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DENIMIST	
  2011	
                              DNMSTDENIMDESINGFASHIONARTLIFE	
  




        ENZYME


                                   DB
                                   DENIM BOOK


                 D     E   N   I           M      I        S           T
DB
                                                                                             DENIM B O O K




                                          DENIMIST
                                                          T U R K E Y	
  




Since	
   decades	
   Denimist	
   has	
   developed	
   know-­‐how	
   in	
   denim	
   finishing	
   prior	
   to	
  
garment	
   manufacturing	
   and	
   also	
   in	
   jeans	
   washing.	
   Our	
   customers	
   derive	
  
benefit	
   from	
   this	
   experience.For	
   the	
   fabric	
   production	
   we	
   offer	
   finishing	
  
chemicals	
   which	
   provide	
   the	
   demanded	
   fabric	
   properties	
   such	
   as	
   good	
  
sewability,	
   stiffness,elasticity	
   and	
   handle.	
   The	
   other	
   field	
   of	
   our	
   activity	
   is	
   the	
  
recommendation	
   of	
   laundring	
   Procedures	
   for	
   ready-­‐made	
   clothing	
   such	
   as	
  
trousers,	
  jackets	
  or	
  skirts,	
  shirts.	
  

In	
   doing	
   so	
   we	
   have	
   learned	
   that	
   many	
   errors	
   may	
   occur	
   in	
   this	
   complicated	
  
production	
   process.	
  The	
   laundry,	
   the	
   last	
   step	
   in	
   the	
   sequence	
   of	
  	
   producers,	
   is	
  
faced	
   to	
   difficulties	
   which	
   are	
   caused	
   by	
   previous	
   inaccuracies.	
   Therefore,	
   a	
  
good	
   cooperation	
   among	
   the	
   steps	
   of	
   jeans	
   manufacturing	
   is	
   required	
   to	
   avoid	
  
problems.	
  Fabric	
  producer,	
  garment	
  manufacturer	
  and	
  laundries	
  have	
  to	
  work	
  
together	
   to	
   obtain	
   the	
   desired	
   end	
   result.	
   By	
   means	
   of	
   our	
   contacts	
   on	
   both	
  
sides	
  of	
  the	
  production	
  process	
  we	
  are	
  able	
  to	
  make	
  our	
  contribution.	
  

The	
   technical	
   stuff	
   of	
   Denimist	
   	
   is	
   always	
   ready	
   to	
   help	
   our	
   customers	
   with	
  
eventual	
   problems	
   and	
   to	
   modify	
   production	
   procedures	
   according	
   to	
   the	
  
respective	
   requirements.	
  Through	
   our	
   numerous	
   contacts	
   which	
   we	
   have	
   got	
  
with	
  denim	
  producers,	
  garment	
  manufacturers	
  and	
  laundries	
  during	
  the	
  years	
  
we	
  support	
  the	
  team	
  work	
  among	
  all	
  sections	
  of	
  the	
  jeans	
  chain	
  and	
  make	
  our	
  
know-­‐how	
  	
  available	
  to	
  all	
  of	
  the	
  parties	
  concerned	
  	
  
DB
                                                                                               DENIM B O O K




WHAT	
  ARE	
  ENZYMES	
  

Enzymes	
   are	
   proteins.	
   Like	
   other	
   proteins,	
   enzymes	
   consist	
   of	
   long	
   chains	
   of	
  
amino	
   acids	
   held	
   together	
   by	
   peptide	
   bonds.	
  They	
   are	
   present	
   in	
   all	
   living	
   cells,	
  
where	
   they	
   perform	
   a	
   vital	
   function	
   by	
   controlling	
   the	
   metabolic	
   processes	
  
whereby	
   nutrients	
   are	
   converted	
   into	
   energy	
   and	
   fresh	
   cell	
   material.	
  
Furthermore,	
  enzymes	
  take	
  part	
  in	
  the	
  breakdown	
  of	
  food	
  material	
  into	
  simpler	
  
compounds.	
  Some	
  of	
  the	
  best	
  known	
  enzymes	
  are	
  those	
  found	
  in	
  the	
  digestive	
  
tract	
   where	
   pepsin,	
   trypsin	
   and	
   peptidases	
   breakdown	
   proteins	
   into	
   amino	
  
acids,	
   lipases	
   split	
   fats	
   into	
   glycerol	
   and	
   fatty	
   acids,	
   and	
   amylases	
   breakdown	
  
starch	
  into	
  simple	
  sugars.	
  
DBDENIM B O O K


Enzymes	
  are	
  basically	
  biocatalysts.	
  Enzymes	
  are	
  capable	
  of	
  performing	
  these	
  
tasks	
   because,	
   unlike	
   food	
   proteins	
   such	
   as	
   egg	
   albumin,	
   gelatine	
   or	
   soya	
  
protein,	
   they	
   help	
   to	
   catalyze	
   reactions.	
   This	
   means	
   that	
   by	
   their	
   mere	
  
presence,	
  and	
  without	
  being	
  consumed	
  in	
  the	
  process,	
  enzymes	
  can	
  speed	
  up	
  
chemical	
  processes	
  that	
  would	
  otherwise	
  run	
  very	
  slowly,	
  if	
  at	
  all	
  

ENZYME	
  PROPERTIES	
  

1.	
  Enzymes	
  are	
  specific	
  

Contrary	
  to	
  inorganic	
  catalysts	
  such	
  as	
  acids,	
  bases,	
  metals	
  and	
  metal	
  oxides,	
  
enzymes	
   are	
   very	
   specific.	
   In	
   other	
   words,	
   each	
   enzyme	
   can	
   breakdown	
   or	
  
synthesize	
  one	
  particular	
  compound.	
  In	
  some	
  cases,	
  they	
  limit	
  their	
  action	
  to	
  
specific	
   bonds	
   in	
   the	
   compound	
   with	
   which	
   they	
   react.	
   Most	
   proteases,	
   for	
  
instance,	
  can	
  breakdown	
  several	
  types	
  of	
  protein,	
  but	
  in	
  each	
  protein	
  molecule	
  
only	
  certain	
  bonds	
  will	
  be	
  cleaved	
  depending	
  on	
  which	
  enzyme	
  is	
  used.	
  	
  

2.	
  Enzymes	
  are	
  very	
  efficient	
  catalysts	
  

For	
  example,	
  the	
  enzyme	
  catalase,	
  which	
  is	
  found	
  abundantly	
  in	
  the	
  liver	
  and	
  
in	
  the	
  red	
  blood	
  cells,	
  is	
  so	
  efficient	
  that	
  in	
  one	
  minute	
  one	
  enzyme	
  molecule	
  
can	
  catalyze	
  the	
  breakdown	
  of	
  five	
  million	
  molecules	
  of	
  hydrogen	
  peroxide	
  to	
  
water	
  and	
  oxygen.	
  

3.	
  Origin	
  -­‐	
  natural	
  source	
  

Enzymes	
  are	
  present	
  in	
  all	
  biological	
  systems.	
  They	
  come	
  from	
  natural	
  systems	
  
and	
  when	
  they	
  are	
  degraded,	
  the	
  amino	
  acids	
  of	
  which	
  they	
  are	
  made	
  of	
  can	
  
be	
  readily	
  absorbed	
  back	
  into	
  nature.	
  	
  

4.	
  Enzymes	
  work	
  only	
  on	
  renewable	
  raw	
  material	
  	
  

Fruits,	
   cereals,	
   milk,	
   fats,	
   meat,	
   cotton,	
   leather	
   and	
   wood	
   are	
   some	
   typical	
  
candidates	
   for	
   enzymatic	
   conversion	
   in	
   industry.	
   Both	
   the	
   usable	
   products	
   and	
  
the	
  waste	
  of	
  most	
  enzymatic	
  reactions	
  are	
  non-­‐toxic	
  and	
  readily	
  broken	
  down.	
  
DB
                                                                                            DENIM B O O K


HOW	
  ENZYMES	
  WORK	
  

In	
   enzymatic	
   reactions,the	
   molecule	
   at	
   the	
   beginning	
   of	
   the	
   	
   process	
   is	
   called	
  
substrate	
  .	
  
While	
   this	
   molecule	
   is	
   changed	
   into	
   the	
   final	
   molecule	
   called	
   substate	
   its	
   self-­‐	
  
structure	
  doesn’t	
  change.As	
  long	
  as	
  the	
  enzymes	
  keep	
  their	
  activation,this	
  	
  
reactions	
  repeats.	
  	
  	
  

The	
  relation	
  between	
  the	
  ezyme	
  and	
  the	
  substrate	
  is	
  similar	
  with	
  the	
  lock-­‐key	
  
relation.	
  
Just	
  like	
  1	
  key	
  opens	
  1	
  door	
  lock,there	
  is	
  1	
  specific	
  enzyme	
  for	
  1	
  substrate.E.g.	
  
catalaze	
   enzymes	
   are	
   for	
   peroxide	
   and	
   do	
   not	
   damage	
   tocellulose	
   while	
  
breaking	
   peroxide.Cellulases	
   also	
   do	
   not	
   damage	
   peroxide	
   while	
   breaking	
  
cellulose.	
  	
  
DB
                                                                                  DENIM B O O K




CRITICAL	
  POINTS	
  OF	
  USING	
  ENZYMES	
  

•            There	
  are	
  some	
  parameters	
  to	
  be	
  cautious	
  	
  
•            About	
  enzymatic	
  processes.	
  
•    	
  	
  Ph	
  
•    	
  	
  Temperature	
  
•  	
  	
  Time	
  
•  	
  	
  Inactivators	
  such	
  as	
  heavy	
  metals	
  
DB
                                                                                                   DENIM B O O K


NEED	
  OF	
  ENZYMES	
  IN	
  THE	
  TEXTILE	
  INDUSTRY	
  	
  

The	
   textile	
   processing	
   industry	
   is	
   classified	
   into	
  Textile	
   Fabric	
   Processing	
   and	
  
Wet	
  Garment	
  Processing	
  to	
  give	
  various	
  finishes	
  to	
  fabric	
  different	
  auxiliaries,	
  
polymers,	
  dyes,	
  specialty	
  chemicals	
  are	
  being	
  used	
  abundantly.	
  These	
  chemical	
  
sare	
  hazardous	
  in	
  nature.	
  	
  
Many	
  of	
  them	
  are	
  carcinogenic	
  and	
  very	
  dangerous	
  to	
  handle,	
  putting	
  life	
  at	
  	
  
risk.	
  Most	
  of	
  them	
  are	
  not	
  eco-­‐friendly.	
  Due	
  to	
  such	
  hazards,	
  the	
  government	
  	
  
and	
  regulatory	
  bodies	
  are	
  banning	
  textile	
  processing	
  using	
  such	
  chemicals	
  or	
  	
  
the	
  release	
  of	
  waste	
  liquor	
  into	
  nature.	
  The	
  use	
  of	
  	
  enzymes	
  is	
  the	
  ONLY	
  	
  
feasible	
  solution	
  to	
  counteract	
  such	
  problems	
  faced	
  by	
  	
  industrialists	
  today.	
  

Enzymes	
  can	
  be	
  used	
  to	
  replace	
  hazardous	
  chemicals,	
  thus	
  saving	
  energy	
  and	
  
preventing	
   pollution.	
   They	
   are	
   also	
   highly	
   specific,	
   which	
   means	
   fewer	
  
unwanted	
   side	
   effects	
   and	
   creation	
   of	
   by-­‐products	
   in	
   the	
   production	
   process.	
  
Enzymes	
  themselves	
  are	
  biodegradable,	
  so	
  they	
  are	
  readily	
  absorbed	
  back	
  into	
  
nature.	
  	
  

The	
  advantages	
  of	
  enzymes	
  being	
  used	
  in	
  textile	
  industry	
  are	
  as	
  below:	
  	
  

•    	
  	
  Increasing	
  the	
  speed	
  of	
  reactions.	
  
•    	
  	
  They	
  ensure	
  the	
  reactions	
  to	
  be	
  happening	
  in	
  mild	
  conditions.	
  
•    	
  	
  Enzymes	
  provide	
  the	
  possibilities	
  of	
  the	
  control	
  of	
  the	
  processes.	
  	
  
•            Natural	
  and	
  biologically	
  degradeableç	
  

ENZYMATIC	
  DESIZING	
  OF	
  COTTON	
  FABRIC	
  

	
  Although	
  many	
  different	
  compounds	
  have	
  been	
  used	
  to	
  size	
  fabric	
  over	
  the	
  	
  
years,	
  starch	
  has	
  been	
  the	
  most	
  common	
  sizing	
  agent	
  for	
  more	
  than	
  a	
  century	
  	
  
and	
  this	
  is	
  still	
  the	
  case	
  today,	
  though	
  use	
  of	
  PVA	
  and	
  gums	
  is	
  on	
  the	
  rise.	
  After	
  	
  
DB
                                                                                                 DENIM B O O K


weaving,	
  the	
  size	
  must	
  be	
  removed	
  to	
  prepare	
  the	
  fabric	
  for	
  the	
  finishing	
  steps	
  	
  
of	
  bleaching	
  or	
  dyeing.	
  Enzymes	
  are	
  used	
  for	
  desizing	
  woven	
  fabrics	
  because	
  of	
  	
  
their	
  highly	
  efficient	
  and	
  specific	
  way	
  of	
  desizing	
  without	
  harming	
  the	
  yarn	
  .	
  
As	
   an	
   example,	
   desizing	
   on	
   a	
   jigger	
   is	
   a	
   simple	
   method	
   where	
   the	
   fabric	
   from	
  
one	
   roll	
   is	
   processed	
   in	
   a	
   bath	
   and	
   re-­‐wound	
   on	
   another	
   roll.	
   First,	
   the	
   sized	
  
fabric	
   is	
   washed	
   in	
   hot	
   water	
   (80-­‐	
   95°C)	
   to	
   gelatinise	
   the	
   starch.	
  The	
   desizing	
  
liquor	
  is	
  then	
  adjusted	
  to	
  pH	
  5.5-­‐7.5	
  and	
  a	
  temperature	
  of	
  60-­‐80°Cdepending	
  on	
  
the	
   enzyme.	
  The	
   fabric	
   then	
   goes	
   through	
   an	
   impregnation	
   stage	
   before	
   the	
  
amylase	
  is	
  added.	
  Degraded	
  starch	
  in	
  the	
  form	
  of	
  dextrins	
  is	
  then	
  removed	
  by	
  
washing	
  at	
  90-­‐95°C	
  for	
  two	
  minutes.	
  The	
  jigger	
  process	
  is	
  a	
  batch	
  process.	
  

By	
  contrast,	
  in	
  modern	
  continuous	
  high-­‐speed	
  processes,	
  the	
  reaction	
  time	
  for	
  
the	
  enzyme	
  may	
  be	
  as	
  short	
  as	
  15	
  seconds.	
  De	
  sizing	
  on	
  pad	
  rolls	
  is	
  continuous	
  
in	
  terms	
  of	
  the	
  passage	
  of	
  the	
  fabric.	
  However,	
  a	
  holding	
  time	
  of	
  2-­‐16	
  hours	
  at	
  
20-­‐60°C	
   is	
   required	
   using	
   low-­‐temperature	
   alpha-­‐	
   amylases	
   before	
   the	
   size	
   is	
  
removed	
   in	
   washing	
   chambers.	
   With	
   high-­‐temperature	
   amylases,	
   de	
   sizing	
  
reactions	
   can	
   be	
   performed	
   in	
   steam	
   chambers	
   at	
   95-­‐100°C	
   or	
   even	
   higher	
  
temperatures	
  to	
  allow	
  a	
  fully	
  continuous	
  process.	
  

Denilase	
  TITAN	
  

Denim	
  fabric	
  is	
  a	
  yarn	
  dyed	
  fabric	
  .	
  It	
  is	
  dyed	
  as	
  hank	
  Dyeing	
  and	
  then	
  weaved.	
  	
  	
  
Sizes	
  are	
  applied	
  on	
  the	
  fabric	
  to	
  avoid	
  the	
  breaking	
  and	
  the	
  dusting	
  due	
  to	
  the	
  	
  
high	
  speed	
  	
  and	
  	
  friction	
  of	
  the	
  shuttle.	
  	
  	
  

For	
  this	
  purpose	
  ,	
  synthetic	
  sizing	
  substances	
  are	
  used	
  such	
  as	
  CMC	
  or	
  starch	
  	
  
and	
  	
  Its	
  derivatives.	
  The	
  crucial	
  point	
  of	
  washing	
  starts	
  from	
  here	
  because	
  for	
  a	
  	
  
crease-­‐free	
  and	
  abrasion-­‐free	
  washing	
  ,	
  the	
  sizing	
  Substances	
  must	
  be	
  taken	
  off.	
  	
  	
  	
  

This	
  process	
  is	
  easy	
  on	
  synthetic	
  sizing	
  substances	
  as	
  They	
  will	
  be	
  removed	
  by	
  	
  
Washing.But	
  when	
  starch	
  based	
  sizes	
  are	
  used,	
  The	
  situation	
  will	
  Be	
  changed	
  as	
  	
  
starch	
  is	
  Insoluble	
  in	
  water	
  and	
  must	
  Be	
  broken.	
  For	
  this	
  process	
  alfa	
  -­‐	
  amylase	
  	
  
enzymes	
  are	
  	
  wildly	
  used.	
  	
  	
  
DBDENIM B O O K




De	
  sizing	
  enzymes	
  are	
  obtained	
  from	
  bacterias	
  and	
  sensitive	
  to	
  pH	
  and	
  	
  	
  
temperature	
  .Otherwise	
  they	
  can	
  not	
  be	
  properly	
  activated.	
  Denılase	
  TITAN	
  can	
  	
  
arrange	
  its	
  pH	
  in	
  water	
  but	
  still	
  the	
  pH	
  of	
  the	
  bath	
  is	
  needed	
  	
  to	
  be	
  arranged	
  	
  
Between	
  6-­‐7.5	
  	
  Denılase	
  TITAN	
  is	
  effected	
  by	
  temperature	
  as	
  	
  below.	
  	
  

In	
  this	
  point	
  there	
  is	
  a	
  very	
  crutial	
  point	
  which	
  is	
  to	
  be	
  very	
  careful	
  about	
  	
  
the	
  steaming	
  contacting	
  the	
  enzyme,otherwise	
  the	
  enzyme	
  loses	
  its	
  activation.	
  	
  	
  

Denılase	
  TITAN	
  is	
  most	
  effective	
  at	
  the	
  temperature	
  of	
  	
  55-­‐90°C	
  but	
  for	
  a	
  	
  
Controlled	
  process	
  the	
  recommended	
  temperature	
  is	
  55-­‐60°C.	
  	
  	
  

Desizing	
  Recipe	
  

0.5	
  -­‐	
  1	
  g/L	
  	
  Denilase	
  TITAN	
  (	
  amylase	
  enzyme	
  )	
  
0.5	
  -­‐	
  1	
  g/L	
  	
  Deniwet	
  	
  ZEN	
  	
  (	
  wetting	
  	
  agent	
  )	
  	
  
0.5	
  -­‐	
  1	
  g/L	
  	
  Denispers	
  DISPER	
  (	
  dispersing	
  	
  agent	
  )	
  

Temp	
  :	
  55-­‐60	
  °C	
  
pH	
  :	
  6.5	
  -­‐	
  7	
  
Time	
  	
  :	
  10	
  min	
  	
  

If	
   you	
   thınk	
   alfa	
   amylases	
   as	
   key	
   theır	
   lock	
   ıs	
   starch.	
   they	
   change	
   the	
   form	
   of	
  
starchto	
  a	
  water	
  soluable	
  structure	
  	
  	
  	
  
The	
  maın	
  dıfference	
  at	
  alfa	
  amylases	
  ıs	
  temparature	
  stabılıty.	
  so	
  we	
  can	
  classıfy	
  
alfa	
  amylases	
  as	
  termo-­‐stabıl	
  and	
  non-­‐termo	
  stabıl	
  groups.	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  
DBDENIM B O O K


ENZYMES	
  FOR	
  DENIM	
  FINISHING	
  

Most	
   denim	
   jeans	
   or	
   other	
   denim	
   garments	
   are	
   subjected	
   to	
   a	
   wash	
   treatment	
  
to	
   give	
   them	
   a	
   slightly	
   worn	
   look.	
   In	
   the	
   traditional	
   stonewashing	
   process,	
   the	
  
blue	
   denim	
   is	
   faded	
   bythe	
   abrasive	
   action	
   of	
   lightweight	
   pumice	
   stones	
   on	
   the	
  
gar-­‐	
   ment	
   surface,	
   which	
   removes	
   some	
   of	
   the	
   dye.	
   However,	
   too	
   much	
  
abrasion	
  can	
  damage	
  the	
  fabric,	
  particularly	
  hems	
  and	
  waistbands.	
  	
  

This	
  is	
  why	
  denim	
  finishers	
  today	
  use	
  cellulases	
  to	
  accelerate	
  the	
  abrasion	
  by	
  
loosening	
   the	
   indigo	
   dye	
   on	
   the	
   denim.	
   Since	
   a	
   small	
   dose	
   of	
   enzyme	
   can	
  
replace	
   several	
   kilograms	
   of	
   stones,	
   the	
   use	
   of	
   fewer	
   stones	
   results	
   in	
   less	
  
damage	
   to	
   garments,	
   less	
   wear	
   on	
   machines,	
   and	
   less	
   pumice	
   dust	
   in	
   the	
  
working	
   environment.	
   Productivity	
   canalso	
   be	
   increased	
   through	
   laundry	
  
machines	
  containing	
  few-­‐	
  er	
  stones	
  but	
  more	
  garments.	
  	
  
DB
                                                                                                  DENIM B O O K


With	
  a	
  stone-­‐free	
  process,	
  the	
  need	
  for	
  the	
  removal	
  of	
  dust	
  and	
  small	
  stones	
  
from	
   the	
   fin-­‐	
   ished	
   garment	
   is	
   reduced.	
   There	
   is	
   also	
   no	
   sediment	
   in	
   the	
  
wastewater,	
  which	
  can	
  otherwise	
  block	
  drains	
  

The	
   mode	
   of	
   action	
   of	
   cellulases	
   is	
   shown	
   in	
   Figure	
   3.	
   Denim	
   garments	
   are	
  
dyed	
   with	
   indigo,	
   which	
   adheres	
   to	
   the	
   surface	
   of	
   the	
   yarn.	
   The	
   cellulase	
  
molecule	
   binds	
   to	
   an	
   exposed	
   fibril(bundles	
   of	
   fibrils	
   make	
   up	
   a	
   fibre)	
   on	
   the	
  
surface	
  of	
  the	
  yarn	
  and	
  hydrolyses	
  it,	
  but	
  leaving	
  the	
  interior	
  part	
  of	
  the	
  cotton	
  
fibre	
  intact.	
   When	
  the	
  cellulases	
  partly	
  hydrolyse	
  the	
  surface	
  of	
  the	
  fibre,	
  the	
  
indigo	
  is	
  partly	
  removed	
  and	
  light	
  areas	
  are	
  created.	
  	
  

Both	
  neutral	
  cellulases	
  acting	
  at	
  pH	
  6-­‐8	
  and	
  acid	
  cellulases	
  acting	
  at	
  pH	
  4-­‐6	
  are	
  
used	
   for	
   the	
   abrasion	
   of	
   denim.	
   There	
   are	
   a	
   number	
   of	
   cellulases	
   available,	
  
each	
   with	
   its	
   own	
   spe-­‐	
   cial	
   properties.	
  These	
   can	
   be	
   used	
   either	
   alone	
   or	
   in	
  
combi-­‐	
   nation	
   in	
   order	
   to	
   obtain	
   a	
   specific	
   look.	
   Practical,	
   ready-­‐to-­‐	
   use	
  
formulations	
  containing	
  enzymes	
  are	
  available.	
  	
  
Application	
   research	
   in	
   this	
   area	
   is	
   focused	
   on	
   preventing	
   or	
   enhancing	
  
backstaining	
   depending	
   on	
   the	
   style	
   required.	
   Backstaining	
   is	
   defined	
   as	
   the	
  
redeposition	
  of	
  released	
  indigo	
  onto	
  the	
  garments.	
  	
  	
  

This	
  effect	
  is	
  very	
  important	
  in	
  denim	
  fin-­‐	
  ishing.	
  Backstaining	
  at	
  low	
  pH	
  values	
  
(pH	
   4-­‐6)	
   is	
   relatively	
   high,	
   whereas	
   it	
   is	
   significantly	
   lower	
   in	
   the	
   neutral	
   pH	
  
range.	
   Neutral	
   cellulases	
   are	
   therefore	
   often	
   used	
   when	
   the	
   objective	
   is	
  
minimal	
  backstaining	
  	
  	
  

Enzymes	
  have	
  opened	
  up	
  new	
  possibilities	
  in	
  denim	
  finishing	
  by	
  increasing	
  the	
  
variety	
   of	
   finishes	
   available.	
   For	
   example,	
   it	
   is	
   now	
   possible	
   to	
   fade	
   denim	
   to	
   a	
  
greater	
  degree	
  without	
  running	
  the	
  risk	
  of	
  damaging	
  the	
  garment.The	
  denim	
  
industry	
  is	
  driven	
  by	
  fashion	
  trends.	
  	
  

The	
  various	
  cellulases	
  available	
  for	
  modifying	
  the	
  surface	
  of	
  denim	
  give	
  fashion	
  
designers	
   a	
   pallet	
   of	
   possibilities	
   for	
   creating	
   new	
   shades	
   and	
   finishes.	
   The	
  
combination	
  of	
  new	
  looks,	
  lower	
  costs,	
  shorter	
  treatment	
  times	
  and	
  less	
  solid	
  
waste	
  has	
  made	
  abrasion	
  with	
  enzymes	
  the	
  most	
  widely	
  used	
  fading	
  process	
  
today.	
   Incidentally,	
   since	
   the	
   denim	
   fabric	
   is	
   always	
   sized,	
   the	
   complete	
  
process	
  also	
  includes	
  desizing	
  of	
  the	
  denim	
  gar-­‐	
  ment.	
  	
  
DB
                                                                                               DENIM B O O K




CELLULASES	
  FOR	
  THE	
  BIOPOLISHING	
  OF	
  COTTON	
  FABRIC	
  AND	
  LYOCELL	
  

Cotton	
  and	
  other	
  natural	
  and	
  man-­‐	
  made	
  cellulosic	
  fibres	
  can	
  be	
  improved	
  by	
  
an	
   enzymatic	
   treatment	
   called	
   Biopolishing.	
   The	
   main	
   advantage	
   of	
   Bio-­‐	
  
polishing	
  is	
  the	
  prevention	
  of	
  pilling.	
  Cellulases	
  hydrolyse	
  the	
  microfibrils	
  (hair	
  
or	
  fuzz)	
  protruding	
  from	
  the	
  surface	
  of	
  yarn	
  because	
  they	
  are	
  most	
  susceptible	
  
to	
   enzymatic	
   attack.	
   This	
   weakens	
   the	
   microfibrils,	
   which	
   tend	
   to	
   break	
   off	
  
from	
  the	
  main	
  body	
  of	
  the	
  fibre	
  and	
  leave	
  a	
  smoother	
  yarn	
  surface.	
  A	
  ball	
  of	
  
fuzz	
  is	
  called	
  a	
  'pill'	
  in	
  the	
  textile	
  trade.	
  These	
  pills	
  can	
  present	
  a	
  serious	
  quality	
  
problem	
   since	
   they	
   result	
   in	
   an	
   unattractive,	
   knotty	
   appearance.	
   After	
  
biopolishing,	
  the	
  fabric	
  shows	
  a	
  much	
  lower	
  pilling	
  tendency.	
  	
  
DBDENIM B O O K


Other	
  benefits	
  of	
  removing	
  fuzz	
  are	
  Cotton	
  and	
  other	
  natural	
  and	
  man-­‐	
  made	
  
cellulosic	
   fibres	
   can	
   be	
   improved	
   by	
   an	
   enzymatic	
   treatment	
   called	
   Bio	
  
polishing.	
  The	
   main	
   advantage	
   of	
   Bio-­‐	
   polishing	
   is	
   the	
   prevention	
   of	
   pilling.	
  
Cellulases	
  hydrolyse	
  the	
  microfibrils	
  (hair	
  or	
  fuzz)	
  protruding	
  from	
  the	
  surface	
  
of	
  yarn	
  because	
  they	
  are	
  most	
  susceptible	
  to	
  enzymatic	
  attack.	
  This	
  weakens	
  
the	
  microfibrils,	
  which	
  tend	
  to	
  break	
  off	
  from	
  the	
  main	
  body	
  of	
  the	
  fibre	
  and	
  
leave	
  a	
  smoother	
  yarn	
  surface.	
  A	
  ball	
  of	
  fuzz	
  is	
  called	
  a	
  'pill'	
  in	
  the	
  textile	
  trade.	
  
These	
   pills	
   can	
   present	
   a	
   serious	
   quality	
   problem	
   since	
   they	
   result	
   in	
   an	
  
unattractive,	
  knotty	
  appearance.	
  	
  

After	
   bio	
   polishing,	
   the	
   fabric	
   shows	
   a	
   much	
   lower	
   pilling	
   tendency.	
   Other	
  
benefits	
   of	
   removing	
   fuzz	
   are	
   a	
   softer,	
   smoother	
   feel	
   and	
   superior	
   colour	
  
brightness.	
   Unlike	
   conventional	
   softeners,	
   which	
   tend	
   to	
   be	
   washed	
   out	
   and	
  
often	
  result	
  in	
  a	
  greasy	
  feel,	
  the	
  softness-­‐enhancing	
  effects	
  of	
  bio	
  polishing	
  are	
  
washproof	
   and	
   non-­‐greasy.	
   For	
   cotton	
   fabrics,	
   the	
   use	
   of	
   bio	
   polishing	
   is	
  
optional	
  for	
  upgrading	
  the	
  fabric.	
  However,	
  bio	
  polishing	
  is	
  almost	
  essential	
  for	
  
the	
   new	
   polynosic	
  	
   fibre	
   lyocell	
   (the	
   leading	
   make	
   is	
   known	
   by	
   the	
   trade	
   name	
  
Tencel®).	
  Lyocell	
  is	
  made	
  from	
  wood	
  pulp	
  and	
  is	
  characterised	
  by	
  a	
  tendency	
  
to	
  fibrillate	
  easily	
  when	
  wet.	
  In	
  simple	
  terms,	
  fibrils	
  on	
  the	
  surface	
  of	
  the	
  fibre	
  
peel	
   up.	
   If	
   they	
   are	
   not	
   removed,	
   finished	
   garments	
   made	
   with	
   lyocell	
   will	
   end	
  
up	
  covered.	
  	
  
DB
                                                                                                   DENIM B O O K


in	
   pills.	
   This	
   is	
   the	
   reason	
   why	
   lyo	
   cell	
   fabric	
   is	
   treated	
   with	
   cellulases	
   during	
  
finishing.	
   Cellulases	
   also	
   enhance	
   the	
   attractive,	
   silky	
   appearance	
   of	
   lyocell.	
  
Lyocell	
  was	
  invented	
  in	
  1991	
  by	
   Courtaulds	
   	
  Fibres	
  (now	
  Acordis,	
  part	
  of	
  Akzo	
  
Nobel)	
  and	
  at	
  the	
  time	
  was	
  the	
  first	
  new	
  man-­‐made	
  fibre	
  created	
  in	
  30	
  years	
  

CELLULOSE	
  ENZYMES	
  (	
  	
  STONE	
  AND	
  ANTI-­‐PILLING	
  ENZYMES	
  	
  )	
  	
  

They	
  are	
  used	
  for	
  making	
  the	
  surface	
  of	
  the	
  fabric	
  smoother	
  and	
  	
  giving	
  	
  stone	
  
affect	
  on	
  denim	
  fabrics.	
  

Cellulase	
   enzyme	
   is	
   not	
   only	
   a	
   single	
   enzyme	
   but	
   an	
   enzyme	
   which	
   is	
  	
   working	
  
on	
  polymeric	
  cellulose	
  molecule.	
  The	
  synergic	
  movement	
  of	
  these	
  2	
  cellulose	
  
types	
   on	
   cotton	
   fibres	
   	
   in	
   convenient	
   conditions	
   continues	
   till	
   the	
   cellulose	
   is	
  
completely	
  soluble	
  in	
  water.	
  	
  

But	
   this	
   is	
   not	
   required	
   practically.	
   Perfect	
   control	
   in	
   applications	
   ensure	
  
perfect	
  effects.	
  

The	
  parameters	
  which	
  effect	
  the	
  desired	
  affects	
  are;machine	
  type	
  ,liquor	
  
ratio	
  ,machine	
  rpm	
  ,the	
  hardness	
  of	
  the	
  water,deactivation	
  substances	
  in	
  
water,	
  yarn	
  quality,structure	
  of	
  the	
  fabric,gsp	
  of	
  the	
  fabric.	
  	
  

NEUTRAL	
  CELLULOSE	
  ENZYMES	
  (	
  STONE	
  ENZYMES	
  )	
  

Denilase	
  COLD	
  
Denilase	
  HOT	
  

Neutral	
  Cellulases	
  :	
  Active	
  at	
  pH	
  6-­‐8	
  	
  

• 	
  	
  	
  Less	
  effective	
  than	
  Acid	
  cellulases	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  Less	
  bleeding	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  pH	
  6	
  -­‐	
  8.0	
  
•  They	
  remove	
  the	
  indigo	
  by	
  effecting	
  the	
  surface	
  of	
  the	
  denim	
  	
  
•  They	
  break	
  the	
  fibres	
  on	
  the	
  surface	
  of	
  the	
  	
  fabric	
  	
  
•  They	
  make	
  the	
  surface	
  of	
  the	
  fabric	
  lighter	
  	
  
DBDENIM B O O K


ACID	
  CELLULASE(	
  BIOPOLISHING	
  )	
  

Denipill	
  ANNY	
  	
  
Denipill	
  AP	
  CONC	
  
Denipill	
  AP	
  
Denipill	
  DP	
  100	
  	
  
Denipill	
  DP	
  200	
  	
  

They	
  are	
  used	
  for	
  getting	
  a	
  better	
  surface	
  on	
  the	
  fabric.They	
  have	
  different	
  
names	
  in	
  different	
  application	
  points.	
  

• 	
  	
  	
  Anti	
  Pill	
  Wash	
  	
  	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  De-­‐pill	
  Wash	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  Flat	
  Wash	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  Biopolishing	
  	
  	
  	
  	
  

• 	
  	
  	
  Bioplolishing	
  processes	
  are	
  done	
  by	
  acid	
  	
  cellulases.	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  Operating	
  between	
  	
  ph	
  4.5	
  –	
  5.5	
  	
  	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  They	
  attack	
  on	
  cellulose	
  and	
  break	
  them	
  on	
  their	
  weakest	
  point.	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  Usually	
  in	
  liquid	
  form	
  and	
  buffer-­‐free.	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  Their	
  activation	
  must	
  be	
  ended	
  at	
  the	
  end	
  	
  of	
  the	
  process;	
  

By	
  using	
  alkali	
  or	
  increasing	
  the	
  temperature	
  over	
  70	
  ºC	
  

Biofinish	
   is	
   becoming	
   more	
   popular	
   recently.The	
   advantages	
   of	
   this	
   process	
  
are;better	
   handle,smooth	
   fabric	
   surface,softness,less	
   pilling,	
   a	
   brighter	
   fabric	
  
surface.	
  	
  	
  

If	
   this	
   process	
   is	
   done	
   after	
   dyeing,as	
   large	
   dyestuff	
   molecules	
   are	
   bound	
   to	
  
cellulose	
   by	
   covalent	
   binds,the	
   efficiency	
   of	
   the	
   enzyme	
   falls	
   down	
   and	
   more	
  
quantity	
   of	
   enzyme	
   must	
   be	
   used	
   to	
   get	
   the	
   same	
   affects	
   at	
   the	
   same	
   period	
   of	
  
time.	
  	
  	
  
DB
                                                                                             DENIM B O O K



Biofinishing	
  can	
  cause	
  a	
  decrease	
  on	
  the	
  strength	
  and	
  weight	
  of	
  the	
  fabric.The	
  
amount	
  of	
  the	
  strength	
  loss	
  of	
  the	
  fibers	
  during	
  enzymatic	
  process	
  are	
  as	
  below:	
  	
  

Lyocell	
  <	
  viscon	
  <	
  cotton	
  <	
  linen	
  

Another	
   problem	
   for	
   the	
   tube	
   formed	
   fabrics	
   during	
   the	
   biopolishing	
   is	
   that	
  
undesired	
   fibers	
   are	
   collected	
   inner	
   side	
   of	
   the	
   fabric	
   and	
   can	
   cause	
   some	
   other	
  
problems	
  in	
  the	
  	
  
DBDENIM B O O K


LACCASE	
  ENZYME	
  

Denilase	
  AMON	
  
Denilase	
  AMON-­‐X	
  

• 	
  	
  	
  It	
  is	
  a	
  kind	
  of	
  enzymatic	
  bleaching	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  It	
  gives	
  lighter	
  shades	
  without	
  using	
  a	
  	
  bleaching	
  agent.	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  Gives	
  grey	
  cast.	
  
• 	
  	
  	
  Gives	
  high	
  contrast.	
  

No	
  strength	
  loss.	
  Indigo	
  dyestuff	
  becomes	
  soluble	
  in	
  water	
  by	
   	
  oxydoreductase	
  
(Denilase	
   AMON-­‐X)	
   and	
   can	
   be	
   removed	
   from	
   the	
   fabric	
   by	
   rinsing.	
   This	
  
process	
  must	
  be	
  supported	
  by	
  the	
  mediator	
  which	
  is	
  inside	
  of	
  the	
  product.	
  	
  

pH	
   5.5	
   –	
   6.5	
   is	
   required	
   for	
   bleaching	
   and	
   doesn’t	
   cause	
   any	
   problem	
   on	
   the	
  
leather	
  or	
  metallic	
  accsesories.	
  	
  
DBDENIM B O O K


But	
   this	
   enzyme	
   is	
   specific	
   for	
   Indigo	
   dyestuff.Sulphur	
   and	
   reactive	
   dyestuffs	
  
can	
  not	
  be	
  bleached	
  by	
  Denilase	
   AMON-­‐X	
  .As	
  the	
  enzyme	
  is	
  effective	
  for	
  the	
  
dyestuff,the	
  strength	
  loss	
  of	
  the	
  fabric	
  is	
  nearly	
   	
  Due	
  to	
  the	
  pH-­‐value	
  of	
  5.5	
  –	
  
6.5	
  which	
  is	
  necessary	
  for	
  this	
  bleaching	
  process	
  stickers	
  made	
  of	
  leather	
  and	
  
metal	
  are	
  treated	
  carefully	
  as	
  well	
  as	
  the	
  garment	
  itself.	
  Sulphur	
  and	
  reactive	
  
dyestuffs	
   are	
   not	
   affected	
   by	
   this	
   bleaching	
   system.	
   It	
   is	
   specific	
   to	
   indigo	
  
dyestuff.	
  This	
  means	
  there	
  is	
  no	
  attack	
  to	
  the	
  cotton	
  fibre	
  and	
  so	
  nearly	
  there	
  is	
  
no	
  loss	
  in	
  tensile	
  strength.	
  

Without	
  any	
  particular	
  after-­‐scouring	
  or	
  after-­‐bleaching	
  a	
  greyer	
  colour	
  shade	
  
compared	
   to	
   other	
   bleaching	
   systems	
   –	
   especially	
   chlorine	
   bleaching	
   -­‐	
   is	
  
obtained.	
  	
  
A	
  clearer	
  shade	
  may	
  be	
  achieved	
  by	
  after-­‐bleaching	
  with	
  hydrogen	
  peroxide.	
  It	
  
is	
  essential	
  to	
  rinse	
  and	
  wash	
  after	
  bleaching.	
  Then,	
  a	
  softener	
  is	
  applied	
  on	
  the	
  
garment	
  and	
  finished	
  as	
  normal	
  

When	
   compared	
   with	
   other	
   bleaching	
   processes	
   (especially	
   chlorite	
   process),it	
  
gives	
  a	
  greyer	
  cast	
  without	
  any	
  additional	
  washing	
  or	
  bleaching	
  processesIf	
  a	
  
brighter	
   and	
   more	
   specific	
   cast	
   is	
   required,an	
   additional	
   process	
   with	
   peroxide	
  
is	
  recommended.	
  	
  	
  

Rinsing	
  and	
  washing	
  is	
  done	
  after	
  the	
  bleaching	
   	
  and	
  then	
  softening	
  and	
  the	
  
other	
  finishing	
  processes	
  are	
  applied.	
  	
  

Laccase	
  Enzymes	
  Recipe:	
  
%	
  0,5	
  –	
  1	
  :	
  	
  Denilase	
  AMON	
  -­‐X	
  

pH.:5.5	
  	
  	
  
Temperature	
  :	
  	
  60	
  º	
  C	
  
20	
  -­‐	
  25	
  min.	
  
Drain	
  -­‐	
  Rinse	
  –	
  45	
  º	
  C	
  –	
  2	
  min	
  
DB
                                                                           DENIM BOOK




Head	
  Office	
     :	
     Kazimiye	
  Mah.	
  Karadeniz	
  Cad.	
  Kiliçoğlu	
  Al@n	
  Evler	
  No:	
  37/5/21	
  	
  Çorlu	
  /	
  Tekirdağ	
  /	
  TURKEY	
  
                           Ph:	
  90	
  282	
  673	
  62	
  40	
  	
  	
  Fax	
  :	
  90	
  282	
  673	
  59	
  75	
  
                           eyup@denimist.com.tr	
  
Factory	
          :	
     Motor	
  Yerleri	
  Mevkii	
  E-­‐5	
  Uzeri	
  Ulaş	
  /	
  Corlu	
  /	
  Tekirdag	
  /	
  TURKEY	
  
                           mustafa@denimist.com.tr	
  	
  
Pakistan	
         :	
     Plot	
  No:	
  2/C	
  Lane	
  No:	
  3	
  Itehad	
  Coom	
  Phase	
  –	
  VI	
  D.H.A	
  Karachi	
  /	
  PAKISTAN	
  
                           Ph:	
  92-­‐21-­‐37820980	
  –	
  35348720	
  	
  Cell	
  :	
  92-­‐300-­‐214430	
  
                           tanveer@denimist.com.tr	
  
Bangladesh	
       :	
     Road	
  36	
  ,	
  House	
  15,	
  F4,	
  Gulshan	
  2,	
  Dhaka	
  /BANGLADESH	
  
                           Cell:	
  8801741393879	
  
                           serkan@denimist.com.tr	
  

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Enzymes book

  • 1. d   n  m   o   k   6 e   i   b   o   DENIMIST  2011   DNMSTDENIMDESINGFASHIONARTLIFE   ENZYME DB DENIM BOOK D E N I M I S T
  • 2. DB DENIM B O O K DENIMIST T U R K E Y   Since   decades   Denimist   has   developed   know-­‐how   in   denim   finishing   prior   to   garment   manufacturing   and   also   in   jeans   washing.   Our   customers   derive   benefit   from   this   experience.For   the   fabric   production   we   offer   finishing   chemicals   which   provide   the   demanded   fabric   properties   such   as   good   sewability,   stiffness,elasticity   and   handle.   The   other   field   of   our   activity   is   the   recommendation   of   laundring   Procedures   for   ready-­‐made   clothing   such   as   trousers,  jackets  or  skirts,  shirts.   In   doing   so   we   have   learned   that   many   errors   may   occur   in   this   complicated   production   process.  The   laundry,   the   last   step   in   the   sequence   of     producers,   is   faced   to   difficulties   which   are   caused   by   previous   inaccuracies.   Therefore,   a   good   cooperation   among   the   steps   of   jeans   manufacturing   is   required   to   avoid   problems.  Fabric  producer,  garment  manufacturer  and  laundries  have  to  work   together   to   obtain   the   desired   end   result.   By   means   of   our   contacts   on   both   sides  of  the  production  process  we  are  able  to  make  our  contribution.   The   technical   stuff   of   Denimist     is   always   ready   to   help   our   customers   with   eventual   problems   and   to   modify   production   procedures   according   to   the   respective   requirements.  Through   our   numerous   contacts   which   we   have   got   with  denim  producers,  garment  manufacturers  and  laundries  during  the  years   we  support  the  team  work  among  all  sections  of  the  jeans  chain  and  make  our   know-­‐how    available  to  all  of  the  parties  concerned    
  • 3. DB DENIM B O O K WHAT  ARE  ENZYMES   Enzymes   are   proteins.   Like   other   proteins,   enzymes   consist   of   long   chains   of   amino   acids   held   together   by   peptide   bonds.  They   are   present   in   all   living   cells,   where   they   perform   a   vital   function   by   controlling   the   metabolic   processes   whereby   nutrients   are   converted   into   energy   and   fresh   cell   material.   Furthermore,  enzymes  take  part  in  the  breakdown  of  food  material  into  simpler   compounds.  Some  of  the  best  known  enzymes  are  those  found  in  the  digestive   tract   where   pepsin,   trypsin   and   peptidases   breakdown   proteins   into   amino   acids,   lipases   split   fats   into   glycerol   and   fatty   acids,   and   amylases   breakdown   starch  into  simple  sugars.  
  • 4. DBDENIM B O O K Enzymes  are  basically  biocatalysts.  Enzymes  are  capable  of  performing  these   tasks   because,   unlike   food   proteins   such   as   egg   albumin,   gelatine   or   soya   protein,   they   help   to   catalyze   reactions.   This   means   that   by   their   mere   presence,  and  without  being  consumed  in  the  process,  enzymes  can  speed  up   chemical  processes  that  would  otherwise  run  very  slowly,  if  at  all   ENZYME  PROPERTIES   1.  Enzymes  are  specific   Contrary  to  inorganic  catalysts  such  as  acids,  bases,  metals  and  metal  oxides,   enzymes   are   very   specific.   In   other   words,   each   enzyme   can   breakdown   or   synthesize  one  particular  compound.  In  some  cases,  they  limit  their  action  to   specific   bonds   in   the   compound   with   which   they   react.   Most   proteases,   for   instance,  can  breakdown  several  types  of  protein,  but  in  each  protein  molecule   only  certain  bonds  will  be  cleaved  depending  on  which  enzyme  is  used.     2.  Enzymes  are  very  efficient  catalysts   For  example,  the  enzyme  catalase,  which  is  found  abundantly  in  the  liver  and   in  the  red  blood  cells,  is  so  efficient  that  in  one  minute  one  enzyme  molecule   can  catalyze  the  breakdown  of  five  million  molecules  of  hydrogen  peroxide  to   water  and  oxygen.   3.  Origin  -­‐  natural  source   Enzymes  are  present  in  all  biological  systems.  They  come  from  natural  systems   and  when  they  are  degraded,  the  amino  acids  of  which  they  are  made  of  can   be  readily  absorbed  back  into  nature.     4.  Enzymes  work  only  on  renewable  raw  material     Fruits,   cereals,   milk,   fats,   meat,   cotton,   leather   and   wood   are   some   typical   candidates   for   enzymatic   conversion   in   industry.   Both   the   usable   products   and   the  waste  of  most  enzymatic  reactions  are  non-­‐toxic  and  readily  broken  down.  
  • 5. DB DENIM B O O K HOW  ENZYMES  WORK   In   enzymatic   reactions,the   molecule   at   the   beginning   of   the     process   is   called   substrate  .   While   this   molecule   is   changed   into   the   final   molecule   called   substate   its   self-­‐   structure  doesn’t  change.As  long  as  the  enzymes  keep  their  activation,this     reactions  repeats.       The  relation  between  the  ezyme  and  the  substrate  is  similar  with  the  lock-­‐key   relation.   Just  like  1  key  opens  1  door  lock,there  is  1  specific  enzyme  for  1  substrate.E.g.   catalaze   enzymes   are   for   peroxide   and   do   not   damage   tocellulose   while   breaking   peroxide.Cellulases   also   do   not   damage   peroxide   while   breaking   cellulose.    
  • 6. DB DENIM B O O K CRITICAL  POINTS  OF  USING  ENZYMES   •  There  are  some  parameters  to  be  cautious     •  About  enzymatic  processes.   •     Ph   •     Temperature   •     Time   •     Inactivators  such  as  heavy  metals  
  • 7. DB DENIM B O O K NEED  OF  ENZYMES  IN  THE  TEXTILE  INDUSTRY     The   textile   processing   industry   is   classified   into  Textile   Fabric   Processing   and   Wet  Garment  Processing  to  give  various  finishes  to  fabric  different  auxiliaries,   polymers,  dyes,  specialty  chemicals  are  being  used  abundantly.  These  chemical   sare  hazardous  in  nature.     Many  of  them  are  carcinogenic  and  very  dangerous  to  handle,  putting  life  at     risk.  Most  of  them  are  not  eco-­‐friendly.  Due  to  such  hazards,  the  government     and  regulatory  bodies  are  banning  textile  processing  using  such  chemicals  or     the  release  of  waste  liquor  into  nature.  The  use  of    enzymes  is  the  ONLY     feasible  solution  to  counteract  such  problems  faced  by    industrialists  today.   Enzymes  can  be  used  to  replace  hazardous  chemicals,  thus  saving  energy  and   preventing   pollution.   They   are   also   highly   specific,   which   means   fewer   unwanted   side   effects   and   creation   of   by-­‐products   in   the   production   process.   Enzymes  themselves  are  biodegradable,  so  they  are  readily  absorbed  back  into   nature.     The  advantages  of  enzymes  being  used  in  textile  industry  are  as  below:     •     Increasing  the  speed  of  reactions.   •     They  ensure  the  reactions  to  be  happening  in  mild  conditions.   •     Enzymes  provide  the  possibilities  of  the  control  of  the  processes.     •  Natural  and  biologically  degradeableç   ENZYMATIC  DESIZING  OF  COTTON  FABRIC    Although  many  different  compounds  have  been  used  to  size  fabric  over  the     years,  starch  has  been  the  most  common  sizing  agent  for  more  than  a  century     and  this  is  still  the  case  today,  though  use  of  PVA  and  gums  is  on  the  rise.  After    
  • 8. DB DENIM B O O K weaving,  the  size  must  be  removed  to  prepare  the  fabric  for  the  finishing  steps     of  bleaching  or  dyeing.  Enzymes  are  used  for  desizing  woven  fabrics  because  of     their  highly  efficient  and  specific  way  of  desizing  without  harming  the  yarn  .   As   an   example,   desizing   on   a   jigger   is   a   simple   method   where   the   fabric   from   one   roll   is   processed   in   a   bath   and   re-­‐wound   on   another   roll.   First,   the   sized   fabric   is   washed   in   hot   water   (80-­‐   95°C)   to   gelatinise   the   starch.  The   desizing   liquor  is  then  adjusted  to  pH  5.5-­‐7.5  and  a  temperature  of  60-­‐80°Cdepending  on   the   enzyme.  The   fabric   then   goes   through   an   impregnation   stage   before   the   amylase  is  added.  Degraded  starch  in  the  form  of  dextrins  is  then  removed  by   washing  at  90-­‐95°C  for  two  minutes.  The  jigger  process  is  a  batch  process.   By  contrast,  in  modern  continuous  high-­‐speed  processes,  the  reaction  time  for   the  enzyme  may  be  as  short  as  15  seconds.  De  sizing  on  pad  rolls  is  continuous   in  terms  of  the  passage  of  the  fabric.  However,  a  holding  time  of  2-­‐16  hours  at   20-­‐60°C   is   required   using   low-­‐temperature   alpha-­‐   amylases   before   the   size   is   removed   in   washing   chambers.   With   high-­‐temperature   amylases,   de   sizing   reactions   can   be   performed   in   steam   chambers   at   95-­‐100°C   or   even   higher   temperatures  to  allow  a  fully  continuous  process.   Denilase  TITAN   Denim  fabric  is  a  yarn  dyed  fabric  .  It  is  dyed  as  hank  Dyeing  and  then  weaved.       Sizes  are  applied  on  the  fabric  to  avoid  the  breaking  and  the  dusting  due  to  the     high  speed    and    friction  of  the  shuttle.       For  this  purpose  ,  synthetic  sizing  substances  are  used  such  as  CMC  or  starch     and    Its  derivatives.  The  crucial  point  of  washing  starts  from  here  because  for  a     crease-­‐free  and  abrasion-­‐free  washing  ,  the  sizing  Substances  must  be  taken  off.         This  process  is  easy  on  synthetic  sizing  substances  as  They  will  be  removed  by     Washing.But  when  starch  based  sizes  are  used,  The  situation  will  Be  changed  as     starch  is  Insoluble  in  water  and  must  Be  broken.  For  this  process  alfa  -­‐  amylase     enzymes  are    wildly  used.      
  • 9. DBDENIM B O O K De  sizing  enzymes  are  obtained  from  bacterias  and  sensitive  to  pH  and       temperature  .Otherwise  they  can  not  be  properly  activated.  Denılase  TITAN  can     arrange  its  pH  in  water  but  still  the  pH  of  the  bath  is  needed    to  be  arranged     Between  6-­‐7.5    Denılase  TITAN  is  effected  by  temperature  as    below.     In  this  point  there  is  a  very  crutial  point  which  is  to  be  very  careful  about     the  steaming  contacting  the  enzyme,otherwise  the  enzyme  loses  its  activation.       Denılase  TITAN  is  most  effective  at  the  temperature  of    55-­‐90°C  but  for  a     Controlled  process  the  recommended  temperature  is  55-­‐60°C.       Desizing  Recipe   0.5  -­‐  1  g/L    Denilase  TITAN  (  amylase  enzyme  )   0.5  -­‐  1  g/L    Deniwet    ZEN    (  wetting    agent  )     0.5  -­‐  1  g/L    Denispers  DISPER  (  dispersing    agent  )   Temp  :  55-­‐60  °C   pH  :  6.5  -­‐  7   Time    :  10  min     If   you   thınk   alfa   amylases   as   key   theır   lock   ıs   starch.   they   change   the   form   of   starchto  a  water  soluable  structure         The  maın  dıfference  at  alfa  amylases  ıs  temparature  stabılıty.  so  we  can  classıfy   alfa  amylases  as  termo-­‐stabıl  and  non-­‐termo  stabıl  groups.                                                                                      
  • 10. DBDENIM B O O K ENZYMES  FOR  DENIM  FINISHING   Most   denim   jeans   or   other   denim   garments   are   subjected   to   a   wash   treatment   to   give   them   a   slightly   worn   look.   In   the   traditional   stonewashing   process,   the   blue   denim   is   faded   bythe   abrasive   action   of   lightweight   pumice   stones   on   the   gar-­‐   ment   surface,   which   removes   some   of   the   dye.   However,   too   much   abrasion  can  damage  the  fabric,  particularly  hems  and  waistbands.     This  is  why  denim  finishers  today  use  cellulases  to  accelerate  the  abrasion  by   loosening   the   indigo   dye   on   the   denim.   Since   a   small   dose   of   enzyme   can   replace   several   kilograms   of   stones,   the   use   of   fewer   stones   results   in   less   damage   to   garments,   less   wear   on   machines,   and   less   pumice   dust   in   the   working   environment.   Productivity   canalso   be   increased   through   laundry   machines  containing  few-­‐  er  stones  but  more  garments.    
  • 11. DB DENIM B O O K With  a  stone-­‐free  process,  the  need  for  the  removal  of  dust  and  small  stones   from   the   fin-­‐   ished   garment   is   reduced.   There   is   also   no   sediment   in   the   wastewater,  which  can  otherwise  block  drains   The   mode   of   action   of   cellulases   is   shown   in   Figure   3.   Denim   garments   are   dyed   with   indigo,   which   adheres   to   the   surface   of   the   yarn.   The   cellulase   molecule   binds   to   an   exposed   fibril(bundles   of   fibrils   make   up   a   fibre)   on   the   surface  of  the  yarn  and  hydrolyses  it,  but  leaving  the  interior  part  of  the  cotton   fibre  intact.   When  the  cellulases  partly  hydrolyse  the  surface  of  the  fibre,  the   indigo  is  partly  removed  and  light  areas  are  created.     Both  neutral  cellulases  acting  at  pH  6-­‐8  and  acid  cellulases  acting  at  pH  4-­‐6  are   used   for   the   abrasion   of   denim.   There   are   a   number   of   cellulases   available,   each   with   its   own   spe-­‐   cial   properties.  These   can   be   used   either   alone   or   in   combi-­‐   nation   in   order   to   obtain   a   specific   look.   Practical,   ready-­‐to-­‐   use   formulations  containing  enzymes  are  available.     Application   research   in   this   area   is   focused   on   preventing   or   enhancing   backstaining   depending   on   the   style   required.   Backstaining   is   defined   as   the   redeposition  of  released  indigo  onto  the  garments.       This  effect  is  very  important  in  denim  fin-­‐  ishing.  Backstaining  at  low  pH  values   (pH   4-­‐6)   is   relatively   high,   whereas   it   is   significantly   lower   in   the   neutral   pH   range.   Neutral   cellulases   are   therefore   often   used   when   the   objective   is   minimal  backstaining       Enzymes  have  opened  up  new  possibilities  in  denim  finishing  by  increasing  the   variety   of   finishes   available.   For   example,   it   is   now   possible   to   fade   denim   to   a   greater  degree  without  running  the  risk  of  damaging  the  garment.The  denim   industry  is  driven  by  fashion  trends.     The  various  cellulases  available  for  modifying  the  surface  of  denim  give  fashion   designers   a   pallet   of   possibilities   for   creating   new   shades   and   finishes.   The   combination  of  new  looks,  lower  costs,  shorter  treatment  times  and  less  solid   waste  has  made  abrasion  with  enzymes  the  most  widely  used  fading  process   today.   Incidentally,   since   the   denim   fabric   is   always   sized,   the   complete   process  also  includes  desizing  of  the  denim  gar-­‐  ment.    
  • 12. DB DENIM B O O K CELLULASES  FOR  THE  BIOPOLISHING  OF  COTTON  FABRIC  AND  LYOCELL   Cotton  and  other  natural  and  man-­‐  made  cellulosic  fibres  can  be  improved  by   an   enzymatic   treatment   called   Biopolishing.   The   main   advantage   of   Bio-­‐   polishing  is  the  prevention  of  pilling.  Cellulases  hydrolyse  the  microfibrils  (hair   or  fuzz)  protruding  from  the  surface  of  yarn  because  they  are  most  susceptible   to   enzymatic   attack.   This   weakens   the   microfibrils,   which   tend   to   break   off   from  the  main  body  of  the  fibre  and  leave  a  smoother  yarn  surface.  A  ball  of   fuzz  is  called  a  'pill'  in  the  textile  trade.  These  pills  can  present  a  serious  quality   problem   since   they   result   in   an   unattractive,   knotty   appearance.   After   biopolishing,  the  fabric  shows  a  much  lower  pilling  tendency.    
  • 13. DBDENIM B O O K Other  benefits  of  removing  fuzz  are  Cotton  and  other  natural  and  man-­‐  made   cellulosic   fibres   can   be   improved   by   an   enzymatic   treatment   called   Bio   polishing.  The   main   advantage   of   Bio-­‐   polishing   is   the   prevention   of   pilling.   Cellulases  hydrolyse  the  microfibrils  (hair  or  fuzz)  protruding  from  the  surface   of  yarn  because  they  are  most  susceptible  to  enzymatic  attack.  This  weakens   the  microfibrils,  which  tend  to  break  off  from  the  main  body  of  the  fibre  and   leave  a  smoother  yarn  surface.  A  ball  of  fuzz  is  called  a  'pill'  in  the  textile  trade.   These   pills   can   present   a   serious   quality   problem   since   they   result   in   an   unattractive,  knotty  appearance.     After   bio   polishing,   the   fabric   shows   a   much   lower   pilling   tendency.   Other   benefits   of   removing   fuzz   are   a   softer,   smoother   feel   and   superior   colour   brightness.   Unlike   conventional   softeners,   which   tend   to   be   washed   out   and   often  result  in  a  greasy  feel,  the  softness-­‐enhancing  effects  of  bio  polishing  are   washproof   and   non-­‐greasy.   For   cotton   fabrics,   the   use   of   bio   polishing   is   optional  for  upgrading  the  fabric.  However,  bio  polishing  is  almost  essential  for   the   new   polynosic     fibre   lyocell   (the   leading   make   is   known   by   the   trade   name   Tencel®).  Lyocell  is  made  from  wood  pulp  and  is  characterised  by  a  tendency   to  fibrillate  easily  when  wet.  In  simple  terms,  fibrils  on  the  surface  of  the  fibre   peel   up.   If   they   are   not   removed,   finished   garments   made   with   lyocell   will   end   up  covered.    
  • 14. DB DENIM B O O K in   pills.   This   is   the   reason   why   lyo   cell   fabric   is   treated   with   cellulases   during   finishing.   Cellulases   also   enhance   the   attractive,   silky   appearance   of   lyocell.   Lyocell  was  invented  in  1991  by   Courtaulds    Fibres  (now  Acordis,  part  of  Akzo   Nobel)  and  at  the  time  was  the  first  new  man-­‐made  fibre  created  in  30  years   CELLULOSE  ENZYMES  (    STONE  AND  ANTI-­‐PILLING  ENZYMES    )     They  are  used  for  making  the  surface  of  the  fabric  smoother  and    giving    stone   affect  on  denim  fabrics.   Cellulase   enzyme   is   not   only   a   single   enzyme   but   an   enzyme   which   is     working   on  polymeric  cellulose  molecule.  The  synergic  movement  of  these  2  cellulose   types   on   cotton   fibres     in   convenient   conditions   continues   till   the   cellulose   is   completely  soluble  in  water.     But   this   is   not   required   practically.   Perfect   control   in   applications   ensure   perfect  effects.   The  parameters  which  effect  the  desired  affects  are;machine  type  ,liquor   ratio  ,machine  rpm  ,the  hardness  of  the  water,deactivation  substances  in   water,  yarn  quality,structure  of  the  fabric,gsp  of  the  fabric.     NEUTRAL  CELLULOSE  ENZYMES  (  STONE  ENZYMES  )   Denilase  COLD   Denilase  HOT   Neutral  Cellulases  :  Active  at  pH  6-­‐8     •       Less  effective  than  Acid  cellulases   •       Less  bleeding   •       pH  6  -­‐  8.0   •  They  remove  the  indigo  by  effecting  the  surface  of  the  denim     •  They  break  the  fibres  on  the  surface  of  the    fabric     •  They  make  the  surface  of  the  fabric  lighter    
  • 15. DBDENIM B O O K ACID  CELLULASE(  BIOPOLISHING  )   Denipill  ANNY     Denipill  AP  CONC   Denipill  AP   Denipill  DP  100     Denipill  DP  200     They  are  used  for  getting  a  better  surface  on  the  fabric.They  have  different   names  in  different  application  points.   •       Anti  Pill  Wash       •       De-­‐pill  Wash   •       Flat  Wash   •       Biopolishing           •       Bioplolishing  processes  are  done  by  acid    cellulases.   •       Operating  between    ph  4.5  –  5.5       •       They  attack  on  cellulose  and  break  them  on  their  weakest  point.   •       Usually  in  liquid  form  and  buffer-­‐free.   •       Their  activation  must  be  ended  at  the  end    of  the  process;   By  using  alkali  or  increasing  the  temperature  over  70  ºC   Biofinish   is   becoming   more   popular   recently.The   advantages   of   this   process   are;better   handle,smooth   fabric   surface,softness,less   pilling,   a   brighter   fabric   surface.       If   this   process   is   done   after   dyeing,as   large   dyestuff   molecules   are   bound   to   cellulose   by   covalent   binds,the   efficiency   of   the   enzyme   falls   down   and   more   quantity   of   enzyme   must   be   used   to   get   the   same   affects   at   the   same   period   of   time.      
  • 16. DB DENIM B O O K Biofinishing  can  cause  a  decrease  on  the  strength  and  weight  of  the  fabric.The   amount  of  the  strength  loss  of  the  fibers  during  enzymatic  process  are  as  below:     Lyocell  <  viscon  <  cotton  <  linen   Another   problem   for   the   tube   formed   fabrics   during   the   biopolishing   is   that   undesired   fibers   are   collected   inner   side   of   the   fabric   and   can   cause   some   other   problems  in  the    
  • 17. DBDENIM B O O K LACCASE  ENZYME   Denilase  AMON   Denilase  AMON-­‐X   •       It  is  a  kind  of  enzymatic  bleaching   •       It  gives  lighter  shades  without  using  a    bleaching  agent.   •       Gives  grey  cast.   •       Gives  high  contrast.   No  strength  loss.  Indigo  dyestuff  becomes  soluble  in  water  by    oxydoreductase   (Denilase   AMON-­‐X)   and   can   be   removed   from   the   fabric   by   rinsing.   This   process  must  be  supported  by  the  mediator  which  is  inside  of  the  product.     pH   5.5   –   6.5   is   required   for   bleaching   and   doesn’t   cause   any   problem   on   the   leather  or  metallic  accsesories.    
  • 18. DBDENIM B O O K But   this   enzyme   is   specific   for   Indigo   dyestuff.Sulphur   and   reactive   dyestuffs   can  not  be  bleached  by  Denilase   AMON-­‐X  .As  the  enzyme  is  effective  for  the   dyestuff,the  strength  loss  of  the  fabric  is  nearly    Due  to  the  pH-­‐value  of  5.5  –   6.5  which  is  necessary  for  this  bleaching  process  stickers  made  of  leather  and   metal  are  treated  carefully  as  well  as  the  garment  itself.  Sulphur  and  reactive   dyestuffs   are   not   affected   by   this   bleaching   system.   It   is   specific   to   indigo   dyestuff.  This  means  there  is  no  attack  to  the  cotton  fibre  and  so  nearly  there  is   no  loss  in  tensile  strength.   Without  any  particular  after-­‐scouring  or  after-­‐bleaching  a  greyer  colour  shade   compared   to   other   bleaching   systems   –   especially   chlorine   bleaching   -­‐   is   obtained.     A  clearer  shade  may  be  achieved  by  after-­‐bleaching  with  hydrogen  peroxide.  It   is  essential  to  rinse  and  wash  after  bleaching.  Then,  a  softener  is  applied  on  the   garment  and  finished  as  normal   When   compared   with   other   bleaching   processes   (especially   chlorite   process),it   gives  a  greyer  cast  without  any  additional  washing  or  bleaching  processesIf  a   brighter   and   more   specific   cast   is   required,an   additional   process   with   peroxide   is  recommended.       Rinsing  and  washing  is  done  after  the  bleaching    and  then  softening  and  the   other  finishing  processes  are  applied.     Laccase  Enzymes  Recipe:   %  0,5  –  1  :    Denilase  AMON  -­‐X   pH.:5.5       Temperature  :    60  º  C   20  -­‐  25  min.   Drain  -­‐  Rinse  –  45  º  C  –  2  min  
  • 19. DB DENIM BOOK Head  Office   :   Kazimiye  Mah.  Karadeniz  Cad.  Kiliçoğlu  Al@n  Evler  No:  37/5/21    Çorlu  /  Tekirdağ  /  TURKEY   Ph:  90  282  673  62  40      Fax  :  90  282  673  59  75   eyup@denimist.com.tr   Factory   :   Motor  Yerleri  Mevkii  E-­‐5  Uzeri  Ulaş  /  Corlu  /  Tekirdag  /  TURKEY   mustafa@denimist.com.tr     Pakistan   :   Plot  No:  2/C  Lane  No:  3  Itehad  Coom  Phase  –  VI  D.H.A  Karachi  /  PAKISTAN   Ph:  92-­‐21-­‐37820980  –  35348720    Cell  :  92-­‐300-­‐214430   tanveer@denimist.com.tr   Bangladesh   :   Road  36  ,  House  15,  F4,  Gulshan  2,  Dhaka  /BANGLADESH   Cell:  8801741393879   serkan@denimist.com.tr