3. Page 2 of 1
Explore
the
role
of
the
Fashion
Buyer
and
Buying
process.
Fig.
1.
Men's
Department
from
the
ZARA
store
in
Almere,
The
Netherlands
(2008)
Introduction
This
report
will
consider
the
role
of
the
buyer
and
buying
cycle.
It
will
investigate
what
the
processes
are
through
the
cycle,
review,
competitive
shopping
trend
forecasting
and
analysis
of
any
gaps
in
the
market,
therefore
could
lead
to
a
capsule
range
being
designed.
The
report
consists
of
some
current
capsule
ranges
that
are
on
the
high
street.
It
will
analyse
the
8
garment
capsule
range
that
has
been
designed
for
this
report,
which
consists
of
key
influences
shown
from
a
mood
board.
An
Excel
spreadsheet
will
Display
the
garments,
their
style,
colour,
selling
price
and
achieved
gross
margin
per
item.
This
will
then
show
how
to
help
the
marketing
department
by
giving
guide
lines
about
the
range,
such
as
a
unique
selling
point
(USP’s)
and
how
the
buyer
saw
the
product
being
merchandised.
Finally
the
report
will
summarise
the
key
aspects
of
the
fashion
buyer
role
and
the
buying
process.
4. Page 3 of 1
When
and
why
a
retailer
may
introduce
a
capsule
range
A
buyer
would
introduce
a
capsule
range
if
they
were
introducing
a
new
range
for
the
first
time,
and
they
had
designed
only
selected
pieces
for
the
collection,
e.g.
an
active
wear
collection,
as
they
do
not
normally
stock
this
as
part
of
their
main
range,
he/she
could
introduce
a
capsule
collection
to
test
the
market.
A
capsule
collection
could
be
a
designer
linking
with
a
brand
such
as
Alexander
Wang
did
for
H&M.
He
introduced
a
capsule
collection
of
his
signature
ranges
with
different
fabric
qualities,
selling
at
cheaper
price
points
that
would
introduce
a
new
customer
to
his
collection.
A
capsule
range
could
be
by
adding
footwear
to
a
clothing
collection,
to
expand
the
range
and
brand
awareness
thus
taking
additional
sales.
5. Page 4 of 1
Description
of
current
ranges
on
the
High
street
Rita
Ora
has
teamed
up
with
Adidas,
seen
very
recently
in
JD
sports
and
Topshop
windows.
This
collection
is
the
first
known
female
artist
to
collaborate
with
Adidas.
She
has
designed
5
capsule
ranges
which
are
titled
Black,
Pastel,
Colourblock
Packs,
Spray,
and
Roses.
The
black
line
is
based
on
the
styles
that
she
prefers
to
wear
when
in
London,
as
shown
in
figure
2.
Another
part
is
based
on
her
tattoos.
The
price
architecture
of
the
garments
within
her
capsule
range
starts
from
a
beanie
at
£19.15
to
a
leather
varsity
jacket
costing
£319.19.
Fig.
2.
Merchandise
at
the
Adidas
originals
by
Rita
Ora
launch
(
2014)
David
Beckham
has
also
joined
up
with
British
label
Belstaff.
His
capsule
range
combines
his
own
personal
style
with
luxury
moto
classics.
It
follows
a
band
of
brothers
which
is
led
by
David
Beckham.
However
Instead
of
a
£319
jacket
like
Rita
Ora.
The
Kendal
jacket
will
set
you
back
at
£1,125
as
shown
in
figure
3.
Even
though
it
has
been
influenced
By
David
himself,
it
does
not
consist
of
the
uniqueness
that
the
Rita
Ora
Leather
varsity
Jacket
has.
However
the
quality
of
the
leather
is
a
softer
skin.
Figure.
3.
Kendal
Jacket
(2014)
6. Page 5 of 1
Main
influences
that
created
the
capsule
range
The
mood
board
in
appendix
1
shows
the
different
influences
which
helped
construct
the
8
garment
capsule
range.
Examples
used
were
the
2012
Olympics,
Alexander
Wang
H&M
and
how
the
emphasis
of
healthy
lifestyle
is
important.
The
main
influence
was
the
technical
sportswear
material
which
has
been
developed
over
the
years
to
become
comfortable
but
endurable,
including
a
trend
between
sportswear
and
fashion
(Stewart
2008)
Another
influence
for
this
new
capsule
range
is
Zara.
Zara
has
refurbished
three
large
stores
within
London
and
Manchester
as
well
as
10
smaller
branches
(Knowles
&
Spybey
2014,
p.
21).
This
therefore
means
when
displaying
a
new
capsule
range
in
the
store
it
will
entice
the
customer
even
more
to
shop.
Another
reason
for
my
capsule
range
is
that
sportswear
products
can
have
low
costs.
This
means
that
profit
margin
could
be
higher
due
to
this.
This
can
help
contribute
towards
the
companies
high
cost
in
a
positive
way.
This
year
Zara’s
costs
outstripped
sales
growth.
Its
pre-‐tax
profits
fell
from
34.5%
to
£33.9m
(Knowles
&
Spybey
2014,
p.21).
By
developing
a
new
capsule
range
which
does
not
compete
with
existing
ranges
will
improve
Zara’s
brand
awareness.
Women’s
Sports
Luxe
has
been
dominating
trends
over
the
last
few
years.
WGSN
have
published
a
round-‐up
of
S/S
men’s
active,
this
has
shown
to
be
one
of
the
major
trends
for
2015.
(Varga
2014
overall).
Zara
as
a
market
leader
should
take
advantage
of
this
and
designing
a
capsule
range
that
capitalises
on
this
key
trend,
which
should
live
on
post
in
the
initial
launch.
The
pen
portrait
(appendix
4)
is
a
key
influence
when
choosing
the
garments.
It
gives
an
insight
into
the
customer’s
lifestyle
and
interests.
It
can
also
give
an
understanding
of
their
activities
and
what
specific
garments
will
suit
customers’
profile.
Therefore
helping
the
brand
make
decisions
like
when
the
customer
would
wear
the
garment.
The
main
influence
for
this
capsule
range
is
that
Zara
have
missed
a
key
market.
They
have
not
entered
the
technical
sportswear
market.
It
can
be
believed
that
they
are
a
market
leader
within
fashion
and
could
make
a
big
statement
within
the
sports
fashion
industry.
Zara
have
a
reputation
for
producing
high
quality,
which
is
important
for
a
technical
sports
capsule
range.
Zara
are
known
for
being
able
to
produce
a
product
within
2
weeks
(Petro
2012,
p.2).
This
should
give
an
upper
hand
against
competitors
such
as
Nike,
Adidas
and
Puma.
However
we
must
take
into
consideration
that
some
of
the
materials
will
have
to
be
imported
as
these
are
new
products
and
are
unlikely
to
stock
them
in
a
normal
supply
chain.
8. Page 7 of 1
The
capsule
range
includes
3
T-‐shirts,
2
Shorts,
1
Hoodie,
1
jogging
bottoms
and
a
pair
of
trainers.
A
questionnaire
was
used
(appendix
2)
asking
30
people
about
8
garments
selected
and
how
many
would
they
buy
within
the
space
of
6
months.
An
average
was
taken
which
showed,
which
garments
were
the
most
popular.
A
hat
was
one
of
the
8
garments
designed,
however
the
questionnaire
showed
that
it
was
not
popular
enough
and
maybe
unsold,
increasing
costs
and
not
revenue
which
reduces
profit
for
Zara.
The
best
option
was
to
add
another
t-‐shirt
to
the
capsule
range
as
it
showed
to
be
the
most
popular
garment,
as
shown
in
appendix
1.
The
garments
colours
were
selected
from
the
WGSN
website.
This
showed
the
colours
that
will
be
key
S/S15.
Based
on
this
the
colour
choices
were
made,
and
what
colours
work
for
Zara’s
customer.
They
were
not
selected
at
random.
A
full
tracksuit
in
grey
scale
was
used
as
this
colour
is
mainly
used
for
this
type
of
product,
and
is
stocked
in
most
brands
collections.
However
for
the
t-‐shirt
and
shorts
the
colours
selected
are
much
stronger
and
follow
the
colour
way
for
S/S
2015
(Bibby
2014,
overall).
Ultramarine,
Persimmon
and
scarlet
were
all
used
as
they
worked
well
with
the
design
of
the
garments.
Trying
to
find
the
sizing
ratio
for
Zara
is
extremely
difficult,
even
when
asking
in
their
stores
they
were
not
sure.
However
a
buyer
for
JD
sports
explained
that
their
ratio
for
sports-‐wear
sizing
has
a
ratio
of
1:2:2:1,
starting
from
small
all
the
way
to
extra-‐large.
Due
to
the
fact
they
are
one
of
the
largest
sportswear
brand
in
the
UK
it
made
sense
to
use
their
formula,
therefore
my
sizing
ratio
is
the
same.
(Milligan,
2014).
For
men
Zara
do
not
have
any
sizes
in
XL.
The
sizing
ratio
for
JD
is
1:2:2:2:1.
JD
is
market
leader
in
a
strong
section
of
sports
trainers
it
seemed
realistic
to
use
their
sizing
ratio
again
.Yet
Zara
do
not
stock
shoes
large
than
size
11
and
therefore
it
would
be
unrealistic
to
have
sizes
which
do
not
fit
within
the
Zara
core
sizing.
9. Page 8 of 1
Price
point
analysis
Before
selecting
the
price
points
of
the
garments
a
comparison
was
made
of
the
3
main
competitors
pricing
for
each
garment
designed.
An
average
price
was
able
to
be
produced
as
seen
in
appendix
2.
Zara
price
structure
must
be
used.
Zara
use
£
2.99,
£5.99
or
£9.99.
Therefore
the
average
prices
had
to
be
either
rounded
up
or
down
to
fit
the
Zara
price
range.
The
profit
margin
for
this
capsule
range
ranges
between
58%
-‐
70%.The
trainers
profit
margin
is
the
lowest,
due
to
the
technical
construction
and
materials
for
an
initial
small
order,
which
will
have
a
higher
cost
price,
where
the
t-‐shirt
which
only
contains
2
types
of
fabric
will
have
a
lower
,
and
fabrics
are
within
the
Zara
supply
base.
10. Page 9 of 1
Guide
lines
to
the
marketing
department
about
the
capsule
range
and
how
it
will
be
merchandised
in
the
store.
Zara
launches
exclusively
an
8
piece
technical
capsule
collection,
which
is
in
stores
from
January
2015.
The
collection
includes
a
hooded
sweatshirt,
jogging
pants,
shorts,
t-‐shirt
and
an
on
trend
trainers,
that
compliments
the
whole
package.
The
pieces
are
simple
in
design
but
obsessed
with
the
fit
for
an
active
lifestyle,
to
capitalize
on
the
sports
trend.
This
range
needs
a
point
of
sale
that
highlights
the
collection
in
store,
and
a
window
banner
that
says
the
new
collection
has
arrived.
For
Visual
merchandise
-‐
The
collection
lands
at
the
end
of
January.
This
needs
to
sit
together
and
have
a
strong
focal
point.
The
collection
will
sit
on
a
rail,
with
a
shelf
on
top
that
has
shoe
displayed
as
a
key
part
of
the
look.
A
mannequin
must
be
dressed
adjacent
to
this
rail
showing
the
whole
capsule
range.
The
stores
must
receive
point
of
sale
highlighting
the
collection,
and
a
decal
for
the
window
to
call
this
out
too.
The
collection
needs
no
fuss,
the
product
and
its
technicality
will
stand
out.
Stores
need
to
familiarise
themselves
with
the
technical
aspect.
11. Page 10 of 1
Conclusion
This
report
explored
the
role
of
a
fashion
buyer
and
the
buying
process.
It
has
achieved
this
by
explaining
when
and
why
a
buyer
might
introduce
a
capsule
range.
This
could
be
to
improve
the
brand
awareness
and
capitalize
a
key
trend.
This
report
has
demonstrated
what
a
capsule
range
could
look
like
and
shown
the
depth
of
detail
that
is
needed
in
producing
this,
such
as
the
importance
of
research;
customer’s
needs
and
working
out
the
key
profit
drivers.
There
can
be
many
influences
when
designed
a
capsule
range
such
as
using
a
mood
board
(appendix
1).
However
with
a
capsule
range
there
could
be
positive
and
negative
feedback
as
shown
in
the
SWOT
analysis
in
appendix
5.
Also
explained
how
it
is
key
to
make
sure
the
marketing
and
visual
merchandisers
understand
the
features
and
benefits
of
the
range,
and
how
to
display
the
garments
within
the
store
to
show
the
collections
at
its
best.
To
conclude
there
are
many
processes
to
developing
a
capsule
range
and
it
can
take
a
long
period
of
time
to
get
it
right.
12. Page 11 of 1
Appendices
Bibliography
Newspapers
Online
Sidell,
MWS,
2014.
She
will
never
let
Adidas
down!
Rita
Ora
teams
up
with
the
athletic
wear
brand
on
collection
inspired
by
her
own
personal
style
-‐
and
tattoos
Read
more:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-‐2634300/She-‐never-‐let-‐Adidas-‐Rita-‐Ora-‐teams-‐
athleticwear-‐brand-‐collection-‐inspired-‐personal-‐style-‐tattoos.html#ixzz3LLobSEg0
Follow
us:
@MailOnline
on
Twitter
|
DailyMail
on
Facebook.
Daily
Mail,
20
May.
Pictures
Online
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1.
John
Sotomayor,
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Men's
Department
from
the
ZARA
store
in
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The
Netherlands
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Available
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[Accessed
08
December
14].
Figure
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M,
(2014),
Merchandise
at
the
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originals
by
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[ONLINE].
Available
at:http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-‐photo/merchandise-‐at-‐the-‐adidas-‐originals-‐
by-‐rita-‐ora-‐launch-‐on-‐news-‐photo/454642154
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training-gym-shorts_ct41pd2849.htm?gclid=CL_Ehr2WpcICFYWWtAod_W4AEA
T-‐shirt
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uk&mkwid=o2rgnf0C&pcrid=57026566453&gclid=CISQ8pOjpcICFQHMtAodYFoAEg
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sweatshirt
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royal/1411428830.prd?aff=google&gclid=CO_Z_ribpcICFceWtAodKCMAIw&affsrc=acquisition&cm_
mmc=google-‐_-‐GS_mens-‐_-‐Men+-‐+Hoodies+%26+Sweatshirts+-‐+Google+Shopping-‐_-‐
qgKIWsxQ_59100709038
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http://www.footlocker.eu/en-‐gb/Clothing/Nike-‐Tech-‐Fleece-‐
Pant.aspx/7354526770
Trainers
-‐
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/251662270453?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=
true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-‐
L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108
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A.
(2014).
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3-‐60.
17. Page 16 of 1
Appendix
(4)
Pen
portrait
Harry
Hamilton
is
20.
He
is
currently
studying
at
university
for
a
degree
in
Sports.
He
was
brought
up
in
London
and
there
spent
a
lot
of
type
shopping
in
oxford
street
He
is
currently
single.
He
has
a
strong
personality
and
therefore
would
not
be
scared
of
standing
out
from
the
rest
with
his
style
of
clothing.
Therefore
his
friends
would
normally
ask
him
for
advice.
He
will
have
a
strong
understanding
of
what
type
of
trend
is
popular.
He
come
a
well
brought
up
background
at
which
he
went
to
a
boarding
school
on
a
sports
scholarship.
He
has
a
very
popular
lifestyle,
this
meaning
that
he
has
something
planned
after
university
such
as
going
to
the
pub
with
friends,
going
on
dates,
or
even
going
on
a
night
out.
He
will
have
a
strong
amount
of
disposable
income
due
to
his
parents
supporting
him
as
well
as
having
a
part
time
job
at
a
night
club
promoting
and
therefore
is
willing
to
pay
that
extra
bit
to
have
the
best
quality
product.
He
goes
the
gym
a
lot
and
therefore
sport
wear
is
a
key
part
to
his
fashion.
Again
due
to
his
personality
he
will
always
want
to
stand
out.
18. Page 17 of 1
Appendix
(5)
Strengths
• Capitalizing
on
a
key
market
trend
• Appealing
to
a
wider
customer
base
• Introduction
of
new
suppliers,
new
fabrics
could
lead
to
further
developments
in
the
core
ranges.
Weaknesses
• Capsule
collection
may
need
extra
options
and
colourways
to
give
authority.
• Zara
customer
is
not
ready
for
this
trend
• The
range
alienates
the
core
Zara
customer
• Customer
only
wants
to
buy
from
acknowledged
sports
brands
e.g.
Nike.
Opportunities
• Success
could
lead
to
further
expansion
in
the
range
,
and
sales
and
profit
• New
suppliers
could
expand
into
other
categories
• A
standalone
sports
footwear
range
could
be
developed
• Sports
accessories
such
as
bags,
towels,
headbands
could
be
added
to
the
range
Threats
• Price
points
could
be
seen
as
too
expensive
if
only
seen
as
a
trend
and
not
investing
in
a
technical
sports
garment.
• The
Zara
customer
only
wants
to
buy
from
established
retailers.
E.g.
JD
sports
for
trainers
with
a
wider
choice
on
offer.
• The
trend
does
not
sell
as
a
key
trend
for
ss15,
and
takes
longer
to
build
