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INDIAN HISTORY & CULTURE
TITTLE :- HAUZ KHAS
COURSE NAME :- B.COM(H)
GROUP NAME :SUPERVISOR :

`L`

MANISH KARMWAR

SHYAM LAL COLLEGE (Eve.)
UNIVERSITY OF DELHI
SESSION: 2013-14
About Hauz Khas:-

Hauz Khas is the historical battleground where Timur defeated Mohammed
Shah Tughlaq in 1398. One can find the remnants of an ancient college and Feroz
Shah’s tomb here and on the east to a short distance the Moth ki Masjid –built in
the finest Lodi style. Once an archetypal North Indian Village in the heart of
Delhi’s urban sprawl, Hauz Khas is now a shopper’s paradise successfully
marketing the concept of ‘ethnicity’ in every possible way. There are boutiques
selling furniture, clothes, jewelry and art along with a smattering of restaurants that
serve a variety of ‘authentic’ cuisine. One wanders down a quaint narrow alley
experiencing all these ending up in a surprisingly well-kept sprawling monument.
Hauz Khas was a large reservoir built by Allauddin Khilji that was once the
water catchments for the city. This village is remarkable for both the ancient and
charming ruins in the nearby compound looking down on a still, green tank, as
well as for the modern and posh shopping complex, which has sprung up around
here. The madarsa, tombs and mosque around it built by Feroz Shah Tuglaq still
make for an exclusive and exciting experience.
Hauz Khas Complex:-

This complex borders the tank known originally as the Hauz-e-Alai,which was
constructed during the reign of Alauddin Khalji (ruled 1296-1316).It lay somewhat
to the west of Alauddin`s newly fortified city of siri.The water was collected in it
mainly during the rainy season and was then used throughout the year by the
people in the neighbourhood.In the years after Alauddin,lack of maintenance led to
sitting up of the channels that fed the tank, and it dried up. During the reign of
Feroz Shah Tughlaq (ruled 1351-88) the water supply system to the tank was
restored.The tank then came to be known as the Hauz-Khas or Royal Tank.
At the same time Feroz Shah also built the Madrasa-e-Feroz Shahi around the
south-western edge the tank. This was an institution of higher education and was
endowed by the emperor himself. Its reputation as a premier center of learning was
enhanced because it employed teachers who were scholars of note. It attracted
students from far and wide, and they were given generous stipends for the time
they were in the college.
The importance of the site was also evident from the fact that Firoz Shah chose
this place to build his own tomb at a focal point in the complex . The college
buildings were arranged an L-shape around the southern-estern corner of the Hauz
Khas, giving the rooms a good view over the expanse of water. The connection
between the buildings and the tank were streghtherned by the several sets of steps
leading down from the college to the tank. On the other side,the building were
edged by a beautiful garden, Fourteenth century visitors invariably described the
buildings and their setting in glowing terms.

Hauz Khas Village:-

The road south to the urban village of Hauz Khas is lined on both sides by ancient
stone monuments, and the entire village is dotted with domed structures -- the
tombs of minor Muslim royalty from the 14th to the 16th centuries. At the end of
the road is the tomb of Firoz Shah Tughluq, who ruled Delhi in the 14th century.
Hauz Khas means "Royal Tank," referring to the now-meager artificial lake visible
from Firoz Shah's pillared tomb. The tank was actually built a century earlier by
Allauddin Khilji as a water source for his nearby fort, then called Siri (the second
city of Delhi). Back in the village, wander through the narrow lanes to experience
a medley of old and new structures -- expensive shops and art galleries in a
medieval warren. In the 1980s Hauz Khas was designated an upscale tourist
destination, but (fortunately) the process of redevelopment was never completed,
so some of the village character persists. After exploring, stop for a meal at one of
the village's restaurants, particularly Park Balluchi (in the Deer Park), Naivedyam,
or the Village Bistro.

History :-

Alauddin Khilji(1296-1316) excavated a large tank here for the use of the
inhabitants of Siri. Hauz Khas is the second city of medieval Delhi. It was
originally known as Hauz-i-Alai after Khilji. Firuz Shah Tughlaq (1351-88) reexcavated the silted tank and raised several buildings on its southern and eastern
banks which are known as Hauz-Khas or royal tank. the enclosure wall is partly
modern.
A building of historical importance within this enclosure is the tomb of Firuz Shah
Tughlaq, which was repaired during the reign of Sikandar Lodhi in 1507 AD, as is
evidenced from an inscription on the entrance. The multi-storeyed wings consisting
of series of halls and chambers on the north and west of Firuz Shah's Tomb were
built by him in about 1354 AD. to serve as a madrasa or college for theological
training. Staircases lead down to the tank from the upper storey of the madrasa. At
the northern extremity of the enclosure is a small mosque. One of the old entrances
to the enclosure is from the west, now closed. The octagonal and square chhatris
standing here were built as tombs over the graves possibly of teachers attached to
the madrasa.
Taimur, who invaded Delhi in 1399, was highly impressed by the tank and
buildings around it, but wrongly ascribed its construction to Firuz Shah Tughlaq.
(Source: Archaeological Survey of India)

Hauz-I-Alai or the Hauz Khas pond:-
FACTS & FIGURES
Built In AD 1295
Built By Ala-ud-din Khilji
Location Delhi
LIFELINE OF SIRI FORT
The Hauz-I-Alai or the Hauz Khas pond is an important water work that was
excavated by Sultan Ala-ud-din Khilji. It was built by Ala-ud-din to overcome the
problem of water shortage faced by the people of his capital city of Siri. Although
the pond went into disuse after the end of the Khilji dynasty, it again gained
importance under Ferozshah Tughlaq. Ferozshah excavated the pond again and
built a number of buildings near it, beautifying the entire area around this pond.

UTILITARIAN AND INDO-ISLAMIC STYLE
The Hauz-I-Alai is a piece of utilitarian architecture, which was built to collect and
store rainwater for daily usage. The buildings around the pond, which were built by
Ferozshah Tughlaq, belong to the Indo-Islamic style of architecture.

HAUZ-I-ALAI:-

Sultan Ala-ud-din-Khilji (AD 1296-1316) belonged to the Khilji dynasty (AD
1290-1320), which ruled the Delhi Sultanate (AD 1191-1526). Ala-ud-din Khilji
wan not only a strong monarch but also a great patron of architecture. He ascended
the throne of the Delhi Sultanate in AD 1296 and started building the fort city of
Siri. Siri served as the capital of Ala-ud-din Khilji and was the first city in Delhi to
be built by the Muslim rulers of India. Ala-ud-din also began to put into shape his
grand plans of beautifying the existing Qutab Minar complex. He added the Alai
Darwaza, a magnificent gateway with inlaid marble decorations and latticed stone
screens that displayed the remarkable artistry of the Turkish artisans who worked
on it. He also planned to build the Alai Minar, which was conceived to be taller
than the Qutab Minar; however, the construction of this tower was abandoned after
the completion of the 24.5-m-high first story.
The reign of Ala-ud-din was marked by constant threats from the Mongols, who
descended on the northern part of India in waves. In 1303, the Mongols under
plundered Delhi and almost captured it. Meanwhile, Ala-ud-din Khilji was away
from Delhi, busy with one of his military campaigns. Returning to Delhi from his
Deccan campaign, Ala-ud-din Khilji decided to build a defensive fortress at Siri
with strong fortified ramparts and impregnable bastions. It was Delhi's third fort.
The construction of Siri Fort and the city within it began in AD 1304. The place he
chose was a plain ground three miles to the northeast of Qutab Minar where forces
attacking or defending Delhi used to camp. The fort of Siri was never attacked, but
it was laid to waste by later rulers of Delhi who carted off whatever building
material they could use for building their own forts. The only major surviving
building of Siri is at Hauz Khas (a location in south Delhi) where Ala-ud-din built
a vast 50-hectare reservoir called Hauz-I-Alai for the benefit of the people of Siri.
It was a fateful moment when the king chose this site to build a tank that was so
large that historian Sharfuddin Yazdi is supposed to have said that an arrow shot
from one end would not reach the other.
Close to Ala-ud-din's capital Siri Fort, the tank contained rainwater that supplied
the people with water all round the year. However, with the death of Ala-ud-din in
AD 1316, the Khilji dynasty came to an end a few years later and the city of Siri
was abandoned. The magnificent pond, enclosed by masonry walls, had dried up
and lay almost buried under wild growth and some cultivation.

The history of Hauz-I-Alai does not end here, as it was discovered by Ferozshah
Tughlaq (AD 1351-1388), one of the rulers of the Delhi Sultanate from the
Tughlaq dynasty (AD 1321-1414). Ferozshah ascended the throne of the Delhi
Sultanate in AD 1351. He was a pious, kindhearted ruler and a great builder. He
constructed a number of works of public utility like roads, schools, canals, etc.
Apart from extending the Tughlaq Empire, Ferozshah built in Delhi the fifth
fortified city called Firozabad or Ferozshah Kotla. This capital city of the Tughlaqs
was located in the northeastern part of present-day Delhi along the western bank of
River Yamuna. The decision to build the capital city near the Yamuna was
necessitated because of the scarcity of water faced in the earlier capital
Tughlaqabad (located on the rocky terrain in the southeastern part of present-day
Delhi).
The discovery of the abandoned pond made Ferozshah proud, as his kingdom was
already facing a severe water crisis. Ferozshah is justified in feeling proud, for
there was acute scarcity of water at that time, and it is on record that people used to
sell water that was collected in the pond. The more enterprising ones dug wells
within the pond area to draw water. Thus, assessing the needs of the people,
Ferozshah got it excavated, cleaned and filled it with water once again. Hauz Khas
at that time was known as Hauz-I-Alai. However, when Ferozshah built a
magnificent college at one end, it became Hauz Khas. The irregular pond is
enclosed by a boundary of stone and cement.

IMPORTANT MONUMENTS NEAR HAUZ-I-ALAI:The pond of Hauz-I-Alai is the only surviving structure from the fort city of Siri.
However, there are a couple of important monuments near this pond. The tomb of
Ferozshah Tughlaq and the college building constructed by Ferozshah Tughlaq are
two important monuments near the Hauz-I-Alai. It might have been a magnificent
college building, but because of its ruinous state, it is difficult to tell the
arrangement of the rooms.
Three-domed building:-

This unusual T-shaped building has a long colonnaded hall measuring 24.7 meters
by 6.7 meters,with an 8 metre projection from the centre to the west.It is not
known for sure what this buildings function was. While some say it was a tomb
with many graves inside, there are no traces of graves now in it. From its size and
shape it seems that it was a meeting place or assembly room, designed to hold a
bigger group than would normally gather for classes. After the building fell into
disuse following the decline of the Tughlaq dynasty,this building came to be used
as a residence by the villagers of the surrounding area.

HOW TO REACH
Delhi is well connected by air, rail, and road with important centers of India.
Travelers can reach Hauz Khas Pond in many ways. They can either take local
buses from various points within the city to reach this monument, which is located
in south Delhi, or, alternatively, they can hire auto-rickshaws or taxis for the
purpose. One can take buses from important bus stations like the interstate bus
terminal at Kashmiri Gate and Sarai Kale Khan to reach this monument.
Get to Hauz Khas Village by Metro: Green park(yellow line)
By Road: Take a left after Aurobindo Market and keep straight. Makeshift parking
is on the left at the start of the village walk.

Timeless Wonders – Love for Learning

Shop: Indian Popular Art

The young men who own this store insist that they have been here since before
time, and that their grandmother is the oldest landlady in the area.
They do not have a website, an email address or a phone number but if you go
over there and ask them anything about old posters -- from cinema to pop
phrases to architecture to music-- they have the answers.
Postcards start at Rs 300 and old Hindi movie posters start at Rs 1,000 each.
Art: Delhi Art Gallery

Delhi Art Gallery is one of New Delhi’s oldest, and owns its entire collection of
India’s pre-moderns, moderns and contemporary artists.
If you’re interested in the old masters -- Raza, Husain, Tagore, F.N. Souza and
Padamsee -- and aren't inclined to question the authenticity of the multidimensional and the outlandish, Delhi Art Gallery can be considered a safe
place to buy.
Ongoing exhibition: A retrospective of Chittaprosad till August 20.
Eat: Naivedyam

It’s dark in here, and the menu reads in part Malayalam, but the hot cup of
rasam served with a lentil papad on a palm leaf just as you sit down gives you
plenty of time to guess at the translations.
Start with the dahi vada to cool you down, try the erulli rawa dosai (onion rawa
dosa) to open your sinuses and end with a hot gulab jamun.
Naivedyam’s coffee is authentic south Indian and the paan afterwards will help
digestion, but should you come at dinner time and feel like some nostalgia, they
serve Bournvita. Meal for two Rs 400.
Village bakery: Elma's Bakery

The folks from The Living Room bring you tea and scones at this quaint, little
dollhouse of a teashop. Elma's aroma wafts down the alleys and pulls you
towards it.
Carry your silver spandex, so you can head to TLR after and bust out your most
scrumptious moves

Music with food: The Living Room (TLR)

The Living Room is hip because it's self-aware.
If you don’t have any accessories, (not even a fake mustache?), worry not, a girl
wearing a wreath on her head will come and adorn you with some.
They’re all functional -- garlands, whistles, pom-poms -- so use them to pump
up the city's more marginal live bands, DJs and video projectionists that mix
their beats and get you heated.
If you need more heat, try the Worcestershire Old Monk rum mixed into a
cocktail called a Bloody Indian. Drinks for two Rs 600.

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Hauz khas

  • 1. INDIAN HISTORY & CULTURE TITTLE :- HAUZ KHAS COURSE NAME :- B.COM(H) GROUP NAME :SUPERVISOR : `L` MANISH KARMWAR SHYAM LAL COLLEGE (Eve.) UNIVERSITY OF DELHI SESSION: 2013-14
  • 2. About Hauz Khas:- Hauz Khas is the historical battleground where Timur defeated Mohammed Shah Tughlaq in 1398. One can find the remnants of an ancient college and Feroz Shah’s tomb here and on the east to a short distance the Moth ki Masjid –built in the finest Lodi style. Once an archetypal North Indian Village in the heart of Delhi’s urban sprawl, Hauz Khas is now a shopper’s paradise successfully marketing the concept of ‘ethnicity’ in every possible way. There are boutiques selling furniture, clothes, jewelry and art along with a smattering of restaurants that serve a variety of ‘authentic’ cuisine. One wanders down a quaint narrow alley experiencing all these ending up in a surprisingly well-kept sprawling monument. Hauz Khas was a large reservoir built by Allauddin Khilji that was once the water catchments for the city. This village is remarkable for both the ancient and charming ruins in the nearby compound looking down on a still, green tank, as well as for the modern and posh shopping complex, which has sprung up around here. The madarsa, tombs and mosque around it built by Feroz Shah Tuglaq still make for an exclusive and exciting experience.
  • 3. Hauz Khas Complex:- This complex borders the tank known originally as the Hauz-e-Alai,which was constructed during the reign of Alauddin Khalji (ruled 1296-1316).It lay somewhat to the west of Alauddin`s newly fortified city of siri.The water was collected in it mainly during the rainy season and was then used throughout the year by the people in the neighbourhood.In the years after Alauddin,lack of maintenance led to sitting up of the channels that fed the tank, and it dried up. During the reign of Feroz Shah Tughlaq (ruled 1351-88) the water supply system to the tank was restored.The tank then came to be known as the Hauz-Khas or Royal Tank. At the same time Feroz Shah also built the Madrasa-e-Feroz Shahi around the south-western edge the tank. This was an institution of higher education and was endowed by the emperor himself. Its reputation as a premier center of learning was enhanced because it employed teachers who were scholars of note. It attracted students from far and wide, and they were given generous stipends for the time they were in the college.
  • 4. The importance of the site was also evident from the fact that Firoz Shah chose this place to build his own tomb at a focal point in the complex . The college buildings were arranged an L-shape around the southern-estern corner of the Hauz Khas, giving the rooms a good view over the expanse of water. The connection between the buildings and the tank were streghtherned by the several sets of steps leading down from the college to the tank. On the other side,the building were edged by a beautiful garden, Fourteenth century visitors invariably described the buildings and their setting in glowing terms. Hauz Khas Village:- The road south to the urban village of Hauz Khas is lined on both sides by ancient stone monuments, and the entire village is dotted with domed structures -- the tombs of minor Muslim royalty from the 14th to the 16th centuries. At the end of the road is the tomb of Firoz Shah Tughluq, who ruled Delhi in the 14th century. Hauz Khas means "Royal Tank," referring to the now-meager artificial lake visible from Firoz Shah's pillared tomb. The tank was actually built a century earlier by Allauddin Khilji as a water source for his nearby fort, then called Siri (the second city of Delhi). Back in the village, wander through the narrow lanes to experience a medley of old and new structures -- expensive shops and art galleries in a
  • 5. medieval warren. In the 1980s Hauz Khas was designated an upscale tourist destination, but (fortunately) the process of redevelopment was never completed, so some of the village character persists. After exploring, stop for a meal at one of the village's restaurants, particularly Park Balluchi (in the Deer Park), Naivedyam, or the Village Bistro. History :- Alauddin Khilji(1296-1316) excavated a large tank here for the use of the inhabitants of Siri. Hauz Khas is the second city of medieval Delhi. It was originally known as Hauz-i-Alai after Khilji. Firuz Shah Tughlaq (1351-88) reexcavated the silted tank and raised several buildings on its southern and eastern banks which are known as Hauz-Khas or royal tank. the enclosure wall is partly modern.
  • 6. A building of historical importance within this enclosure is the tomb of Firuz Shah Tughlaq, which was repaired during the reign of Sikandar Lodhi in 1507 AD, as is evidenced from an inscription on the entrance. The multi-storeyed wings consisting of series of halls and chambers on the north and west of Firuz Shah's Tomb were built by him in about 1354 AD. to serve as a madrasa or college for theological training. Staircases lead down to the tank from the upper storey of the madrasa. At the northern extremity of the enclosure is a small mosque. One of the old entrances to the enclosure is from the west, now closed. The octagonal and square chhatris standing here were built as tombs over the graves possibly of teachers attached to the madrasa. Taimur, who invaded Delhi in 1399, was highly impressed by the tank and buildings around it, but wrongly ascribed its construction to Firuz Shah Tughlaq. (Source: Archaeological Survey of India) Hauz-I-Alai or the Hauz Khas pond:-
  • 7. FACTS & FIGURES Built In AD 1295 Built By Ala-ud-din Khilji Location Delhi LIFELINE OF SIRI FORT The Hauz-I-Alai or the Hauz Khas pond is an important water work that was excavated by Sultan Ala-ud-din Khilji. It was built by Ala-ud-din to overcome the problem of water shortage faced by the people of his capital city of Siri. Although the pond went into disuse after the end of the Khilji dynasty, it again gained importance under Ferozshah Tughlaq. Ferozshah excavated the pond again and built a number of buildings near it, beautifying the entire area around this pond. UTILITARIAN AND INDO-ISLAMIC STYLE The Hauz-I-Alai is a piece of utilitarian architecture, which was built to collect and
  • 8. store rainwater for daily usage. The buildings around the pond, which were built by Ferozshah Tughlaq, belong to the Indo-Islamic style of architecture. HAUZ-I-ALAI:- Sultan Ala-ud-din-Khilji (AD 1296-1316) belonged to the Khilji dynasty (AD 1290-1320), which ruled the Delhi Sultanate (AD 1191-1526). Ala-ud-din Khilji wan not only a strong monarch but also a great patron of architecture. He ascended the throne of the Delhi Sultanate in AD 1296 and started building the fort city of Siri. Siri served as the capital of Ala-ud-din Khilji and was the first city in Delhi to be built by the Muslim rulers of India. Ala-ud-din also began to put into shape his grand plans of beautifying the existing Qutab Minar complex. He added the Alai Darwaza, a magnificent gateway with inlaid marble decorations and latticed stone screens that displayed the remarkable artistry of the Turkish artisans who worked on it. He also planned to build the Alai Minar, which was conceived to be taller than the Qutab Minar; however, the construction of this tower was abandoned after the completion of the 24.5-m-high first story.
  • 9. The reign of Ala-ud-din was marked by constant threats from the Mongols, who descended on the northern part of India in waves. In 1303, the Mongols under plundered Delhi and almost captured it. Meanwhile, Ala-ud-din Khilji was away from Delhi, busy with one of his military campaigns. Returning to Delhi from his Deccan campaign, Ala-ud-din Khilji decided to build a defensive fortress at Siri with strong fortified ramparts and impregnable bastions. It was Delhi's third fort. The construction of Siri Fort and the city within it began in AD 1304. The place he chose was a plain ground three miles to the northeast of Qutab Minar where forces attacking or defending Delhi used to camp. The fort of Siri was never attacked, but it was laid to waste by later rulers of Delhi who carted off whatever building material they could use for building their own forts. The only major surviving building of Siri is at Hauz Khas (a location in south Delhi) where Ala-ud-din built a vast 50-hectare reservoir called Hauz-I-Alai for the benefit of the people of Siri. It was a fateful moment when the king chose this site to build a tank that was so large that historian Sharfuddin Yazdi is supposed to have said that an arrow shot from one end would not reach the other. Close to Ala-ud-din's capital Siri Fort, the tank contained rainwater that supplied the people with water all round the year. However, with the death of Ala-ud-din in AD 1316, the Khilji dynasty came to an end a few years later and the city of Siri was abandoned. The magnificent pond, enclosed by masonry walls, had dried up and lay almost buried under wild growth and some cultivation. The history of Hauz-I-Alai does not end here, as it was discovered by Ferozshah Tughlaq (AD 1351-1388), one of the rulers of the Delhi Sultanate from the Tughlaq dynasty (AD 1321-1414). Ferozshah ascended the throne of the Delhi Sultanate in AD 1351. He was a pious, kindhearted ruler and a great builder. He
  • 10. constructed a number of works of public utility like roads, schools, canals, etc. Apart from extending the Tughlaq Empire, Ferozshah built in Delhi the fifth fortified city called Firozabad or Ferozshah Kotla. This capital city of the Tughlaqs was located in the northeastern part of present-day Delhi along the western bank of River Yamuna. The decision to build the capital city near the Yamuna was necessitated because of the scarcity of water faced in the earlier capital Tughlaqabad (located on the rocky terrain in the southeastern part of present-day Delhi). The discovery of the abandoned pond made Ferozshah proud, as his kingdom was already facing a severe water crisis. Ferozshah is justified in feeling proud, for there was acute scarcity of water at that time, and it is on record that people used to sell water that was collected in the pond. The more enterprising ones dug wells within the pond area to draw water. Thus, assessing the needs of the people, Ferozshah got it excavated, cleaned and filled it with water once again. Hauz Khas at that time was known as Hauz-I-Alai. However, when Ferozshah built a magnificent college at one end, it became Hauz Khas. The irregular pond is enclosed by a boundary of stone and cement. IMPORTANT MONUMENTS NEAR HAUZ-I-ALAI:The pond of Hauz-I-Alai is the only surviving structure from the fort city of Siri. However, there are a couple of important monuments near this pond. The tomb of Ferozshah Tughlaq and the college building constructed by Ferozshah Tughlaq are two important monuments near the Hauz-I-Alai. It might have been a magnificent college building, but because of its ruinous state, it is difficult to tell the arrangement of the rooms.
  • 11. Three-domed building:- This unusual T-shaped building has a long colonnaded hall measuring 24.7 meters by 6.7 meters,with an 8 metre projection from the centre to the west.It is not known for sure what this buildings function was. While some say it was a tomb with many graves inside, there are no traces of graves now in it. From its size and shape it seems that it was a meeting place or assembly room, designed to hold a bigger group than would normally gather for classes. After the building fell into disuse following the decline of the Tughlaq dynasty,this building came to be used as a residence by the villagers of the surrounding area. HOW TO REACH Delhi is well connected by air, rail, and road with important centers of India. Travelers can reach Hauz Khas Pond in many ways. They can either take local buses from various points within the city to reach this monument, which is located in south Delhi, or, alternatively, they can hire auto-rickshaws or taxis for the purpose. One can take buses from important bus stations like the interstate bus terminal at Kashmiri Gate and Sarai Kale Khan to reach this monument.
  • 12. Get to Hauz Khas Village by Metro: Green park(yellow line) By Road: Take a left after Aurobindo Market and keep straight. Makeshift parking is on the left at the start of the village walk. Timeless Wonders – Love for Learning Shop: Indian Popular Art The young men who own this store insist that they have been here since before time, and that their grandmother is the oldest landlady in the area. They do not have a website, an email address or a phone number but if you go over there and ask them anything about old posters -- from cinema to pop phrases to architecture to music-- they have the answers. Postcards start at Rs 300 and old Hindi movie posters start at Rs 1,000 each.
  • 13. Art: Delhi Art Gallery Delhi Art Gallery is one of New Delhi’s oldest, and owns its entire collection of India’s pre-moderns, moderns and contemporary artists. If you’re interested in the old masters -- Raza, Husain, Tagore, F.N. Souza and Padamsee -- and aren't inclined to question the authenticity of the multidimensional and the outlandish, Delhi Art Gallery can be considered a safe place to buy. Ongoing exhibition: A retrospective of Chittaprosad till August 20.
  • 14. Eat: Naivedyam It’s dark in here, and the menu reads in part Malayalam, but the hot cup of rasam served with a lentil papad on a palm leaf just as you sit down gives you plenty of time to guess at the translations. Start with the dahi vada to cool you down, try the erulli rawa dosai (onion rawa dosa) to open your sinuses and end with a hot gulab jamun. Naivedyam’s coffee is authentic south Indian and the paan afterwards will help digestion, but should you come at dinner time and feel like some nostalgia, they serve Bournvita. Meal for two Rs 400.
  • 15. Village bakery: Elma's Bakery The folks from The Living Room bring you tea and scones at this quaint, little dollhouse of a teashop. Elma's aroma wafts down the alleys and pulls you towards it. Carry your silver spandex, so you can head to TLR after and bust out your most scrumptious moves Music with food: The Living Room (TLR) The Living Room is hip because it's self-aware.
  • 16. If you don’t have any accessories, (not even a fake mustache?), worry not, a girl wearing a wreath on her head will come and adorn you with some. They’re all functional -- garlands, whistles, pom-poms -- so use them to pump up the city's more marginal live bands, DJs and video projectionists that mix their beats and get you heated. If you need more heat, try the Worcestershire Old Monk rum mixed into a cocktail called a Bloody Indian. Drinks for two Rs 600.