Jewellery Historian issue 09

news
portraits
12 Christie's amazing jewels to shine in New York
26 Basel World strengthens its leadership position
30 Entice At Basel World 2015
Sotheby's Magnificent jewels in New York
50 Maria Kondakova Designer's passion jewellery
Todd Pownell Respect for the innate properties
106 JazyChic In touch with the stars
Garrard 280 years of rich heritage
32
86
122
musts Editor's Letter Passion for creativity
08 Issue Globe The designers at a glance
07
inspiration 142 Tourmaline The breathtaking beauty of gems
Our Faves we introduce you to our Secret Garden150
April 2015
Jewellery Historian 005
Maria Kondakova The passionate artist74
Esthète the editor's favorite for this month166
cover story

Jewellery Historian
ISSUE 09, YEAR 01
APRIL 2015
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
Founder & Editor-in-chief
***
CONTRIBUTORS
Eva Kountouraki
Martin Huynh
Christina Rodopoulou
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LAY-OUT & DESIGN
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2015
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Jewellery Historian006

Founder & Editor-in-Chief
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
editor's letter
This period is one of the most creative periods of the year. We are delighted to discover the amazing new creations of
talented artists and we are proud to showcase them to you. It is also a period of unique auctions that allow to buyers to bid on
historical jewellery, created by the most talented artists for the most prestigious Maisons.
Creation is a process that never stops. An artist will source inspiration in everything surrounding him or her. The creation of
beautiful or significant never ends. In the perspective of the history of art, artistic works have existed for almost as long as
human kind. Jewellery is definitely a form of artistic creation.
All art consists of a concept embedded in a medium. In every issue, we work to showcase the most talented jewellery
designers, the ones that are unique artists. Their work is a artistic creation of emotions and full of emotions.
The concept is what the artist wants to show to the audience. Working with the most talented goldsmiths they succeed by
combining imagination to skills and to precious metals and breathtaking gemstones, to offer to us jewellery lovers, the
creationsthatmakeusdream.Theircreationsaretheonesthatwillcaptureouruniquemomentsandmakethemapartofour
personal history. Then, the sentimental value of each piece, makes it precious.
Once more, I would like to wekcome you to our new issue, an issue full of unique creations. I would like to welcome you to our
"fairytale", full of gorgeous jewellery, unique gemstones and the most important full of creativity and passion.
Creation

issue globe
Maria KONDAKOVA
Born in Moscow, Maria spent her childhood there, growing up
in a family which enjoyed travelling and exploring new
places. This instilled curiosity and passion for expressing herself
through art. Afters studyies in London, at Central Saint Martins,
in Art and Design and with a BA in Jewellery Design combined
to a diploma in gemology at GIA , she started working with
private clients as well as to develop other collections
including the ‘YouVdiamonds’ collection unveiled at
Baselworld 2015.
Todd POWNELL
TAP Jewelry designs evolve from emotion to
(aesthetic) experience and back. Romanticism
underlies the forms of expression within the jewelry.
The interaction of dark and light metals mixed with
fine gold and diamonds combine to evoke a strong
sense of mystery and sublime nature. The diamonds
are bead set “upside-down” onto the surface in
pave’ or scattered across the piece. This reverse
setting effectively captures and reflects light in a
succession of broad flashes from oblique angles
creating the feeling of twilight. The emotive
experience is primary with passions held over order
and the senses are moved into the pleasures of the
imagination.
In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and
artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all
aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this issue.

Jewellery Historian
Jasmin DJAHABCHAHI
Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to
create beauty influenced by her love for the ancient
Zoroastrian values and her appreciation of modern western
art. Designing is her world, her essential way of expression.
Being of German and Persian heritage and having lived in
many different locations worldwide gives her a truly
multifaceted flair, reflected in all of her work. Her creations
embody simplicity and a fine sense of harmony and balance,
her very personal translation of unconventional wisdom into
objects of desire. Timeless objects that reveal unlimited
imagination and a fresh vision of glamour intended to grace
the modern woman.
Eva KOUNTOURAKI
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and
jewelers. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned
by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA, the world
famous Gemological Institute of America.
Eva received special training from professional and experienced
gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more
than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA,
transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds,
gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from
around world.
At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva
Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month,
discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of
gems". In this issue discover and learn about tourmailines.
GARRARD
In 1981 Charles, the Prince of Wales, chose a Garrard sapphire
and diamond cluster engagement ring. The vibrant and
striking ring worn by Diana, Princess of Wales was bequeathed
to Prince William, Duke of Cambridge and presented to
Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge upon their engagement in
2011.
Garrard has formed a reputation for distinguished
craftsmanship, utmost attention to detail and everlasting
prestige, for over 280 years.

news
Boutique openings, coffee table books, auctions, exhibitions & events.
Everything new jewellery lovers must know, is here.

Auction
On April 14 Christie’s will offer more than 300 jewels for sale
including a four strand natural colored saltwater pearl
necklace, a fancy intense purplish pink diamond ring of 5.29
carats, and a cushion cut diamond ring of 80.73 carats as a few of
the highlights. With jewelry from major houses such as Bulgari,
Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, JAR, Tiffany, and Van Cleef &
Arpels collectors have the opportunity to acquire exquisite
signed jewels priced from $1,000 to $2,700,000.
Magnificent jewels to shine
at CHRISTIE'S New York
on April 14

PhotocourtesyofCHRISTIE'S
A colored diamond and diamond necklace, by Graff
Estimate: $500,000 – 700,000
A pear-shaped D-color potentially internally flawless
diamond pendant of 25.49 carats
Estimate: $2,500,000 – 3,500,000

On April 14, Christie’s will present its spring sale of
Magnificent Jewels in New York. Featuring more than
300 jewels, the sale is led by an outstanding four-strand
natural colored saltwater pearl necklace. Black pearls
count amongst the most rare of natural gems. Much
scarcer than their white counterparts, they represent
beauty of the highest order. Very few black and gray
pearl necklaces have been offered for sale in the past
fifty years, the most famous in comparison being The
Nina Dyer Black Pearl Necklace, first sold at Christie’s
Geneva in May 1969 and more recently, The Cowdray
PearlssoldatChristie’sLondoninJune2012.Theauction
is expected to achieve in excess of US$40 million.
RahulKadakia,InternationalHeadofChristie’sJewelry,
commented: “After a record-breaking year in 2014 in
which Christie’s Jewelry department realized an
unprecedented $754.7 million in sales, we are proud to
begin the jewelry auction season with this exceptional
sale of Magnificent Jewels in New York. The auction on
April 14 is comprised of superior quality diamonds, rare
colored gemstones, and natural pearls that present
collectorsremarkableopportunitiestoacquireone-of-
a-kind rare jewels.”
THE FINEST NATURAL PEARLS
Prized since ancient times, strands of natural pearls
matching in color, luster, and shape are exceedingly
rare. The early Spanish merchants in the pearl trade
found it much easier to sell fine white pearls in Europe
and it was not until the second half of the nineteen
century that black pearls began to grow in popularity.
This was largely due to Empress Eugénie, wife of
NapoleonIII(married1853),whodevelopedatastefor
these exotic gems. The present lot comprises over two
hundred and eighty-nine colored pearls with highly
attractiverosé,greenorpurpleovertonesandveryfine
orient. Additional highlights include a pair of Art Deco
pearl and diamond bracelets each comprising five
strandsofnaturalpearls,measuringapproximately5.00
to6.60mmindiameterandcarryingapre-saleestimate
of $120,000 – 150,000; and a collection of fine white
natural pearls priced from $40,000 to $400,000.
EXCEPTIONAL SIGNED JEWELS
Great design is the core of what makes classic jewelry
hold its value over the long term, and Christie’s is proud
to present the best and most iconic examples from the
major jewelry houses this April. Among the scores of
jewels is a leading selection from master jeweler,
Laurence Graff. Having established his first retail shop
under his name in 1962, the company draws upon
generations of training to create the extraordinary fine
settings and intricate designs synonymous with the
Graff brand. Further highlights include offerings from
Bulgari, Cartier, Harry Winston, JAR, and Van Cleef &
Arpels.
www.christies.com
on April 14
A four-strand natural colored pearl necklace measuring from
12.65 to 4.90 mm ; Estimate: $3,800,000 – 4,500,000

A fancy intense purplish pink diamond of 5.29 carats
Estimate: $3,500,000 – 5,000,000

A pair of D-color diamond ear pendants of 10.06 and 10.02,
by Harry Winston.
Estimate: 1,500,000 – 2,000,000

A magnificent & rare natural colored pearl and diamond
necklace measuring from 12.65 to 4.90 mm ;
Estimate:$3,800,000 – 4,500,000

A sapphire and diamond necklace, by Graff
Estimate: $250,000 – 350,000

A pair of Art Deco natural pearl and diamond bracelets
Estimate: $120,000 – 150,000
A superb emerald, ruby, and diamond necklace, by Bulgari
Estimate: $300,000 – 400,000

A cushion-cut D-color potentially Internally Flawless
diamond of 11.03 carats, by Graff
Estimate: $750,000 – 1,000,000

An octagonal-cut Kashmir sapphire of 11.88 carats
Estimate: $1,200,000 – 1,800,000
A pair of emerald, diamond, and colored diamond earclips, by
JAR; Estimate: $250,000 – 350,000

Born in Texas in 1900, Paul Flato was the original jeweler to
the stars. He founded his company in New York City in the
1920s and opened a Los Angeles store in 1937. His design-
oriented style, which was figurative and often humorous,
reached its peak in the 1930s.
Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress, was one of his
most photographed clients. Routinely on the
International Best Dressed list as a woman of high fashion
and distinctive taste, she had many ideas for jewelry
designs that Flato turned into innovative creations, such
as the puffy heart. The present lot (illustrated right;
estimate: $350,000 – 500,000), a ruby, sapphire, and
colored diamond enamel brooch was designed and
worn by Millicent Rogers and is pierced with an arrow
draped with a blue ribbon with the words, “Verbum
Carro” (“A word to my dear”). It is evocative of the South
American Milagros icon related charms that were worn
THE “WHIMSIES” OF PAUL FLATO

The Millicent Rogers heart by Paul Flato
Estimate: $350,000 – 500,000

A pair of cushion-cut diamond ear pendants of 10.28 and
10.42 carats ; Estimate: $600,000 – 800,000
A sapphire and diamond necklace, by Van Cleef &
Arpels; Estimate: $300,000 – 500,000

A cushion-shaped diamond of 80.73 carats
Estimate: $4,000,000 – 5,000,000

PhotocourtesyofBaselworld

Strengthens its
Leadership Position
Baselworld 2015
Baselworld 2015, THE global trendsetting
event for the watch and jewellery industry,
concluded the 2015 edition on a positive
note after eight intensive and memorable
days. The biggest and most prestigious
brands in the world, the finest retailers and
the global press once again united under one
roof and capitalised on the myriad of
business and networking opportunities that
are exclusive to Baselworld. A record
number of press attendees underlined the
relentless growth of interest in the show.
Universally acknowledged as the one
unmissable trendsetting event for an entire
industry, Baselworld is the only show that
unites key players from all sectors from
around the world: watchmaking, jewellery,
diamonds,gemstonesandpearls,aswellas
machines and suppliers. The undisputed
premier event once again saw 1,500
brands unveil and showcase their
innovations and creations. With marginally
fewer buyers present (-3% vs 2014),
Baselworld 2015 had around 150,000
attendees (including representatives from
exhibiting companies, buyers, journalists
and other visitors) from over 100 countries.
They felt the pulse of the industry,
discovered the novelties, and purchased
the latest collections which will set the
trends for the coming year.
More than 4,300 (+ 7.5% vs 2014)
representatives of the press from over 70
countries attended the show. These
numbers signify a new all-time record
further underscoring the international
interest in the show. In keeping with
Baselworld's wide reach and universal
attractiveness, a livestream of the opening
press conference was broadcast and
followed by some 3,000 journalists from all
over the world.
A RESILIENT, RESPONSIVE AND CREATIVE
INDUSTRY
The show has been a positive one for the
watch and jewellery brands. With
resilience, responsiveness and creativity,
the industry continues to lead the way
forward such that the attractiveness and
interest that this sector creates continue
growing. Nowhere else are more
innovations, creations and new collections
revealed than at Baselworld - all the
elements that make this show THE
trendsetting event worldwide.
Reflecting on this year's edition of
Baselworld, François Thiébaud, President of
the Swiss Exhibitors' Committee, said he
was reminded of the show's rich history and
the evolution from its simple roots to the
superlative event it is today. "Baselworld is
universally acknowledged as the premier
event for the global watch and jewellery
industry. What makes it exceptional is that
Baselworld is the only show that fully reflects
the excellence of the industry by uniting
everyone from the smallest to the largest
brands representing every sector; and it
offers each of these a prestigious platform
to present themselves in the best light." >
PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld

> Summarising his impression of this
year's show, Mr Thiébaud said that the
feedback he had received from
brands over the course of the eight
days, leaves him "convinced that this
year will be a positive one for the
industry because everyone has
continued to innovate, not just with
creating products, but also with
intensifying communication with the
media and buyers".
Commenting on the value of the show,
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President
of Chopard, is of the opinion that
"Baselworld continues to be the major
milestone in the year, allowing us to
meet and work with all our major clients
around the globe. Our press meetings
are equally important and increasing
every year".
This opinion was also shared by Thierry
Stern, President of Patek Philippe, for
whom Baselworld continues to be the
most important annual event where
"we get to meet all our partners and the
entire global network in a
concentrated time". Mr Stern found this
year's show to be "an excellent edition
that was really successful in terms of
numbers and the interest in our
products from retailers and the press".
Enthusiastic about Baselworld and the
success of the LVMH Group at this
year's show, President of the group's
watch division, Jean-Claude Biver,
said that for their brands, TAG Heuer,
Hublot and Zenith, "the results are
excellent and we are above all our
expectations".
SHINING SUCCESS FOR DIAMONDS,
GEMSTONES & PEARLS TRADE
Baselworld goes beyond the world of
watches and jewellery as it is also the
leading global event for diamonds,
gemstones and pearl merchants. The
best players and dealers from around
the world participate in Baselworld
because of the immense audience it
attracts among which are the biggest
customers from all markets.
First time Baselworld exhibitor,
Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Co., Ltd,
very enthusiastically praised the value
of their participation. "This is the first
time we've exhibited at Baselworld
and we can honestly say this is the one
and only show that offers us so many
unique opportunities. In the course of
the eight days we were able to
maximise the effect of our
participation as we met with the most
importantbuyersfromallovertheworld
and talked to the most significant
journalists. All in all, this has been a
tremendously successful show for both
our brand and our business," said
Kimberlite Chairman Dong Liusheng.
PRESSATTENDANCEATBASELWORLD
2015 SETS NEW RECORD
More than 4,300 (+ 7.5 % vs 2014) of the
world's financial press, major dailies,
lifestyle publications, all the trade press,
the biggest TV channels and key
players in the field of social media from
over 70 countries attended the show to
be among the first to discover those
innovations and creations unveiled at
Baselworld. With everyone from
magazine editors seeking to discover
cutting-edge trends and innovative
designs to bloggers who deliver up-to-
date editorials to consumers in every
corner of the planet, the international
press once again played a major role in
creating an unrivalled global impact
and underlining the show's premier
position for the watch and jewellery
industry.
BASELWORLD - NEVER CEASING TO
INNOVATE TO MEET EVOLVING
REQUIREMENTS
Summing up the successful conclusion
of the 2015 edition of this superlative
show, Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director
of Baselworld, said that "Baselworld is
the heart of a whole industry which
spreads throughout the entire world
from here. This statement is becoming
increasingly true with every year that
passes, as Baselworld strengthens its
position as the leader year after year".
Further reflecting on what makes this
show the one unmissable event for the
entire industry, Ms Ritter very clearly
states: "This envied and enviable
position has to be defended untiringly;
that's why Baselworld moves forward
every year, improving convenience
and impact, and never ceases to
innovate to meet the constantly
evolving requirements."
THE NEXT BASELWORLD WILL BE HELD
17 - 24 MARCH 2016
PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld

PhotocourtesyofENTICE©ENTICE

at Baselworld 2015
ENTICE
For the 10th year in a row, Entice, the fine jewellery brand by
the century old KGK group, from Hong Kong, participated at
Baselworld 2015.
ENTICE showcased its mesmerizing range of trendsetting
Diamond jewellery from its latest collections. Breathtaking
necklaces exuding grandeur, flexible white and yellow gold
bracelets studded with white and yellow diamonds in
beautiful geometrical patterns, long diamond earrings with
intricate detailing, spectacular emerald ring, exquisite
combinations of different unique shapes of diamonds like
pear, round, rose cut, baguette etc. set in white and yellow
gold complimenting the unique designs.
The Jewellery displayed is now available at Entice Hong
Kong exclusively and would come to India later this year.
Each piece at Entice has been handcrafted to precision by
anexpertteamofinternationaldesignersatEntice’sstate-of-
the-art -manufacturing unit in Hong Kong. Each bauble is
unique in its own and exudes opulence, making it a prized
possession for the possessor. The uniqueness of Entice
Jewellery lies in its unprecedented grace and trendsetting
flair, which is synonymous with brand’s commitment to
create the best!
Present at the Baselworld 2015, Mr. Sanjay Kothari, Vice
Chairman - KGK Group of Companies said, “Its an honor for
the brand to be associated with Baselworld, the biggest
jewellery fair in the world. For many years we have been
showcasing our finest of the work at this platform and
maintain the legacy, this year as well, we have showcased
themostpremiumandbestofdesignsfromEntice’spandora
of excellence.”
Taking the rich Indian jewellery heritage and enhancing it
with a contemporary twist, Entice Jewellery offers a classical
yet contemporary style; boasting an elegant rich look.
'Entice' was launched by KGK group at the turn of millennium
in 2004 in Hong Kong. Following a huge success with
boutiques in Hong Kong & China and with an impression that
India is now modern by design, KGK launched its first
boutique of ‘Entice’ in Jaipur in 2009. Entice today has 17
standalone boutiques in countries including Hong Kong,
China and India (Jaipur, Mumbai, New Delhi & Bengaluru).
Entice designs meet the mounting demand for an
internationally aesthetic look, lending a unique artistic
blend to their pieces. Associated by the strength of KGK,
Entice aims to create an unparalleled position of credible
leadership by providing unmatched customer delight and
exceeding customer expectations at every opportunity with
its precious gems and jewellery.
The KGK group, established in 1905 by Kothari family of
Jaipur, is a global corporation with fully integrated
operations in the Gems & Jewellery industry, with presence
across 15 countries. A pioneer in the world of precious stones,
KGK Group has been sourcing, manufacturing and
distributing diamonds, colored stones and jewellery for
decades.KGK’ssourcingofitsroughdiamondsfromDeBeers
as a sightholder, from Rio Tinto, Alrosa and other organized
markets, provides it an easy access to diamonds at most
reasonable prices.
PhotocourtesyofENTICE©ENTICE

PhotocourtesyofSOTHEBY'S©SOTHEBY'S
Auction

at SOTHEBY'S New York
Magnificent jewels
Sotheby’s21AprilauctionofMagnificentJewelsinNewYork
will offer more than 350 pieces that together are estimated to
achieve in excess of $50 million.
The sale is led by a diamond unlike any offered before: an
extraordinary 100-carat perfect diamond in a classic
Emerald-cut that is estimated to sell for $19–25 million.
Among the exceptional pieces on this sale, the "Baron de
Rothschildnecklace",theMonarchBlueDiamondandunique
jewellery by world famous maisons.

Magnificent jewels
Sotheby’s 21 April auction of Magnificent Jewels in
New York will offer more than 350 pieces that together
are estimated to achieve in excess of $50 million*.
Highlights will be on public view in Hong Kong, London
andDohathismonth**,beforereturningtoNewYorkfor
exhibition beginning 17 April.
The sale is led by a diamond unlike any offered before:
anextraordinary100-caratperfectdiamondinaclassic
Emerald-cutthatisestimatedtosellfor$19–25million.At
this impressive scale, diamonds of this exceptional
quality – D color and Internally Flawless clarity – are
incredibly rare, and are considered ‘perfect’.
What distinguishes the present example within this
rarefied league is its beautiful shape: it is the largest
perfect diamond with a classic Emerald-cut ever to be
offered at auction.
The remarkable 100.20-carat, D color, Internally
Flawless, Type IIa stone will highlight Sotheby’s
Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on 21 April
2015, when it is estimated to sell for US$19-25 million.
This modern shape gives the stone an unforgettable
presence,whetheritiswornasajeweloradmiredonits
own.
The original rough – weighing over 200 carats – was
minedbyDeBeersinsouthernAfrica.Thecurrentowner
spentoveroneyearstudying,cuttingandpolishingthe
rough diamond to deliver the spectacular stone.
GarySchuler,HeadofSotheby’sJewelryDepartmentin
New York, commented: “This 100.20 carat diamond is
the definition of perfection. The color is whiter than
white, it is free of any internal imperfections, and so
transparent that I can only compare it to a pool of icy
water. It is the first true emerald-cut diamond over 100
caratstobeofferedatauction–themostclassicofcuts,
quietly elegant and very contemporary.”
Lisa Hubbard, Chairman of North & South America for
Sotheby’s International Jewelry Division, said: “The
rarestobjectofnaturalbeautyonthemarketrightnow,
this 100-carat diamond could be considered the
ultimate acquisition. Simply put, it has everything you
could ever want from a diamond: the classic shape
begstobeworn,whilethequalityputsitinanassetclass
ofitsown.Thestonegivesyousomanyoptions–admire
it un-mounted, wear it as a simple but stunning
pendant, or mount in a designed jewel.”
Since 1990, when Sotheby’s sold the first 100-carat
perfect diamond at auction, until the most recent
examplein2013,thepricepercaratforthesestoneshas
increased from $125,000 to $260,000. The present
stone’s low estimate of $19 million represents a
valuation of $190,000 per carat.
Other highlights of this exceptional auction are a
magnificentplatinum&18Karatgold,ringwithafancy
purplish pink diamond, weighing 6.24 carats set in a
unique mounting with two-cushion cut Kashmir
sapphires of 2.44 and 2.36 carats. (Estimate
$2,500,000-3,500,000).
At the same sale will be sold also "The Monarch Blue
Diamond". This important ring in platinum centering an
oval-shaped mixed cut fancy blue diamond of 6.06
carats,inVVS2clarityandcomplementedwithsixpink-
hued round dimoands has an estimate of
$3,500,000-4,500,000.
TheBarondeRothschildNecklace,anelegantandrare
platinum, emerald, sapphire, lapis lazuli and diamond
necklace, was designed by Charles Jacqueau for
Cartier, Paris, circa 1924 and has an estimate
$1,800,000-2,200,000.

A Magnificent Platinum, 18 Karat Gold,
Fancy Purplish Pink Diamond and Sapphire Ring
Abeautifulcolorcombinationofanunmodifiedpear-shaped
Fancy Purplish Pink diamond weighing 6.24 carats, set in
auniquemountingwithtwocushion-cutKashmirsapphires
of 2.44 and 2.36 carats.
Estimate $2,500,000-3,500,000
Magnificent jewels

Magnificent jewels
The Baron de Rothschild necklace
Aprofileina1932editionof Voguestatedthat,‘TheBaronnede
Rothschildisoneofthesmallgroupofwomenintheworldwho
are internationally known for their great chic. Her taste in
clothes,injewels,andinhousesisfaultless,andsheisaperson
of outstanding distinction among the women of the present
generation.’Whenoneobservesthemagnificentsapphireand
emeraldpendantnecklace,purchasedfromCartierin1924by
theBaronEugènedeRothschildforhisnewbride,itisevident
thatiswasonceinthecollectionofaworldrenownedtastemaker.
Marking an important moment in the history of Art Deco
jewelry design, this Cartier piece becomes all the more iconic
when you look at the woman behind the jewel.
BornCatherineWolffinPhiladelphia,‘PrettyKitty’asshewas
known was always destined to live a lavish international
lifestyle. After studying music in Munich, she lived in New
York with first husband Dandridge Sportswood, often
traveling and socializing in Paris and London. In 1911
Catherine married Count Erwin Schoenborn of Austria; they
met in Paris and resided in Vienna. Upon the end of her
marriagetoSchoenbornin1924,CatherinemarriedtheBaron
Eugène de Rothschild, of the famed international banking
family.ThepresentCartierdesigndatestothesameyear,and
was possibly a gift to celebrate the marriage.
Itcomesasnosurprise,giventhecitiesandthesocialcirclesin
whichtheBaronessresided,thatshewasoftencelebratedasone
of the best dressed women of the time. In 1937 a group of elite
FrenchdesignersincludingCocoChanel,ElsaSchiaparelliand
Jeanne Lanvin (amongst others) named the Baroness de
Rothschildthe5thbestdressedwomanintheworld.Thatyear
thelistwastoppedbyMrs.HarrisonWilliams(laterknownas
the Countess Mona von Bismarck). In 1938, Rothschild was
named the 4th best dressed woman in the world, only to be
surpassedbytheDuchessofKent,theDuchessofWindsorand
Madame Antenor Patiño (who topped the list). Around this
same time, after abdicating the throne in 1936, the Duke of
Windsor stayed with the de Rothschilds at their castle in
Enzesfeld, Austria. While the Duke waited to marry Wallis
Simpson,newspapersacrosstheglobewentwildaccountingfor
eachstephetookwithintheRothschildestate.TheBaronand
Baroness de Rothschild were one of the few guests invited to
attendthe1937weddingoftheDukeandDuchessofWindsor,
who made several trips back to Enzesfeld after their nuptials.
By 1940 the Baron and Baroness had moved to New York; the
BaronmadehisjourneyinAugustandtheBaronessfollowedin
OctoberafterabriefstayinLisbon.AccordingtoanOctober6,
1940 article in the Chicago Tribune, ‘She carried with her a
collection of jewels, declaring their listed value at more than
$100,000.’
Likely hand carried by the Baroness de Rothschild on her
journey from Lisbon to New York, the sapphire and emerald
necklacebyCartierhasadesignasstrikingandmodernasthe
dayitwaspurchasedin1924.CreatedbyCartier’schiefdesigner
CharlesJacqueau,afrontrunneroftheboldArtDecoaesthetic,
this jewel perfectly blends Eastern and Western motifs by
modernizing the blue and green ‘peacock patterns’ often seen
Mughal jewels and artwork. Suspending three important
Mughalstonescarvedwithfloralmotifs,thelargeremeraldis
framed within a geometric lapis lazuli and diamond border.
Composed of graduated Kashmir sapphire beads spaced by
lapis lazuli and diamond rondelles, the length of the necklace
wouldhaveperfectlysuitedthecolumnardressesofthe1920s,
yetmaintainsthesamecontemporaryelegancewhenwornin
the present day.
In the style of Mughal Empire art, the necklace combining
elements of Indian and Persian decorative traditions, the
pendant suspending a hexagon-shaped emerald, an oval-
shapedsapphireandapear-shapedemerald,allcarvedwith
Mughalfloralmotifs,completedbyanecklacecomposedof41
sapphire beads, spaced by 80 lapis lazuli beads and
diamond-set rondelles, further applied with diamond and
lapis lazuli accents, length 29 inches, adjustable, signed
Cartier, Paris, numbered 0310, with French assay and
partial workshop marks; circa 1924. Designed by Charles
Jacqueau for Cartier, Paris, circa 1924
Estimate $1,800,000-2,200,000
Text from the sale catalogue and reproduced with permission of Sotheby's

This Mughal Empire-style necklace
was exhibited recently at the Denver
Art Museum exhibition ‘Brilliant:
Cartier in the 20th Century’.
Created by Cartier’s chief designer
Charles Jacqueau, the blue and
green necklace – highlighted by three
colored stones carved with Mughal
floral motifs – was acquired by
Baron Eugene de Rothschild in
1924 for his new American wife
Catherine. In 1927, Vogue wrote
about the Baroness and her Cartier
necklace in an article about ‘the
beautiful new jewels on the smartest
women in Paris,’ stating that her
taste in fashion and jewels was
faultless.

A Highly Important Platinum and Diamond Pendant-Necklace
Suspending a pear-shaped diamond of 52.26 carats, D color,
SI1 clarity, with excellent polish and symmetry
Estimate $3,800,000-4,200,000
Magnificent jewels

A unique brooch, by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France
FormerlyintheCollectionofMrs.PaulMellon,thestylizedflowercenteringan
octagonal-shapedmixed-cutsapphireweighingapproximately17.00carats,
theframessetwithnumerousrounddiamondsweighingapproximately8.00
carats, signed Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger, Made in France, with French
export marks; circa 1960.
AsstatedinthecatalogueoftheexceptionalsaleatSotheby’s"Mrs.Mellonand
Schlumbergerhadalong-standingfriendshiprootedintheirmutualpassion
for horticulture; Schlumberger’s designs often are inspired by flora and
fauna,andlikeMrs.Mellon’sgardeningstyletheyshareameticulousattention
todetail.UsinganexceptionalKashmirsapphire,thepresentpieceresembles
the vibrant flowers that decorate the grounds of Oak Spring Farms, the
sprawling estate shared by Mr. and Mrs. Mellon in Upperville, Virginia.
Mrs.MellonbequeathedherSchlumbergerjewelstotheVirginiaMuseumof
Fine Art in Richmond, Virginia; among one of the rarest pieces in the
museum’scollectionisaflowerpotfrom1960,featuringabejeweledsunflower
burstingfromaterracottapotfromMrs.Mellon’sgreenhouse.Althoughthe
flowercurrentlycentersanamethyst,itwasreportedlyfirstcenteredbyan
impressive sapphire. It remains unknown if the present brooch was the
originalcentertotheflowerpotwork;however,therearestrikingsimilarities
between the quality of the current sapphire and accounts of the original
Schlumbergerpiece.AquotefromSchlumbergerinthebooktitledTheJewels
of Jean Schlumberger (page 46), notes, ‘…Sometimes that led me to find
solutionsthatwerefunratherthanpractical.Oneday,adealerbroughtmea
singularlybeautifulKashmirsapphire,knownas‘TheDancingGirlofIndia.’
I was astonished by it, and proposed it to someone who greatly loved special
things.Hiswife,Iknew,didn’tliketowearlargestones,butshelovedgardens,
andthat’showthatsapphire-turned-flowerendedupgrowinginarealterra-
cotta flowerpot selected from her greenhouse!’ "
Estimate $750,000-1,000,000
Text from the auction catalogue and used with permission of SOTHEBY'S
Magnificent jewels

Magnificent jewels
'Tutti Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier, New York
TheepitomeofEasterninfluencesonArtDecodesigns,tuttifruttipiecesby
Cartier are jeweled masterpieces. The artful arrangement of carved colored
stonesanddiamonds,togetherwiththepreciseapplicationofblackenamelall
serve to tell a jeweled story that only Cartier could author. After first being
exhibited at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et
IndustrielsModernesinParis,thetuttifruttistylerapidlygainedpopularity
amongstthemostfashionablewomenanddiscerningjewelrycollectorsofthe
time such as Mrs. Cole Porter and Daisy Fellowes.
Perhaps what is most mesmerizing about these iconic jewels is that each
creation is completely unique. As with colored stones and diamonds, tutti
fruttijewelsmayshareresemblanceshowevernotwoareeverthesame.What
makes this a quintessential tutti frutti piece is the large presence of carved
emeraldsandrubies,connectedthroughoutbyadiamond-setvine,aswellas
the chevron motif on the clasp, seen on similar examples of the style. What
makesthisanexceptionaltuttifruttipiece,however,isthedelicateframing
appliedaroundeachjeweledflowerandleaf,theblackenamelprovidingadded
contrasttoeachstonewhilealsocreatingaharmoniousbalancethroughout.
ThesupremelyArtDeco-styleclasp,withitssleekgeometry,servesasstylized
vasesfromwhichthetuttifruttivinemaygrowandflourishfromendtoend
of the bracelet.
As iconic as the floral festoons which adorn its original fitted case, this tutti
fruttibraceletbeautifullyshowcasestheultimatecraftsmanshipforwhich
Cartier is known. Tutti frutti designs have long been enchanting jewelry
connoisseurs;thepresentexamplewithitsvibranthuesandhighlyflexible
form is both a wonder to see and a wonder to wear.
Estimate $1,300,000-1,800,000
The above text is from the official auction catalogue
and used with permission of SOTHEBY'S

The Monarch Blue Diamond
An Important Platinum, Rose Gold, Fancy Blue Diamond and
Colored Diamond Ring Centering an oval-shaped mixed cut Fancy
Blue diamond of 6.06 carats, VVS2 clarity and complemented with
six pink-hued round diamonds.
Estimate $3,500,000-4,500,000
Magnificent jewels

PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS
©MEGHNAJEWELS
cover story
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY©MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY

Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery was
founded in 2007 and caters to the most
discerning clientele, who value individuality
in every aspect of their image. The Swiss-
based high-end jewellery house is a family
business with Russian and Greek heritage. A
strong work ethic is reflected in the
company culture, where every member of
the team is committed to providing the
highest levels of service and creating a full
brand experience.
The company mission is to provide timeless
designs, unaffected by changing trends, for
elite clientele wishing to highlight their
individuality. Maria Kondakova Fine
Jewellery aims to fill the gap in the market for
a fine jewellery house offering bespoke and
limited edition pieces of innovative design
with classic elements, which will rival mass-
produced luxury jewellery brands. It is
important to highlight and accentuate the
beauty and character of the wearer,
ensuring the creations are pleasing to the
eye and have emotional appeal, which can
subsequently create an emotional
connection.
High quality and craftsmanship translate the
poetry of the designer’s vision into
innovative pieces, which can be cherished
for many years to come. Deep meaning
embedded in every piece communicates
the stories and elements of inspiration
reflective of the designer’s experiences.
Delicate and thoughtful designs with
multicultural influences showcase a
definitive design signature. Intricate pieces
reflect the delicate nature of the
relationship of the wearer and jewellery as
D e s i g n e r ’ s p a s s i o n f o r f i n e j e w e l l e r y
PhotocourtesyofMARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
©MARIAKONDAKOVAFINEJEWELLERY
M A R I A K O N D A K O V A

> All creations are very special and come
made-to-order or in a limited edition. Many
have been specifically designed for the
brand’s very special clients. Every element of
every jewel is carefully sourced and selected
to fit the fairy tale that is Maria Kondakova
Fine Jewellery. The brand prides itself on
achieving the highest levels of quality and
innovation by working with the most
outstanding craftsmen in Italy and using the
latest technology, which makes the
creations a truly exceptional choice for
those seeking unique and personal
expression in every aspect of their lives.
This year at Baselworld 2015, Maria
Kondakova Fine Jewellery presented a
number of bespoke creations alongside the
new YouVdiamonds collection.
Bespoke pieces are the core of the brand, as
the creative director loves to work with
private clients and to create unique and
exciting pieces. In the world of mass-
produced luxury jewellery, customers
expect more than just good quality from their
jewellery and thus Maria Kondakova Fine
Jewellery seeks to establish a long standing
connection and relationship with clients
wishing to have truly unique pieces.
Most of the brand’s clients look for rare and
bespoke creations with a personal touch,
which reflects the essence of their distinctive
thinking. Maria works directly with clients to
create pieces tailored to a certain occasion
or theme or to produce designs with
particular stones. Both the creative director
and the client take part in the design process,
creating the story surrounding the piece, thus
connecting the aesthetics of the brand and
the individuality of the client. Being open to
clients’ feedback generates a two-way
communication resulting in couture-like
pieces that hold a special place in the heart
of the client.
The combination of thoughtful design,
strong concept and exceptional
craftsmanship, along with Maria’s curiosity
about modern technologies in jewellery
design and production, makes the creations
an exceptional choice for those looking for
individuality in every detail of their image.
Customers are invited to indulge in the
feeling of being adorned by truly unique and
precious art, compressed in the smallest
forms.
Beauty of the YouVdiamonds collection
YouVdiamonds by Maria Kondakova Fine
Jewellery is a unique, limited edition
collection, which is to be unveiled at
Baselworld 2015.
YouVdiamonds will lead you to the truly
personal and exclusive world of Maria
Kondakova jewellery, where every piece is
made with passion, exceptional
craftsmanship and great attention to detail.
Thoughtful and inspirational design instilled
in each creation showcases the designer’s
passion for fine jewellery as an art form. Each
piece tells a story, beautifully conveying the
emotion and the poetry of the designer’s
vision.
This limited edition collection comprises 11
designs and features a variety of sizes >

The elegance of yoga
asanas is
encapsulated in
precious metals,
which projects a
light of inner spirit
found in yoga
practice. The light
plays on the
gemstone facets
reflecting chakra
colours, connecting
your body and soul
through precious
amulets.

> in charms and pendants, to suit the
individual taste of every client. All pieces are
made in 18kt gold, pavé set with diamonds of
2 to 10.5 total carat weight, depending on
the size and design. The exclusivity of the
YouVdiamonds creations is highlighted by a
very difficult and time-consuming diamond
sorting and precise pave setting process,
which took years to develop and perfect. To
create the sought-after effect in every
piece, MK Fine Jewellery specialists go
through an extensive amount of diamonds, a
process which takes days to source stones
just for one creation.
The magic of the collection shines in every
piece, which transforms under ultraviolet
light to unravel the captivating world of
YouVdiamonds. Some diamonds hide an
incredible inner light, which can only be seen
in special surroundings. Conveying the
design inspiration, which relates to the
importance of self-belief and self-growth,
each creation reveals that we all have wings
that could take us to any heights, any
horizons, if only we believe. Impossible to
guess at first glance, the magic inside the
jewel will remain your treasure until you are
ready to share it.
Maria used fluorescence to create a really
gorgeous collection. Fluorescence is the
visible light that a diamond emits when it is
exposed to an ultraviolet rays. Diamond
fluorescence, in its most simple form, is the
effect that ultraviolet (UV) light has on a
diamond. As a gemologist, with studies at
the world-known Gemological Institute of
America, Maria used an effect to her
creations that truly makes them magic.
Maria uses diamonds that have very high
fluorescence in order to achieve the desired
image under UV light. Each stone is carefully
hand-picked to guarantee perfect fit for
each creation.
To create this unique effect, the specialists at
Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery, go through
an extensive amount of diamonds, a process
which takes days to source stones just for one
creation. The strenght of fluorescence
required to create the desired effect can
only be found in 3 to 5 % of the sorted
diamonds, consequently making each
piece is a truly valuable process.
Same piece, under different light. Under UV light
we can see the wings, which are hidden under
daylight.

To create these unique
creations, the
specialists at Maria
Kondakova Fine
Jewellery, go through
an extensive amount of
diamonds, a process
which takes days to
source stones just for
one creation..

You are unique. There is
no one like you in the
world. You deserve to
have a special, precious
gift that is completely
exclusive and made
upon your specification,
just as you desire. There
will only be one piece in
the world, unique, just
like you.

Maria's ironic
designs made
with beautifully
crafted
carvings give
coral a new
meaning.
Stories hidden
in these jewels
are waiting for
you to discover
them.

Nature’s gift of unique
minerals in vivid,
magical colors will
accentuate your
feminine beauty and
mirror your nature and
distinctive character.

promotion
education
inspiration

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cover story

T h e p a s s i o n a t e a r t i s t
M A R I A K O N D A K O V A
The launch and widely anticipated
unveiling of the YouVdiamonds collection at
Basel World 2015 attracted the world
ofnMaria Kondakova's jewellery. The
magic of the collection shines in every piece,
which transforms under ultraviolet light to
unravel the captivating world of
YouVdiamonds, which took years to develop
and perfect. Thoughtful and inspirational
design instilled in each creation showcases
the designer’s passion for fine jewellery as
an art form.

Russian born creative jewellery designer,
Maria Kondakova-Kaltsidis, has had a long
but very exciting journey to get to where she
is now.
Born in Moscow, Maria spent her childhood
there, growing up in a family which enjoyed
travelling and exploring new places. This
instilled curiosity and passion for expressing
herself through art. As a child, she visited
studios of various artists, seeking her own
style and learning to play with form, shape
and texture.
This creative journey continued as Maria
attended various art courses and learned
about history of art. Impressionism is very
close to her heart as impressionists also tried
to capture a certain moment. Maria was
inspired to continue her creative path and
decided to go and study in London, at
Central Saint Martins. Starting with a
Foundation Course in Art and Design, Maria
continued with a BA in Jewellery Design. This
enabled her to learn to design and create
something very personal to her and her way
of expression. Strong concept development
ensured that behind every piece there must
be a certain meaning, concept or idea.
Saint Martins was very much about the
importance of the concept but in Italy Maria
learned that jewellery can be both
aesthetically pleasant to the eye and
comfortable to wear. She was soon able to
communicate and translate her thoughts
and feelings in a manner that is closer to her
perception of beauty and to connect Italian
aesthetics with a part of the sole, creating
something very personal.
Maria then went on to study at the GIA
(Gemological Institute of America) in
London where she learnt about the magical
world of gemstones. She got her General
Gemologist Diploma and launched her own
brand in 2007, working with private clients as
well as starting to develop other collections
including the ‘YouVdiamonds’ collection
unveiled at Baselworld 2015.
At the same time as launching her brand, she
embarked on another adventure and
started a family. She now has two kids and a
supporting husband. Travel continued to be
a big part of Maria’s life as she lived in London,
Zurich and currently lives in Moscow. Her
distinctive design signature is evident in all
pieces as Maria creates modern classics that
combine all multicultural influences. Italian
aesthetics are blended with cutting edge
design and her Russian soul, open to
embrace everything new.
When did you found the company? Where?
What were you doing before then?
The company was founded in London in
2007, just after graduating from Central Saint
Martins where I was doing a BA in Jewellery
Design.
What or whom inspired you to become a
jewellery designer?
During my time at the foundation course at
Central Saint Martins, I got a chance to try a
number of disciplines and jewellery design
was one of them. It instantly became a
passion of mine as it gave me the opportunity
to express my ideas, however big, >

> in the smallest forms. Saint Martins was very
much about the importance of the concept
but in Italy I learned that jewellery can be
both beautiful and conceptual. I was soon
able to communicate and translate my
thoughts and feelings in a manner that is
closer to my perception of beauty and to
connect Italian aesthetics with a part of my
sole, creating something personal to me and
my way of expression.
How did you progress to where you are now?
I progressed to where I am now through hard
work. It took many years to get to where I am
now as I have a family and juggling the two is
difficult at times, but it is important for me to
continue expressing myself through my art
and to take the brand to the next level.
Where did your inspiration come from for your
YouVdiamond collection ?
The idea was born during my studies at the
Gemological Institute of America, where I
learned about fluorescence in diamonds.
The idea of exporing this effect and
incorporating into my designs stayed in my
mind for years until I was able to apply it to a
truly personal and unique collection.
What is your philosophy and why you designed
wings ?
I was inspired by eleents of the journey one
takes through life. The process of formation of
an individual, a personality and a path
ahead are all deeply rooted in oursleves.
Even though at times we deviate from our
true selves, we need to stop and reflect, look
beyond any covers or shields. We often
forget that throught life we carry an inner
light, certain strength and potenital, which
has been gifted to us at birth. This unique gift
can help us reach harmony and desired
horizons. All we need is to believe in
oursleves, our ability and strength.
But how we can do that ?
Learn to look inside yourself to find the wings
you have been given from the start.
What do you highlight with this collection ?
Exploring the notion of purity int eh idea of
childhood and infancy allowed me to
highlight the unique identity and mystery
instilled in each baby from birth. Pure angels
arrive with a secret path of the future ahead,
a truly secret of whom the baby is to become
and what talents, strength and potential he
or she may possess.
So, they are baby angel wings ?
The wings are not just a symbol of the essence
of an angel but a symbol of being able to
reach the heights which are meant for each
baby from birth. The mystery of a unique
identity is presented in these pieces,
reflecting the eep meaning instilled in each
creation.
What do you like and dislike about the
jewellery available today?
Many companies now sacrifice design in
order to keep costs down. Designs are more
simple and commercial and there aren’t >

> many companies who hand-make bespoke jewellery. Everything is becoming
mechanized and simplified. It is important to support craftsmen who put their heart and sole
into creating jewellery. We are not against technology altogether, we are interested in using
it to find creative solutions in order to make some interesting and innovative designs come to
life. It is important for Maria Kondakova Fine Jewellery to support and work with these
amazing craftsmen who translate years of their experience into making very special pieces.
There aren’t many such highly skilled creaftsmen left and so we want to work with them and
to preserve their skills and trade as well as to create special jewellery, pieces of art with their
hands.
What is your favourite piece of your jewellery? What are you most proud of creating?
I love all MK Fine Jewellery pieces, as each creation has a special meaning and story behind
it. The latest collection, YouVdiamonds, is definitely one of my favourite to work on,
especially the ‘Sweet Dreams’ piece, which is dedicated to my first son. Tanzinite whispers
collection is also very close to my heart because of my fascination with the stone, with which
I got acquainted in its beautiful motherland Tanzania. We experimented a lot technically
during the creation of this collection, which made it very interesting for me. >

>
Can clients choose to design their own pieces? Is there anything
you simply couldn’t do for them?
I am happy to take on any piece, which inspires me creatively
and allows to explore and innovate. However, I wouldn’t take
on pieces which go against my morals or aesthetics.
Do you have a typical customer? How would you define them?
So far, all my customers have been people seeking unique
pieces to reflect their own vision and ideas. Most of them have
plenty of expensive jewellery from world-famous jewellery
houses but these pieces do not reflect or highlight their
individuality. Whereas other customers want to invest in
something special which will be dear to them and remind of a
special moment in their life. Mass produced fine jewellery is
available to buy in boutiques worldwide and so does not offer
the emotional qualities my clients are seeking. Now luxury
consumers want more exclusive pieces, they don’t want to
have the same jewellery as others in their social.
What has been your greatest accomplishment?
Combing work and family life in order to achieve what I have
and now moving on to the next stage and presenting the
brand to a wider-audience.
If you weren’t a jewellery designer, what do you think you would
do?
I love to paint and so I think that if I wasn’t a jewellery designer,
I would be an artist. I would express my creativity through
paintings.
What are your plans for the future?
Immediate plans for the future include taking the brand to the
next level and exploring new markets.

PhotocourtesyofTAPBYTODDPOWNELL
©TAPBYTODDPOWNELL

TAP Jewelry designs evolve from emotion to
(aesthetic) experience and back.
Romanticism underlies the forms of
expression within the jewelry. The interaction
of dark and light metals mixed with fine gold
and diamonds combine to evoke a strong
sense of mystery and sublime nature. The
diamonds are bead set “upside-down”
onto the surface in pave’ or scattered across
the piece. This reverse setting effectively
captures and reflects light in a succession of
broad flashes from oblique angles creating
the feeling of twilight. The emotive
experience is primary with passions held over
order and the senses are moved into the
pleasures of the imagination.
TAP by Todd Pownell is a Cleveland based
jewelry design studio gaining new attention
with fresh compositions. Using combinations
of dark and light metals, texture, inverted
diamonds and cage settings; TAP jewelry
designs have an air of mystery by catching
the eye and engaging the senses. Their
signature style of bead setting diamonds
upside down reflects the romantic feeling of
twilight.
"The experience of melting steel rods
together years ago in shop class started me
on my journey towards working with metals
and using my hands to make objects. As I
studied and explored metals, I began
working on a smaller scale with nonferrous
metals and copper to create miniature
metal boxes. Once I was exposed to silver
and gold my seduction was complete and
the decision to make jewelry came
naturally." says Todd, while talking about the
beginning of his love affair with precious
metals.
"I honed my skills working with “fine jewelers”
and learned to set many different types of
fascinating gemstones which led me to
study gemology. I was mesmerized with the
internal properties of crystal structure,
refractive indexes, variations and hardness
of gems. Monetary displays of gems and
solely decorative uses were uninteresting to
me and instead I admired gemstones for
their intrinsic properties and their ability to
naturally interact with light. Today, I work as
an artist in the tradition of the independent
studio craftsmen and jewelry becomes a
vehicle for expressive desires and nomadic
T O D D P O W N E L L
RESPECT FOR THE INNATE PROPERTIES OF THE MATERIALS

The interaction of dark
and light metals mixed
with fine gold and
diamonds combine to
evoke a strong sense of
mystery and sublime
nature.

©TAPBYTODDPOWNELL

> I approach the process of making jewelry
with an honest respect for the innate
qualities of materials. Noble metals and
gemstones have strong qualities of order
and structure within their internal nature and
this arouses my sense of admiration and
attention for the craft of making jewelry
objects. My work begins with the thought
and recollection that “procrastination is the
thief of time” as in Night-Thoughts by Edward
Young. With trepidation I enter the process
of making jewelry (which is always chaos,
yet filled with joys and struggle too). The
chaos of the process conspires with my
respect of the material to create finished
pieces that exist with those traces of chaos
and order. The intended visual effect is
similar to the tensions of a gathering storm in
the night sky or the effect low angled light
cast across a landscape has upon the gazing
eye.
In 2008 Todd focussed on developing his
design jewelry line; “Tap by Todd Pownell”
that has since grown from a two to a four
person workshop. It is sold in stores and
galleries throughout the United States. Todd
has taught and given numerous lectures and
workshops focus- ing on topics including,
stone setting, fabrication and sharing incites
into building a viable studio. He is a
Graduate Gemologist whose work has been
featured in publications including the Lark
Books series. In 2013 was named recipient of
Cleveland’s Seth Rosenberg prize and was
recently honored with the Mort Abelson Best
New Designer of the Year Award.
Todd is also a Member of Ethical
Metalsmith’s, Jewelers for social and
environmental responsibility, who support
ethical mining, sourcing their materials in the
most responsible manner while operating
their studios with “green” practices.
Jewelers for social and environmental
©TAPBYTODDPOWNELL

©TAPBYTODDPOWNELL

The intended visual
effect is similar to the
tensions of a gathering
storminthenightskyor
theeffectlowangledlight
castacrossalandscape
has upon the gazing eye.

©TAPBYTODDPOWNELL

GET ALL ISSUES
F R E E D O W N L O A D
F R E E S U B S C R I T I O N

Fromthebeginningofourcivilization,thetimesofZoroasterand
Babylon,manhasattemptedtoreconnecttotheuniversewithits
magnificentandmysteriousbeautyofshimmeringlightsinthe
night sky.
Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven by a passion to
createbeautyinfluencedbyherlovefortheancientZoroastrian
valuesandherappreciationofmodernwesternart.Designingis
her world, her essential way of expression.
Jazychic in synergy with Stockert & Cie. launches its first
collectionofhighjewelrycreations.Aseriesoftrulyuniqueand
masterfully crafted zodiac pendants, innovative and
enchanting, strikingly elegant and very precious.
in touch with the stars
JazyChic

PhotocourtesyofJAZYCHIC
©JAZYCHIC

Jasmin Djahanchahi has always been driven
by a passion to create beauty influenced by
her love for the ancient Zoroastrian values
and her appreciation of modern western art.
Designing is her world, her essential way of
expression.
Being of German and Persian heritage and
having lived in many different locations
worldwide gives her a truly multifaceted
flair, reflected in all of her work.
With a solid background in high-end interior
design with her own line of furniture the
change of scale was tremendous and
greatly seductive. Her creations embody
simplicity and a fine sense of harmony and
balance, her very personal translation of
unconventional wisdom into objects of
desire. Timeless objects that reveal
unlimited imagination and a fresh vision of
glamour intended to grace the modern
woman and to accentuate her beauty and
elegance.
From the beginning of our civilization, the
times of Zoroaster and Babylon, man has
attempted to reconnect to the universe with
its magnificent and mysterious beauty of
shimmering lights in the night sky.
In the pursuance of Excellency only the very
best of materials and the most skillful artisans
have been selected to manufacture
Jazychic‘s unique pieces of jewelry.
This collection was created with the
profound intention to unite the most
precious materials in the finest
combinations. Love for texture and color
combined with great attention to detail
have resulted in truly desirable objects that
display diligent German Expertise in
craftsmanship of the highest quality.
Manufactured entirely by STOCKERT & Cie. in
Pforzheim, the Gold town of Germany, all
pieces are of genuine value and will be
possessed and worn with joy and proudly
passed on to the next generation.
JazyChic
in touch with the stars

>shimmering stars of the night sky. About the
complex world of our emotions, our spirit and
our self esteem. By the means of exquisite
materials, shapes and colors, fluid light
reflections and playful textures the opulence
of deep thought is captured in splendor. A
most glamorous gift that will light up the
heart of each woman.
Multifaceted in design with passion and
precision, translated and manufactured
immaculately by Stockert & Cie. with the
finest, intricate craftsmanship in the most
luxurious way.
This collection was created with the
profound intention to unite the most
precious materials in the finest
combinations. Love for texture and color
combined with great attention to detail
have resulted in truly desirable objects that
display diligent German Expertise in
craftsmanship of the highest quality.
Manufactured entirely by STOCKERT & Cie. in
Pforzheim, the Gold town of Germany, all
pieces are of genuine value and will be
possessed and worn with joy and proudly
passed on to the next generation.
In addition to clear-cut design, Stockert
employs the most modern standards to
fashion its products. Each piece of jewellery
in their Collection is unique and carefully
created with ultimate dedication by
experienced goldsmiths and precious stone
setters, handcraft at its highest form. Most
precious materials Stockert & Cie. uses only
first class materials from all over the world.
Eighteen-karat gold or platinum is preferred
in combination with precious stones in their
natural tones, high quality pearls and
selected diamonds.
Inner attitudes take on unique forms
An ambitious company since 1879: Christian
Stockert of Stockert & Cie. leads this business
successfully into its fourth generation. This
internationally savvy businessman is quite at
home with his collection around the world.
Inspite of this inherent cosmopolitan flair,
down- to-earth virtues such as diligence,
discipline, honesty and precision are highly
evident at Stockert & Cie. This company
stands tall in Pforzheim, Germany with its
team of 18 hand- picked staff, each specially
selected for their singularly skilled expertise.

©JAZYCHIC

Gemini pendant
Endlessly charming, in free spirit and
youthful exuberance with a constant
appetite to expand the mental hori-
zon. Chrysoprase stones exhilarate
your optimism.

©JAZYCHIC

CAPRICORN pendant
Immensely disciplined, attentive and
dedicated. Perceived by others as
very stylish and cultured, with a
profound resource of emotional
strength and earthy endurance.
Turquoise stones magically "protect"
your health.

CANCER pendant
Radiantly feminine, gentle and
supportive with an extraordinary
intensity to protect the loved ones in
complete devotion. Pink Tourmalines
present you extra joy and well being.

©JAZYCHIC

LEO pendant
Sincerely generous, dignified and
magnetic with a love for luxury and
exclusivity in splendor. Allow your
intuition and clairvoyance to be
powered by Diamonds.

©JAZYCHIC

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Over 275 years of rich heritage
Garrard has formed a reputation for distinguished
craftsmanship, utmost attention to detail and everlasting
prestige, emphasised by the commissions received from
Royalty all around the world. With over 275 years of rich
heritage,Garrardhasmetthechallengetoharnessitsunique
past with modern day relevance. Garrard’s combination of
tradition and contemporary design is synonymous with
creatingmagnificentjewellerytoday,tobecomeheirloomsfor
tomorrow.
GARRARD

2 8 0 y e a r s o f r i c h h e r i t a g e
GARRARD
Garrard’s history of luxury and grandeur began in 1735
whenjournalentriesstartwithaBritishRoyalcommission
for Frederick, Prince of Wales, followed by many more
for international royalty and the upper echelons of
societyworldwide.Garrardhassincehadthehonourof
serving each successive King and Queen of Great
Britain.
With over 275 years of rich heritage, Garrard has met
the challenge to harness its unique past with modern
dayrelevance.Garrard’scombinationoftraditionand
contemporary design is inspiring.
Their in-house design team creates innovative
collections as well as unique one-of-a-kind treasures
using only the finest gems in the world. Their High
Jewellery, is handcrafted in London. Each piece is
carefullyandintricatelydesignedfortheclientseeking
perfectionintheaestheticandverifiesthattheGarrard
design ethos is abundant with luxury, comfort and style.
Garrard has an illustrious story with the Royal family. This
illustrious story began in 1840 when Prince Albert
commissioned the house to create a striking sapphire
andwhitediamondclusterbroochasaweddinggiftto
his future wife, Queen Victoria of England. The great
romance blossomed with nine children, of which the
eldest son, Edward, the Prince of Wales, would
commissionGarrardforadiamondandpearlparureas
a gift to his future bride, Princess Alexandra of Denmark
in 1863.
Garrard continued to serve the British Royal family and
by 1919, the firm was credited for designing and
crafting Queen Mary’s Fringe Tiara. Inspired by
emerging Russian trends, the tiara was a cherished
modern piece and later worn by Her Majesty Queen
Elizabeth II on her wedding day in 1947.
In 1981 Charles, the Prince of Wales, chose a Garrard
sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring. The
vibrant and striking ring worn by Diana, Princess of
Wales was bequeathed to Prince William, Duke of
Cambridge and presented to Catherine, Duchess of
Cambridge upon their engagement in 2011.
A Garrard engagement ring preserves its classic
beauty becoming a cherished heirloom to be passed
down through generations.
Garrard celebrated its 280th anniversary with the
launch of its exquisite new Bow collection at the 2015
Baselworld fair.
The Bow collection features elegant signature pieces,
crafted in rose gold and delicately highlighted in
diamonds, as well as awe-inspiring diamond creations
including contemporary up-the-ear earrings and
double-finger ring. The collection includes two
remarkable High Jewellery necklaces, embracing the
Garrard values of traditional craftsmanship and
forward-thinkingdesign.Theremagnificentpiecescan
be worn in a multitude of ways, creating a complete,
matching High Jewellery set.
In its modern day interpretation, the bow is a symbol of
celebration,asaribbonisoftentiedasamementoofan
anniversary or birthday, marking a special occasion in
life.EachtimelesspieceoftheBowcollectioniscreated
fromasoftflowingribbonofgoldanddiamonds,gently
tied in a bow to capture an everlasting moment of
celebration that will appeal to women around the
world.
Garrard. Creating magnificent jewellery today, to
become heirlooms of tomorrow.

You can download every issue for your personal use.
For further information visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com

Pink tourmaline and diamond ring handcrafted
with a 15.03 carat cushion pink tourmaline center
stone accented with 0.77 carats of brilliant diamond
rounds set in platinum and 18K rose gold.
Ring by OMI Privé
PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIVÉ
©OMIPRIVÉ

Tourmaline probably holds the first place
among the most colorful gemstones known.
A fact that most people do not know is that
tourmalines are not simply pretty gems but
they are a group of minerals that contains
more than 10 species with complex
chemical compositions, which are
responsible for the gem’s beautiful variety of
hues. Tourmaline possible colours range
from colorless to pure black, including all the
rainbow hues and all tones possible, while it is
also very famous for the amazing
combinations of several colours that occur
together in one crystal. The name
tourmaline is said to derive from a Sinhalese
word meaning “mixed colored stones”
originally applied to groups of gemstones of
various species.
One of the major sources of tourmaline is
South America where many misnomers are
used to describe the different varieties. For
example green tourmaline is often
erroneously referred to as “Brazilian
emerald” or blue tourmaline is wrongfully
called “Brazilian sapphire”, as a reference to
those famous gems. Because of
tourmaline’s wide variety of possible colours
it has often been used to imitate or was
mistaken for other gemstones. One of those
historic “misunderstandings” is a piece from
the Russian Crown jewels collection that for
years was though to carry a large ruby but
the gem was later found to be a red
tourmaline.
Tourmaline was also prized through history.
Chinese emperors admired this gemstone’s
beauty and were buying large quantities
that they often carved in intricate shapes for
practical and decorative objects such as
buttons and toggles for the clothing of the
royals and the wealthy. Chinese empress Tzu
Hsi loved tourmaline so much –especially
the pink one mined in California- that after
using it as an ornament throughout her life,
she requested a tourmaline pillow for her
eternal rest. Some objects of sensational
beauty and craftsmanship such as snuff
bottles carved out of tourmaline are seen in
Tourmaline
The unique breathtaking beauty of gems
by Eva Kountouraki

> Tourmaline, apart from its beauty, is naturally gifted with some features that
are of great interest to the scientific community. In fact, tourmaline is a
pyroelectric and piezoelectric mineral, meaning that it can develop an
electrostatic charge when heated or pressed along specific directions. Its
piezoelectricity is a useful property that has found many industrial
applications like in the production of pressure gauges for sensitive equipment
for submarines or even for the measurements of bomb blast power. The Dutch
traders who brought tourmaline to the European markets were using these
properties in their everyday life, before those were scientifically proven. In
fact, they would heat tourmaline crystals by rubbing them, in order to clean
the ashes from their pipes, as they have found out that tourmaline’s electrical
charge could attract small particles and dust.>
An amazing Paraiba
tourmaline ring by
Carla Amorim
PhotocourtesyofCARLAAMORIM
©CARLAAMORIM

“ One of the rarest and most highly prized
and priced tourmalines is the one
discovered in 1989 in Paraíba Brazil,
and named after this location. The
paraíba tourmalines exhibit an
incredibly intense blue-green colour with
such a high saturation that is often
described as “neon blue”. ”
These amazing earrings with paraiba tourmalines
by Orlov, has been previously shown in our issue 3

> Tourmaline is breathtakingly beautiful in all its colours and the combinations of them, and
the most intense and highly saturated hues are the ones that are preferred in the market and
require high prices. Intense reds, mysterious blues and pure greens, multicolored or
watermelon – a beautiful variety of tourmaline that resembles this fruit as it has a green outer
rim and pink to red core-, you can find a tourmaline to satisfy every taste! One of the rarest
and most highly prized and priced tourmalines is the one discovered in 1989 in Paraíba Brazil,
and named after this location. The paraíba tourmalines exhibit an incredibly intense blue-
green colour with such a high saturation that is often described as “neon blue”. This exquisite
type of tourmaline has been found also in some African mines; still the high quality Brazilian
material often requires premium prices in the market. In order to be called paraíba, this
tourmaline must exhibit equal amounts of blue and green pleochroic hues and have vivid
saturation. Too blue, too green, too dark or too light, cannot qualify as paraíba and will not
fetch the prices of a true high quality paraíba, although they may still be gorgeous.
Tourmaline is a hard and durable gemstone that with proper care can last for centuries.
However it requires sensitive handling -just like all the precious things- as well as protection
from harsh use and sharp blows.
Humans were always dazzled by the beauty of tourmaline’s colours. An ancient Egyptian
legend has it that tourmaline has travelled a long journey from the earth’s core towards the
sun and collected all the rainbow colours along the way.. Because its beautiful colours are
directly connected to the chemistry of the environment in which it forms, slight changes in
the chemical and physical conditions result in variations in the colours of the growing crystal,
naturally giving almost all tourmalines a unique look and character.
Earrings set with
Paraiba tourmalines
and diamonds by Carla
Amorim
PhotocourtesyofCARLAAMORIM
©CARLAAMORIM

Eva Kountouraki was born and raised
in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers.
Succeeding unprecedented results in
the practice and theory of gemology,
analyzing and identifying thousands
of gemstones and diamonds, she
graduated and acquired the
prestigious certificate GIA Graduate
Gemologist Diploma, which includes
specific studies in diamond grading
(GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma)
and colored gemstones (GIA
Graduate Colored Stones Diploma).
Her studies in the jewelry field
continued and Eva got her Jewelry
Business Management Diploma,
gainingspecializedknowledgeabout
all the aspects of the jewelry industry.
Her training continued with jewelry
design and computer aided design.
Eva’s brilliant path in the field of
gemology was crowned by her
collaborationwiththeItalianbranchof
GIA. Eva received special training
from professional and experienced
gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and
California US, and for more than a
decade she teaches gemology and
jewelry design in GIA, transferring her
experience, knowledge and passion
for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her
students -famous professionals from
around world.
AttheJewelleryHistorianweareproud
to have in our team Eva Kountouraki
andhermonthlycolumnineveryissue.
Every month, discover a new
gemstone and the unique
breathtaking beauty of gems.
Eva Kountouraki
These OMI Privé Pink
tourmaline and
diamond earrings
handrafted with 11.26
carats of pear shaped
pink tourmalines
accented with 0.62
carats of brilliant
diamond rounds set in
18K rose gold.
PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIVÉ
©OMIPRIVÉ

In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery
for you to choose , enabling you to add a
sophisticated, elegant touch to the most
important times of your life. In this issue we
invite you in our "Printemps animalier".
Our Faves

Our Faves
SYLVIE CORBELIN

SYLVIE CORBELIN
ILIAS LALAOUNIS
FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY
BORGIONI

Our Faves
SHAWISH GENEVE

LEYLA ADBOLLAHI
LYDIA COURTEILLE
LE VIAN
JAZYCHIC

Our Faves
MORPHÉE
JOAILLERIE

CARRERA Y CARRERA
NIKOS KOULIS
LYDIA COURTEILLE
ELENA SYRAKA

Our Faves
MAGERIT JOYAS

BORGIONI
MAGERIT JOYASELENA SYRAKA

Our Faves
LEYLA ABDOLLAHI

NIKOS KOULIS
GARRARD
CROW'S NEST

Our Faves
MAGERIT JOYAS

MAGERIT JOYAS
LYDIA COURTEILLE
ZOLOTAS
ELENA SYRAKA
CARRERA Y CARRERA

address book
ADLER
www.adler-joailliers.com
AVAKIAN
www.avakian.com
ANA DE COSTA
www.anadecosta.com
CARRERA Y CARRERA
www.carreraycarrera.com
CHIMENTO
www.chimento.it
CROW'S NEST
www.crowsnestjewels.com
CHRISTIE'S
www.christies.com
DANIELA VILLEGAS
www.danielavillegas.com
ELENA SYRAKA
www.elenasyraka.com
FABERGÉ
www.faberge.com
FANOURAKIS
www.fanourakis.gr
www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com
GARRARD
www.garrard.com
GUMUCHIAN
www.gumuchian.com
ILIAS LALAOUNIS
www.iliaslalaounis.com
JAZYCHIC
www.jazychic.com
JEWELLERY THEATRE
www.jewellerytheatre.com
LE VIAN
www.levian.com
LEYLA ABDOLLAHI
www.leyla-abdollahi.com
LYDIA COURTEILLE
www.lydiacourteille.com
MAGERIT JOYAS
www.mageritjoyas.com
MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
www.morphee-joaillerie.com
MARIA KONDAKOVA FINE JEWELLERY
www.mariakondakova.com
MOUSSON ATELIER
www.moussonatelier.ru
NIKOS KOULIS
www.nikoskoulis.gr
OMI PRIVÉ
www.omiprive.com
ORLOV JEWELRY
www.orlovjewelry.com
SOTHEBY'S
www.sothebys.com
SYLVIE CORBELLIN
www.sylvie-corbelin.com/sc/
SHAWISH
www.shawish.ch
TAP by TODD POWNELL
www.tapbytoddpownell.com
ZOLOTAS
www.zolotas.gr
brands featured in this issue

esthète
Une personne qui considère l'art comme une valeur essentielle

Jewellery Historian issue 09

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Jewellery Historian issue 09