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It’s Recycling…
Naturally
1
What is composting?
Grass clippings
Food scraps
Leaves
Using the natural process of decay to
change organic wastes into a valuable
humus-like material called compost
Compost
2
Composting -
Speeding up the natural decay process
A compost pile or bin
allows you to control
•Air (oxygen)
•Water
•Food, and
•Temperature
By managing these factors you can speed up
the otherwise slow natural decay process
3
Why compost yard and kitchen wastes?
• PA’s goal is to recycle 35% of
municipal waste – composting helps!
• National Composting Council
estimates the average U.S. household
generates 650 lb of compostables
every year. 4
• Limited landfill space should be
reserved for materials that cannot be
recycled or composted
• Garbage handling is the 4th largest
expense for many cities.
Composting can reduce those costs
• 34% of landfilled waste in PA is food
and another 30% is paper.
5
Paper products
32.7%
(54)
Metals
8.2%
Glass
5.3%
Plastic
12.1%
Other
16.4%
Food
12.5%
(2.6)
Yard
12.8%
(64)
1998 U.S. Municipal Solid Waste
Generation
2007 Municipal Solid Waste
Production in the U.S.
Total = 254 million tons/yr
(4.6 lb/person/day)
Backyard composting
can increase recycling
of yard and food
wastes.
Percent of category
that was recycled
The overall recycling
rate was 33% in 2007
6
What do you need to make
compost?
• Decomposers – Your
composting work crew.
These are the microbes
(mainly bacteria and fungi)
that do all the work for you.
• Food for the decomposers
The organic materials to be
composted
• The right amount of air,
water, and warmth to keep
the work crew happy
7
Where do the decomposers
come from?
If you build it,
they will come…
• Soil
• Leaves
• Food scraps
• Manure, and
• Finished compost
Each of these will add
microorganisms
to the compost pile
8
One teaspoon of good garden soil to
which compost has been added contains
• 100 million bacteria
• 800 feet of fungal threads
9
Numerous additives and starters are available but are
not needed for good or rapid composting
10
What is the best food for your
decomposers?
All organic materials will compost, but not all should be
added to a backyard compost pile
Organic wastes that should be composted include:
Garden
trimmings
Kitchen scraps
Also
• Used potting soil
• Manure
• Sawdust
• Hair
Grass
clippings
Leaves
11
Materials to avoid…
Avoid organic materials that could cause
problems during or after composting
• Oil, fat, grease, meat, fish or dairy products,
unwashed egg shells (tend to attract pests,
vermin)
• Hard to kill weeds (bindweed, quackgrass) and
weeds that have gone to seed (could infest garden
area when compost is used).
12
Materials to avoid…
Cat or dog waste
(attracts pests, could spread disease)
Diseased or insect ridden plants
(could infect or attack garden
plants when compost is used)
13
Materials to avoid…
• Lime (increases compost
pH and promotes
ammonia odor problems)
• Wood ash, add sparingly
to the pile (will add some
potash to compost but will
increase pH and ammonia
odor problems)
14
Is shredding necessary?
Have greater surface
area per unit volume
Allows microbes to
get at more of the
food
Smaller particles decompose faster
Chipping or
shredding coarse
materials (twigs,
stems) will speed
up the rate at which
they decompose
15
Is shredding necessary?
but…
Smaller particles will also decrease airflow
into the pile
– May lead to anaerobic conditions
– Pile may need to be turned more often
16
More about food for your
decomposers
Your compost workers will thrive if you give them a
balanced diet.
• Composting will be most rapid if the decomposers
are fed a mix of carbon rich and nitrogen rich
materials.
• Carbon rich organic wastes are known as
“browns”
• Nitrogen rich organic wastes are known as
“greens”
17
Leaves (30-80:1)
Straw (40-100:1)
Paper (150-200:1)
Sawdust (100-500:1)
Animal bedding
mixed with manure
(30-80:1)
High carbon materials such as
18
Vegetable scraps (12-20:1)
Coffee grounds (20:1)
Grass clippings (12-25:1)
Manure
– Cow (20:1)
– Horse (25:1)
– Poultry (10:1), with litter
(13-18:1)
– Hog (5-7:1)
High nitrogen materials such as
19
Browns
• Decay very slowly
• Coarse browns can keep
pile aerated
• Tend to accumulate in the
fall
• Tie up nitrogen in soil if
not fully composted
• May need to stockpile
until can mix with greens
Greens
• Decay rapidly
• Poor aeration – may have
foul odors if composted
alone
• Tend to accumulate in
spring and summer
• Supply nitrogen for
composting
• Best composting if mixed
with browns
20
Aerobic composting
• Composting with
decomposers that need
air (oxygen)
• The fastest way to
make high quality
compost
• Produces no foul odors
• Aerobic decomposers
produce heat
21
Aerobic composting and
temperature
• A thermometer is a nice tool but is not essential
for good composting
• Active composting occurs in the temperature
range of 55oF to 155oF
• Pile temperature may
increase above 140oF but
this is too hot for most
bacteria and decomposition
will slow until temperature
decreases again.
55 140
155
22
Does my compost pile have to get
hot?
• Good compost can be made in a pile that never
gets hot, but…
– Decay will be slower and it will take longer to make
compost
– Not enough air, to little or too much water, or too
many browns in the mix could all keep a pile from
heating.
• High pile temperature provides the benefits of
– The most rapid composting
– Killing pathogenic (disease causing) organisms
– Killing weed seeds
23
Getting air to your
decomposers
Hot air
low
O2
cool
air
O2
rich
O2
Warm air rising
through the pile
draws fresh air
in from bottom
and sides
Wind can
stimulate
aeration
24
Pile aeration
Depends upon adequate porosity
• Porosity is the air filled space between particles
• “Browns” help to maintain good porosity in the pile
• A compacted pile has lost porosity, can be increased
by turning
• Aeration can be
increased by inserting
sticks, cornstalks, or
perforated pipes into
or under the pile
25
Pile aeration
Getting air to your work force
• Turning the pile mixes
fresh air into the pile
• Turning tools can make
the job easier
26
Water
• Pile water content should
be at 40-60%
• As wet as a squeezed out
sponge
• If too dry, add water as
you turn the pile
• If too wet, add browns
and/or turn the pile
•Rapid decomposition requires optimum water content
• If too dry, bacterial activity will slow or cease
• If too wet, loss of air in the pile will lead to anaerobic conditions
27
Taking care of your compost
pile
• The most rapid composting is achieved by
– Adding mixed browns + greens
– Regularly turning (mixing) the compost pile
– Controlling water content
• When pile no longer heats after mixing, allow it to
cure (stand without mixing) for at least 4 weeks
before using the compost
28
Making compost the fast way
(Instructions for active composters)
•Turn the pile every 5 to 7 days,
–move outer material to the pile center
–add water if needed
•During the first few weeks temp should
reach 140oF
•After about 4 weeks less heat will be
produced and compost will maintain
lower temp (100oF)
29
Making compost the fast way
(Instructions for active composters)
•After about 4 more weeks the pile will no
longer heat after turning and volume will
be about one third of original.
•Allow the pile to cure (stand without
turning) for 4 more weeks before using
the compost
30
When is compost finished?
Compost is mature when
• The color is dark brown
• It is crumbly, loose,
and humus-like
• It has an earthy smell
• It contains no readily
recognizable feedstock
• The pile has shrunk to
about 1/3 of its original volume
31
Simple tests for finished
compost
Bag test: sealing compost in
a plastic bag for several days
should produce no foul odor
Germination test: will seeds
germinate in the compost?
(good test to use if compost will
be part of a potting mix)
32
Where should I put my
compost pile?
• Shaded area will help
prevent drying out in
summer
• Avoid areas that will
interfere with lawn and
garden activities
• Adequate work area
around the pile
• Area for storage
• Water available
33
Considerations for locating
the compost pile
• Good drainage
• Away from any wells
• Near where finished compost will be used
• Be a good neighbor
– Make your composting area attractive, or
– Keep it out of your neighbors’ view
34
Bin/pile construction
• Ideal size is approximately a 3 foot
cube
– Promotes sufficient aeration
– Retains sufficient heat to maintain warm
temps
– Piles larger than 5 x 5 x 5 feet are
difficult to turn and tend to become
anaerobic in the center
35
Manufactured bins
36
The Earth Machine Bin
37
Compost Troubleshooting
Odors
Odors are one of the most frequent but easily avoidable
composting problems.
• Rotten odor
– Putrid smell or rotten egg smell
– Usually results from anaerobic conditions
– Excess moisture, compaction
– Turn pile, add dry porous material (browns), cover kitchen
scraps
• Ammonia odor
– Too much nitrogen (greens)
– Add high carbon material (browns), turn pile
38
Compost Troubleshooting
Temperature
Low pile temperature
• Pile too small, cold weather, too dry, poor aeration, or
lacks nitrogen
• Make pile bigger or insulate sides, add water, turn the
pile, add greens or manure
High pile temperature
• Pile too large, insufficient ventilation
• Reduce pile size, turn
39
Compost Troubleshooting
Pests: raccoons, rats, insects
• Presence of meat scraps or fatty food waste,
rotten odors
• Remove meats and fatty foods, cover with
sawdust or leaves, turn the pile
• Compost in an animal-proof bin
– Covered bin, trash can bin, cone bin, or barrel
bin
– Wire mesh sides and floor (1/4 – 1/2 in
openings)
• Use worm composting (vermicomposting)
for food scraps
40
Benefits of compost
Promotes soil health
• Supplies organic
matter to soil
• Attracts earthworms
• Stimulates beneficial
soil microorganisms
• Increases soil water
holding capacity
• Increases soil nutrient
retention
41
Benefits of compost
Promotes soil health
•Improves soil tilth and friability
•Improves soil drainage
•Loosens heavy clay soils
•Suppresses soil-borne plant pathogens
(diseases)
42
Benefits of compost
Plant nutrients
Compost is not a fertilizer,
but does contain plant
nutrients
• Nitrogen and phosphorus
are mostly in organic
forms
– Released slowly to plants
– Not readily leached from the
topsoil
• Compost contains many
trace nutrients that are
essential for plant growth
43
Using finished compost
• Soil amendment
– Be sure that compost is mature, has an earthy smell
(no ammonia or rotten smell), looks dark and
crumbly with no recognizable feedstock
– Compost improves soil health when mixed in the top
4 to 6 inches (work in no more than a 2” layer of
compost)
• Will improve water and nutrient retention of sandy soils
• Will loosen compacted clay soils and make them more
friable
44
Using finished compost
• Surface mulch in the
garden/landscape
– Maximum 3” depth
– Start 3-4” from trunk
– Extend out to dripline
• Mulch provides
– Protection from temp
extremes
– Slows moisture loss
from soil
– Provides some slow
release nutrients
45
Using finished compost
• Lawn topdressing
– Be sure compost is very mature to avoid harming the lawn
– Use fine (screened) compost, ¼” depth raked over lawn
– Best if lawn is cored before applying compost
– Retains moisture, supplies slow release nutrients,
prevents soil compaction
• Potting mix
– Compost must be very mature to avoid injury to plants
– Use fine textured compost
– Mix no more than 1/3 compost by volume
46
Presentation by
Rick Stehouwer, Associate Professor and Extension Specialist
Toni Bilik, State Master Gardener Coordinator
Tom Becker, York County Cooperative Extension
George Hurd, Franklin County Cooperative Extension
Greg Burns, Elk County Cooperative Extension
Earle Robbins, Tioga County Cooperative Extension
Jim Cowden, Warren County Cooperative Extension
Kathleen Geist, Montgomery County Cooperative Extension
Patti Peck-Olenick, PA DEP Composting Coordinator
47
Manure Management
Workshops
• March 18th and April 8th
• 9AM – 1PM
• @ Curwensville Community Center
• Please register by talking to us today or calling
765-2629
• Refreshments and food will be provided
• For anyone that produces or uses manure or has
more than 5,000 sq ft of tillage (Ag E&S Plan)
48
Rotating Compost Barrel
Construction
49
Materials Needed
55 Gallon Barrel
5 foot metal
pole/fencepost
Treated
4 - 2x4s 4ft long
2 - 4x4s 4ft long
Handle/Rope
50
Materials Needed (cont.)
51
Furring strips
3 – 10”
2 – 3”
2 Corner Brackets
1x6x12” piece of
Hardwood for
mixing paddle
Hinges Hasp Lock
16 - 3” screws
Recommended Tools
Drill Jigsaw Circular Saw
Hole Saw
Hammer
Measuring tape
Framing square
Flexible ruler
¾” and 1”
Drill Bits 52
Drill Holes in barrel for Post
• Find the center of the
barrel on each end and
mark it
• Drill a hole slightly
larger than the
diameter of your metal
pole centered on each
mark
53
Step 1:
Drill Aeration Holes in Barrel
• Drill 15-20 holes with a
1 inch bit on each side
of the barrel
• Should have 30-40
holes for aeration when
finished
54
Step 2:
Attach mixing paddle
• Inside the
barrel screw
the corner
brackets into
the plastic
• To attach paddle to the
barrel screws will have
to go trough barrel into
(1) 10” furring stripe on
the outside of barrel.
55
• Attach mixing
paddle to
corner
brackets
using screws
Step 3:
Drill Holes in 4x4 for post
• Measure 6” down on
both 4x4 posts, and
mark the center of each
post
• On the mark drill a hole
slightly larger than the
diameter of your metal
pole (do this on both
4x4s)
56
Step 4:
Assemble Stand
• Stand 4x4s up with
holes at the top and
place a 2x4 on each
side
• Use screws to secure
2x4s to the 4x4s
57
Step 5:
Assemble Stand Part 2
• Find the middle of the
remaining 2x4s and
center them on the end
of the 4x4
perpendicular to the
other 2x4s
• Place one screw into
each of the 2x4 ends
and one into the 4x4
• Make sure you don’t hit
the screws going the
other direction 58
Step 5:
Place barrel on stand
• Slide post through
holes on barrel
• Put one end of post
through the 4x4, slide
post through until the
other end will slide into
the other 4x4
59
Step 6:
Drill Holes to cut out door
• Measure and draw a
12” x 12” section for
the door
• Drill a small hole in
each corner for the
jigsaw to get started
• Start the jigsaw in each
corner and cut out the
door
60
Step 7:
Attach door with hinges
• Drill a hole
through the
plastic on
your marks
61
• Hold the
hinges up to
the door and
mark where
the screws
will go
Step 8:
Attach door with hinges (cont.)
• Repeat process to
attach door to barrel
62
• Holding (1) 10” furring
strip underneath the
holes attach the hinge
with the screws
provided
Step 8:
Attach Hasp Lock
• Mark drill holes on the
handle side
• Drill pilot holes as
before
• Holding (1) 3” furring
strip underneath the
holes attach the top
part of the hasp with
the screws provided
• Repeat for the latch on
the barrel 63
Step 9:
Attach Handle
• Drill holes
through door
• Thread rope
through holes
• Tie a knot in
both ends of
the rope to
achieve a
handle of your
desired length
64
• Completed door
with handle and
hasp attached
Step 10:
Enjoy your finished rotating
composting barrel
65
Thank you to our Sponsors!
•Department of Environmental Protection
Environmental Education Grants Program
•Bee Kind Winery
• Hoyt Plumbing and Heating
66

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composting.ppt ooooooooooooooooooooo;;;;;

  • 2. What is composting? Grass clippings Food scraps Leaves Using the natural process of decay to change organic wastes into a valuable humus-like material called compost Compost 2
  • 3. Composting - Speeding up the natural decay process A compost pile or bin allows you to control •Air (oxygen) •Water •Food, and •Temperature By managing these factors you can speed up the otherwise slow natural decay process 3
  • 4. Why compost yard and kitchen wastes? • PA’s goal is to recycle 35% of municipal waste – composting helps! • National Composting Council estimates the average U.S. household generates 650 lb of compostables every year. 4
  • 5. • Limited landfill space should be reserved for materials that cannot be recycled or composted • Garbage handling is the 4th largest expense for many cities. Composting can reduce those costs • 34% of landfilled waste in PA is food and another 30% is paper. 5
  • 6. Paper products 32.7% (54) Metals 8.2% Glass 5.3% Plastic 12.1% Other 16.4% Food 12.5% (2.6) Yard 12.8% (64) 1998 U.S. Municipal Solid Waste Generation 2007 Municipal Solid Waste Production in the U.S. Total = 254 million tons/yr (4.6 lb/person/day) Backyard composting can increase recycling of yard and food wastes. Percent of category that was recycled The overall recycling rate was 33% in 2007 6
  • 7. What do you need to make compost? • Decomposers – Your composting work crew. These are the microbes (mainly bacteria and fungi) that do all the work for you. • Food for the decomposers The organic materials to be composted • The right amount of air, water, and warmth to keep the work crew happy 7
  • 8. Where do the decomposers come from? If you build it, they will come… • Soil • Leaves • Food scraps • Manure, and • Finished compost Each of these will add microorganisms to the compost pile 8
  • 9. One teaspoon of good garden soil to which compost has been added contains • 100 million bacteria • 800 feet of fungal threads 9
  • 10. Numerous additives and starters are available but are not needed for good or rapid composting 10
  • 11. What is the best food for your decomposers? All organic materials will compost, but not all should be added to a backyard compost pile Organic wastes that should be composted include: Garden trimmings Kitchen scraps Also • Used potting soil • Manure • Sawdust • Hair Grass clippings Leaves 11
  • 12. Materials to avoid… Avoid organic materials that could cause problems during or after composting • Oil, fat, grease, meat, fish or dairy products, unwashed egg shells (tend to attract pests, vermin) • Hard to kill weeds (bindweed, quackgrass) and weeds that have gone to seed (could infest garden area when compost is used). 12
  • 13. Materials to avoid… Cat or dog waste (attracts pests, could spread disease) Diseased or insect ridden plants (could infect or attack garden plants when compost is used) 13
  • 14. Materials to avoid… • Lime (increases compost pH and promotes ammonia odor problems) • Wood ash, add sparingly to the pile (will add some potash to compost but will increase pH and ammonia odor problems) 14
  • 15. Is shredding necessary? Have greater surface area per unit volume Allows microbes to get at more of the food Smaller particles decompose faster Chipping or shredding coarse materials (twigs, stems) will speed up the rate at which they decompose 15
  • 16. Is shredding necessary? but… Smaller particles will also decrease airflow into the pile – May lead to anaerobic conditions – Pile may need to be turned more often 16
  • 17. More about food for your decomposers Your compost workers will thrive if you give them a balanced diet. • Composting will be most rapid if the decomposers are fed a mix of carbon rich and nitrogen rich materials. • Carbon rich organic wastes are known as “browns” • Nitrogen rich organic wastes are known as “greens” 17
  • 18. Leaves (30-80:1) Straw (40-100:1) Paper (150-200:1) Sawdust (100-500:1) Animal bedding mixed with manure (30-80:1) High carbon materials such as 18
  • 19. Vegetable scraps (12-20:1) Coffee grounds (20:1) Grass clippings (12-25:1) Manure – Cow (20:1) – Horse (25:1) – Poultry (10:1), with litter (13-18:1) – Hog (5-7:1) High nitrogen materials such as 19
  • 20. Browns • Decay very slowly • Coarse browns can keep pile aerated • Tend to accumulate in the fall • Tie up nitrogen in soil if not fully composted • May need to stockpile until can mix with greens Greens • Decay rapidly • Poor aeration – may have foul odors if composted alone • Tend to accumulate in spring and summer • Supply nitrogen for composting • Best composting if mixed with browns 20
  • 21. Aerobic composting • Composting with decomposers that need air (oxygen) • The fastest way to make high quality compost • Produces no foul odors • Aerobic decomposers produce heat 21
  • 22. Aerobic composting and temperature • A thermometer is a nice tool but is not essential for good composting • Active composting occurs in the temperature range of 55oF to 155oF • Pile temperature may increase above 140oF but this is too hot for most bacteria and decomposition will slow until temperature decreases again. 55 140 155 22
  • 23. Does my compost pile have to get hot? • Good compost can be made in a pile that never gets hot, but… – Decay will be slower and it will take longer to make compost – Not enough air, to little or too much water, or too many browns in the mix could all keep a pile from heating. • High pile temperature provides the benefits of – The most rapid composting – Killing pathogenic (disease causing) organisms – Killing weed seeds 23
  • 24. Getting air to your decomposers Hot air low O2 cool air O2 rich O2 Warm air rising through the pile draws fresh air in from bottom and sides Wind can stimulate aeration 24
  • 25. Pile aeration Depends upon adequate porosity • Porosity is the air filled space between particles • “Browns” help to maintain good porosity in the pile • A compacted pile has lost porosity, can be increased by turning • Aeration can be increased by inserting sticks, cornstalks, or perforated pipes into or under the pile 25
  • 26. Pile aeration Getting air to your work force • Turning the pile mixes fresh air into the pile • Turning tools can make the job easier 26
  • 27. Water • Pile water content should be at 40-60% • As wet as a squeezed out sponge • If too dry, add water as you turn the pile • If too wet, add browns and/or turn the pile •Rapid decomposition requires optimum water content • If too dry, bacterial activity will slow or cease • If too wet, loss of air in the pile will lead to anaerobic conditions 27
  • 28. Taking care of your compost pile • The most rapid composting is achieved by – Adding mixed browns + greens – Regularly turning (mixing) the compost pile – Controlling water content • When pile no longer heats after mixing, allow it to cure (stand without mixing) for at least 4 weeks before using the compost 28
  • 29. Making compost the fast way (Instructions for active composters) •Turn the pile every 5 to 7 days, –move outer material to the pile center –add water if needed •During the first few weeks temp should reach 140oF •After about 4 weeks less heat will be produced and compost will maintain lower temp (100oF) 29
  • 30. Making compost the fast way (Instructions for active composters) •After about 4 more weeks the pile will no longer heat after turning and volume will be about one third of original. •Allow the pile to cure (stand without turning) for 4 more weeks before using the compost 30
  • 31. When is compost finished? Compost is mature when • The color is dark brown • It is crumbly, loose, and humus-like • It has an earthy smell • It contains no readily recognizable feedstock • The pile has shrunk to about 1/3 of its original volume 31
  • 32. Simple tests for finished compost Bag test: sealing compost in a plastic bag for several days should produce no foul odor Germination test: will seeds germinate in the compost? (good test to use if compost will be part of a potting mix) 32
  • 33. Where should I put my compost pile? • Shaded area will help prevent drying out in summer • Avoid areas that will interfere with lawn and garden activities • Adequate work area around the pile • Area for storage • Water available 33
  • 34. Considerations for locating the compost pile • Good drainage • Away from any wells • Near where finished compost will be used • Be a good neighbor – Make your composting area attractive, or – Keep it out of your neighbors’ view 34
  • 35. Bin/pile construction • Ideal size is approximately a 3 foot cube – Promotes sufficient aeration – Retains sufficient heat to maintain warm temps – Piles larger than 5 x 5 x 5 feet are difficult to turn and tend to become anaerobic in the center 35
  • 38. Compost Troubleshooting Odors Odors are one of the most frequent but easily avoidable composting problems. • Rotten odor – Putrid smell or rotten egg smell – Usually results from anaerobic conditions – Excess moisture, compaction – Turn pile, add dry porous material (browns), cover kitchen scraps • Ammonia odor – Too much nitrogen (greens) – Add high carbon material (browns), turn pile 38
  • 39. Compost Troubleshooting Temperature Low pile temperature • Pile too small, cold weather, too dry, poor aeration, or lacks nitrogen • Make pile bigger or insulate sides, add water, turn the pile, add greens or manure High pile temperature • Pile too large, insufficient ventilation • Reduce pile size, turn 39
  • 40. Compost Troubleshooting Pests: raccoons, rats, insects • Presence of meat scraps or fatty food waste, rotten odors • Remove meats and fatty foods, cover with sawdust or leaves, turn the pile • Compost in an animal-proof bin – Covered bin, trash can bin, cone bin, or barrel bin – Wire mesh sides and floor (1/4 – 1/2 in openings) • Use worm composting (vermicomposting) for food scraps 40
  • 41. Benefits of compost Promotes soil health • Supplies organic matter to soil • Attracts earthworms • Stimulates beneficial soil microorganisms • Increases soil water holding capacity • Increases soil nutrient retention 41
  • 42. Benefits of compost Promotes soil health •Improves soil tilth and friability •Improves soil drainage •Loosens heavy clay soils •Suppresses soil-borne plant pathogens (diseases) 42
  • 43. Benefits of compost Plant nutrients Compost is not a fertilizer, but does contain plant nutrients • Nitrogen and phosphorus are mostly in organic forms – Released slowly to plants – Not readily leached from the topsoil • Compost contains many trace nutrients that are essential for plant growth 43
  • 44. Using finished compost • Soil amendment – Be sure that compost is mature, has an earthy smell (no ammonia or rotten smell), looks dark and crumbly with no recognizable feedstock – Compost improves soil health when mixed in the top 4 to 6 inches (work in no more than a 2” layer of compost) • Will improve water and nutrient retention of sandy soils • Will loosen compacted clay soils and make them more friable 44
  • 45. Using finished compost • Surface mulch in the garden/landscape – Maximum 3” depth – Start 3-4” from trunk – Extend out to dripline • Mulch provides – Protection from temp extremes – Slows moisture loss from soil – Provides some slow release nutrients 45
  • 46. Using finished compost • Lawn topdressing – Be sure compost is very mature to avoid harming the lawn – Use fine (screened) compost, ¼” depth raked over lawn – Best if lawn is cored before applying compost – Retains moisture, supplies slow release nutrients, prevents soil compaction • Potting mix – Compost must be very mature to avoid injury to plants – Use fine textured compost – Mix no more than 1/3 compost by volume 46
  • 47. Presentation by Rick Stehouwer, Associate Professor and Extension Specialist Toni Bilik, State Master Gardener Coordinator Tom Becker, York County Cooperative Extension George Hurd, Franklin County Cooperative Extension Greg Burns, Elk County Cooperative Extension Earle Robbins, Tioga County Cooperative Extension Jim Cowden, Warren County Cooperative Extension Kathleen Geist, Montgomery County Cooperative Extension Patti Peck-Olenick, PA DEP Composting Coordinator 47
  • 48. Manure Management Workshops • March 18th and April 8th • 9AM – 1PM • @ Curwensville Community Center • Please register by talking to us today or calling 765-2629 • Refreshments and food will be provided • For anyone that produces or uses manure or has more than 5,000 sq ft of tillage (Ag E&S Plan) 48
  • 50. Materials Needed 55 Gallon Barrel 5 foot metal pole/fencepost Treated 4 - 2x4s 4ft long 2 - 4x4s 4ft long Handle/Rope 50
  • 51. Materials Needed (cont.) 51 Furring strips 3 – 10” 2 – 3” 2 Corner Brackets 1x6x12” piece of Hardwood for mixing paddle Hinges Hasp Lock 16 - 3” screws
  • 52. Recommended Tools Drill Jigsaw Circular Saw Hole Saw Hammer Measuring tape Framing square Flexible ruler ¾” and 1” Drill Bits 52
  • 53. Drill Holes in barrel for Post • Find the center of the barrel on each end and mark it • Drill a hole slightly larger than the diameter of your metal pole centered on each mark 53 Step 1:
  • 54. Drill Aeration Holes in Barrel • Drill 15-20 holes with a 1 inch bit on each side of the barrel • Should have 30-40 holes for aeration when finished 54 Step 2:
  • 55. Attach mixing paddle • Inside the barrel screw the corner brackets into the plastic • To attach paddle to the barrel screws will have to go trough barrel into (1) 10” furring stripe on the outside of barrel. 55 • Attach mixing paddle to corner brackets using screws Step 3:
  • 56. Drill Holes in 4x4 for post • Measure 6” down on both 4x4 posts, and mark the center of each post • On the mark drill a hole slightly larger than the diameter of your metal pole (do this on both 4x4s) 56 Step 4:
  • 57. Assemble Stand • Stand 4x4s up with holes at the top and place a 2x4 on each side • Use screws to secure 2x4s to the 4x4s 57 Step 5:
  • 58. Assemble Stand Part 2 • Find the middle of the remaining 2x4s and center them on the end of the 4x4 perpendicular to the other 2x4s • Place one screw into each of the 2x4 ends and one into the 4x4 • Make sure you don’t hit the screws going the other direction 58 Step 5:
  • 59. Place barrel on stand • Slide post through holes on barrel • Put one end of post through the 4x4, slide post through until the other end will slide into the other 4x4 59 Step 6:
  • 60. Drill Holes to cut out door • Measure and draw a 12” x 12” section for the door • Drill a small hole in each corner for the jigsaw to get started • Start the jigsaw in each corner and cut out the door 60 Step 7:
  • 61. Attach door with hinges • Drill a hole through the plastic on your marks 61 • Hold the hinges up to the door and mark where the screws will go Step 8:
  • 62. Attach door with hinges (cont.) • Repeat process to attach door to barrel 62 • Holding (1) 10” furring strip underneath the holes attach the hinge with the screws provided Step 8:
  • 63. Attach Hasp Lock • Mark drill holes on the handle side • Drill pilot holes as before • Holding (1) 3” furring strip underneath the holes attach the top part of the hasp with the screws provided • Repeat for the latch on the barrel 63 Step 9:
  • 64. Attach Handle • Drill holes through door • Thread rope through holes • Tie a knot in both ends of the rope to achieve a handle of your desired length 64 • Completed door with handle and hasp attached Step 10:
  • 65. Enjoy your finished rotating composting barrel 65
  • 66. Thank you to our Sponsors! •Department of Environmental Protection Environmental Education Grants Program •Bee Kind Winery • Hoyt Plumbing and Heating 66