Crosslinked PVA Improves Fastness of Cotton Dyed with Direct Dyes

69
Study on the Use of Crosslinked Polyvinyl Alcohol as an After-Treatment of
Cotton Dyed With Direct Dyes
Busuguma U.A1
, Aisha M. Ngubdo2
, Al Amin Bukar3
1,2
Department of Pre-nd Studies, Ramat Polytechnic, Maiduguri
3
El-kanemi College of Islamic Theology, Maiduguri
usmanalibusuguma@gmail.com
Abstract - Cross linked polyvinyl alcohol (produced from the reaction of polyvinyl
alcohol with glutaraldehyde and glyoxal) were used as an after-treatment of cotton
dyed with direct dyes. Both the conventional and the cross linked polyvinyl alcohol
were characterized with Fourier Transformed Infra-red Spectrometer (FT-IR) to
establish important bands. The washing and light fastness properties of the dyed
cotton fabrics were improved using the cross linked polyvinyl alcohol. This was
attributed to the formation of a large molecular size, low-water solubility complex
situated at the surface of the dyed substrate which physically resists diffusion of
dye from the dyed fabric during subsequent usage. In addition, the process was
found to improve the tensile strengths of the materials despite the use of heat when
drying. This was as a result of the high tensile strength of polyvinyl alcohol.
Key Words - After-Treatment; Direct Dyes; Polyvinyl Alcohol; Fastness Properties.
1 Introduction
Direct dyes are water-soluble dyestuffs which are absorbed directly by cellulosic fibers, such as
cotton, linen and rayon, from an aqueous solution containing electrolyte. Chemically, nearly all direct
dyes are azo compounds containing sulphonic acid groups to impart aqueous solubility, the dyes
themselves being the sodium salts of these aromatic sulphonic acids. In general, direct dyes are high-
molecular-weight compounds containing two, three or more azo groups, although a few monoazo
products are known. The remaining chemical classes are derived from stilbene, copper pthalocyanine,
dioxazine, quinoline, or thiazole structures (Nkeonye, 1987).
The rate at which this dye is absorbed by the fibre and the amount that has been absorbed when the
dyeing operation is complete are determined not only by the intrinsic substantivity of the dye for the
fibre but also by the amount of salt used, the liquor ratio of the bath, and its temperature. Adding salt
to the bath improves the exhaustion. So also does an increase in the concentration of dye in the bath;
this means that exhaustion, i.e uptake of dye by the fibre, can be improved without the use of
additional dye, simply by using less water in the bath, i.e by reducing the liquor ratio. This may not
always be possible, however, because the use of low liquor ratios may cause operational difficulties.
An increase in temperature increases the rate at which the dye is taken up and also the rate at which it
migrates or levels when on the fibre; however, it is important to note that rise in temperature also
reduces the equilibrium exhaustion (Charles, 1974).
1.1 Composition of Direct Dyes

International Journal of Basic and Applied Science, Busuguma et. al.
Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
70 Insan Akademika Publications
The „direct dye‟ classification in the colour index system refers to various planar, highly conjugated
molecular structures that also contain one or more anionic sulfonate group. It is because of these
sulfonate groups that the molecules are soluble in water.
The introduction of the first substantive or direct dye for cellulose in 1884 aroused much interest,
which led to extensive research and experimentation in attempt to uncover the structural
characteristics which account for the very strong substantivity which many direct dyes have for
cellulose. The earliest theories offered purely mechanical explanation, attributing dye retention by the
cellulose to its pore structure (Nkeonye, 1987).
The first real advance was probably that put forward by Hodgson who pointed out that the dye
molecule must be planar for marked affinity for cellulose to be manifest. Planarity in a molecule
entails complete absence of twist. Linearity of the dye molecule is another important requirement for
substantivity. For instance, of the three dye structures 1, 2 and 3 given below, 1 and 2 are linear and
substantive, where as 3 is non linear and non substantive.
Fig.1: Linear and Substantive dye structures (1, 2), Non Linear and Non Substantive dye structure (3)

Busuguma at. al. International Journal of Basic and Applied Science,
Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
www.insikapub.com 71
1.2 Fastness Property of Direct Dyes
The main setback of direct dyes is their rather low fastness to wet treatments and sometimes also to
light. Their washing fastness may be described as poor to moderate, while their fastness to light varies
from poor to very good. Fastness to washing and to light is improved, in suitable cases, by subjecting
the dyed fabric to an after-treatment.
Because of the discovery of faster synthetic dyes for cellulosic materials over the years, direct dyes are
now used mainly in applications where fastness to washing is not a major consideration. Direct dyes
are also used in the non-textile field, in particular for dyeing paper and leather. The cellulose synthetic
dyes in the order of increasing fastness are direct, sulphur, azoic, reactive and vat dyes (Nkeonye,
1987).
1.3 After-Treatments of Cotton Dyed With Direct Dye
The generally poor wet fastness of direct dyes is a great technical defect, particularly when used on
materials which are likely to be subjected to repeated washing. As such various methods have been
used to improve the fastness properties. Treatment by diazotization and coupling, with metallic salts,
with formaldehyde, with cationic fixing agent, with have been reported to be used (Nkeonye, 1987).
Burkinshaw and Kumar (2009) reported an after-treatment with polyvinyl alcohol found to improve
the fastness of 3 direct dyes on cotton to washing at 600
C. The effectiveness of the after-treatment was
enhanced by the sequential application of an organic titanate, MgS04 , and 3 different protease
enzymes. This was attributed to the formation of a large molecular size, low-water solubility complex
situated at the surface of the dyed substrate which physically resists diffusion of the dye from the dyed
fabric during washing.
1.4 Cross Linked Polyvinyl Alcohol
Cross links are bonds that link one polymer chain to another. They can be covalent bonds or ionic
bonds. “Polymer Chains” can refer to synthetic polymers or natural polymers (such as protein). When
the term “Cross-linking” is used in the synthetic polymer science field, it usually refers to the use of
cross-links to promote a difference in the polymer‟s physical properties (Wikipedia, 2009).
When polymer chains are linked together by cross-links, they loose some of their ability to move as
individual polymer chains. For example, a liquid polymer (where the chains are freely moving) can be
turned into a “solid” or “gel” by cross-linking the chains together (Wollensak, 2009).
When a synthetic polymer is said to be “cross-linked”, it usually means that the entire bulk of the
polymer has been exposed to the cross linking method. The resulting modification of mechanical
properties depends strongly on the cross-link density. Low cross-link densities raise the viscosities of
polymer melts. Intermediate cross-link densities transform gummy polymers into materials that have
elastomeric properties and potentially high strengths. Very high cross-link densities can cause
materials to become very rigid or glassy, such as phenol-formaldehyde resin (Reeves, 1996).
Chemical covalent cross-links are stable mechanically and thermally, so once formed are difficult to
break. Cross-linking agents contain at least two reactive groups that are reactive towards numerous
groups, and create chemical covalent bonds between two or more molecules (Wikipedia, 2009)
1.5 Polyvinyl Alcohol; Properties and Uses
Polyvinyl alcohol was first prepared by Hermann and Haehnel in 1924 by hydrolyzing polyvinyl
acetate in ethanol with potassium hydroxide. Polyvinyl alcohol is produced commercially from

Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
polyvinyl acetate, usually by continuous process. The acetate groups are hydrolyzed by ester
interchange with methanol in the presence of anhydrous sodium methylate or aqueous sodium
hydroxide. The physical characteristics and its specific functional uses depend on the degree of
polymerization and degree of hydrolysis. Polyvinyl alcohol can be classified into two classes namely:
partially hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol and fully hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol (Saxena, 2004).
Polyvinyl alcohol is an odorless and tasteless, translucent, white or cream colored granular powder. It
has excellent film forming, emulsifying and adhesive properties. It is also resistant to oil, grease and
solvent. It has high tensile strength and flexibility, as well as high oxygen and aroma barrier
properties. However these properties are dependent on humidity (Wikipedia, 2008).
Polyvinyl alcohol is used in various applications based on the degree of polymerization and degree of
hydrolysis. It is used as an emulsion stabilizer, in textile warp sizes, as a moisture barrier, as an
adhesive and thickener material in latex paints, paper coating, hairspray, shampoos, and glues. It is
also used in protective chemical-resistant gloves, as a fixative for specimen collection, as a water-
soluble film useful for packaging and so on (Saxena, 2004).
1.6 Chemically Cross Linked Polyvinyl Alcohol
Polyvinyl alcohol, like low molecular-weight alcohols, is highly reactive, lending itself to
esterification, etherification and acetalization. Of these reactions, acetalization is of great importance
in industrial applications. Aqueous PVA solutions can be gelled by any bifunctional reagents that can
condense with organic hydroxyl groups in aqueous solution. For example, gels can be formed from
aqueous solutions containing from 2 to 10% of polyvinyl alcohol. It is expected that, in the
acetalization reactions of polyvinyl alcohol, if cross linking acetalization between the molecules
occurs, there will be a pronounced effect on properties such as solubility and solution viscosity (Finch,
1976).
1.7 Acetals of Polyvinyl Alcohol
The acetalation of polyvinyl alcohol has attracted a great deal of attention largely because this process
is useful in the modification of polyvinyl alcohol fibers. The reaction is subject to catalysis by acids
and can be brought about easily in aqueous solution. The acetal links are stable in neutral and basic
solutions, although the condensation is in principle reversible in acid solutions. Desirable chemical
groups introduced into polyvinyl alcohol fibers via the acetal linkage are therefore stable in hot
solution of soap (Pritchard, 1969).
The reaction between an alcohol and aldehyde can be represented below;
Fig.2: Alcohol and Aldehyde Reaction Process
C
O
2R'OH
C
OR'
OR'
Acid
catalyst
H2O
+
+

Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
2 Aims and Objectives
The aims and objectives of this research work are:
1. To chemically cross link polyvinyl alcohol with glutaraldehyde and glyoxal.
2. To use the cross linked polyvinyl alcohol as an after-treatment for direct dyes on cotton fabrics.
3. To also determine the effectiveness of the treatment and the tensile strengths of the treated
fabrics.
3 Materials and Methods
3.1 Reagents and Glass Wares
Polyvinyl alcohol (87-89%) Aldrich, glutaraldehyde (25%) BDH, glyoxal(40%) BDH, Acetic acid
R.P. NORMAPUR, 0.1M HCl Riedel de Haen and 0.1M NaOH M&B all of reagent grade and were
used without further purification.
All glass wares were thoroughly washed with detergents, rinsed with distilled water and dried before
use.
3.1.1 Instruments
The instruments used were; Grey scale for assessing change in colour (BS EN 20105 A02: 1995),
tensile strength machine (Zwick/Roell), Microscal light fastness tester and water bath.
a. Method Used for Dissolving and Heating Polyvinyl Alcohol
The method used for dissolving and heating the partly hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol used was adopted
by the standard method of dissolving and heating polyvinyl alcohol reported by C.A Finch, 1973.
b. Synthesis of Chemically Cross linked Polyvinyl Alcohol
The two cross linked polyvinyl alcohols were synthesized using similar procedure reported by
Audebert, Roland, Maroy, Piere, and Janca, Joseph (2004):
A solution of 24g (0.000192mol) of polyvinyl alcohol in 576g of water was prepared and heated to
60o
C. 2ml (0.0212mol) of 25% solution of glutaraldehyde was added and the solution was stirred for
30 minutes. While stirring continues 15ml of 0.1M HCl was added. After one hours stirring, 50ml of
0.1M NaOH was added. The formation of minutes micro gels in a less viscous solution of the
polyvinyl alcohol confirms the cross linkage. Same procedure was used for glyoxal.
c. Method I Used for After-Treatment
The method adopted was the modification of the one reported by Logue (1994) and Nkeonye (1987).
1. A cut sample was coated with the cross linked polymer and allowed to air dried. It was later
damped and allowed to condition for 2 hours, then calendered using a conventional pressing
stone.
2. A cut sample was coated with the cross linked polymer and allowed to air dry for 3min and
cured for 3min at 1400
C. It was also damped and allowed to condition for two hours and finally
calendered.
The same procedure was adopted for PVA/GLY cross linked polymer

Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
d. Method II Used for After-treatment
A cut sample was coated first with a conventional polyvinyl alcohol that contains 1% of the cross
linking agent, then 1% of a 30% acetic acid was spread throughout the coated sample and was heated
at 800
C for 30min.
The same procedure was adopted for PVA-GLY cross linked polymer
3.1.2 Fastness Test
Methods used for the fastness tests were reported by the Nigerian Industrial Standard (NIS 26:1973
and 02:1972)
An aspect of fabric which is always of interest to consumer is how fast the color is. Some dyes may be
fast to washing and dry-cleaning but not to day-light. Others may be fast to perspiration and rubbing
when wet, but not to hot pressing, bleaching and so on. As such the fabrics treated were subjected to
the following fastness tests which are of particular interest to the fabric.
a. Fastness to Washing
This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles in all forms to the
repeated action of soap solution as used in washing (Nigerian Industrial Standard, 1973).
5g of an appropriate soap was dissolved in a liter of distilled water (soap solution). The composite
specimen was placed in a 250ml beaker, and a necessary amount of the soap solution prepared was
added to give a liquor ratio of 50:1. The specimen was then treated at 480
C using a regulated water
bath for 45mins. Finally, the composite specimen were rinsed twice in cold distilled water and then in
cold running water for 10mins then it was squeezed and air dried.
The dried specimens were assessed using the standard grey scale for assessing color change.
b. Fastness to Light
All the samples were cut into an appropriate size and were exposed alongside the standard dyed blue
fabrics to the artificial light for 96 hours.
c. Tensile Strength Test
All the treated and the untreated specimens were tested for their tensile strength using the tensile
strength machine which constitutes of an upper and lower jaw that were used to grip (hold) the
specimens. As the machine is switched on, the upper jaw moves upward to exert force or load on the
specimen, the machine stops automatically as the specimen breaks or ruptures. The length at which it
extended before break and the force applied (in Newton) is recorded.
The gauge length of the machine is 40mm.
4 Results and Discussion
4.1 Formation of PVA Solution

Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
In spite of polyvinyl alcohols hygroscopicity, the PVA used has a remarkable slow rate of solution at
room temperature or slightly above; indeed, dissolution appears impossible. Yet, with the standard
method mentioned, clear and homogenous solution of the polymer was obtained.
4.2 Cross Linked Polyvinyl Alcohol
The cross linking between polyvinyl alcohol/glutaraldehyde and polyvinyl alcohol/glyoxal all yielded
the formation of microgels structure resulting from the action of the cross linking agents on a diluted
solution of PVA. Another important parameter was that the size of the micro-gels formed as a result of
cross linking polyvinyl alcohol/glutaraldehyde was found to be larger and more than the micro-gels
formed with polyvinyl alcohol/glyoxal.
This parameter could possibly be due to the fact that cross linkers (cross linking agents) are available
with different spacer arm lengths. Cross linkers with a long spacer arm and those with a short spacer
arm. (Wollensak G, 2003).
a. Dyed cotton fabrics
The cotton fabric dyed with direct dye (Yellow HE 6G) gave medium yellow shade and it leveled very
well. The same leveling was also observed for the direct dye (Turquine blue).
b. After-treated fabrics
The after-treatment maintained the strength of the colour of the dyed fabrics, only that little yellowing
was seen in the fabrics that were cured (those dyed with blue dye). This could possibly be due to the
yellowing of the polyvinyl acetal gels when dehydrated (Pritchard, 1969).
4.3 Fastness Properties
a. Fastness to Washing
To qualify for the label “fast to washing” a minimum rating of 3 in the scale 1-5 is required for the
change in colour. Below were the results obtained from the visual assessment of change in colour
using the grey scale that includes half steps.
Table 1. Washing Fastness
Specimens Fastness Specimens Fastness
FAA 2 FBA 2
FAB 2-3 FBB 3
FAC 3-4 FBC 4
FAD 3 FBD 3-4
PVA-GA1 2-3 PVA-GA2 2-3
PVA-GLY1 2-3 PVA-GLY2 2-3

Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
From the results above, it is seen that generally the treatment has improved the washing fastness of the
fabrics, but those cured treated fabrics exhibited better washing fastness than those that were not
cured. While those treatments that involved cross linking within the fabric were not fast to washing
but better than the untreated, and also the best result came from the fabric that was treated with
polyvinyl alcohol that was cross linked with glutaraldehyde.
The washing fastness could possibly be due to the formation of large molecular size, low water
solubility thin gels situated at the surface of the dyed substrate which physically resist diffusion of the
dye from dyed fabric during washing (Burkinshaw and Kumar 2009).
Another factor could possibly due to the fact that washing fastness was among the properties that can
be imparted to a fabric when it is finished (Cooke and Roth 1956).
b. Light Fastness
For a sample to qualify for the label „fast to light‟ a minimum rating of 5 in the scale 1-8 is required.
Below are the results obtained from the light fastness test of the specimen.
Table 2. Light Fastness
Specimens Fastness Specimens Fastness
FAA 4 FBA 4
FAB 4 FBB 4
FAC 5 FBC 4
FAD 5 FBD 4
PVA-GA1 6 PVA-GA2 6
PVA-GLY1 6 PVA-GLY2 6
The samples generally show moderate light fastness including the untreated one. But from the table it
can be seen that those specimens that showed low washing fastness have improved light fastness. This
was possibly because some direct dyes exhibit moderate fastness to light, and also there are some
cases where improvements in particular fastness properties have been obtained at the expense of
another fastness (Nkeonye, 1987).
4.4 Tensile Strength
The means of various force applied and length extended by the specimens can be summarized below;
Table 3. Tensile strengths for warp specimens
Specimens for
warp
Force applied
(Newton)
Length in
mm
Specimens for
weft
Force applied
(Newton)
Length in
mm
FAA 81.188 12.502 FAA 85.592 12.492
FAB 121.172 6.3476 FAB 108.972 12.454

Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
FAC 139.552 4.407 FAC 128.052 8.4012
FAD 146.332 5.6294 FAD 115.772 8.9778
PVA-GA1 131.827 7.8142 PVA-GA1 128.727 11.514
PVA-GLY1 133.564 7.0326 PVA-GLY1 142.742 10.262
Table 4. Tensile strengths for weft specimens
Specimens for
warp
Force applied
(Newton)
Length in
mm
Specimens for
weft
Force applied
(Newton)
Length in
mm
FBA 118.687 9.561 FBA 113.607 13.62
FBB 126.447 7.8936 FBB 117.647 11.316
FBC 134.7444 8.1206 FBC 87.914 9.859
FBD 108.484 8.4464 FBD 106.576 8.8368
PVA-GA2 108.976 7.5778 PVA-GA2 103.676 9.5452
PVA-GLY2 94.016 10.7272 PVA-GLY2 78.7544 12.16
Above were the various tensile strengths of both the air-dried, cured and the cross linked (within)
specimens. The results generally have shown an increase in the tensile strengths of the treated
specimens than the untreated one. This was possibly due to the higher force needed for the rupturing
of the treated specimens than that of the untreated, which is in line with the fact that tensile strengths
of materials are defined as the resistance of materials to tensile forces that tend to pull it apart
(Redmond, 2007).
5 Summary
Generally, fabric treated showed improvements in properties when compared to the untreated
specimens, but the results also showed that those specimens cured were better in performance than
those air-dried. On the other hand, the treatment which involved cross linking within the fabric also
showed improvements, only that it shows lower washing fastness.
Therefore, the use of cross linked polyvinyl alcohol as an after-treatment for cotton fabric dyed with
direct dyes is of course, a better means of after-treating cotton fabrics because of its soft texture which
tend to impart fastness, smoothness, and to retain the softness of a cotton fabric. In addition, cross
linked polyvinyl alcohol are inert and harmless when compared with formaldehyde based products
usually used, because release of formaldehyde is undesirable, particularly in enclosed environments.
6 Conclusion
Polyvinyl alcohol when used alone can improve properties like washing fastness, light fastness and
tensile strength of direct dyed cotton fabric. But when polyvinyl alcohol is cross linked with cross
linking agents (glutaraldehyde, glyoxal e.t.c) it was found to impart better properties than the
conventional PVA alone.

Vol. 04, No. 03, January 2016, pp. 69-79
7 Recommendation
This research work has opened an avenue for more researches to be done on producing the best
modified polyvinyl alcohol that will perfectly suit all the requirements that will serve as an after-
treatment for cotton dyed with direct dyes. In view of that I recommend that this work should be
reviewed so that the best polyvinyl alcohol based resins would be produced and used than the
formaldehyde based resins used which were harmful when released to the environment.
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