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The Newsletter of Winter 2013 
Workshops & Conferences 
Annual Winter Conference 
Saturday, March 9, 8:30 - 3:30 
Paul R. Baird Middle School 
Ludlow, MA $50 
Day of Garden Skills Workshops & 
Demonstrations for School Garden 
Saturday, April 20, 9:00 - 3:00 
Tranquil Lake Nursery, Rehoboth $20 
Summer Graduate Course 
8 Workshops on Massachusetts Farms 
Starting: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 
Ending: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 
Farms across the State 
Details on page 7. 
Feature Topic: 
The Magic of Mulching 
Mission: Massachusetts Agriculture 
in the Classroom is a non-profit 501 
(c)(3) educational organization with 
the mission to foster an awareness 
and learning in all areas related to 
the food and agriculture industries 
and the economic and social 
importance of agriculture to the 
state, nation and the world. 
A School Garden Resource 
MA Agriculture in the Classroom 
has a long history of supporting 
school garden efforts across the 
state. Since 1994, MAC has awarded 
more than 170 mini-grants, totaling 
$125,000 to school projects that have 
included garden-based education, 
nutrition and healthy local foods. 
Over the past 15 years, professional 
development trainings have reached 
more than 4,400 educators through 
215 workshops and 15 conferences 
with a variety of agricultural topics, 
many with links to garden-based 
education. Written materials have 
supported gardening at the school, 
including teacher resources on soils 
composting, and growing specific 
fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers. 
In 2012, MAC developed several new 
and comprehensive resources to assist 
teachers who are starting a school 
garden. These useful tools are now 
on our website. They were funded by 
the MA Department of Agricultural 
Resources through a Specialty Crops 
Grant. An additional grant from MDAR 
and funds from the MA Society for 
Promoting Agriculture will support 
even more garden-based materials for 
2013. 
Teachers get the chance to try out garden-based 
activities at MAC’s annual conferences. 
Twenty new garden-based lessons 
for grades one through four are also 
on-line. Lessons for each grade level 
include: Soils, Garden Planning, Seeds, 
Pollination and Nature Journaling. We 
are now working to enhance each of the 
lessons with agricultural background 
and additional activities. 
During the year, MAC provided 
school garden mentoring support 
for twenty schools and will assist an 
additional twenty schools in 2013. We 
conducted garden-based workshops 
and conferences throughout the year 
and have plans to do so again in 2013. 
We introduced two free, full days of 
garden skills workshops for teachers 
in spring and fall and also collaborated 
with NOFA on school garden education 
at their winter conference. 
Thirteen How-to-Guides for Getting 
Started in the School Garden are 
now on-line. Each technical manual 
provides in-depth background and 
suggestions for adaptations for school 
environments. Topics include: Start-up 
Budgeting, Siting, Building Garden 
Beds, Containers, Compost, Soils, 
Choosing Plants, Watering, Seeding, 
Transplanting, Mulch, Cover Crops 
and Theme Gardens. In 2013, MAC 
will develop three additional guides. 
MAC also launched three Directories 
to support School Garden Efforts. 
We invite you to visit our website to 
view a list of schools gardens with an 
associated map, educational resources, 
and businesses that can support these 
gardens. If you are not yet listed, please 
fill out a form to tell us about your 
school garden or garden services.
2012 Mini Grants 
In 2012, the MAC Mini-Grant Com-mittee 
awarded $6,950 to support the 
16 worthy agricultural education 
projects listed below. Each year MAC 
awards mini-grants to teachers and 
schools, averaging from $300 to $500. 
Deadlines for proposal submission 
are the first of April, September 
& November. We encourage any 
Massachusetts educators to submit a 
proposal to enhance their education 
program. More information and mini-grant 
guidelines are available on 
MAC’s website. 
April 2012 Mini-Grants 
“Davis School Vegetable Garden” 
Davis Elementary School, Bedford $250 
“From Compost to Cucumbers” 
Stoneleigh Burnham Sch., Greenfield $500 
“Selser School Garden” 
Selser School, Chicopee $300 
“Farming in the Urban Environment” 
Gerena Community Sch., Springfield $250 
“Parker School Greenhouse Project” 
Francis W. Parker School, Devens $500 
“Outdoor Classroom Garden” 
Holden Christian Academy, Holden $500 
April Funding Total $2,300 
September 2012 Mini-Grants 
“Center Pepin School Garden” 
Center Pepin Elem. Sch., Easthampton $500 
“Southern Berkshire School Farm” 
Southern Berkshire RSD, Sheffield $1,000 
“Reflective Volunteering on Local Farm” 
Dever-McCormack Sch., Dorchester $390 
“School Farm Garden Project” 
McGovern School, Medway $500 
September Funding Total $2,390 
November 2012 Mini-Grants 
“How Does Your Garden Grow” 
* Lowell High School, Lowell $500 
“Reflective Volunteering in Local Farm” 
Higginson-Lewis K-8 School, Boston $350 
“Page School Colonial Garden Project” 
John C. Page Elem. Sch., W. Newbury $810 
“Agricultural Field Trip & Farm Day” 
Greenager, Great Barrington $100 
“Sowing a Garden of Learning” 
* Mt. View Elem., E. Longmeadow $280 
“Agricultural Education at Colburn 
* Colburn Elem. Sch., W. Springfield $220 
November Funding Total $2,260 
President’s Message 
2012 was a year of exponential 
growth for Massachusetts Agriculture 
in the Classroom, and it was all 
thanks to our many supporters. The 
MA Department of Agricultural 
Resources provided a Specialty 
Crops grant to get us started on a new 
statewide school-gardening initiative. 
We enlisted garden educator Alice 
Posner as Program Associate to work 
with Debi Hogan to develop these 
new educational materials. During the 
year, Christopher Szkutak assisted 
with technical support including 
videotaping workshops and a new map 
for our school garden directory and 
Molly Faulkner provided additional 
garden mentoring assistance. 
The Massachusetts Society for 
Promoting Agriculture awarded a 
grant to MAC to expand these garden-based 
resources and a new Specialty 
Crops Grant will also allow us to 
continue our school garden focus in 
2013. Please visit our website often 
to review and utilize these terrific and 
growing resources. 
Our workshops and conferences 
also increased during the year. We 
introduced two, free, days of garden 
skills workshops and demonstrations 
for the school garden, held in spring 
and fall at local farms. The Fall 
“Greening the School” Conference 
reached a record number. It was 
sponsored by Chipotle Mexican 
Grill with assistance from Whole 
Foods Markets. We are partnering 
with Connecticut Agriculture in the 
Classroom for our March 9, 2013 
Annual Winter Conference with eight 
workshop choices in each session. 
Win A Trip to the Big E! 
Marjorie Cooper 
President 
2012 Mini-Grant Total $6,950 
* These grants were funded thanks to a 
donation from Chipotle Mexican Grill. 
Drawing of the Big E experience from a 
student who attended the fair from Harvard- 
Kent Elementary School in Charlestown. 
MAC and Massachusetts Trustees 
of the Eastern States Exposition 
are partnering to promote the 
3rd Annual Massachusetts 
AgriScience Excellence Award. 
The winning teacher will receive 
recognition in the MAC newsletter; 
a plaque and award ceremony at the 
Big E; a classroom grant of $200, 
and a trip to the Big E with busing 
and tickets for his/her students for 
September of 2013. The application 
form and guidelines can be found on 
the MAC website under grants. It is 
due February 14. 
Three additional bus trips and tickets 
to the Big E will be awarded. One for 
any classroom in western Mass. and 
two to urban classrooms in the eastern 
part of the state, courtesy of the Mass. 
Trustees. To apply, send an e-mail to 
MAC with your name, school, grade 
and a brief description of how the trip 
will benefit your students. Send by 
February 14. Awards will be notified 
in March. 
As always, it is the farmers who 
open their businesses and share what 
they do, and the teachers who offer 
insights and activities from their 
agricultural classrooms that make 
our programs successful. You are our 
greatest asset. Program participants 
love learning from you. This small 
non-profit organization would not 
exist without the aid of the educators, 
farmers and businesses that make 
financial contributions year-after-year. 
We appreciate your support and 
thank you for helping us to grow. 
Make a Donation Today! 
MAC is growing and you can help 
us to grow! This small non-profit 
has been working since 1984 to 
support agricultural education 
in classrooms and school gardens 
across the state. We provide 
agricultural education resources and 
technical information; professional 
development workshops and confer-ences, 
mini-grants and so much 
more. All programs are funded 
through donations and grants. If 
you like what we do, we ask you to 
support our educational programs 
with a contribution today. Your tax 
deductible donation will make a real 
difference.
The Magic of Mulching 
Mulching is an important way to 
maintain the health of plants in the 
garden and landscape. It protects and 
enriches the soil, while decreasing 
the amount of time spent on upkeep. 
Mulching mimics the natural cycles 
of the forest ecosystem in which spent 
leaves, twigs, flowers and fruits fall to 
the ground and form a protective layer 
over the soil. As they decompose, 
they support the soil organisms while 
adding nutrients and building the soil. 
What is Mulch? 
Mulch is any type of material that is 
applied to the surface of the soil as a 
covering. It forms a protective layer 
for both plants and soil. Mulch may be 
organic or inorganic, and temporary or 
permanent, depending upon the needs 
of the gardener and the environment. 
Mulching inhibits the germination 
and growth of weeds. It also makes 
it easier to pull weeds that do manage 
to grow. A thick 
layer of mulch 
can even be 
used to smother 
existing weeds. 
This saves time 
for the gardener 
and conserves 
soil resources 
for the desirable 
garden plants. 
Over time, organic mulches break 
down, improving the texture, 
fertility and health of the soil. This 
decreases soil compaction, increases 
water filtration through heavy soils, 
while also holding water in dry sandy 
soils. Depending upon the mulch used, 
soil Ph can be changed to become 
more or less acidic. 
Mulch also protects the soil from 
crusting which would reduce oxygen 
availability for plant roots. Mulch 
prevents erosion from wind and heavy 
rains and reduces soil splashing, 
which keeps soil-borne diseases 
from transferring to plants while also 
keeping fruits and vegetables clean. 
Visually mulch can add to the finished 
and uniform look of the landscape or 
garden. Mulch in the pathways will 
keep feet clean even when the soil is 
damp, to avoid tracking dirt indoors. 
It can also be used to prevent trees and 
shrubs from damage by lawn mowers 
and other power equipment or to 
soften the hard impact of play areas 
and walking paths. 
Start by removing all weeds by 
pulling them up by the roots. 
Water the soil thoroughly 
and lay mulch over 
moist unfrozen soil. 
Resources for Mulching 
Mass. Dept. of Agricultural Resources 
www.mass.gov/agr 
Mass. Flower Growers Association 
www.massflowergrowers.com 
Mass. Nursery & Landscape Association 
www.mnla.com 
Mass. Dept. of Environmental Protection 
Bureau of Waste Prev. - Composting 
www.thegreenteam.org 
Mass. Agriculture in the Classroom 
How-to-Guide on Mulching by Alice Posner 
& School Garden Resource Directories 
www.aginclassroom.org 
Other Resource Websites 
All About Mulch - Savvy Gardeners 
www.savvygardener.com/Features/mulch.html 
Garden Guides - www.gardenguides.com 
Mulches for the Vegetable Garden 
www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/715.html 
Mulching for a Healthy Landscape 
http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-724/426-724.html 
Mulch Guide Blog 
http://mulch-guide.blogspot.com 
Royal Horticultural Society 
http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile. 
aspx?pid+323 
Seattle Tilth 
http://seattletilth.org/learn/resources-1/ 
compost/mulch 
University of Rhode Island 
www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/mulch.html 
USDA Backyard Tip Sheet for Mulching 
www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_ 
DOCUMENTS/nrcs143_023231.pdf 
Understanding Benefits of Garden Mulch 
www.dummies.com/how-to/content/under 
standing-the-benefits-of-garden-mulch.html 
Books 
The Mulch Book: the Complete Book for 
Gardeners by Stu Campbell, Storey Publishing. 
Rodale’s All-New Encyclopedia of Organic 
Gardening: The Indispensable Resource for 
Every Gardener, Rodale Books, 1993. 
Lasagna Gardening by Patricia Lanza, 
Rodale Press. 
The Vegetable Gardeners Bible by Edward C. 
Smith, Storey Publishing. 
Information for this newsletter 
was taken from the resources listed above. 
An organic mulch is made of natural 
substances such as bark, wood chips, 
leaves, pine needles or grass clippings. 
Organic mulches decompose over 
time supporting the life of the soil. 
They must be replaced regularly and 
may attract some garden pests such 
as slugs, voles and birds. Inorganic 
mulches, such as gravel, pebbles, 
black plastic and landscape fabrics, 
do not attract pests or break down or 
require frequent replacing. 
Mulch functions in several ways to 
conserve soil moisture and help 
to make water more available for 
plants, protecting the plants from 
drying out and stabilizing the soil 
moisture levels that support beneficial 
organisms. By covering the soil 
surface it reduces the amount of water 
that evaporates from the surface. It 
also quickly soaks up water when it 
rains, holding that water until it can 
be absorbed into the soil. When mulch 
breaks down it adds organic material 
to the soil, increasing the water 
holding capacity, while also feeding 
soil microbes and earthworms. 
Mulch acts as an insulating layer 
on top of the soil, moderating 
soil-temperature fluctuations. 
This protects plant roots from 
stress. In the heat of summer, 
plant roots are kept cool 
and actively growing. 
How to Apply Mulch 
Benefits of Mulch 
In the winter, mulch protects roots 
from cold, while also preventing 
frost heaving, which pushes plants 
out of the ground as soil expands and 
contracts with each freeze and thaw. 
In spring, a layer of mulch may keep 
soils that have warmed during the 
day from cooling at night, while also 
supporting microbial activity. Plastic 
mulches can be used to warm soil in 
spring to support heat loving plants.
For best effect, mulch should 
be thick enough to 
keep out sunlight 
and deter weed 
growth. To avoid 
suffocating plant 
roots, finer mulches 
that tend to mat 
down, such as grass 
clippings and shredded leaves, 
should be applied no deeper than 
2 inches. Coarser mulches, such as 
wood chips and pine needles, can be 
applied to a depth of four inches. 
Apply evenly around trees, shrubs, 
perennials and annuals, including 
garden vegetables. Do not bring the 
mulch directly into contact with the 
stems and crowns of herbaceous 
plants, leaving an inch or more of open 
space to help prevent diseases caused 
by excess humidity. Avoid smothering 
low growing plants. Around trees and 
shrubs keep mulch four to six inches 
away from the stems. This prevents 
moisture from decaying the bark and 
will also deter bark-chewing animals 
in winter. Always keep the mulch six 
to twelve inches away from buildings 
to prevent termites from using mulch 
as a bridge across treated soils. 
Sheet Mulching 
When to Mulch 
Mulch any new 
plantings as soon 
as they are in 
the ground. For 
established plantings, 
mulch can be applied in the mid 
spring or fall. Spring mulching helps 
prevent weed seeds from sprouting, 
keeps soil temperatures even over the 
summer and, if organic, adds nutrients 
to the soil. Since it serves as a layer of 
insulation, it should be applied only 
after the soil temperature has warmed 
sufficiently, as cool wet soil will cause 
newly planted seeds and seedlings to 
decay. 
Fall mulching helps keep soil 
temperatures warmer through the 
following winter and protects plants 
from being heaved out of the ground 
by alternating freezing and thawing. 
Wait until the ground is frozen to apply 
the mulch, to avoid attracting mice 
and other rodents who are looking 
for a warm winter home. Use loose 
materials that will not compact 
under the weight of the snow, such 
as pine needles, straw, salt marsh 
hay or evergreen boughs. 
Sheet mulching is a way to create or build new garden 
beds without digging, by converting sod or lawn to a 
garden. It is recommended to sheet mulch in areas that 
you will not be planting for three or more months. Fall 
is an ideal time to create a new bed for the spring. Here 
is how to do it: 
Where to Find Mulch 
Many mulch materials can be found 
inexpensively in your home garden 
or at the school. Use your own 
compost or chop fall leaves with a 
lawn mower. Gather pine needles 
from beneath the trees. Collect grass 
clippings from untreated lawns. Save 
your newspapers and compost them. 
Find a local source for bales of clean 
straw. 
Mow or scythe the lawn as low to the ground as you 
can. Then stake and string out the areas where you will 
be creating the new bed. 
Mulch can also be purchased bagged 
or in bulk from a local garden center 
or nursery. Bagged mulch is ideal for 
small projects. It comes in 3 cubic foot 
packages and is easy to transport and 
handle. Bulk mulch is less expensive 
for covering larger areas, as it can be 
purchased in quantity. You’ll need to 
have a way to haul it, or pay an 
additional fee for delivery. 
Bulk mulch also requires 
a temporary storage 
location, until it is 
fully applied to 
the garden. 
With a garden fork, make holes all over the bed areas for 
aeration. You may choose to also dig up the lawn. Lay 
sheets of cardboard over the bed areas, overlapping the 
sheets so that there are no spaces anywhere. If you intend 
to mulch your pathways with wood-chips, lay cardboard 
over these areas as well. 
Soak the cardboard with a sprinkler for a couple of hours 
until thoroughly wet. Cover the cardboard with about 
two feet of mulch. You can layer in manure and some 
green materials if you like. Use about a 25:1 brown to 
green ratio. Make the pile slightly higher in the middle to 
account for settling. 
For the final layer use something aesthetically pleasing 
such as a layer of leaves or straw on top. Leave the beds to 
break down for two to three months or through the winter. 
Sheet mulching layers of cardboard, leaves, straw and compost. 
Perennials, trees and shrubs can be planted directly through 
the many layers into the new garden bed. Before planting, 
remove any weeds that have successfully made it through 
the thick layers by digging them up by the roots. 
For vegetables, dig over the new garden bed to break up the 
soil and incorporate the decomposing organic materials. 
This will loosen the soil and create a good home for new 
seeds and plants. Remove any surviving grass or weeds by 
digging them up by the roots. 
By MAC Program Associate, Alice Posner
Organic Mulches 
Organic mulches are made from 
natural materials. They protect and 
insulate the soil, conserve water and 
gradually break down to improve soil 
structure and release nutrients. Once 
decomposed, they must be replaced. 
Try one of these organic mulches: 
Compost makes a terrific mulch for 
perennials or vegetables. It’s free to use 
and readily breaks down to improve 
soil texture and fertility. When fully 
composted it is free of weed seeds 
and will not heat up and burn young 
plants. Use in the spring or fall as a 
protective layer for soil, as a 
fertilizer top dressing or to 
insulate the soil for winter. 
Leaves can be applied 
directly to the garden in 
the fall as a winter mulch 
or as composted leaf mold 
in the spring. In either case 
they should be thoroughly 
shredded to speed up the 
decomposition and prevent 
mats that inhibits water penetration 
into the soil. A two-to-three inch layer 
provides good weed control. Dig into 
the soil once decomposed. Oak and 
beech leaves will lower the soil Ph. 
Inorganic Mulches 
Inorganic Mulches do not 
decompose or add to the fertility or 
texture of the soil. They do suppress 
weeds, conserve moisture and some 
have the added advantage of being 
decorative. 
Rubber mulch is made of recycled 
tires and looks like shredded wood 
mulch. It is very long lasting, comes 
in many colors and provides a softer 
surface for paths and play areas. 
It can smell strongly 
of rubber. 
Landscape fabric 
is made of woven 
fabric, plastic or 
paper that is treated 
to resist decomposition. I t 
suppresses weeds and also 
allows air, moisture and heat into the 
soil. It must be fastened down and 
openings must be cut for plants. It is 
more effective under another mulch 
such as wood chips. 
Black Plastic mulch is used mostly 
in commercial operations where it 
warms the soil, suppresses weeds 
and reduces the need for irrigation. 
Slits are cut in the fabric for planting, 
which must occur early enough that 
foliage shades the black plastic in 
summer. Remove and discard in 
fall, as plastic will not break down 
in the soil, only in sunlight. 
Clear plastic will not suppress weed 
growth because light penetrates the 
film and raises the soil temperature, 
which may result in an increased 
growth of weeds in early spring. 
Aluminum-coated plastic and foil 
provides excellent weed control with 
just one layer. They decompose very 
slowly, but are also very expensive 
and quite unattractive mulches. 
Gravel, pebbles and crushed stone 
are best used for permanent plantings. 
A one inch layer will provide good 
weed control. Do not use around 
acid-loving plants. These materials 
reflect solar radiation and can create 
a very hot landscape environment 
during the summer months. 
Grass clippings make an excellent 
vegetable garden mulch or can 
be used to suppress weeds in open 
areas. When applied thickly, they 
mat down and turn slimy and smelly, 
producing trapped heat which burns 
young plants. Apply in thin (1/4”) 
layers weekly, allowing each layer to 
dry thoroughly, or mix with shredded 
leaves or compost to aerate and 
facilitate decomposition. Grass has 
a high water content and will 
decompose quickly returning 
nitrates to the soil. Don’t 
use clippings from 
recently treated lawns. 
Salt marsh hay is a favorite mulch 
for vegetable gardens and as a winter 
cover. It’s more expensive that straw, 
yet offers the same benefits, while 
presenting no weed-seed issues. 
Spread to a depth of 4-6 inches. 
Hay though inexpensive is not an 
ideal mulch, as it contains weed seeds. 
Use only on bare ground, pathways 
or under shrubs planted in turf. Apply 
thickly to 4-6 inches deep. 
Pine needles are a good mulch for 
acid-loving plants such as blueberries 
and rhododendrons. They’re attractive, 
allow water to penetrate and will not 
blow away. Apply 2-4 inches and use 
as a top dressing over other mulches. 
Bark mulch is attractive and derived 
from composted bark from pines 
and evergreens. It eventually 
degrades and becomes part of 
the soil. Size ranges from 
shredded to large particles. 
Apply in a 2-3 inch layer 
for weed control. Smaller 
chips are easier to spread, while large 
nuggets may float away with rains. 
Keep away from woody plant stems 
to avoid creating a home for rodents, 
and from buildings to avoid termites. 
Wood Chips are a by-product of 
tree and shrub prunings and come in 
various sizes from shredded to coarse 
blocks. They are best applied under 
trees and shrubs to 3 inches deep to 
conserve soil moisture, moderate 
soil temperature, suppress weeds 
and prevent compaction. They are 
also used for paths and trails. Apply 
a light application of fertilizer to 
offset nitrates consumed from soil 
during decomposition. Keep 
away from woody stems to 
avoid providing a hiding place 
for rodents and away from 
buildings. 
Straw is commonly used 
as an inexpensive mulch 
for the vegetable garden or for winter 
cover. It’s composed of grass stalks 
and is sold in compressed bales. Use a 
local source to assure it was cut prior 
to bloom and is weed-seed free. Straw 
is lightweight, readily biodegradable, 
protective of soil moisture and neutral 
in Ph. Cultivate into the soil as an 
amendment once the season is past. 
Cardboard or newspaper 
is used to suppress weeds under 
heavier mulches such as compost. Wet 
thoroughly and avoid glossy paper, as 
the ink may not be soy based. 
Other organic mulches include 
buckwheat hulls, cocoa hulls, 
seaweed, pecan shells, sawdust, corn 
cobs, peat moss, shells, wool and 
other agricultural by-products.
Living Mulches 
The term living mulch refers to 
the use of living plants that are 
installed in the garden to produce 
many of the same benefits as other 
traditional mulches. Depending 
upon the garden, the living mulch 
may be planted permanently, used 
to cover beds through the winter or 
planted to protect growing crops. 
Massachusetts Agriculture in the Classroom 
P.O. Box 345 Seekonk, MA 02771 
www.aginclassroom.org 
Dust Mulch 
This once common practice has lost 
favor in recent years. Research has 
shown that while dust mulching does 
conserve moisture in soils and inhibit 
weed growth, it also has a negative 
e f f e c t 
on soil 
structure 
since it is 
suscepti-ble 
to wind 
erosion. It 
also adds 
no organic 
m a t e r i a l 
or fertility 
to the soil. 
Cover Crops: A thick cover crop 
planting of oats, buckwheat, rye 
or legumes will blanket the garden 
through the winter or during 
periods when beds are vacant. This 
prevents erosion, loosens the soil, 
and increases garden fertility. It also 
deprives weed seeds of sunlight. 
Cover crops offer an added benefit of 
providing food for beneficial insects. 
When it’s time to plant, dig the 
cover crop into the soil, o r 
chop the tops off and 
plant right through 
it into the garden. 
Try planting a 
cover crop of 
white clover in 
pathways to keep 
out other weeds and 
eliminate mowing. 
Mulch Makes Good Habitat 
The addition of mulch in the garden 
and landscape as a cover for bare soil 
benefits the earthworms, insects and 
other soil decomposing organisms 
by moderating soil temperatures and 
maintaining adequate moisture levels. 
The organic layer also provides a 
home for other organisms including 
important pollinators. 
Interplanting: Plant 
compatible vegetables in close 
proximity to one another, so that 
one will act as a living mulch 
for another. Try growing lettuce 
amongst onions, corn, beets and 
cabbage. Lettuce is a light feeder, so 
it does not compete with the other 
plants. Yet it does benefit from the 
shade as these plants grow taller. 
Mulch Math 
Ground Covers: Many perennial 
ground covers will shield the soil 
acting as a permanent mulch. 
Once established, they out-compete 
the weeds and moderate 
soil temperatures. Those that are 
evergreen will maintain this benefit 
through the winter. They also slow 
water loss and prevent soil erosion, 
especially on slopes. Try periwinkle, 
pachysandra, lungwort, ginger, 
epimedium, sweet woodruff, thyme 
or chamomile or woody plants such 
as bearberry and juniper. 
Mulch is usually sold in bulk by the 
cubic yard. There are 27 cubic feet in 
one cubic yard. Imagine a large pick-up 
truck bed full. One cubic yard will 
cover a 324-square-foot area with an 
inch of mulch. 
Butterflies, moths and 
fritillaries overwinter 
as eggs, caterpillars, 
chrysalis and even 
adults depending upon the 
species. A mulch layer may protect 
them. During warmer months, 
some species hide in the leaf litter 
during the day and feed at night. 
Many native bees build their homes 
in the soil and are protected by the 
mulch. Most will overwinter there 
as well. Spiders, ants and other 
garden insects live there too. 
Toads will make a happy home 
in the garden, and repay you by 
eating undesirable insects. 
Mulch Activity Ideas 
Ask students to design an experiment 
to investigate the decomposition 
rates of various mulches in different 
soil types. Compare the effect of 
decomposition with no water and 
with various amounts of water. 
To calculate the amount of 
mulch needed for an area, first 
determine the desired depth 
based on your needs. The 
thicker the mulch, the 
more it will block 
weeds and insulate the 
soil, however, too thick a mulch may 
keep water and oxygen from reaching 
the plant’s roots. 
Ask students to use the internet, books, 
and other resources to research the 
different types of mulches. For 
each, develop a list of advantages and 
disadvantages for your school. 
Figure out the square footage. This 
is the width times the length for square 
or rectangular beds. For circular bed 
it is the distance from the middle of 
the circle to the outside, multiplied by 
itself and then pi or 3.14. 
Research the local forest and 
agricultural industry to 
determine if there are by-products 
local to your area that 
would make a good mulch? 
To calculate the volume of mulch you 
need: Multiply the area (in square 
feet) by the depth (in inches), then 
dividing by 324. This will allow you 
to project the cubic yards needed. 
Test the rate of water infiltration 
for different types of soils using 
different mulches. 
A dust mulch is a fine, loose layer 
of pulverized surface soil that is 
quickly dried by sun and wind. It 
is maintained by cultivating around 
plants. The dust mulch prevents the 
evaporation of soil moisture and 
conserves water for roots, since 
capillary water beneath this mulch 
cannot penetrate the dust layer and 
escape into the air. 
Using a heat 
lamp and soil 
thermometer, 
test different 
mulches to determine 
which will insulate the 
soil best from fluctuations in 
temperatures.
Exceptional Teacher Award 
Do you know a teacher who does 
an exceptional job of bringing 
ag r icul t u r e to life for his/her 
students? Consider 
nominating him or 
her for the MAC 
Teacher of the 
Year Award for 2013. 
Send us a description 
of his/her agricultural 
classroom and the 
reasons for your 
recommendation 
for the award. Applications are 
due March 15, 2013 and will be 
announced in the autumn 2013 
edition of our newsletter. 
National Conference! 
Mark Your Calendar! The 2013 
National Agriculture in the 
Classroom Conference will be 
held June 25-28 in Minneapolis, 
Minnesota at the Marriott City 
Center. The theme is: Land of 10,000 
Ag Opportunities. The conference 
offers hands-on workshops and mini-workshops; 
make-and-take sessions 
and tours, as well as the opportunity 
to meet and share ideas with other 
educators. For more information visit 
www.agclassroom.org. 
Day of Garden Skills 
Workshops & Demos for the 
School Garden 
Spend an educational and fun day 
brushing up on your gardening 
techniques and learning new 
activity ideas for the school garden 
on Saturday, April 20, from 9 a.m. 
to 3 p.m. at Tranquil Lake Nursery 
in Rehoboth. Twelve workshops and 
demonstrations to support successful 
efforts in the school garden will be 
held throughout the day, including 
fall crops, cover cropping, food 
preservation, seed saving, soil testing, 
cold frames, etc. A $20 fee covers 
materials and some costs. Open to 
all with registration. This educational 
event is supported, in part, by the MA 
Dept. of Agricultural Resources. 
Annual Winter Conference 
MAC is sponsoring our 12th Annual 
Winter Conference for Educators at 
the Paul R. Baird Middle School in 
Ludlow on Saturday, March 9th from 
8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. This year, for 
the first time, MAC will collaborate 
with Connecticut Agriculture in the 
Classroom. The conference provides 
teachers with activity ideas, resources 
and curriculum connections to link 
the farm and the classroom. 
Four workshop sessions will be held 
during the day, with a choice of eight 
concurrent workshops per session. 
Each workshop will be taught by a 
teacher, or teacher working together 
with a farmer, and will offer specific 
background and activities for either 
elementary, middle or high school. 
The $50 fee includes all workshops; 
breakfast snack and lunch from 
nearby Randall’s Farm; materials, and 
ten PDPs with a related classroom 
activity. A limited number of 
scholarships are available 
thanks to a grant from 
Farm Credit Northeast 
AgEnhancement. Visit the 
MAC website for a full list of 
workshops, registration form 
and the scholarship information 
at www.aginclassroom.org. 
Summer Graduate Course 
Check out our 3-credit Graduate 
Course presented with Fitchburg 
State College. The course meets 
Wednesdays, June 26 and 
August 14 in North Grafton 
from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Each 
participant will attend both 
sessions and participate in 
six additional workshops on 
the farm. The fee for the three 
graduate credits, eight workshop 
days, materials and meals is $500. 
REGISTRATION ... DONATION.... MATERIAL ORDER FORM 
Please fill out this form and return it to: MAC, Inc. P. O. Box 345 Seekonk, MA 02771 
Name ____________________________________________________________________ 
School or Organization _______________________ Address __________________________ 
City ____________________________ State ___________________ Zip _______________ 
Phone Number (day) ________________ (evening) _______________ e-mail _____________________________ 
I am registering for the Winter Conference on March 9 in Ludlow ❑ $50 enclosed ❑ please send directions 
I am registering for the Day of Garden Skills Workshops & Demonstration, April 20 in Rehoboth ❑ $20 enclosed 
❑ please send directions 
Please send information on: 
❑ The 2013 Summer Graduate Course; ❑ MAC 2012 Annual Report; ❑ Mini-Grant Guidelines 
I would like to order: ❑ “Eight Lessons About Agriculture & the Environment” $ 12 
❑ “Farm Field Trip Manual” $12; ❑ “Schoolyard Gardens & Their Community Partnerships Manual” $10 
I’d like to make a tax-deductible donation in the amount of: ❑ $100; ❑ $50; ❑ $25 Other donation ______
2013 Massachusetts Agriculture 
Calendar Photo Contest. Now is 
the time to start taking pictures for 
the 2013 Massachusetts Agriculture 
Calendar Photo Contest. Photos 
must be at least 4” by 6” and no 
larger than 8” by 10” and must have 
been taken in Massachusetts in the 
past three years. Send photos of 
local rural scenes, farm animals, and 
more by June 1 to Photo Contest, 
Mass. DAR, 251 Causeway Street, 
S. 500, Boston, MA 02114. For more 
information, e-mail to Richard. 
LeBlanc@state.ma.us. The twelve 
winners will be featured in the 
2014 Mass. Agriculture Calendar 
and posted on MAC’s website. For 
details visit www.mass.gov/agr/. 
To receive more information, add a 
name to our mailing list or give us 
your comments: 
Mass. Agriculture 
in the Classroom 
P.O. Box 345 
Seekonk, MA 
02771 
Call Debi Hogan 
at 508-336-4426 
Fax: 508-336-0682 
massaginclassroom@earthlink.net 
Website: www.aginclassroom.org 
Massachusetts Agriculture 
in the Classroom 
P.O. Box 345 
Seekonk, MA 02771 
Calendar of Events Resources 
February 6 to 8 - New England 
Grows, at Boston Convention Center. 
Visit www.newengland grows.org. 
February 9 - Urban Farming Conf., 
Roxbury, For info., 617-415-4915 or 
Crystal@ISESplanning.com. 
Feb. 27 & 28 - Ecological Land-scaping 
2013 Ag Day Essay Contest & 
Food Facts for Ag Day on March 
19 at www.agday.org. 
Directory of Free Ag. Education 
Materials at http://myamerican 
farm.com/educator_resources/. 
Food Safety: from Farm to Fork 
and other lessons from CA AITC at 
www. l e a r n a b o u t a g . o r g / 
lessonplans/?active=archive. 
Feeding Minds Cultivating 
Growth resource from Amer. Farm 
Bureau at www.agfoundation.org. 
Cotton Mills in New England: 
check historic locations at http:// 
newenglandtowns.org/cotton-mills. 
Farms Food & Fun facts, trivia, 
activities and arts and crafts, visit 
www.farmsfoodfun.com. 
Maple Farms, Resources & 
Recipes at www.massmaple.org. 
Home Gardener Fact Sheets from 
UMass http://extension.umass.edu/ 
landscape/publications-resources/. 
High Tech Foods: Science in 
Your Shopping Cart and other 
Agricultural Resources for teachers 
from Agriculture in the Classroom 
at www.agclassroom.org/teacher/ 
stem.htm. 
Conference, in Springfield, 
visit www.ecolandscaping.org. 
February 27 & 28 - Harvest NE 
Agricultural Marketing Conf. in 
Sturbridge. For information e-mail to 
david.webber@state.ma.us. 
March 6 - MEES Conference at 
Holy Cross in Worcester. Theme 
Strengthening Communities. Visit 
www.massmees.org. 
March 19 - SBN Buy Local Trade 
Show, Seaport World Trade Center, 
Boston, http://bostonlocalfood.com. 
March 23 - MA Land Conserva-tion 
Conference 8-4 in Worcester, 
visit www.massconservation.org. 
April 3 - Massachusetts Agriculture 
Day at the State House. For info. 
e-mail to agpromoboard@mfbf.org. 
April 24 - MA Sustainable Com-munities 
Conference, Worcester at 
www.masustainablecommunities.com.

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Winter 2013 School Gardening News ~ Massachusetts

  • 1. The Newsletter of Winter 2013 Workshops & Conferences Annual Winter Conference Saturday, March 9, 8:30 - 3:30 Paul R. Baird Middle School Ludlow, MA $50 Day of Garden Skills Workshops & Demonstrations for School Garden Saturday, April 20, 9:00 - 3:00 Tranquil Lake Nursery, Rehoboth $20 Summer Graduate Course 8 Workshops on Massachusetts Farms Starting: Wednesday, June 26, 2013 Ending: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 Farms across the State Details on page 7. Feature Topic: The Magic of Mulching Mission: Massachusetts Agriculture in the Classroom is a non-profit 501 (c)(3) educational organization with the mission to foster an awareness and learning in all areas related to the food and agriculture industries and the economic and social importance of agriculture to the state, nation and the world. A School Garden Resource MA Agriculture in the Classroom has a long history of supporting school garden efforts across the state. Since 1994, MAC has awarded more than 170 mini-grants, totaling $125,000 to school projects that have included garden-based education, nutrition and healthy local foods. Over the past 15 years, professional development trainings have reached more than 4,400 educators through 215 workshops and 15 conferences with a variety of agricultural topics, many with links to garden-based education. Written materials have supported gardening at the school, including teacher resources on soils composting, and growing specific fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers. In 2012, MAC developed several new and comprehensive resources to assist teachers who are starting a school garden. These useful tools are now on our website. They were funded by the MA Department of Agricultural Resources through a Specialty Crops Grant. An additional grant from MDAR and funds from the MA Society for Promoting Agriculture will support even more garden-based materials for 2013. Teachers get the chance to try out garden-based activities at MAC’s annual conferences. Twenty new garden-based lessons for grades one through four are also on-line. Lessons for each grade level include: Soils, Garden Planning, Seeds, Pollination and Nature Journaling. We are now working to enhance each of the lessons with agricultural background and additional activities. During the year, MAC provided school garden mentoring support for twenty schools and will assist an additional twenty schools in 2013. We conducted garden-based workshops and conferences throughout the year and have plans to do so again in 2013. We introduced two free, full days of garden skills workshops for teachers in spring and fall and also collaborated with NOFA on school garden education at their winter conference. Thirteen How-to-Guides for Getting Started in the School Garden are now on-line. Each technical manual provides in-depth background and suggestions for adaptations for school environments. Topics include: Start-up Budgeting, Siting, Building Garden Beds, Containers, Compost, Soils, Choosing Plants, Watering, Seeding, Transplanting, Mulch, Cover Crops and Theme Gardens. In 2013, MAC will develop three additional guides. MAC also launched three Directories to support School Garden Efforts. We invite you to visit our website to view a list of schools gardens with an associated map, educational resources, and businesses that can support these gardens. If you are not yet listed, please fill out a form to tell us about your school garden or garden services.
  • 2. 2012 Mini Grants In 2012, the MAC Mini-Grant Com-mittee awarded $6,950 to support the 16 worthy agricultural education projects listed below. Each year MAC awards mini-grants to teachers and schools, averaging from $300 to $500. Deadlines for proposal submission are the first of April, September & November. We encourage any Massachusetts educators to submit a proposal to enhance their education program. More information and mini-grant guidelines are available on MAC’s website. April 2012 Mini-Grants “Davis School Vegetable Garden” Davis Elementary School, Bedford $250 “From Compost to Cucumbers” Stoneleigh Burnham Sch., Greenfield $500 “Selser School Garden” Selser School, Chicopee $300 “Farming in the Urban Environment” Gerena Community Sch., Springfield $250 “Parker School Greenhouse Project” Francis W. Parker School, Devens $500 “Outdoor Classroom Garden” Holden Christian Academy, Holden $500 April Funding Total $2,300 September 2012 Mini-Grants “Center Pepin School Garden” Center Pepin Elem. Sch., Easthampton $500 “Southern Berkshire School Farm” Southern Berkshire RSD, Sheffield $1,000 “Reflective Volunteering on Local Farm” Dever-McCormack Sch., Dorchester $390 “School Farm Garden Project” McGovern School, Medway $500 September Funding Total $2,390 November 2012 Mini-Grants “How Does Your Garden Grow” * Lowell High School, Lowell $500 “Reflective Volunteering in Local Farm” Higginson-Lewis K-8 School, Boston $350 “Page School Colonial Garden Project” John C. Page Elem. Sch., W. Newbury $810 “Agricultural Field Trip & Farm Day” Greenager, Great Barrington $100 “Sowing a Garden of Learning” * Mt. View Elem., E. Longmeadow $280 “Agricultural Education at Colburn * Colburn Elem. Sch., W. Springfield $220 November Funding Total $2,260 President’s Message 2012 was a year of exponential growth for Massachusetts Agriculture in the Classroom, and it was all thanks to our many supporters. The MA Department of Agricultural Resources provided a Specialty Crops grant to get us started on a new statewide school-gardening initiative. We enlisted garden educator Alice Posner as Program Associate to work with Debi Hogan to develop these new educational materials. During the year, Christopher Szkutak assisted with technical support including videotaping workshops and a new map for our school garden directory and Molly Faulkner provided additional garden mentoring assistance. The Massachusetts Society for Promoting Agriculture awarded a grant to MAC to expand these garden-based resources and a new Specialty Crops Grant will also allow us to continue our school garden focus in 2013. Please visit our website often to review and utilize these terrific and growing resources. Our workshops and conferences also increased during the year. We introduced two, free, days of garden skills workshops and demonstrations for the school garden, held in spring and fall at local farms. The Fall “Greening the School” Conference reached a record number. It was sponsored by Chipotle Mexican Grill with assistance from Whole Foods Markets. We are partnering with Connecticut Agriculture in the Classroom for our March 9, 2013 Annual Winter Conference with eight workshop choices in each session. Win A Trip to the Big E! Marjorie Cooper President 2012 Mini-Grant Total $6,950 * These grants were funded thanks to a donation from Chipotle Mexican Grill. Drawing of the Big E experience from a student who attended the fair from Harvard- Kent Elementary School in Charlestown. MAC and Massachusetts Trustees of the Eastern States Exposition are partnering to promote the 3rd Annual Massachusetts AgriScience Excellence Award. The winning teacher will receive recognition in the MAC newsletter; a plaque and award ceremony at the Big E; a classroom grant of $200, and a trip to the Big E with busing and tickets for his/her students for September of 2013. The application form and guidelines can be found on the MAC website under grants. It is due February 14. Three additional bus trips and tickets to the Big E will be awarded. One for any classroom in western Mass. and two to urban classrooms in the eastern part of the state, courtesy of the Mass. Trustees. To apply, send an e-mail to MAC with your name, school, grade and a brief description of how the trip will benefit your students. Send by February 14. Awards will be notified in March. As always, it is the farmers who open their businesses and share what they do, and the teachers who offer insights and activities from their agricultural classrooms that make our programs successful. You are our greatest asset. Program participants love learning from you. This small non-profit organization would not exist without the aid of the educators, farmers and businesses that make financial contributions year-after-year. We appreciate your support and thank you for helping us to grow. Make a Donation Today! MAC is growing and you can help us to grow! This small non-profit has been working since 1984 to support agricultural education in classrooms and school gardens across the state. We provide agricultural education resources and technical information; professional development workshops and confer-ences, mini-grants and so much more. All programs are funded through donations and grants. If you like what we do, we ask you to support our educational programs with a contribution today. Your tax deductible donation will make a real difference.
  • 3. The Magic of Mulching Mulching is an important way to maintain the health of plants in the garden and landscape. It protects and enriches the soil, while decreasing the amount of time spent on upkeep. Mulching mimics the natural cycles of the forest ecosystem in which spent leaves, twigs, flowers and fruits fall to the ground and form a protective layer over the soil. As they decompose, they support the soil organisms while adding nutrients and building the soil. What is Mulch? Mulch is any type of material that is applied to the surface of the soil as a covering. It forms a protective layer for both plants and soil. Mulch may be organic or inorganic, and temporary or permanent, depending upon the needs of the gardener and the environment. Mulching inhibits the germination and growth of weeds. It also makes it easier to pull weeds that do manage to grow. A thick layer of mulch can even be used to smother existing weeds. This saves time for the gardener and conserves soil resources for the desirable garden plants. Over time, organic mulches break down, improving the texture, fertility and health of the soil. This decreases soil compaction, increases water filtration through heavy soils, while also holding water in dry sandy soils. Depending upon the mulch used, soil Ph can be changed to become more or less acidic. Mulch also protects the soil from crusting which would reduce oxygen availability for plant roots. Mulch prevents erosion from wind and heavy rains and reduces soil splashing, which keeps soil-borne diseases from transferring to plants while also keeping fruits and vegetables clean. Visually mulch can add to the finished and uniform look of the landscape or garden. Mulch in the pathways will keep feet clean even when the soil is damp, to avoid tracking dirt indoors. It can also be used to prevent trees and shrubs from damage by lawn mowers and other power equipment or to soften the hard impact of play areas and walking paths. Start by removing all weeds by pulling them up by the roots. Water the soil thoroughly and lay mulch over moist unfrozen soil. Resources for Mulching Mass. Dept. of Agricultural Resources www.mass.gov/agr Mass. Flower Growers Association www.massflowergrowers.com Mass. Nursery & Landscape Association www.mnla.com Mass. Dept. of Environmental Protection Bureau of Waste Prev. - Composting www.thegreenteam.org Mass. Agriculture in the Classroom How-to-Guide on Mulching by Alice Posner & School Garden Resource Directories www.aginclassroom.org Other Resource Websites All About Mulch - Savvy Gardeners www.savvygardener.com/Features/mulch.html Garden Guides - www.gardenguides.com Mulches for the Vegetable Garden www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/715.html Mulching for a Healthy Landscape http://pubs.ext.vt.edu/426/426-724/426-724.html Mulch Guide Blog http://mulch-guide.blogspot.com Royal Horticultural Society http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile. aspx?pid+323 Seattle Tilth http://seattletilth.org/learn/resources-1/ compost/mulch University of Rhode Island www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/mulch.html USDA Backyard Tip Sheet for Mulching www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_ DOCUMENTS/nrcs143_023231.pdf Understanding Benefits of Garden Mulch www.dummies.com/how-to/content/under standing-the-benefits-of-garden-mulch.html Books The Mulch Book: the Complete Book for Gardeners by Stu Campbell, Storey Publishing. Rodale’s All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening: The Indispensable Resource for Every Gardener, Rodale Books, 1993. Lasagna Gardening by Patricia Lanza, Rodale Press. The Vegetable Gardeners Bible by Edward C. Smith, Storey Publishing. Information for this newsletter was taken from the resources listed above. An organic mulch is made of natural substances such as bark, wood chips, leaves, pine needles or grass clippings. Organic mulches decompose over time supporting the life of the soil. They must be replaced regularly and may attract some garden pests such as slugs, voles and birds. Inorganic mulches, such as gravel, pebbles, black plastic and landscape fabrics, do not attract pests or break down or require frequent replacing. Mulch functions in several ways to conserve soil moisture and help to make water more available for plants, protecting the plants from drying out and stabilizing the soil moisture levels that support beneficial organisms. By covering the soil surface it reduces the amount of water that evaporates from the surface. It also quickly soaks up water when it rains, holding that water until it can be absorbed into the soil. When mulch breaks down it adds organic material to the soil, increasing the water holding capacity, while also feeding soil microbes and earthworms. Mulch acts as an insulating layer on top of the soil, moderating soil-temperature fluctuations. This protects plant roots from stress. In the heat of summer, plant roots are kept cool and actively growing. How to Apply Mulch Benefits of Mulch In the winter, mulch protects roots from cold, while also preventing frost heaving, which pushes plants out of the ground as soil expands and contracts with each freeze and thaw. In spring, a layer of mulch may keep soils that have warmed during the day from cooling at night, while also supporting microbial activity. Plastic mulches can be used to warm soil in spring to support heat loving plants.
  • 4. For best effect, mulch should be thick enough to keep out sunlight and deter weed growth. To avoid suffocating plant roots, finer mulches that tend to mat down, such as grass clippings and shredded leaves, should be applied no deeper than 2 inches. Coarser mulches, such as wood chips and pine needles, can be applied to a depth of four inches. Apply evenly around trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals, including garden vegetables. Do not bring the mulch directly into contact with the stems and crowns of herbaceous plants, leaving an inch or more of open space to help prevent diseases caused by excess humidity. Avoid smothering low growing plants. Around trees and shrubs keep mulch four to six inches away from the stems. This prevents moisture from decaying the bark and will also deter bark-chewing animals in winter. Always keep the mulch six to twelve inches away from buildings to prevent termites from using mulch as a bridge across treated soils. Sheet Mulching When to Mulch Mulch any new plantings as soon as they are in the ground. For established plantings, mulch can be applied in the mid spring or fall. Spring mulching helps prevent weed seeds from sprouting, keeps soil temperatures even over the summer and, if organic, adds nutrients to the soil. Since it serves as a layer of insulation, it should be applied only after the soil temperature has warmed sufficiently, as cool wet soil will cause newly planted seeds and seedlings to decay. Fall mulching helps keep soil temperatures warmer through the following winter and protects plants from being heaved out of the ground by alternating freezing and thawing. Wait until the ground is frozen to apply the mulch, to avoid attracting mice and other rodents who are looking for a warm winter home. Use loose materials that will not compact under the weight of the snow, such as pine needles, straw, salt marsh hay or evergreen boughs. Sheet mulching is a way to create or build new garden beds without digging, by converting sod or lawn to a garden. It is recommended to sheet mulch in areas that you will not be planting for three or more months. Fall is an ideal time to create a new bed for the spring. Here is how to do it: Where to Find Mulch Many mulch materials can be found inexpensively in your home garden or at the school. Use your own compost or chop fall leaves with a lawn mower. Gather pine needles from beneath the trees. Collect grass clippings from untreated lawns. Save your newspapers and compost them. Find a local source for bales of clean straw. Mow or scythe the lawn as low to the ground as you can. Then stake and string out the areas where you will be creating the new bed. Mulch can also be purchased bagged or in bulk from a local garden center or nursery. Bagged mulch is ideal for small projects. It comes in 3 cubic foot packages and is easy to transport and handle. Bulk mulch is less expensive for covering larger areas, as it can be purchased in quantity. You’ll need to have a way to haul it, or pay an additional fee for delivery. Bulk mulch also requires a temporary storage location, until it is fully applied to the garden. With a garden fork, make holes all over the bed areas for aeration. You may choose to also dig up the lawn. Lay sheets of cardboard over the bed areas, overlapping the sheets so that there are no spaces anywhere. If you intend to mulch your pathways with wood-chips, lay cardboard over these areas as well. Soak the cardboard with a sprinkler for a couple of hours until thoroughly wet. Cover the cardboard with about two feet of mulch. You can layer in manure and some green materials if you like. Use about a 25:1 brown to green ratio. Make the pile slightly higher in the middle to account for settling. For the final layer use something aesthetically pleasing such as a layer of leaves or straw on top. Leave the beds to break down for two to three months or through the winter. Sheet mulching layers of cardboard, leaves, straw and compost. Perennials, trees and shrubs can be planted directly through the many layers into the new garden bed. Before planting, remove any weeds that have successfully made it through the thick layers by digging them up by the roots. For vegetables, dig over the new garden bed to break up the soil and incorporate the decomposing organic materials. This will loosen the soil and create a good home for new seeds and plants. Remove any surviving grass or weeds by digging them up by the roots. By MAC Program Associate, Alice Posner
  • 5. Organic Mulches Organic mulches are made from natural materials. They protect and insulate the soil, conserve water and gradually break down to improve soil structure and release nutrients. Once decomposed, they must be replaced. Try one of these organic mulches: Compost makes a terrific mulch for perennials or vegetables. It’s free to use and readily breaks down to improve soil texture and fertility. When fully composted it is free of weed seeds and will not heat up and burn young plants. Use in the spring or fall as a protective layer for soil, as a fertilizer top dressing or to insulate the soil for winter. Leaves can be applied directly to the garden in the fall as a winter mulch or as composted leaf mold in the spring. In either case they should be thoroughly shredded to speed up the decomposition and prevent mats that inhibits water penetration into the soil. A two-to-three inch layer provides good weed control. Dig into the soil once decomposed. Oak and beech leaves will lower the soil Ph. Inorganic Mulches Inorganic Mulches do not decompose or add to the fertility or texture of the soil. They do suppress weeds, conserve moisture and some have the added advantage of being decorative. Rubber mulch is made of recycled tires and looks like shredded wood mulch. It is very long lasting, comes in many colors and provides a softer surface for paths and play areas. It can smell strongly of rubber. Landscape fabric is made of woven fabric, plastic or paper that is treated to resist decomposition. I t suppresses weeds and also allows air, moisture and heat into the soil. It must be fastened down and openings must be cut for plants. It is more effective under another mulch such as wood chips. Black Plastic mulch is used mostly in commercial operations where it warms the soil, suppresses weeds and reduces the need for irrigation. Slits are cut in the fabric for planting, which must occur early enough that foliage shades the black plastic in summer. Remove and discard in fall, as plastic will not break down in the soil, only in sunlight. Clear plastic will not suppress weed growth because light penetrates the film and raises the soil temperature, which may result in an increased growth of weeds in early spring. Aluminum-coated plastic and foil provides excellent weed control with just one layer. They decompose very slowly, but are also very expensive and quite unattractive mulches. Gravel, pebbles and crushed stone are best used for permanent plantings. A one inch layer will provide good weed control. Do not use around acid-loving plants. These materials reflect solar radiation and can create a very hot landscape environment during the summer months. Grass clippings make an excellent vegetable garden mulch or can be used to suppress weeds in open areas. When applied thickly, they mat down and turn slimy and smelly, producing trapped heat which burns young plants. Apply in thin (1/4”) layers weekly, allowing each layer to dry thoroughly, or mix with shredded leaves or compost to aerate and facilitate decomposition. Grass has a high water content and will decompose quickly returning nitrates to the soil. Don’t use clippings from recently treated lawns. Salt marsh hay is a favorite mulch for vegetable gardens and as a winter cover. It’s more expensive that straw, yet offers the same benefits, while presenting no weed-seed issues. Spread to a depth of 4-6 inches. Hay though inexpensive is not an ideal mulch, as it contains weed seeds. Use only on bare ground, pathways or under shrubs planted in turf. Apply thickly to 4-6 inches deep. Pine needles are a good mulch for acid-loving plants such as blueberries and rhododendrons. They’re attractive, allow water to penetrate and will not blow away. Apply 2-4 inches and use as a top dressing over other mulches. Bark mulch is attractive and derived from composted bark from pines and evergreens. It eventually degrades and becomes part of the soil. Size ranges from shredded to large particles. Apply in a 2-3 inch layer for weed control. Smaller chips are easier to spread, while large nuggets may float away with rains. Keep away from woody plant stems to avoid creating a home for rodents, and from buildings to avoid termites. Wood Chips are a by-product of tree and shrub prunings and come in various sizes from shredded to coarse blocks. They are best applied under trees and shrubs to 3 inches deep to conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature, suppress weeds and prevent compaction. They are also used for paths and trails. Apply a light application of fertilizer to offset nitrates consumed from soil during decomposition. Keep away from woody stems to avoid providing a hiding place for rodents and away from buildings. Straw is commonly used as an inexpensive mulch for the vegetable garden or for winter cover. It’s composed of grass stalks and is sold in compressed bales. Use a local source to assure it was cut prior to bloom and is weed-seed free. Straw is lightweight, readily biodegradable, protective of soil moisture and neutral in Ph. Cultivate into the soil as an amendment once the season is past. Cardboard or newspaper is used to suppress weeds under heavier mulches such as compost. Wet thoroughly and avoid glossy paper, as the ink may not be soy based. Other organic mulches include buckwheat hulls, cocoa hulls, seaweed, pecan shells, sawdust, corn cobs, peat moss, shells, wool and other agricultural by-products.
  • 6. Living Mulches The term living mulch refers to the use of living plants that are installed in the garden to produce many of the same benefits as other traditional mulches. Depending upon the garden, the living mulch may be planted permanently, used to cover beds through the winter or planted to protect growing crops. Massachusetts Agriculture in the Classroom P.O. Box 345 Seekonk, MA 02771 www.aginclassroom.org Dust Mulch This once common practice has lost favor in recent years. Research has shown that while dust mulching does conserve moisture in soils and inhibit weed growth, it also has a negative e f f e c t on soil structure since it is suscepti-ble to wind erosion. It also adds no organic m a t e r i a l or fertility to the soil. Cover Crops: A thick cover crop planting of oats, buckwheat, rye or legumes will blanket the garden through the winter or during periods when beds are vacant. This prevents erosion, loosens the soil, and increases garden fertility. It also deprives weed seeds of sunlight. Cover crops offer an added benefit of providing food for beneficial insects. When it’s time to plant, dig the cover crop into the soil, o r chop the tops off and plant right through it into the garden. Try planting a cover crop of white clover in pathways to keep out other weeds and eliminate mowing. Mulch Makes Good Habitat The addition of mulch in the garden and landscape as a cover for bare soil benefits the earthworms, insects and other soil decomposing organisms by moderating soil temperatures and maintaining adequate moisture levels. The organic layer also provides a home for other organisms including important pollinators. Interplanting: Plant compatible vegetables in close proximity to one another, so that one will act as a living mulch for another. Try growing lettuce amongst onions, corn, beets and cabbage. Lettuce is a light feeder, so it does not compete with the other plants. Yet it does benefit from the shade as these plants grow taller. Mulch Math Ground Covers: Many perennial ground covers will shield the soil acting as a permanent mulch. Once established, they out-compete the weeds and moderate soil temperatures. Those that are evergreen will maintain this benefit through the winter. They also slow water loss and prevent soil erosion, especially on slopes. Try periwinkle, pachysandra, lungwort, ginger, epimedium, sweet woodruff, thyme or chamomile or woody plants such as bearberry and juniper. Mulch is usually sold in bulk by the cubic yard. There are 27 cubic feet in one cubic yard. Imagine a large pick-up truck bed full. One cubic yard will cover a 324-square-foot area with an inch of mulch. Butterflies, moths and fritillaries overwinter as eggs, caterpillars, chrysalis and even adults depending upon the species. A mulch layer may protect them. During warmer months, some species hide in the leaf litter during the day and feed at night. Many native bees build their homes in the soil and are protected by the mulch. Most will overwinter there as well. Spiders, ants and other garden insects live there too. Toads will make a happy home in the garden, and repay you by eating undesirable insects. Mulch Activity Ideas Ask students to design an experiment to investigate the decomposition rates of various mulches in different soil types. Compare the effect of decomposition with no water and with various amounts of water. To calculate the amount of mulch needed for an area, first determine the desired depth based on your needs. The thicker the mulch, the more it will block weeds and insulate the soil, however, too thick a mulch may keep water and oxygen from reaching the plant’s roots. Ask students to use the internet, books, and other resources to research the different types of mulches. For each, develop a list of advantages and disadvantages for your school. Figure out the square footage. This is the width times the length for square or rectangular beds. For circular bed it is the distance from the middle of the circle to the outside, multiplied by itself and then pi or 3.14. Research the local forest and agricultural industry to determine if there are by-products local to your area that would make a good mulch? To calculate the volume of mulch you need: Multiply the area (in square feet) by the depth (in inches), then dividing by 324. This will allow you to project the cubic yards needed. Test the rate of water infiltration for different types of soils using different mulches. A dust mulch is a fine, loose layer of pulverized surface soil that is quickly dried by sun and wind. It is maintained by cultivating around plants. The dust mulch prevents the evaporation of soil moisture and conserves water for roots, since capillary water beneath this mulch cannot penetrate the dust layer and escape into the air. Using a heat lamp and soil thermometer, test different mulches to determine which will insulate the soil best from fluctuations in temperatures.
  • 7. Exceptional Teacher Award Do you know a teacher who does an exceptional job of bringing ag r icul t u r e to life for his/her students? Consider nominating him or her for the MAC Teacher of the Year Award for 2013. Send us a description of his/her agricultural classroom and the reasons for your recommendation for the award. Applications are due March 15, 2013 and will be announced in the autumn 2013 edition of our newsletter. National Conference! Mark Your Calendar! The 2013 National Agriculture in the Classroom Conference will be held June 25-28 in Minneapolis, Minnesota at the Marriott City Center. The theme is: Land of 10,000 Ag Opportunities. The conference offers hands-on workshops and mini-workshops; make-and-take sessions and tours, as well as the opportunity to meet and share ideas with other educators. For more information visit www.agclassroom.org. Day of Garden Skills Workshops & Demos for the School Garden Spend an educational and fun day brushing up on your gardening techniques and learning new activity ideas for the school garden on Saturday, April 20, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. at Tranquil Lake Nursery in Rehoboth. Twelve workshops and demonstrations to support successful efforts in the school garden will be held throughout the day, including fall crops, cover cropping, food preservation, seed saving, soil testing, cold frames, etc. A $20 fee covers materials and some costs. Open to all with registration. This educational event is supported, in part, by the MA Dept. of Agricultural Resources. Annual Winter Conference MAC is sponsoring our 12th Annual Winter Conference for Educators at the Paul R. Baird Middle School in Ludlow on Saturday, March 9th from 8:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. This year, for the first time, MAC will collaborate with Connecticut Agriculture in the Classroom. The conference provides teachers with activity ideas, resources and curriculum connections to link the farm and the classroom. Four workshop sessions will be held during the day, with a choice of eight concurrent workshops per session. Each workshop will be taught by a teacher, or teacher working together with a farmer, and will offer specific background and activities for either elementary, middle or high school. The $50 fee includes all workshops; breakfast snack and lunch from nearby Randall’s Farm; materials, and ten PDPs with a related classroom activity. A limited number of scholarships are available thanks to a grant from Farm Credit Northeast AgEnhancement. Visit the MAC website for a full list of workshops, registration form and the scholarship information at www.aginclassroom.org. Summer Graduate Course Check out our 3-credit Graduate Course presented with Fitchburg State College. The course meets Wednesdays, June 26 and August 14 in North Grafton from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Each participant will attend both sessions and participate in six additional workshops on the farm. The fee for the three graduate credits, eight workshop days, materials and meals is $500. REGISTRATION ... DONATION.... MATERIAL ORDER FORM Please fill out this form and return it to: MAC, Inc. P. O. Box 345 Seekonk, MA 02771 Name ____________________________________________________________________ School or Organization _______________________ Address __________________________ City ____________________________ State ___________________ Zip _______________ Phone Number (day) ________________ (evening) _______________ e-mail _____________________________ I am registering for the Winter Conference on March 9 in Ludlow ❑ $50 enclosed ❑ please send directions I am registering for the Day of Garden Skills Workshops & Demonstration, April 20 in Rehoboth ❑ $20 enclosed ❑ please send directions Please send information on: ❑ The 2013 Summer Graduate Course; ❑ MAC 2012 Annual Report; ❑ Mini-Grant Guidelines I would like to order: ❑ “Eight Lessons About Agriculture & the Environment” $ 12 ❑ “Farm Field Trip Manual” $12; ❑ “Schoolyard Gardens & Their Community Partnerships Manual” $10 I’d like to make a tax-deductible donation in the amount of: ❑ $100; ❑ $50; ❑ $25 Other donation ______
  • 8. 2013 Massachusetts Agriculture Calendar Photo Contest. Now is the time to start taking pictures for the 2013 Massachusetts Agriculture Calendar Photo Contest. Photos must be at least 4” by 6” and no larger than 8” by 10” and must have been taken in Massachusetts in the past three years. Send photos of local rural scenes, farm animals, and more by June 1 to Photo Contest, Mass. DAR, 251 Causeway Street, S. 500, Boston, MA 02114. For more information, e-mail to Richard. LeBlanc@state.ma.us. The twelve winners will be featured in the 2014 Mass. Agriculture Calendar and posted on MAC’s website. For details visit www.mass.gov/agr/. To receive more information, add a name to our mailing list or give us your comments: Mass. Agriculture in the Classroom P.O. Box 345 Seekonk, MA 02771 Call Debi Hogan at 508-336-4426 Fax: 508-336-0682 massaginclassroom@earthlink.net Website: www.aginclassroom.org Massachusetts Agriculture in the Classroom P.O. Box 345 Seekonk, MA 02771 Calendar of Events Resources February 6 to 8 - New England Grows, at Boston Convention Center. Visit www.newengland grows.org. February 9 - Urban Farming Conf., Roxbury, For info., 617-415-4915 or Crystal@ISESplanning.com. Feb. 27 & 28 - Ecological Land-scaping 2013 Ag Day Essay Contest & Food Facts for Ag Day on March 19 at www.agday.org. Directory of Free Ag. Education Materials at http://myamerican farm.com/educator_resources/. Food Safety: from Farm to Fork and other lessons from CA AITC at www. l e a r n a b o u t a g . o r g / lessonplans/?active=archive. Feeding Minds Cultivating Growth resource from Amer. Farm Bureau at www.agfoundation.org. Cotton Mills in New England: check historic locations at http:// newenglandtowns.org/cotton-mills. Farms Food & Fun facts, trivia, activities and arts and crafts, visit www.farmsfoodfun.com. Maple Farms, Resources & Recipes at www.massmaple.org. Home Gardener Fact Sheets from UMass http://extension.umass.edu/ landscape/publications-resources/. High Tech Foods: Science in Your Shopping Cart and other Agricultural Resources for teachers from Agriculture in the Classroom at www.agclassroom.org/teacher/ stem.htm. Conference, in Springfield, visit www.ecolandscaping.org. February 27 & 28 - Harvest NE Agricultural Marketing Conf. in Sturbridge. For information e-mail to david.webber@state.ma.us. March 6 - MEES Conference at Holy Cross in Worcester. Theme Strengthening Communities. Visit www.massmees.org. March 19 - SBN Buy Local Trade Show, Seaport World Trade Center, Boston, http://bostonlocalfood.com. March 23 - MA Land Conserva-tion Conference 8-4 in Worcester, visit www.massconservation.org. April 3 - Massachusetts Agriculture Day at the State House. For info. e-mail to agpromoboard@mfbf.org. April 24 - MA Sustainable Com-munities Conference, Worcester at www.masustainablecommunities.com.