and simple in crisp white with pops of
color. The silhouette is narrow and straight and the garments are lightweight to
enhance sporty features. It is a contemporary take on a sporty base where a
brave color pallet is mixed beautifully with white and black. This Pre-Spring
collection defines the essence of understated chic.
Chinos in bright and dark colors represent the base for the Pre-Spring men’s
collection. Wear it with the sweater with the tennis racket patterns, which
permeates the theme of the collection. To increase the sporty look, add the
sneak- ers in soft leather; it looks great together with a white shirt and a pair of
chinos.
Combine sporty influences with more formal items to give the look an everyday
ease. Inspired by our Ivy League heritage, we created an elegant blazer with
clean lines, focused on the perfect cut and the details, so look closely to detect
perfection.
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
143
Jacket (H&M)
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
Navy hills (GANT)
Scarf ( GANT )
Dress ( GANT )
Handbag ( GANT )
144
Top (H&M)
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
Jeans ( GANT )
Earrings ( Baccarat)
Suede shoes (H&M)
Handbag ( GANT )
145
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
Pine-Forest scented candle(H&M)
All products H&M
Elegant bedding by GANT
Bedding (GANT)
146
Pillow ( GANT )
Plate ( H&M )
All products by GANT
All products by H&M
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
147
Suede pumps (H&M)
Dress (GANT)
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
Handbag ( GANT )
Ring ( Baccarat)
148
Top (H&M)
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
Pants (GANT)
Shoes (H&M)
Blazer (GANT)
Sunglasses(H&M)
149
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
All products by GANT
Towel ( GANT )
Swimwear ( GANT )
150
Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
All products by H&M
Vase ( H&M )
Pillow ( H&M )
151
Bookaddress
PlusONE/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
152
ADLER
www.adler.ch
ALEXIA JORDAN
www.alexiajordanjewellery.com
ANTONINI
www.antonini.it
ARTHUS BERTRAND
www.arthus-bertrand.fr
AVAKIAN
www.avakian.com
BACCARAT
www.baccarat.com
BAVNA
www.bavna.com
BORGIONI
www.borgionis.com
BOUCHERON
www.boucheron.com
BULGARI
www.bulgari.com
BUTANI
www.butani.com
CARNET
www.carnetjewellery.com
CASPITA
www.caspita.ch
CHRISTIE’S
www.christies.com
DJULA
www.djula.fr
FABERGÉ
www.faberge.com
GANT
www.gant.com
GAELLE KHOURI
www.gaellekhouri.com
GORALSKA
www.goralska.com
GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces
www.guccitimeless.com
HARRY KOTLAR
www.harrykotlar.com
H&M
www.hm.com
LETICIA LINTON
www.lbldesign.com.br
LYDIA COURTEILLE
www.lydiacourteille.com
MAGERIT
www.mageritjoyas.com
MARIA KOVADI
www.kovadi.com
MARIA LUCIA HOHAN
www.mlh-shop.com
MARTIN KATZ
www.martinkatz.com
MATHON
www.mathon-paris.com
MICHAEL ARAM
www.michaelaram.com
MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
www.morphee-joaillerie.com
MOUSSON ATELIER
www.moussonatelier.com
NIKOS KOULIS
www.nikoskoulis.gr
PALMIERO
www.palmierogioielli.com
PASQUALE BRUNI
www.pasqualebruni.com
ROBERTO COIN
www.robertocoin.com
SUTRA
www.sutrajewels.com
ULYSSE NARDIN
www.ulysse-nardin.com
YOKO LONDON
www.yokolondon.com
ZAFFIRO
www.zaffirojewelry.com
ZOLOTAS
www.zolotas.gr
153
www.jewelleryhistorian.com
CONRADO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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Jewellery Historian, Issue 17

  • 2. INSIDE THIS ISSUE 1 “At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we feature exclusively jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality.” Jewellery Historian 17 Wacomka / SHUTTERSTOCK . COM
  • 3. 2 21 In his The Art of Creativity column, Olivier Dupon introduces us to Michelle Ong who has been creating beautiful and collectable jewellery for Carnet over the last two decades. As a designer of high jewellery, Michelle Ong focuses on the perfect combination of precious stones, remarkable craftsmanship and memorable designs. The January Jewellery auction at Christie’s South Kensington will offer 256 lots of jewellery and diamond-set wristwatches, including a wide selection of modern and collectable jewellery from the 19th century and Art Deco period to the present day. A great auction to find amazing jewelry of exceptional beauty. Discover more in our News. 10 Photo courtesy of CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2016 © CHRISTIE'S IMAGES LTD. 2016 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET The New Year, for many, marks a new beginning. It is a time of renewal. A time to make right all that we did wrong last year.  It is a time of new hope. Our editor-in-chief in his Editor’s Letter, welcomes you and invites you to discover the revised Jewellery Historian and the latest issue of the “Best kept secret in the world of luxury”. 7
  • 4. Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Creative director-at-large Panayiotis Simopoulos Founder Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier --- Columnists Eva Kountouraki ( Breathtaking beauty of Gems ) Olivier Dupon (The art of creativity ) --- Contributors Martin Huynh , Christina Rodopoulou --- Creative Jewellery Historian Production Jewellery Historian Publishing 16ml & Homo Evolution --- Photo agencies Shutterstock, Pixabay, Freepik,The stocks Cover Svetlanamiku / Shutterstock. com --- Advertising info@jewelleryhistorian.com Website www.jewelleryhistorian.com E-mail info@jewelleryhistorian.com --- FREE DIGITAL COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2016 Jewellery Historian All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is pub- lished with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, nei- ther the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for informa- tion purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands, press offices or organiza- tions without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles and/or advertorials, are the author's and/or brand’s own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Jewellery Historian, the owner, the publisher, the editor-in-chief and team of the maga- zine, or of any part related to the magazine. The name “Jewellery Historian” and/or logo, may not be reproduced without prior written consent of the founder of magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this magazine is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, lay-out and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohib- ited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or dis- tinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the prop- erty of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of third-part links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages & e-magazine is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. Image(s) or Footage (as applicable), used under license from photo agencies. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery de- signers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Histo- rian’s website and/or magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trade- marks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law.
  • 5. 4 In her Breathtaking beauty of gems column, Eva Kountouraki talks about a gemstone that was given the nickname “the great impostor”. It has been sold, bought, stolen, inherited, and thought of as another gem for many many years. However it survived and rose to the heart of the people as an important gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be named by its own name and praised for its unique qualities; it’s the beautiful spinel. 53 PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS An “esthète” is a person who has or professes to have refined sensitivity toward the beauties of art or nature. In each issue, discover the personal choice of our editor-in-chief, in his esthète column. PhotocourtesyofYOKOLONDON©YOKOLONDON 59 Previously a connoisseur’s secret, Maria Kovadi Fine Jewellery is presented to the wider audience at Baselworld 2016. But at the Jewellery Historian we are honored to be among the first to present the exceptional work of this talented and unique artist. 61
  • 6. 95 Celebrity favorites, Maria Lucia Hohan’s dresses are spotted on the red carpet at almost all Hollywood events that make headlines. To welcome our new S comme Style column, we chose to introduce you Maria Lucia Hohan, an important name among the new wave of fashion designers and a designer we love for her creations and talent. For our new column Exceptional Timepieces BVLGARI clothes its LVCEA collection in brilliant and glamorous High Jewellery attire and introduces us the two new seductive creations of the LVCEA watch,gentle and graceful as powerful and sophisticated and a tribute to luminous brightness, through an aesthetic that harnesses the power of light 87 Photo courtesy of BULGARI © BULGARI PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN 5 Mousson Atelier was founded in Saint Petersburg, Russia, in 2008. The atelier came into being as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years of experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier preserves the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern and classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the company. 69
  • 7. In every issue, for Jewels we Love, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. Previously known as “Our Faves”, this new column introduces you to our favorite jewellery, designed by the most talented jewellery designers. 107 6 In every issue, Inspirations, introduce you to the latest trends in interior design, prêt-à-porter, accessories, travel, books and lifestyle. This new columns welcomes our new strategy to feature the best of design, as requested by you, our readers. 135 Our Address Book in the end of our issue contains all brands featured in this issue and the official websites where you can find more information about each brand.
  • 9. 8 Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-Chief The New Year, for many, marks a new beginning. It is a time of renewal. A time to make right all that we did wrong last year. It is a time of new hope. The same applies also to the Jewellery Historian. When I decided to create this magazine, I did it with a passion for knowledge and critical inquiry, while searching new and innova- tive ways of delivering information that can resonate long after publication, combined to a uniquely powerful visual and textual storytelling. 2016, marks new and important changes in our magazine. First of all, because we decided that our magazine will be bimonthly. This was made to offer to our readers the best possi- ble reading experience and to our business partners the best possible exposure. The second reason, is because the jewellery designers, brands and artists we choose to showcase in every issue, whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality, need an exceptional and minimal way to reach their audience. This is why at the Jewellery Historian we focus on aesthetics and to the creativity of the designers, by letting their creations to speak for themselves, rather that surrounding them with distractions and other imagery. To reach our international audience, a connected community of decision makers, connois- seurs with enhanced refinement, we decided to redesign both our magazine and website. Our readership, has until now been accumulated only by word-of-mouth and in short time reached an international audience due to the professional knowledge, the high quality con- tent and exceptional aesthetics of our team. We are honored of your support and we know that without your support this magazine who promotes, inspires and educates would not exist without your precious support. You will immediately notice the dynamism and beauty of this new layout. The “navigation” has been completely revamped and simplified to promote a more modern and more friendly approach, both in our magazine and website. We have chosen to focus to creativity. With a minimal design, that offers to the reader a unique reading experience, the Jewellery Historian aims to be a powerful way to introduce the unique universe of jewellery & timepieces to the new digital generation and to be a ref- erence for the jewellery & timepieces lovers, while contributing in strengthening social capi- tal by improving the knowledge, skills, confidence, motivation, networks and resources. My best wishes to you all for this new year, for a year full of love, joy and prosperity. EDITOR’S LETTER
  • 10. CONTRIBUTORS INSIDE THIS ISSUE 9 As long as he could remember, Olivier Du- pon has always been passionate about how ideas can translate into designs, and as a result, he is fascinated by the umpteen creative approaches taken by many inde- pendent practitioners. He is now an expert in the fields of lifestyle and fashion, reveling in exposing these talents to a wider audi- ence. While he began his career at Chris- tian Dior, and then worked as a buyer and project manager for several large retail companies before running his own lifestyle boutique for several years, now based in London, he scouts international markets in search of exciting names in Art & Craft, with a focus on jewellery makers and splen- did precious designs. His previous books include The New Arti- sans (2011), The New Jewelers (2012), The New Pâtissiers (2013), Floral Contemporary (2014), Encore! The New Artisans (2015), and Shoe: Contemporary Footwear by In- spiring Designers (2015) all published by Thames & Hudson. His new book on luxury jewellery will be published in Autumn 2016. For the Jewellery Historian, in his The Art of Creativity column, Olivier Dupon exposes inspiring, intriguing at time, and captivating stories through the presentation of talents or the exposé of current topics, all centered around creativity in today’s high-end fine jewelry. Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field. She started her first collection of pol- ished and rough gemstones at a very early age and realized that this would be her profession in the future. After studying gemology books in various languages, she attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her studies. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestig- ious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in dia- mond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California, US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students-famous professionals from around world. Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and precious stones. Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jewelry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and companies, advising and helping her clients to make successful buys and investments in gemstones. She also organ- izes and teaches seminars for the training of gemstone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gem-passionates. For the Jewellery Historian, in her The breathtaking beauty of gems column, she introduces you to a breathtaking gemstone in every issue.
  • 12. ULYSSE NARDIN 11 Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Cheerful “Year of the Monkey” Timepiece Playful and happy, the monkey’s spirit overflows with personality. Always curious, notoriously mischievous and especially clever, the monkey is the ninth animal in the Chinese Zodiac. Ulysse Nardin honors its exuberant essence with the “Year of the Monkey” timepiece, the latest addition to its Classico Collection. Designed in a comic strip-like style to best capture the lively creature’s character, the dial is the center of attention as the monkey appears to leap through a brush of palm fronds. Its expression is alert, its body is lithe, and the early workings of an impish grin begin to emerge. It is the champlevé method of enameling that brings the artist’s sketch to life. A rare art form and one mastered by very few, the champlevé technique consists of cells being carved with a chisel directly on the dial and filled with enamel. Its colors are generated from different metallic oxides, and for this piece, a neutral palette has been selected. The piece is then fired until the enamel melts. Ulysse Nardin has been bringing this realism to its dials for more than 25 years and is one of the only watchmakers devoted to the centuries-old craft. It is mastered in-house at Donzé Cadrans, a member of the Ulysse Nardin group of companies. The Classico Collection hosts a suite of original enameled pieces revered and collected by many. For 2016, Ulysse Nardin is pleased to introduce the “Year of the Monkey”, a limited edition of 88 pieces in 18-karat rose gold. Features include the self-winding UN-815 movement and COSC-certified chronometer. A joyful timepiece, one cannot help but smile when checking the time.
  • 14. CHRISTIE’S SOUTH KENSINGTON 13 The January Jewellery auction The January Jewellery auction at Christie’s South Kensington will offer 256 lots of jewellery and diamond- set wristwatches, including a wide selection of modern and collectable jewellery from the 19th century and Art Deco period to the present day. Highlights include a 19th century diamond riviėre necklace (estimate £15,000-20,000), a pair of old-cut diamond single stone earrings (estimate £5,000-7,000), an emerald and diamond cluster ring (estimate £6,000-8,000) and a coloured diamond and diamond bracelet (estimate £5,000-7,000). The sale also features a collection of signed jewels such as an attractive pair of enamel and diamond clip brooches by Boucheron (estimate £6,000-8,000), a morganite and gem brooch by Chaumet (estimate £2,000-3,000), as well as a selection of diamond jewellery by Bulgari, Buccellati and Chopard. Other signed jewels include pieces by Cartier, Mouawad, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co and Jahan. Christie’s South Kensington hosts seven jewellery auctions a year, offering new and existing clients regular opportunities to acquire jewels for occasions and every day, original and unique engagement rings, and gifts. The sales offer a variety of watches and jewellery ranging from collectable antique jewels, as well as fine period jewellery from the Art Deco and Belle Epoque periods, through to contemporary pieces. Notable jewelers such as Cartier, Chopard, Rolex, Bulgari, Chanel, Patek Philippe, Piaget, Pomellato, David Webb and Tiffany feature regularly. Pre-auction viewings open the weekend before the sale and anyone is welcome to come in and browse the sale, to try on the pieces and speak to our specialists. Christie’s South Kensington is also open late on Mondays. With estimates ranging from £500 up to around £25,000, there is a jewel for every taste and budget. Jewellery | Christie’s South Kensington Jan 20, 2016 | Sale 11526
  • 15. 14 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016©CHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016 Lot 217  TWO ENAMEL AND DIAMOND BROOCHES, BY BOUCHERON Each designed as a rose, the guilloché red or green enamel petals, with pear-shaped diamond detail, to the pavé-set diamond leaves and baguette-cut diamond stem, circa 1960, French assay marks , 6.8 cm Each signed Boucheron Paris, red one no. 13832.55 Estimate: £6,000 - 8,000
  • 16. 15 Lot 4    A LATE 19TH CENTURY DIAMOND SWALLOW BROOCH The body and wings set with graduated old-cut diamonds, with rose-cut diamond wing tips, the head with cabochon ruby eyes and yellow gold beak, detachable brooch fitting, circa 1880, 4.0cm, in fitted case Estimate: £1,500 - 2,000 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016©CHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016
  • 17. 16 Lot 2 A VICTORIAN DIAMOND RIVIÉRE NECKLACE Composed of a series of fifty four graduated old-cut diamond collets, mounted in silver and yellow gold, circa 1850, 39.0cm, in fitted case Estimate: £15,000 - 20,000 PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016©CHRISTIE'SIMAGESLTD.2016
  • 18. GUCCI 17 Fashionable and Urban : GUCCI Timepieces releases suite of G-Frame variants Echoing the playful yet polished mood depicted in Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2016 runway collections, Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry is pleased to release stylish new variants of the feminine G-Frame timepiece. These new watches are fitted with a double-loop strap, and come in a variety of designs, from sporty, to classic to urban. Recognizable by its neat beveled square case and minimalist dial, the suite of new G-Frame variants shows how by simply switching materials, the mood of the watch can change. Inspired by the Gucci green-red-green web stripe, the sportiest model displays the two-tone canvas on the wraparound strap and matching dial, set within a yellow gold PVD case. The brightly colored racing stripe is perfect for the clean, lean G-Frame design, and the result is dynamic and streamlined. 
 The new G-Frame with a brown calfskin looped strap, polished gold PVD case and mother of pearl dial creates a classic look with a chic and feminine appeal. As a contrast, the black variant offers a more urban aesthetic, seen in the black dial and black leather wraparound strap embellished with metal studs. On these two leather versions, Gucci’s new motif, the honeybee, is present next to the clasp, in matching yellow or stainless steel. Each timepiece shows the Gucci logo at 12 o’clock, the “Swiss Made” stamp at 6 o’clock and “G” insignia on the crown, and Gucci’s new honeybee symbol engraved on the case back.
  • 20. ULYSSE NARDIN 19 Ulysse Nardin opens a flagship Boutique in Abuja, Nigeria Luxury Swiss watch manufacturer Ulysse Nardin, the leader in timepiece invention and innovation, announced the opening of a mono-brand Boutique in Abuja, the capital of Nigeria. The official opening took place on December 10th attended by 300 guests including Dr. Daniel Cavegn, Deputy Head of Mission accompanied by several members of the Nigerian government. Mr. Patrik Hoffmann, CEO of Ulysse Nardin and Mr. Deremi Ajidahun, local partner of the brand, were very enthusiastic. It is with great honor that Ulysse Nardin opens its first mono-brand boutique in Africa, namely in Nigeria, Abuja. Having a great following and many Ulysse Nardin enthusiasts in Nigeria, we decided to bring the Ulysse Nardin experience close to the watch connoisseurs in Abuja. In this new boutique, some of the most unique and exclusive timepieces will be on display, specified Patrik Hoffmann. Located on Gana street, the most attractive place with luxury stores and hotels, the 50 square meters Boutique is designed as homage to the company’s nautical heritage. Decorated with wood furniture, timepieces are displayed in portholes. The boutique features iconic timepieces like Perpetual Calendar, where the calendar can be set forward and backward with ease, the Freak, which tells time by its movement, not by its hands and the astronomical wristwatch Moonstruck. Watch aficionados can also find the innovative Ulysse Anchor Tourbillon recently crowned with Tourbillon Prize by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and the brand’s finest timepieces including Stranger, Sonata, Classico, Dual Time Manufacture and Jade for ladies. And, the Marine collection that anchors Ulysse Nardin’s past to the ocean with today’s exemplary Marine Chronometer Manufacture. This boutique unveiling in Nigeria is the third this year for Ulysse Nardin with the new boutique in Miami Design District and the one in Dubai. The beholder of six exquisite families of watches, Ulysse Nardin will flow forward, stretching the limits of design, engineering and technology, and, of course, surprising watch fans around the globe.
  • 22. 21 THE ART OF CREATIVIT Y Carnet by Michelle Ong by Olivier Dupon Michelle Ong has been creating beautiful and collectable jewellery for Carnet over the last two decades. As a designer of high jewellery, Michelle Ong focuses on the perfect combination of precious stones, remarkable craftsmanship and memorable designs. Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
  • 23. 22 Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET
  • 24. She is one who delights in beauty so much that she had to create some, a contribution to all things beautiful in the form of hyper feminine haute joaillerie. It is Carnet by Mi- chelle Ong, an enchanting treasure trove of exquisite jewels, part delicate constructions with a lace, gossamer-thin quality to them, part bold concertos of scintillating gem- stones. A dual aspect that heralds a measured flamboyance, jewellery that one wants to wear as well as collect, jewellery that empowers rather than overpowers. ‘Jewellery designing is what I am meant to do; in some ways it is like being an alchemist.  I am passionate about  combining beautiful elements together to create a new fabulous jewel. It's magical. It was certainly a revelation,’ she says, ‘but not a sud- den one. I always loved jewellery. When I returned to Hong Kong after university, I de- cided to work with gemstones. Their beauty and special qualities inspired me to design; first for myself, later for friends, who asked me to create pieces for them. Then I knew it was something I simply had to do.’ Carnet was founded in 1998 when Michelle partnered with Avi Nagar. To this day, the collaboration has been a match made in heaven, with Michelle being able to focus on the creative side of the business, which she does by writing the storied House’s DNA a piece at a time. ‘I really only work to my own high standards and strive to stay true to my creative vision’, she shares. ‘To me jewellery should be sumptuous, alluring and remarkable, whether the design is more architectural or very romantic. That is why I make sure that the essence of Carnet is incorporated into each piece I design.’ This essence has a slight old-world refinement, think La Belle Époque as hinted in the luminescent ‘Floating Diamonds’ necklace that is a feat of craftsmanship. It show- cases matching rose-cut diamonds that look as if they are afloat on the neckline. It is such a complex project that it literally took years to achieve the setting, but Michelle, in always putting her concepts before feasibility considerations, was finally able to do it. It takes faith in the power of imagination - the notion that ideas are designs in waiting. ‘I am very free in my designs. If I have an idea, I am determined to find a way to make the piece’, she adds. Sometimes Michelle is inspired by a special gemstone, a flower, a beautiful line or just her vivid daydreams, but whatever the thought, she keeps a notebook with her all the time so she can record it all. And when it is time to materialize the piece, she says she starts to play with the different elements such as ‘the design, how it sits, the intensity and feeling. When I am satisfied, we make the piece in our own workshop. The finished piece has to be perfect. I will break it apart and begin again if I don't think it's truly Carnet’, she notes. Even though Carnet by Michelle Ong is universal in spirit, one can notice the Chinese and Asian influences that routinely surround Michelle: flowers, Chinese lattice motifs, or a beautiful blue and white screen, as depicted in the intricate ‘Azure Lattice’ bracelet. ‘I love to create bejewelled "gardens" by combining fantasy flowers as in my ‘Wild Meadow Flower’ brooch. It is feminine yet bold, a reference to nature's beauty, but with a Carnet twist. Varied precious stones intensify the lush colours of the petals and leaves’, she describes, ‘and it represents the sparkle you see in the garden at first light when the dew is still apparent.’ However whatever source of inspiration, it is always a subtle trib- “Jewellery designing is what I am meant to do; in some ways it is like being an alchemist. I am pas- sionate about com- bining beautiful ele- ments together to cre- ate a new fabulous jewel. It's magical. It was certainly a reve- lation”. 23
  • 25. 24 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Wild Meadow Flower Brooch White diamond, amethyst, pink and blue sapphire, ruby and spinel brooch in 18K white gold and titanium
  • 26. 25 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Sometimes Michelle is inspired by a spe- cial gemstone, a flower, a beautiful line or just her vivid d a y d r e a m s , b u t w h a t e v e r t h e thought, she keeps a notebook with her all the time so she can record it all. Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
  • 28. 27 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Sparkling Sunlight Pendant Yellow sapphire, fancy intense orangy yellow, yellow and white diamond pendant/brooch in platinum, 18K white gold and titanium with white and yellow diamond chain in 18K white gold
  • 29. 28 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Brilliant Diamond Earrings Light yellow and white diamond earrings in platinum
  • 30. ute to her heritage, not a literal one, as she is able to emancipate cultural symbols and propel them into a contemporary dimension. Besides Carnet was the first jeweller to use titanium in their designs, recognis- ing the material’s strength and lightness, a revolutionary move at the time. Soldering machines weren’t available when they first began to work with titanium over twenty years ago, and they have adhered to their traditional methods to this day. Meticulous handwork, using screws to hold components in place, is a formula that in itself adds beauty to the piece. ‘High Jewellery must be beautiful in form, function, storytelling, craftsmanship and presentation,’ she ponders, ‘it should be part of its moment in time yet timeless. My aim is, and has always been, to show the jewel as a true art form. And perhaps, most of all Jewellery should connect with the viewer or wearer, both visu- ally and emotionally.’ Naturally Michelle tends not to follow trends – either design or market ones - since she has always created the jewellery that she would personally wear, and this has been an unwavering guiding principle to this day. Furthermore she squarely consid- ers jewellery as an art form, and as such her renditions cannot be catalogued or timed. This may be the reason why she was asked to create the iconic jewellery for "The Da Vinci Code" movie and why her work has been shown in retrospective exhibitions at Asia House, the Natural History Museum in London and at the Burrell Collection in Glasgow. ‘Jewellery design, like art, is an expression of personal aesthetic, a view of the world. I want all my designs to stand as individual pieces of collectible art. Yet there is something intensely personal about buying a jewel; while the emotional connec- tion to a jewel may be similar to the connection to an artwork, there is more physicality involved in jewellery. It has to be beautiful yet wearable and has to feel comfortable to move with the body to fit with the client’s lifestyle, their personal style and wardrobe, so this brings other considerations to the purchase. Then, there’s the age-old talismanic association of the jewel, which adds an extra dimension. I like to think my signature aes- thetic creates a tangible artful fantasy.’ It appears that the women, who wear Carnet, connect with the quality, feminin- ity, the unique character and artistic integrity of Michelle’s creations, and evidently noth- ing makes her happier than seeing her designs worn by those who have an apprecia- tion for creativity, design and craftsmanship. So when JAR in person, - the elusive, cult- status jeweller for the aesthete elite of this world - writes: ‘Madame Ong's jewels are mouth-watering. There are Chinese clouds utterly different from ours, in scrolls of dia- monds; unexpected blackness with reds and greens making ferocious, billowing drag- ons we will remember; diamonds again trickling about a neck and slipping down wrists; geometry, monsters, flora, colour, a free hand making things we have never seen and will keep forever’, it becomes the ultimate seal of approval. As a matter of fact, Carnet by Michelle Ong may be one of those rare enter- prises that appeals to the spirit through the eyes. For further information, visit www.carnetjewellery.com Naturally Michelle tends not to follow trends – either de- sign or market ones - since she has always created the jewellery that she would per- sonally wear, and this has been an un- wavering guiding principle to this day. 29
  • 31. 30 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Ocean Night Earrings Pink and purple sapphire, white diamond and amethyst earrings in 18K white gold and titanium
  • 33. 32 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET “I love to create be- jewelled "gardens" by combining fan- tasy flowers as in my ‘ W i l d M e a d o w Flower’ brooch. It is feminine yet bold, a reference to nature's beauty, but with a Carnet twist.” Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY
  • 35. 34 Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY White Organdy Necklace White diamond necklace in platinum
  • 36. 35 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Moonstone in the Clouds Earrings Moonstone, white diamond and blue sapphire earrings in 18K white gold and silver
  • 37. 36 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Moonstone in the Clouds Bangle Moonstone, white diamond and blue sapphire bangle in 18K white gold and silver
  • 38. 37 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Grandeur Diamond Ring White diamond ring in platinum
  • 39. 38 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Winter Poppy Earrings White diamond earrings in 18K white gold
  • 40. 39 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Giverny Brooch Emerald and white diamond brooch/pendant in 18K white gold
  • 41. 40 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Entwined in Time White diamond timepiece in 18K white gold
  • 42. 41 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Floating Diamonds Necklace White diamond necklace in platinum
  • 43. 42 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Precious Petal Earrings White diamond earrings in 18K white gold
  • 44. 43 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Sparkling Lotus Bangle White diamond, green garnet and emerald bangle in platinum
  • 45. 44 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Azure Lattice Bracelet White diamond and blue sapphire bracelet in platinum and titanium
  • 46. 45 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Forbidden Fruit Brooch Coral ball, white and fancy yellow diamond, spinel, ruby and orange sapphire brooch in 18K white and yellow gold
  • 47. 46 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Fancy Floral Ring Fancy intense pink and white diamond ring in platinum
  • 49. 48 Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Emerald Embrace Timepiece Emerald and white diamond timepiece in 18K white gold
  • 50. 49 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Pure Sparkle Necklace White and light yellow diamond, blue, pink, purple and yellow sapphire necklace in 18K white gold and titanium
  • 51. 50 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Majestic Sapphire ring Blue sapphire, white diamond, pink and purple sapphire in 18K white gold and titanium
  • 52. 51 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Diamond Sea Nymph Earrings White diamond earrings in platinum
  • 53. 52 PhotocourtesyofCARNET©CARNET Jewellery Historian | THE ART OF CREATIVITY Diamond Fantasy Brooch White diamond brooch in platinum and 18K white gold
  • 54. SPINEL BREATHTAKING BEAUT Y OF GEMS 53 by Eva Kountouraki It was given the nickname “the great impostor”. It has been sold, bought, stolen, inherited, and thought of as another gem for many many years. However it survived and rose to the heart of the people as an im- portant gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be named by its own name and praised for its unique qualities; it’s the beautiful spinel.
  • 55. 54 Necklace "Princesse de B a b y l o n e " b y A d l e r Joailliers, in 18kt white gold and mother-of-pearl set with one cabochon spi- nel 70.49 cts and 481 dia- monds 11.56 cts PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
  • 56. It was given the nickname “the great impostor”. It has been sold, bought, stolen, inherited, and thought of as another gem for many many years. However it survived and rose to the heart of the peo- ple as an important gemstone of its own; and it deserves to be named by its own name and praised for its unique qualities; it’s the beautiful spinel. For centuries, people were mining ruby and spinel crystals in the same sources and considered the whole production to be ruby. In fact, before modern gemology was developed, people used only the colour of the gems to categorize and identify them. As a result, every red gem was called ruby, every blue gem was considered to be sapphire, all yellows were topaz, and so on. Some of these gems of “mysterious” personality adorn historically important jewelry pieces. One such gem is the “Black Prince’s Ruby” named after Edward, Prince of Wales - the “Black Prince”- who received the stone in 1367 as payment for a battle victory. Many years later, this exceptional gem was identified as spinel, and a quite large one, with the size of an egg. This gem is now set on the front of Britain's Imperial State Crown, right above the mag- nificent Cullinan II diamond, and below the beautiful St. Edward's Sapphire. Another historically significant gem that was thought to be a ruby but eventually turned out to be spinel is the so-called “Timur Ruby” also referred to with the powerful name “Khiraj- i-alam” meaning “tribute to the world”. This is an important spinel with an impressive weight of over 360cts, that until 1851 was erroneously considered to be the world’s largest ruby.. It is set as a centerpiece in a necklace that is part of the British Crown jewels. This gem’s large surface allowed enough space for the inscription of the names and dates of 6 of its previous owners. Traditional sources of spinel include central and Southeast Asia, like Tajikistan –home of the above mentioned gems- Afghanistan, My- anmar, Sri Lanka and Thailand. East Africa has risen to become a very important pro- ducer of spinel, with Tanzania, among oth- ers, having produced – and still producing, some of the world’s highest quality spinels of breathtaking beauty. Many spinel crystals are so perfect in their rough form that in Burma they are said to be “nat thwe” or “polished by the spirits”. Their crys- tal habit is a beautiful octahedron often with sharp and well-shaped edges that have given it its name. In fact, “spinel” most probably derives from the Latin word “spina” which means thorn, as a reference to the Some of these gems of “mysterious” per- sonality adorn his- torically important jewelry pieces. One such gem is the “ B l a c k P r i n c e ’ s Ruby” named after Edward, Prince of Wales - the “Black Prince”- who re- ceived the stone in 1367 as payment for a battle victory. 55 Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS “Gothic” collection ring with red spinel by Magerit PhotocourtesyofMAGERIT©MAGERIT
  • 57. PhotocourtesyofMATHONPARIS©MATHONPARIS Arôme ring with red spinel and diamonds by Mathon Paris 56 Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
  • 58. points of the rough. Other etymological analyses of this name say that it may have derived from the Greek word for sparkle, referring to red spinel’s intense coloration. Spinel comes in various colours, ranging from light pink to purple, down to blue and even black, with the strong red hue being the most desired and valued one. It is an important gemstone with a very interesting and often bloody history. A durable gem that takes a high luster and withstands everyday use, and a beauty that can be both steely and fiery. A spinel was chosen to head the Rus- sian Great Imperial crown; one large and rare spinel of over 398cts, that majestically sits on top of approximately 5000 polished diamonds, a double row of fine pearls and seven of the most his- toric stones of Russia’s diamond collection. Since 1783 when mineralogist Jean Baptiste Louis Rome de Lisle identified spinel as a different mineral than ruby, this spe- cial gem has slowly climbed its way to the place it merits in the de- signs of gem cutters and high-end jewelry makers. After all these years of turbulent history, tales and lore, it is about time to give spi- nel its righteous place among the important gems in our markets. And this doesn’t take much, just one look at the fiery East African reds and pinks will gain spinel a central position to every gem lover’s heart... And we will continue being awestruck and surprised with the heartwarming emotions that nature offers so generously. A spinel was chosen to head the Russian Great Imperial crown; one large and rare spinel of over 398cts, that ma- jestically sits on top of approximately 5000 polished dia- monds, a double row of fine pearls and seven of the most his- toric stones of Rus- sia’s diamond collec- tion. 57 PhotocourtesyofMARTINKATZ©MARTINKATZ Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS Emerald cut gray spinel of 10.29 carats ring by Mar- tin Katz, set in 18K white gold, surrounded by a bor- der of micro-set white dia- monds and a band of black diamonds, ame- thysts, blue spinels and purple sapphires.
  • 59. 58 Catherine II by Alexey An- tropov with the Russian Great Imperial crown (left) PhotoinPUBLICDOMAIN Jewellery Historian | BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
  • 60. esthète 59 a person who has or professes to have refined sensitivity toward the beauties of art or nature. EDITOR’S CHOICE
  • 61. 60 An exceptional necklace by YOKO London
  • 62. MARIA KOVADI COUP DE CŒUR 61 "All, everything that I understand, I only understand because I love." — LeoTolstoy
  • 64. Previously a connoisseur’s secret, Maria Kovadi Fine Jewel- lery is presented to the wider audience at Baselworld 2016. The Swiss-based high-end jewellery house caters to the most discern- ing clientele wishing to highlight their individuality and distinctive thinking. Italian craftsmanship translates the poetry of the de- signer's vision into innovative, playful, extravagant and enchanting creations, which come made-to-order or in a limited edition. Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled in each crea- tion showcases the designer’s passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Each piece tells a story, beautifully conveying the poetry of the designer’s vision. Every jewel is carefully sourced and selected to fit the fairy- tale that is Maria Kovadi Fine Jewellery. e brand prides itself on achieving the highest levels of quality and innovation by working with the most outstanding craftsmen in Italy and using the latest technology, combined with traditional skills. Delicately hand-crafted pieces, often playful and interactive in nature, are aimed at provoking reaction with story-telling or the design itself. Maria Kovadi pieces are a truly exceptional choice for those seeking a unique and personal way of expression through fine jewellery that can be cherished for many years to come. Maria Kovadi is not only an exceptional designer and artist. She is also a unique person, full of love and this is definitely a plus to her success. At the Jewellery Historian we love her work, her team and we know that we can expect in the future to see more amazing creations from this talented artist. www.kovadi.com Thoughtful and inspi- rational design in- stilled in each crea- tion showcases the designer’s passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Each piece tells a story, beautifully convey- ing the poetry of the designer’s vision. 63 PhotocourtesyofMARIAKOVADI©MARIAKOVADI Jewellery Historian | Coup de Cœur
  • 70. MOUSSON ATELIER SPOTLIGHT 69 Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion.At Mousson Atelier, they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became inno- vators in what they do. Creativity has become an in- tegral part of them, making them a contemporary brand of Haute Joaillerie.
  • 72. Each bright personality is beautiful in its uniqueness. We appreciate those who can bravely make a statement and does not hesitate to reveal his or her identity every second. Mousson Atelier jewellery is unique, original and attractive - worthy setting for the extraordinary person. Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innova- tion and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the com- pany. We pay great importance to creating jewellery that is valu- able ultimately in its beauty. Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion. For this reason at Mousson Atelier they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became innovators in what they do. Creativity has become an inte- gral part of them, and it allows them to give rise to more and more new images! A flash of inspiration allows them to leave the narrow frames of the ordinary life. They are able to find something beauti- ful in everything - and show it to others. Their creations are a syno- nym of beauty, setted in precious metals and stones. They select the highest quality materials:18 K gold of differ- ent colors, precious stones of various shapes, colors, sizes and cuts. Together these components turn into a wide variety of unique creatures. The flawless creation of the jewellery is the product of advanced technologies of jewelry industry & high-grade hand work. At the Jewellery Historian we are always honored to show- case their latest & unique creations, because their craftsmanship and excellent work is definitely of the highest possible quality, sim- ply exceptional. Every bright person- ality is beautiful in its uniqueness. We appreciate those who can bravely make a statement to the world and do not hesitate to reveal their identity every second. Mousson At- e l i e r j e w e l r y i s unique, original and attractive – it is a worthy setting for an extraordinary per- son, whose essence it aims to reflect and e m p h a s i z e . Every bright person- ality is beautiful in its uniqueness. 71 Jewellery Historian | SPOTLIGHT
  • 88. BVLGARI LVCEA EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES 87 The glowing LVCEA collection expresses the inseparable ties between light and time. It radiantly embodies the per- fect balance between simplicity and sophistication, and
 conveys all the key characteristics of the Maison. In trib- ute to the 2,700-year history of Rome in which Bulgari is firmly rooted, the architecture and the proportions of LVCEA evoke a tribute to luminous brightness, through an aesthetic that harnesses the power of light, or luce in Italian.
  • 90. The glowing LVCEA collection expresses the inseparable ties between light and time. It radiantly embodies the perfect bal- a n c e b e t w e e n s i m p l i c i t y a n d s o p h i s t i c a t i o n , a n d
 conveys all the key characteristics of the Maison. Following on from a broad array of new models presented at the start of the year, the appeal of the collection is further heightened by two new references combining 18K pink gold, steel and diamonds. The LVCEA watch is as gentle and graceful as it is powerful and sophisticated. In tribute to the 2,700-year history of Rome in which Bulgari is firmly rooted, the architecture and the proportions of LVCEA evoke a tribute to luminous brightness, through an aes- thetic that harnesses the power of light, or luce in Italian. The sensual lines of LVCEA reflect perfectly mastered ex- pertise testifying to the famous Italian jeweller’s ability to craft pre- cious metals. The distinctive V of the name and the LVCEA brace- let links is subtly reminiscent of the iconic Serpenti collection and its undulating models that have become signature symbols of the Bulgari style. The sleek rings of the bracelet are counter-balanced by the splendidly luminous round case. And to highlight the colour- ful jewellery virtuosity cultivated by the Maison, Bulgari adorns the crown of all LVCEA watches with a glowing crown. This cabochon- cut pink rubellite on the winding-crown lends the inimitably daring touch one has come to expect from the brand. The crown is also enhanced by a diamond that accentuates the intensely feminine nature of the model. 2015 is a particularly lavish year for the constantly growing collection. Baselworld marked the unveiling of an array of new at- tributes and new sizes for LVCEA, notably featuring straps in sap- phire blue, burgundy pink or powder pink alligator leather, as well as precious diamond-set bezels and gold links. The ever more popular collection is also extending the scope of its seductive power. Its intense creativity is further en- riched in the autumn of 2015 by two new 18K pink gold and steel creations adorned with diamonds framing the bezel and also set on the hour-markers punctuating the mother-of-pearl dial. These two creations, appearing in 28 mm and 33 mm diameters, further complement the already impressive abundance of a collection whose radiant wealth is entirely on a par with the force of the life- giving light it embodies. > The distinctive V of the name and the LVCEA bracelet links is subtly reminiscent of the iconic Serpenti collection and its un- dulating models that have become signa- ture symbols of the Bulgari style. 89 Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
  • 91. These two creations, appearing in 28 mm and 33 mm diameters, further complement the already impressive abundance of a collection whose radi- ant wealth is entirely on a par with the force of the life-giving light it em- bodies. 90 PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
  • 92. BVLGARI clothes its LVCEA collection in brilliant and glamorous High Jewellery attire. 
 This highly exclusive collection sets a perfect stage for the jeweller’s expertise in three precious watches adorned with diamonds, rubies and emeralds. They shine a precious light on time and endow the LVCEA collection with an even more distinctive radiance. Right from the time of its launch in 2014, LVCEA asserted itself as the new muse among BVLGARI ladies’ watches. Everything about its appearance evokes the style signatures of the Rome-based jeweller. It embodies the perfect alchemist’s blend of op- posites: roundness and linearity; light and shade; grace and sophistication. These con- trasting qualities reveal it, endow it with distinction and characterise its versatility, while contouring its material, shapes and personality. From dawn to dusk, it suffuses women’s time with the glow of its multiple incarnations: 28 mm, 33 mm and 36 mm cases, mother-of-pearl shades or guilloché effects, the sparkle of diamonds. LVCEA is born of light. The whole nature of its emblematic design enshrines the es- sence of BVLGARI. Three new interpretations draw all eyes, elegantly and intensely reflecting the purity of light. In its new 23 mm-diameter size, this dainty jewellery watch reveals its full splendour. BVLGARI has chosen to adorn white gold with the four gems traditionally considered the most precious: diamonds, the royal stone; emeralds, the most sought-after form of beryl; as well as the two most prestigious corundum, sap- phire and ruby. In its all-diamond version issued in a five-piece limited edition, LVCEA is swept over blued hands and its crown features a sapphire cabochon set with a brilliant- cut diamond. In the interpretation adorned with rubies or emeralds, each in a three- piece edition, the bezel and bracelet are enhanced with coloured gems. Set with more than 14 carats of precious stones, the bracelet is indeed a piece of jewellery in its own right. The motif formed by the 84 baguette-cut diamonds imparts a distinctive cadence to the dial that marks of time as a reminder of the sundials that inspired it. Combining the magnetic draw of its inimitably BVLGARI style with the sparkling radi- ance of close- set and invisible-set baguette-cut gems, the LVCEA collection literally wraps women in light. For further information visit www.bulgari.com Beneath the sparkle of the baguette-cut gems the gemsetter’s know-how is fully ex- pressed. Stone after stone, cut after cut, over a full 192 hours of intricate and fo- cused workmanship, he arrays LVCEA in its mantle of light 91 Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
  • 93. 92 LVCEA High Jewellery Emeralds Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white gold case set with 26 baguette-cut emeralds (approx. 0.76 cts). White gold crown set with brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds. White gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 1.81 cts). White gold bracelet set with 210 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 13.25 cts) and 100 buff-top cut emeralds (approx. 2.82 cts). PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
  • 94. 93 The LVCEA bracelet with its emblem- atic link endows the eponymous collec- tion with its unique and highly distinc- tive character. The object of keen and sustained attention, the bracelet of the LVCEA High Jewellery models calls for 132 hours of gemsetting alternat- ing between invisible and close setting. 310 stones of 31 different sizes adorn its 85 components. Each of its links is set with 15 stones of different sizes. The clasp link alone features 20 stones of 17 different sizes. This construction has been entirely revamped in relation to the original model. LVCEA High Jewellery Rubies Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white gold case set with 26 baguette-cut rubies (approx. 1.11 cts). White gold crown set with brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds. White gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 1.81 cts). White gold bracelet set with 210 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 13.25 cts) and 100 buff-top cut rubies (approx. 2.82 cts). PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
  • 95. 94 LVCEA High Jewellery Diamonds Quartz movement. 23 mm-diameter white gold case set with 26 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 1.03 cts), 1 brilliant-cut diamond (approx. 0.02 cts) and 1 sapphire (approx. 0.54 cts). White gold dial set with 84 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 1.64 cts). White gold bracelet set with 310 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 14.01 cts). PhotocourtesyofBULGARI©BULGARI Jewellery Historian | EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES
  • 97. 96
  • 98. 97 Celebrity favorites, Maria Lucia Hohan’s dresses are spotted on the red carpet at almost all Hollywood events that make headlines.   Upon preparing to become an interior designer, Maria found herself to be more attracted to fashion design and in the end she graduated a top school in Paris, with a master in textile design. Her amazing sense of fabrics went from passion to business only to become later on, a signature: an amazing color palette declined on silk fabrics care- fully selected and custom dyed for each season.   She ended up creating a new category of evening gowns, fresh, young, simple and sophisticated. “I couldn’t find a gown that suited my age and style. I never liked the classic prom dresses, nor the bridal guest type. I felt the need to create a new kind of silhouette and texture” she explains.   Her vision is highly appreciated by A list stars stepping on the red carpet. From Jennifer Lopez wearing MLH in the video productions of her latest tour and on the red carpet, to Dita von Teese, Catherine Zeta Jones, Sophia Ver- gara, Eva Longoria, Taylor Swift, Vanessa Hudgens, Kim Kardashian, Nicole Scherzinger, Giuliana Rancic or Jennifer Hudson, they all got great reviews from fashion critics and the public. Editorials, magazine covers, red carpet events or even advertising campaigns for celebrity owned brands are now featuring MLH creations, establishing Maria Lucia Hohan as an important name among the new wave of fashion designers. Maria Lucia Hohan Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE Style
  • 99. 98 Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
  • 100. 99 Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
  • 101. 100 Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
  • 102. 101 Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE
  • 103. 102 Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
  • 104. 103 Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
  • 105. 104 Jewellery Historian | S comme STYLE PhotocourtesyofMARIALUCIAHOHAN©MARIALUCIAHOHAN
  • 107. 106 You are a young fashion designer or a young jewelelry designer ? You want to see your creations in the Jewellery Historian ? Go to our website and submit material today ! www.jewelleryhistorian.com > contact us
  • 108. 107 Jewelswe Love In every issue we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose, enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. Previously known as “Our Faves”, this new column introduces you to our favorite jewellery, designed by the most talented jewellery designers. Jewellery Historian | Jeweks we Love
  • 109. 108 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Svetlanamiku/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
  • 110. 109 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Palmiero
  • 111. 110 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Harry Kotlar
  • 113. 112 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Arthus-Bertrand
  • 114. 113 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Zaffiro
  • 116. 115 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Lydia Courteille
  • 123. 122 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Roberto Coin
  • 126. 125 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Pasquale Bruni
  • 127. 126 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Morphée Joaillerie
  • 128. 127 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Bavna
  • 129. 128 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Fabergé
  • 133. 132 Jewellery Historian | Jewels we Love Mousson Atelier
  • 140. 139 INSPIRATIONSPRÊT-À-PORTER | INTERIOR DESIGN | ACCESSORIES | TRAVEL | LIFESTYLE | BOOKS Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS nataliakul/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
  • 141. 140 Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
  • 142. 141 Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS The A380 is coming to Mexico This winter, Air France is offering six weekly frequencies between Paris-Charles de Gaulle and Mexico. Starting on 12 January 2016, three weekly flights are operated by Airbus A380, the Company’s largest super jumbo (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday). The three other flights are operated by Boeing 777-300. From 27 March 2016, the A380 will fly between the two cities daily. On board, customers have the option of travelling in four flight cabins ensuring optimum comfort – La Première, Business, Premium Economy and Economy. Book your ticket at www.airfrance.com H&M Conscious Exclusive 2016 − Historic art inspires fashion for the future H&M is proud to announce a collaboration with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs located in the Palais du Louvre in Paris to celebrate the new H&M Conscious Exclusive collection. This beautiful new range has been inspired by the archives of the museum, and will be launched on Thursday 7th April to coincide with the opening of the hotly anticipated exhibition, Fashion forward - Three centuries of fashion. H&M is delighted to also reveal that Parisian art director, style maven and sustainability champion, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, will be the face of the campaign. www.hm.com
  • 143. 142 For the women’s Pre-Spring collection we see key com- ponents as knits and blazers that define a classic look, modified with full attention to the perfect cut to create a feminine edge. Wear the blazer with a slightly looser top and a pair of slim chinos to maintain balance. Add a pair of sneakers in soft leather to get the clean and simple sporty chic look. For the special occasions of the season, silks, cashmere, fine wool and gold detailing are used to enhance the overall luxurious and sophisticated feel. www.gant.com GANT PRE-SPRING 2016 For Pre-Spring 2016 GANT serves game, set and match, in true American Sportswear spirit. The collection is clean and simple in crisp white with pops of color. The silhouette is narrow and straight and the garments are lightweight to enhance sporty features. It is a contemporary take on a sporty base where a brave color pallet is mixed beautifully with white and black. This Pre-Spring collection defines the essence of understated chic. Chinos in bright and dark colors represent the base for the Pre-Spring men’s collection. Wear it with the sweater with the tennis racket patterns, which permeates the theme of the collection. To increase the sporty look, add the sneak- ers in soft leather; it looks great together with a white shirt and a pair of chinos. Combine sporty influences with more formal items to give the look an everyday ease. Inspired by our Ivy League heritage, we created an elegant blazer with clean lines, focused on the perfect cut and the details, so look closely to detect perfection. Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
  • 144. 143 Jacket (H&M) Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS Navy hills (GANT) Scarf ( GANT ) Dress ( GANT ) Handbag ( GANT )
  • 145. 144 Top (H&M) Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS Jeans ( GANT ) Earrings ( Baccarat) Suede shoes (H&M) Handbag ( GANT )
  • 146. 145 Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS Pine-Forest scented candle(H&M) All products H&M Elegant bedding by GANT Bedding (GANT)
  • 147. 146 Pillow ( GANT ) Plate ( H&M ) All products by GANT All products by H&M Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS
  • 148. 147 Suede pumps (H&M) Dress (GANT) Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS Handbag ( GANT ) Ring ( Baccarat)
  • 149. 148 Top (H&M) Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS Pants (GANT) Shoes (H&M) Blazer (GANT) Sunglasses(H&M)
  • 150. 149 Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS All products by GANT Towel ( GANT ) Swimwear ( GANT )
  • 151. 150 Jewellery Historian | INSPIRATIONS All products by H&M Vase ( H&M ) Pillow ( H&M )
  • 153. 152 ADLER www.adler.ch ALEXIA JORDAN www.alexiajordanjewellery.com ANTONINI www.antonini.it ARTHUS BERTRAND www.arthus-bertrand.fr AVAKIAN www.avakian.com BACCARAT www.baccarat.com BAVNA www.bavna.com BORGIONI www.borgionis.com BOUCHERON www.boucheron.com BULGARI www.bulgari.com BUTANI www.butani.com CARNET www.carnetjewellery.com CASPITA www.caspita.ch CHRISTIE’S www.christies.com DJULA www.djula.fr FABERGÉ www.faberge.com GANT www.gant.com GAELLE KHOURI www.gaellekhouri.com GORALSKA www.goralska.com GUCCI Jewelry & Timespieces www.guccitimeless.com HARRY KOTLAR www.harrykotlar.com H&M www.hm.com LETICIA LINTON www.lbldesign.com.br LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com MAGERIT www.mageritjoyas.com MARIA KOVADI www.kovadi.com MARIA LUCIA HOHAN www.mlh-shop.com MARTIN KATZ www.martinkatz.com MATHON www.mathon-paris.com MICHAEL ARAM www.michaelaram.com MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.com NIKOS KOULIS www.nikoskoulis.gr PALMIERO www.palmierogioielli.com PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com ROBERTO COIN www.robertocoin.com SUTRA www.sutrajewels.com ULYSSE NARDIN www.ulysse-nardin.com YOKO LONDON www.yokolondon.com ZAFFIRO www.zaffirojewelry.com ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr