Standard, Monitoring & Evaluation of dyeing process

Standard, Monitoring and Evaluation of Dyeing ProcessStandard, Monitoring and Evaluation of Dyeing Process
By: Asaye Dessie
2019

Contents
 Introduction to Dyeing
 Point consideration for Textile Dyeing
 Types of Energy Used In The Textile Industry
 Direct Dyeing Recipe And Treatment Condition
 Reactive Dyeing Recipe For Cotton Fabric
 Recipe And Dyeing Condition For Acid Dyeing of Nylon Fabrics
 Recipe and dyeing condition for dyeing of cotton with Vat Dyes
 Recipe and dyeing condition for dyeing of cotton with Sulphur Dyes
 Recipe for dyeing of Polyester with Disperse dyes:
 Yarn Dyeing
 Beam And Jet Dyeing Machines
 Jet Dyeing Machine
 Jigger Dyeing Machine
 Process Parameters For Semi-contineous And Contineous Methods
 Washing
 Process Parameters For Textile Printing
 Introduction to Dyeing
 Point consideration for Textile Dyeing
 Types of Energy Used In The Textile Industry
 Direct Dyeing Recipe And Treatment Condition
 Reactive Dyeing Recipe For Cotton Fabric
 Recipe And Dyeing Condition For Acid Dyeing of Nylon Fabrics
 Recipe and dyeing condition for dyeing of cotton with Vat Dyes
 Recipe and dyeing condition for dyeing of cotton with Sulphur Dyes
 Recipe for dyeing of Polyester with Disperse dyes:
 Yarn Dyeing
 Beam And Jet Dyeing Machines
 Jet Dyeing Machine
 Jigger Dyeing Machine
 Process Parameters For Semi-contineous And Contineous Methods
 Washing
 Process Parameters For Textile Printing

Introduction to textile Dyeing
 Dyeing is the process of adding color to textile products like fibers,
yarns, and fabrics.
 The whole substrate gets the color by immersing in to a solution of
the color
 Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and
particular chemical material.
 After dyeing, dye molecules have uncut chemical bond with fiber
molecules.
 The temperature and time controlling are two key factors in dyeing.
 There are mainly two classes of dye, natural and man-made.
 Uniform colouration of textile material.
yarns, and fabrics.
the color
molecules.
yarns, and fabrics.
the color
molecules.
yarns, and fabrics.
the color
molecules.
 FIBRE
 YARN
 FABRIC (Most Common)
 GARMENTS
DYEING FORMS

Process flow-chart of wet processing/Dyeing Flow chart

Key Point To Control In Textile Dyeing Process
 Textile Materials (Fabric/Yarns/Fibres/Garments)
 Dyes/Pigment
 Chemicals (Common salt, Caustic, Soda ash etc.)
 Auxiliaries (Leveling agent, wetting agent, sequestering agent etc.)
 Machinery
 Utilities:
 Electricity
 Water
 Steam
 Compressed air
 Gas
 Controlling Parameters:
 Temperature
 Time
 Concentration of dyes and chemical
 pH
 M:L ratio
 Pressure
 Man power
 Textile Materials (Fabric/Yarns/Fibres/Garments)
 Dyes/Pigment
 Chemicals (Common salt, Caustic, Soda ash etc.)
 Auxiliaries (Leveling agent, wetting agent, sequestering agent etc.)
 Machinery
 Utilities:
 Electricity
 Water
 Steam
 Compressed air
 Gas
 Controlling Parameters:
 Temperature
 Time
 Concentration of dyes and chemical
 pH
 M:L ratio
 Pressure
 Man power

Types of Energy Used In The Textile Industry
In general, energy in the textile industry is mostly used in the
forms of: electricity, as a common power source for
machinery, cooling and temperature control systems, lighting,
office equipment, etc.
Oil as a fuel for boilers which generate steam; liquified
petroleum gas; coal; and city gas.
Energy consumption is relatively high in the fields of dyeing
and finishing, fiber production, spinning, weaving and clothing
manufacturing.
In general, energy in the textile industry is mostly used in the
forms of: electricity, as a common power source for
machinery, cooling and temperature control systems, lighting,
office equipment, etc.
Oil as a fuel for boilers which generate steam; liquified
petroleum gas; coal; and city gas.
Energy consumption is relatively high in the fields of dyeing
and finishing, fiber production, spinning, weaving and clothing
manufacturing.

Energy In Dyeing And Finishing
 It is very important to advance energy conservation in the
dyeing and finishing field, which has a high energy consumption
share in terms of both the amounts of money and energy used.
 Dyeing and finishing process consists of many interwoven unit
operations, and it is well known that the process generally goes
through repeated wet and dry operations.
 The heat balance of a unit operation can mainly be considered as the
difference between the total supplied heat on the one hand and the
sum of the heat required by the system and various forms of heat
losses on the other.
 It is very important to advance energy conservation in the
dyeing and finishing field, which has a high energy consumption
share in terms of both the amounts of money and energy used.
 Dyeing and finishing process consists of many interwoven unit
operations, and it is well known that the process generally goes
through repeated wet and dry operations.
 The heat balance of a unit operation can mainly be considered as the
difference between the total supplied heat on the one hand and the
sum of the heat required by the system and various forms of heat
losses on the other.

Fiber AndYarn Dyeing Process And Energy Use

Typical Dyeing Process And Energy Use ForWoolen Fabric

Typical dyeing process and energy use for cotton fabric

Direct Dyeing Recipe And Treatment Condition
MLR: 1:30
PH : Neutral
Dyeing temperature = 90 – 100 0C
Dyeing time = 30 – 45 min
Chemicals Concentration %
Direct dye (% o.w.f.) 0.5-1.5
Sodium chloride (gpl) 10Sodium chloride (gpl) 10
Leveling agent (gpl) 0.3
MLR: 1:30
PH : Acidic
Treatment temperature = 50- 70 0C
Treatment time = 30 min
Chemicals used Concentration
Copper sulphate (o.w.f) 3
Acetic acid (80 %) (o.w.f) 1

Reactive Dyeing Recipe For Cotton Fabric
MLR: 1:10
Chemicals used
Concentration
Type of reactive dye
DCT MCT VS BF
Reactive dye (% o.w.f.) 1 1 1 1
Sodium chloride or sodium
sulphate (gpl)
20 - 50 20 – 50 20 - 50 20 – 50
Sodium chloride or sodium
sulphate (gpl)
20 - 50 20 – 50 20 - 50 20 – 50
Sodium carbonate (gpl) 5 15 5 15
Dichlorotriazinyl (DCT), Monochlorotriazinyl (MCT), Vinylsulphone (VS) and
Bifunctional [BF] dyes
Controlling Parameters: pH,Temperature, MLR, Concentration
Evaluation: After treatment, checking shade variation, wash and light fastness test, color
matching, color change and staining

Recipe And Dyeing Condition For Acid Dyeing of Nylon Fabrics
MLR: 1:5
pH = 4 - 5 (Acetic acid)
Dyeing temperature = 100 0C
Dyeing time = 45 - 60 min
Test 1 Test 2 Test 3 Test 4Test 1 Test 2 Test 3 Test 4
Acid dye (% o.w.f.) 0.5 1 2 3
Leveling agent (% o.w.f.) 2 2 2 2

Recipe and dyeing condition for dyeing of cotton with Vat Dyes
MLR: 1:1(Padder)
MLR: 1:5 (Jigger)
Reduction Temperature = 60oC
Dyeing Temperature = 50 oC
Vat dye (% o.w.f.) 1
Sodium hydroxide (gpl) 10
Sodium hydrosulphite (gpl) 10
Sodium sulphate (gpl) 10 - 20
Wetting agent (gpl) 0.5

Recipe and dyeing condition for dyeing of cotton with Sulphur Dyes
MLR: 1:1(Padder)
MLR: 1:5 (Jigger)
Solublizig Temperature = 60oC
Dyeing Temperature = 50 oC
Sulphur dye (% o.w.f.) 1
Sodium hydroxide (gpl) 10Sodium hydroxide (gpl) 10
Sodium hydrosulphite (gpl) 10
Sodium sulphate (gpl) 10 - 20
Weting agent (gpl) 0.5
matching test, color change and staining .

Recipe for dyeing of Polyester with Disperse dyes: Carrier Method
MLR: 1:30
PH = 5 – 6
Temperature = 100 0C
Test 1 Test 2 Test 3 Test 4
Disperse dye (% o.w.f.) 1 1 1 1Disperse dye (% o.w.f.) 1 1 1 1
Carrier (gpl) 0.5 1 2.5 4
Ammonium sulphate (gpl) 1 1 1 1
Dispersing agent (gpl) 2 2 2 2
Acetic Acid PH = 5 - 6
matching color change and staining .

Desizing Process Standard, Monitoring And Evaluation
 Nature of Size: Prior to desizing spoofing test.
Action: Select correct method of desizing
 %Wet pickup during Desizing: Pick up should not be less than 110%.
Action: If pickup variation is there then adjust pressure.
 Concentration of desizing agent and other ingredients: HCl-5gpl, Cellulase
enzyme 3-5gpl.
 Impregnation and dwell time: Non ionic wetting agent 3-5gpl. Dwell time
checked during padding. Ensure optimum dwell time.
 Temperature: During desizing in the bath (exothermic reaction may rise the
temperature. Acid desizing is done at room temperature. Enzyme desizing is done
depending on the enzyme.
Action: Regulate the steam supply. In acid desizing replenish the acid solution or
provide water cooling system.
 pH: Depending on the Enzyme
 Desizing efficiency: Standard- Not less than 85%.
 Evaluation of Process Efficiency
 Weight loss
 Starch presence
 Wettability/absorbency
 Reflectance (Degree of whiteness)
 Nature of Size: Prior to desizing spoofing test.
Action: Select correct method of desizing
 %Wet pickup during Desizing: Pick up should not be less than 110%.
Action: If pickup variation is there then adjust pressure.
 Concentration of desizing agent and other ingredients: HCl-5gpl, Cellulase
enzyme 3-5gpl.
 Impregnation and dwell time: Non ionic wetting agent 3-5gpl. Dwell time
checked during padding. Ensure optimum dwell time.
 Temperature: During desizing in the bath (exothermic reaction may rise the
temperature. Acid desizing is done at room temperature. Enzyme desizing is done
depending on the enzyme.
Action: Regulate the steam supply. In acid desizing replenish the acid solution or
provide water cooling system.
 pH: Depending on the Enzyme
 Desizing efficiency: Standard- Not less than 85%.
 Evaluation of Process Efficiency
 Weight loss
 Starch presence
 Wettability/absorbency
 Reflectance (Degree of whiteness)

Scouring Process Standard, Monitoring And Evaluation
1).Kier Lining: Prior to filling the fabric in kier.
Standard: No cheeping of interior wall of kier.
Action: Ensure proper cementing of interior wall of kier.
Filling Density: 7-8Kg/Cubic feet during filling of kier.
2) Removal of Air:
Standard: No air, ensure complete removal of air.
Action: Air removal before raising pressure
3) Circulation:
During scouring, circulation is tested by flow rate method.
Standard: Smooth circulation.
Action: Cleaning of circulation pump.
4) Recipe: i) Concentration of scouring liquor: Check by titration before and during
process. ii) ACTION: Adjust the concentration. iii) PRESSURE: 15psi or as per
quality and regulate steam supply. iv) TIME: Previous time record or as per
quality. v) Concentration Of Blend Liquor: Standard 90% must be consumed.
EVALUATION OF SCOURING PROCESS
 Weight loss calculation
 Test for effective scouring (wettability/absorbancy)
 Measure reflectance
 Evaluate percentage shrinkage
1).Kier Lining: Prior to filling the fabric in kier.
Standard: No cheeping of interior wall of kier.
Action: Ensure proper cementing of interior wall of kier.
Filling Density: 7-8Kg/Cubic feet during filling of kier.
2) Removal of Air:
Standard: No air, ensure complete removal of air.
Action: Air removal before raising pressure
3) Circulation:
During scouring, circulation is tested by flow rate method.
Standard: Smooth circulation.
Action: Cleaning of circulation pump.
4) Recipe: i) Concentration of scouring liquor: Check by titration before and during
process. ii) ACTION: Adjust the concentration. iii) PRESSURE: 15psi or as per
quality and regulate steam supply. iv) TIME: Previous time record or as per
quality. v) Concentration Of Blend Liquor: Standard 90% must be consumed.
EVALUATION OF SCOURING PROCESS
 Weight loss calculation
 Test for effective scouring (wettability/absorbancy)
 Measure reflectance
 Evaluate percentage shrinkage

Bleaching Process Standard, Monitoring And Evaluation
 By Kinetic study of bleaching, take 3 titration at 5 minutes. If
decomposition in 2nd and 3rd titration is fast then metallic impurity
is present.
 Remedy: Hexametaphosphate (7-8gpl to 15-20gpl is taken. It does
not chelate Fe ion. If Fe ion is present then EDTA is used. If
hardness of water is around 250-300 PPM, then 3gpl EDTA is
sufficient, but in presence of Fe Ion 6-8gpl is needed at 250-300
PPM Hardness. EDTA chelate is stable at higher temperature).
 Concentration of Chemical: Concentration is selected from
uniformity and reproducible results of previous processing. Adjust
the feeding concentration of chemical as required.
 Stock Solution Quantity: Take study of MLR of process or nature
of fabric quality. STANDARD: Full consumption of Stock solution
should be there, nothing should remain back as wastage.
 By Kinetic study of bleaching, take 3 titration at 5 minutes. If
decomposition in 2nd and 3rd titration is fast then metallic impurity
is present.
 Remedy: Hexametaphosphate (7-8gpl to 15-20gpl is taken. It does
not chelate Fe ion. If Fe ion is present then EDTA is used. If
hardness of water is around 250-300 PPM, then 3gpl EDTA is
sufficient, but in presence of Fe Ion 6-8gpl is needed at 250-300
PPM Hardness. EDTA chelate is stable at higher temperature).
 Concentration of Chemical: Concentration is selected from
uniformity and reproducible results of previous processing. Adjust
the feeding concentration of chemical as required.
 Stock Solution Quantity: Take study of MLR of process or nature
of fabric quality. STANDARD: Full consumption of Stock solution
should be there, nothing should remain back as wastage.

Bleaching Process Standard, Monitoring And Evaluation
 Temperature: Check temperature during process. Temperature
depends on bleaching process and bleaching chemical. Regulate
steam supply as needed.
 Time: METHOD: Dwell time record, concentration of bleaching
method and process selected. Give adequate treatment time.
 pH: Adjust the pH during the process by pH indicator or pH paper.
STANDARD: For Hypochlorite 9.5-10.5 and for Hydrogen
peroxide 10.5-11.5.
 Concentration of Drain: After bleaching, with the help of titration
ensure optimum utilization.
 Evaluation of Bleaching Process
Weight loss calculation
Absorbency/wettability
Reflectance
Percentage shrinkage
 Temperature: Check temperature during process. Temperature
depends on bleaching process and bleaching chemical. Regulate
steam supply as needed.
 Time: METHOD: Dwell time record, concentration of bleaching
method and process selected. Give adequate treatment time.
 pH: Adjust the pH during the process by pH indicator or pH paper.
STANDARD: For Hypochlorite 9.5-10.5 and for Hydrogen
peroxide 10.5-11.5.
 Concentration of Drain: After bleaching, with the help of titration
ensure optimum utilization.
 Evaluation of Bleaching Process
Weight loss calculation
Absorbency/wettability
Reflectance
Percentage shrinkage

Mercerization Process Standard, Monitoring And Evaluation
Moisture Control:
More moisture pickup by the fabric means more NaOH and hence more
effect. Drying cylinders are kept before mercerization tank to have same
moisture content in the fabric throughout for uniform results. Other
technique is wet on wet mercerization, where fabric is pre wet but it
requires high precaution.
Standard: Free from moisture.
Method: By sufficient steam in drying cylinder.
Caustic soda solution while padding:
Standard: 25% or 50-520Tw.
Method Of Checking:Twadle meter or titration.
Necessary Action: Adjust the concentration according to the requirement.
Concentration of NaOH will never change in tank from start to end but
then also at a later stage the concentration on Twadle meter increases
because the density of solution may increase due to the impurities from the
fabric like thickening agent etc.
Moisture Control:
More moisture pickup by the fabric means more NaOH and hence more
effect. Drying cylinders are kept before mercerization tank to have same
moisture content in the fabric throughout for uniform results. Other
technique is wet on wet mercerization, where fabric is pre wet but it
requires high precaution.
Standard: Free from moisture.
Method: By sufficient steam in drying cylinder.
Caustic soda solution while padding:
Standard: 25% or 50-520Tw.
Method Of Checking:Twadle meter or titration.
Necessary Action: Adjust the concentration according to the requirement.
Concentration of NaOH will never change in tank from start to end but
then also at a later stage the concentration on Twadle meter increases
because the density of solution may increase due to the impurities from the
fabric like thickening agent etc.

Mercerization Process Standard, Monitoring And Evaluation
Temperature of Padding Solution: Ideally it is carried at room temperature. If the
temperature is more, then it is because the moisture in the fabric is more.Water and
NaOH leads to exothermic reaction which will increase the temperature. So dry the
fabric properly. If still temperature increases then check water cooling line.
Dwell time: 45-60 Seconds.
Wet pick up of NaOH: Wet pick up is generally 120-125% but it should be perfectly
uniform throughout the width and length. Pick up is studied by taking original weight
of fabric and weight of fabric after padding. Pick up is checked randomly.
Washing: First compartment after mercerization tank is recuperator. Here the caustic
soda should not be more than 100Tw. If its % is very low then take less water. (because
if more water is present then NaOH associates itself with more water molecule and its
size becomes bigger which is very difficult to remove from the core of the fibre while
washing and chances are that we do not get proper washing).
Action:Adjust the flow of water.
Temperature of Recuperator: Here the hot washing is carried out. Live steam is
blown in water. So the temperature should not be less than 900C.
Temperature of Padding Solution: Ideally it is carried at room temperature. If the
temperature is more, then it is because the moisture in the fabric is more.Water and
NaOH leads to exothermic reaction which will increase the temperature. So dry the
fabric properly. If still temperature increases then check water cooling line.
Dwell time: 45-60 Seconds.
Wet pick up of NaOH: Wet pick up is generally 120-125% but it should be perfectly
uniform throughout the width and length. Pick up is studied by taking original weight
of fabric and weight of fabric after padding. Pick up is checked randomly.
Washing: First compartment after mercerization tank is recuperator. Here the caustic
soda should not be more than 100Tw. If its % is very low then take less water. (because
if more water is present then NaOH associates itself with more water molecule and its
size becomes bigger which is very difficult to remove from the core of the fibre while
washing and chances are that we do not get proper washing).
Action:Adjust the flow of water.
Temperature of Recuperator: Here the hot washing is carried out. Live steam is
blown in water. So the temperature should not be less than 900C.

YARN DYEING Standard, Monitoring And Evaluation
 Winding density should be even. Package density is checked before loading
the package.
 First take circumference, then measure height and deduct the center
portion of cone that is hollow. Then weigh it so you will get the density. For
cotton the package density is taken as 0.3 gram/cc.
Shape of the Cheese: Shape and size of the cheese should be same. Prior to
process checking is done visually.
Checking the angle of the winding: Angel should be 30-450. As the
angle increases the density decreases.
Perforation of the spindles: Perforation of the spindles prior to mounting
the spindle. It is visually assessed.
Standard: No perforation mark.
NecessaryAction:Wound butter paper or non woven textile. Polycarbide, and
polyethylene spindles are only wound. Spring type are not wound..
 Winding density should be even. Package density is checked before loading
the package.
 First take circumference, then measure height and deduct the center
portion of cone that is hollow. Then weigh it so you will get the density. For
cotton the package density is taken as 0.3 gram/cc.
Shape of the Cheese: Shape and size of the cheese should be same. Prior to
process checking is done visually.
Checking the angle of the winding: Angel should be 30-450. As the
angle increases the density decreases.
Perforation of the spindles: Perforation of the spindles prior to mounting
the spindle. It is visually assessed.
Standard: No perforation mark.
NecessaryAction:Wound butter paper or non woven textile. Polycarbide, and
polyethylene spindles are only wound. Spring type are not wound..

Cont…
MLR:
MLR for conventional machine is 1:10. Fongs has reduced the MLR to
1:4.
Standard: MLR varies from 1:6 to 1:12 and necessary action is
adjusting the MLR as per the requirement.
Pump pressure:
 Modern machine gives upto 6-7 Psi and old machines used to give
4psi.
 Take necessary action for smooth reversal flow of the liquor.
Recipe Colour and chemical:
 Prior to dyeing ensure confirmatory of standard recipe.
Colour Dissolution:
• Prior to dyeing check colour dissolution.
• Method of checking is spotting on filter paper.
MLR:
MLR for conventional machine is 1:10. Fongs has reduced the MLR to
1:4.
Standard: MLR varies from 1:6 to 1:12 and necessary action is
adjusting the MLR as per the requirement.
Pump pressure:
 Modern machine gives upto 6-7 Psi and old machines used to give
4psi.
 Take necessary action for smooth reversal flow of the liquor.
Recipe Colour and chemical:
 Prior to dyeing ensure confirmatory of standard recipe.
Colour Dissolution:
• Prior to dyeing check colour dissolution.
• Method of checking is spotting on filter paper.

Cont…
 Standard: Complete dissolution of colour, if partly colour is
getting dissolved then strain the solution prior to dyeing.
pH:
 Check with pH paper or pH meter.
 Standard: No standard it varies as per the dye class.
 Necessary Action: By addition of acid or alkali.
Temperature:
 Check with thermometer and adjust steam supply.
 Standard: No standard, it varies as per the class of dye.
Time:
 During process, the method of checking is dyeing record.
 Standard: Complete dissolution of colour, if partly colour is
getting dissolved then strain the solution prior to dyeing.
pH:
 Check with pH paper or pH meter.
 Standard: No standard it varies as per the dye class.
 Necessary Action: By addition of acid or alkali.
Temperature:
 Check with thermometer and adjust steam supply.
 Standard: No standard, it varies as per the class of dye.
Time:
 During process, the method of checking is dyeing record.

Cont..
Entrap air:
 Entrapped air is checked prior to built up of the pressure.
 Method is by checking air vent valve.
 Standard: No entrap air and ensure complete air removal.
Steam leakages:
 During process visual checking is done for no leakage in the pump and
circulating valve.
 Necessary action:Trap or plug all leakages.
Variation in Package density during process:
 In case of cotton carry out pretreatment process with low alkali. In case of
polyester texturised yarn due to boiling treatment yarn shrinks, to avoid
that either hold the batch at low temperature for longer time i.e 45-60min
or adjusting density during winding i.e Wind at lower density so the density
increases or become optimum after shrinking.
Entrap air:
 Entrapped air is checked prior to built up of the pressure.
 Method is by checking air vent valve.
 Standard: No entrap air and ensure complete air removal.
Steam leakages:
 During process visual checking is done for no leakage in the pump and
circulating valve.
 Necessary action:Trap or plug all leakages.
Variation in Package density during process:
 In case of cotton carry out pretreatment process with low alkali. In case of
polyester texturised yarn due to boiling treatment yarn shrinks, to avoid
that either hold the batch at low temperature for longer time i.e 45-60min
or adjusting density during winding i.e Wind at lower density so the density
increases or become optimum after shrinking.

BEAM AND JET DYEING MACHINES (HTHP DYEING MACHINES)
Parameters for fabric preparation:
 Uniform Whiteness, Degree of heat setting is checked by below
method
 Method Of Testing: Iodine absorbency test. Oil free fabric is
necessary.
 Necessary Action: Uneven white fabric is taken for heat setting.
Reheat set at higher temperature then previous.
Density of Fabric:
 Particularly for Beam dyeing machine optimum density is 0.6gm/cc.
 Necessary Action: To conform to uniform winding of fabric on a
beam.
 Minimum 8 to 10 layer of wrapper cloth is the standard. If Polyester
is more, than more layers of wrapper cloth must be wound. Ensure
proper length of wrapper cloth according to the width of the fabric
to avoid perforation marks.
Parameters for fabric preparation:
 Uniform Whiteness, Degree of heat setting is checked by below
method
 Method Of Testing: Iodine absorbency test. Oil free fabric is
necessary.
 Necessary Action: Uneven white fabric is taken for heat setting.
Reheat set at higher temperature then previous.
Density of Fabric:
 Particularly for Beam dyeing machine optimum density is 0.6gm/cc.
 Necessary Action: To conform to uniform winding of fabric on a
beam.
 Minimum 8 to 10 layer of wrapper cloth is the standard. If Polyester
is more, than more layers of wrapper cloth must be wound. Ensure
proper length of wrapper cloth according to the width of the fabric
to avoid perforation marks.

Cont…
Overlap on beam:
 During batching this precaution is to be taken that the Blend content
or width of the selvedge should be same.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Maintaining desired overlap.
Air Entrap:
 Before taking the pressure in the beam, entrapped air is removed.
Method of checking is overflow valve.
 STANDARD: No entrapped air.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Circulating the liquor for 5-10 minutes in
both the direction.
MLR:
 Beam dyeing MLR is 1:10 to 1:12.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Take optimum liquor ratio.
Overlap on beam:
 During batching this precaution is to be taken that the Blend content
or width of the selvedge should be same.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Maintaining desired overlap.
Air Entrap:
 Before taking the pressure in the beam, entrapped air is removed.
Method of checking is overflow valve.
 STANDARD: No entrapped air.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Circulating the liquor for 5-10 minutes in
both the direction.
MLR:
 Beam dyeing MLR is 1:10 to 1:12.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Take optimum liquor ratio.

Cont…
Flow Reversal:
 STANDARD: During the flow reversal the pressure should not
be less than (forward pressure of 4 Psi) If pressure is less then it
then check the pump. Optimize the number of wrapper layers.
 Check amount of water in the beam machine, and ensure
complete air removal.
Vessel Pressure:
 During dyeing, pressure gauge reading on beam dyeing should
be35-40psi.
Flow Reversal:
Vessel Pressure:
be35-40psi.
Flow Reversal:
Vessel Pressure:
be35-40psi.
Flow Reversal:
Vessel Pressure:
be35-40psi.

JET DYEING MACHINE
MLR’s ofVarious Jet based Machines:
 Old Jet 1:8
 Rapid Jet 1:6
 Super Rapid Jet 1:4-1:5
 Soft flow 1:1-1:1.5
 Over flow 1:4-1:5
 Air Flow 1:1
Jet Pressure:
 Jet pressure: 15-20 psi.Adjust jet pressure according to the quality.
 In case of soft flow dyeing machine pressure is very low from 3 psi to 10 psi.
 NECESSARYACTION:Adjusting the jet pressure according to the quality.
Recipe:
 No standard for recipe it is as per the quality of fabric.
 Old Jet 1:8
 Rapid Jet 1:6
 Soft flow 1:1-1:1.5
 Air Flow 1:1
Jet Pressure:
Recipe:
 Old Jet 1:8
 Rapid Jet 1:6
 Soft flow 1:1-1:1.5
 Air Flow 1:1
Jet Pressure:
Recipe:
 Old Jet 1:8
 Rapid Jet 1:6
 Soft flow 1:1-1:1.5
 Air Flow 1:1
Jet Pressure:
Recipe:

Cont…
pH:
 During dyeing it is checked by pH meter or pH paper, 4.5-5.5 is the standard.
 NECESSARY ACTION:Adjust the concentration of acid buffer.
Temperature:
 STANDARD: The standard is set during dyeing as per the requirement with the
help of thermometer.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Ensure uniform heating rate as per the dyeing program.
Maintain uniform steam pressure, and conform effective working of thermostat.
Dyeing time:
 Dyeing time is kept as per the previous records in record book. Ensure desired
holding time for the dyeing. Rapid jet takes 1 hour, old jet and beam take 2.5
hours, soft flow also takes 2-2.5 hours for completion of dyeing.
Vessel Pressure:
 During dyeing, pressure gauge reading on jet should be 25psi, for soft flow it
should be 20-25 psi. So ensure optimum pressure.
pH:
 During dyeing it is checked by pH meter or pH paper, 4.5-5.5 is the standard.
 NECESSARY ACTION:Adjust the concentration of acid buffer.
Temperature:
 STANDARD: The standard is set during dyeing as per the requirement with the
help of thermometer.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Ensure uniform heating rate as per the dyeing program.
Maintain uniform steam pressure, and conform effective working of thermostat.
Dyeing time:
 Dyeing time is kept as per the previous records in record book. Ensure desired
holding time for the dyeing. Rapid jet takes 1 hour, old jet and beam take 2.5
hours, soft flow also takes 2-2.5 hours for completion of dyeing.
Vessel Pressure:
 During dyeing, pressure gauge reading on jet should be 25psi, for soft flow it
should be 20-25 psi. So ensure optimum pressure.

JIGGER DYEING MACHINE:
Fabric preparation:
 POINTS TO CHECK: Absorbency, whiteness, pH of core fabric, creases of the
fabric and the selvedges.
 STANDARD: Uniform whiteness, Ph must be neutral, and fabric should be crease
free.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Give two acetic acid or formic acid wash. If the
absorbency is not proper then rescouring is to be done. If uniform whiteness is not
there then segregate the fabric. If creases are there then pass through the stenter to
remove the creases.
Batching:
 STANDARD: Knife cut batching (very even batching). If batching is not even, then
segregate the fabric or dry the fabric on the stenter. During batching another
precaution is that the expanders of the jigger must work properly.
Batch Size:
 Indian machines are having batching capacity in kg but internationally, diameter of
the batch is specified.
Fabric preparation:
free.
remove the creases.
Batching:
Batch Size:
Fabric preparation:
free.
remove the creases.
Batching:
Batch Size:
Fabric preparation:
free.
remove the creases.
Batching:
Batch Size:

Cont…
Measurement of the yardages of the fabric:
 STANDARD: It is the maximum permissible limit.
Maximum Limit:
 Do not permit to overload the fabric. Because the fabric may get overlapped.
MLR:
 Jigger dyeing machine is 1:1 to 1:1.5. During colouration 1:1.5, during soaping
1:2, during soaping for overflow washing it is 1:5. Maintain constant water
level for over flow washing. Prevent water and steam leakages.
Quality of the end cloth fabric:
 Non absorbent like nylon, polyester, linen etc. Length and width of the end
cloth needs to be checked.
Crease free fabric:
 Creases are found near the selvedges. So it has to be removed immediately.
Creases are formed in between the fabric due to the improper working of
expanders.
Maximum Limit:
MLR:
Crease free fabric:
expanders.
Maximum Limit:
MLR:
Crease free fabric:
expanders.
Maximum Limit:
MLR:
Crease free fabric:
expanders.

Cont…
Recipe:
 Calculated according to the weight of the fabric and the quality of the
fabric.
Colour Preparation:
 Checked during the preparation of the colour. Check on the filter
paper by spotting. Ensuring proper dissolution of the colour. Strain
the colour through bolting cloth prior to dyeing. This parameter is for
conventional jigger machine.
 Use proper dissolution method in case of vat and sulphur, give
sufficient time for dissolution.
Colour and Chemical Addition:
 Importantly colour and chemically addition should be in even
installments and not in odd installments.
 Use of splash board should be done during addition of any chemical to
the jigger dyeing machine. Proper stirring of the solution in the
trough after every addition. All solid chemicals must be added by pre-
dissolving.
Recipe:
 Calculated according to the weight of the fabric and the quality of the
fabric.
Colour Preparation:
 Checked during the preparation of the colour. Check on the filter
paper by spotting. Ensuring proper dissolution of the colour. Strain
the colour through bolting cloth prior to dyeing. This parameter is for
conventional jigger machine.
 Use proper dissolution method in case of vat and sulphur, give
sufficient time for dissolution.
Colour and Chemical Addition:
 Importantly colour and chemically addition should be in even
installments and not in odd installments.
 Use of splash board should be done during addition of any chemical to
the jigger dyeing machine. Proper stirring of the solution in the
trough after every addition. All solid chemicals must be added by pre-
dissolving.

Cont…
Concentration of Chemicals:
 During dyeing optimum amount of chemicals should be used and
there is no standard for it.
Temperature:
 During dyeing with the help of the thermometer check the
temperature and the standard of temperature should be as per the
class of the dye. Regulate the heat supply. Heat the solution during the
end of the turn and not in between when an end1 is running.
pH:
 Check pH during dyeing as per the class of the dye. Give optimum
dose of alkali and acids in the trough.
Concentration of Chemicals:
 During dyeing optimum amount of chemicals should be used and
there is no standard for it.
Temperature:
 During dyeing with the help of the thermometer check the
temperature and the standard of temperature should be as per the
class of the dye. Regulate the heat supply. Heat the solution during the
end of the turn and not in between when an end1 is running.
pH:
 Check pH during dyeing as per the class of the dye. Give optimum
dose of alkali and acids in the trough.

PROCESS PARAMETERS FOR SEMI-CONTINEOUS AND CONTINEOUS METHODS:PROCESS PARAMETERS FOR SEMI-CONTINEOUS AND CONTINEOUS METHODS:
Fabric Preparation:
 Check even absorbency and fabric should be crease free. For semi
continuous the width of fabric is more important as it is rolled. Proper
stitching of fabric is required. Heavy stitches should not be there. Fabric
should be uniform and even in absorbency. Uneven width pieces must be
segregated.
Nip Pressure:
 In nip pressure, the padding roll and squeezing roll are to be checked.
 METHOD: Roller pressure is measured by taking % expression. Hardness
of the roller is checked by degree shore meter or by carbon expression test.
Polishing of the soft roller is done to adjust the pressure. Proper working of
hydraulic and pneumatic pressing device is checked for.
Threading of the fabrics:
 Threading must be checked during drying, padding and soaping.
Fabric Preparation:
 Check even absorbency and fabric should be crease free. For semi
continuous the width of fabric is more important as it is rolled. Proper
stitching of fabric is required. Heavy stitches should not be there. Fabric
should be uniform and even in absorbency. Uneven width pieces must be
segregated.
Nip Pressure:
 In nip pressure, the padding roll and squeezing roll are to be checked.
 METHOD: Roller pressure is measured by taking % expression. Hardness
of the roller is checked by degree shore meter or by carbon expression test.
Polishing of the soft roller is done to adjust the pressure. Proper working of
hydraulic and pneumatic pressing device is checked for.
Threading of the fabrics:
 Threading must be checked during drying, padding and soaping.

Cont….Cont….
pH:
 Check pH during dyeing as per the class of the dye. Give optimum dose of
alkali and acids in the trough.
Speed:
 Speed is measured with dial speed meter. Maintain optimum speed for dyeing.
DwellTime:
 During dyeing, the dwell time is checked with the stop watch. Adjust the speed
to get uniform dwell time.
Temperature of drying chamber:
 Ensure slow and uniform drying to avoid migration of the colour.
Flow of feeding liquor:
 Flow of feeding liquor has to be adjusted with the flow meter. Adjust the flow
such that the liquor should pass throughout the width and length of the fabric.
pH:
Speed:
DwellTime:
pH:
Speed:
DwellTime:
pH:
Speed:
DwellTime:

Cont….Cont….
Expanders:
 During dyeing, expanders are to be stretched. Proper working of ball bearing
should be checked for.
 Proper and regular greasing and oiling should be done for proper working.
Guide Rollers:
 During dyeing, ensure smooth working of guide rollers.
Colour Preparation:
 Checked during the preparation of the colour. Check on the filter paper by
spotting. Ensuring proper dissolution of the colour. Strain the colour through
bolting cloth prior to dyeing.This parameter is for conventional jigger machine.
 Use proper dissolution method in case of vat and sulphur, give sufficient time
for dissolution.
Covering Batching:
 For pad batch and semi continuous method the fabric is to be isolated from the
departmental atmosphere.
 NECESSARYACTION:Wrap the batches with polyethylene sheets to avoid
localized drying.
Expanders:
 During dyeing, expanders are to be stretched. Proper working of ball bearing
should be checked for.
 Proper and regular greasing and oiling should be done for proper working.
Guide Rollers:
 During dyeing, ensure smooth working of guide rollers.
Colour Preparation:
 Checked during the preparation of the colour. Check on the filter paper by
spotting. Ensuring proper dissolution of the colour. Strain the colour through
bolting cloth prior to dyeing.This parameter is for conventional jigger machine.
 Use proper dissolution method in case of vat and sulphur, give sufficient time
for dissolution.
Covering Batching:
 For pad batch and semi continuous method the fabric is to be isolated from the
departmental atmosphere.
 NECESSARYACTION:Wrap the batches with polyethylene sheets to avoid
localized drying.

Dyeing by Padding Mangle
May be a separate machine or tandem with other machines.The purpose ofv
mangle is impregnate the material evenly with the dye liquor.The liquor
picked up by the material is same width and length wise.Also the pick up
should be the same if there are more number of batches for a given shade.
Factors needing control on padding Mangle
Factors Guidelines Controlled by / known from
Hardness of rubbing 75-85 shore durometer Hardness meter
coating on bowls
Time available for Sufficient for thorough Speed
Saturation with liquor saturation
Method of feeding fabric Perpendicular to the nip Threading arrangement
to the nip
Tension on the fabric Sufficient to ensure Threading arrangement
smooth entry
Pressure on the mangle Equal on both sides to give Pressure gauges
rolls required pickup
coating on bowls
to the nip
smooth entry
coating on bowls
to the nip
smooth entry
coating on bowls
to the nip
smooth entry

Some Common Process Control Checks in Dyeing
1). Fabric: Neps, Hairiness, Surface smoothness
2). Dye Selection: Selection of dye class and individual dye in that
class-fastness requirements, cost, method of application, etc. Dye-
dye interaction in a combination shade may lower the fastness rating
of the shade than the two individual dyes.
3). Marketing considerations: brightness, cost
4). Buildup property: Select dyes which give better build up
properties
5). Strike/leveling ability: More important when applied by exhaust
method. For even dyeing choose low strike and/or high leveling
ability. Leveling ability is also known as migration behaviour
6). Migration during Drying: Property of padding liquor. Dyes show
tendency to migrate during drying. Choose optimum drying
conditions and use migration inhibitor.
1). Fabric: Neps, Hairiness, Surface smoothness
2). Dye Selection: Selection of dye class and individual dye in that
class-fastness requirements, cost, method of application, etc. Dye-
dye interaction in a combination shade may lower the fastness rating
of the shade than the two individual dyes.
3). Marketing considerations: brightness, cost
4). Buildup property: Select dyes which give better build up
properties
5). Strike/leveling ability: More important when applied by exhaust
method. For even dyeing choose low strike and/or high leveling
ability. Leveling ability is also known as migration behaviour
6). Migration during Drying: Property of padding liquor. Dyes show
tendency to migrate during drying. Choose optimum drying
conditions and use migration inhibitor.

Some Common Process Control Checks in Dyeing
7). Quality of Dispersion: When applied in insoluble form.
Dispersion quality of dye must be good.
8). Compatability: Individual dyes in a recipe should ideally behave
as one dye forming on tone build up of shade. In practice it does not
happen. Select dyes and dyeing conditions that show minimum
variation in the proportion as the dyeing progresses. Carry out
laboratory experiments for selecting dyes that give on-tone build up.
9). Ability to cover material differences: Dead or immature fiber are
dyed in pale shades. Neps are dyed prominently. Some dyes are able
to cover dead cotton. Select such dyes for matching.
7). Quality of Dispersion: When applied in insoluble form.
Dispersion quality of dye must be good.
8). Compatability: Individual dyes in a recipe should ideally behave
as one dye forming on tone build up of shade. In practice it does not
happen. Select dyes and dyeing conditions that show minimum
variation in the proportion as the dyeing progresses. Carry out
laboratory experiments for selecting dyes that give on-tone build up.
9). Ability to cover material differences: Dead or immature fiber are
dyed in pale shades. Neps are dyed prominently. Some dyes are able
to cover dead cotton. Select such dyes for matching.

o Fabric is washed in the rope or open width form to remove residual chemicals and
other loose impurities
o Washing Machine: Two arrangements – a squeeze arrangement to extract impure
liquor from the fabric and wash tank for dilution of fabric impurities.
o Use soft water for processing- Satisfactory limit of hardness is 50 ppm expressed
in terms of calcium carbonate. If the process house is not equipped with water
softening plant – use Sodium hexa-meta phosphate or sequestering agent. Reduce
consumption of water.
NORMS FORWATER CONSUMPTION IN WET PROCESS
Process Litres/kg of material
Bleaching -Conventional 90- 100
Bleaching- continuous 70- 90
Mercerising 20
Jigger Dyeing 45
Continuous Dyeing 35
Yarn package Dyeing 100
Printing 100
Finishing 15
WASHING
o Fabric is washed in the rope or open width form to remove residual chemicals and
other loose impurities
o Washing Machine: Two arrangements – a squeeze arrangement to extract impure
liquor from the fabric and wash tank for dilution of fabric impurities.
o Use soft water for processing- Satisfactory limit of hardness is 50 ppm expressed
in terms of calcium carbonate. If the process house is not equipped with water
softening plant – use Sodium hexa-meta phosphate or sequestering agent. Reduce
consumption of water.
NORMS FORWATER CONSUMPTION IN WET PROCESS
Process Litres/kg of material
Bleaching -Conventional 90- 100
Bleaching- continuous 70- 90
Mercerising 20
Jigger Dyeing 45
Continuous Dyeing 35
Yarn package Dyeing 100
Printing 100
Finishing 15

Process Parameters For Textile Printing:
Fabric preparation:
 Crease free, singeing, uniform whiteness(WI), cleanliness of fabric, width
of the fabric, hairiness of fabric (luster meter), absorbency(drop test), pH
of extract of fabric(pH indicator), Face of the fabric.
Gum preparation:
 Viscosity(Viscosity meter), pH(pH paper), Viscosity in flatbed is kept
more and less in rotary.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Check easy flowing of paste to the adequate time
and temperature, ensure preparation of free flowing gum and paste should
be lump free, for that purpose if lump are there then strain the paste.
Colour Preparation:
 Ensure the pH of printing paste and shade of the print dots.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Adjust the pH according the class of the dyes and
shade as per the standard.
Fabric preparation:
 Crease free, singeing, uniform whiteness(WI), cleanliness of fabric, width
of the fabric, hairiness of fabric (luster meter), absorbency(drop test), pH
of extract of fabric(pH indicator), Face of the fabric.
Gum preparation:
 Viscosity(Viscosity meter), pH(pH paper), Viscosity in flatbed is kept
more and less in rotary.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Check easy flowing of paste to the adequate time
and temperature, ensure preparation of free flowing gum and paste should
be lump free, for that purpose if lump are there then strain the paste.
Colour Preparation:
 Ensure the pH of printing paste and shade of the print dots.
 NECESSARY ACTION: Adjust the pH according the class of the dyes and
shade as per the standard.

Cont…
Design Checking:
 Check no of screens as per the no of colours. Check Fitting of all
design and matching’s are matching with each other or not. Check with
sample printing. Check individual screen for pin holes and patch it up
and check it on glass table with tube light.
Expanders and guide rollers:
 Crease free flow of the fabric with smooth working of guide rollers.
Squeegee pressure:
 Here visually the squeegee pressure is adjusted.
 Necessary action is maintaining uniform squeegee pressure from
selvedge to selvedge.
Crease free drying:
 Check smooth working of drying fans from the drying side.
Synchronization in blanket speed and drying speed is to be checked.
Design Checking:
 Check no of screens as per the no of colours. Check Fitting of all
design and matching’s are matching with each other or not. Check with
sample printing. Check individual screen for pin holes and patch it up
and check it on glass table with tube light.
Expanders and guide rollers:
 Crease free flow of the fabric with smooth working of guide rollers.
Squeegee pressure:
 Here visually the squeegee pressure is adjusted.
 Necessary action is maintaining uniform squeegee pressure from
selvedge to selvedge.
Crease free drying:
 Check smooth working of drying fans from the drying side.
Synchronization in blanket speed and drying speed is to be checked.

Cont….
Cleaning of Rubber blanket:
 Blanket must be completely dried and completely clean.
 Necessary Action: Checking of effective working of cleaning device
of blanket.
Stability in printing paste:
 Before printing the stability is checked for sample printing.
 Necessary Action: Enrich the print paste with required ingredients to
take care of depleted strength.
Left over print paste:
 Left over is checked and % remaining is checked, It should be less
than 5% in latest machine and less than 10% in case of the
conventional machines.
 Ensure proper recording of actual print paste consumption of al l the
machines and effective reutilization of left over print paste.
Cleaning of Rubber blanket:
 Blanket must be completely dried and completely clean.
 Necessary Action: Checking of effective working of cleaning device
of blanket.
Stability in printing paste:
 Before printing the stability is checked for sample printing.
 Necessary Action: Enrich the print paste with required ingredients to
take care of depleted strength.
Left over print paste:
 Left over is checked and % remaining is checked, It should be less
than 5% in latest machine and less than 10% in case of the
conventional machines.
 Ensure proper recording of actual print paste consumption of al l the
machines and effective reutilization of left over print paste.

THANKS FOR YOUR ATTENTION !!!THANKS FOR YOUR ATTENTION !!!

Standard, Monitoring & Evaluation of dyeing process

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Standard, Monitoring & Evaluation of dyeing process