An international brand/business analysis of Burberry.Burberry is one of the leading British luxurious clothing brand, having a great iconic history of about 200 years.
Burberry - Brand identity and artification analysisAda Di Matteo
The brand identity analysis is carried out by means of Kapferer's Brand Identity Prism. As many other luxury brands, Burberry is engaged in a process of artification (transformation of non-art into art). An analysis of the brand's art initiatives follows.
Burberry group PLC is one of the leading manufacturers of high-end luxury goods. They specialize in selling outwear, accessories, fragrance, clothing for women, men and children. The iconic checkered or tartan pattern of Burberry is a distinctive style adopted by the company. Originally founded in 1856 and was bought by Great Universal stores PLC in 1955 (Phan, Thomas and Heine, 2011). Company has managed to sustain and thrive. In 2006, Angela Ahrendts took over the company from Rose Bravo. She brought in a number of innovative marketing strategies of the company. During Angela Ahrendts a “Multi Dimensional strategy” was adopted in order to make sales. According to a 2013 report net asset value of Burberry was estimated to be 4.34 Billion (Johansson, 2014). In 2014 Christopher Bailey Took over the company and has been presiding over the company as CEO (Ward, and Dahl, 2014). The thorough marketing and brand strategy made by Burberry is explained in detail in the following.
Describe Burberry business Model with the brand management highlights based on the paper "The Burberry business model: creating an international luxury fashion brand by:Christopher M. Moore and Grete Birtwistle"
Burberry - Brand identity and artification analysisAda Di Matteo
The brand identity analysis is carried out by means of Kapferer's Brand Identity Prism. As many other luxury brands, Burberry is engaged in a process of artification (transformation of non-art into art). An analysis of the brand's art initiatives follows.
Burberry group PLC is one of the leading manufacturers of high-end luxury goods. They specialize in selling outwear, accessories, fragrance, clothing for women, men and children. The iconic checkered or tartan pattern of Burberry is a distinctive style adopted by the company. Originally founded in 1856 and was bought by Great Universal stores PLC in 1955 (Phan, Thomas and Heine, 2011). Company has managed to sustain and thrive. In 2006, Angela Ahrendts took over the company from Rose Bravo. She brought in a number of innovative marketing strategies of the company. During Angela Ahrendts a “Multi Dimensional strategy” was adopted in order to make sales. According to a 2013 report net asset value of Burberry was estimated to be 4.34 Billion (Johansson, 2014). In 2014 Christopher Bailey Took over the company and has been presiding over the company as CEO (Ward, and Dahl, 2014). The thorough marketing and brand strategy made by Burberry is explained in detail in the following.
Describe Burberry business Model with the brand management highlights based on the paper "The Burberry business model: creating an international luxury fashion brand by:Christopher M. Moore and Grete Birtwistle"
This case entitled “Burberry” by Youngme Moon presents the scenario a British luxury goods company “Burberry” under the leadership of Rose Marie Bravo, the new CEO of the company, who completely transformed the company with a battered, rustic brand into a classic yet contemporary brand. Burberry is one of the oldest fashion businesses of the world, founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry. During this period of almost 150 years, Burberry provided many remarkable products, the most notable being the gabardine-made trench coats, that it invented and the classic iconic “Burberry Check”, the camel, black, red and white plaid design that became its identity. In this period, the company saw many highs (extreme popularity) serving the Royal customers, celebrities, politicians as its clientele but as it approached the late 1990s, it started getting tapped in its own old-fashioned products and thus, its brand value greatly diluted due to parallel trading, counterfeits and lose control over its distribution channel. But as Rose Marie Bravo joined the team, she completely revamped the company’s brand equity, product line, and distribution system and gave a new life to the company. The result was the company sales rose from £225 million in FY 2000 to £594 million in FY 2003.
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Marketing Strategy for Aquascutum Brand RevivalJing Huang
This project will look at the British fashion brand Aquascutum and look at the marketing of the brand and its contribution to the downfall of this brand that recently left it in administration. Its subsequent rescue by a Hong Kong based firm is very interesting because they obviously see the value in the brand that no other UK companies did. The owners of the new brand now have to make difficult decisions regarding what to do with this brand going forward.
Brands often fail, times change and people’s tastes move. However, Aquascutum found itself struggling at precisely the time when another brand, Burberry was soaring with success. I found the, on the surface at least, the story behind these two brands, and even their products, were so similar that this would be a fascinating case to look at how brand marketing strategy can have incredibly powerful effects on a brand.
This project is intended to provide recommendations for the future brand strategy of Aquascutum by first examining the market that the brand operates in and then analysing its marketing activities. I regard the failure of the company as largely a failure of its marketing function as it failed to listen to the demands of the market. Its revival will therefore need to be informed by those changing demands and the failures of its marketing. The future recommendations for the brand will provide a specific strategy for the future and detailed analysis of what aspects of the marketing mix the brand needs to change in order to achieve the necessary changes to revive this brand.
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External Communication: It provides clarity to external parties, such as investors, creditors, and regulatory authorities, regarding the company's objectives and powers.
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2. History
Founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry in
Basingstoke, England
Innovative in fabric and outwear design
1895 Burberry develops a coat for British officers
during the Boer War: early trench
1914 Epaulettes and „D“ rings are added: Birth of
the trench coat
1955 Burberry was awarded a Royal Warrant by
Queen Elizabeth II
3. Heritage
Outerwear core with adventure/exploration history
Iconic products
Burberry was originally synonymous with quality and durability
Was part of regulation uniform for soldiers duringWW I
Received royal warrant by British royal family
(Burberry check) world’s most recognized and widely copied
tartan pattern
Past: classic, rogue outerwear brand. Future: next generation,
Fashionable youth. “Burberry chic”
5. Corporate Identity
1920 The Burberry Check, registered as a
trademark, was introduced as a lining to the
trench coat.
Itwas later used for a broad variety of accessories
and clothes and became more symbolic as the
actual logo
6. BRAND & CULTURE:
Quintessential British fashion with outerwear core
-One of the oldest & most respected British labels
-Leading luxury brand with global business found in 26 stores worldwide
-Iconic trench coat, trademark check and Prorsum knight heritage logo
-Brand leader in digital communication (social media, burberry.com, fashion
shows)
-Personalized customer care offering consumers a superior shopping
experience
-Social Responsibility (Burberry Foundation)
7. USP
Authentic British heritage
Rooted in integrity of outerwear
Broad consumer appeal
Across genders and generations
Global reach
8.
9. Consistent execution of key strategies
LEVERAGE THE FRANCHISE
Outerwear around half of apparel sales
Significant opportunity in menswear; grow tailoring
Unlock the potential in licensing
Directly operating fragrance and beauty
• Greater brand control
• Under-penetrated; significant opportunity
Digital marketing critical for reach and engagement
Innovation in social media: nearly 15m Facebook fans
10. INTENSIFY NON-APPAREL
Innovation in large leather goods, half of non-
apparel
Significant opportunity in men’s accessories,
especially in male-focused Emerging Markets
Continued opportunity in soft and shoes
11. ACCELERATE RETAIL-LED GROWTH
RETAIL-LED GROWTH
Investing in flagship markets, biased to
Larger store formats
Focus on driving retail productivity through
Monthly floor sets and replenishment
Building customer centricity with investment
in customer insight
12. INVEST IN UNDER-PENETRATED MARKETS
Move from franchise to direct control over time; Increase investment
in retail and infrastructure
Drive productivity in China; evolve store network
Develop new high potential markets including
Middle East, Central/Latin America and India
Continued opportunity in US wholesale; 9% of group retail/wholesale
revenue
13. PURSUE OPERATIONALEXCELLENCE
Support business growth in logistics
Drive efficiency through existing supply chain infrastructure
Improve assortment planning and reduce inventory growth
16. STRONG FOUNDATION FOR SUSTAINED PROFITABLE
GROWTH
BY CHANNEL
Retail expansion: c. 12-14% new space
in FY 2013
BY REGION
Drive growth in core regions,
especially flagship markets
Emerging Markets growth
and evolution
BY PRODUCT
Accessories
Women
Men
Children's
Beauty
21. Image Problems
Burberry became mainstream culture, threatened to lose its luxury image
Check became ubiquitous
Kate Moss: not upmarket
Became popular with British football casual cult, associated with chavs
and hooligans
Pubs started to ban people dressed in Burberry
No respect to the brand image
Sold in retail environments inconsistent with its quality proposition
Brand loses its exclusivity
22.
23. The 90s: First Repositioning
1997 To over come retail problems, Burberry repositioned itself through
new design, merchandising and marketing strategy
Strong focus on the Burberry Check
Broader product line , focus on younger target group
Kate Moss as new testimonial for instant accessiblity
24. Second repositioning:2000 era
Recapturing the luxury market
Baseball Caps removed from sale
Reduced visibility of the Burberry Check
2001: 20%
2004: <5%
Kate Moss got replaced by Rachel Weisz
(Upper Class, sophisticated, elegant)
25. A new era: (Digital age)
New Creative Director: Christopher Bailey
Focus on sub brand/catwalk label Burberry Prorsum
2009 Return to LFW for the 25th anniversary of the
British Fashion Council: celebration of Britishness,
pushing London as fashion hotspot
New testimonial, Emma Watson is appealing to young ,
but upscale target group
27. COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE
• -Performance based advertising
• -Cost effective for international banner and text ad campaigns
• -Text and image ads supported
• -Placement is automated, more relevant to users
• -Ads are placed on a wide range of sites not just search engines
28. TARGET MARKET
-Burberry maintains a broad appeal across dual gender audience, 20s to 50s
-People with a medium to high standard of living
-Accessible “functional” luxury
-Cross-generational:
-Mature audience seeks classic appearance
-Youth audience seeks innovative/contemporary design
29. STRENGTHS & WEAKNESSES
Existing Strengths
-Strong/proven management team
-Licensing growth. High incremental
return on incremental capital
-Well-established luxury brand with
classic heritage products
-Powerful celebrity endorsements
-Iconic products, logo, check print
-Accessible “functional” luxury
-Progressive digital communication
(website, fashion shows, social media)
Existing Weaknesses
-Low vertical integration reduces
capture of margin and value from
manufacturing
-Apparel segment has increased
fashion risk but accounts for majority
of profits
-Internal brand awareness confusion
(Burberry London, Burberry Brit,
Burberry Prorsum, etc.)
30. Embracing Social Media:
Burberry has a sophisticated digital strategy
Youtube channel
Facebook fanpage
Twitter Account
Engaging younger customers with the brand
Giving them a unique insight/background
information
Using the opportunity of feedback
31. Before
• Dependent on licensing
and distribution
arrangements
• Limited set of products
• Brand image of being
staid and boring
• Just another clothing
brand
After
• Distribution strategy
was overhauled
• Product line was
revamped
• Seen as being young
yet classy
• One of the leading
luxury brands of the
world
33. Changing the way things are
done
New Goal:
• To transform Burberry from a tired outerwear manufacturer
to a luxury lifestyle brand that was inspirational, stylish and
innovative
Hiring the best talent
• Top management team made up of A-list industry talent
• People who had worked on shop floors and in fitting rooms
• People who knew
– What customers wanted
– What price points people wanted
– Where the gaps were
34. Repostioning the Brand
Surveyed the market and identified gaps
Goal was to attract younger customers while
retaining core customer base
Contemporary logo and packaging were
introduced
Didn’t want to be cutting edge nor just classic
Key differentiator from other brands was its
functionality
35. Changes on the ground
• Updating the Product Line
• Slashing the number of product stock keeping
units (SKU’s) from 100,000 to 24,000
• Eliminated outdated designs and had a
consistent look about products
• Almost a 1000 new styles each season across
women swear menswear and accessories but
stayed true to its heritage
• With non-licensed products Burberry exercised
control over EVERYTHING (design, sourcing,
manufacturing, distribution)
36. Changes on the ground (contd.)
• Curbed inconsistencies in price, design and
quality across markets
• Tighter control over distribution
• Opening up of flag ship stores
– Display full product range
– Showcase the vision
– Testing ground for new concepts and designs
• Create consistent brand image to avoid risk
of brand credibility
37. Expanding Brand Porfolio
Lower end
• Low price labels to appeal to younger, fashion
conscious customers
• E.g.:Thomas Burberry and Burberry Blue and Black
Upper end (Burberry Prorsum)
• Limited distribution, not meant to be a brand for
millions of people
• Ultra luxury and appeared on runways with the fashion
greats
• Opportunity to showcase new brand image and get
editorial press for its collections
• Way to tell people something new was happening at
Burberry
38. BURBERRY’S COMPETITION
In competition with Burberry there are a lot of companies like
Coach or Gucci.
But in the three years since Burberry’s floatation on the London
Stock Exchange in 2002, the Company has enjoyed exceptional
growth, with revenues growing over 40% and operating profits
increasing in excess of 80%. Looking to the future, Burberry is
committed to build upon this momentum in order to continue to
generate shareholder value over the long term.
39. The Next Five Years
• The Burberry brand has successfully been turned around
• Expansion into product categories such as perfumes,
children swear and footwear
• Popularity of brand among non-target customers needs to
be tapped
• The distinctive Burberry “check” appears in over 60-70%
of all sales, more restrained use is required
• Pervasiveness of the “check” needs to be done in a more
strategic way (not too much nor too little)
• Sustaining the brand positioning
• Broken brand has been fixed but biggest challenge now is
to continue to grow the brand without risking customer
burnout
40. China:
The integration of the company’s China operation was
finalized and enhanced merchandising, marketing and
store service.
Intensified marketing focus extended reach and relevance.
Burberry achieved a leading luxury position on Chinese
social media platforms, launched a simplified Chinese
version of burberry.com and was named the brand with the
second-highest ‘digital IQ’ in China by the influential L2
think tank.
41. Japan:
Sold in Japan and made locally
High quality apparel but lower positioning
and price points than the International Line.
Weaker accessories due to licenses held buy
small manufacturers.
•Blue and Black Labels.
42. USA:
In the United States, over 30 new women’s,
men’s, accessories and children’s shop-in-
shops were opened in key department stores.
43. India and Middle East
In India, Burberry is still new but they focuses
but they focuses on formation of a new
subsidiary with a local partner in
Saudi Arabia.
From that subsidiary partner ,they are also
have a presence in Middle East.