The document provides detailed instructions for wiring a Haltech F10X ECU in Mazda 3 models with 2.3 and 2.0 engines. It includes information on the components included in the kit, the correct installation of sensors, tach drivers, and wiring connections for various models, especially highlighting differences for 2006 and later models. Additionally, it emphasizes specific wiring steps and connections to ensure proper functionality of the engine management system.

1. Haltech F10X wiring in Mazda 3 2.3 and 2.0
Engines
The Kit for Mazda 3 comes with the following:
Haltech ECU
Main harness with a 6 or 8 pin connector and flying wires
Secondary Harness with a 6 or 8 pin connector, coolant, air, Map, Boost controller and
ground connectors.
Tach Driver (Ford Motorsports for the 2005 or older or MSD for 2006 and newer)
Boost controller kit (Optional)
Air temperature sensor (grey)
Coolant Temperature sensor (black)
2 Bar MAP sensor
4 Bosch injectors
4 injector connectors

2. To help you identify the parts, you can see in the picture above from left to right, the
Map sensor, the air temperature sensor that must be placed in the charge pipe and the
coolant sensor that goes in the upper heater hose.
In the picture below you can see the Tach driver. This unit is needed to convert the
signal from the crank position sensor into a tach signal needed in the Haltech F10X to
work properly.
Start by checking that everything is included in the kit and disconnect the battery. Then
make the cross cuts in the grommet to bring the wiring thru the firewall. Insert a wire or
cable from the outside into the inside of the cockpit. Use the wire to bring the connector
and wires thru the engine bay.

3. In the flying wires, after they are thru the fire wall, use the supplied wire cover in these
wires. This is used to avoid any wire to be damaged from vibration against sharp
objects.
Then follow the stock wiring along the firewall and tie wrap the Haltech wires to it
coming to the stock ECU beside the battery. The wires are pre cut to the correct length.
Install the coolant sensor case or casting in the correct coolant hose according to the
instructions. Make sure that the air temperature sensor is bolted to the charge pipe, and
finally attach the map sensor to the brake booster vacuum line.
Correct location for the Coolant sensor. Make sure that it is placed in the upper heater
hose.
This is the correct location for the air temperature sensor.

4. Using the MAP sensor as template, drill two 6 mm holes in the top plastic beam as
shown in picture. After this is done, just bolt the sensor underneath the beam. Run a
vacuum hose with the tee supplied between the Blow off valve and into the intake
manifold.
Now connect the 6 or 8 pin connectors together, and plug the connectors to each of the
sensors. The black connector is the coolant sensor, the grey is the air temp and the three
wire is the MAP sensor connector. The black wire is the ground and should be bolted to
a good ground source in the engine block or head. There is another connector with a
blue or black two pin connector that is labelled as boost controller solenoid. It is not
used unless you have the boost control option. If so, just plug into the solenoid.

5. PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING FOR THE 2006 MODELS:
Identify the Harness:
Black connectors into 3 pin connector are the injector wires
Orange connector is the MAP sensor
Black with 2 pin is the coolant
Gray with 2 pin is the Air temp
Loop connector is the ground
The 2006 and later models use a different trigger wheel and it needs a different tach
driver adapter. The tach driver is what gives the haltech the RPM signal to operate
correctly.
The Tach driver used for these models is the MSD 8913 and should be installed as
follows:
Find the 12 v power source for the ignition coils. It is the common wire on all coils. Cut
this wire before it splits into all coils. Then you will have two ends. Connect the red
wire form MSD 8913 into the wire coming from power supply, the red/green into the
wire going into the coils, the black one to a good engine ground and the grey wire into
the Haltech Green wire.
So please follow the next instructions:
The harness for the 2006 comes with an 8 pin connector and a three pin connector on
the other side for the injector harness. Just disconnect the stock injectors and leave them
aside. Plug the new injectors to the harness provided. The ONLY wire that goes to the
main harness of the car is the grey/red form Haltech into the A2 wire as illustrated in the
diagram below. Do not use the other wires for any other connections.

6. Your flying wires are:
Purple/white: Boost controller (OPTIONAL)
White wire: TPS (Optional)
Gray/shielded: O2 sensor for closed loop (OPTIONAL)
Gray/red for A2 connector (Switched 12V)
Gray/red for boost controller (OPTIONAL)
THESE ARE THE 2005 AND OLDER MODEL INSTRAUCCIONS:
It is time now to do the flying wires. These are the injector wires, the TPS signal, the
RPM signal, the check engine light memory wire, the 12 v source to the tach driver.
Injector wires are:
Blue/red
Pink
Light Blue
Green/ Red
TPS is the white wire
RPM signal is the light green wire
12v Source to Tach driver and CEL memory are the two grey/red wires.
To do the wiring correctly, please follow these instructions carefully.
Look for the two connectors to the Main ECU. Look at the wiring diagram and then find
the correct wires.
We have designed this diagram to make it easier to find and locate each of the wires
needed for the new connection.
Beside the battery, there are two main connectors into the Stock ECU. We have given
letters and numbers to each connector, so you can find the right wires easier.
We have called the front connector, the one towards the front and rear connector to the
one towards the back of the vehicle.
Most wiring is done in the front connector and only one wire is needed from the rear
connector.

7. The wires shown with the pink lines are the injector wires. These are to be cut and leave
disconnected. The wires from haltech must go to the injectors.
The wires shown with the blue are the Tach Driver trigger wires. These are to be tapped
into.
The wire shown with the green line is the TPS signal wire. This wire is to be tapped
into.
The wire shown with an orange line is the ECU memory wire. This wire is to be cut and
run the grey/red wire from Haltech into the ECU. Leave the other end disconnected and
taped.
Wire B2 (black/white) is an injector wire
Wire C2 (black /yellow) is another injector wire
Wire D2 (black/blue) is another injector wire
Wire D3 (black/red) is the 4th injector wire

8. These four wires must be CUT from the main harness. Using the pink butt connectors
supplied, join the Haltech injector wires into the wires going to the engine. The ends
going into ECU must be left disconnected.
Now look for wire A12 (black/white). This is the TPS signal. Using the blue taps, tap
the white wire from Haltech wires into this. Make sure you tap into it.
If your car has a cable operated throttle body (non US version) then
tap into A13 as A12 will have no wire in your car.
The Light green wire from the haltech wires must be joint to the green wire of the tach
driver.
One of the grey/red wires from haltech must be joint into the red wire of the Tach
driver.
The black wire from the tach driver must be hooked to a good ground source.
Find wire A2 (red) in the rear main connector. This is the wire that keeps the memory
for the O2 sensors. Cut this wire from main rear ECU connector. Join the other grey/red

9. wire to the wire going into ECU. Isolate very well the other end as it has constant 12V
and leave it disconnected .
Now find the trigger sensor wires. Look for wire A9 (white/red) and B9 (brown), tap the
black wire from Tach driver into A9 (white /red) and the white one into B9 (brown).
Lastly, look for wire A2 in the rear connector. This wire must be cut. Run one of the
grey/red wires from the HALTECH wires into the end leading to ECU. The other end
must be left disconnected and taped.
Remove the tape from behind the Tach driver and stick it inside the battery box as
shown in picture.
Use the supplied injector connectors to replace the stock ones or just tap into each wire
and you can have connectors working, the stock ones and the new ones. Just leave the 4
not used disconnected and use the new ones

10. With this, we are done for the wiring inside the engine bay.
Lastly, remove the plastic cover underneath the steering column to find the ignition
switch wires. Look for the thick green/yellow wire and tap the Haltech black wire with
fuses into it. This wire brings 12v to the Haltech, tach driver, boost controller and main
ECU.

11. With all these done correctly, the electrical wiring is finished.