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DENIM WASHING
Pravat Kumar Sahoo
Lect. (F&AT)
CET,Bhubaneswar.
INTRODUCTION OF DENIM…
• Denim is a rugged cotton
twill textile, in which the
weft passes under two or
more warp threads.
• It produces a diagonal
ribbing effect.
• The most common is
Indigo Denim, in which
the warp is dyed and weft
is left white.
HISTORY OF DENIM…
• “Denim” comes from fabric
"serge de Nimes" made in
France city of Nimes from
where it originates.
• It has been used in America
since the late 18th century.
• Denim was first used for
clothes worn by workers
because of its high durability.
• It became widely popular in
the 1930s when Hollywood
started using.
Types of Denim
1. BUBBLE GUM DENIM (Lycra
containing denim that has between 35 to
50% stretch)
2. COLOURED DENIM (Fabric is
woven with dyed yarn either warp or
weft, It can also be obtained by Piece
dyeing process.)
3. CRUSHED DENIM (Textured effect
achieved through a special fabric
construction coupled with wet processing,
Fabric is woven with an over twist weft
yarn, The effect can also be improved by
bleach and stone )
4. DENIM FROM FOX FIBRE (Denim
fabric manufactured by coloured cotton
fibre that grows naturally developed and
patented by California cotton breeder
Sally Fox. NITRA, India has also done work
on this line.)
5. MARBEL DENIM (It is an another
name for acid wash, Some crushed
denims, if strongly bleached, are also
called marble.)
6. ECRU DENIM (The denim, which is
not having dyed yarn i.e. only grey yarn in
warp & weft.)
7. REVERSE DENIM (Where the face
side and reverse side look alike.)
8. VINTAGE DENIM (A denim
treatment that applies heavy stone
washing or a cellulose enzyme wash with
or without bleach for an old and worn
outlook.)
Types of Denim
•Denim washing is the aesthetic
finish given to the denim fabric
to enhance the appeal and to
provide strength.
•It is one of the finishing
treatment creating special
appearance and updating
clothes.
•Several wash effects can be
produced such as- color fading
with or without patchiness, seam
puckering, de-pilling, crinkles,
hairiness etc.
Denim Washing
• The concept of washing the
Denim jeans was started by
Jack Spencer for the brand
Lee in 1963.
• Stone-wash was first started
by Francois Girbaud.
• The concept of sandblasting
was started in 1988 by a
number of branded
companies in Italy.
When Started..
1. Mechanical washes
• Stone wash
• Micro sanding
2. Chemical washes
• Denim bleaching
• Enzyme wash
• Acid wash
Types of Denim Washes
• LASER TECHNOLOGY
• SUPER STONEWASH
• SCRUBBING
• GRINDINGS
Other Mechanical Washes
• RINSE WASH
• OZONE FADING
• OVER DYE- TINTING
• SUN WASHING
• WATER JET FADING
• VINTAGE
Other Chemical Washes
• This method is most
common and is used to
give denim an 'OLD-LOOK'.
• Pumice stone is one of the
most important
components used to
abrade the surface of the
fabric to obtain a surface
pattern effect with color
contrast and soft - handle.
Stone Washing
• In this process, the fibres
on the surface of the
fabric are broken and
removed and the inner
white fibres of the warp
yarn are gradually
exposed.
• Natural patterns can be
formed as the degree of
abrasions varies in various
parts of the garment.
Stone Washing
Selection of Stone
•According to the end
product & effect required.
•Large, hard stones last
longer and may be suited for
heavy weight fabrics only.
•Smaller, softer stones would
be used for light weight
fabrics and more delicate
items.
•Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to
3 /1
Specifications of Stone
• Moisture content-less than
5%
• Surface properties-less
than 5% fines
• Apparent Density-0.5-
0.75gm/cm3
• Abrasion loss-35%
• Impurities –
when exceed 10% they
increase apparent density
1 gm/cm3, the stone will
not float in water during
process.
Stonewash Cycle
1.Loading of denim garment
and stones.
2.Desizing for about 15
minutes- Detergent plus
enzymes.
3.Rinsing
4.Stone wash- 30 to 60 min
5.Rinsing
6.Softening
7.Extraction
8.Unloading and removal of
stones from garment
9.Tumble drying
Limitations
•Outcome of a load of jeans
is never uniform.
•Damage to wash
machineries and garment
due to stone to machine
abrasion.
•Increase in labor to remove
stone particles from finished
garments.
•Water pollution during
disposal of used liquor.
Microsanding
There are 3 ways for this
technique:-
Sandblasting
Machine sanding
Hand sanding or hand
brushing
• To achieve an abrasion
effect, sand is fired at a
great speed onto the fabric
through a nozzle.
• It is purely mechanical
process.
• Varieties of abraded look
or used look are possible in
sand blasting’s technique.
Sand Blasting
• In this fabric treatment
process, a series of
cylindrical rolls in a
horizontal arrangement,
either wrapped with an
abrasive paper or
chemically coated with an
abrasive.
Machine Sanding
• In this process sand paper
is used to abrade surface
of the denim fabric.
Hand Sanding
• Uses a beam of light that
burns away the indigo dye
to produce a worn look.
• Design can be placed
anywhere on the jean
• Different degrees of
degradation
• Less air contamination
• Less wear & tear
• Much faster
Laser Technology
• The fading of creases in blue
jeans, especially around the
crotch.
• Often added artificially in
order to simulate a "worn"
look.
• Usually found on the front
pocket area of jeans.
• The worker to just scrape
normally on the jeans by
using Moduls and the
whiskers appear uniformly
Whiskering
• When we look at old jeans we
find it destroyed from the edges
of pockets, fly area, belt and
bottom. This used effect can be
created on jeans by grinding.
• It is done on pocket edges &
bottom hems edges by running
against abrasion surface or stone
to achieve worn out effect.
• Many different make of machines
& pen grinding tools are available
in the market which runs with
pneumatic system.
Grinding
• 1.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim#cite_note-autogenerated1-1
• 2.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck
• 3.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigo_dye
• 4.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%AEmes
• 5.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim#cite_note-autogenerated1-1
• 6.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer%27s_blue
• 7."How jeans conquered the world". BBC News. 2012-02-28.
• 8.In 1789 George Washington toured a Beverly, Massachusetts factory producing
machine-woven cotton denim. (Massachusetts Foundation for the Humanities: Mass
Moments
• 9.Coe, Nick. "The Essential Raw Denim Breakdown – Our 100th Article!".
RawrDenim.com. Edmonton, Alberta, Canada: RawrDenim.com. Retrieved 2012-03-28. "I
had read somewhere that a pair of raw denim is like an individualized canvass. Indeed
the fade results and any other visible marks, rips, or tears are specific you and your body.
For a dramatic illustration of what we mean, hop over to Takayuki Akashi's documentary
on the “Traveling Denim“."
• 10.Slater, Sean. "When Should I Wash My Raw Jeans? – A Rough Guide".
RawrDenim.com. Edmonton, Alberta, Canada: RawrDenim.com. Retrieved 2012-03-28. "If
you’re able to wear your jeans all day, every day then 6 months may be long enough (or
perhaps even too long).
Reference

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Denim wash

  • 1. DENIM WASHING Pravat Kumar Sahoo Lect. (F&AT) CET,Bhubaneswar.
  • 2. INTRODUCTION OF DENIM… • Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. • It produces a diagonal ribbing effect. • The most common is Indigo Denim, in which the warp is dyed and weft is left white.
  • 3. HISTORY OF DENIM… • “Denim” comes from fabric "serge de Nimes" made in France city of Nimes from where it originates. • It has been used in America since the late 18th century. • Denim was first used for clothes worn by workers because of its high durability. • It became widely popular in the 1930s when Hollywood started using.
  • 4. Types of Denim 1. BUBBLE GUM DENIM (Lycra containing denim that has between 35 to 50% stretch) 2. COLOURED DENIM (Fabric is woven with dyed yarn either warp or weft, It can also be obtained by Piece dyeing process.) 3. CRUSHED DENIM (Textured effect achieved through a special fabric construction coupled with wet processing, Fabric is woven with an over twist weft yarn, The effect can also be improved by bleach and stone ) 4. DENIM FROM FOX FIBRE (Denim fabric manufactured by coloured cotton fibre that grows naturally developed and patented by California cotton breeder Sally Fox. NITRA, India has also done work on this line.)
  • 5. 5. MARBEL DENIM (It is an another name for acid wash, Some crushed denims, if strongly bleached, are also called marble.) 6. ECRU DENIM (The denim, which is not having dyed yarn i.e. only grey yarn in warp & weft.) 7. REVERSE DENIM (Where the face side and reverse side look alike.) 8. VINTAGE DENIM (A denim treatment that applies heavy stone washing or a cellulose enzyme wash with or without bleach for an old and worn outlook.) Types of Denim
  • 6. •Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. •It is one of the finishing treatment creating special appearance and updating clothes. •Several wash effects can be produced such as- color fading with or without patchiness, seam puckering, de-pilling, crinkles, hairiness etc. Denim Washing
  • 7. • The concept of washing the Denim jeans was started by Jack Spencer for the brand Lee in 1963. • Stone-wash was first started by Francois Girbaud. • The concept of sandblasting was started in 1988 by a number of branded companies in Italy. When Started..
  • 8. 1. Mechanical washes • Stone wash • Micro sanding 2. Chemical washes • Denim bleaching • Enzyme wash • Acid wash Types of Denim Washes
  • 9. • LASER TECHNOLOGY • SUPER STONEWASH • SCRUBBING • GRINDINGS Other Mechanical Washes
  • 10. • RINSE WASH • OZONE FADING • OVER DYE- TINTING • SUN WASHING • WATER JET FADING • VINTAGE Other Chemical Washes
  • 11. • This method is most common and is used to give denim an 'OLD-LOOK'. • Pumice stone is one of the most important components used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with color contrast and soft - handle. Stone Washing
  • 12. • In this process, the fibres on the surface of the fabric are broken and removed and the inner white fibres of the warp yarn are gradually exposed. • Natural patterns can be formed as the degree of abrasions varies in various parts of the garment. Stone Washing
  • 13. Selection of Stone •According to the end product & effect required. •Large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only. •Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate items. •Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1
  • 14. Specifications of Stone • Moisture content-less than 5% • Surface properties-less than 5% fines • Apparent Density-0.5- 0.75gm/cm3 • Abrasion loss-35% • Impurities – when exceed 10% they increase apparent density 1 gm/cm3, the stone will not float in water during process.
  • 15. Stonewash Cycle 1.Loading of denim garment and stones. 2.Desizing for about 15 minutes- Detergent plus enzymes. 3.Rinsing 4.Stone wash- 30 to 60 min 5.Rinsing 6.Softening 7.Extraction 8.Unloading and removal of stones from garment 9.Tumble drying
  • 16. Limitations •Outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform. •Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine abrasion. •Increase in labor to remove stone particles from finished garments. •Water pollution during disposal of used liquor.
  • 17. Microsanding There are 3 ways for this technique:- Sandblasting Machine sanding Hand sanding or hand brushing
  • 18. • To achieve an abrasion effect, sand is fired at a great speed onto the fabric through a nozzle. • It is purely mechanical process. • Varieties of abraded look or used look are possible in sand blasting’s technique. Sand Blasting
  • 19. • In this fabric treatment process, a series of cylindrical rolls in a horizontal arrangement, either wrapped with an abrasive paper or chemically coated with an abrasive. Machine Sanding
  • 20. • In this process sand paper is used to abrade surface of the denim fabric. Hand Sanding
  • 21. • Uses a beam of light that burns away the indigo dye to produce a worn look. • Design can be placed anywhere on the jean • Different degrees of degradation • Less air contamination • Less wear & tear • Much faster Laser Technology
  • 22. • The fading of creases in blue jeans, especially around the crotch. • Often added artificially in order to simulate a "worn" look. • Usually found on the front pocket area of jeans. • The worker to just scrape normally on the jeans by using Moduls and the whiskers appear uniformly Whiskering
  • 23. • When we look at old jeans we find it destroyed from the edges of pockets, fly area, belt and bottom. This used effect can be created on jeans by grinding. • It is done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. • Many different make of machines & pen grinding tools are available in the market which runs with pneumatic system. Grinding
  • 24. • 1.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim#cite_note-autogenerated1-1 • 2.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_duck • 3.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigo_dye • 4.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%AEmes • 5.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denim#cite_note-autogenerated1-1 • 6.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer%27s_blue • 7."How jeans conquered the world". BBC News. 2012-02-28. • 8.In 1789 George Washington toured a Beverly, Massachusetts factory producing machine-woven cotton denim. (Massachusetts Foundation for the Humanities: Mass Moments • 9.Coe, Nick. "The Essential Raw Denim Breakdown – Our 100th Article!". RawrDenim.com. Edmonton, Alberta, Canada: RawrDenim.com. Retrieved 2012-03-28. "I had read somewhere that a pair of raw denim is like an individualized canvass. Indeed the fade results and any other visible marks, rips, or tears are specific you and your body. For a dramatic illustration of what we mean, hop over to Takayuki Akashi's documentary on the “Traveling Denim“." • 10.Slater, Sean. "When Should I Wash My Raw Jeans? – A Rough Guide". RawrDenim.com. Edmonton, Alberta, Canada: RawrDenim.com. Retrieved 2012-03-28. "If you’re able to wear your jeans all day, every day then 6 months may be long enough (or perhaps even too long). Reference