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Drafting pants by cinso
- 1. Drafting a Slacks Pants Source: Google.com i Learning Module
- 2. TABLE OF CONTENTS Topic Page Module Description……………………………………………………………………………………………3 Key Concepts in Drafting and Pattern……………………………………………………………..4 Drafting the Men’s Pants Front Pattern……………………………………………………………5 Drafting the Pattern Back Guide………………………………………………………………………6 Drafting the Pants Back Pattern……………………………………………………………………….7 Perform Seam Mensuration in Pants……………………………………………………………....8 Activity1…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….9 References………………………………………………………………………………………………………10 2
- 3. Module Description: This Module is a guide for you to acquire and explore the basic competencies needed in drafting a slacks pants. This learning module would leads you to Dressmaking National Certificate Level II (NC II). It covers three common competencies that a garment student ought to possess, namely: 1.) Reading and interpreting pattern design; 2.) Perform seam measurement; and 3.) Drafting front and back pants pattern. The preliminaries of this learning module includes the discussion of drafting and pattern concepts. Suggested time: 2 hours Summary of Learning Outcomes: Upon completion of this module the students must be able to: Learning Objectives 1. Discuss on the key concepts in drafting and pattern. Learning Objective 2. Perform seam mensuration in slacks pants. Learning Objective 3. Drafting a slacks pants pattern; and Learning Objective 4. Practice occupational safety and health. 3
- 4. Learning Objectives 1. Discuss on the key concepts in drafting and pattern. Introduction to Pattern Cutting and Drafting Pattern is a template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out and assembled. Pattern drafting is defined as a technique or method of drawing patterns on brown paper with accuracy and precision, based on the body measurements or standard measurement chart. Source: Google.com 4
- 5. Drafting the men’s pants front pattern 5 On a long piece of paper about (outseam + (4’’ or 10.4 cm) long and (seat + (6’’ or 15.6 cm) wide, draw a line down the middle. Near the top, select a point and mark point 0. From 0 down to 1 is (outseam- (1’’ or 2.6 cm). From 1 up measure up inseam to 2. 3 is midway between 1 and 2 (inseam/2). 4 from 3 is 2’’ (5.2 cm). Square out from points 0, 2, 4, and 1. 5 from 2 is (seat/5.5). 6 from 2 is (seat/12). 7 from 2 is (seat/12). Square up from 6 to locate 8 on line 0. Square out from 7 to locate 9 on line 6. 10 from 9 is 0.25’’ (0.6 cm). Draw line 8-10. 11 from 10 is (seat/4). 12 from 8 is (waist / 4) + (0.5 "or 1.3 cm). 13 and 14 from 4 is (knee width / 2). 15 and 16 from 1 is (cuff width / 2). 17 from 1 is (cuff depth) (3 * cuff depth) - (0.25 " or 0.6 cm): (2 " or 5.2 cm) (allowance for the cuff (if any) is included in this measurement). Square out from 17. The waist line form 8 is squared by line 8 - 10 until it is about 0.25 " (0.6 cm) below line 8 - 12. Then it curves gently into 12. The fly fall (front rise) follows the straight line 8 - 10 and then makes a shallow curve into 5. Through 11 the out seam is vertical from about 1 " (2.6 cm) above to 0.5 " (1.3 cm) below. Continue upward, curving into 12. Shape the leg, making the inseam and out seam vertical from the bottom to at least 2 " (5.2 cm) above 15 and 16 and identical to each other from the bottom to the knee. Above the knee the inseam is a natural continuation, waiting until almost the top to curve into 5. The out seam also continues naturally above 14, easing outward to meet the continuation downward from 11. Add notches (for assembly) at the following points: 0, 14, 16, 15, and 13. In the out seam, 1.5 " (3.9 cm) below the waist edge, and again 6.25 " (16.25 cm) below that (for the front pockets). In the fly fall about 1.5 " (3.9 cm) to 2.5 " (6.5 cm) from the inseam: Put the zero end of the tape measure 3/8 " (.97 cm) below the waist edge and measure along the fly fall 1/4 " (0.6 cm) in from the pattern outline. Cut the fly notch at the nearest whole inch, and that will be the length of your pants zipper.
- 6. Drafting the pattern back guide 6 The pattern back guide is used to determine the slope of the back pattern piece. Draw horizontal lines 0, 7, and 2 the same distance apart as on the pattern front. Near the right on line 2 mark point A. B from A is (seat / 4) + (2 " or 5.2 cm). Square up from A and B to locate C and D on line 0. E from B is (waist / 4) + (1.5 " or 3.9 cm). The distance between E and A should be (diff = (seat / 4) + (2 " or 5.2 cm)- (waist / 4 ) + (1.5 " or 3.9 cm). F from C is (diff / 2) G from D is ( diff / 2 ) Draw line A - F and locate point X where it crosses the horizontal line 7 . H from F is 4.5 “(11.7 cm) From H square down 2.5 " (6.5 cm) to locate J. K and L are each 1/4 " (0.6 cm) from H. Draw lines J - K and J - L (back dart). Draw line B - G and extend it 1/8 " (0.3 cm) to M. From M square out to 1/8 " (0.3 cm) below the horizontal line 0; then curve gradually into K. From L to F draw a curve that dips 1/8 " (0.3 cm) below the straight line. Extend the straight lines M - B and F - A to several inches below line A - B , and cut out the pattern back guide along the curved lines M - K and L - F . Cut out the vie for the back dart, all the way to J.
- 7. Drafting the pants back pattern 7 For the back pattern, use a piece of paper about (out seam + (12 " or 31.2 cm) long and (seat + (12 " or 31.2 cm) wide, draw a line down the middle. Lay the front pattern piece on the paper, lining up the 0 - 1 line of the front with the line on the paper, and draw around it. Indicate notches and points 10 and 11. Take away the front piece and label points 5, 13, 14, 15, and 16. Draw line 10 - 11 and extend it to the right. 18 from 11 is 2 “(5.2 cm) Place point X on the pattern back guide on point 18 on the paper. Using the common point as a pivot, swing the guide up until side M - B touches point 10 on the paper. Draw around the guide above 10 and 18 (X). Label M and F. 19 and 20 are 1/2 " (1.3 cm) from 13 and 14. 21 and 22 are 1/2 " (1.3 cm) from 15 and 16. 23 from 5 is ((seat / 24) + ((3/8 " or 1 cm))), that is, half of the distance from 7 to 2 plus 3/8 “(1 cm). 23 from 19 is the same as 5 from 13. The seat seam (back rise) follows the straight line M - 10 , becomes a shallow curve just outside the 10 - 5 curve of the front, and runs through 5 into 23 , finishing up straight for about the last 1 " (2.6 cm) . From the bottom to the knee the inseam lies 1/2 " (1.3 cm) outside the front outline. Above the knee it continues naturally, doing most of its curving into 23 near the top. The out seam too is 1/2 " (1.3 cm) outside the front outline from the bottom to just above the knee. Then it eases outward to pass through 18 and curve just outside the F - 18 line into F. The bottom is in line with that of the front. Cut out the pattern back, and cut knee and bottom notches.
- 8. Learning Objective 2. Perform Seam Mensuration in pants The seam allowance is 1/4 " (0.6 cm) The 1.5 " (3.9 cm) that was subtracted when applying the out seam measurement (line 0 - 1) represents the finished width of the waistband. It would seem that no seam was allowed for here, but note that line 12 - 11 - 14 - 16 is curved, not straight, and thus is actually greater than the out seam. The seam allowance is included in this curvature. This also makes the out seam on the front piece slightly shorter than the out seam in the back piece. This is a refinement found in custom-tailored pants. The out seam on the pants back is to be eased between about mid-thigh to about mid-calf, making the pants leg curving imperceptibly forward at the bottom. It was in locating point 18 that both seam allowance and ease are incorporated. Lines 10 - 11 on the front and 10 - 18 on the back together measure half the seat measurement plus 2 “(5.2 cm). Only very tight pants need provision for dress. The term refers to the side toward which a man places his intimate parts. A man is said to "dress right" or "dress left". Most men dress left. Dress is allowed for by deflecting the fly seam away from the side toward which the man dresses. The fork of one pants front, usually the right, is reduced by about 1/2 " (1.3 cm) Directions: Answer the following questions briefly: 1. What is pattern drafting? __________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________. 2. How to draft the pants front and back patterns? __________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________. 3. What is the importance of using appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) during pattern drafting? 8 Self-Check 1
- 9. Directions: Draft the following pants pattern in a short sized bond paper. 1. Drafting the men’s pants front pattern 2. Drafting the pants back pattern Points Criteria 9-10 All tools in drafting were properly used and labelled with correct measurement. 7-8 Almost all of the tools in drafting were properly used and labelled with correct measurement. 5-6 Some of the drafting tools were properly used and labelled with correct measurement. 3-4 Some of the drafting tools were improperly used and labelled incorrectly. 9 Activity Sheet 1 Do the task by following the scoring rubric honestly and sincerely.