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EWBC 2012 Izmir, Turkey Natural Wine Discussion Panel

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There is no such thing as "Natural Wine". There is no official definition, no established certification body. Labelling wine as “natural” in the EU and many other countries is not permitted. Despite this, producers, merchants, pundits and consumers use the term. Is “Natural Wine” a passing fad or a veritable movement? Dr. Jame Goode, Virgile Joly, Maurizio Ugliano, and Robert Joseph discuss. Julia Sevenich moderates

Published in: Education

EWBC 2012 Izmir, Turkey Natural Wine Discussion Panel

  1. 1. Natural Wine Discussion Panel Dr. Jamie Goode Virgile Joly Dr. Maurizio Ugliano Robert Josephmoderated by Julia Sevenich Julia7ich.com
  2. 2. "the term ‘natural’ raises hackles because of the connotationsof the work; ie it implies that other wines are somehow UN-natural, or generally worse or inferior (and not necessarily justfrom a technical or tasting point of view).” Fabio Bartolomei Vinos Ambiz“How can I list ‘natural’ wines? My customers will just ask‘what about the rest of the wines you sell?” Max Margaritoff, Hawesko Leading German distributor
  3. 3. Just a few of my favourite“unnatural” wines
  4. 4. “Natural” is a creepy marketing term
  5. 5. “Almost all the natural wines I’ve tasted have [the expression of grape and place]marred by one fault or another” David Gleave MW Isabelle Legeron, RAW Wine Fair Most people don’t actually “celebrate” Epoisses. They hate it. They also prefer non-cloudy apple juice
  6. 6. Classic (ancient) winemaking Lead Concentrated must Honey Marble dust Seawater Herbs Pine resin Conventional (non-”natural”) winemakingSugar Chaptalisation – as found in almost all great old Bordeaux and BurgundyAcid As used in some great New World (and some Old World) winesWater Greeks thought undiluted wine was unhealthySulphur Used by Romans and legal in Germany since 1487 – and responsible for keeping this wine alive…
  7. 7. What is “Natural Wine”? • a category? • a fad? • a movement? • an illusion?
  8. 8. Dr. Jamie Goodewineanorak.com
  9. 9. Natural wineDoes it need to be defined? NoIt is an alignment of like-minded producersdrawn to a causeNetworks of relationship important: acounterculture movement
  10. 10. Natural wine positivesCelebrating diversity and terroirInteresting wines with personality andoften challenging flavoursHas influenced mainstream wine for thebetter
  11. 11. Natural wine negativesBriefing against mainstream wineProcess focusedThe ‘naturalistas’
  12. 12. www.domainevirgilejoly.com @virgile_jolywww.facebook.com/DomaineVirgil.eJoly
  13. 13. A simple farmerOnly a few words of English An artisan
  14. 14. Saint Saturnin - Terrasses du Larzac - Languedoc
  15. 15. Wine - a natural product! OIV basic definitionWine is the beverage resulting exclusively from thepartial or complete alcoholic fermentation of fresh grapes (whether crushed or not), or grape must.
  16. 16. PERMITTED INTERVENTIONS GRAPES PROTECTION SO2 CORRECTION ACIDITY SUGAR ENZYMESFERMENTATION ORIENTATION YEAST BACTERIA FOOD AGEING PROTECTION SO2 WOOD BOTTLING PROTECTION SO2 CORRECTION ACIDITY SUGAR
  17. 17. • wild yeast• cultivated • wild yeast • no acid yeast • acid correction• acid • SO2 • low SO2• SO2 • manual • manual• machine or harvest harvest manual • -20% AOP • manual press harvest yield • -40% AOP• AOP yield yield
  18. 18. Natural Wines• Expensive• Difficult to protect• Difficult to transport• Difficult to talk about• My bank manager doesn’t like them
  19. 19. WINE IS NATURALITS NOT MADE BY IDEALS, BUT BY WORK WINE IS FASHION AND LUXURY
  20. 20. Dr. Maurizio Uglianonormacorc.com
  21. 21. Natural wines: the point of view of wine bugs VinegarMicrobes (yeast and bacteria) are an intrinsic component of winemakingBut not all bugs are created equal: some are good, some are less good
  22. 22. SCENARIO 1 Natural fermentation So all yeasts and bacteria are by default ‘natural’? Well…. some yeast will participate. Very natural, not necessarily the same wine all the time, not always good wine SCENARIO 2 Less ‘natural’ but more consistent Most likely a pretty good wineIsolate the supposedly ‘good’ Use it to make wine Too much ‘the same yeast and manufacture it wine’? industrially
  23. 23. SCENARIO 3 Happens in nature randomly Most likely a pretty good wine Cross breed different yeasts to Use it to make wine Too much ‘the samemake a super-yeast; manufacture wine’? it industrially SCENARIO 4 Probably not natural Genetically modified ? yeast
  24. 24. But why there is so muchinterest in manufactring andusing commercial wine bugs if they exist in nature? • Stuck fermentations • Acetic off-flavors • Brettanomyces • Reductive off-odors Well…. • Higher risk of oxidation • Too much batch to batch diversity
  25. 25. Making a ‘natural’ wine without these issues by means of ‘natural’ fermentation means eliminating the ‘bad’ yeasts, in situ X Natural fermentationUse of sulfite is the most convenient way…. But not so natural, huh?
  26. 26. A few thoughts by Robert Joseph
  27. 27. "the term ‘natural’ raises hackles because of the connotationsof the work; ie it implies that other wines are somehow UN-natural, or generally worse or inferior (and not necessarily justfrom a technical or tasting point of view).” Fabio Bartolomei Vinos Ambiz“How can I list ‘natural’ wines? My customers will just ask‘what about the rest of the wines you sell?” Max Margaritoff, Hawesko Leading German distributor
  28. 28. Just a few of my favourite“unnatural” wines
  29. 29. “Natural” is a creepy marketing term
  30. 30. “Almost all the natural wines I’ve tasted have [the expression of grape and place]marred by one fault or another” David Gleave MW Isabelle Legeron, RAW Wine Fair Most people don’t actually “celebrate” Epoisses. They hate it. They also prefer non-cloudy apple juice
  31. 31. Classic (ancient) winemaking Lead Concentrated must Honey Marble dust Seawater Herbs Pine resin Conventional (non-”natural”) winemakingSugar Chaptalisation – as found in almost all great old Bordeaux and BurgundyAcid As used in some great New World (and some Old World) winesWater Greeks thought undiluted wine was unhealthySulphur Used by Romans and legal in Germany since 1487 – and responsible for keeping this wine alive…

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