This presentation briefly illustrates visual and tactile texture in fashion design. Also, it introduces the general woven fabric structure and textile fibers.

1. F A S H I O N D E S I G N
D E S I G N E L E M E N T : T E X T U R E
B A S I C F A B R I C S T R U C T U R E
1 4 . 0 3 . 2 0 1 8

2. • THE DESIGN ELEMENTS: TEXTURE AND LIGHT:
• The ability to see texture is related to light and to what extent a
material reflects or absorbs it.
• A surface with shine is often so smooth that it reflects great deal
of light. A matte surface by contrast is non reflective.

3. • TEXTURE AND LIGHT AS THE DESIGN ELEMENTS :
• Today we will see how design element texture applies in fashion design
• Everything has a surface - in other words a texture!

4. • There are two types of texture for all design
disciplines /forms:
• TACTILE TEXTURE (the result of our touch)
and VISUAL TEXTURE (our visual perception
of the surface)

5. • TACTILE TEXTURE is the ACTUAL TEXTURE (or PHYSICAL
TEXTURE) ; in other words it is the form the surface takes which
causes the sensation when it is touched. It is the feel of a
surface! Ex: Van Gogh’s The Starry Night// The texture of his
brush strokes give a sense of movement, maybe some wind..

6. • TACTILE TEXTURE: Van Gogh : The wheat field in rain

8. • These were all natural tactile
textures. When we see the
children in fur; what they
wear has tactile texture for
them and their grandma.
• For us; since we can only
see the photo but can not
touch the fur; the photo
represents visual texture.
• When we draw fur in our
fashion illustrations; we
communicate the tactile
quality of texture and we
create a visual texture.

9. • Visual texture and simulated texture; they tell the visual quality of the surface. It is
an illusion of texture crated by the designer.
• The material is manipulated to give an impression of a texture ; yet the surface of
material remains soft and smooth. So it is basically an illusion or a representation.
• Visual texture is the faithful rendering of a real texture; in the extreme it causes a
deception like in tromp l’oeil paintings !!

10. • Visual texture can be created by
photography,

11. • Visual texture can be created by drawings;

12. • Visual texture can be created by printing;…No matter how rough the surface
looks , the paper or material is always smooth in Visual texture

13. • Visual and tactile texture are displayed with some fabric
swatches along the drawings in your research books.

14. • TEXTURE IS DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE
QUALITY AND STRUCTURE OF FABRIC
MANIPULATION :
• TEXTURE = STRUCTURAL ELEMENTS OF
FABRIC

15. • TEXTURE = STRUCTURAL ELEMENTS OF FABRIC ;
• They are 1-FIBER (lif) + 2-YARN (iplik) + 3-FABRIC
CONSTRUCTION(kumaş yapısı) + 4-FINISHING(bitim işlemleri)
• 1-FIBER (lif) is the unit of matter that has various
quality of fineness, flexibility, a high ratio of length
to thickness. Long fibers are called filaments.

16. • Two groups of fibers are NATURAL and MAN
MADE FIBERS

18. COTTON FIBER

19. WOOL FIBER

20. FLAX FIBER _ LINEN

21. HEMP FIBER

22. MOHAIR (top) and ANGORA(bottom) FIBERS

23. ACYRLIC FIBER - artificial wool

25. NAYLON FIBER

26. • how to tell the content of fiber?
• The burning test:
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kb4tCcnA
6jo

27. • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKAJTKvl0nE
• (spinning yarn 2.20-2.40)
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPtmIM_WmEo
• (kirmen)
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-ViQinJOKE
• (iplikçilik- yarn industry)
• YARN is the result of fibers spun
together in order to form its
structure
• YARN TWIST(iplik bükümü)
influences fabric strength + color +
texture. The number of strands that
a yarn has twisted together is the
yarn twist. The strands are called
PLY

28. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0wh2TUyhQ0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b0wh2TUyhQ0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZrQ5iOnGJQ

29. • Fabric construction has the biggest impact on texture. It is the
method to interlace fibrious yarns into a flat fabric. Fabric construction
can be made by;
• WEAVING (dokuma)
• KNITTING (örme)
• FELTING (keçeleştirme)
• CROCHETING (Tığ işi)
• MACRAME (makrame düğümü)
• LACE (dantel)

30. For weaving we need two groups of yarns interlacing in
right angle. The yarns that run from the front to back of
the loom are called the WARP(çözgü). Yarns that are
crossing the warps are called the WEFT(atkı).

31. There are 3 main weave structure - binding that
effect the texture of fabric:
1-PLAINWEAVE
2-TWILL
3-SATIN

32. PLAINWEAVE - bezayağı dokuma - düz dokuma

33. TWILL WEAVE - Dimi dokuma

34. SATIN WEAVE - Saten dokuma

36. Twill is mostly used in denim and gabardine. Satin is used fo
The direction of the warp and weft is primary in determination ho
Warp - grain is also important for aesthetic judgement.

37. Balenciaga’s passion for structural cloth and ornate embroideries during, and after WWII, lead him to develop the silk
gazar. Teaming up with Swiss textile firm Abraham, he took the lighter silks already used in his tailoring, baby doll
frocks and eveningwear, and made them sturdier.
The gazar was thicker and more pliable, and boasted a high-twist double yarn, which was then woven into one,
giving the material crisp and smooth texture. Balenciaga featured silk gazar in his women’s wear collections for
most of the Sixties.
It was especially useful for bridal gowns, with the gazar’s lightweight, moulding qualities instilling shape into Balenciaga’s
architectural wedding dresses, featuring prominently in at the end of the decade.

38. • silk gazar is a stiff woven fabric of pure silk, stronger than
a double or triple organza, and crinkly to touch. Lanvin,
Fausto Sarli and Ferre used it. ex:also K. Middleton’s
wedding gown by Sarah Burton for A. McQueen

39. • A KNIT is another type of fabric structure where needles are used
to form a series of interconnecting loops from one or more yarns
or a set of yarns. This process enables the fabric to be more
flexible, wrinkle resistant and strechy. A knit is less durable and
stable than a weave. T-Shirts; sweaters; with only fewer sizes are
used in industry.

41. lets look at other textures!!