sleeve

1. Sleeve is a part of a garment that covers the arm, through
which the arm passes or slips. The pattern of the sleeve is
one of the characteristics of fashion in dress, varying in
every country and period.

2. CLASSIFICATION OF SLEEVES
Most of the sleeves are classified based on the following
 fit levels (tight, loose, shaped),
 length (short, Three-quarters, elbow-length, etc. )
 outline or shape (full at the shoulder, widening around elbow,
narrowing toward the wrist etc.)
 style details as cuffs, openings and trimmings.

3. Points to consider in the Construction of Sleeves
1. Grain line – the straight grain of the fabric act as the center of the sleeve along its entire length.
2. Biceps level – it is the widest portion of the sleeve, which distinguishes the cap from the lower sleeve.
3. Sleeve cap – it is the portion above the biceps line and is curved.
4. Cap height – this is the distance between the biceps to the top along the grain line.
5. Cap ease – it ranges from 1 ¼” to 1 ½” depending on the size.
6. Elbow level – it is exactly located at the joining point of the arm and the elbow dart.
7. Wrist level – it is the place where the hand enters the sleeve.
8. Notches – the presence of notches eases the attachment of the sleeve to the garment and also helps in
the identification of the front and back portion of the sleeve. The front sleeve identified by the presence
of a single notch, and two notches mark the back sleeve.

4. Sleeve Lengths
1. Drop shoulder - the sleeve is attached to an armhole shaped to extend
wider than the natural shoulder.
2. Cap - extension to the front and back of the garment to cover the top of
the arm.
3. Short - sleeve length ending about half the distance between elbow and
underarm.
4. Elbow length - any style sleeve that ends at the elbow.
5. Bracelet - three-quarter length cuffless sleeve to show bracelet.
6. Long - long sleeve tapered to the wrist so it can be pushed up to stay in
place (also called push-up).
7. Extended - any long flowing sleeve. May extend longer than the arm.

6. GORIES OF SLEEVE
A. Set-in sleeves from fitted to full
1. Set-in- The set-in sleeve has a high rounded sleeve
cap. The sleeve underarm seam and the blouse
side seam are constructed first so the sleeve is
set into the armhole. May be any length.
2. Shirt- A sleeve with a barely rounded wide sleeve
cap, attached to the armhole before the
underarm seam and side seam are sewn as a
continuous seam. May be any length. Long
shirt sleeves are usually cuffed. (Also called
tailored shirt sleeve.)

7. 3. Barrel- Straight long set-in or shirt sleeve which is
smooth at the armhole with minimal fullness at the
cuff.
4. Roll-up- Straight short or elbow length sleeve
designed to be rolled or folded up to from a cuff.
May be either set-in or shirt sleeve.

8. 5. Fitted- A full-length narrow set-in sleeve. May either
be one-piece with darting at the elbow or
twopiece with vertical seams down front and back
of arm. (Also called suit sleeve.)
6. Bell- A set-in sleeve that is smooth at the armhole,
flared at hem edge

9. 7. Butterfly- A set-in sleeve that is smooth at the
armhole, widely flared at the hem edge (elbow
length or longer).
8. Bishop- Long full set-in sleeve with
fullness held at wrist by cuff. May
be gathered at cap as well as at
wrist.

10. 9. Button-tab- A long roll-up sleeve with a
button-tab sewn above the elbow.

11. 10. Puffed- Short full
sleeve with gathers
at armhole or lower
edge or both. (Also
called puff sleeve.)

12. 11. Balloon- Long full sleeve with
gathers at armhole and at lower
edge. Usually made of crisp fabric

13. 12. Leg-o'-mutton- Sleeve with full
gathered or pleated top tapering to
narrow at the wrist. (Also called leg-
ofmutton sleeve.)

14. 13. Petal- Sleeve with curved
overlap along outer arm. (Also
called lapped.)

15. 14. Circular cap- Short flaring
sleeve that extends out from
smooth cap at armhole.

16. 15. Melon- Sleeve made in lengthwise
sections that are wider in the middle
of the sleeve to give a melon shape
in the middle of the sleeve. Usually
made of stiffened fabric.

17. 16. Juliet - Long sleeve with a
puffed upper section
seamed to a fitted lower
section.

18. 17. Lantern- Long or 3/4-
length sleeve made with
crosswise design seam(s)
to give width. Sleeve is
smooth at the armhole and
wrist.

19. B. KIMONO- Kimono sleeves are usually cut in one with
front and back of garment.
1. Kimono- Shape is usually angular
under the arm in contrast to curve
of dolman. (Also called mandarin
sleeve.)

20. 2. Dolman- Shape is usually curved
under the arm. Sleeve is usually
long and fitted at the wrist.

21. 3. Cape sleeve- May either be a semi-
circular extension of the front and
back or a circular or semicircular piece
sewn over the top of the shoulder to
give a cape effect.

22. C. RAGLAN
1. RAGLAN – joined by diagonal seam
that extends from underarm to
neckline. May have a dart to shape
the shoulder or may have an
additional seam along the outside
of the arm.

23. 2. PEASANT – a wide raglan sleeve
with gathers at the neckline and
lower edge. Gathers may be
controlled by drawstring or elastic.
Sleeve may be short or long.