apparel manufacturing technology | fashion technology news

4 AO India | January 2024
CONTENTS
Indian menswear market is one of the fastest-growing segments of the
apparel industry
Experts explore fashion supply chain risks and propose solutions to tackle
them effectively
The largest American retailers are attempting to speed up deliveries
INDUSTRY VERDICT
12 I How was this recent festival/wedding season
for you, and looking forward, how do you see the
upcoming fourth quarter? Have you observed any
industry changes and based on those, what is your
plan going forward?
RETAIL RIGHT//
//NATIONAL
14 I Indian Menswear: Fashion’s Booming Frontier
RETAIL RIGHT//
// NATIONAL NEWS
18 I Online Indian Brands Recognise Offline Potential
RETAIL RIGHT//
//INTERNATIONAL
20 I Fast And Furious: Retailers Racing
To Boost Deliveries
RETAIL RIGHT//
// INTERNATIONAL NEWS
24 I Apparel Retailers To Expand Businesses
YEAR-IN-REVIEW//
// 2023
34 I Top 10 Themes That Defined Fashion
Industry In 2023
EXPERT SPEAKS
42 I Mastering Store Profitability
BUYING & SOURCING
44 I Modern Approaches To Mitigate Risk In
Apparel Sourcing
p14
p20
p44
26
COVER STORY
10 Trends Set To Define
The Fashion Sector In 2024

November 2023 | AO India 5
January 2024 | AO India 5

CONTENTS
MANUFACTURING
48 I Digitalisation Of Sewing Floor:
The Current Tech Map
MANUFACTURING//
//NEWS
50 I Stalwarts Of Indian Apparel Export Industry
Recognised With AEPC Awards
SUSTAINABILITY
52 I Sustainability Legislation: How Should
The Fashion Industry Respond?
SUSTAINABILITY//
//NEWS
56 I Indian Apparel Exporters Increasing Thrust
On Sustainability
TRENDS IN FOCUS//
//RUNWAYS
58 I Cultural Signals, Consumer Sentiments And Key
Trends For Fall/Winter 2025
FASHION BUSINESS
63 I Trends Set To Have An Impact On The Future
Of Fashion In The Age Of Artificial Intelligence
DESIGNERS & LABELS
68 I Couture With A Cause: Vaishali S’ Love Letter
To Indian Craftsmanship
START-UPS
74 I Investor Enthusiasm Soars As Fashion Start-Ups
Witness Rapid Funding Influx
RESOURCE CENTRE
76 I Embroidery: Focus On Advanced Technology
And Innovation In Threads Pushing Demand
TRADE STATISTICS
80 I US Apparel Imports (January-October 2023):
Imports Continue To Fall Even In October ’23!
p68
Vaishali S offers a diverse range of products in both haute couture and
ready-to-wear segments
Snitch has secured Rs. 110 crore in Series A funding
Trends in democratisation, ethics and innovation play an integral role in
shaping the AI trajectory in 2024
Fall/Winter 2025 trends focus on the ever-evolving consumer minset with
distinct shifts being observed in their sentiments as well as cultural signals
p59
p63
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A P P A R E L O N L I N E

EDITOR’S NOTE
US economic growth was 2.40 per cent in 2023 which is
predicted to be 1.5 per cent in 2024 due to international
supply chain constraints that have negatively impacted
trade. However, as I speak to the industry and analyse
the global retail landscape, my attention constantly shifts
towards the challenges (and opportunities) thrown by the
3Is – Inflation, Interest rates and Inventory.
Undoubtedly, the USA and Europe are grappling with
significant challenges posed by inflationary pressures.
The USA, in particular, experienced an 8 per cent
inflation rate in 2022, marking the highest recorded
figure in the nation’s history, at least since the year 2000.
Projections suggest a decrease in this inflation rate to
2.30 per cent by 2024 and a further decline to 2 per
cent by 2028. Concurrently, alongside inflation, there’s a
downward trend in interest rates, coupled with a surge in
demand for inventories in retail stores.
Amidst these challenges and opportunities, Indian
apparel manufacturers have an opportunity to target
US retailers. This includes omnichannel retail format,
pure-play online retailers and within bricks-and-mortar
stores (B&M), departmental stores are expected to do
well. These stores have experienced a surge in foot traffic
during the holiday season, a trend anticipated to persist
and escalate through 2024. As the economic scene in the
USA aims for recovery, consumers will remain cautious
about their expenditures, gravitating toward stores that
offer affordability or the thrill of finding hidden gems,
or both.
Manufacturers must keep an eye on retail formats that
recognise the potential for significant performance
enhancement through the smart utilisation of AI. These
formats are likely to emerge as stronger contenders in
the market.
Manufacturers should also pay attention to retailers who
are operating under omnichannel format and are heavily
investing in digital platforms to generate additional
revenue streams, particularly, retailers who are keen on
cultivating retail media networks (RMNs), which serve
as a digital counterpart to in-store advertisements. These
networks enable the sale of advertising space on websites
and apps to brands, amplifying consumer awareness and
capturing swift sales.
Retailers are keenly aware that under the challenging
economic conditions and amidst evolving dynamics
with manufacturers, innovation in formats should drive
the creation of fresh revenue streams. I believe leasing
physical space to brands will play a pivotal role. This
space could accommodate smart displays, kiosks and
elevated retail encounters. These opportunities are on the
radar not only for traditional bricks-and-mortar stores
but also for major omnichannel players.
Coming to this month’s edition, my team painstakingly
conducted in-depth research to identify the key trends
that are projected to reshape industry practices in 2024.
Expectations point towards the dominance of trends
such as the bricks-and-mortar retail format, sustainable
fashion buying, the emergence of Gen Z and Gen
Alpha brands, adaptive clothing and the integration of
smart textiles within the fashion industry during the
upcoming year.
Alongside, the first issue of 2024 also presents
insightful stories under regular columns – RRI, RRN,
Sustainability, Fashion Business, Manufacturing, Expert
Speaks, Data and so on.
I and Team Apparel Online India wish you all a very
happy new year 2024. Let’s continue to support the
apparel industry collaboratively!
FROMTHE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK…
Navigating the 2024
Retail Landscape: Challenges
and Opportunities unveiled
Deepak Mohindra
Editor-in-Chief
Deepak Mohindra
e-mail me at dmohindra@apparelresources.com

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INDUSTRY VERDICT
Festivals and weddings, the biggest shopping seasons, are the most awaited for by the Indian apparel retail industry.
How was this recent season for you, and looking forward, how do you see the upcoming fourth quarter which has
weddings and few of the festivals on cards?
Have you observed something interesting, different or new in the recently concluded season? Based on your
observations, what strategies do you plan to incorporate for the future?
Q&A
Vinay Chatlani
Co-founder and CEO, Soch Apparels Pvt. Ltd.
While consumer spending in the apparel
space has been relatively sluggish this
year, we have seen a decent uptake in
performance since September. This
trend further continued in October and
November, where we continued to see
growth in sales over the last year. While
there still seems to be some amount of
rebound necessary, Q3 so far has been
promising. We saw record sales in many
stores during the festive season and
hope for the same to continue in the
next few months, especially with our
EOSS starting soon.
Being a brand that focuses on
eveningwear/occasionwear, we hope to
see a positive impact on Q4 due to the
large number of wedding and festival
dates emerging.
Our Q1 being a slow demand period,
saw a larger percentage of our sales
come from existing consumers. We
believe that when discretionary
spending is down, most people tend to
shop at stores/brands they are most
familiar with.
However, over the last few months,
we have been working closely with
complimentary brands to cross-
promote and so far have seen very
encouraging results. We are observing
a good influx of new customers walking
into our stores.
Rahul Bhalla
CEO and Co-Founder of Latin Quarters
This year, the fourth quarter
encompassing the holiday season tends
to see increased consumer spending,
which often benefits retail businesses
across various sectors. For women’s
westernwear, this period might witness
higher sales as customers tend to shop
a lot for gifting during Christmas and
New Year, tend to go to parties for
which people require partywear and
shop for other events associated with
the festive season.
This year, the winter season has arrived
late than usual. Even post-Diwali,
the weather was not cold enough for
customers to start investing in proper
winterwear. Due to this seasonal delay,
the ‘shopping season’ has also been
postponed. As a result, there has been
a behavioural change for winter clothing
amongst customers.
While the season started slow, it has
picked up pace in terms of overall sales
as we progressed into December, and
with the year-end season sale upon us,
we at Latin Quarters have decided to
adopt newer strategies to leverage our
winter stock and reach a wider range
of customers, especially in Tier-2 and
Tier-3 cities. The sale season is when
we have observed that customers shop
for classics/all-time hit pieces from a
collection that were earlier priced at a
higher range.
Surbhi Pansari
Designer and Founder of Luxe Menswear
Brand, ‘Surbhi Pansari’
With the changing fashion industry
and trends, it’s always a beautiful
journey to curate outfits according to
the season. It was a major success and
Chess and Chequers collection along
with the other signature pieces have
been effortlessly loved by our clients.
The feedback has been great. The

INDUSTRY VERDICT
S E N D Y O U R CO M M E N T S
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colour tones, designs, cuts, textures,
embellishments and embroideries
have been perfectly blended with
the target audience. This is the peak
season time which prevails till March
end or April beginning. So, we are
expecting a rush, according to our
previous market analysis. Also, it is
winter and soon we are launching a
capsule collection of winter blazer
looks. So this collection is the perfect
solution for upcoming events. There
is already a visible movement in the
blazer and tuxedo section and also
for sherwanis and Indo-western. Basic
kurta pajama will again have their own
importance for more subtle events,
morning rituals and festivities.
People in the fashion industry and
apparel businesses have openly
welcomed the changing trends in the
men’s fashion industry. The designs
have evolved from heavy traditional
embroidery to more contemporary
cuts, patterns, and motifs. The buying
patterns have also increased and thus
men’s fashion gets a lot more creative
space to get executed. They are opting
for various outfits for various occasions.
They are experimenting potentially with
their looks and styling. This has also
helped me as a menswear designer to
get a broader canvas for creativity.
Ashmeer Sayyed
Chief Retail Officer, DaMENSCH
Our business is a growing one and
we started a few years back, so it has
grown month-on-month rather than at a
quarterly rate. The previous quarter has
been good for us in the innerwear and
accessories business, and we expect
the coming quarter to be promising also,
with the current quarter ending on the
31st of December. This is primarily a
good business season for everyone and
since we are mainly into essentials and
innerwear, for us it tends to be more of
a constant business rather than business
coming in quarterly.
For the marriage and festive season,
when the market is, of course, up for
everyone in the industry, due to a lot of
shopping happening, it will also have a
positive effect on the ancillary or we can
say, the accessories business in which
innerwear and outerwear happen to
fall in. Being in the premium segment,
there has been a lot of traction and
we’ve opened quite a few stores in
Tier-1 cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Pune,
Hyderabad and Bengaluru, with a lot
of spend happening in the season. For
us, it is kind of a rub-off from the main
line business. We have a multi-pronged
strategy with one having to do with
increasing the assortment we have, so
within innerwear, we go deeper because
we are still focused on men’s innerwear.
Essentials and loungewear or outerwear,
as mentioned, will have a line that will be
for modern trade and general trade as
well from an offline perspective while
we are already online. The second
would be to expand in the spaces we
already are in, like in cities for EBOs
and for general trade, mom and pop
stores. We are also looking to diversify
into many more states where our
presence is already there.
Akhil Jain
Executive Director, Jain Amar
This recent festival and wedding season
has been a vibrant period for us. We’ve
seen an enthusiastic response from our
customers, who are increasingly looking
for unique and personalised apparel.
According to a recent survey, the global
economic outlook in major fashion markets
is predicted to remain unsettled in 2024,
affecting consumer confidence and spending.
GDP growth in the United States stands at 2.4
per cent in 2023, before slowing to 1.5 per
cent in 2024. However, India’s economy is on
track to reach 6.5 per cent growth in the fiscal
year 2024-25 and will hit 7 per cent in 2026.
Given this scenario, what can the Indian
apparel industry do to tap the domestic
market? What, according to you, are the
domestic growth opportunities, segment-wise
or overall? What challenges do you see in
trying to expand in the domestic space?
NEXT INDUSTRY
VERDICT QUESTIONS
Our collections, which emphasise
contemporary designs with an elegant
flair, have received an overwhelmingly
positive response, suggesting a growing
appetite for fashion that is both stylish
and sophisticated.
Looking ahead to the upcoming fourth
quarter, which includes more weddings
and festivals, we’re optimistic. We
anticipate a continued trend toward
bold and expressive fashion choices.
Our focus will be on offering an eclectic
mix of styles that cater to this evolving
consumer taste. By blending designs
with innovative elements, we aim to
provide a fresh and exciting shopping
experience for our customers during
these festive occasions.
In the last season, we noticed a
shift towards more experiential and
personalised shopping experiences.
Customers are seeking not just apparel
but a story that resonates with their
personal style. In response to these
observations, our future strategy will
include a greater focus on interactive
and personalised customer experiences.
We plan to introduce more versatile
and multi-functional pieces that align
with the desire for both style and
utility. Additionally, we’re looking at
enhancing our online presence to
offer a more seamless and engaging
shopping experience.

The Indian menswear market is one
of the fastest growing segments in the
apparel industry. It’s valued at US $ 30
billion in 2023 and is projected to reach
US $ 34.50 billion in 2027.
Previously, the men’s fashion domain was
primarily shaped by established brands
affiliated with leading fashion houses.
Arvind Limited’s USPA, Arrow NY and
Flying Machine; Aditya Birla Fashion
and Retail Ltd.’s Louis Philippe, Allen
Solly and Van Heusen are a few such
examples while Raymond held sway over
both formal and casual attire. Denim
brands like Wrangler, Levi’s, Pepe Jeans,
Lee, Spykar and Diesel have also carved a
niche for themselves in the Indian market.
However, the landscape has transformed
with the emergence of brands like
Kaapus, Bombay Shirt Company,
Nicobar, Rare Rabbit, Urban Monkey,
Andamen, Doodlage, Son Of A
Noble and more.These brands have
revolutionised the scene by introducing
resortwear, incorporating floral prints,
personalised apparel and gender-neutral
silhouettes. Social media has played a
pivotal role in expanding the horizons
of men’s fashion, with many brands
leveraging this trend.The potential
within this subset of menswear has
been further affirmed by reports of Tata
Capital looking to purchase a roughly
13 per cent stake in premium domestic
fashion brand Rare Rabbit at a valuation
of US $ 300 million.
The new-generation brands have
experienced rapid growth in terms of
funding, revenue and omnichannel
expansion. For instance, Shark Tank-
fame D2C brand Snitch has raised Rs
110 crore in a funding round led by
SWC Global and IvyCap Ventures.
Men’s innerwear and lifestyle brand
XYXX has raised Rs 110 crore (US $
13.5 million) in fresh funding led by
Amazon Smbhav Venture Fund. Fashion
and lifestyle start-up Absolute Brands
and Retail raised US $ 2.5 million
(approximately Rs.21 crore) in a seed
round of funding. Virgio, founded by
former Myntra Chief Executive Amar
Nagaram, secured US $ 35 million
within a few months of its inception,
reaching a valuation of nearly US $ 160
million. DaMENSCH, a premium
men’s lifestyle brand, has raised US $
16.4 million (Rs 122.5 crore) in a Series
B fundraising led by A91 Partners. Gen
Z fashion discovery start-up Stumbl has
raised US $ 1.6 million.
There’s also been a rise in loungewear
labels such as Bonkers Corner and
Burger Bae, catering to their audience
by focusing on gender-neutral clothing.
Alongside, brands like BEWAKOOF®,
The Souled Store and Zudio have
entered the Indian market, presenting
styles and designs that particularly
RETAIL RIGHT/
/NATIONAL
INDIAN
MENSWEAR:
FASHION’S BOOMING
FRONTIER
“Men seek variety beyond
the routine five shirts they
often rotate. Today, men
are more adventurous and
explorative in their fashion
choices.”
Chetan Siyal
Founding Member and
CMO, Snitch

resonate with millennials and
Gen Z men.
Uniqlo, with its 13 stores in India, has
established itself in the segment with
its basic lifewear collections, broadening
the array of options available to
consumers. Meanwhile, brands such as
Zara, H&M and Marks and Spencer are
enhancing their omnichannel presence
to extend their reach even further.
Reasons for growth
Men have been prioritising their
appearance for quite some time now,
leading to expanded wardrobe choices.
While established brands consistently
perform well, the rise of e-commerce
and social media has resulted in the
explosion of numerous start-ups. Each
of these start-ups boast a unique USP,
whether it’s sustainability, streetwear,
casual style, unique patterns and
beyond. This shift has notably reduced
costs, eliminating the need for physical
retail space expenses and lowering
advertising expenses through targeted
approaches on various social media
platforms. “The rise in disposable
income, the advent of social media
and increased exposure to global
fashion trends has highlighted fashion
consciousness among Indian men,”
said Ravi Gupta, Creative Director of
menswear brand Gargee Designer’s.
Experts predict that there will be a lot
of brands which will surface across the
country, including in Tier-2 and Tier-3
cities catering to affordable and distinct
fashion for Gen Z customers.
As per Chetan Siyal, Founding Member
and CMO, Snitch, “Men seek variety
beyond the routine five shirts they often
rotate. Today, men are more adventurous
and explorative in their fashion choices.”
Giving his two cents on the rise of
menswear, Sartaj Singh Mehta, Senior
Director of Design and Product at
Pepe Jeans, remarked, “Men desire to
express their individuality distinctly,
moving away from being perceived as
a mere component of a larger family
where women is the leading fashionista,
leaving men in a more simplistic attire
behind them. Presently, men aspire to
stand on equal ground when it comes
to their appearance and how they are
perceived as an individual personality.”
Tier-2, Tier-3 cities and
Indian fashion
The growth in fashion within Tier-2
cities is fuelled by the expansion of
organised retail and the emergence
of shopping malls. According to a
Technopak study, there has been 35
per cent increase in the number of
shopping malls in these cities over the
last three years. This growth in modern
retail spaces has provided an excellent
opportunity for fashion brands to deeply
penetrate these markets.
“The ongoing financial year witnessed
the inauguration of 69 exclusive retail
stores across 20 states, reinforcing our
commitment to penetrate deeper into
Tier-2 and Tier-3 cities. Currently
present over 250 cities, our journey to
provide a futuristic retail experience
continues. Looking ahead, we are
poised to aggressively expand, targeting
a revenue of Rs 1,000 crore in the
coming years. With plans to invest
around Rs.25-30 crore and opening
85 outlets in 2023, our journey
continues into Tier-2, Tier-3, Tier-4
towns,” said Deepak Bansal, Director,
Cantabil Retail India Ltd., which
reached a significant milestone with
the inauguration of its 500th store in
Ayodhya recently.
Furthermore, in a move towards
international outreach, the company
entered global markets with the
introduction of its First Exclusive Brand
Outlet (EBO) in Nepal.
Simultaneously, e-commerce has played
a pivotal role in connecting fashion
brands with consumers in Tier-2 cities.
The rise of online shopping platforms,
coupled with increased smartphone
RETAIL RIGHT/
/NATIONAL
“Presently, men aspire to
stand on equal ground
when it comes to their
appearance and how
they are perceived as an
individual personality.”
Sartaj Singh Mehta
Senior Director of Design and
Product at Pepe Jeans

and internet accessibility, has granted
fashion-conscious men in these cities
access to a diverse range of trendy
clothing and accessories. As per a report
by RedSeer Consulting, the online fashion
market in Tier-2 cities was expected to
achieve a market value of US $ 7 billion
to US $ 9 billion by 2023.
In fact the fashion choices of consumers
in Tier-2 cities are rapidly evolving.
Although traditional Indian attire
remains appealing, there’s a notable surge
in the demand for Westernwear, fusion,
fashion and contemporary styles.This
change in tastes has fostered a flourishing
market for designers and brands.
“The men in Tier-2 and Tier-3 cities are
more open to trying new fashion. The
hesitancy is not there,” said Himanshu
Ratnakar, Assistant General Manager,
Sales and Marketing, Woodland, which
sells latest in fashion, shoes, jackets,
T-shirts, boots and outdoor equipment.
Fashion events are booming in Tier-2
cities, spotlighting local talent and offering
a stage for emerging designers. Fashion
weeks and exhibitions have emerged
as significant highlights in these cities,
drawing attention from local and national
audiences.This rise in fashion-centric
events has significantly driven the growth
of the fashion industry in Tier-2 cities.
The rise of custom-fit
clothing
Recently, India’s menswear industry has
shifted gears from off-the-rack fashion
to personalised clothing. The demand
for custom-fit apparel is surging as
more men, accustomed to high-end or
luxury readymade clothes, seek perfectly
tailored shirts and pants.
Luxury labels like Armani, Canali,
Versace, Zegna and Cadini, along with
premium brands such as Louis Philippe
and Raymond, offer made-to-measure
services in India. Additionally, upscale
ventures like Creyate by Arvind Group
are now tapping into this rising demand
for tailored clothing amongst Indian men.
Even Raymond, as part of its omnichannel
approach, allows customers to customise
clothing online with a made-to-measure
fit.The fabric and fashion retailer has
a dedicated website for its tailoring
service that allows customers to follow
a streamlined four-step process to order
personalised clothing.
This trend signals a significant
market expansion opportunity, with a
resurgence in custom-fit fashion and
increased competition anticipated in the
coming years.
Pragati Srivastava, Brand Head of
Park Avenue, Parx, and Accessories,
emphasised the advantage of specialising
in a specific niche for long-term customer
loyalty. She highlighted, “Raymond’s
legacy in fabrics has empowered us to
concentrate on menswear extensively.
Brands with a strong foothold in
menswear can capitalise on customer
loyalty and referrals, cementing their
market position. India’s expansive and
evolving menswear market caters to
diverse clothing needs across occasions
and preferences.”
Future trends and
growth areas
“For future, our focus revolves around
seasonless fashion,” stated Chetan
adding, “While the men’s category
often adheres to seasonal collections
like summer, winter, autumn or spring,
our goal is to introduce versatile
apparel suitable for year-round wear.
Winterwear, for instance, isn’t restricted
to heavy garments for specific months;
our designs will be adaptable for use
throughout the year. The focus will be
on utilising lighter, skin-friendly fabrics,
enabling these clothes to transcend
seasonal limitations.”
Bidyut Bhanjdeo, Chief Business
Officer, Ethnix by Raymond,
highlighted a broader trend in menswear
stating, “Over the past few years, there’s
been a significant rise in casualwear.
Apart from bankers, most corporate
environments now embrace semi-casual
attire or even denim in the office.
The lines between formalwear and
casualwear are blurring, making clothes
suitable for various occasions, from
parties to workplaces.”
“People now buy clothing specifically
for occasions,” Bhanjdeo continued.
“Whether it’s a holiday, beach outing,
or even an airport look emphasising
travel comfort, clothing choices are
increasingly driven by the occasion.
The prominence of athleisure is
due to people’s focus on fitness and
comfort-driven attire. Similarly, Indian
ethnicwear is gaining popularity for
celebratory events.”
“The rise in disposable
income, the advent of
social media and increased
exposure to global fashion
trends has highlighted
fashion consciousness
among Indian men.”
Ravi Gupta
Creative Director of menswear
brand Gargee Designer’s
“Over the past few years,
there’s been a significant
rise in casualwear. The lines
between formalwear and
casualwear are blurring,
making clothes suitable
for various occasions, from
parties to workplaces.”
Bidyut Bhanjdeo
Chief Business Officer, Ethnix
by Raymond
RETAIL RIGHT/
/NATIONAL

RETAIL RIGHT/
/NATIONAL NEWS
Online Indian apparel
brands are looking at offline
expansion and are targeting
traditional retail options to
leverage the market.
CultFit’s direct-to-consumer
(D2C) branch, CultSport,
specialising in sportswear,
fitness apparel and equipment,
is shifting focus to offline
retail, outlining its strategy
to inaugurate an exclusive
brand outlet each month. In
an interview, Shamik Sharma,
CultSport’s Business Head,
highlighted the company’s
ambitious plans to match its
600 existing fitness centres
across India with a similar
number of offline stores within
three years.
Recognising the potential for
numerous Exclusive Brand
Outlets (EBOs) in the coming
years, Shamik indicated the
company’s initiation of one
brand outlet per month over
the forthcoming months,
following the recent launch of
its first store in Bengaluru.
Commencing online sales in
2019 through the Cult app,
CultSport expanded its reach
across prominent marketplaces
like Myntra, Flipkart and
Amazon.Transitioning to
an omnichannel approach, it
entered multi-brand outlets
offline. Shamik asserted a 70
per cent growth in online sales
for the brand last year.
In FY ’22, the sales of
sports apparel and related
merchandise generated
revenue of Rs. 12 crore for the
company’s overall business.
Discussing their expansion
strategy, Shamik revealed plans
to gradually venture into newer
categories. While currently
offering footwear, apparel,
cycles and cardio equipment,
CultSport intends to step
into domains like outdoor
hiking products, swimwear,
accessories and sporting
goods, positioning itself in
direct competition with global
retailers like Decathlon in the
Indian market.
Similarly, Uptownie, a
homegrown womenswear
brand, launched in 2015 with
an initial investment of Rs. 80
lakh, aims to double its revenue
to Rs. 60 crore by the fiscal
year-end, according to Shivani
Agarwal, Co-founder and
CMO of the company.
The brand, self-funded
from inception, targets an
EBITDA of 18 per cent
for this fiscal year, similar
to the previous year, having
achieved a revenue of Rs.
30 crore in the preceding
fiscal. Operating across 11
marketplaces and a D2C
website, it’s planning an
offline retail presence by the
fiscal year 2024-25.
With an average order value of
Rs. 1,800, Uptownie intends
to elevate it to Rs. 2,000
while maintaining a customer
acquisition cost (CAC) ranging
between Rs. 500-600.
“At present, 70 per cent of
our revenue is contributed
by marketplaces and the
remaining 30 per cent comes
from the D2C channel,
however, this financial year, we
are aiming 45 per cent of our
revenue from the marketplaces
and the remaining 55 per cent
from our D2C as our D2C
channel has grown 6x since
the last year,” Shivani stated.
The plan is to set up shop-in-
shops at major retail venues
such as Central, Shoppers
Stop and Lifestyle in the
next year, with the aim of
introducing our EBOs by
the year’s end, she further
elaborated.
Uptownie plans to establish
its EBOs in cities such as
Kolkata, Bengaluru, Guwahati
and Mumbai, each store
spanning 500 sq.ft. - 600 sq.ft.
To facilitate its expansion
into offline retail, the brand
intends to raise Rs. 25 crore
at a valuation of Rs. 250 crore,
considering a 10 per cent
equity dilution.
Gen Z-focused
fashion tech start-
up Newme has
inaugurated its
premier flagship
store in Mumbai,
marking its entry
into the city,
the company
announced in a
press release.
Air India, has
unveiled its much
anticipated,
brand-new
collection of
uniforms for
cabin and cockpit
crew, designed by
celebrity designer
Manish Malhotra.
A report by
Motilal Oswal
Financial Services
says that value
fashion is the
fastest growing
segment in the
apparel sector.
Organised value
apparel retail
is expected to
outperform the
overall value
category and post
about 13 per cent
CAGR over CY
’20-25.
Fashion brand
Snitch, of Shark
Tank fame,
partners with
EcoReturns
to reduce and
automate its
returns using
generative AI.
SNIPS
Online Indian brands recognise offline potential

RETAIL RIGHT/
/NATIONAL NEWS
With online and D2C brands
contemplating increasing their
presence in traditional retail,
established brands are also
increasing their EBO counts.
Reliance Retail is now
amplifying the distribution
of clothing and fashion
merchandise to third-party
stores, as per reports.This
move involves curating an
exclusive portfolio of branded
products tailored to the
business-to-business segment.
According to two senior
industry executives familiar
with the initiative, Reliance
Retail has already introduced
over 50 exclusive brands and
plans to triple this number in
the near future. This expansion
aims to propel
the fashion business beyond
its existing stores, tapping
into significantly greater
growth prospects.
The list of launched brands
includes Silkfeet and
Jivers in footwear, Xlerate
in athleisure, Feet Up in
women’s footwear, Dhuni
by Avaasa in Indianwear,
Riva in womenswear, John
Player Select in menswear,
Kidlyboo in kidswear and
Altair in T-shirts.
Reliance Retail will distribute
these brands across diverse
markets, including rural
areas, utilising its established
network of third-party
stores within the apparel
distribution sphere.The
company is piloting this
venture under the Ajio
Business banner and plans to
scale it up by the forthcoming
Spring/Summer season.
Reliance is also expanding its
Ajio Business by distributing
renowned apparel and fashion
brands such as Campus,
Khadim’s, Liberty, Biba,
Globaldesi, Lotto and Adidas.
Additionally, Cantabil Retail
India Limited, has opened its
500th store in Ayodhya, Uttar
Pradesh becoming one of the
select few apparel retailers
with an achievement of having
500 EBOs across the nation.
In 2023-24, Cantabil opened
69 new exclusive retail stores,
spanning across 14 different
states.This further aligns
with the company’s ongoing
commitment to delve deeper
into Tier-2 and -3 cities,
delivering a futuristic and
rejuvenating retail experience
for customers. Currently,
Cantabil’s presence is in 20
states and more than 250
cities across India and it plans
to open more stores in the
coming months.
Sharing his thoughts on
achieving this significant
milestone, Deepak Bansal,
Director of the company,
expressed, “Reaching the
milestone of our 500th store
in India is a moment of great
pride for the brand. We are
not only thrilled about this
achievement, but also excited
about the prospects it opens
for us all over the country.”
The brand, established in
2000, is also eagerly looking
forward to future expansion
and entering the international
market with the opening of
first-ever store in Nepal.
eBay, a global
e-commerce player,
has launched a
seller guide to help
Indian sellers export
their products to
global markets.
Aditya Birla
Fashion and Retail
Limited (ABFRL),
India’s leading
fashion company,
has announced
a partnership
with Christian
Louboutin, one of
the world’s most
famous shoe
designers known
for his high-end
footwear and
iconic soles.
Miraggio, the
fashion accessories
brand offering
women’s handbags,
has raised Rs. 10
crore (US $ 1.2
million) in a pre-
series A round.
Bengaluru-based
men's fashion
label Snitch has
unveiled its latest
Sukajan collection,
drawing
inspiration from
Japanese culture.
Apparel Group India
has announced
the opening of
two new Victoria
Secret’s stores
in South India to
cater to consumers’
growing demand.
SNIPS
Established retail brands increasing apparel
market share
Reliance is
expanding its
Ajio Business
by distributing
renowned
apparel and
fashion brands
such as Campus,
Khadim’s, Liberty,
Biba, Globaldesi,
Lotto and Adidas.

In a competitive market where
customers swear by companies having
robust delivery services and systems,
it pays to be everywhere so that
delivery speeds and costs are reduced.
The largest American retailers are
attempting to speed up deliveries in
order to satisfy customers who are
accustomed to receiving their orders
more quickly. Retail analysts believe
that Walmart’s and Target’s decision
to fully commit to the shipping wars
will give them a competitive advantage
against Chinese-founded low-cost
retailers SHEIN and Temu along
with behemoth Amazon. Target
and Walmart are investing to close
the delivery speed difference with
Amazon, which continues to be the
leader in speed and has established the
benchmark for quick shipping.
Amazon leading the
delivery brigade
Amazon’s new distribution plan,
which splits the nation into eight
zones and mostly sends things
from warehouses in those areas,
has resulted in packages reaching
Prime subscribers’ doors even faster
this year. According to Amazon,
the goal is to reduce the number of
touchpoints and the length of travel
for shipments in order to speed
up delivery while simultaneously
lowering expenses. The massive
FAST AND FURIOUS:
RETAILERS RACING TO
BOOST DELIVERIES
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In an attempt to process
more goods and
deliver them to clients
more quickly, Walmart
announced in November
that it would be adding 40
so-called parcel stations to
stores in nine states by the
end of the year.

RETAIL RIGHT/
/INTERNATIONAL
online retailer with its headquarters
in Seattle processed orders from
warehouses all throughout the nation.
It reported that around 76 per cent
of client orders were being fulfilled
locally, up from 62 per cent before to
the modification.
“We remain on pace to deliver the
fastest for Prime customers in our
29-year history,” Amazon CEO
Andy Jassy said in October during an
earnings call with analysts.
Executives at the company have
observed that Amazon’s extension of
same-day delivery, which was initially
made available only to Prime members
in 2015 for free two-day shipping and
other benefits, is also contributing to
faster shipping. Smaller warehouses
in urban areas that primarily hold the
top 100,000 products that customers
seek are known as same-day delivery
sites. There are presently 55 of these
locations across the nation, according
to Sarah Mathew, Vice President
of Delivery Experience at Amazon.
Additionally, it intends to double that
amount in the upcoming years.
Walmart and Target have been
investing heavily in new facilities,
improved warehouses and other
initiatives they claim will also help save
expenses in an effort to catch up.
Walmart’s initiatives
Walmart uses over 4,000 of its
locations nationwide as online order
fulfilment and delivery hubs. In an
attempt to process more goods and
deliver them to clients more quickly,
the firm announced in November 2023
that it would be adding 40 so-called
parcel stations to stores in nine states
by the end of the year. The biggest
retailer in the country announced that
many of the stations, which function as
little post offices that accept and deliver
items, would be open for business over
the holidays.
In order to speed up delivery to
customers and businesses, the
company is also aiming to automate
and modernise its facilities. Walmart
is taking several approaches to this:
all 42 of its regional distribution
centres, which stock non-perishable
commodities and ship supplies to
restock retailers, are being automated.
In addition, it is constructing four
automated warehouses for perishable
goods. Additionally, it intends to
build over 100 smaller facilities that
process online orders and are linked
to its stores.
Walmart has also opened its first
three completely automated ‘next
generation’ fulfilment centres since
last year. These facilities store a
larger selection of the most popular
items and reduce the number of steps
required to pack and ship an order from
twelve to five. According to the firm,
these hubs and modifications to its
transportation network have allowed
it to ‘dramatically increase’ the volume
of orders it can dispatch the next day.
According to Walmart, the objective
is to increase daily customer order
fulfilment by double and extend next-
and two-day shipping to about 90 per
cent in the US.
Target’s efforts
With US $ 100 million investment
announced earlier this year, Target
plans to improve its warehouses—
called sortation centres—in order to
accelerate shipment. Items for online
orders are sent to sortation centres
from 30 to 40 adjacent Target shops.
A third-party carrier, Shipt, which is
owned by Target sorts, batches and
routes the items for delivery to nearby
neighbourhoods. This year, the volume
of shipments sent by the warehouses
is anticipated to double to above 50
million, with an increasing amount of
things being delivered to clients the
following day. The company, which
now operates 10 locations around
the nation and intends to expand to
at least 15 by early 2026, stated that
it anticipates delivering 9 million
items from sorting centres during the
holiday season.
Despite the fact that Amazon
has significantly more trucks and
warehouse space than Walmart and
With a US $ 100 million
investment announced
earlier this year, Target
plans to improve its
warehouses—called
sortation centres—in order
to accelerate shipment.

Target, analysts pointed out that both
companies leverage their physical
presence to assist in fulfilling online
purchases. They claimed that Target
and Walmart would not be able to
overtake Amazon even if they both
significantly increased the number of
delivery hubs they had.
Last-mile delivery
There is currently a greater demand
for home package delivery than there
was before the pandemic. This has
made it more difficult and costly for
retailers to fulfil orders on schedule,
even if they have to increase delivery
costs. The average general rate was
increased by United States Postal
Service (USPS) by 5.5 per cent, which
included a 6.4 per cent increase in
USPS Retail Ground rates. FedEx
and UPS also raised their average
rates by 6.9 per cent this year, in the
meanwhile. As a result, free delivery
is becoming tougher for online sales
as merchants look for ways to reduce
expenses and boost earnings. The
Wall Street Journal has revealed that
shops have increased the minimum
purchase amount required to qualify
for free delivery. Retail data company
Narvar reports that in 2023, the
amount jumped from US $ 52 in 2019
to US $ 64.
Within the retail sector, same-day
last-mile delivery has grown to be a
separate industry. To begin with, it’s
enormous. The US Bureau of Labour
Statistics estimates that 1.7 million
persons worked as delivery drivers in
the previous year. It is anticipated that
it will increase to 1.9 million by 2031.
Some estimates have the number of
consumers who will spend more and
remain loyal to brands who provide
a great last-mile experience at 75%.
Retailers have had to shell out a
fortune for vehicles, technology and
warehousing investments due to
the competition.
Even Amazon, which developed
its own shipping and warehouse
management systems, continues to
make significant expenditures. The
corporation announced in November
of last year that it already had 1,000
Rivian electric vans (EVs) on the road
and that it had placed an order for
100,000 more by 2030. This represents
an approximate US $ 5 billion spend,
assuming that the US $ 60,000 retail
price of each EV gets discounted.
A sub-industry of logistics providers
has emerged as a result of the pressure
to compete on delivery. These vendors
combine smaller fleets of trucks with
artificial intelligence software for
merchants who lack the financial
resources of the mass merchandisers.
Research from delivery and
fulfilment cloud platform supplier
Bringg indicates that retailers of
all sizes anticipate providing same-
day delivery by 2025 as customers
continue to value last-mile fulfilment
speed and ease.
The supply chain technology provider
conducted a survey with 500 retailers
across the US, UK, Canada, Germany,
France, and Italy to determine the
advantages and disadvantages of their
ability to fulfil customer fulfilment
requests and to evaluate their last-mile
delivery capabilities. They discovered
that the majority need to concentrate
on geographically more focused,
or ‘hyperlocal’, delivery methods,
automate processes and build a more
interconnected fulfilment network.
Investment in the same-day last
mile delivery service is something
that is being looked at industry-
wide since that is what customers
value highly.
RETAIL RIGHT/
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Some estimates have the
number of consumers
who will spend more and
remain loyal to brands
who provide a great
last-mile experience at
75%. Retailers have had
to shell out a fortune for
vehicles, technology, and
warehousing investments
due to the competition.

RETAIL RIGHT/
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Apparel retailers to expand businesses
Apparel retailers have
continued expanding
their businesses in various
regions as a sign of the retail
industry looking at various
regions for opportunities.
Prada is looking to double
its business in key luxury
market China, Chief
Executive Gianfranco
D’Attis said, even as the
country faces slow growth in
luxury demand and significant
economic headwinds.
“We have a lot of ambitions
here in China, to double our
business in the upcoming
mid-term future. And with
that also comes increasing
our investments,” D’Attis told
reporters in Shanghai.
He stated that more
investments will inevitably
result in a significant rise in
the number of stores opening
around the nation, but he
could not provide a specific
timeline for the goal.
At an exclusive event for
Prada’s Pradasphere II
exhibition in Shanghai,
D’Attis, a former executive at
Dior who assumed leadership
of the firm in January, was
giving a speech. This version
of the idea debuted in London
and is the second iteration.
Pradasphere II, on display
at a museum on Shanghai’s
Huangpu River, offers an
in-depth exploration of the
brand’s identity and archives
together with a Prada-themed
cafe and a gift shop housed
in a converted train that is
parked next to the museum.
In November, the Prada
Group revealed a 10 per
cent increase in third-
quarter revenues, citing
robust performance in Asia
and Europe as a means of
offsetting the Americas’
decline. Although D’Attis
expressed optimism that
more Chinese tourists and
shoppers will visit Europe,
he noted that this would not
necessarily have an influence
on domestic sales.
Similarly, British luxury
brand Sunspel is continuing
its expansion in the US with
a new store in San Francisco.
The new Sunspel store is
located at the Marin Country
Mart in San Francisco and
provides the brand’s whole
collection of men’s and
women’s clothing, including
the Riviera Polo Shirt worn
by James Bond and its
classic T-shirt, which is still
manufactured in the brand’s
original UK factory in Long
Eaton, Derbyshire.
The San Francisco location
comes after Sunspel opened
its second New York location
on Madison Avenue earlier
this year.
Commenting on the opening,
Raul Verdicchi, Chief
Executive of Sunspel, said
in a statement, “We are very
excited to announce our
latest opening in the Marin
Country Mart.” James S.
Rosenfield, Owner of the
Marin County Mart, added,
“Sunspel’s look is classic and
the quality is legendary.”
Founded in 1860, Sunspel is a
British luxury brand that has
eight stores in London and
three in the US and is stocked
by leading retailers across the
world and ships to over 200
countries worldwide.
Spanish fashion
retailer Zara is
expanding its service
to sell, repair or
donate second-hand
clothes in several
European countries,
the company said, as
the market for used
apparel grows.
Klarna, a global
payments
network and AI-
driven shopping
assistant, has
partnered with
Zalando, a leading
online fashion and
lifestyle retailer in
Europe, to elevate
the shopping
and payments
experience for
customers across
Southern Europe.
Online retailers
Temu and SHEIN
reportedly draw
millions of visitors
to their websites
but struggle to
convert those visits
to sales. Despite
their popularity, the
two retailers still
lag behind market
leader Amazon in
terms of conversion
rate, as per reports.
Chinese e-commerce
platform Temu
is successfully
challenging the
dominance of
US dollar stores
including industry
leader Dollar General,
as per reports.
SNIPS

RETAIL RIGHT/
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www.apparelresources.com
Apparel brands have made new
appointments to strengthen
their leadership teams and
to move forward in the
competitive marketplace.
Fashion brand Esprit has hired
a new senior executive to lead
its international expansion and
European operations as part of
a turnaround effort.
In November, Konstantinos
Balogiannis joined Esprit,
which is based between
Hong Kong – where it is
listed on the local stock
exchange – Germany and the
USA, as COO/Managing
Director, Europe and Global
Business Development,
as Balogiannis himself
announced on LinkedIn.
“I will concentrate [on]
contributing as much as
possible to [Esprit’s] new
elevated global strategy,”he also
posted on LinkedIn.
Balogiannis had overseen the
company’s wholesale division
for the previous four years
until he joined the German
outdoorgear company Bogner
in 2017. He formerly held a
number of jobs at German
apparel retailer Tom Tailor,
including COO Asia and Head
of international sales, from
2009 until 2017.
Esprit is attempting to remake
itself under the direction of its
CEO,William Pak, by focusing
more on its Californian heritage
and repositioning some of its
items in a more upscale market.
Similarly,Toronto-based
lifestyle brand Roots has
appointed Leslie Golts
as its Chief Marketing
Officer (CMO). Meghan
Roach, President and Chief
Executive Officer of Roots,
expressed confidence in Golts,
highlighting her extensive
experience in brand building.
“She is a talented leader
that will play a critical role
in advancing the company’s
marketing initiatives and
reinforcing its position in the
market.With her deep life-
long love for Roots, she is an
excellent cultural fit and we are
pleased to welcome her to the
team,”she added.
With a career spanning over
15 years in marketing and
communications leadership,
Golts is transitioning from
the post of General Manager
and Head of Marketing at
Unilever Canada’s Beauty and
Wellness Business Unit. She
drove significant profitable
growth and brand success
across various segments,
including haircare, skincare,
vitamins and hydration.
“I am thrilled to be part of the
Roots Corporation family and
excited about the opportunities
to elevate the brand to new
heights. Roots has a rich
history and I look forward to
collaborating with the team to
create compelling marketing
strategies that resonate with our
diverse audience,”stated Golts
in a release.
This appointment follows
the earlier addition of Joey
Gollish as Roots’ Creative
Director in residence.
Additionally, US-based
affordable fashion retailer
rue21 has announced the
appointments of Elisa Bannon-
Jones as SVP, Chief People
Officer and Michele Pascoe as
EVP, Chief Financial Officer,
effective from 11th December.
Bannon-Jones, a specialist
in human resources, people
and culture, comes to rue21
from GNC, Pep Boys/Icahn
Automotive Group and
Frontier Communications,
where she held the position
of Chief People Officer.
The executive has held
leadership roles in retail
business for a period of time
early in her career.
“I am excited to join the rue21
team and eager to contribute
to fostering a culture of
innovation, engagement and
inclusivity that empowers our
team and drives success in
2024 and beyond,” Bannon-
Jones said.
Since being promoted to EVP,
CFO, Pascoe, who was most
recently SVP, CFO at rue21,
is now also in charge of the
company’s legal department.
Pascoe brings along decades of
executive leadership expertise
in finance across a variety of
businesses, including her time
as CFO at Fashion Bug and
Marsh Supermarkets, to her five
years at rue21.
“I am honoured to take on this
new role as rue21 continues to
evolve,”Pascoe stated.
UAE’s retail
landscape is
witnessing a marked
shift towards digital
shopping experience,
as highlighted in
the Global Digital
Shopping Index
2023 UAE Edition,
with 94 per cent
of consumers
embracing at least
one digital shopping
feature during their
retail experience.
Shopify merchants
have set an
unprecedented
Black Friday
record, collectively
generating an
impressive US
$ 4.1 billion in
sales, marking a
substantial 22 per
cent increase over
the previous year.
Fashion and lifestyle
label, Arket, under
the H&M Group
umbrella, has
initiated its first
concession store
within Selfridges
London, marking a
significant milestone
for the brand.
Japanese fashion
brand Uniqlo is
ramping up its
expansion plan in
North America with
more than 20 stores
set to open in the
US and Canada
next year, doubling
the current year’s
store openings.
SNIPS
New appointments for apparel brands
Konstantinos Balogiannis, COO/Managing
Director, Europe and Global Business
Development, Esprit

In 2024, personalisation
will soar to new heights.
Brands will renew their
efforts to craft tailored
shopping experiences,
whether customers are
shopping online or visiting
stores, using AI and ML
for e-purchases or in-store
visits. As per a Deloitte
report, 90 per cent of
customers find personalised
advertising attractive and
80 per cent are more
likely to buy from a
company providing
personalised experiences.
The idea behind hyper-
personalisation is to
personalise every customer
touch point, moving beyond
remembering names or past
transactions. Understanding
and anticipating needs
will take centre stage. The
wealth of available data
will enable this hyper-
personalisation. To create
detailed customer profiles,
companies will employ
advanced AI algorithms to
study social media activity,
tastes and preferences and
lifestyle choices in addition
to past purchases.
For instance, in online
shopping, cart abandonment
is a real headache. But hyper-
personalisation can help
here by reminding customers
about their abandoned carts
and sweetening the deal
with personalised incentives.
Loyalty programs too provide
personalised rewards and
discounts will be used by
brands to solidify the bond
between retailers and
their customers.
The truth is that most
customers in 2024 and going
forward, expect a highly
customised experience,
whether they’re browsing
in-store or online.
TRENDS
SET TO DEFINE
THE FASHION
SECTOR IN 2024
COVER STORY
Get ready for a whirlwind ride through the fashion world’s crystal ball! In 2024, the fashion industry
will don its shades—global uncertainty might loom, but guess who’ll shine as the silver lining?
That’s right, India will be rocking it! Brands will act like chameleons, adapting and showing off their
agility. Sustainability will emerge as the superhero, greenwashing will come under more scrutiny and
personalisation will take centre stage to efficiently address customer needs. Bricks-and-mortar stores will
be back like a boss, while AI is set to entrench itself even further within business operations. Let’s dive
into the key trends set to define the fashion scene in 2024!
10
FOCUS ON HYPER-PERSONALISATION
IN RETAIL
1

According to a report by
McKinsey & Company, in 2024,
the most prominent sentiment
among fashion industry leaders
is uncertainty, which stems
from the expectation of slow
economic growth, ongoing
inflation and low consumer
confidence. According to
the International Monetary
Fund (IMF), global growth is
expected to decline to 2.9 per
cent in 2024 compared to 3 per
cent in 2023. This marks one
of the lowest growth rates in
decades. Advanced economies
are expected to experience a
decline, dropping from 2.6 per
cent growth in 2022 to 1.5 per
cent in 2023 and 1.4 per cent
in 2024.
However, the report states
that amidst global challenges,
India, where consumer
confidence hit a four-year high
in September 2023 brings in a
ray of hope. As per McKinsey’s
Global Economics Intelligence
survey, around 85 per cent of
executives from India stated
that things have got better in
the last six months.
As demand from the United
States and Europe stagnates,
Indian garment exporters
will look to explore domestic
markets for new sales. The
potential for growth in the
domestic sector is immense.
India has emerged as a vibrant
hub for the fashion industry
due to its rapidly expanding
middle class, robust economic
fundamentals, rising
disposable income, growing
manufacturing sector, rising
tech-savvy population and
strong government support.
Brands are poised to direct
their attention towards
India increasingly.
India’s nominal GDP,
measured in USD terms, is
projected to escalate from US
$ 3.5 trillion in 2022 to US $
7.3 trillion by 2030. This rapid
economic growth trajectory
would result in the size of
the Indian GDP exceeding
the Japanese GDP by 2030,
positioning India as the
second-largest economy in the
Asia-Pacific region.
As per the 2023 Wealth
Report by Knight Frank,
India is expected to witness
a significant rise of 58.4 per
cent in ultra-high-net-worth
individuals (UHNWIs)
– individuals with a net
worth exceeding US $ 30
million – within the next five
years, reaching an estimated
count of 19,119 by 2027.
This presents substantial
opportunities for both local
and global brands to capitalise
on this growing market.
Meanwhile, the domestic
apparel market in India is
forecasted to hit US $ 100
billion by 2025. This surge
in demand presents a golden
opportunity for global and
local apparel brands to amplify
their market presence in India.
India’s fashion landscape
is already witnessing a
remarkable rise in homegrown
labels and brands that
embrace design, art and size
inclusivity while staying true
to their roots. Over the last
decade, Indian consumers
have noticeably shifted
towards supporting local
enterprises and embracing
their cultural heritage.
COVER STORY
INDIA - THE SILVER LINING
IN THE CLOUD
2
Smart Textiles include
such textiles and their
ensembles which are always
responsive and adaptive at
times. However, the
current market trend is
towards the adoption of
e-textiles. Their widespread
applications can be found
in the health and wellness
sector followed by sports and
leisure. Furthermore, within
e-textiles, development is
ongoing for making textiles
that get rid of any hard goods
(metals/alloys/plastics/etc.).
One can find increasing
usage of conductive fibres
and yarns over conductive
inks and polymers. The lab
scale research in the area
of textile-based batteries
is expected to be adapted
by the e-textile ensembles
conventionally powered by
external batteries. On the
other hand, amalgamation
of diverse materials in such
smart wearables draws
critical attention to their
end-of-life steps (recycling,
disposal, etc.), when it comes
to addressing the Sustainable
Development Goals.
EMERGING DOMINANCE OF E-TEXTILES
IN SMART WEARABLES
3

COVER STORY
In 2024, sustainable fashion
will continue to evolve. Fuelled
by increasing consumer interest
in transparency, additional
legislations around the world
are being introduced to hold
major fashion companies
accountable for their
environmental and social
impacts and thus the fashion
dynamics are undergoing
noticeable changes.
This awakening isn’t just a
fleeting trend; it’s a steadfast
movement set to gather
even more momentum in
the coming years. The focus
of brands will be on 7Rs
— Reduce, Reuse, Recycle,
Research, Repurpose, Repair
and Rent — to promote
responsible consumption and
production practices.
There has been an increase
in demand for eco-friendly
fabrics, rental options,
upcycling and vintage fashion.
A study by trend forecasting
company WGSN identifies
major activities happening
by the year 2024-25 such as
lower-impact circular synthetic
fills, certified ethical down and
feathers, alternatives to animal
wool and insulations derived
from plant-based fibres.
The availability of rental
options is also expanding
fast as consumers become
increasingly mindful of
their decisions. There’s
been significant growth,
particularly during wedding
or festive seasons. The digital
revolution and the rise of
e-commerce have made
rentals easily accessible.
With abundant raw materials
available, there’s also immense
potential for the growth of
upcycling in the next five
years. Brands like Doodlage,
RaasLeela, The Second Life
and Patch over Patch are
leading this fashion movement.
Upcycling isn’t merely a
trend—it’s endorsed by the
EU as one of the most efficient
and cost-effective methods
for businesses committed to
sustainable fashion.
Innovations like 3D knitting
machines, which significantly
minimise fabric waste and
blockchain technology
which ensures supply chain
transparency, will see
widespread adoption.
In 2024, there will be
increased scrutiny on
greenwashing practices – a
practice where companies
give a false impression of their
environmental impacts or
benefits. A recent report by
the European Commission
revealed that after screening
sustainability claims in the
textile, garment and shoe
sectors, around 39 per cent of
such claims stand a chance of
being proved as false
or deceptive.
As we gaze into the future of
the fashion industry, one thing
is clear—sustainability remains
a key focus of the fashion
landscape in 2024.
The upcoming trend in the
fashion industry for 2024 is
the prominent use of vibrant
and daring colours. Hues such
as fuchsia, yellow and emerald
green are expected to maintain
their popularity amongst
fashion-conscious consumers.
Furthermore, the trend of
monochromatic outfits,
featuring a single, impactful
colour, is expected to gain
traction. Opting for a clean
and modern aesthetic remains
a favourable choice.
In the world of fashion,
colour transcends its aesthetic
function; it possesses the
ability to communicate
emotions and set moods,
underscoring its significance
within the industry.
For 2024, Pantone has named
‘Peach Fuzz’ as the colour
of the year, describing it
as a soft and subtle peachy
hue. This selection goes
beyond aesthetics, as Pantone
attributes the choice to the
colour’s ‘all-embracing spirit
that enriches mind, body
and soul’. In acknowledging
the prevalent challenges and
turmoil in many people’s lives,
‘Peach Fuzz’ is characterised
as a hue that embodies a
‘heartfelt kindness’.
EMBRACING SUSTAINABILITY, RENTAL
EMPHASIS AND GREENWASHING SCRUTINY
4
COLOURS THAT WILL DOMINATE THE
FASHION SCENE – BARBIE THE INFLUENCER
5

COVER STORY
The World Health
Organization (WHO)
reports that there are
presently more than 1
billion individuals globally
living with various forms
of disability. This figure
is expected to rise in the
future due to factors like
aging population and
the increasing impact of
chronic illnesses. Moreover,
according to the United
Nations, the worldwide
population aged 60 years or
older is estimated to reach
2.1 billion by 2050. The
market for adaptive clothing
is therefore huge.
Talking about India, the
Registrar General and Census
Commissioner of India (RG
& CCI), in the 2011 census,
reported that out of India’s
1.21 billion population,
approximately 2.68 crore
individuals were identified
as ‘disabled’, constituting
about 2.21 percent of the total
population. By 2022, this
number is estimated to have
risen to approximately
3.49 crore.
In India, millions of
individuals who cope with
disabilities face a range
of physical, sensory and
cognitive obstacles. They
encounter challenges in
finding apparel that meets
their specific needs. Even
though this population is
huge, the brands or retailers
catering to this population
are very less. The global
market for adaptive clothing
which is forecast to be
worth US $ 400 billion
by 2026 offers plenty of
opportunities.
Similarly, India also
boasts huge potential
in both toy production
and consumption with
a population exceeding
1.4 billion, where 27 per
cent are under the age of
14. According to reports,
there are more than
9,600 registered MSME
toy manufacturing units
and 8 GI (geographical
indication) toy clusters in
the country. Some of the
subsidies and concessions
offered by the government
to the toy manufacturers in
these clusters are: a 30 per
cent capital subsidy on fixed
SEIZING OPPORTUNITIES IN ADAPTIVE
CLOTHING, TOYS AND SNEAKERS
6
For apparel and fashion
accessories, the peach hue
conveys a message of tactility
and will work well with suede,
velvet, quilted and furry
textures, as the colour has
the ability to be ‘luxuriously
soothing and soft to
the touch’.
‘Peach Fuzz’ adds a
comforting presence
and aims to bring ‘a
feeling of tenderness and
communicating a message
of caring and sharing,
community and collaboration’.
While talking about colours,
it is pertinent to mention the
impact the colour pink has
had on the fashion industry.
So, listen up all fashion
enthusiasts, business owners
and aficionados!
Who could have predicted
the global pink phenomenon
that ensued after the official
release of the Barbie movie
in July 2023? It seems pink
has made a triumphant
comeback—or perhaps it
never really left!
From pink shoes to bags,
swimsuits and umbrellas, the
world has been immersed in
a sea of pink. People donned
shades of pink to watch the
movie, and the upcoming
year is poised to be painted
in various hues of this
vibrant colour.
The Barbie trend has not
only met expectations but
has transcended the confines
of the fashion industry.
Thanks to Barbie’s substantial
marketing budget, the iconic
brand has forged impressive
collaborations even outside the
realm of fashion. More than
six months post-release of
the movie, the allure of pink
remains strong and shows no
signs of slowing down!
In India, millions of individuals who cope with
disabilities face a range of physical, sensory and
cognitive obstacles. They encounter challenges
in finding apparel that meets their specific
needs. Even though this population is huge, the
brands or retailers catering to this population
are very less.

COVER STORY
In just three years of
almost losing the battle to
e-commerce players and the
pandemic, physical retailers
in India are making a
strong comeback.
As per the findings of a report
by Deloitte India and the
Shopping Centre Association of
India (SCAI), the organised
bricks-and-mortar retail
sector in India is expected to
register a Compound Annual
Growth Rate (CAGR) of 17
per cent between the years
2022 and 2028. This robust
growth trajectory is propelled
by various factors, including
the increasing levels of
disposable incomes among
consumers, the ongoing
trend of urbanisation and an
escalating demand for both
convenience and enhanced
shopping experiences.
According to reports,
Reliance Retail is gearing up
to launch Fashion World by
Trends, a value apparel retail
chain, in Tier-2, Tier-3 and
smaller towns. This will mark
Reliance’s debut into rural
and small-town markets. This
expansion will primarily rely
on the franchise model, with
aim to set up more than 500
stores, positioning themselves
in direct competition with
established rural-focused
chains such as V-Mart Retail.
Madame, a womenswear
brand under Jain Amar
Clothing Pvt. Ltd., aims to
solidify its retail presence by
adding 30 new stores across
India by 2024. Meanwhile,
the direct-to-consumer
(D2C) menswear brand,
DaMENSCH, plans to
inaugurate 100 stores by the
end of 2024.
Lifestyle, part of the
Landmark Group, intends
to expand by opening
approximately 50 new stores
in India within the next three
to four years. Devarajan
Iyer, Executive Director
and CEO of Lifestyle,
stated that smaller markets
offer substantial growth
opportunities for the brand.
Grasim Industries’
textile division plans an
expansion in smaller cities
and towns, aiming to
establish around 100-120
retail stores in the next
couple of years. American
retailer Gap, in partnership
with Reliance Retail, is set
to introduce over 100 stores
across India.
Aditya Birla Fashion and
Retail Ltd. (ABFRL) is also
reportedly planning to launch
the stores of the French luxury
retailer Galeries Lafayette in
India. ABFRL plans to open
two flagship stores - one in
Mumbai by 2024 and another
in New Delhi a year later -
housing over 200 luxury and
designer brands.
As per KPMG report,
‘Customer Experience - key
to sustained value creation’,
the main motive behind
customers shopping in
bricks-and-mortar stores
is the chance to touch,
feel and experience the
products personally before
purchasing them.
In the fiercely competitive
retail industry, it is tough to
stand out online. However,
a bricks-and-mortar store
provides retailers with the
opportunity to create a highly
engaging brand experience It’s
clear that despite the surge in
e-commerce, brands are set
to prioritise brick-and-mortar
stores in 2024 and beyond.
BRICKS-AND-MORTAR RETAILING
IS BACK ON TRACK
7
asset investment, a 5 per
cent interest rate subsidy on
loans up to Rs. 75 million,
100 per cent stamp duty
and land conversion charge
waivers, Rs. 2 per unit
electricity tariff subsidy,
50 per cent rent subsidies
at SEZs and freight
subsidies for road and rail
transportation.
In the toy sector, there’s
ample space for innovation,
particularly in making
electronic toys that enhance
the learning experience of
school children in Math
and Science. India’s strong
IT and education sectors
provide a perfect platform
to harness expertise and
develop unique, interactive
products tailored for this
specific audience.
Similarly, over the past
4-5 years, sneakers have
emerged as the most
appealing non-apparel
lifestyle product category
amongst the youth.
According to various
international research
reports, the worldwide
sneaker market value is US
$ 86.86 billion, and with
around a CAGR of 6.8
per cent, it is expected to
reach US $ 139.8 billion by
2032. With regard to India,
revenue in the sneakers
segment amounts to US $
3.01 billion in 2023. The
market is expected to grow
annually by 5.88 per cent
CAGR during 2023-27.
Compared to the Western
world, sneaker culture
arrived a bit late in
India, but now it’s on an
upward trajectory.

The consumer landscape
is witnessing a massive
resurgence in travel, marking
the most significant uptick
since pre-pandemic times.
However, alongside this
excitement, there is a notable
shift in consumer values that
are directly altering their
expectations.
Despite an enduring focus
on shopping, consumers now
prioritise experiences over
possessions. For instance,
LVMH recently purchased
luxury travel company
Belmond with plans to make
traditional luxury travel
less about opulent hotels
and accommodations and
more about one-of-a-kind
experiences since today’s
consumers care more about
creating an Instagram-able
memory than purchasing the
hottest new product.
Malls, for instance, are bidding
adieu to the conventional
product-centric retail
model and transforming
into experiential centres.
Designers such as Anita
Dongre are pioneering
this shift by establishing
showrooms where customers
can immerse themselves in
the product, complete with
apparel, footwear, jewellery
and other accessories giving a
perfect look, in order to create
memories and make a purchase
if they choose.
Many malls across India
including DLF, Palladium
and Ambience, incorporate
‘betterment zones’ that
prioritise relaxation and
mindfulness over a continuous
shopping atmosphere. This
shift reflects a broader trend
towards blending commerce
with immersive and enriching
experiences in various
industry landscapes. Brands
and retailers must adapt to
this new reality by revisiting
their distribution and
category strategies, aligning
them with the emerging
consumer dynamics.
Evolution of Influencer
Dynamics: The face of
influence is undergoing a
transformative shift, urging
brand marketers to revisit
and update their influencer
engagement strategies. A fresh
cohort of creative personalities
is capturing the attention
of audiences and in order to
navigate this landscape in
2024, brands need to forge
different types of partnerships
with influencers, placing a
heightened emphasis on video
based content.
In addition to this, a
willingness to relinquish
some creative control will be
essential for brands aiming
to authentically connect
with their target audience
through influencers.
Redefining Outdoor
Lifestyles: The demand for
technical outdoor clothing and
the rise of the ‘gorpcore’ trend
(in which outerwear typically
designed for outdoor recreation
is worn as streetwear) signify a
broader consumer mindset for
embracing a healthier lifestyle.
The trend gained momentum
due to the pandemic. Once
lockdowns began easing,
people worldwide eagerly
sought outdoor experiences,
wanting an escape from the
restrictions. The element
of functionality fused with
the desire to look cool and
effortless drives the popularity
of this trend.
In the coming year, one can
expect a surge in outdoor
brands launching lifestyle
collections to cater to
this evolving preference.
Simultaneously, lifestyle
brands are expected to
incorporate technical
elements into their collections,
blurring the traditional
boundaries between
functionality and style.
The collaboration between
The North Face and Gucci
marked a significant milestone
as one of the initial major
partnerships blending lifestyle
and outdoor aesthetics. Since
then, a trend of collaborations
influenced by performance
footwear have emerged,
featuring notable pairings such
as On and Loewe, Hoka and
Moncler and the collaboration
between Vibram, known for
barefoot shoes, and Balenciaga.
In apparel industry, Jil Sander
and Arc’teryx collaborated on a
collection, infusing sportswear
elements into mountain gear.
Additionally, Adidas and
Moncler joined forces to create
a capsule collection comprising
puffers and track jackets. These
partnerships have propelled
the gorpcore trend, gaining
traction with celebrities like
Kendall Jenner and Bella
Hadid who stylishly combine
high-end luxury fashion with
outdoorwear and hiking shoes.
This trend is not limited to
high-end brands, with mid-
market labels also embracing
the outdoors. H&M’s summer
2023 ‘Move’ collection
featured water-repellent
parkas and convertible
hiking trousers. Inditex’s
brand Oysho, specialising in
loungewear and activewear,
incorporated hiking boots
into its permanent range and
introduced a dedicated hiking
collection for women.
The outdoors are being
reinvented as a lifestyle choice
and brands should proactively
respond by including technical
and stylish elements into their
product offerings to align with
this growing consumer trend.
KEY CONSUMER DRIVERS IN 2024: TRAVEL,
OUTDOORS, INFLUENCERS
8
COVER STORY

Gen Z, the age group born
between approximately
1996 and 2012, is on track
to become the fastest-
growing generation in terms
of spending power. It’s
evident that the industry
has taken notice, with Gen
Z becoming one of the
main points of discussion in
corporate boardrooms.
There are more than 116
million Gen Z consumers
in India, stated the Market
Research Society of India
(MRSI), referring to data
from research firm Kantar in
June 2023. “This population
is high on individualism, low
on regrets and more self-
appreciating. They are also
known to give significantly
higher importance to their
personal appearance, as
compared to other age
cohorts,” said MRSI.
Last year, Walmart-owned
online retailer Myntra
introduced FWD, an
immersive fashion experience
tailored for Gen Z on its
platform. A top company
executive mentioned that
the objective is to target
the demographic cohort
succeeding Millennials and
attract 10 million new Gen
Z customers within the next
two years.
Skechers, a sneaker brand
targeted at Gen Z and youth,
saw India emerge as the
‘highest earner in terms of
sales’ in Asia-Pacific in the
April-June 2023 quarter.
In 2024, the focus of fashion
brands is poised to expand
beyond just targeting Gen Z
to also encompass Generation
Alpha, those born from 2010
to 2024. While Gen Z
remains a significant
demographic in terms of
spending power, the upcoming
Gen Alpha cohort presents a
new avenue for brands.
The Gen Alpha identity is
strongly linked to technology,
a connection that accelerated
during the pandemic,
seamlessly integrating tech
into nearly every facet of their
lives. According to a study
by marketing transformation
agency Razorfish, over 40 per
cent of Generation Alphas
have embraced tablets before
reaching six years old and more
than half have engaged with
video game consoles by the
age of seven. The percentage
of Gen Alphas prioritising the
latest technology is over double
than that of Gen Z, standing
at 63 per cent compared to 31
per cent, respectively.
Moreover, with increased
internet access, Gen Alpha
tends to favour brands typically
aimed at adults rather than
those considered more ‘kiddie’,
a trend observed even before
they enter their teen years.
Sociologist Mark McCrindle,
known for coining the
term ‘Alphas’, projects that
approximately 2.5 million
Alphas are born worldwide
each week, estimating their
population to reach 2 billion by
2025. Their market potential
is immense. For instance,
the childrenswear market
is already huge, reaching
US $ 260.6 billion in 2021,
according to IMARC Group.
In 2024, AI will continue to
define how we create, design
and consume fashion. Some
of the ways in which AI is
expected to transform the
fashion industry is through
demand forecasting, trend
forecasting, personalised
sizing recommendations,
virtual try-ons, fit predictions,
supply chain management
and enhanced inventory
management. AI-powered
virtual styling tools and image
consulting have emerged
as revolutionary solutions,
helping customers make
informed decisions and
boosting e-commerce
sales significantly.
AI will also aid in outfit
designing, a creative process.
AI can help expedite the
design process and make it
more effective and efficient. AI
algorithms can analyse massive
amounts of data from various
virtual sources and can even
autonomously generate new
designs, amplifying creativity
and expediting the design
phase. Moreover, AI can help
identify suitable influencers for
fashion brands by analysing
social media data, follower
demographics, engagement
rates and content relevance.
With AI algorithms, brands
can pinpoint influencers
aligned with their target
audience, fostering more
impactful influencer
collaborations for effective
marketing campaigns.
Overall, brands will continue
to harness the power of AI
to streamline operations,
foster innovation and create
personalised experiences,
benefiting both businesses
and consumers.
FASHION BRANDS TO WOO
GEN Z AND GEN ALPHA
9
AI WILL CONTINUE TO SHAPE THE
FASHION WORLD
10
COVER STORY

CONTACT US
Madeira India Pvt. Ltd.
Plot 895, Udyog Vihar Phase 1
Sector 20, Gurugram
Haryana - 122016
www.madeira.com/en-in
Email: info@madeiraindia.com
Tel: 0124 4994686
CONTACT US
Madeira India Pvt. Ltd.
Plot 895, Udyog Vihar Phase 1
Sector 20, Gurugram
Haryana - 122016
www.madeira.com/en-in
Email: info@madeiraindia.com
Tel: 0124 4994686 January 2024 | AO India 33

The fashion sector in 2023
saw a fresh tilt towards fabric
innovation and alternative
materials, redefining the
way apparel is produced and
perceived. Apparel Online’s’
comprehensive analysis in its
January issue highlights this
significant shift.
Manufacturers such as
Tirupur-based BS Apparel
led the way with Bamboo
Performance technology,
blending organic cotton and
bamboo fibres for optimal
stretch and sweat-wicking
properties. The company sells
garments made from UPF
50+ fabrics that block 98 per
cent of the sun’s rays and are
tailored for sensitive skin.
Additionally, the company has
begun exploring the potential
of merino wool and recycled
polyester for activewear due
to their superior sustainability
and performance features.
Whereas, Techno Sports,
one of the leaders in the
activewear industry that sold
over 10 million garments
in 2021, focused on using
profiled filament yarns and
processing additives, as well
as altering the basic DNA of
polyester to produce a wider
range of fabrics. Its in-house
lab sources hundreds of yarns
and chemicals globally and
develops a range of fabrics
analysed across multiple labs
to achieve the ideal blend of
comfort and style.
During 2023, there was a
notable rise in the adoption
of eco-friendly materials like
organic cotton, hemp, jute,
bamboo, pineapple leather
and more.
Leading brands like Stella
McCartney and H&M that
were already incorporating
eco-friendly fabrics, renewed
their thrust on nature’s
offerings. Many famous
fashion designers from
around the world, like Agnes
B, Kate O’Connor, Alfred
Sung, Oscar de la Renta and
Diane von Furstenberg, are
increasingly using bamboo
materials in their collections.
In India, manufacturers
and designers are also now
increasingly embracing
environment-friendly
materials. Leading companies
like Shahi Exports, Pearl
Global, Eastman Exports,
Aquarelle and others,
including Pratibha Syntex,
Reliance Retail and Arvind,
have taken proactive steps
to drive sustainability across
their operations. Nearly all
of them are using renewable
energy and are actively into
water conservation, worker
welfare and much more.
Meanwhile, designers like
Anjali Bhaskar launched a
clothing line from pure fibres
found in plants like orange,
aloe vera, eucalyptus and
banana. With environmental
concerns on the rise, circular
business models including
rental and resale have also
experienced good growth.
Textile waste management
also emerged as a key
concern, particularly in
countries like the US,
EU and UK. In 2023,
a legislation called the
Responsible Textile
Recovery Act (SB-707)
was introduced in the US
state of California. It aims
to make apparel producers
responsible for collecting
and recycling their products.
The Indian fashion industry has undergone
a significant transformation in 2023. Some
of the major themes that defined this year
were focus on fabric innovation, sustainability,
brands’ increasing thrust to tap into Tier-
2 and Tier-3 cities, the rise of virtual stores
and AI integration, growth of gender-fluid
fashion, the rise of the toy industry and
redefined procurement strategies amongst
others. Apparel Online was at the forefront
of decoding these themes to help empower
businesses. Without further ado, let’s explore
the key factors that shaped fashion in 2023!
TOP 10
THEMES
THAT DEFINED
FASHION
INDUSTRY
IN 2023
YEAR-IN-REVIEW/
/2023
Fabric innovations, eco-friendly
fabrics, thrust on sustainability
take centre stage
1

According to a World Bank
Report, retail in India is
projected to contribute 8
per cent to the GDP and
generate 10 per cent of the
employment by 2030, with
maximum contribution
expected from Tier-2 and
Tier-3 cities. Apparel Online’s
February issue highlighted
how consumers in Tier- 2 and
Tier-3 cities are embracing
the changing landscape of
the fashion industry. These
cities have emerged as critical
markets for fashion retailers
and online platforms, owing to
increased disposable income,
rise of e-commerce, improved
internet access, exposure
to influencers, cheaper real
estate, amongst other factors.
Brands are ramping up their
advertising efforts, employing
digital and traditional
marketing tools to establish
a stronger foothold in these
emerging markets.
Tasva, a men’s ready-to-wear
line by Aditya Birla Fashion
and Retail Ltd (ABFRL),
launched its first store in Jaipur
as part of its effort to increase
its retail presence. It’s Tasva’s
33rd franchised location in
India. Iconic Fashion India
opened its latest exclusive
store in Ludhiana. This retail
chain sells high-end apparel
from labels like GANT, True
Religion, DKNY, Elle Paris.
Following suit, Cantabil
launched its 500th store
in Ayodhya.
The southern region is also
making strides in expansion.
ABFRL opened a new outlet
for its lifestyle brand American
Eagle at HiLITE Mall,
Calicut. The company plans
to broaden its retail footprint
via franchisees, intending to
introduce an additional 50
stores across India in the next
three years. Dubai-based value
fashion chain Max Fashion
launched its largest store in
India in Kochi spanning over
25,000 sq. ft. of retail space.
Avantra by Trends, a concept
store chain by Reliance Retail,
opened its third store in Kerala
at Palakkad. Apparel Group
India announced its expansion
into six Tier-2 cities – Udaipur,
Ranchi, Kozhikode, Kanpur,
Udupi and Mangaluru.
Moreover, several brands are
now crafting specially tailored
designs and collections to
meet the distinct needs of
non-metro cities. Amazon
Fashion ensures delivery to 100
per cent serviceable pin codes
across India, guaranteeing
two-day delivery in over 200
major cities.
In Apparel Online’s September
edition, talks about the
specific parameters by brands
or retailers to select Tier-2,
Tier-3 cities were covered
in detail. Hitesh Bhatt,
Director - Marketing and
Communications, Retailers
Association of India stated,
“I personally believe that the
4Ps – Price, Product, Place
and Promotion – are the
most important aspects to
consider before opening an
EBO in Tier-2 cities or other
small cities.”
In the sci-fi movie Minority
Report released in 2002,
John Anderton, portrayed
by Tom Cruise, steps into
a mall’s clothing store.
As he enters, his eyes are
scanned. A cheerful sales
associate appears via a video
projection on a curved
screen, inquiring about his
previous purchase of assorted
tank tops: “How did those
assorted tank tops work out
for you?” This depiction
showcased a form of virtual
shopping using augmented
reality (AR) in retail. Since
then, the retail sector has
undergone a dramatic shift.
The pandemic has sped up
the integration of AR and
virtual reality (VR) in retail.
According to a recent
McKinsey article, the lines
between ‘online and offline
channels’ are getting more
blurred. The April issue of
Apparel Online pointed out
the various advantages of
virtual stores like reduced
expenses, wider outreach,
enhanced personalisation,
increased customer loyalty
and the ability to generate
new revenue streams. These
platforms also gather valuable
data that aids retailers in
YEAR-IN-REVIEW/
/2023
Brands increase ‘Bharat’ focus,
make deeper inroads into Tier-2
and Tier-3 cities
2
Rise of the virtual
stores and AI
3

refining their marketing
strategies. Big players like
Amazon, Walmart and
Alibaba have already invested
significantly in virtual stores
and malls.
A virtual store redefines
online shopping, blending AR
or VR to create an immersive
experience. Rather than
scrolling through a website,
customers step into a virtual
space that offers an engaging
and connected shopping
journey. The four main types
of virtual stores are:
1. Fully Virtual Stores:
These exist entirely
in the virtual realm,
offering interactive
experiences just like
browsing through a
physical store. Charlotte
Tilbury’s Virtual Beauty
Shop is a prime example.
Customers can customise
avatars, try makeup
virtually and explore
rooms, earning rewards
along the way.
2. AR Stores: AR enhances
in-store shopping, letting
consumers visualise
different garments and
options without getting
undressed.
3. Virtual Marketplaces:
Platforms like Amazon
and Alibaba unite sellers
and buyers, catering
to niche goods. They
streamline large purchases
for businesses with features
like 3D renderings and
shoppable videos.
4. Social Media Stores:
Instagram and
TikTok enable direct
purchasing from posts.
This trend appeals to
younger generations,
transforming visual
content into instant buys.
International brands like Alo
Yoga, Vans, Bloomingdale’s
and Lacoste have ventured
successfully into virtual
stores, drawing in customers
with engaging content and
immersive experiences.
Other brands like Da
Milano Italia, Zivame,
Aditya Birla’s Style Up,
SAXX, Tommy Hilfiger,
Burberry and PINKO
also launched their own
innovative virtual stores,
offering unique shopping
experiences, interactive
elements and exclusive
content to customers.
In India, overseas brands
and retailers like Zara,
Decathlon and Bestseller
India are actively
incorporating the concept
of experiential retail stores
as they are bringing the
global shopping experience
under one roof to offer
their consumers a unique
shopping platform.
In 2023, AI emerged as
a key technology in the
fashion world’s buzz.
Stradivarius, part of the
Inditex group, turned heads
with an S/S ’23 campaign
featuring AI-generated
models. The Dutch fashion
company G-Star, which
specialises in denim designs,
made its first design based
on an AI-generated model a
reality in the physical world.
In October, H&M’s Creator
Studio introduced a new
platform that lets shoppers
become fashion designers.
Using the Stable Diffusion
generative AI, users can
make their own high-quality
merchandise by responding
to written prompts. The text-
to-image results are then
later printed onto fabrics.
Gender-fluid fashion is
gaining greater traction
amidst changing consumer
attitudes towards gender
identity and expression.
Fashion designers and brands
are now creating collections
that blur the lines between
menswear and womenswear,
focusing on unisex or gender-
neutral designs. These
garments often feature relaxed
silhouettes, minimalistic
styles and neutral colour
palettes that appeal to a broad
range of individuals.
In 2014, the Supreme
Court of India recognised a
transgender person’s right to
self-identification as male,
female or the third gender.
Metropolitan areas and
regions with more liberal
attitudes in India are driving
the demand for gender-
neutral clothing. However,
the acceptance of gender
diversity is spreading, hinting
at forthcoming growth
across the country. Some
of the top gender-neutral
clothing brands in India
include NorBlack NorWhite,
HUEMN, Bloni, Anaam,
Six5Six Street, Crow, Genes
Lecoanet Hemant and
Anaisha. The June edition
of Apparel Online explained
how the Millennials and
Gen Z have united to create
a platform where non-binary
and gender-fluid individuals
can authentically express
themselves on social media,
finding community
and support.
Some of the leading Indian
designers shaping the gender-
neutral clothing landscape
include Kallol Datta, Dhruv
Kapoor, Urvashi Kaur and
Shani Himanshu with Mia
Morikawa. Internationally,
Rad Hourani, Telfar Clemens,
Alejandro Gómez Palomo,
Rob Smith and Charles Jeffrey
are influential figures in
gender-neutral fashion.
Gender-fluid
fashion
4
YEAR-IN-REVIEW/
/2023

The toy industry in India
is booming, expected to
grow at over 12 per cent
annually over the next
five years. Presently at
around US $ 1.35 billion,
it accounts for just 0.5 per
cent of the global market.
Forecasts from Research and
Markets predict a growth
to US $ 2.73 billion for this
industry by 2027, boasting
a compound annual growth
rate (CAGR) of 12 per
cent. With a rising global
footprint, India is exporting
higher-value toys to regions
like the Middle East and
Africa. In 2023, everyone
took notice of the Indian toy
industry. The Budget 2023
increased the import duty
on toys from 60 per cent to
70 per cent. Government
policies, such as a proposed
Rs.3,500 crore production-
linked incentive (PLI)
scheme, stand as key
drivers propelling the
growth of India’s toy
manufacturing sector.
The July issue of Apparel
Online covered the current
state of India’s toy industry.
Key initiatives such as the
National Toy Action Plan
and Toycathon have played
a vital role in driving this
growth. These initiatives
involve students, educational
institutions and start-ups,
working together to boost
the toy industry through
collaboration, innovation
and creativity.
Yashwinder Kohli, CEO of
Dimpy Toys (Jasco Toys),
Greater Noida, who is into
soft toys manufacturing for
the last 31 years, supplying
to top brands like Hamleys,
Miniso, Toys R Us, Simba
and more, is highly positive
about the growth of the toy
industry. He stated, “The
scenario has changed. The
segment is witnessing a
remarkable transformation,
such as increased high-value
exports to Middle Eastern
and African countries.”
According to reports, top
global retailers from the US
and Europe have expressed
interest in sourcing goods
from India and are helping
toy manufacturers meet
compliance requirements.
India stands at the fifth
spot amongst the leading
countries driving the
metaverse market, which
is valued at US $ 1.6
billion in 2023 and is
projected to grow at a
compound annual growth
rate of 39.40 per cent. The
year 2023 saw continued
growth and innovation
in metaverse technology.
A Gartner report stated
that 25 people will engage
daily in the Metaverse for
various activities like work,
shopping, education and
entertainment.
One of the most significant
tech trends in 2023 was the
adoption of Non-Fungible
Tokens (NFTs). These
tokens represent exclusive
digital assets stored on
blockchain,
each one verified as
completely unique.
Fashion retailers from
luxury labels (like Burberry,
Balenciaga, Gucci, Louis
Vuitton) to premium brands
(such as Ralph Lauren,
Tommy Hilfiger, Nike) and
even fast-fashion brands
(like H&M, Zara) are
entering the metaverse.
The Indian fashion
industry, once hesitant, is
now catching up. Several
designers like Manish
Malhotra, Anamika Khanna
and Raghavendra Rathore
have ventured into NFTs.
In 2023, Dennison
announced its partnership
with Trace Network Labs,
a renowned workwear
apparel company based in
India, to establish their very
first brand store within the
PARIZ Metaverse dedicated
to Fashion and Lifestyle.
This collaboration aims to
introduce an immersive
shopping experience for
Dennison’s digitally created
collections in their PARIZ
metastore, enabling the
brand to expand its already
well-established Web2
digital presence into the
Web3 realm.
According to experts,
metaverse tech enhances
shopping experiences
through virtual try-ons,
virtual stores and
social shopping.
Toy industry comes of
age in India
5 Metaverse boom
in India
6
YEAR-IN-REVIEW/
/2023

Some of the key trends that
shaped the procurement
landscape in 2023 include
Sourcing as a Service,
collaboration, supplier
diversity, data analytics,
focus on risk mitigation and
sustainability, collaboration
between sourcing and sales
teams and manufacturers as
innovators amongst others.
Apparel Online, through the
year, dissected these emerging
themes in detail. The year
2023 underscored the need to
invest in faster manufacturing
systems as it becomes
increasingly evident that due
to wars and external factors,
supply chain disruptions are no
more a fleeting phenomenon
but a lasting reality.
This year, ‘Sourcing as a
Service’ (SaaS), gained
momentum in transforming
the traditional model of
apparel sourcing into a
more agile, tech-driven and
consumer-centric approach.
SaaS uses data, artificial
intelligence (AI) and machine
learning (ML) to establish
an interconnected ecosystem
which improves transparency
across the supply chain.
It also became increasingly
evident that sourcing
teams must work in close
collaboration with sales teams
and add substantial value
beyond traditional roles.
With automation threatening
to streamline 80 per cent of
sourcing tasks, the focus must
shift towards innovation,
product development and
competitive pricing. Another
key trend that emerged is
the increasing demand to
encourage manufacturers to
demonstrate more appetite
for the ‘independence model’.
Rather than depending entirely
on brands and buying offices
for guidance, manufacturers
were urged to showcase
their strengths in quality
management, production
timelines and compliance.
This display of self-reliance
adds significant value to
the supply chain, fostering
stronger partnerships between
manufacturers and brands.
Our March issue showcased
how sustainable marketplaces
are reshaping consumer
habits in India, answering
the call for ethical and eco-
conscious products. There
are many online sustainable
fashion marketplaces such as
SustainKart, Brown Living
and Upcycleluxe offering
multi-category products. Each
of these platforms cater to 300-
1000 brands. These platforms
not only address the demands
of eco-conscious consumers
but also showcase the
potential to thrive in business
while prioritising social and
environmental responsibility.
For instance, celebrity-founded
private labels like SustainKart
offer a diverse range of
sustainable items across fashion
and lifestyle. Established by
Kanthi and Shilpa Reddy,
this Hyderabad-based brand
has raised US $ 1.5 million
in funding, featuring over
2200 brands and 2.7 lakh
unique SKUs. It has expanded
further with Kare & Karess, a
babycare line, and launched its
flagship store in 2022 at Jubilee
Hills, Hyderabad. Notable
brands on SustainKart include
Planet over Profit, Biopads,
Nia ethnic, KeeBee Organics,
Superbottoms, Skosh and
whitewaterkids.
Consumers now consider
certifications when shopping.
Labels like Ayush, Ecocert,
FDA, FSC, GOTS, Oeko-
Tex, PETA and USDA
Organic influence their
sustainability choices.
Brown Living, founded by
Chaitsi Ahuja, offers eco-
friendly products, emphasising
plastic-free shipping. With 420
brands and 12,500 products,
it’s growing at 44 per cent
quarterly. Since 2019, Brown
Living has avoided 2,03,602
kg of plastic from landfills.
Brands like Nimbu Pani, One
less, AAtman, Mhysa, ECO
365, Naari Pads, Malhar’s
Children and Tarasha are
listed on Brown Living.
Luxury brands thrive in
sustainable marketplaces,
attracting a loyal audience
valuing quality over price.
Upcycleluxe, a Delhi-based
platform by Harshita Chandra
and Kartikey Chandra, boasts
200+ brands and 7000+
eco-conscious products for
B2C and B2B customers. The
platform promotes responsible
consumption, featuring local
Indian designers and offering
consumers insights into their
products’ impact. Some of
the brands listed on it include
Taraasi, Orbaan, Earthy
Route, Tamaksh, Ewoke and
The Rover Journal.
The future of
sourcing defined
7
Emergence of
sustainable marketplaces
8
YEAR-IN-REVIEW/
/2023

YEAR-IN-REVIEW/
/2023
According to S&P Global
Ratings, India is set to
become the world’s third-
largest economy by 2030
and is also poised to become
the fastest-growing major
economy in the next
three years.
On 1st November 2023,
Reliance opened Jio World
Plaza in Mumbai. Spanning
a colossal 7,50,000 square
feet, the Plaza is home to 66
globally renowned luxury
brands. Notable names
include Louis Vuitton,
Gucci, Burberry, Valentino,
Dior, Balenciaga, Rolex,
Bottega Veneta, Cartier,
Bulgari, Jimmy Choo and
more. Balenciaga which
opened its first store at the
Jio World Plaza will be
reportedly paying a steep
monthly rent of Rs 40 lakh.
Similarly, Dior has leased
two units of 3,317 sq. ft.
each, for a pricey monthly
rent of Rs 21.56 lakh,
according to Mint.
The millionaire count in
India is set to rise by 105
per cent by 2026, according
to a Credit Suisse report.
With this boom, global
luxury brands are gearing
up to make their mark and
expand within the country’s
burgeoning market.
The rich are eager to invest
in experiences rather than
possessions, influenced by
the YOLO (you only live
once) phenomenon and
are recognising the lasting
value of indulging in
experiential luxury.
According to Nexus Malls,
which has a portfolio of
17 malls in 13 Indian
cities, the demand from
big international brands
has increased drastically in
post-pandemic scenario. As
many as 15 international
brands, that stopped
their Indian operations
some years ago, are
now returning to India
including new entrants
such as Kiabi, Boohooman,
Mavi, Miss Poem.
The year 2023 showed that
India’s luxury market is on
an ascent, despite global
economic challenges.
India’s tryst
with luxury
9

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