Wallace Chan Monograph Showcases Legendary Jeweler's Imaginative World

Jewellery Historian
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SERGZASTAVKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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OCTOBER 2015
INTRODUCING ZAFFIRO
21High-end jewelry inspired by the Mediterranean culture
COVER STORY FARAH KHAN
39An enticing journey of mystic mélanges to Imperial embraces
INTERVIEW WALLACE CHAN
59Meeting the legendary jewelry creator, artist and philosopher
A NEW MUST CASPITA
85An exclamation of a thousand colours
143SPOTLIGHT GORALSKA
From the depths of the earth to feminine and urban high-end jewelry
REGULARS
EDITOR’S LETTER
Our editor-in-chief introduces you the new issue
ISSUE GLOBE
All the jewellery designers of this issue at a glance
NEWS
News from around the world
103
105
ESTHÈTE
123
The editor’s jewellery choice of the month
Jewellery for an important moment of life
OUR FAVES ANIMALIER JEWELLERY
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS AQUAMARINE
Eva introduces us a new gemstone in every issue
09
05
03
TIMEPIECES TIFFANY CT60
161Timepieces infused with the energy and ambition : 60 seconds of pure possibility.
Jewellery Historian | OCTOBER 2015

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4
EDITOR’S LETTER
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
I know that my public confession may come as a surprise to some people, especially since
I never talk or write about myself, but I am what some would call a “hopeless romantic.” I’m
in love with love.
But, I do not believe in the fairytale version of love. I have to distinguish delusions of “gran-
deur” and what it means to understand that love is about creating. Hopeless romantics are
idealists, the imaginative and sentimental dreamers, not the creepy stalkers. I understand
that love can be as ugly as it is beautiful. Love makes people say and do things that
shouldn’t be said or done and sometimes turns people into horrible ones. So I would call
myself “realistic hopeless romantic”, since I totally understand that love can become ugly,
and I know what it takes to keep it beautiful and alive. I know that love is whatever we make
of it.
Some people blame love for their bad behavior, but I would answer to them that people are
flawed, not love ! Love is a living, breathing thing. It requires attention and maintenance.
Love depends almost entirely on how we perceive it but also from our own actions. The
way we perceive reality is definitely influenced by our environment and our immediate sur-
roundings. We are influenced by thousands of tiny variables — so much so that we don’t
even see them as influences.
I am “a hopeless romantic” who has suffered betrayal and heartbreak, who has once hated
love, but managed to love it again, despite all its flaws and this made me incredibly strong.
I know what I want and this magazine is one of the things I love to do. Every issue is full of
my love and of the love of my amazing team. As a “hopeless romantic”, love gives me en-
ergy to dream, to create, to follow my dreams, to be a better person and to do everything I
do in my life.
When you love somebody or something you always find the time needed. If you don’t give
a part of yourself, or of your time then you should by brutally honest to yourself and wonder
if you really know what love is. Many people don’t, but I believe that I do.
Love, time and creativity are intimately connected. Love is a creative force that requests
time. It doesn’t have to be the focus of a creative work for it to inspire. It just has to exist.
Love, in other words, is dreamy, and dreams are linked to creativity. Most artists and de-
signers I have met the last twenty years have this point in common, they are almost all
“hopeless romantics”. After all, if they weren’t they would not be the amazing artists they
are today. Artists who are in love – or in love with the idea of love – tend to broaden their
perspectives and look to the future.
This October issue, is dedicated to the love all artists have in their creative souls, to all the
love they give to us all with their exquisite creations. It is dedicated to all the love we have
in our soul, even if some people choose to hide it. It is dedicated to love...past, present
and future.

In every issue, we introduce you to the most talented jewellery
designers and people.
At the JEWELLERY HISTORIAN we look for jewellery designers,
brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest
quality. We value creativity and innovation and we're not afraid to
challenge ourselves and others.
Discover the designers, brands & people that we are honored to
showcase in this issue.

FARAH KHAN
Farah Khan is a renowned Jewellery designer and gemologist who's foray into the
jewellery line was purely by chance when she decided to do a course in gemology
and jewellery design at the renowned Gemological Institute of America.
Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but also an artist of masterpieces and
an orator of stories. She can be called a jewel alchemist who triumphantly moulds
her thoughts into mastery and exquisite gems into jewellery. Her creations are con-
ceived in her over active imagination that allows her the freedom to make the impos-
sible possible. Her tales of thought, imagination, inspiration and craftsmanship is
narrated in her jewelled theatre, Farah Khan fine jewellery.
In this issue, we discover her “Jardin Exotique”,which is our “cover story” since her
creations inspired us to include our “animalier” faves and our cover.
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WALLACE CHAN
Wallace Chan was brought up at the confluence of Western and Asian cultures in Hong Kong.
He started as a gemstones carving apprentice, and set up his own workshop at age seven-
teen. Chan has explored and experimented with the properties of gemstones, inventing the
“Wallace Cut” carving technique.
Wallace Chan is a legend, because Wallace Chan's unique and innovative talents combined
to his limitless creativity combined to innovative design and revolutionary technique make him
"A Modern Renaissance Man".
He became the first Asian artist to be invited to exhibit at the Biennale des Antiquaires, Paris,
in 2012, returning in 2014.
In this issue, we meet him for an exclusive interview.
ZAFFIRO
In the Zaffiro jewelry design studio— located a short stroll from their 1913 Craftsman home in
the Hawthorne neighborhood of Portland, OR— Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri carry forward
the artistic legacy of ancient Etruscans. In their workshop beyond the lush garden full of hot
peppers, neatly riotous rows of tomatoes, and other gorgeously arranged fertility, the award-
winning jewelers practice an art form that first appeared 4000 years ago in and around Italy
and Greece.
Since establishing their own studio in Portland in 1996 they’ve experimented with non-
traditional color combinations for granulated jewelry and developed alloys and techniques
for granulating in 22 karat rose and white gold, as well as platinum. They work almost exclu-
sively with recycled gold. Jack’s ultimate goal is to create a piece that combines all the color
combinations.
ISSUE GLOBE

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ISSUE GLOBE
GORALSKA
Born in a family of diamond dealers for three generations, Corinne Evens grew up sur-
rounded by rough gemstones with an aura of mystery.
GORALSKA is the combination of three concepts: creativity, femininity, and audacity. In
Semitic languages, the word « goral » means destiny; and the suffi x « ska » identifies
femininity in Slavic languages.
To wear a GORALSKA piece is to adhere to a story, a life philosophy. The GORALSKA
woman shares with others her experiences and her values. She draws from her roots the
faith and the strength to accomplish her projects for others, with others. The GORALSKA
jewel is a bond between a woman’s past and future.
CASPITA
Caspita is an exclamation of a thousand colours, a name chosen by Arlène Bonnant to
launch her new line of fine jewellery. Caspita, in Italian, expresses admiration, joy, surprise -
literally "my goodness". This mysterious and colourful word came to the designer while remi-
niscing about her grandfather, who often used this expression of surprise in her presence.
This spirited word helped to create a bond between them, in much the same way as a jewel
can unite two people.
From the magical sound of the word's three syllables a line of fine jewellery was born, a line,
which without doubt, resembles its creator. Passionate about contemporary art, Arlène Bon-
nant is a recognized expert of 20th and 21st century Art. Arlène's profound involvement with
works of art and her close relationship with them drove her to explore her inner world and
subsequently led her to the creation of jewellery. The transition from one to the other came
very naturally to Arlène who sees a jewel as a work of art in itself.
EVA KOUNTOURAKI
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers.
From a very young age she expressed her keen interest in gems, jewelry and
design, a passion that led her to devote her studies and her career in this field.
With a career as a gemology instructor but also a jewelry and gemstones buyer
Eva is the only Greek woman who has ever accomplished such a distinction in
the field of diamonds and precious stones.
At the Jewellery Historian, you can read her exclusive column “The breathtaking
beauty of gemstones” in every single issue and we are proud for this. This
month, Eva invites us to discover aquamarine.

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The first illustrated monograph
on a jewelry creator who has re-
alized an imaginative world in-
spired by butterflies, insects,
fish and mythological creatures.
This remarkable limited edition
book showcases eighty-six
pieces of jewelry, unique works
of art that were conceived and
realized by Wallace Chan,
through close-up photography
that emphasizes details, materi-
als, technical innovation, and
the visionary talent of the artist.
Chan sculpts with a lightness of
touch that defies the abilities of
most artists and uses light as
the leitmotif of his colorful and
sensual jewels. His pieces re-
flect his Zen philosophy, adopt-
ing realism as a medium to ex-
press abstraction, and reveal a
unique craftsmanship in devel-
oping new techniques for carv-
ing precious stones and manipu-
lating titanium and jade, using
tools he has made. The collec-
tion features some of Chan’s
most intricate and technically
challenging pieces that have led
him to enter the ranks of the top
jewelry artists in the world.
Wallace Chan was brought up
at the confluence of Western
and Asian cultures in Hong
Kong. He started as a gem-
stones carving apprentice, and
set up his own workshop at age
seventeen. Chan has explored
and experimented with the prop-
erties of gemstones, inventing
the “Wallace Cut” carving tech-
nique. He became the first Asian
artist to be invited to exhibit at
the Biennale des Antiquaires,
Paris, in 2012, returning in 2014.
Juliette de la Rochefoucauld is
a gemologist and jewelery histo-
rian who has written a number of
books on jewelry designers past
and present. She lectures world-
wide on jewelry design.
380 pages, 11 x 15”
260 color photographs and illustrations
RIZZOLI
Release date : January 26, 2016
DREAM LIGHT WATER
Written by Juliet de la Rochefoucauld and Wallace Chan

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PhotocourtesyofTIFFANY&CO.©TIFFANY&CO.
OUR NEWS
PhotocourtesyofWALLACECHAN©WALLACECHAN

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Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry intro-
duced us at BASELWORLD 2015 a
prestigious new ensemble of time-
pieces for women, the Diamantissima
collection.
Five models in a range of sizes display
a feminine look and feel with elegantly
understated detailing. Each watch
showcases the iconic diamante pat-
tern that has inspired this line. This
brand-new launch complements the
Diamantissima Jewelry collection and
offers to the modern woman a fresh
new style.
The diamante pattern is inspired by
Gucci’s famous canvas fabric print fea-
turing a distinctive crisscross motif.
These timepieces, with their reﬁned
case and minimalist dial, show off this
design to its fullest expression: the
cases are etched with the diamante
pattern, and dials feature the motif all
over conveying a fabric print effect.
Rendered in colorways of stainless
steel and white (32mm, 27mm and
22mm) or pink gold PVD with black
and matching black calf leather strap
(32mm and 27mm), the diamante pat-
tern stands out on the cases, which
are rendered in tone-on-tone stainless
steel or contrasting colours of black
and pink gold PVD. Four models come
with minimalist dials without numerals,
whilst a smaller, precious variant
(22mm) is worked with a mother of
pearl dial accented with four diamonds
at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The Gucci
logo and ‘Swiss Made’ quality stamp
are etched under the sapphire glass at
12 and 6 o’clock.
With its understated Gucci allure, the
Diamantissima watch collection repre-
sents a new, reﬁned timepiece for the
modern woman.
About Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry
Gucci Timepieces has been design-
ing, developing and manufacturing
iconic Gucci watches since the early
1970s. Taking advantage of the world-
wide recognition of the Florentine
house – and its unique duality in brand
positioning, pairing modernity and heri-
tage, innovation and craftsmanship,
trendsetting and sophistication – Gucci
Timepieces is one of the most reliable
and consistent fashion watch brands,
with a clear design approach and posi-
tioning. Made in Switzerland, Gucci
watches are recognized for their de-
sign, quality and craftsmanship and
are distributed worldwide through the
exclusive network of directly operated
Gucci boutiques and selected watch
distributors. Since January 2010,
Gucci Timepieces has also been dis-
tributing the Gucci Jewelry collections,
capitalizing on the expertise gained in
the watch sector and leveraging the
synergies between the watch and jew-
elry industries. For more information
about Gucci Timepieces & Jewelry,
please visit www.gucciwatches.com.
Gucci is part of the Kering Group, a
world leader in apparel and accesso-
ries which develops an ensemble of
powerful Luxury and Sport & Lifestyle
brands.
GUCCI
The Diamantissima collection

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PhotocourtesyofGUCCI©GUCCI
OUR NEWS

15
In their unwavering pursuit of excellence, AVA-
KIAN the trusted jeweler to some of the
world's leading dignitaries, Royal Families
and celebrities, relocates its boutique to the
opluent Ritz Carlton Hotel in Moscow.
Located in the heart of Moscow’s luxurious
Ritz Carlton, Avakian’s newest boutique ex-
udes the sophisticated elegance that clients
have come to associate with the Avakian
brand. Decorated in chocolate brown, beige
and gold, the boutique is a welcoming space
where clients can view the jewellery collec-
tions and one-of-a-kind designs in an intimate
environment. Avakian’s signature quilt pat-
tern, inspired by the Tzarina collection,
adorns the gently revolving showcases. Cut-
ting edge lighting and technology help to dis-
play the latest collections and footage of Ava-
kian events and designs worn by celebrities
at the Cannes Film Festival.
Avakian relaunches its boutique on the famed
Rue du Rhone in Geneva with the brand's
sleek store concept.
Before stepping into Avakian’s newly reno-
vated Geneva boutique, guests are wel-
comed by two illuminated onyx columns. In-
side, Italian marble and wood line the walls,
creating an elegant yet modern setting. Cli-
ents can sip champagne and relax on
chaises longues as they experience Ava-
kian’s latest designs in person or on iPads.
For those who would like a more intimate envi-
ronment, there is a private corner to view se-
lect pieces. Day-to-day jewellery is on show
in Avakian’s first counter display, while heri-
tage pieces feature in showcases trimmed in
the brand’s signature Tzarina pattern. Four
screens in the boutique show the latest collec-
tions and footage of Avakian events and de-
signs worn by celebrities at the Cannes Film
Festival.
“Our new boutique in Moscow and the newly
renovated flagship store in Geneva give us
the opportunity to showcase our world-class
designs in modern, sophisticated luxury.
Each and every detail in these boutiques was
thought through to provide our clients with the
intimate and personalised experience they
expect to receive at Avakian – from the de-
sign of the boutique facades to the light that
shines on each jewel. We have had a wonder-
ful response from our loyal clients, telling us
that they feel welcomed and relaxed as they
peruse our collections.” says Edmond Ava-
kian
Edmond Avakian brings more than three dec-
ades of experience to his role as the founder
of Avakian, where he oversees the company’s
creative and strategic direction. Possessing a
deep commitment to quality and aesthetics,
Edmond strives for perfection in every aspect
of his work. His artistry is reflected in both the
finely crafted pieces he creates, as well as
the ambiance of his boutiques. Having com-
pleted his education at the University of Cali-
fornia at Berkeley, he joined the family jewelry
business in 1976, with a plan to turn the fam-
ily work shop into an International Household
name. In 1984, the company was relocated to
Geneva, Switzerland, the hub for luxury jew-
elry and watches.
Dedicated to maintaining a memorable
brand, Edmond has developed a line of ele-
gant jewelry and unique masterpieces,
some of which are inspired by his engineer-
ing background. Each collection comes in a
unique combination of colors, congruent with
Avakian's daring style.
AVAKIAN
Newly renovated Geneva boutique & New Moscow boutique

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OUR NEWS
PhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIAN

17
Ulysse Nardin is known for its daring
watchmaking ingenuity. With the new
Hourstriker Erotica Jarretière, the manu-
facture pushes the boundaries, once
again, revealing a side never seen before
– sensuality. Adding a little risqué to its
repertoire of wristwatches is the new
Hourstriker Erotica Jarretière.
Erotic scenes are a long-standing tradi-
tion in the watch industry. Ulysse Nardin
takes the subject matter to new heights
through its implementation of the
Hourstriker movement and Jaquemarts. A
limited edition of 28 pieces each in rose
gold and platinum, the timepiece’s tale is
evident on its dial. A delicate, hand-
crafted miniature brings the romance of
Venice to life.
The scene exposes lovers, viewable from
the interior balcony, enjoying each other.
Set admist traditional Venetian décor, the
nude man and woman make love on a
chaise; these ﬁgures are handmade gold
Jaquemarts that move in rhythm with the
Hourstriker. Behind the chaise is an exte-
rior view of the iconic Rialto Bridge arch-
ing majestically over Venice’s Grand Ca-
nal, enhancing the amorous scene.
Strewn on the carpet in front of the chaise
is a pair of high heels and the tiniest, but
most provocative, arousal – the garter, or
Jarretière. A little seductress, the garter
has the ability to overpower the most con-
trolled men.
Run by the complex Hourstriker mecha-
nism, the watch gongs on the hour and
on request as the couple moves, in the
heat of passion, up and down with the
sound. Simple for the timekeeper’s owner
to operate, the striking mechanism can
be activated or deactivated by simply
pressing pusher one. One of the earliest
manufacturers to lead the rebirth of the
striking mechanism, Ulysse Nardin also
remains among the rare watchmakers to
use Jaquemarts.
An exclusive timepiece, revealing a soft,
sensual side, whether a gift for a lover or
a personal selection by a romantic, it ren-
ders a want that we all crave: to have love
and desire as constants in our lives.
For nearly 170 years, Ulysse Nardin has
forged ahead, anchored in seafaring
roots with sights set on the horizon. For-
ever inventive, the manufacturer remains
steadfast in its pioneering precision of
fusing bold innovation with undeniable
style. November 2014 heralds a new era
for Ulysse Nardin who joined Kering’s
“Luxury – Watches and Jewellery “ divi-
sion. Through this acquisition, Kering will
support the continuation of Ulysse Nar-
din’s path of innovation and ensure the
future growth of independence in the
manufacture of in-house movements.
For more information, please visit
www.ulysse-nardin.com
ULYSSE NARDIN
Ulysse Nardin Reveals Its Sensual Side
with Hourstriker Erotica Jarretière.

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OUR NEWS
PhotocourtesyofULYSSENARDIN©ULYSSENARDIN

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Entice, the fine jewellery brand by the renowned KGK
group shares an exclusive glimpse of its much-
acclaimed Wedding Orchid collection. Entice will un-
veil the entire range of Wedding Orchid 2015 collec-
tion in the month of October. Admired most by the
brand patrons, the range has been specially curated
to bring more grandeur to your Wedding Gala. Wed-
dings are considered special in our homeland and are
celebrated with full pageantry, keeping this in mind;
Entice has added some more dazzling baubles to
their treasury with this mesmerizing collection. The
bejeweled collection is finely fabricated keeping in
mind the pink theme, which looks best when fused
with white gold. Hints of rose gold add a feminine
touch to the whole look. This pleasing amalgamation
will certainly make the whole affair more charming for
the new bride when she teams up a pink outfit with
these spectacular jewels.
The collection this time is outlined in tune with various
wedding related elements like flowers, delicate glass
bangles, ribbons etc. to add that beautiful blush to the
ceremony. The beautiful diamond collection com-
prises of impeccable jewellery with varied shapes
of diamonds set in White & Rose gold. The wide range
entails something or the other for various occasions
related to the D-Day, be it a cocktail party, mehndi,
sangeet etc. You have options to choose from exqui-
site chokers, striking single line to multi line neck-
laces, classic bangles to bracelet, chandelier to
hoops, studs etc. Each piece of the collection reflects
perfect cuts and exclusive designs to add that special
magical touch to the devout ceremony of marriage.
Marriage is the time that is indeed cherished the
whole life by the couple, adding these alluring adorn-
ments from Entice will definitely add more charm to
the auspicious affair and will make it a remarkable
event in your life.
ENTICE
Enchanting Wedding Orchid 2015 Collection

PhotocourtesyofENTICE©ENTICE
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OUR NEWS

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ZAFFIRO

23
In the Zafﬁro jewelry design studio— located
a short stroll from their 1913 Craftsman
home in the Hawthorne neighborhood of
Portland, OR— Jack and Elizabeth
Gualtieri carry forward the artistic legacy
of ancient Etruscans. In their workshop
beyond the lush garden full of hot pep-
pers, neatly riotous rows of tomatoes, and
other gorgeously arranged fertility, the
award-winning jewelers practice an art form
that ﬁrst appeared 4000 years ago in and
around Italy and Greece.
ZAFFIRO
PhotocourtesyofZAFFIRO©ZAFFIRO
INTRODUCING

In the Zaffiro jewelry design studio— located a short stroll from their 1913 Craftsman
home in the Hawthorne neighborhood of Portland, OR— Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri
carry forward the artistic legacy of ancient Etruscans. In their workshop beyond the lush
garden full of hot peppers, neatly riotous rows of tomatoes, and other gorgeously ar-
ranged fertility, the award-winning jewelers practice an art form that first appeared 4000
years ago in and around Italy and Greece.

The technique, called granulation, is a decorative process that consists of applying minia-
ture spheres of gold (or, in its modern adaptation, platinum) to a similar surface and then
heating the entire piece to a temperature high enough to form a permanent bond be-
tween the surface and the spheres. If the spheres are over-fired they’ll melt onto the sur-
face; if under-fired, they won't adhere properly.

Granulation requires the same kind of creative vision and steady artistic temperament
that helped turned the Gualtieris' urban yard into a mini Eden—and eventually results in
baskets full of ripe produce. They’ll use the peppers, in particular, to entertain friends at
their annual “Green Chile Party,” which has been known to feature a local opera singer
belting arias into the crisp autumn night from the Gualtieris' covered porch. Guests circu-
late throughout the beautifully renovated house drinking local craft beers, surrounded by
a great variety of art objects and collections— such as Jack’s chrome flasks, toasters,
coffee and martini shakers, and lamps, or Elizabeth’s gathering of vintage cameras, rang-
ing from an East German Minox spy camera to an early large-format bellows-style Kodak.

From the highly polished and beloved espresso machine in the busy kitchen to the hand-
crafted racks in the wine cellar, to the eclectic original artwork they’ve acquired through-
out their travels, everything in the Gualtieris' house is about creative expression, about
inspiring a mood or evoking an emotion. As artists, the couple have surrounded them-
selves with beauty, from the elegant old-growth forest growing on a volcano in the park
four blocks away, to the colorful wisteria blossoms hanging from a hand-forged copper
trellis attached to the front porch of their 100-year-old house.

“We just love well-crafted things,” Elizabeth explains, showing off her collection of cos-
tume jewelry. “They don’t have to be expensive.” She refers to a quote from the artist Wil-
liam Morris, who once said, “Have nothing in your house that you don’t know to be useful
or believe to be beautiful.”
“We’re like magpies—we love pretty, shiny things,” Jack adds, “Most of the things we col-
lect are highly detailed, much like our own work.” The Gualtieris are artists, but not
“artsy” in the traditional sense, insisting for example that the words “oeuvre” and “milieu”
never appear anywhere on their website, or in this profile.

Their love of artistic pursuits extends to voracious reading (including art books for inspira-
tion), collecting fine wines for their small cellar, woodworking and historic renovation of
their own home, and gardening and cooking. They also play on an adult kickball team.
To know how the Gualtieris live is to see into their careers as artists of the highest order,
practicing a demanding specialty that makes them highly sought after. According to
Elizabeth, very few jewelers earn a living by creating granulated jewelry.

“There’s a limited number of artists because it’s so labor intensive,” she says. “You have
to do it full time to be proficient, or you lose your touch. It takes even longer to become
an expert and there’s a steep learning curve.” In creating their unique pieces, the
The technique, called
granulation, is a
decorative process that
consists of applying
miniature spheres of
gold (or, in its modern
adaptation, platinum)
to a similar surface and
then heating the entire
piece to a temperature
high enough to form a
permanent bond
between the surface
and the spheres.
24
INTRODUCING

Elizabeth first
encountered
granulated jewelry in
an archaeological
museum when she was
studying language in
Florence, Italy.
Gualtieris combine their artistic vision with skilful, scientific precision, working in a me-
dium they control but also allow to run a little wild on occasion. All of which may explain
why the granulation technique has been lost several times over the centuries.

Elizabeth first encountered granulated jewelry in an archaeological museum when she
was studying language in Florence, Italy. Back at the University of Kansas, she learned
the basics of the technique from her metalsmithing professor— a former student of John
Paul Miller, the most recent incarnation of ancient granulation masters. She loved an-
tiques as a child, and remembers that her father traveled to India when she was very
young and brought home incredibly decorative artwork, such as an exotic chess set that
still sits in the Gualtieris' living room. Early exposure to high design clearly had an effect
on her ultimate career choice even though a childhood aptitude test suggested she be-
come an auto mechanic.

Jack, who was studying industrial design when the couple met while working at a custom
jewelry store, collected seashells as a child and wanted to be an architect, but found that
field imposed too many rules on his active imagination. While designing and handcrafting
granulated jewelry imposes its own requirements of technique, it has also allowed Jack’s
creative side to blossom.

Jack and Elizabeth also learned the business end of being goldsmiths/jewelers from that
in-store experience during and right after college. Elizabeth says, “Peter, the owner, was
my mentor, and we learned many of our good business practices and proper jewelry stan-
dards from him.”
After college and marriage, the pair studied and practiced granulation in Santa Fe, New
Mexico. Since establishing their own studio in Portland in 1996 they’ve experimented with
25
INTRODUCING

26
INTRODUCING

non-traditional color combinations for granulated jewelry and developed alloys and tech-
niques for granulating in 22 karat rose and white gold, as well as platinum. They work
almost exclusively with recycled gold. Jack’s ultimate goal is to create a piece that com-
bines all the color combinations.

Much of the couple’s work incorporates colorful gemstones, and reflects influences as
varied as Etruscan craftsmanship and urban architecture. “Sometimes our pieces are
inspired by specific stones,” Elizabeth says. “We pick stones based on their personaliti-
es—some are just livelier than others. We use many unusual and distinctive varieties of
stones.” Jack adds, “Sometimes we design a piece around a specific unique gemstone
and sometimes one of us has a vision or inspiration that needs to be created, and we find
the right stones to make the idea work.”

Zaffiro’s (the name means sapphire in Italian) fanatically original pieces incorporate
shapes and colors of stones from around the world—and not always the ones you’d
expect. The top five stones that appear in their work are rainbow moonstones, boulder
opals, unusually colored sapphires, baroque pearls, and tourmalines. The artists build
every piece as a one-of-a-kind, highly original creation. While themes occasionally re-
peat, each granulation pattern is unique—making the pieces not only more beautiful but
also adding to their value.

The Gualtieris name their collections after friends or beautiful plants or concepts related
to the designs of the pieces in them. For example, their “Primavera” series is based on
Karl Blossfeld’s photographs of flowers. The “Patricia” series was inspired by their favor-
ite client, who wanted more sparkles (i.e. diamonds) in a piece. Jack and Elizabeth ex-
perimented with insetting gemstones inside gold granules to accomplish this effect. “We
try not to be bound by price points, trends, or marketing considerations when we create a
piece.” Jack explains. Much like their garden, he says, “The artistic process is organic.”

“We want people to have not only an aesthetic connection with our work but also some
kind of metaphysical or transcendent connection,” Elizabeth adds. “We want our jewelry
to be a manifestation of something beautiful inside the person.”

Zaffiro’s timeless, handcrafted modern heirlooms have won many national jewelry design
awards and appeared in national exhibitions and books. Their green chile stew is pretty
good, too.
Zaffiro’s (the name
means sapphire in
Italian) fanatically
original pieces
incorporate shapes and
colors of stones from
around the world—and
not always the ones
you’d expect.
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INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

THE ART OF
GRANULATION
The story of the style of jewelry created by Zaffiro begins over
3000 years ago in Etruria which is now modern day central
Italy. Etruscan goldsmiths, influenced by even older work of
Greek origin, began creating jewelry that showed fantastic-
ally detailed images like seed pods or lion’s heads made en-
tirely out of tiny spheres of almost pure gold. These spheres
were carefully arranged on thin beaten sheets of gold and
then the entire piece was heated to a temperature high
enough to form a permanent bond between the surface and
the spheres. The finest examples of jewelry in this style were
produced between the eighth and second centuries, B.C.E.
Even with modern tools and knowledge few goldsmiths today
have sufficient skill to compete with the Etruscan’s mastery of
this process.

This goldsmithing technique, called granulation, would fall
from fashion around 6oo C.E. and the skills and knowledge
needed to create this exquisite jewelry would vanish for more
than a thousand years.

During the first half of the 1800’s several excavations were
carried out in the vicinity of Rome (Cerveteri, Toscanella and
Vulci) which revealed resplendent ancient Etruscan granu-
lated jewelry. The famous Victorian goldsmith, Alessandro
Castellani, studied these artifacts in great detail to unravel
the method of fabrication. It was, however, not until after his
death that the puzzle of the granulation bond was finally
solved, in the early part of the 20th century.

Although the secret remained undisclosed to Castellani and
his contemporaries, they started an archaeological revival of
Etruscan jewelry around the 1850’s deploying goldsmithing
techniques to reproduce some of the finest ancient jewelry
ever excavated. Many of their objects are now in important
jewelry collections around the globe, together with the origi-
nal counterparts.

In the tradition of ancient Etruscan craftsmen, each one-of-a-
kind piece created by Zaffiro is individually handcrafted by
either Jack or Elizabeth Gualtieri. They start with pure 24karat
gold and using a custom alloy “recipe”, making their own 22
karat sheet, wire and granules. The granules are made in 12
different sizes ranging from .14 millimeters to 3.5 millimeters
in diameter. Though they use a virtually identical process to
that employed several millennia ago, these artists don’t want
to recreate historical works. Their designs are a distillation of
influences from a modern world that bring an individual spirit
to this remarkable ancient technique.

Looking beyond the traditional, Zaffiro has expanded from
the classic 22kt yellow gold granulation into a variety of metal
colors and combinations, each having its own collection:
Classic, Chiara, Etrusco, Jacqueline, Meredith and Isabella.
One-of-a-kind pieces make up the majority of each collec-
tion, with a limited production line available in the Etrusco
style. Limited production means that Zaffiro will reproduce a
particular design in small quantities, yet these pieces are
also individually handcrafted and meet the same high stan-
dards as the one-of-a-kind pieces.

The Classic Collection is Zaffiro’s distinctive interpretation of
traditional 22kt yellow gold granulation. The Chiara Collection
is platinum granulation onto 22kt yellow gold. The Meredith
Collection is 22kt white gold granulation onto 22kt white gold.
The Jacqueline Collection is 22kt rose gold granulation onto
22kt rose gold. The Isabella Collection is platinum granulation
onto platinum. The Etrusco Collection is 22kt yellow gold
granulation onto oxidized fine silver (in the one-of-a-kind
pieces only), the limited edition Etrusco line incorporates
granulated 22kt yellow gold elements soldered to sterling sil-
ver. The Chiara, Meredith, Jacqueline and Isabella Collec-
tions are methods of granulation that have been developed
by Zaffiro. In addition, the Meredith and Jacqueline Collec-
tions are proprietary 22kt gold alloys that have been devel-
oped by Zaffiro specifically for the granulation process.

Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri are proud of their particular con-
tribution to the ongoing story of granulation. Given the
amount of hand work required, Zaffiro produces no more than
100 to 120 pieces on average, in a year. Each piece is des-
tined to find a collector who will appreciate the effort and art-
istry involved and hopefully, the history too
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INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

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INTRODUCING

40
FARAH KHAN

41
PhotocourtesyofFARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY©FARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY
Le Jardin Exotique
COVER STORY
FARAH KHAN
An Ornate columbian kite shape emerald cuff
weighing 151.24 cts set with carved Aquamarine
leafs in 18 kt yellow gold & diamonds by Farah
Khan.
Price available upon request
Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but also an artist of master-
pieces and an orator of stories. She can be called a jewel alchemist
who triumphantly moulds her thoughts into mastery and exquisite gems
into jewellery. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagina-
tion that allows her the freedom to make the impossible possible.

The collection – Le Jardin Exotique by Farah Khan is a palette of vibrant precious gem-
stones playfully set in unique colour combinations using nature as its central theme of in-
spiration to create breathtaking pieces of jewellery that are picturesque in design and
form. An enticing journey of mystic mélanges to Imperial embraces, every piece of jewel-
lery is an untouched allure of the gem patio.
Carvings teamed with faceted gemstones and cabochons transfix you into a magical
world of mystery, fantasy and fairy tale romance. Dynamic designs recreate the aura of
quixotic mythologies to blossomed serenities, envisioning the countless stories that re-
main unexpressed. A delightful caravan of vivid dreams that glide through age and time.
The collection is a exotic mix of intricate hand-made necklaces, sautoirs, earrings, multi-
finger rings, cuffs and armlets. Each and every piece has been laboriously crafted and is
distinctive in design.
Le Jardin Exotique will bewitch your senses and transport you into a world of exotic gar-
dens, royal fantasies and mythical mysteria.
Farah Khan-Ali is a renowned Jewellery designer and gemologist who’s foray the jewel-
lery line was purely by chance when she decided to do a course in Gemology at the re-
nowned Gemological Institute of America in Santa Monica, California in 1992. She gradu-
ated at the top of her class.
Farah Khan-Ali has always been creatively inclined. Her sense of visual perception stimu-
lates her senses to see design in the most least expected places. In her own words she
says “I view the world around us from a different perspective. What necessarily is to oth-
ers is not what I see it as. I am captivated by our natural environment and any form,
shape that catches my fancy stimulates me to translate that inanimate thought into an ani-
mate object of beauty and art.”
Having designed for some of the top Bollywood celebrities and people from India's fore-
most business families, she insists on being a perfectionist who loves to please herself
first so that so that she can eventually please her clients. She admits that she has to do
everything well so that it all comes together eventually.
With 21 years of focus and experience in this field, she still feels like a creatively inclined
soul who happened to come into Jewellery Designing by chance, only to discover that
she was born for it.
“When I play with precious gemstones its like creating an object of beauty and desire,
one that outlives its wearer and brings a sea of memories with it when it is handed down
generation.” says Farah Khan
As she says “ I don’t love to design, I live to design” and “the day I discover myself, I
shall cease to exist”.
FARAH KHAN jewellery is distinctive in style. It is intricate yet striking, bold yet feminine.
“My designs are flamboyant, ornate and adventurous. I believe that jewellery should
make you feel like a princess when you wear it no matter how big or small the piece of
jewellery is, it should be eye catching and make the wearer feel special.”
42
COVER STORY

In a short span the Farah Khan Fine Jewellery label has become synonymous with setting
high standards for style, quality, detailing, design and elegance. This is a line of limited
edition jewels that lets you indulge in the luxury of affluence..
"Where Precious becomes Priceless"
Unusual colours combined with exotic gems set the basis for Farah Khan’s novel designs
and all the pieces are set and crafted using the highest standards in manufacturing tech-
niques thus never compromising on the finish. All of Farah Khan’s
pieces are manufactured in house in their 9200 square feet jewellery design workshop
that houses 80 craftsmen currently thus maintaining a stringent quality control and check
on each and every piece that is manufactured.
The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery brand has emerged as a high-end fine jewellery brand in
the Indian & International Market scenario and is recognized for its quality and craftsman-
ship
For Farah, inspiration begins with a strong emotion. You have to “feel” to be inspired. De-
sign is not about getting inspired from what you have seen in jewellery, but the process of
being able to find design wherever you go. It is pertinent to note that human beings think
alike but it is their interpretation, which makes a difference. I am inspired through the proc-
ess of life & my experiences of it.”
The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery Brand is a celebration of today’s woman who is feminine
yet strong, graceful yet determined. It is about a real woman, one that is sensual in her
being and confident in her existence, a woman who is beautiful inside out.
Farah Khan is not just a jewellery designer but an artist of masterpieces and an orator of
stories. Her creations are conceived in her over active imagination that allows her the free-
dom to make the impossible possible and her tales of thought, inspiration and craftsman-
ship is narrated within her bejeweled jewellery theatre.
Pioneering and carving a niche redefining the jewellery industry & the first to create be-
spoke jewellery designs...
She sees the world through a precious gem encrusted lens for sure.
The Farah Khan Fine Jewellery story is a twenty year romance with exquisite gems
stones. A romance that crafts and chisels metal into life,
One that outlives its wearer and lives forever. Becoming classic and timeless, 
Where precious becomes priceless. Today, her jewels leave a signature behind, Farah
Khan Fine Jewellery, is ornately alive.
Farah Khan doesn’t love to design. Farah Khan lives to design!!!!
At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to showcase the amazing creations of Farah
Khan for the second time since the creation of the magazine. Our issue #04 featuring two
articles about Farah Khan was one of your favorites and we totally understand the reason
of so much love for her creations. We are sure you will enjoy these amazing Farah Khan
pieces as you always do.
43
COVER STORY

44
COVER STORY
A majestic peacock inspired tanzanite and emer-
ald diamond cuff in 18 kt yellow gold by Farah
Khan.

45
COVER STORY
A Grandiose Peacock inspired emerald and tan-
zanite necklace with a 51cts Columbian emerald
surrounded by carved tanzanites in 18 kt yellow
gold & diamonds by Farah Khan.

46
To find great beauty, one must look beyond what one can see,
Deep within the inner depths of ones soul,
For what cannot be seen is alas a limitation of a barren locked mind.
Seek then to discover the world and thou shall find yourself as I did find I,
For only when you look, you shall see
COVER STORY

47
COVER STORY
A graceful South sea swan ring set in 18 kt yel-
low accented with a blue sapphire marquise and
shaded ruby and pink sapphire and diamonds by
Farah Khan.

48
COVER STORY
Carved Ruby necklace with Rubelite and Aquama-
rine leaf carvings accented by diamonds set in 18
kt yellow gold by Farah Khan.

49
COVER STORY
Baroque pearl earrings in 18 kt yellow gold with
Rubelite, carved leaf aquamarines & diamonds
by Farah Khan.

50
COVER STORY
Peacock inspired emerald ear jackets in 18 kt
white gold with diamonds by Farah Khan.

51
An elegant diamond swan ring accented with an emerald
marquise in 18 kt white gold with diamonds by Farah Khan.
COVER STORY

52
Emerald bead south sea pearl earrings in 18 kt
yellow gold with diamonds by Farah Khan.
COVER STORY

53
A Jeweled Carved Aquamarine and emerald
diamond cuff in 18 kt yellow gold, by Farah
Khan.
COVER STORY

54
A Jeweled Carved Aquamarine and emerald
diamond cuff in 18 kt yellow gold, by Farah
Khan.
COVER STORY

55
A Stunning pair of emerald, blue sapphire and
diamond earrings in 18 kt yellow gold by Farah
Khan.
COVER STORY

56
Royal Rubellite & Kyanite ring in 18 kt yellow
gold with diamonds by Farah Khan.
COVER STORY

57
From left to right :
Majestic columbian Emerald diamond ring with 19.89
cts. of Emerald in 18 kt yellow gold.
Royal columbian Emerald diamond ring with 30.42 cts.
of emerald in 18 kt yellow gold.
Magnificent columbian Emerald diamond ring with
27cts. of emerald in 18 kt yellow gold.
All rings by Farah Khan. Price available upon request
COVER STORY

58
An elegant parrot armlet in 18 kt yellow gold
with emeralds, sapphires & diamonds by Farah
Khan .
COVER STORY

60
WALLACE CHAN
Jewellery Historian | SEPTEMBER 2015

61
WALLACE CHAN
An artist, along with extraordinary creativity, must also possess
passion and breadth of mind, a philosopher's way of thinking
and a craftsman's superior technique. This combination per-
mits the artist to create freely and set new standards - touch-
ing souls while breaking every frame of references.
Wallace Chan - a legend - continues today to make break-
throughs in new innovations, making the impossible become
possible. His jewelry art exhibits limitless creativity and endless
surprises.
Interview to Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier

62

Wallace Chan founded his own gemstone carving workshop when he was 17. Wallace
Chan grew up in Hong Kong, spending his youth mastering Eastern sculpture and the
Western art of gemstones. After twenty years of sculpting he traveled to Europe to study
the art of this Continent.
In 1987, he invented the “Wallace Cut”, an illusionary carving technique that transcends
dimensions. As a result, he was crowned the “Carving Prodigy from Asia” by European
media. In 2001, after a decade immersing in Buddhist art, he created the Great Stupa for
Fo Guang Shan, Taiwan.
Chan also spent 8 years to experiment with titanium, the most bio-friendly metal known to
date. He surprised BASELWORLD 2007 with a series of jewelry creations featuring ethe-
real titanium structures, the technical secrets of which he later unveiled to the world.
This prompted worldwide recognition in the jewelry industry, earning him countless inter-
national design awards and respect amongst the top designers and collectors around
the globe.
Chan was the ﬁrst Chinese jewelry artist ever invited to exhibit and deliver speeches at
the GIA headquarter. In 2012 and 2014, he emerged at the Biennale des Antiquaires in
Paris as the ﬁrst and only Asian artist ever invited to exhibit at this prestigious fair.
International media has featured Wallace Chan extensively, introducing his creations as
well as innovations, to name but a few – the patented jadeite thinning and luminosity en-
hancing technology, and his revolutionary gemstone-setting-gemstone technique.
Today, Wallace Chan is recognized as the jewelry creator, artist and philosopher.
At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to host in this issue, an exclusive interview of
Mr. Wallace Chan - a legend - because Wallace Chan's unique and innovative talents
combined to his limitless creativity combined to innovative design and revolutionary tech-
nique make him "A Modern Renaissance Man".
Mr. Chan, tell us about yourself, including what you do and how you got there.
In 1973, I became an apprentice for a sculptor, working in a family-run carving workshop.
I followed the sculptor for 9 months, learning about traditional Chinese carvings. After
that, I opened my own gemstone workshop. My 42 years of creative life could be divided
into 4 major periods: 10 years of traditional carving, 10 years of crystal carving, 10 years
of Buddhist art and a jewelry period since 2003. I started with non-transparent materials,
e.g. malachite and ivory, and moved on to crystal carvings in order to pursue a dialogue
with light, and then came a Buddhist art stage, during which I created the Great Stupa for
Fo Guang Shan in Taiwan. It was for the creation of the Great Stupa that I learnt about
gemology, metallurgy, physics, structures and color theories etc., which became the foun-
dation for my jewelry period.
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After completion of the Stupa, I went on a 6-month journey, following a Zen master. This
period of time expanded my mind and my feelings, when I see the flowers blooming, I
feel their happiness; when I see the flowers fading, I feel their sadness. After this 6-month
journey, I started carving and sculpting with different materials to express my feelings
about life. Until one day, a friend came to me with two diamonds, each of them weighing
more than 20 carats, he asked me to create a pair of earrings for him, and that was the
start of my jewelry period, using jewelry as an embodiment of my emotions, memories
and thinking.
Was there a defining point in your career, and if so, how did it shape you as a de-
signer?
There can be more than one defining moment in one’s life. Now that when I think about it,
the moments that are the most defining appeared when I was most depressed. Not long
after I moved my workshop to Macau I started to experience some serious setbacks, I
did not earn enough, I worked without rest, and I could only live and sleep on a rooftop.
Living like this caused me a stroke and I had to stop working for 3 months. It tortured me
physically and emotionally. I recovered, but most of my apprentices left the workshop,
only one decided to stay with me.
This experience has redefined the word “failure” in the dictionary on my mind. Since then,
I have learnt to deal with failures using a composed attitude. Failure is normal, and when
it comes, we ought to confront it with calmness. If we are depressed by failures, we stray
farther and farther away from our dreams.
Where do you get your inspiration ?
I don’t believe in the stroke of genius, I believe that inspiration comes from the accumula-
tion of multi-layered memories, experiences and emotions.
There’re two core elements in a creative process: human existence on the one hand, and
jewelry as a symbol on the other. To me, creativity starts with the very fact of my own exis-
tence. If I erase every preconceived concept and frame of reference that I have, start
from an empty beginning and look at everything with the eyes of a baby, that’s when crea-
tivity comes in. In Buddhism it is the “Baby’s Perspective”. In meditation language: I
don’t exist, all is me and I am all. In our language, it is empathy. When designing a jew-
elry work, if you can erase yourself and enter into a dialogue with the stone you hold in
your hands, creativity will come naturally.
In a piece of jewelry you do not just see the design and the materials, you also read the
culture and tradition behind, and that culture and tradition is on the other hand the cata-
lyst igniting the future.
In the magnificent universe, the Nature, each man and each thing has its own being and
living. Taoism emphasizes Harmony with the Universe, and man, like all other elements,
is a microcosm for the universe. Man, jewelry, or art, has no difference in this sense.
There is a ‘quiet place’ I look for regarding my pursuit of jewelry art, this ‘quiet place’ is
much related to the sense of Zen. My sphere of perfection is my pursuit of imperfection,
an ideal state of work may just be a non-ideal creation, sometimes it seems to us that
something is ideal, but behind that ideal something may lie something that is not ideal,
I don’t believe in the
stroke of genius, I
believe that inspiration
comes from the
accumulation of multi-
layered memories,
experiences and
emotions.
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66
Fish’s Dream Brooch
With a rare ametrine of 87.35
carats as its main theme, a vari-
ety of jewels including fancy col-
ored diamond, fancy colored sap-
phire, pearl and mother of pearl, as
well as 44 pearls, an angelfish of vi-
brant colors has come alive with an opal
radiating colors as its eye. With meticulous care
and artistry, Wallace Chan carved in the fish’s
ametrine a 3D palace using his very own carving
technique. It is a 3D sculpture with contours
smooth and elegant, embedded with jewels of bril-
liance. The world underwater is ever-changing, its
lights and water shadows cast over it a mystery: is
there a palace underneath? This angelfish must
have come from the Dragon Palace, intending to
reveal to us the magical underwater world.
Ametrine 87.35ct, Fancy Colored Diamond,  
Fancy Colored Sapphire, Pearl, Mother of Pearl, Opal
INTERVIEW

67
Let Life be Beautiful Brooch
Let life be beautiful like summer flowers, let it bloom in light
and colors. Let your heart feel for the lively, let it embrace
the beauty of the sun.
Titanium is tamed and turned into a whimsical summer
flower, the petals cradle the bright and beautiful emerald
main stone. The gentle pink and purple hue makes a lovely
contrast to the luxuriant green, and together they express a
strong sense of vitality. Diamonds are skillfully set on the
petals, and above the diamonds there are fancy colored
sapphires. The sapphires radiate gleaming colors in the
diamonds’ sparkles, like flowers caressed by a sweet sum-
mer sun.
Emerald 1pc 10.40ct
Diamond, Pink Sapphire, Orange Sapphire
Yellow Sapphire, Yellow Diamond, Ruby
INTERVIEW

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but what that is not ideal often inspires us to create, in this sense the state of our work is
thus ideal, this is a state of mind.
What we see is never as good as the existence of the things alone, there are many un-
known worlds no matter on the inside or out, as well as many things and dimensions, the
duets of musicians express their worlds, though we cannot understand what the birds
say, there must be another world among their whispers. In this world there are many
worlds that we should explore, if you do this, there will never be a lack of inspiration when
you create.
Is your jewellery inspired from architecture ?
Jewelry pieces are like mini-architecture. If architecture houses our bodies, jewelry
houses our emotions and memories. Talking about my jewelry pieces, they are structured
layer-upon-layer, the gemstones often hold one another in place to create support, and it
is also very important that I converse with the light to compose the space for it to get in,
move around and for reflections to take place where they should. Jewelry is indeed much
like architecture to me. Some of the setting methods I invented are inspired by the wis-
dom and techniques of traditional Chinese architecture, e.g. the tenon-and-mortise joints.
Which is the artistic or historical period you consider a great source of inspiration ?
I prefer not to be confined by any artistic or historical style and period, this is the only
way to keep my inspiration free and ever-flowing. Religions, philosophies and literatures
of all ages are great heritages left to us by our ancestors, thus I am always grateful for
such treasures and am always keen to learn more about the past which I deem as a
strong foundation for our development.
Which are your favorite materials? Which materials and techniques your favor ?
In my 42 years of practice, I have tried using most kinds of metal, and I have found a very
special kind for my creation – titanium. Traditionally, people use gold or silver to be the
jewelry structure, but if we want a bigger canvas, namely more space to create, the
weight of gold will then become a burden or restriction, which limits the development of a
jewelry piece. So I began to wonder whether there was a kind of metal that could over-
come the problem of weight. After a series of experiment, I found titanium. I found it per-
fect for jewelry making. It is bio-friendly, thus it is often used in the medical field. When
titanium is placed inside the human body, it takes only two months for the metal to blend
with the muscles and nerves. It weighs only 1/5 of gold, but its memory is 10 times
stronger than gold. Titanium allows me to make very small claws, and it can be made
into different colors to match the wonderful colors of gemstones. For these reasons, I
have freed 4/5 of the space for my creation by replacing titanium with gold and silver.
In 1987, I invented the Wallace Cut. Wallace Cut is a form of multi-dimensional engraving,
but what we should focus here when talking about this technique, is not what we carve in
to the stone, but how carving is done without any space to move around in the stone. It
takes very precise calculation for the carving space to be planned and the light to be re-
fracted. We must look at how we interact with the light through carving, in order to carve
one face and make it look as if there were five faces in total through the magic of light.
I would say that the process of inventing Wallace Cut in the first place was “a struggle of
consciousness”. From inventing the tools to perfecting the technique, it took me two
In my 42 years of
practice, I have tried
using most kinds of
metal, and I have found
a very special kind for
my creation – titanium.
Traditionally, people
use gold or silver to be
the jewelry structure,
but if we want a bigger
canvas, namely more
space to create, the
weight of gold will then
become a burden or
restriction, which limits
the development of a
jewelry piece.
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71
Emerald Castle Ring
An emerald castle stands high above the clouds, its luxuri-
ant green narrates a celestial myth. How does a castle be-
come a heritage, and we become what we are? A rough
emerald is juxtaposed with the polished precious stones
here to express the destructive power of civilization – the
barbarian nature of it, however, with the right balance
struck, an elevated sense of beauty and harmony can then
be achieved.
Emerald, Rough Emerald
Diamond, Yellow Diamond, Tsavorite Garnet
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In 1987, I invented the
Wallace Cut. Wallace
Cut is a form of multi-
dimensional engraving,
but what we should
focus here when talking
about this technique, is
not what we carve in to
the stone, but how
carving is done without
any space to move
around in the stone.
years, during which time I spent six months working as an apprentice in a factory, trying
to learn about mechanics. I was working, inventing and training myself at the same time,
let alone the fact that I had to earn a living. It was indeed a period of struggle.
But “Wallace Cut” itself is also “a movement of consciousness”.
Wallace Cut is a carving technique which creates an illusion in transparent materials by
combining medieval 360-degree intaglio into 3-dimension engraving. The resulting quin-
tuple reflection unifies these features with precise calculation and angle casting and
forms a 3-dimension and multi-line reflection.
I had to make use of reversed thinking in the process of creating the Wallace Cut, left is
right, deep is shallow, and front is back. It was a process that consumed energy of both
the body and the mind, making it so much more than simply a craftsman’s work. All in all,
I would say that the Wallace Cut is a practice with which the meaning of the saying “ab-
normal is normal” is actualized.
Moreover, the tools that were available on the market were not sophisticated enough. I
found out that I could use the dentist’s tool for it. But the drill rotated for 36,000 times per
minute, and the heat it generated while carving would damage the stone. At last I real-
ized that I had to do the carving under water (to cool it down). So here it went: I carved, I
dried the stone, checked to see if it was alright, (because one tiny mistake would be re-
flected into four more mistakes, and the whole piece of work would be ruined,) and then I
put it into water to carve again. It was a stroke by stroke process, I forgot how many
hours I worked on each piece, but at the end I felt that my mind, my hand, and the tool
were all working as one, it was my consciousness doing the carving. It was 1987, it was
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74
Mon rêve Ring
Wallace Chan has arrived at
the fundamental quality of gem-
stones, its light, colors and forms
with this ring titled Mon Reve. The
tourmalines’ regular shape and the dia-
mond gleams together inspire a sense of har-
mony. It represents beauty, simplicity and elegance, as
well as an architectural style that resembles a castle in one’s
dreams.
Green Tourmaline 1 pc 29.22ct, Rubellite 1 pc 12.38ct
Green Tourmaline, Diamond, Tsavorite Garnet
Pink Sapphire, Lapis Lazuli
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75
Now and Always Necklace
This majestic jewelry piece is themed on the world-
renowned Wallace Cut invented by Wallace Chan in 1987.
From inside the aquamarine pendant, ﬁve faces look out, as
if someone caught inside the facets turns to look in all direc-
tions. The faces are named Horae. In Greek mythology,
Horae represents the goddesses of the seasons, who are
the governors of the law of life and natural justice. The Wal-
lace Cut pendant revolves around the interplay of change
and permanency, the former explains “now”, and the latter
denotes “always”. The pendant shows a face that changes,
which symbolizes the idea that change itself is permanent.
The soul-soothing blue of the aquamarine evokes images of
the sky, wind and water, and radiates an aura of natural tran-
quility. Surrounded by eight pieces of amethyst, the main
stone is cradled by the elegance and feminine beauty of the
amethyst’s purple color. Sweet opals are set around the
pendant, adding to it another tone and texture to create a
dreamy feel. The necklace signiﬁes the classical Greek tem-
ple columns, delicately crafted with aquamarine and dia-
monds, glorifying the sacred presence of the goddesses. A
smaller pendant balances at the back of the necklace, send-
ing forth true comfort in all senses.
Aquamarine (Wallace Cut) 135.4ct
Amethyst, Diamond, Blue Topaz, Sapphire, Opal
Detail of the aquamarine see page 73
INTERVIEW

76
INTERVIEW

one of the craziest carving periods in my life. I surrendered myself to the magic of light
and shadow, and found great joy in it.
I themed the Wallace Cut on Horae, the Goddess of Seasons from the Greek mytholo-
gies. To me, she is the past, the present and the future; she is now, and she is always. In
Chinese we have a saying, “change itself is permanent,” and the ancient Chinese had
another saying,” the people in the past could not see the moon tonight, but the moon we
see tonight did shine on the people in the past.” I think the meaning of life and our state
of being are well explained through these two quotes. Comparing to the greatness of the
universe, or the endlessness of time, we, human beings, are small like dust, vanishing in
no time. But the smallness of our being can achieve something great, and at the same
time, the greatness of the universe is made up of the accumulation of something small.
So I say: Limitless is the universe, inseparable are the big and the small. Every idea,
every invention and every piece of work of mine, are realized and created upon this be-
lief.
What according to you contributed to your success ?
I think I am still far away from being successful. A lucky person can enjoy up to 30,000
days in his life. And as I grow older, I am becoming more and more aware of the fast pas-
sage of time, and I often feel that I don’t have enough time. My creations are my home-
work, and I am getting my homework done in the best way I can. And I believe that, at
the end, only history itself can give us the grades we deserve.
Each experience in life assures me this: if I get my work done to perfection today, my
dreams can be realized tomorrow.
What kind of person wears your jewelry ?
My collectors, no matter where they come from or which religion they belong to, share the
common traits of being conﬁdent, successful and discerning. They don’t go after the mar-
ket value promoted by brand products, instead they look for stories and meanings in a
piece of jewelry. They are knowledgeable about gemstones and the jewelry culture, and
often express a keen interest in art. I don’t have a retail shop, and I don’t do advertise-
ment, and it is mainly “word of mouth” that leads my collectors to me.
For more information, please visit www.wallace-chan.com
My creations are my
homework, and I am
getting my homework
done in the best way I
can. And I believe that,
at the end, only history
itself can give us the
grades we deserve.
Each experience in life
assures me this: if I get
my work done to
perfection today, my
dreams can be realized
tomorrow.
77
INTERVIEW

78
INTERVIEW

79
Gleams of Waves Brooch
The fish swims nonchalantly towards us, its iridescent cloak
rich in colour. Its billowing fins move to the rhythm of the
ocean’s waves as it glides unaware how desolate the seas
would be without it. The fish’s diaphanous sails compel us
to gaze, to watch as it passes by in its watery world.
Wallace Chan is exploring the concept of existence, he is at
one with the fish as he sculpts the jewelry art piece, he is
aware of nothing except the fish; he wonders if such a crea-
ture is aware that it is swimming in water as we are aware of
the air around us.
The fish beats its tempo and its cadence washes away the
masks on reality to reveal our true selves. It brings tranquil-
ity and freedom, it is our reassuring companion as we navi-
gate the waves of life.
Yellow Diamond 1pc 6.68ct
Yellow Diamond, Ruby, Pink Sapphire
INTERVIEW

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INTERVIEW

Cicada’s Song
Great poets from ancient China sang the
praises of cicadas using poetry, which explains
why they are crowned as a significant cultural
symbol in Chinese history.
Cicadas live on trees and subsist on the trees’
fluid, for this they are seen as the representa-
tion of noble character in the eyes of ancient
Chinese scholars. Sima Qian, a famous histo-
rian from the Western Han dynasty, praised
cicadas as coming out of the soil yet living with-
out dirt, standing high above the world’s earthli-
ness. Cao Zhi, a highly esteemed literary
scholar from the Eastern Han dynasty, also
wrote about cicadas and said they resembled
the characters of Bo Yi from the Yin and Zhou
period, who sacrificed himself in protest of po-
litical violence, and Liu Xiahui from the Spring
and Autumn period, who refused to give up his
loyalty for personal glory. Both Bo Yi and Liu
Xianhui were seen as role models for emperors
and officials in feudal China.
Cicadas sing the loudest in summer, their
songs come after the orioles have sung their
farewells. They celebrate life with voices that
are heard and echoed through forests. By the
end of summer, their limpid voices send forth a
sense of tranquil joy. Poet Wang Wei from the
Tang dynasty included cicadas in one of his
poems, Wang Chuan Xian Ju Zeng Pei Xiu Cai
Di, expressing the state of mind when nature
and man are as one, “cold mountains turn luxu-
riantly green, and autumn water runs. Standing
by a wooden door, here come the wind and
cicadas’ song.”
In Chinese, Cicada ( ) and Zen ( ) share simi-
lar sounds. The cicada is the embodiment of a
noble character. The voices of cicadas speak
to our hearts and enlighten our minds. This sym-
phony of nature leads our hearts to the heart of
heaven and earth, and turn all into one.
Nature’s Treasure & Refined Craftsmanship
With extraordinary craftsmanship, the exquisite
jadeite is transformed into the cicada’s body.
Through precise calculation and his sense for
light and extensive gemstone knowledge, Wal-
lace Chan sends light racing and pulsating
along the jadeite’s surface, enabling the green
refractions of light to magnify each other and
sharpen the dark green colors. Precise calcula-
tion is required to ensure that the materials’
potential is brought to the full. The accurate
judgment of thickness, type, quality and color
of the jadeite is a result of the experiences ob-
tained through repeated experiments and at-
tempts.
Stilled Life is gifted with a pair of wings of ex-
treme thinness, and only through refined crafts-
manship can this finesse be achieved. With two
years of devotion, Wallace Chan has invented a
technique that enables jade to be carved wafer
thin, and it is not at all surprising that this tech-
nique has secured a patent.
Colors are interrelated with our knowledge of
this world, for they are full of symbolism. It is a
waltz of colors when the fancy colored dia-
monds’ yellow meets with the jadeite’s green.
These are the two most commonly seen colors
in nature, with yellow from the sun and earth,
and green from trees and mountains. In Chi-
nese culture, yellow is the color for royalty,
while jadeite stands for prestige. The yellow
tone of the diamond and the green tone of the
jadeite interact to enhance each other as their
cultural meanings interact to create a deeper
symbolism, accompanied by nature’s beauty a
touch of grandeur gleams its glamour.
The cicada has in its embrace an extremely
handsome green jadeite (15.5x17.10mm), and
when the cicada is flipped over, the eye is sur-
prised by the appearance of a cabochon laven-
der jade (13.5x14.70mm), set on the back of
the jadeite. Jadeite beads and yellow dia-
monds are set upside down as a border cir-
cling the main stone, having foregone the con-
ventional setting style and invented a new set-
ting method. The fancy colored diamonds ap-
pear in a triangular shape which creates a
sharp contrast to the jadeite beads, contribut-
ing to a visual excitement with the tangling of
form, color and light.
When imagination overrides reality, there is no
other way but to transcend reality. The closed
setting of jadeite beads makes a fine example.
The jadeite beads are gifted with replacing the
usual metal settings, securing the main stone in
place. Precise spatial calculation allows the
precious stones to be set with the smallest of
metal settings, thus creating the illusion that the
fancy colored diamonds are held in place with-
out metal.
On this body of majestic green, two eyes of
ruby red gleam with fondness. The sparkling
red eyes of the cicada shine with wisdom. The
beguiling pigeon-blood ruby eyes evoke all that
is beauty in a mortal world, but hold back, look
at the lustrous imperial jadeite in its embrace.
Nurtured by nature’s selfless love and beauty, it
symbolizes also the virtues of a juzi, which
forms the basis of a person’s enlightenment.
The Zen mind is achieved only through wisdom
and a kind heart.
Each jadeite bead on the cicada’s body is
placed with patience and mastery. Instead of
using a small metal pin to hold the bead, the
“inner mortise and tenon setting method” is
adopted. Here the jadeite beads are given a
special cut so that each of them fits perfectly
on the cicada’s body without visible settings.
The natural form of the cicada’s body is crafted
with patience, as it requires many more hours
to adopt the “inner mortise and tenon method,”
setting the beads one by one. The cicada is not
made only for the pleasure of the eye; it is
made for posterity - a creation of timelessness.
This cicada embodies the depth of Chinese
culture and forever shall it stand to symbolize
the true, the good and the beautiful.
Oriental Beauty
Beyond jewelry, Stilled Life is a sculpture. The
contours of the cicada’s body are delicately
and attentively carved on the titanium structure,
life-like and ready to awake at anytime. Each
line is carved and polished with the master’s
hand, spreading power and tension through
the cicada’s body and limbs, demonstrating the
accumulated experience of a life devoted to
the art of sculpting and carving. This is a won-
derful example of Wallace Chan’s “Wearable
Sculptural Art”, showcasing the excellence of a
skilled and dedicated master sculptor.
The extraordinary craftsmanship of this cicada
echoes the Cicada poem written by Yu Shi’nan
from the Tang dynasty,
Drinking fresh dews, trilling on sparse phoenix
trees.
Perching high, far their voices strew, needing
no aid from the autumn wind.
The poem expresses through cicadas that a
person must stand high and be noble for him or
her to speak loud and clear, to be reputed in far
off lands.
Through this masterpiece, Wallace Chan has
expressed the glamour and nature of the impe-
rial jadeite and merged the noble character of
the cicada with the precious jadeite using skills
and craftsmanship that shine with poetic
gleam.
81
INTERVIEW

82
Stilled Life Brooch
Imperial Jadeite, Lavender Jade, Ruby, Fancy Colored Diamond
INTERVIEW

83
Elation Brooch
This work takes the synergy of titanium and jewelry art be-
yond the conventional to an artistic height. A single solid
titanium piece is hollowed out and carved line by line into a
mother elephant and a calf. Fancy colored diamonds are
set around the elephants depicting the forms of butterﬂies,
by which the calf is enchanted and amused. Rough dia-
monds are embedded underneath the elephant feet to cre-
ate ﬂows of water, a symbol of tenderness, purity and eter-
nity.
Elation tells the story of loving motherhood by showing the
love and care the mother elephant has for her offspring. It
further denotes the idea of how heirlooms, be them physical
or spiritual kinds, are passed on from generation to genera-
tion.
Fancy Colored Diamond, Diamond, Titanium
INTERVIEW

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86
CASPITA

87
Caspita, in Italian, expresses admiration, joy, sur-
prise - literally "my goodness". From the magical
sound of the word's three syllables a line of
ﬁne jewellery was born, a line, which with-
out doubt, resembles its creator.
A deep sense of intuition, fairy-tale and
mystery surround all of the collections.
Every single piece of jewellery is an indi-
vidual work of art and mystery for Arlène;
each piece resembles a sacred ornament,
uniting the seen and unseen worlds.
CASPITA
A NEW MUST
PhotocourtesyofCASPITA©CASPITA

Caspita is an exclamation of a thousand colours, a name chosen by Arlène Bonnant to
launch her new line of fine jewellery.
Caspita, in Italian, expresses admiration, joy, surprise - literally "my goodness". This mys-
terious and colourful word came to the designer while reminiscing about her grandfather,
who often used this expression of surprise in her presence. This spirited word helped to
create a bond between them, in much the same way as a jewel can unite two people.
From the magical sound of the word's three syllables a line of fine jewellery was born, a
line, which without doubt, resembles its creator.
Passionate about contemporary art, Arlène Bonnant is a recognized expert of 20th and
21st century Art.
After having worked for eight years alongside Simon de Pury and Daniella Luxembourg,
she acquired an acute knowledge of the art market. When de Pury & Luxembourg be-
came Phillips de Pury & Luxembourg, following the merger with luxury giant LVMH,
Arlène Bonnant pursued her role at the heart of the auction house in the Contemporary
Art department. In 2005, Arlène Bonnant created AB Concepts and Dreams (ABCD), a
company which catalogued and assured the preservation of a collection of 300 art ob-
jects, analysed and reproduced in the "CAP book collection".
From the art world to fine jewellery
Arlène's profound involvement with works of art and her close relationship with them
drove her to explore her inner world and subsequently led her to the creation of jewellery.
The transition from one to the other came very naturally to Arlène who sees a jewel as a
work of art in itself.
Arlène's major sources of inspiration were provided by her fortunate trips to Greece, Italy,
India, Israel and Egypt, as well as by her deep interest in books on spirituality.
Arlène was also inspired by the great painters, Goya, Mantegna, Bosh, Blake and Carav-
aggio. Each, in their own way, opened her eyes to the invisible.
The Swiss fine jewellery label recently debuted in London with its magical collections of
creative symbolism, mysticism and diamonds at Frost of London. Diamonds and chakras,
spiritual enlightenment, a sense of magic and playfulness are all thrown into the wonder-
ful mix which is Caspita. The Geneva-based brand is highly sought after for its talismanic
collections which celebrate fine art. The jewellery brand is a blend of East with West,
founded by Swiss-born Arlène Bonnant, expert in contemporary art with a lifelong pas-
sion for the spiritual and the sacred.
A deep sense of intuition, fairy-tale and mystery surround all of the collections. Caspita
means “oh my goodness” in Italian; a word Arlene’s grandfather would say to her during
his last days while she would be by his side telling him stories or reading to him, uniting
the two of them. She finds the word magical to this day and thus named her jewellery
brand.
Every single piece of jewellery is an individual work of art and mystery for 
Arlène; each piece resembles a sacred ornament, uniting the seen and unseen worlds.
The bespoke Chakras Collection pays homage to the seven Chakras from ancient India;
88
A NEW MUST

with each chakra representing the individual energy channels we have running
through our bodies.
Caspita collaborated with world-famous designer and architect Zaha Hadid for a
unique partnership of design, contemporary art, diamonds and cellular structures
found in nature, for the SKEIN Collection.
Jewellery by Caspita is made with the ﬁnest diamonds and gemstones in the world,
18 carat gold, hand-painted enamel.
89

90
PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER
A NEW MUST
PhotoscourtesyofCASPITA©CASPITA

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A NEW MUST

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PhotocourtesyofALEXSOLDIER©ALEXSOLDIER
A NEW MUST

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A NEW MUST

ESTHÈTE
Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle

BREATHTAKINGGEMS
By Eva Kountouraki

106
AQUAMARINE
BREATHTAKING BEAUTY OF GEMS
PhotoCarltonDavis,courtesyofTiffany&Co.©Tiffany&Co.
Tiffany bracelet with aquamarines and a dia-
mond bow in platinum

You may have never seen an aquamarine but just to the
sound of its name, one can intuitively create a mental image
of it. A crystal that is named after the colour of the sea-water
can only be an important one. The term aquamarine ﬁrst ap-
peared in the early 1600’s and was immediately accepted,
as it very successfully describes the oceanic beauty of this
gem. With colours that range from a green-blue to a green-
ish blue or an almost pure blue, aquamarine reminds us of
the transparency of a calm and clear sea.
Ancient civilizations admired and valued aquamarine and
used it as a symbol of joy, vitality and everlasting youth. An-
cient Romans would carve animal shaped statues out of this
mineral in order to reconcile enemies, while ancient Greeks
considered it to be a protective amulet for sailors that would
ensure them a safe sail.
Aquamarine is one of the most elegant gemstones that exist
and probably the most famous member of the beryl spe-
cies, second to the king of greens, the emerald. It is a beau-
tiful mineral even in its rough state as it forms euhedral six-
sided columnar crystals that are usually highly transparent,
evenly colored and nicely shaped. This makes aquamarine
a mineral suitable both for rough crystal collectors and for
use in jewelry, in the form of polished gems. Aquamarine
grows in rocks that are somewhat “protected” from harsh
geological conditions which often results in the formation of
large and pure crystals. Some of the most beautiful speci-
107
[PhotoinPublicdomain]
AQUAMARINE
A glamorous Tiffany & Co. brooch with a
109.73-carat emerald-cut aquamarine with an
extraordinary level of color saturation. Accented
with a diamond and platinum bow, the brooch
epitomizes the luxury of wearing magnificent
Tiffany gems.

108
PhotocourtesyofTiffany&Co.©Tiffany&Co.
Flower drop necklace of pear-shaped aquama-
rines and diamonds in 18 karat gold and plati-
num by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.

109
Tiffany bangle with emerald-cut aquamarines and round brilliant diamonds in 18
karat white gold

mens come from the Brazilian pegmatites. Aquamarine is also found
in Madagascar, Kenya and Nigeria, Pakistan, China and Siberia
among other sources.
Aquamarine’s finest colour is a moderately strong, medium blue to
slightly greenish blue. Years ago the public cherished aquamarines
for their strong greenish tint, but in the modern markets the bluer it is
the higher its value. This lead the industry to artificially enhance the
natural colour of the gem in order to make it more marketable. Today,
most aquamarines we find in the market have undergone a thermal
treatment in order to remove the yellowish secondary colour - which
our eyes perceive as green- and leave a more pure blue hue.
It is quite common to find aquamarine in big sizes in modern jewelry.
The reason why most designers prefer large aquamarines is that this
is a gem that best exhibits its colour in fairly large sizes. However,
some African sources like Mozambique and Madagascar are famous
for producing aquamarines which can be saturated even in smaller
sizes.
The largest transparent aquamarine crystal on record was the “Pa-
pamel Aquamarine” found in 1910 in Marambaia, in the state of Mi-
nas Gerais, Brazil, and weighed approximately 552.500cts (110kg).
Another famous aquamarine was unearthed in the late 1980’s in the
same Brazilian state. The miners that found this meter-long crystal
accidentally dropped it while carrying it and it broke it in three
pieces. The largest piece, which was also the finest, was later trans-
formed into the crystal statue known with the name “Don Pedro Aqua-
marine” while the other two were cut and polished into many gems.
This was a very special and valuable crystal that merited to be han-
dled by the best professional cutters. It was trusted to the skilled
hands of Bernd Munsteiner in Idar-Oberstein, who has spent four
months studying it and six months cutting and polishing it. The result
was a gorgeous obelisk of 10.363ct that since 2011 is exhibited in
the Smithsonian Institute among some of the world’s finest crystals.
Old myths speak about aquamarines that come from the deep
oceans’ mermaids treasure chests and that hold the oceanic energy
in their beauty. Aquamarine is an elegant gemstone, hard enough to
be suitable for every-day use, beautiful enough to fill you with joy,
and precious enough to demand your attention. A quiet and self-
sufficient kind of elegance that merits the most careful handling.
111
Old myths speak about aqua-
marines that come from the
deep oceans’ mermaids treas-
ure chests and that hold the
oceanic energy in their
beauty.

112
Tiffany diamond bracelet with an oval aquamarine in platinum

113
Tiffany bracelet with an emerald-cut aquamarine and diamonds inspired by Tiffany
jewelry of the 1930s

114
Tiffany aquamarine and sapphire chandelier earrings in platinum

115
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of gold-
smiths and jewelers. From a very young age she expressed
her keen interest in gems, jewelry and design, a passion
that led her to devote her studies and her career in this
field.
She started her first collection of polished and rough gem-
stones at a very early age and realized that this would be
her profession in the future.
After studying gemology books in various languages, she
attended gemological seminars in Greece and Europe and
developed practical skills to analyze gems, Eva decided to
accredit those skills choosing the best gemological institute
in the world, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), for her
studies.
Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and the-
ory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of
gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the
prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma,
which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA
Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA
Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jew-
elry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Man-
agement Diploma, gaining specialized knowledge about all
the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued
with jewelry design and computer aided design.
Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by
her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA. Eva re-
ceived special training from professional and experienced
gemologists of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and
for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry
design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and
passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -fa-
mous professionals from around world.
Eve is proud to be the only Greek woman who has ever ac-
complished such a distinction in the field of diamonds and
precious stones.
Alongside her work as a gemology instructor, Eva is a jew-
elry and gemstone buyer and consultant for privates and
companies, advising and helping her clients to make suc-
cessful purchases and investments in gemstones. She also
organizes and teaches seminars for the training of gem-
stone and jewelry merchants, salespeople and gem-
passionates.
At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team
Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue.
Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique
breathtaking beauty of gems.
Eva Kountouraki

116

OURFAVES
In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for
you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated,
elegant touch to the most important times of your
life. In this issue we introduce you amazing “ani-
malier” jewellery.
- Address book at page 171 -

118
OUR FAVES
DesignedbyFreepik

119
OUR FAVES
TIFFANY&CO.
BOUCHERON
ROBERTOCOIN

120
OUR FAVES
JEWELLERYTHEATRE
TIFFANY&CO.
BOUCHERON

121
OUR FAVES
ROBERTOCOIN

122
OUR FAVES
FARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY
OMIPRIVÉ
CASPITA
ILIASLALAOUNIS

123
OUR FAVES
DesignedbyFreepik

124
OUR FAVES
NIKOSKOULIS
TIFFANY&CO.
ROBERTOCOIN
JEWELLERYTHEATRE

125
OUR FAVES
BOUCHERON

126
OUR FAVES
ROBERTOCOIN
TIFFANY&CO.
LYDIACOURTEILLE

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OUR FAVES
DesignedbyFreepik

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OUR FAVES
ZOLOTAS
LYDIACOURTEILLE
ROBERTOCOIN
MAGERIT

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OUR FAVES
BOUCHERON

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OUR FAVES
NIKOSKOULIS
MAGERITSYLVIECORBELIN
RICARDOBASTA

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OUR FAVES
DesignedbyFreepik

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OUR FAVES
MATHON
BOUCHERON
CARRERAYCARRERA
MORPHÉE
PASQUALEBRUNI

133
OUR FAVES
QEELIN

134
OUR FAVES
SYLVIECORBELIN
MAGERIT
MORPHÉE
MOUSSONATELIER

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OUR FAVES
DesignedbyFreepik

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OUR FAVES
GUMUCHIAN
BOUCHERON
MOUSSONATELIER
ROBERTOCOIN
LYDIACOURTEILLE

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OUR FAVES
TIFFANY&CO.
RICARDOBASTA
QEELIN

GUMUCHIAN
LYDIACOURTEILLE
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OUR FAVES
CARRERAYCARRERA
JEWELLERYTHEATRE
ORNELLAIANNUZZI

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OUR FAVES
DesignedbyFreepik

PICCHIOTTI
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OUR FAVES
MOUSSONATELIER
ROBERTOCOIN
TIFFANY&CO.

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OUR FAVES
MOUSSONATELIER
SHAWISH
QEELIN
MATHON

LYDIACOURTEILLE
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OUR FAVES
LEVIAN
RICARDOBASTA
PASQUALEBRUNI

144
GORALSKA

145
Born in a family of diamond dealers for
three generations, Corinne Evens grew
up surrounded by rough gemstones with
an aura of mystery. Cradled by the stones’
structural poetry and the jewellery grammar,
she yearned to break the jewellery taboos and
reinvent a new way of consuming... diamonds!
GORALSKA
From the depths of the earth to feminine
and urban high-end jewelry.
PhotocourtesyofGORALSKA©GORALSKA
SPOTLIGHT

Wallace Chan Monograph Showcases Legendary Jeweler's Imaginative World

Wallace Chan Monograph Showcases Legendary Jeweler's Imaginative World

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