Glossary of Silk. Here are some definitions of silk related terms to help you understand more about silk.

1. Silk Glossary
Glossary of Silk. Here are some definitions of silk related terms to help you
understand more about silk.
Bale (of Silk)
A defined quantity of raw silk. A Japanese or Shanghai
bale is the same as a Picul and contains 60 kilograms.
A European bale would be 100 kg; Canton bale 48 kg
of raw silk. Indian bale may be 20 kg.
Bave
Undegummed silk thread. Bifilar thread spun by the silk
worm; it consists of two filaments (brins) that are
cemented together by silk gum or sericin. The
continuous filament bave is exuded by the silkworm to
form its cocoon. The two brins are extruded from a pair
of silk glands in the silkworm’s head. The length of
bave varies with the breed of silkworm, from 300
meters to 1500 meters. The thickness of the bave
varies from 1.8 denier to 3.0 denier.
Bivoltine
A breed of mulberry silkmoth which produces two
generations per year and lays hibernating and non-
hibernating eggs. The monovoltine silkmoth produces

2. one generation per year and multivoltine or polyvoltine
up to eight generations per year. Multivoltine or
polyvoltine are tropical varieties which, unlike bivoltine
or monovoltine from temperate regions, have no
dormant period.
Bombyx mori
The Latin name for the silkworm: the silk producing
caterpillar that feeds on mulberry (morus alba) leaves.
Its cocoon is the source of fine, white silk. It is reared
throughout Asia. There are several species of silkworm
that are used in commercial silk production, however
Bombyx mori is the most common. Bombyx mori is
native to China and was introduced into Europe and
western Asia in the 6th century AD and into North
America in the 18th century. It feeds entirely on the
leaves of the mulberry tree, so has flourished only
where conditions are suitable for large numbers of leaf-
bearing mulberry trees. Bombyx mori has been
cultivated over many centuries and is no longer known
in the wild. Silkworm is a common name for Bombyx
mori, though it is not a worm but the larva or caterpillar
of a moth in the family Bombicidae.
Bourette Silk Please see Noil Silk.
Brin
The ultimate filament of silk as emanating from each
gland of the silkworm. Two brins (from each gland on
either side of the body of silkworm) are cemented
together by gum or sericin at the spinneret of the
silkworm to emerge as a bave or silk strand.
Broadcloth (Silk)
Silk Broadcloth is a soft, lightweight silk with a cotton-
like feel. It has a dull luster, with a flat, smooth surface.
Holds creases well, and makes excellent tailored dress
shirts and light blouses. Very easy to sew, doesn’t
show pin marks.
Brocade
A jacquard weave with an embossed effect and
contrasting surfaces. Can also be woven with synthetic
or man-made fibers.
Brocade (Silk)
An elaborate and richly figured fabric woven on a
Jacquard loom using satin weave. The warp float gives
a raised appearance. Originally woven in silk with
additional silver or gold threads, but now can be made
with man-made fibers. Was first produced in China.
Light weight brocade is used for apparel and heavier
weights for furnishings. A brocatine is brocade with a

3. raised pattern imitating embroidery. The word brocade
comes from the Latin word brocare, meaning to figure.
Brushed Silk
Produced by gently brushing the fabric surface to pull
up fibers from the yarn, producing a luxuriously soft &
downy feel to its surface.
Brushing (Silk)
Act of transferring newly hatched silkworms from the
egg sheets on to the rearing trays; or act of removal of
floss from the cooked and boiled cocoons for collection
of ends for reeling.
Canton Crepe Silk
A soft, silk fabric with a finely crinkled texture, similar
to, but heavier than, Crêpe de Chine. Takes its name
from Canton (Guangzhou), a Chinese city.
Caps
Hand spinners use this sort of fiber form to make yarn.
Silk caps are made from cultivated cocoons that have
been degummed and stretched over a frame shaped
like a bell (often a piece of bamboo bent into an arch
shape). A cap consists of a number of extremely thin
layers; each layer is one cocoon. A cap “bell” is roughly
two dozen caps, weighing about a pound altogether,
which are fastened together at their tops and covered
by one large cap whose edges are drawn out and tied
together at the bottom to make a neat bundle.
Charmeuse Silk
A satin weave silk with a crepe back (also called crepe
backed satin). Fabric is woven with a satin weave,
where the warp threads cross over three or more of the
backing threads. The front side of the fabric has a satin
finish, lustrous and reflective, and the back has a dull
finish. Loved for its lustrous shine, beautiful drape, and
sumptuous feel, silk charmeuse is the most widely
recognized of the silk fabrics. Wonderfully versatile, this
elegant fabric has medium weight and some natural
elasticity, making it perfect for skirts, dresses,
eveningwear, nightgowns, lingerie, and gently shaped
tops. Charmeuse sews well, but is subject to snags and
requires extra attention since it is a bit slippery.
Chiffon Silk
Chiffon literally means “rag” in French. This elegant,
sheer fabric is quite limp, with a beautiful drape. It has
a soft, supple, thin hand and a flat, crepe-like texture. A
very light, diaphanous fabric, Chiffon is made with a
loose, plain weave and tightly twisted single crêpe
yarns in both warp and weft. Unlike in crêpe de Chine,
the weft yarn is either S or Z twist. The characteristic

4. wrinkles in the finished fabric are created by the weft
yarns being pulled in one direction. Chiffon is elegant
and sheer, with a slightly rough feel to it. Sometimes
called Crepe Chiffon, this fabric is highly suited for
special occasion dresses, Scarves, nightgowns, and
linings. Chiffon is softer and thinner than Georgette.
[Georgette is made like chiffon, but with a two or three
ply yarn.] Because of its slippery quality, chiffon is
difficult to cut and sew.
China silk
A plain weave silk of various weights. This silk is the
“hand” or touch that many people identify as silk. There
are various weights of china silk from light, used for
linings and many “washable silks” with the wrinkled
look, to heavy for shirts and dresses.
Chrysalis Another term for Pupa. Please see Pupa.
Cocoon (Silk)
The oval casing of filament silk, or brin, spun by the
silkmoth larvae or caterpillar, the silkworm, to protect
itself when it changes into a chrysalis. The silkworm
extrudes through the silk glands in its head a viscose
fluid building up round itself layer upon layer crossing
the filaments in a figure of eight. Color of cocoons
ranges from white to yellow, golden yellow and brown.
The color is contained in the sericin, and is removed
during the degumming process.
Cocoonage (Silk)
Appliance used for mounting mature silkworms to
enable them to spin cocoons.
Cooking (Silk)
The process by which silk cocoons are treated in
boiling water for a short time in order to soften the
filament for easy unwinding during the subsequent
reeling process.
Count
A system for measuring the fineness or thickness of
yarn by spinners, weavers and knitters, count is
essentially a numerical expression indicating the mass
per unit length or length per unit mass of a yarn. In
Scotland the term is known as grist. In all other English
speaking countries the term “count” is used.
Crepe de Chine
Crepe de Chine (‘krape dee sheen’), French for “Crepe
from China,” is similar to Silk Crepe, but lighter weight
and less textured fabric made with S and Z highly
twisted filament yarns alternating in the weft and with a
normally twisted filament warp. The matte surface and
pebbled texture of this graceful fabric reflect individual

5. pinpoints of light, giving it wonderful chromatic depth
and striking eye-appeal. This luxurious silk has the
additional virtues of great durability and excellent
wrinkle resistance. Lightweight with a pleasing drape,
designers choose it among silk fabrics for elegant
slacks, skirts, dresses, suits, and eveningwear.
Crepe Fabric
A fabric characterized by a crinkled, puckered or
pebbly surface with highly twisted yarns in the weft and
sometimes in the warp or both. Crepe is usually made
with a plain weave. The crinkly texture of this soft and
pliable fabric can be smooth or quite rough. The fabric
is woven from all of the major fibers, natural or man-
made. Surface textures range from fine, flat crepes to
pebbled and mossy effects; some surfaces resemble
tree bark.
Crepe Silk
Silk Crepe is a luxurious fabric with a good sheen and
a pebbly texture obtained by using high twist yarns. Silk
Crepe has a beautiful drape, and is extensively used to
make dresses, slacks, skirts, lightweight suits, bridal
gowns, and evening wear.
Crepe Yarn
Highly twisted yarn generally with 1200 to 4000 tpm
(twists per meter) used for producing crepe effect in
woven or knit fabrics.
Crepe/Geogette
Yarn
Twisted yarn usually with 2000 to 3600 tpm (twists per
meter), generally made of two threads of raw silk.
Crepon
A dress fabric in crepe but heavier and more rugged
than the average crepe. It is usually made with silk or
rayon. The crepe effect appears in the direction of the
warp and is produced either by different degrees of
twist in the yarn, or by employing only right-or left-hand
twist yarns, or by weaving some warp yarns slacker
than others.
Croissure
A technique of twisting raw silk over itself in the
process of reeling with the object of consolidating the
different filaments constituting raw silk rounding off the
angularities of the thread and squeezing off the extra
moisture and gum.
Cuite
Nett silk from which the gum has been completely
removed. Also called Bright silk.
Damask
A heavy jacquard fabric woven in silk, linen, cotton,
worsted wool and man-made fibers. Traditionally
woven with an 8 and 8 satin weave. The reversible

6. pattern is distinguished from the background by
contrasting luster. The word derives from a rich silk
fabric introduced into Europe through Damascus.
Degumming
The process of removing natural gum or sericin from
silk yarn or fabric by boiling in a soap solution.
Denier
A unit of measure by which silk yarn is weighed and its
fineness calculated. This unit expresses the linear
mass density of silk filaments (or manmade fibers and
yarns) given by weight / mass in grams per 9000
meters of material. In the International System of Units,
the Tex is used instead of denier.
Double Cocoon
A cocoon jointly built by two silkworms; it serves as
protective shell for both the worms during their pupal
stage of existence. Such cocoons are readily
distinguished by their size and toughness.
Doubling
The twisting together of two or more silk threads to give
a yarn suitable for weaving, knitting etc. etc.
Douppion Yarn
Silk formed by two worms united to spin a single
cocoon which is therefore composed of two filaments.
Reeled into a coarse slubby yarn which is used in the
manufacture of douppioni, pongee, shantung, and
other textured silks.
Douppioni (also
called Doupioni,
Dupion, Dupioni)
Douppioni Silk is a lustrous silk often woven from two
different colors of threads, so that it shimmers or
changes color in the light. Douppioni is made from an
irregular, rough silk reeled from double cocoons or
cocoons nested together, making it necessary to reel
them together. [Doupioni is also seen in man-made
fibers such as polyester or acetate, and is referred to
as Doupionini.] An elegant woven fabric made with a
tight plain weave, fine warp yarns, filling yarns that form
prominent, irregular crosswise ribs. Usually brightly
colored, it has a moderately crisp drape, fairly reflective
luster, and a nubby texture. It is crisp to the touch; it
doesn’t wrinkle badly; nor does it hold a crease well.
Douppioni is sturdy and substantial, but not durable. It
is reversible, not particularly stretchy, and relatively
easy to sew. It is commonly used to make blouses,
dresses, skirts, and fine lightweight suits.
Advantages & Disadvantages of Dupion Silk

7. Dressing (Silk)
In the spun silk industry, the process of sorting out
fibers into groups of different lengths. Neps and Noils
are also removed during the process.
Dupatta
An Indian term for a kind of fine long women’s scarf or
shawl made from cotton or silk.
Dupionni
Other related terms: dupion, douppioni, shantung;
fabric containing slubs, uneven; forms when two silk
worms make their cocoons at the same time thus
joining together.
Embroidery Silk
A loosely twisted silk or man made fiber yarn
composed of untwisted or single yarns.
Evenness
The degree of evenness of raw silk panels with
approximately the same length as the sizing skein,
determined on the basis of incidence of evenness
defects by using official standard photographs for
evenness and official standard variation photographs.
Evenness defects are those portions of raw silk which
show stripes caused by the variations in the size of the
raw silk to such a degree as is easily noticeable by
visual inspection. Evenness is expressed as
percentage.
Faille
A soft ribbed silk with wider ribs than seen in grosgrain
ribbon. Slightly glossy.
Fibril (Silk)
An extremely fine filament produced by the longitudinal
splitting of a normal silk filament or brin.
Fibroin (Silk)
The fiber material of raw silk thread, which is a protein
not soluble in boiling water. It constitutes about 80
percent of silk fiber. Mulberry leaves eaten by the
silkworm get transformed into this semi-liquid protein
called fibroin.
Filament
A fiber of indefinite or extreme length, e.g., silk
filament, which runs from 300 to 1200 meters.
Filature
An establishment for the production of raw (reeled) silk
from cocoons, employing modern techniques, such as
steam for heating and power for driving the reels.
Floss Silk
Loose silk from the outer part of the cocoon, which is
retained before reeling is started and used in the
production of spun silk. It is of low grade and is
available only in small quantities. It is also known as
Blaze (in French). The term floss is also applied to soft

8. silk yarn or singles without twist, used in embroidery
and electrical insulation of wires.
Four Ply Silk
Four ply silk is a heavier version of silk crepe made
with four ply yarn. A four ply yarn is made from twisting
together four individual yarn strands. The resulting
fabric is medium to heavy weight, smooth and flat, with
a crepe finish and a good deal of luster. The fabric
tailors and drapes beautifully and is a favorite for bridal
usage.
Frison
French term for the silk waste brushed from the outer
layer of cocoons prior to reeling. Such waste is also
described as strusa (Italian), knubs (English), and
kibizzo (Japan and China).
Gabardine (Silk)
Silk gabardine is a dressy smooth twill weave fabric,
characterized by the distinct diagonal line on the fabric.
Faintly lustrous, it has a beautiful drape, resists
wrinkles, but creases well. Durable and crisp,
gabardine is most often used for skirts, slacks and
suits. Easy to sew, doesn’t show pin marks. Does
unravel, so seams should be finished.
Gauze (Silk)
Silk gauze is a sheer, thin open weave fabric
sometimes confused with organza. Silk organza is
heavier and crisper. As it so unds, silk gauze is more
loosely woven, and fairly floppy. Unlike its cotton
cousin, silk gauze is not used for bandages.
Georgette
A sheer crepe silk, heavier than chiffon and with a
crinkle surface.
Georgette Silk
Fine, lightweight, plain weave, crêpe fabric, usually
having two highly twisted S and two highly twisted Z
yarns alternately in both warp and weft. Made of crepe
yarn, silk georgette has a grainy texture, a sheer feel,
and a thin, very dry hand. It is heavier than chiffon, and
is similar to silk crepe, but is not as soft or lustrous as
crepe. Georgette is durable, but snags easily. Drapes
very fluidly, and falls into soft ripples. With its creped
surface, this sheer and strong silk fabric is great for
blouses, bias-cut flared skirts, evening wear, dresses,
and scarves. Doesn’t show pin marks, and doesn’t hold
a crease. Relatively difficult to sew.
Grade (Silk)
Classification of raw silk on the basis of tests carried
out according to standard methods in silk conditioning
houses. The qualities taken into consideration are

9. winding, size, tenacity, elongation, evenness,
cleanness, neatness, and cohesion.
Grainage
An institution where silkworm seed is produced and
sold to rearers.
Grant Reel
A method of reeling a skein of raw silk in which the
yarn makes definite and regular crossings, differing
from yarn reeled in parallel rows.
Green Cocoons Cocoons containing live pupae.
Gum Silk
Thrown silk from which gum or sericin has not been
removed.
Gum Sports
Hard unwindable places in skeins of raw silk or in silk
waste, due to the presence (at the time of production)
of excessive amounts of moisture, which causes the
gum to soften and then harden to an aggregated mass
of filaments and gum.
Gum Waste
Bits of silk collected as waste in the re-reeling of raw
silk at the filatures or during throwing and weaving.
Called Strazza in Italian or Brourre in French.
Habutai Silk
Habutai is a Japanese word meaning “soft as down.”
Habutai is a plain weave of silk, originally hand woven
of single warp yarns and filling yarns of hand-reeled
silk, which made it slightly irregular. Habutai usually
has a natural, ecru color, and is known to wrinkle less
than other fabrics. Both Habutai and China silk are soft,
lightweight and lustrous. Very closely related, both
have a soft graceful drape, and a smooth surface. This
silk is the “hand” or touch that many people identify as
silk. Habutai is natural in color, sheer and ivory, and
China silk is smoother and usually dyed. Seams may
pull open on tightly fitted garments. Sews relatively
easily, and doesn’t show pins marks. It is best for
lingerie, dresses, blouses, and light jackets.
Hankie (also called
Mawata Square)
Textile material in coiled form. After cocoons have
been partially degummed, the fibers are expanded and
stretched by hand over a frame forming approximate
10″ squares. Handspinners use this form of fiber to
make yarn.
Imago
Imago is the last (adult) stage of development of an
insect, after the last ecdysis (moulting) of an
incomplete metamorphosis, or after emergence from
the pupae where the metamorphosis is complete. As
this is the only stage that is sexually mature and has

10. functional wings in winged species, the imago is often
referred to as the adult stage. The Latin plural of imago
is imagines, and this is the term generally used by
entomologists. However, imagos is also acceptable.
Jacquard
A special fabrication in which a pattern is woven
directly into the material. A device for weaving such
elaborate designs by a machine was invented between
1801 and 1810 by Joseph Marie Jacquard (1752
1834). The Jacquard mechanism is attached to a loom
and operated by a punched card system which selects
individual warp threads. A variety of mechanically
operated jacquard machines exist providing control
over 100, 200, 400 or 600 ends. There are also
Jacquard systems for knitting machines. Jacquard
systems can now be electronically controlled.
Kamdani
An Indian term for fine fabric with ornamentation made
with gold and silver threads.
Kashmere Silk
Silk fabric made with 2/1 right hand twill weave that
gives a soft finish.
Larva
A larva (Latin; plural larvae) is a juvenile form of animal
with indirect development, undergoing metamorphosis
(for example, insects or amphibians). The larva can
look completely different from the adult form, for
example, a caterpillar differs from a butterfly. Larvae
often have special (larval) organs which do not occur in
the adult form. The larvae of some species can
become pubescent and not further develop into the
adult form (for example, in some newts). This is called
neoteny.
Lousy Silk
(Lousiness)
A defect in silk yarns or fabrics consisting of little
specks caused by the fibers splitting and curling up i.e.,
fibrillation of the silk filaments. This forms small neps
that, in dyed fabric, are evident as white specks.
Matelasse
Has raised woven designs, usually jacquard, with the
appearance of puckered or quilted.
Matka
Matka is an Indian term for rough handloom silk fabric
made from very thick yarns spun out of pierced cocoon
in the weft and organzine in warp. The yarns are
obtained from short ends of silk from Mulberry
silkworms (Bombyx mori) and spun by hand without
removing the gum (sericin). As such, there are slubs
and irregularities that give the fabric a unique

11. character. It looks something like tweed, but the fibers
are all the same color. Matka sews easily and is good
for suits, jackets, and furnishings.
Momme Weight
Unit of measurement traditionally used to describe
weight of silk fabric. Mommes express the weight in
pounds, of a piece of material of size 45 inches by 100
yards. Alternatively, according to the definition, a one
momme piece of silk fabric 25 yards x 1.49 inches (an
area of 1341 square inches or about 0.8652 square
meter) would weigh 3.75 grams. This makes the silk
momme equal to about 3.62 grams per squar e yard or
4.33 grams per square meter. The word momme is
pronounced “mummy” and is indicated by the symbol
“mm.” The higher the momme number the heaver the
fabric and the more silk that was used in the production
of that piece of fabric.
Monovoltine Cocoon
Sometimes referred to as univoltine. A breed of
mulberry silkmoth that produces only one generation
per year. Found in temperate regions, this breed
hatches only in the spring.
Moulting (Skin
Shedding)
Silkworms moult (shed their skins) four times from a
silkworm into a larger silkworm and then once more
when fully grown into a pupa within the cocoon.
Moulting is a vulnerable time for silkworms and is
usually indicated by worms staying still for long periods
of time without feeding and the head becoming very
small. Silkworms should not be disturbed at this time.
They will eventually shed the skin, rest for a while, and
then begin feeding again.
Muga
The common name of the Antherea assama caterpillar
which eats the leaves of the Som tree (machilus
bombycine) or Soalu (litsaea polyantha). This is a wild
caterpillar reared in Assam, India. The silk produced is
golden in color.
Muga Cloth
A fabric woven using Muga Silk in warp and weft,
mainly produced in Assam, India.
Mulberry
Common name of the Morus alba tree, which is the
sole food of the Bombyx mori silk producing caterpillar.
It is a hardy perennial tree and yields silk mainly of
yellow, white, or greenish yellow color.

12. Multivoltine
Cocoons
Also called polyvoltine. Cocoons built by a silkworm
race with more than two generations (life cycle) in a
year.
Narrow Fabric
Woven fabri c generally not exceeding 45 cm (18 in) in
width.
Native Silk
Native silk is a very coarse silk yarn in the order of
30/35 denier and 56/70 denier, generally reeled from
inferior cocoons. The reeling process is the same as in
the case of raw silk.
Neatness
The degree of neatness of raw silk panels, determined
on the basis of incidence of defects which are smaller
that those classified as ‘minor cleanness defects’ by
using official standard photographs for neatness.
Neatness is expressed as percentage.
Neps
Small bundle of tangled undeveloped fibers. The
undeveloped fibers do not take dyestuff, and thus neps
appear as small white dots in fabric. Normally used in
the plural, as you seldom find just one nep.
Nett Silk
Raw silk filaments or strands which have been
processed into yarns by twisting or folding, or both.
Noil (Silk)
Silk Noil (sometimes incorrectly called raw silk) comes
from the use of very short fibers (called, appropriately,
‘silk noils’) to weave the fabric. The short fibers are
separated from the long fibers during combing in the
fiber preparatory processes before spinning. Noil has a
nubby feel with a low sheen. It resembles cotton in
surface texture and sews easily. When these short
fibers are spun into yarns, the resulting yarns have
occasional slubs and specks that add to its appeal.
Nubs vary between different weaves. Sportier in
appearance, noil has the look of hopsack but is much
softer. Higher quality noil yarns are easy to use. It is a
good practice to tug on a noil yarn to be sure of its
practicality as a warp. The majority of plied noils can be
used for warp but most single-ply noil yarns are too
easily broken to withstand warping, though work well
as weft. Noil has the strongest silk odor due to
impurities in the yarn. The majority of the smell
dissipates after washing, but can return again when
wet. [The word Noil actually refers to fiber length, but is
casually and usually used to refer to silk fabric made
from short fibers.]

13. Organza Silk
Silk Organza is a sheer, thin open-weave fabric that is
heavier and crisper than silk gauze. It has a smooth,
flat finish, is strong and durable, and gets its stiffness
from tightly twisted yarns. Often used as the base
fabric for embellished fabrics. This plain weave sheer
silk is made with a loose plain weave and tightly twisted
yarns that have 10 to 20 turns per inch. Organza is
similar to cotton organdy except it is made with silk and
is transparent. Organza has a crisp drape, which
requires special sewing techniques for seams, facings,
and hems because they can be seen from the outside
of the garment. It is mostly used for interfacing, veils,
and undergowns.
Peau de Soie (also
called Duchess
Satin)
French for ‘skin of silk,’ Peau de Soie is a stout, soft
silk with fine cross ribs. A medium weight fabric with
satiny finish, it looks like Charmeuse, but Peau de Soie
has a moderately stiff drape. Used in evening wear,
bridal gowns, and elegant dresses. Sews easily, but
pins and needles leave marks.
Pongee
A plain woven, thin, naturally tan silk fabric that has a
rough weave effect.
Poult de soie Sometimes called faille taffeta. It has heavy cross ribs.
Pupa
A pupa (Latin pupa for doll, pl: pupae or pupas) is the
life stage of some insects undergoing transformation.
The pupal stage is found only in holometabolous ,
those that undergo a complete metamorphosis, going
through four life stages; embryo, larva, pupa and
imago. The pupae of different groups of insects have
different names such as chrysalis in the Lepidoptera
and tumbler in mosquitoes. Pupae may further be
enclosed in other structures such as cocoons, nests or
shells.
Raw Silk
Continuous filaments of silk, with no twist, which have
been reeled from cocoons but are unprocessed and
still containing sericin.
Reeled Silk Yarn
Reeled, or filament, silk is the highest quality yarn and
is very white and shiny. Cocoons are inspected and
sorted, as only those with a perfect shape can be used
for the reeling procedure. Cocoons are soaked in warm
water to soften the gummy sericin. The silken strand
from a single cocoon is too fine to use alone, so
individual filaments of 6-20 cocoons are unraveled at

14. the same time, traveling through a very small eye. The
softened sericin dries, hardens and binds the strands
together to become one thread the size of a human
hair. The majority of reeled silks supply large industrial
looms.
Schappe Silk
Spun (not reeled) silk yarns that have been degummed
by a lengthy and very smelly fermentation process.
Scroop
The peculiar scrunching or rustling sound silk acquires
when treated with certain organic acids (such as acetic
and formic acid).
Sericin (also called
Silk Gum)
A sticky protein material that coats the fiber filaments
as they are extruded from the silkworm’s spinnerets.
This gum bonds the filaments of silk together and aids
in the formation of the cocoon.
Sericteries
Modified salivary glands or silk glands on the
mouthpart of the larvae.
Sericulture Rearing of silkworms for the production of raw silk.
Shantung (Silk)
A douppioni type of silk that comes from Shantung
province in China. This fabric is woven from wild silk,
and comes with slubs and a subtle sheen.
Shot Silk
A fabric wove n with different colored warp and weft
thread so as to make a tinted or iridescent appearance.
Silk Broadcloth
A plain weave silk fabric in various weights; crisper
than china silk. Often used in shirting.
Silk linen
Has a nubby yarn in a plain weave. Weights range from
light to heavy. It is different from dupion in that the
nubby runs both lengthwise and crosswise. The look of
linen with the characteristics of linen.
Silk Road
The Silk Road, or Silk Route, is a name given to an
interconnected series of trade routes through various
regions of the Eurasian continent mainly connecting
Chang’an (today’s Xi’an) in China, with Asia Minor and
the Mediterranean. It extends over 8,000 km (5,000
miles) on land and sea. Trade on the Silk Route was a
significant factor in the development of the great
civilizations of China, ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia,
Persia, India and Rome, and helped to lay the
foundations for the modern world.
Silk satin A satin weave with a plain back.
Skein
Long coils of yarn or hair intended for weaving, dyeing,
or heat setting. Bulk yarn is sold in skeins that often

15. need to be re-wound into spools or balls depending on
the application. A skein is not a specific unit of length.
Spinneret
Glandular opening on the silkworm where the silk is
extruded.
Spun Silk
Short silk threads that are spun together to form a
longer filament; a lower quality silk often seen in the so
called “washable silk” class
Spun Silk Yarn
The weak filament of the transparent silken envelope
remaining from the reeling process – as well as the
damaged, discolored, or imperfectly shaped cocoons –
become the raw material for lustrous, creamy colored
spun silk yarn. This cocoon “waste” must first have the
sericin removed (degummed) with soap and water.
Next, the fiber is cut into uniform lengths and carded to
remove short tangled bits as well as the brown pupa
inside the cocoons. Combing lays all the fibers parallel
in a sliver which is spun into a shimmering yarn. Spun
silk is the most familiar yarn made available to
handworkers.
Thrown Silk
Silk thread consisting of two or more singles twisted
together like a rope, in a direction contrary to that in
which the singles of which it is composed are twisted.
Thrown Singles
Silk thread or cord made by three processes of
twisting; first into single s, two or more of which are
twisted together making dumb singles, and several of
these twisted together to make thrown singles.
Tram
Tram is medium twisted thread formed by twisting 2 to
3 silk yarns together with low twists of l00 to l50 tpm
(twists per meter). It is moderately strong, soft, has a
good hand (feel), and is mostly used as weft.
Tussah (also called
Tussar, Tasar,
Tussore)
A medium to heavy weight silk made from free-range
(Woo Hoo) wild silkworms of the Antheraea mylitta or
Antheraca proylei species. The warp and weft yarns of
this plain weave silk fabric are very different, giving
tussah the look of woven grasses. Tussah is relatively
uneven, has small lumps and is less lustrous than
cultivated silk. It does however tend to be stronger,
perhaps because it is a somewhat thicker fiber.
Because of tannin-rich diet, Tussah is almost always a
natural brown color. But it does dye well, and is good
for suits, jackets, and home decoration. Sews easily
but may unravel, so finished seams are advisable. The

16. name Tussah is also associated with the Antheraea silk
producing caterpillar. This caterpillar is raised in the
forested regions of China, Korea and India, and has a
different diet from its Bombyx mori cousin – relying
mostly on Arjun tree (terminalia arjun), Asan (terminalia
tomentosa), and Oak (querus). Tussah silkworms are
protected and harvested in jungles and forests by
indigenous peoples in Asia. These silkworms seem to
have rejected all attempts at total domestication.
Tussah fibers are derived from cocoons collected after
the moth has emerged naturally in the field, and are a
little coarser than the cultivated Bombyx mori. Whether
they are reared in the tropics or temperate climate, the
leaves they eat contain tannin, the ingredient in tea that
leaves a stain in your cup. The natural color of tussah
silk is, therefore, warm honey beige.
Twill (Silk)
Made from silk yarns woven in a twill weave which
gives the fabric a soft hand and high durability, making
the fabric ideal for sportswear. Used in blouses, skirts,
and dresses. Twill, a textile weave in which the filling
threads pass over one and under two or more warp
threads to give an appearance of diagonal lines. Twill is
very strong and soil resistant with an appearance of
fine diagonal lines. This is one of the three basic
textiles weaves, producing a fabric with a diagonal rib,
ridge, or wale.
Velvet (Silk)
Silk velvet is a soft, elegant fabric that looks and feels
expensive. It drapes better than other velvet, falling
close to the body. The silk velvet mostly available is silk
rayon combination: rayon pile on a silk base (often in
an 80-20 ratio respectively). 100% silk velvet is rare
and expensive.
Washable Silk
This is a term of recent creation. It normally refers to a
light weight silk such as “china silk” (see above) and is
not considered suitable for outer garments. It lacks the
qualities of a long filament silk. However, it is popular
for artist who hand paint scarfs and clothing. (Note:
most silks are generally considered washable.
Weighted Silk
The practice formerly used to compensate for the loss
of the sericin weight during silk processing. Usually
done with tin salts. This causes the fabric to be brittle
and wear badly.

17. Wild Silk Production
Wild silk is obtained from cocoons that silkworms
produce in a natural uncontrolled environment. The
most common type of wild silk is Tussah Silk. Tussah
silk is dark in color, coarse in texture and cannot be
bleached. Duppioni is another type of wild silk.
Duppioni silk is produced when two silkworms spin
cocoons that ar e joined together.
Source: https://www.pandasilk.com/silk-glossary/