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January 01, 2015
Volume 2, Issue 1
GRW Newsletter
“HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 FROM GRW”
SKYPE:
If you communicate
With a GRW client
on SKYPE then
please add
grwglobal to the
conversation
whether GRW is
open or not or
copy the whole
skype
conversation and
email to GRW
THANK YOU
or your point of
interest here.
“If you fail to
plan, you are
planning to fail!”
― Benjamin
Franklin
Give us a call at: 01-619-399-7714 USA
Dear Sir,
This is to acknowledge the
receipt of the December
News Letter. I found it very
educational and really
broadening my horizon. It
also has the prospect of
offering business
opportunities for agencies.
I Will endeavour to take
advantage of the openings.
Regards
GRW agency Ghana
Dear Sir,
I confirmed that I have
received and read the
December 2014 GRW
AGENCY COMMENTS:
WARNING TO FIVE GRW AGENCIES:
By way of this article we
are giving warning to five
un-named GRW agencies
that termination of your
GRW agency is about to
happen. Please take this
seriously if you wish to
continue as the GRW
agency. Reason: You ---
1. Do not log in a
minimum of once
a week as per
agency contract
rules
2. Do not send in
monthly reports
by the fifth of
every month and
Newsletter.
Thanks for having this
newsletter that it will help
to GRW agencies
especially for me as a
beginner regarding this
work.
MORE POWER.
Philippines GRW agency
Dear Mr. Ray Porter,
Thank you as always for
your continuous support and
inspiration. Your monthly
newsletters are always filled
with new information,
reminders, advises,
encouragements and most
importantly motivational
highlights. I sincerely
appreciate the opportunity to
read your monthly
newsletter as it picks me up
with a heavy dose of energy
with renewal and robust
inspiration in the continuous
efforts to promote GRW
Maryland, USA.
Thank you again for your
time, effort and selflessness
in sharing such valuable
support with your monthly
newspaper.
May the Allah bless you and
your family
GRW AGENCY MARYLAND
Thank you as always for
your continuous support
and inspiration. Your
monthly newsletters are
always filled with new
information, reminders,
advises, encouragements
and most importantly
motivational highlights. I
sincerely appreciate the
opportunity to read your
monthly newsletter as it
picks me up with a heavy
dose of energy with
renewal and robust
inspiration in the
continuous efforts to
promote GRW Maryland,
USA.
Thank you again for your
time, effort and
selflessness in sharing
such valuable support
with your monthly
newspaper.
May the Allah bless you
and your family with
good health, peace and
prosperity
GRW AGENCY MARYLAND
our Agency Affairs
Manager
repeatedly is
forced to email
you asking where
is your monthly
report.
3. Do not answer
emails that we
send you
4. Show us no
evidence of your
setting up a
marketing plan for
your country.
5. Rarely if at all ask
us for product
quotes from
www.grwglobal.co
m for your
country.
6. Rarely if at all
bring any direct
producer product
for our promotion
to our clients
Please be forewarned that
you are on the verge of
being terminated as a GRW
agency and a new one
assigned for your country.
Thank you to all the other
GRW agencies that do
follow all the GRW
agency contract rules.
people interested in
purchasing a product or in
requesting your service.
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETER 2015 Page 2 of 28
Every GRW agency in
keeping with the continuity of
the GRW name should always
put “GRW Agency (Country
Name)” after your name on
emails to GRW clients
Please read the suggested
methods to market the 4N
Houses, at end of this article.
SAY GOODBYE TO
BRICK AND CONCRETE
4NATURE HOUSES ARE
EASY – FAST – SAFE –
ECONOMICAL
MODULAR DESIGN – A
HOUSE CAN BE
ERECTED WITHOUT
HEAVY MACHINERY.
There is extremely short
building time. You can
4N HOUSING FEATURE:
& ecologically friendly
buildings at very
affordable prices, for
both rural and urban
developing areas.
The construction time
using 4N technology
is reduced by over 10
times compared to
conventional building
methods like brick
and concrete.
4N HOUSING ARTICLE CONTINUED FROM ABOVE.
--customized to suit
your needs. 4N has
complete solutions for
institutions with our
products being
modular, innovative
and sustainable. It
can be an individual
4N HOUSING ARTICLE CONTINUED FROM ABOVE
move in matter of days.
4N is Resistant to natural
disasters, earthquakes,
storms, fire, flood, insects
and termites.
They are very
affordable.
You save significantly
on your building
costs.
4Nature has
indigenously
innovated modular
building concepts
based on sandwiched
technology, elements
made of solid wood,
high density Mg0
building boards,
insulation wool &
other components.
The elements allow
construction of safe,
durable
(continue below)
and ecologically
friendly buildings
at very affordable
prices, for both
rural and urban
developing
areas. The
construction time
using 4N
technology is
reduced by over
10 times
compared to
conventional
building methods
like brick &
concrete.
4Nature has
indigenously
innovated
modular building
concepts based
on sandwiched
technology
elements made
of solid wood,
high density MgO
building boards,
The 4Nature has
ready made offerings
of building material &
solutions for real
estate developers,
individual buyers of
homes , healthcare
industry , hotels & the
resorts industry.
4Nature specializes in
building solutions for
hurricane ,
earthquakes, & other
disaster hit areas. 4N
structures are
certified to withstand
earthquake tremors
up to 8.9 on the
Richter scale & wind
speeds up to 160 km
per hour.
SOLUTIONS:
Modular element
structures
(continue below)
Modular element
structures
.
4Nature has
readymade
offerings of
building material &
solutions for Real
estate developers,
planning to build a
home or institutions
like mining
companies, hospitals,
schools, offices,
scouting around for
structures to manage
their requirements.
Also for when hotels
& tourism
companies,investors
& real estate
developers need real-
time solutions.
Continue on page 7
real-time solutions
4Nature offers
technical expertise
t
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015
Page 3 of 28
This is the first newsletter
for 2015 from GRW. I am
going to talk in firm
language as it is
imperative that we filter out
the GRW agencies that do
not follow the most simple
GRW rules and protocols.
But first I want to state we
are so blessed to have so
many sincere and
dedicated and loyal and
honest GRW agencies
across the world. I
personally, and all GRW
management are so
appreciative and proud to
have you in our Union of
GRW Agencies
Worldwide. In the
J.L. BRADLEY / C.E.O.
to the Agency Quotation
Form. Please request it
from GRW. I want to
remind everyone that the
Producer Section of the
form should be filled out
properly and your name
should not be put in that
section as it is for the
producer that you are
getting the product from
for resale to GRW clients.
The producer information
is kept in your file and not
given to others.
You will find special
articles on COTTON
TWILL & 4N HOUSING in
J.L. Bradley Article continued from above
SPECIAL PRODUCT:
GREECE: HONEY with
edible gold leaf 24 ct.in it.
Email: grwglobal@aol.com
or jbradley@grwglobal.com
for more information
last few weeks we have
terminated several GRW
agencies and assigned
new ones in those
countries. We gave those
terminated agencies every
opportunity to correct their
violation of the GRW
agency contract rules.
They could not follow
simply rules of sending in
their monthly report by the
fifth of every month and by
logging in to the private
agency site
www.grwagency.com a
minimum of once a week.
How hard is it to do that?
Well, those agencies
terminated could or would
not do it and now we have
new agencies in those
countries.
Cement is needed for
construction across the
world. Rice is one of the
top edible products in the
world. GRW wants to see
more requests from it’s
GRW agencies for these
products. You are missing
an opportunity for making
sales by not developing a
marketing plan and
finding buyers for these
products. You can find
“info” on the GRW public
website . Agency
Quotation Form:: We
have some slight
revision— continue below
SIGNING YOUR NAME
AS GRW AGENCY …. ON
YOUR EMAILS DEALING
WITH GRW BUSINESS
GRW IN AND OUT
PROGRAM
If someone does not reply
to emails, or send in
monthly reports or log in
then no monthly
newsletters will go to
them.
The purpose of a
newsletter is to provide
specialized information to
a targeted audience.
Newsletters can be a great
way to market your
product or service, and
also can create credibility
and build your
organization’s identity
among peers, members,
employees, or
vendoSHOrs.
First, determine the
audience of the newsletter.
This could be anyone who
this January 2015
newsletter. It is our desire
that you investigate the
prospects of buyers in
your country for these
products. You want to
make money then this is
one way to do it, by
following thru on these
products for your buyers
in your country.
Language Converter:
You are already aware
that we have a language
coverter to convert all of
our web sites to just about
any language in the world.
You click the language on
the home page and it
changes the whole web
site to your language. You
can use this to have your
clients review the web site
in their own language. It
could very well help you
make sales in your
country.
We cannot over
emphasize your following
the GRW In and Out
program
A VERY HAPPY NEW
YEAR 2015 TO YOU.
You can also research
articles or find “filler”
articles by accessing the
World Wide Web. You can
write about a variety of
k or graphic.
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETER 2015 Page 4 of 28
Cotton Twill Article by
Tanveer Ansari
“Do not let your fire go out,
spark by irreplaceable spark,
in the hopeless swamps of the
not-quite, the not-yet, and the
not-at-all.
Do not let the hero in your soul
perish in lonely frustration, for
the life you deserved and have never
been able to reach. The world you desire
can be won. It exists. It is real.
It is possible. It is YOURS”
--Ayn Rand
FACTS – PAKISTAN
COTTON TEXTILES
 On August 14,
1947 when
Pakistan got its
independence
from the British
Rulers and from
the Indian
Cotton Twill Feature
 In international
market, over
90% cotton of
coarse count is
consumed, while
fine counts (80
counts and
above) is used
for particular
 been the only
industry that has
generated huge
employment for
both skilled and
unskilled labor.
 The textile
industry
continues to be
the second
largest
employment
Cotton Twill continued from above
Cotton Twill continued from above
.”
The GRW newsletters are for
GRW agencies only and not
for providing to your
clients.You can copy certain
data out of it if you wish and
provide to your clients.
Rulers, Pakistan
got agricultural
fields, soil of the
fields was
appropriate for
the cotton crop
from which over
90% coarse
count cotton
(from 5 to 30
counts) could be
produced,
whereas Indian
soil was
appropriate to
produce fine
count cotton
(100 counts and
above).

 Continue Below
 In international
market, over
90% cotton of
coarse count is
consumed, while
fine counts (80
counts and
above) is used
for particular
cotton textiles,
and the
consumption of
which is less
than 10% of the
world’s
requirements.
 The Textile
industry is the
largest
manufacturing
industy
manufacturing
industry in
Pakistan. It has
traditionally,
after
agriculture,been
the only industry
that has
generated huge
employment for
both skilled and
unskilled labor.
 The textile
industry
continues to be
cotton textiles,
and the
consumption of
which is less
than 10% of the
world’s
requirements.
 The Textile
industry is the
largest
manufacturing
industy
manufacturing
industry in
Pakistan. It has
traditionally,
after agriculture,

 Continue Below
 been the only
industry that has
generated huge
employment for
both skilled and
unskilled labor.
generating
sector.
 Pakistan is the
8th largest
exporter of
textile products
in Asia.
 This sector
contributes 8.5%
to the GDP.
 The Textile
sector provides
employment to
about 15 million
people or
roughly 30% of
the 49 million
workforce of the
country.
 Pakistan is the
4th largest
producer of
cotton in the
world.
Continue on Page 12
 Pakistan is the
third largest
spinning
capacity in Asia
after China and
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015
Page 5 of 28
I WANT TO SAY HAPPY
NEW YEAR 2015 TO ALL
OF OUR GRW
AGENCIES.
I know it was stated in the
December 2014
newsletter that certain
things would be in this
January 2015 newsletter.
GREECE ARTICLE:
Unfortunately we could
not do the Greece article
this month and it is our
plan for it to be in the
February 2015 issue.
KIRIBATI SOLAR
GENERATOR
This will be in the
February 2015 issue.
RAY PORTER/ PRESIDENT
I know all GRW agencies
studied the product section
of the December 2014
newsletter to see which
items you could promote in
your country.
There were three GRW
agencies that did not
confirm to me as I asked
for all to do, that they
received and read the
December 2014
newsletter. Those
agencies have their files
on our Agency Committee
Manager’s desk for review.
I have a strong feeling we
will be seeing several
more new GRW agencies
Ray Porter continued from above:
“Cherish your vision and your
dream
as they are the children of
your soul,
the blueprints of your ultimate
achievements”
.----Napoleon Hill, American
author
PLEASE READ THE BELOW
ATTENTIVELY & CLOSELY
JESSE CHAVEZ
ARTICLE
This too will be in
February 2015 newsletter.
In this January 2015
newsletter you have two
product articles.
One is on the 4N Housing
and the other one is on
Cotton Twill from
Pakistan.
We send these articles to
you with the goal of your
going out and developing
a marketing plan and
promoting them thru out
the whole country to
various potential buyers.
If you read the articles and
you do not promote them,
then obviously you will not
receive any orders for
them.
We know you will take an
active approach and study
the information on them,
develop a marketing plan
and contact the potential
clients for the products.
I notice a lot of new GRW
agencies coming on
board. Our CEO was
serious about clearing out
the GRW agencies that
did not follow GRW
contract protocols and
assigning new motivated
GRW agencies in those
countries.. (continue
below)
Continue below
c
newsletter is to provide
specialized information to
a targeted audience.
Newsletters can be a
great way to market your
product or service, and
also can create credibility
and build your
organization’s identity
among peers, members,
employees, or vendors.
First, determine the
audience of the
newsletter. This could be
anyone who might benefit
from the information it
contains, for example,
employees or people
interested in purchasing a
product or in requesting
your service.
You can compile a mailing
list from business reply
cards, customer
information sheets,
soon in those countries.
We use to get so many
that wanted us to convert
things on our websites
into Spanish, or Arabic, or
French or some other
language so they could
give it to their clients. Now
you can get it yourself off
our websites in just about
any language. Or you
could give the website
address to your clients to
read it themselves. You
should have no fear of
giving your clients our
web sites as you have the
exclusive contract of GRW
agency for your country
subject to the protocols of
the GRW agency contract.
MENTORING PROGRAM:
I am thankful that so many
of you finished the four
step Mentoring program
with me and gave me
weekly updates. There are
a few who did not finish
the program and they
(continue to page 6)
Ray Porter / President .
PAGE 6
GRW KNOWS THAT EACH OF YOU WILL READ THE DATA ON THE 4N HOUSING AND THE
COTTON TWILL. WE KNOW YOU WILL GIVE REAL CAREFUL THOUGHT TO HOW THESE CAN
BE MARKETED IN YOUR COUNTRY. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE WITH
THESE PRODUCTS, THEN WE KNOW YOU WILL GO BACK TO THE MARKETING PLAN ARTICLE
MR ANSARI WROTE IN ONE OF THE PREVIOUS GRW NEWSLETTERS, AND THAT YOU WILL
DO THE RESEARCH NECESSARY TO FIND BUYERS FOR THESE PRODUCTS IN YOUR
COUNTRY. YOU HAVE TO PLAN YOUR WORK AND WORK YOUR PLAN. THESE NEWSLETTERS
ARE HERE TO HELP YOU WITH PRODUCTS TO PROMOTE IN YOUR COUNTRY AND WITH
IDEAS TO UTILIZE TO MAKE SALES, AND GIVE YOU EVERY OPPORTUNITY FOR SUCCESS.
If you are in the process of
closing a sale of a product
or service of GRW then it
is very important you read
all the data on the private
GRW agency web site to
know the GRW Way on
closing procedures to
follow. Things like the
RAY PORTER /
CONTIUED
are no longer with us, and
the ones that did not
complete the Mentoring
Program that are still with
us are under watchful eye.
GRW IN AND OUT
PROGRAM:
We say it so often, but
What is the GRW Way? Ray Porter Article continued from above
Ray Porter Continued:
the Contact Us button on
the private site. Please
remember to put your
country name on the
Contact Us button, your
Changes to Contact Us on private agency site www.grwagency.com
PHONE:
(619) 399-7714 USA
E-MAIL:
From Africa:
jbradley@grwglobal.com
Everywhere Else:
grwglobal@aol.com
President:
grwusa@aol.com
Monthly Reports:
grwmonthlyreports@grwglobal.
com
Public :
www.grwglobal.com
Private:
www.grwagency.com
that he was making sure
that only the GRW
agencies that were
honest, loyal, dedicated,
motivated and that
followed all GRW agency
rules and protocols will
remain in our Union of
GRW Agencies
Worldwide.
Continue below
In a few words, it should
accurately represent the
contents of the story and
draw readers into the
story. Develop the
headline before you write
the story. This way, the
headline will help you
keep the story focused.
Examples of possible
headlines include Product
Wins Industry Award, New
Product Can Save You
Time, Membership Drive
Exceeds Goals, and New
Office Opens Near You.
One benefit of using your
newsletter as a
promotional tool is that
you can reuse content
from other marketing
materials, such as press
releases and market
studies.
While your main goal of
distributing a newsletter
might be to sell your
product or service, the key
to a successful newsletter
is making it useful to your
readers.
again there are some
agencies that concentrate
on only what they can sell
out of their country and do
nothing on promoting
GRW product from
www.grwglobal.com into
their country. These
GRW agencies will not be
with us for long as our
CEO made a promise to
his father, (our founder)
GRW name to be on the
Sales Contract and our
website address even if
the product is being sold
direct to the GRW buyer
by the producer. There
are other things involving
sales or purchasing
procedure on our private
agency site and if you
have not done so already,
then we recommend you
read them all so you know
the proper GRW WAY.
In 2015 you will start
noticing changes on
(continue below)
While your main goal of
distributing a newsletter
might be to sell your
product or service, the key
to a successful newsletter
is making it useful to your
readers.
A great way to add useful
content to your newsletter
is to develop and write
your own articles, or to
include a calendar of
upcoming events or a
special offer that promotes
a new product.
You can also research
articles or find “filler”
articles by accessing the
World Wide Web. You can
write about a variety of
topics, but try to keep your
articles short.
email address and click
“Send” so it will go in your
file showing the weekly
log in as per the agency
contract rules.
I want you all to know
that we at GRW Main
appreciate all of you
GRW agencies greatly
and we ask the
Almighty to watch over
and bless you
.greatly.
Think about your article
and ask yourself if the
picture supports or
enhances the message
you’re trying to convey.
Avoid selecting images
that appear to be out of
context.
Microsoft includes
thousands of clip art
images that you can
choose and import into
your newsletter. There are
also several tools you can
use to draw shapes and
symbols.
Happy
2015
to all of you
Page 7 Continued from Page 2
4N Housing
4N modular structures are an easy,fast and
economical option. 4Nature’s turnaround time
for installation is almost magical ! ! !
AFFORDABLE &
ECOLOGICAL
HOUSING
Example floor plans
GRW AGENCIES CAN CONTACT GRW for prices, and
designs, however 4N can work also according to clients
requests/diagrams
ADDITIONAL / TRANSPORT / LOGISTICS:
4Nature is absolutely a natural product and easy to be
recycled, hence better environment.
Very easy to transport
4Nature house 18sqm 10 in 40 foot HC ctr
4Nature house 37sqm 6 in 40 foot HC ctr
4Nature house 55sqm 5 in 40 foot HC ctr
4Nature house 73sqm 2 in 40 foot HC ctr
4Nature house 92 sqm 1 ½ in 40 foot HC ctr
this is saving on the Co2 production of transports
Please note: we can do also houses in 2 Floors.
Using the boards of 4NATURE in your next project, you
will realize advantages of 4NATURE.
Also you will meet the demand of keeping environment as
protected as possible, also meet the standards for
recycling.
PLEASE CONTINUE TO PAGE 8
Page 8
Please continue to the next page
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015
Page 9 of 28
Page 10
PRODUCTION
4Nature production facility is strategically located in the port of Hamina, Finland, with
direct access to trains trucks and ships. Our factory is located in the special
manufacturing zone to facilitate easy exports & imports. 4N’s current production
capacity is 50 000 sq meter per month scalable to 500 000 sq meter per month.
LOGISTICS
4Nature logistics is best in the business. We work with a consortium of logistics service
providers thus covering all the major & minor ports across the globe. We have
developed an innovative packaging technique to transport & ship our homes in semi
knocked condition, anywhere in the world. Given the fact that we are located on the
harbour of Valko-Finland, our logistical operations are efficient & safe & in compliance
with global safety standards.
ASSEMBLY AT SITE.
4Nature homes are manufactured as elements in the factories & are assembled at the
customer site. This is the technology that has revolutionized the speed of construction
many folds compared to conventional brick & concrete. Assembly onsite also offers
advantages such as:
> A clean & safe construction environment,
> High degree of precision in terms of engineering & design
> On an average 10 times faster
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015
Page 11 of 28
XXXXX XXXXX
HOW TO MARKET 4N HOUSES IN
YOUR COUNTRY:
If you market the 4N houses properly
and take this project seriously, we
guarantee you a very good profit
margin in a very short period of time.
We are saying all this, because our
factory has a capacity to produce from
50,000 square m scalable to 500,000
square m per month and installation is
MAGICAL!
You can promote the 4N houses to:
Individuals who are planning to build
their new home,
Institutions like Mining companies,
Hospitals, Clinics, Offices, Schools,
Hotels, Holiday complex, Real Estate
investors, Contactors, Army buildings
etc
Please note that we have ready
solutions for individual homes, farm
houses, schools and even floating
houses, however we are flexible and
produce our 4N houses as per client’s
designs.
You are one step away from starting
something fruitful for your Company,
so please do not hesitate to contact us
for more details
NOW IT IS UP TO YOU GRW AGENCIES TO
SEE THE OPPORTUNITY IN MARKETING
THE 4N HOUSING IN EVERY AREA OF YOUR
COUNTRY.
WE ARE COUNTING ON YOUR PROMOTING
THIS PRODUCT AND ALSO THE COTTON
TWILL PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN THIS
NEWSLETTER TOO.
THIS CONCLUDES THE 4N HOUSING
ARTICLE
Page 12
COTTON TWILL CONTINUED FROM PAGE 4
 Pakistan is the third largest spinning capacity
in Asia after China and India and contributes
5% to the global spinning capacity.
 At present, there are 1,221 ginning units, 442
spinning units, 124 large spinning units and
425 small units which produce textile
products.
 The Textile Industry is dominated by Punjab
Province.
 3% of USA imports of clothing and other
form of textiles is covered by Pakistan.
 Textile exports in 1999 were $5.2 billion and
rose to become $10.5 billion by 2007.
 Textile exports managed to increase at a very
decent growth of 16% in 2006. In the period
July 2007 – June 2008, textile exports were
US$10.62 billion.
Textile manufacturing Industry is based on the
conversion of three types of fiber into yarn then
fabric, then textiles. These are then fabricated into
cloths or other artifacts. Cotton remains the most
important natural fiber, so is treated in depth. There
are many variable processes available at the spinning
and fabric-forming stages coupled with the
complexities of the finishing and colouration
processes to the production of a wide ranges of
products. There remains a large industry that uses
hand techniques to achieve the same results.
Processing of cotton
Cotton
Manufacturin
g Processes
Bale Breaker Blowing Room
Willowing
Breaker Scutcher Batting
Finishing
Scutcher
Lapping
Carding Carding Room
Silver Lap
Combing
Drawing
Slubbing
Intermediate
Roving Fine Roving
Mule Spinning - Ring Spinning Spinning
Reeling Doubling
Winding Bundling Bleaching
Weaving shed Winding
Beaming Cabling
Warping Gassing
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015
Page 13 of 28
Sizing/Slashing/
Dressing
Spooling
Weaving
Cloth
Yarn (Cheese)- -
Bundle
Sewing Thread
Cotton is the world's most important natural fiber. In
the year 2007, the global yield was 25 million tons
from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50
countries.
There are six stages as below:
Cultivating and harvesting
Cotton is grown anywhere with long, hot dry
summers with plenty of sunshine and low humidity.
Indian cotton, gossypium arboreum, is finer but the
staple is only suitable for hand processing. American
cotton, gossypium hirsutum, produces the longer
staple needed for machine production. Planting is
from September to mid November and the crop is
harvested between March and June. The cotton
balls are harvested by stripper harvesters and
spindle pickers, that remove the entire ball from the
plant. The cotton ball is the seed pod of the cotton
plant, attached to each of the thousands of seeds
are fibres about 2.5 cm long.
Ginning
The seed cotton goes in to a Cotton Ginning.
The cotton gin separates seeds and removes
the "trash" (dirt, stems and leaves) from the
fibre. In a saw gin, circular saws grab the
fibre and pull it through a grating that is too
narrow for the seeds to pass. A roller gin is
used with longer staple cotton. Here a leather
roller captures the cotton. A knife blade, set
close to the roller, detaches the seeds by
drawing them through teeth in circular saws
and revolving brushes which clean them
away. The ginned cotton fibre, known as lint,
is then compressed into bales which are about
1.5 m tall and weigh almost 220 kg. Only
33% of the crop is usable lint. Commercial
cotton is priced by quality, and that broadly
relates to the average length of the staple, and
the variety of the plant. Longer staple cotton
(2½ in to 1¼ in) is called Egyptian, medium
staple (1¼ in to ¾ in) is called American
upland and short staple (less than ¾ in) is
called Indian. The cotton seed is pressed into
a cooking oil. The husks and meal are
processed into animal feed, and the stems
into paper.
Preparatory processes - preparation of yarn
 Ginning, bale-making and transportation
is done in the country of origin.
 Opening and cleaning
Platt Bros. Picker
 Cotton mills get the cotton shipped to them in
large, 500 pound bales. When the cotton
comes out of a bale, it is all packed together
and still contains vegetable matter. The bale
is broken open using a machine with large
spikes. It is called an Opener. In order to
fluff up the cotton and remove the vegetable
matter, the cotton is sent through a picker, or
similar machines. The cotton is fed into a
machine known as a picker, and gets beaten
with a beater bar in order to loosen it up. It is
fed through various rollers, which serve to
remove the vegetable matter. The cotton,
aided by fans, then collects on a screen and
gets fed through more rollers till it emerges
as a continuous soft fleecy sheet.
Blending,
Mixing & Scutching: Scutching refers to the
process of cleaning cotton of its seeds and other
impurities. The first scutching machine was
invented in 1797, but did not come into further
mainstream use until after 1808 or 1809, when it
was introduced and used in Manchester,
England. By 1816, it had become generally
adopted. The scutching machine worked by
passing the cotton through a pair of rollers, and
then striking it with iron or steel bars called
beater bars or beaters. The beaters, which turn
very quickly, strike the cotton hard and knock the
seeds out. This process is done over a series of
parallel bars so as to allow the seeds to fall
through. At the same time, air is blown across the
bars, which carries the cotton into a cotton
chamber.
 Carding
Carding machine
A Combing machine
Carding: the fibres are separated and then
assembled into a loose strand (sliver or tow)
at the conclusion of this stage. The cotton
comes off of the picking machine in laps, and
is then taken to carding machines. The
carders line up the fibres nicely to make them
easier to spin. The carding machine consists
mainly of one big roller with smaller ones
surrounding it. All of the rollers are covered
in small teeth, and as the cotton progresses
further on the teeth get finer (i.e. closer
together). The cotton leaves the carding
machine in the form of a sliver; a large rope
of fibres.
Note: In a wider sense Carding can refer to
these four processes: Willowing- loosening
the fibres; Lapping- removing the dust to
create a flat sheet or lap of cotton; Carding-
combing the tangled lap into a thick rope of
1/2 in in diameter, a sliver; and Drawing-
where a drawing frame combines 4 slivers
into one- repeated for increased quality.
 Combing is optional, but is used to remove
the shorter fibres, creating a stronger yarn.
 Drawing the fibres are straightened
Several slivers are combined. Each sliver will
have thin and thick spots, and by combining
several slivers together a more consistent size
can be reached. Since combining several
slivers produces a very thick rope of cotton
fibres, directly after being combined the
slivers are separated into rovings. These
rovings (or slubbings) are then what are used
in the spinning process.
Generally speaking, for machine processing,
a roving is about the width of a pencil.
 Drawing frame: Draws the strand out
 Slubbing Frame: adds twist, and
winds onto bobbins
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 Intermediate Frames: are used to
repeat the slubbing process to produce
a finer yarn.
 Roving frames: reduces to a finer
thread, gives more twist, makes more
regular and even in thickness, and
winds onto a smaller tube.
Spinning - yarn manufacture
Cotton – Spinning Machinery
Most spinning today is done using Break or
Open-end spinning, this is a technique where
the staples are blown by air into a rotating
drum, where they attach themselves to the
tail of formed yarn that is continually being
drawn out of the chamber. Other methods of
break spinning use needles and electrostatic
forces. This method has replace the older
methods of ring and mule spinning. It is also
is easily adapted for artificial fibres.
The spinning machines takes the roving, thins
it and twists it, creating yarn which it winds
onto a bobbin.
In mule spinning the roving is pulled off a
bobbin and fed through some rollers, which
are feeding at several different speeds. This
thins the roving at a consistent rate. If the
roving was not a consistent size, then this
step could cause a break in the yarn, or could
jam the machine. The yarn is twisted through
the spinning of the bobbin as the carriage
moves out, and is rolled onto a cylinder
called a spindle, which then produces a cone-
shaped bundle of fibres known as a "cop", as
the carriage returns. Mule spinning produces
a finer thread than the less skilled ring
spinning.
 The mule was an intermittent process,
as the frame advanced and returned a
distance of 5ft.It was the descendant
of 1779 Crompton device. It produces
a softer less twisted thread that was
favoured for fines and for weft.
 The ring was a descendant of the
Arkwright water Frame 1769. It was a
continuous process, the yarn was
coarser, had a greater twist and was
stronger so was suited to be warp.
Ring spinning is slow due to the
distance the thread must pass around
the ring, other methods have been
introduced.
Sewing thread, was made of several threads
twisted together, or doubled.
Checking
This is the process where each of the bobbins is rewound
to give a tighter bobbin.
Folding and twisting
Plying is done by pulling yarn from two or more bobbins
and twisting it together, in the opposite direction that in
which it was spun. Depending on the weight desired, the
cotton may or may not be plied, and the number of
strands twisted together varies.
Gassing
Singe & Textiles and Gassing (textile
process). Gassing is the process of passing
yarn, as distinct from fabric very rapidly
through a series of Bunsen gas flames in a
gassing frame, in order to burn off the
projecting fibers and make the thread round
and smooth and also brighter. Only the better
qualities of yarn are gassed, such as that used
for voiles, poplins, venetians, gabardines,
many Egyptian qualities, etc. There is a loss
of weight in gassing, which varies' about 5 to
8 per cent., so that if a 2/60's yarn is required
2/56's would be used. The gassed yarn is
darker in shade afterwards, but should not be
scorched.
Mule spinning
Mule spinning
Ring spinning
Ring spinning
Measurements
Units of textile measurement.
 Cotton Counts: The number of pieces of
thread, 840 yards long needed to make up
1 lb weight. 10 count cotton means that
10x840 yd weighs 1 lb. This is coarser than
40 count cotton where 40x840 yards are
needed. In the United Kingdom, Counts to
40s are coarse (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s
are medium counts and above 80 is a fine
count. In the United States ones to 20s are
coarse counts.
 Hank: A length of 7 leas or 840 yards
 Thread: A length of 54 in (the circumference
of a warp beam)
 Bundle: Usually 10 lb
 Lea: A length of 80 threads or 120 yards
 Denier: this is an alternative method. It is
defined as a number that is equivalent to the
weight in grams of 9000m of a single yarn.
15 denier is finer than 30 denier.
 Tex: is the weight in grams of 1 km of yarn.
The worsted hank is only 560 yd
Weaving-fabric manufacture
The weaving process uses a loom. The length way
threads are known as the wrap, and the cross way
threads are known as the Weft. The warp which must
be strong needs to be presented to loom on a warp
beam. The weft passes across the loom in a shuttle
that carries the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are
automatically changed by the loom. Thus, the yarn
needs to be wrapped onto a beam, and onto pirns
before weaving can commence.
Winding
After being spun and plied, the cotton thread
is taken to a warping room where the
winding machine takes the required length of
yarn and winds it onto wrappers bobbins
Warping or beaming
A Wrapper
Racks of bobbins are set up to hold the thread
while it is rolled onto the warp bar of a loom.
Because the thread is fine, often three of
these would be combined to get the desired
thread count.
Slasher sizing machine needed for
strengthening the warp by adding starch to
reduce breakage of the yarns.
 Sizing
 Drawing in, Looming
The process of drawing each end of the warp
separately through the dents of the reed and
the eyes of the healds, in the order indicated
by the draft.
 Pirning (Processing the weft)
Pirn winding frame was used to transfer the
weft from cheeses of yarn onto the pirns that
would fit into the shuttle
 Weaving
Power Looms
At this point, the thread is woven. Depending
on the era, one person could manage
anywhere from 3 to 100 machines. In the mid
nineteenth century, four was the standard
number. A skilled weaver in 1925 would run
6 Lancashire Looms. As time progressed new
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mechanisms were added that stopped the
loom any time something went wrong. The
mechanisms checked for such things as a
broken warp thread, broken weft thread, the
shuttle going straight across, and if the
shuttle was empty. Forty of these Northrop
Looms or automatic looms could be operated
by one skilled worker.
A Draper loom in textile museum, Lowell,
Massachusetts
The three primary movements of a loom are
shedding, picking, and beating-up.
 Shedding: The operation of dividing
the warp into two lines, so that the
shuttle can pass between these lines.
There are two general kinds of sheds-
"open" and "closed." Open Shed-The
warp threads are moved when the
pattern requires it-from one line to the
other. Closed Shed-The warp threads
are all placed level in one line after
each pick.
 Picking: The operation of projecting
the shuttle from side to side of the
loom through the division in the warp
threads. This is done by the over pick
or under pick motions. The over pick
is suitable for quick-running looms,
whereas the under pick is best for
heavy or slow looms.
 Beating-up: The third primary
movement of the loom when making
cloth, and is the action of the reed as
it drives each pick of weft to the fell
of the cloth.
The Lancashire Loom was the first semi-
automatic loom. Jacquard looms and Dobby
looms are looms that have sophisticated
methods of shedding. They may be separate
looms, or mechanisms added to a plain loom.
A Northrop Loom was fully automatic and
was mass produced between 1909 and the
mid-1960s. Modern looms run faster and do
not use a shuttle: there are air jet looms,
water jet looms and rapier looms.
Measurements
 Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends
refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth
can be expressed as the number of picks and
ends per quarter inch square, or per inch
square. Ends is always written first. For
example: Heavy domestics are made from
coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and
weft, and about 48 ends and 52 picks.
Associated job titles
 Piecer Scavenger
Weaver
 Tackler Draw boy
Pirner
Issues
When a hand loom was located in the home, children
helped with the weaving process from an early age.
Piecing needs dexterity, and a child can be as
productive as an adult. When weaving moves from
the home to the mill, children are often allowed to
help their older sisters, and laws have to be made to
prevent child labor becoming established.
Knitting- fabric manufacture
A circular knitting machine.
Close-up on the needles.
Knitting be machine is done in two different ways;
warp and weft. Weft knitting (as seen in the pictures)
is similar in method to hand knitting with stitches all
connected to each other horizontally. Various weft
machines can be configured to produce textiles from
a single spool of yarn or multiple spools depending
on the size of the machine cylinder (where the
needles are bedded). In a warp knit there are many
pieces of yarn and there are vertical chains,
zigzagged together by crossing the yarn. Cotton
Warp knits do not stretch as much as a weft knit, and
it is run-resistant. A weft knit is not run-resistant, but
stretches more. This is especially true if spools of
spandex are processed from separate spool
containers and interwoven through the cylinder with
cotton yarn, giving the finished product more
flexibility and making it less prone to having a
'baggy' appearance. The average t-shirt is a weft knit.
Finishing- processing of textiles
The woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only
contains impurities, including warp size, but requires
further treatment in order to develop its full textile
potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable
added value by applying one or more finishing
processes.
 Desising: Depending on the size that has
been used, the cloth may be steeped in a
dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may
be used to break down the size.[27]
 Scouring: Scouring, is a chemical washing
process carried out on cotton fabric to
remove natural wax and non-fibrous
impurities (e.g. the remains of seed
fragments) from the fibres and any added
soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in
iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled
in an alkali, which forms a soap with free
fatty acids (saponification).
 A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of
sodium hydroxide can be boiled under
pressure, excluding oxygen which would
degrade the cellulose in the fibre. If the
appropriate reagebts are used, scouring will
also remove size from the fabric although
desizing often precedes scouring and is
considered to be a separate process known as
fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring
are prerequisites to most of the other
finishing processes. At this stage even the
most naturally white cotton fibres are
yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is
required.
 Bleaching
Textile Bleaching; Bleaching improves
whiteness by removing natural coloration and
remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the
degree of bleaching necessary is determined by
the required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton
being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an
oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium
hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the
fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower
levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example.
However, for white bed sheetings and medical
applications, the highest levels of whiteness and
absorbency are essential.
 Mercerising
Mercerized Cotton: A further possibility is
mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with
caustic sodasolution to cause swelling of the fibres.
This results in improved lustre, strength and dye
affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all
alkali must be washed out before the tension is
released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing
can take place directly on grey cloth, or after
bleaching. Many other chemical treatments may be
applied to cotton fabrics to produce low
flammability, crease resist and other special effects
but four important non-chemical finishing treatments
are:
 Singeing
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Singe & Textiles: Singeing is designed to burn off
the surface fibres from the fabric to produce
smoothness. The fabric passes over brushes to raise
the fibres, then passes over a plate heated by gas
flames.
 Raising: Another finishing process is raising.
During raising, the fabric surface is treated
with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres,
thereby imparting hairiness, softness and
warmth, as in flannelette.
 Calendering: Calendering is the third
important mechanical process, in which the
fabric is passed between heated rollers to
generate smooth, polished or embossed
effects depending on roller surface properties
and relative speeds.
 Shrinking (Sanforizing): Finally,
mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to
as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced
to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a
fabric in which any residual tendency to
shrink after subsequent laundering is
minimal.
 Dyeing: Finally, cotton is an absorbent fibre
which responds readily to colouration
processes. Dyeing, for instance, is commonly
carried out with an anionic direct dye by
completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in
an aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed
procedure. For improved fastness to washing,
rubbing and light, other dyes such as vats and
reactives are commonly used. These require
more complex chemistry during processing
and are thus more expensive to apply.
 Textile Printing
Printing, on the other hand, is the application
of colour in the form of a paste or ink to the
surface of a fabric, in a predetermined
pattern. It may be considered as localised
dyeing. Printing designs onto already dyed
fabric is also possible.
Economic, environmental and political
consequences of cotton manufacture
The growth of cotton is divided into two segments
i.e. organic and genetically modified. Cotton crop
provides livelihood to millions of people but its
production is becoming expensive because of high
water consumption, use of expensive pesticides,
insecticides and fertiliser. Genetically Modified
products aim to increase disease resistance and
reduce the water required. The organic sector was
worth $583 million. Genetically Modified cotton, in
2007, occupied 43% of cotton growing areas. Cotton
is farmed intensively and uses large amounts of
fertilizer and 25% of the world's insecticides. Native
Indian varieties of cotton were rainwater fed, but
modern hybrids used for the mills need irrigation,
which spreads pests. The 5% of cotton-bearing land
in India uses 55% of all pesticides used in India.
The consumption of energy in form of water and
electricity is relatively high, especially in processes
like washing, de-sizing, bleaching, rinsing, dyeing,
printing, coating and finishing. Processing is time
consuming. The major portion of water in textile
industry is used for wet processing of textile (70 per
cent). Approximately 25 per cent of energy in the
total textile production like fibre production,
spinning, twisting, weaving, knitting, clothing
manufacturing etc. is used in dyeing. About 34 per
cent of energy is consumed in spinning, 23 per cent
in weaving, 38 per cent in chemical wet processing
and five per cent in miscellaneous processes. Power
dominates consumption pattern in spinning and
weaving, while thermal energy is the major factor for
chemical wet processing. Before mechanisation,
cotton was harvested manually by farmers in India
and by African slaves in America. In 2012
Uzbekistan was a major exporter of cotton and uses
manual labour during the harvest. Human rights
groups claim that health care professionals and
children are forced to pick cotton.
Processing of other vegetable fibres
Flax: Flax is a Bast Fibre, which means it comes in
bundles under the bark of the Linum usitatissimum
plant. The plant flowers and is harvested.
 Retting Breaking Scutching
Hackling or Combing
FLAX is now treated like cotton.
Jute: Jute is a Bast Fibre which comes from the
inner bark of the plants of the Corchorus genus. It is
retted like flax, sundried and baled. When spinning a
small amount of oil must be added to the fibre. It can
be bleached and dyed. It was used for sacks and bags
but is now used for the backing for carpets. Jute can
be blended with other fibres to make composite
fabrics and work continues in Bangladesh to refine
the processes and extend the range of usage possible.
In the 1970s, jute-cotton composite fabrics were
known as jutton fabrics.
Hemp
Hemp is a Bast Fibre from the inner bark of
Cannabis sativa. It is difficult to bleach, it is used for
making cord and rope.
 Retting
 Separating
 Pounding
Other bast fibers: These bast fibers can also be used:
Kenaf, Urena, Ramie, Nettle.
Other leaf fibers. Sisal is the main leaf fiber used;
others are: abaca and henequen.
Processing of protein fibers
Wool
comes from domesticated sheep. It forms two
products, woolens and worsteds. Sheep has two sorts
of wool and it is the inner coat that is used. This can
be mixed with wool that has been recovered from
rags. Shoddy is the term for recovered wool that is
not matted, while Mungo comes from Felted wool.
Extract is recovered chemically from mixed
cotton/wool fabrics.
The fleece is cut in one piece from the sheep. This is
then skirted to remove the soiled wool, and baled. It
is graded into long wool where the fibers can be up
to 15 in, but anything over 2.5 inches is suitable for
combing into worsteds. Fibers less than that form
short wool and are described as clothing or carding
wool.
At the mill the wool is scoured in a detergent to
remove grease (the yolk) and impurities. This is done
mechanically in the opening machine. Vegetable
matter can be removed chemically using Sulphuric
Acid (carbonising). Washing uses a solution of soap
and Sodium Carbonate. The wool is oiled before
carding or combing.
 Woollens: Use noils from the worsted combs,
mungo and shoddy and new short wool
 Worsteds
Combing: Oiled slivers are wound into laps, and placed
in the circular comber. The worsted yarn gathers
together to form a top. The shorter fibres or noils remain
behind and are removed with a knife.
Silk: The processes in Silk production are similar to
those of cotton but take account that reeled silk is a
continuous fibre. The terms used are different.
Opening bales. Assorting skeins: where silk is sorted by
colour, size and quality, scouring: where the silk is
washed in water of 40 degrees for 12 hours to remove
the natural gum, drying: either by steam heating or
centrifuge, softening: by rubbing to remove any
remaining hard spots.
Silk throwing (winding). The skeins are placed on a reel in
a frame with many others. The silk is wound onto spools
or bobbins.
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 Doubling and twisting. The silk is far
too fine to be woven, so now it is
doubled and twisted to make the
warp, known as organzine and the
weft, known as tram. In organzine
each single is given a few twists per
inch (tpi), and combine with several
other singles counter twisted hard at
10 to 14 tpi. In tram the two singles
are doubled with each other with a
light twist, 3 to 6 tpi. Sewing thread is
two tram threads, hard twisted, and
machine-twist is made of three hard-
twisted tram threads. Tram for the
crepe process is twisted at up to 80 tpi
to make it 'kick up'.
 Stretching. The thread is tested for
consistent size. Any uneven thickness
is stretched out. The resulting thread
is reeled into containing 500 yd to
2500 yd. The skeins are about 50 in in
loop length.
 Dyeing: the skeins are scoured again,
and discoloration removed with a
sulphur process. This weakens the
silk. The skeins are now tinted or
dyed. They are dried and rewound
onto bobbins, spools and skeins.
Looming, and the weaving process on
power looms is the same as with
cotton.
 Weaving. The organzine is now warped. This
is a similar process to in cotton. Firstly, thirty
threads or so are wound onto a warping reel,
and then using the warping reels, the threads
are beamed. A thick layer of paper is laid
between each layer on the beam to stop
entangling.
Processing of synthetic fibers
Discussion of types of synthetic fiber
Synthetic fibers are the result of extensive
development by Scientists to improve upon the
naturally occurring Animal and plant fibers. In
general, Synthetic Fibers are created by forcing, or
extruding, fiber forming materials through holes
(called spinnerets) into the air, thus forming a thread.
Before synthetic fibers were developed, Cellulose
Fibers were made from natural Cellulose, which
comes from plants.
The first artificial fiber, known as Art Silk from
1799 onwards, became known as Viscose around
1894, and finally Rayon in 1924. A similar product
known as Cellulose Acetate was discovered in 1865.
Rayon and acetate are both artificial fibers, but not
truly synthetic, being made from wood. Although
these artificial fibers were discovered in the mid-
nineteenth century, successful modern manufacture
began much later in the 1930s. Nylon, the first
synthetic fiber, made its debut in the US as a
replacement for Silk and was used for Parachutes
and other Military uses.
The techniques used to process these fibers in yarn
are essentially the same as with natural fibers,
modifications have to be made as these fibers are of
great length, and have no texture such as the scales
in cotton and wool that aid meshing.
TWILL PHOTOS, STRUCTURE,
CHARACTERISTICS
A twill weave can be identified by its
diagonal lines. This is a 2/2 twill, with two
warp threads crossing every two weft
threads.
Structure of a 2
⁄2 twill. The offset at each
row forms the diagonal pattern.
A twill with ribs in both sides, called
herringbone.
Diamond twill, with weaving edge (left), blue
warp, red weft.
Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of
diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a satin and
plain weave). This is done by passing the weft thread
over one or more warp threads and then under two or
more warp threads and so on, with a "step" or offset
between rows to create the characteristic diagonal
pattern. Because of this structure, twills generally
drape well.
Structure
In a twill weave, each weft or filling yarn floats
across the warp yarns in a progression of interlacings
to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line.
This diagonal line is also known as a wale. A float is
the portion of a yarn that crosses over two or more
yarns from the opposite direction.
A twill weave requires three or more harnesses,
depending on its complexity. A twill weave is the
second most basic weave that can be made on a
fairly simple loom.
Twill Characteristics
Twill fabrics technically have a front and a back
side, unlike plain weave, whose two sides are the
same. The front side of the twill is the technical face;
the back is called the technical back. The technical
face side of a twill weave fabric is the side with the
most pronounced wale; it is usually more durable,
more attractive, most often used as the fashion side
of the fabric, and the side visible during weaving. If
there are warp floats on the technical face (i.e., if the
warp crosses over two or more wefts), there will be
filling floats (the weft will cross over two or more
warps) on the technical back. If the twill wale goes
up to the right on one side, it will go up to the left on
the other side. Twill fabrics have no up and down as
they are woven.
Soil and stains are less noticeable on the uneven
surface of twills than on smooth surfaces, such as
plain weaves. Thus, twills are often used for sturdy
work clothing or durable upholstery. Denim, for
example, is a twill.
The fewer interlacings in twills allow the yarns to
move more freely, and thus they are softer, more
pliable, and drape better than plain-weave textiles.
Twills also recover from wrinkles better than plain-
weave fabrics do. When there are fewer interlacings,
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yarns can be packed closer together to produce high-
count fabrics. In twills and higher counts, the fabric
is more durable and air- and water-resistant.
There are even-sided twills and warp-faced twills.
Even-sided twills include foulard or surah,
herringbone, houndstooth, serge, sharkskin, and twill
flannel. Warp-faced twills include cavalry twill,
chino, covert, denim, drill, fancy twill, gabardine,
and lining twill. Examples of twill fabric are chino,
covert, denim, tweed, ganardine, drill and serge.
COTTON / BLENDED TWILL EXPORTS
FROM PAKISTAN
1. The offered Twill is normally bought by the
buyers for making garments (gents, ladies, kids).
2. Buyers either import Twill at their ends where
they make the required garments and then get the
garments dyed, some of the manufacturers first get
the Twill dyed and then start making the garments.
3. Some of the buyers ask Pakistan suppliers to ship
the Twills direct to garments manufacturing units
operating in other countries for making the garments
in Buyer's style and design and getting them dyed
and ship as a value added garments to the original
buyers of Twill from Pakistan.
4. PFD stands for 'Prepared for Dying', PFD quality
is Mill Dying.
5. PFGD stands 'Prepared for Garments Dying', this
quality is Garments Dying.
BASIC INFORMATION ON COTTON IN
RELATION WITH
COTTON/BLENDED TWILL EXPORTS FROM
PAKISTAN
 In international arena, American cotton is
considered as finest quality. The US offers
its cotton free of any contamination.
 Egyptian cotton comes 2nd
in quality.
 Pakistan’s number 3rd
which produces coarse
cotton, which contains contamination.
 Pakistan origin cotton used to produce up to
30-counts, however Pakistan is producing
cotton up to 80-counts, but in limited
quantity due to major cotton crop produceds
coarse counts 30 count and less.
 Cotton crop is cultivated mainly in Punjab
province and Sindh Province.
 India’s cotton starts from 100-counts.
 Cotton consumption in the world is around
5% of fine counts (80 and above), whereas
around 95% world’s consumption is of
coarse counts.
QUALITIES OF COTTON USED IN
PAKISTAN
1. Punjab Province (Pakistan),
2. Sindh Province (Pakistan), and
3. American / India origins.
CONSTRUCTION OF COTTON TWILL IN
PAKISTAN
Yarn counts
Example: 20CD x 18+70D /103 x 54 / 55-56
inches
Warp Weft Reed Pick Width
PFD stands for 'Prepared for Dying', and this quality
is known as Mill Dying.
PFGD stands 'Prepared for Garments Dying', and
this quality is known as Garments Dying.
PEACH OR MINCO SANDED: Velvet feel dyeing.
DYING PROCESS IN PAKISTAN
VAT: It is a double dying process. First Pat dying
then Chemical-Pat dying.
VARIETIES OF PAKISTAN ORIGIN TWILL NORMALLY
TRADED IN INTERNATIONAL MARKET
1. 100% Cotton
2. Poly Cotton (98% Cotton + 2% Spandex)
3. Poly Cotton Lycra (97% Cotton + 2%
Spandex + 1% Lycra)
PACKING MODE
1. Roll for processed material. 125 / 150 / 175
meters per roll.
2. Bale for Grey Cloth. 400 / 500 / 600 meters
per bale.
CONTAINER MAXIMUM STUFFING CAPACITY
(APPROXIMATE)
20-FT 40-FT 40-FT HC
Rolls 150 285 315
Bales 60 115 130
FINISHED PRODUCTS – FABRICS
MANUFACTURING UNITS MAKING GARMENTS
SUGGESTIONS / RECOMMENDATIONS FOR MARKETING
PAKISTAN ORIGIN TWILL
1. It is humbly suggested to those GRW
Agencies worldwide, which are seriously
interested to give a try to market and make
sales of Pakistan origin cotton/blended twill
in their territories, to read the article under
the following name, as published in the GRW
Newsletter, December 01, 2014 issue.
“SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING AN EFFECTIVE MARKET
PLAN”
2. In addition to the suggestions and
recommendations as discussed in the
aforesaid article, following tips could also be
beneficial for the agencies, which the GRW
agencies should implement before take an
action in the areas of marketing and sale.
First of all, agencies will have to ascertain whether
the respective territory has following basic
ingredients available required for importing twill
into that particular territory:
i) Manufacturing units are available in the
respective territory, which are operative and
making garments for ladies, gents and kids
from cotton and blended cloth;
ii) Exports of garments is also one of the regular
items exports from the respective territory;
iii) Garments manufacturers and traders
(importers) have been importing twill into the
respective territory from different origins.
3. It is suggested to those GRW Agencies,
which are new in the Twill business, they
must conduct a brief market survey limited to
check the garments, dresses for all ages and
genders made from cotton and blended
fabrics, being sold from retail outlets, which
are made locally (that country origin), so that
you could be sure that particular territory has
garments produced locally. During the brief
survey you would also know what sorts of
imported garments and cloths are available in
the market, and when you discuss with
around 10-shopkeepers (retailers) in different
areas (one city), you would also gether
information about the market share of locally
manufactured garments and clothing against
imported stuff plus price difference between
imported articles and locally produced
articles.
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015
Page 25 of 28
4. Get the total numbers of manufacturing units
being operated in each respective territory,
then divide them in 3-catagories (first those
units that hold combined 50% market share,
second which hold 30% market share and the
third which hold balance 20% share). Once
this exercise is done, then it is suggested to
initially attack those small to medium
manufacturing units which hold 20% market
share, because it would be much easier to
meet them and to obtain small orders (one
full container load) from them comparing to
those manufacturing units which have been
enjoying around 80% market share jointly.
Once you are penetrated in that particular
territory, you would be able to reach
gradually to those manufacturing units which
are enjoying 80% market share.
5. To save time and energy, try to get detailed
specifications of twill which manufacturing
units have been regularly importing, so that
Pakistan could concentrate in respect of
quality and prices, only on those material
which are more consumed in that particular
territory, in order to be competitive against
other origins already available in that
particular territory.
6. It would be very important to have following
information too:
a. List of importers importing twill or
fabric from different overseas
countries;
b. Names of exporting countries from
where twill or fabric is being
imported;
c. Annual import value in USA $ of
twill or fabric (meant for making
garments);
d. Which are number 1 and number 2
countries from where major import of
twill
is being made.
7. The offered sheets are normally bought by
buyers to make garments (gents, ladies, kids).
8. Buyers either import sheets at their ends
where they make the required garments and
then get them dyed, some of the
manufacturers first get the sheets dyed and
then start making the garments.
9. Some of the buyers ask Pakistan suppliers to
ship the sheet to garments manufacturing
units operating in other countries for making
the garments in Buyer's style and design and
getting them dyed and ship the value added
garments to the original buyers of sheets
from Pakistan.
DIFFERENT TYPES AND KINDS OF FINISHED
GARMENTS MADE FROM TWILL AND FABRIC
Ladies dresses
blouses, bias skirt, Bermuda, jackets, tops, night-
wears, under-garments, sports wear, T-shirts,
polo shirts, and many other items in solids, yarn
dyed and prints, Viscose/Linen, Ramie/cotton,
Viscose/georgette, chiffon, Linen/cotton, 100%
Ramie, etc.etc.
Men’s Wear
men’s shirts and shorts, night wears, under-
garments, sports-wear, T-shirts, polo shirts,
in Viscose/Linen, Ramie/cotton,
Viscose/georgette, chiffon, Linen/cotton, Ramie,
Other products
Bed linens. Pillow covers, Bedspreads.Table cloths,
Table mats, Napkins. Kitchen linens. Kitchen
Towel, Aprons, Gloves, Potholder. Cushion covers,
Throws, Coaster, Pot-warmer.
Bath-Mat, Shower curtains, Bath robe, Bath
towels.
Outfits for Girls and Women and for KIDS
GARMENTS FOR GENTS AND TEENAGERS
WORKING GLOVES
JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015
Page 27 of 28
OTHER ARTICLES INCLUDING BED SHEETS, TERRY TOWELS,
COMFORTERS, ETC.
Compiled by GRW Representation Pakistan
Dated: Tuesday – December 16, 2014
Place: Karachi (Pakistan)
Additional detailed information, photos and data on
Pakistan origin Cotton and its products are available with
GRW Main, which can be forwarded to the interested
GRW Agencies and Clients on specific request.
WE KNOW THERE IS QUITE A LOT OF INFORMATION
ON THE COTTON TWILL ON THIS JANUARY 2015
NEWSLETTER, BUT IT GIVES PHOTOS,
BACKGROUND AND MUCH MORE TO GIVE YOU ALL
THE TOOLS YOU NEED TO COPY THE DATA AND
GIVE INFORMATION TO YOUR POTENTIAL CLIENTS.
SOME CLOSING WORDS BY OUR FOUNDER, R.E
BRADLEY:
“
“I always thought of myself as a down to earth simple
man with strong opinions about my fellow man. I would
communicate by email with clients and even GRW
agencies, but I could tell when I sat in front of them
eyeball to eyeball if I could really trust them or not. I have
flown on private jets of world famous people, but I prided
myself on never thinking too highly of myself or of being
conceited on my stature in life. I could always hear the
voice of someone and by hearing their voice, I could
develop my own opinion if we would be friends or not. In
my days it was a handshake that sealed a deal, but
nowadays, contracts seals the deal but even contracts
do not guarantee honesty as it is the person behind the
contract that determines the honesty.”
In memory of R.E. Bradley, Founder of GRW 50 YEARS
AGO. He Passed away on January 04, 2014.
THIS CONCLUDES THE JANUARY 2015 GRW
NEWSLETTER.
WE CLOSE BY SAYING HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 TO
YOU AND WISHING YOU ALL THE SUCCESS IN THE
WORLD, ALONG WITH PEACE AND HAPPINESS.
DID YOU CONFIRM TO GRWUSA@AOL.COM THAT YOU
RECEIVED AND READ THIS NEWSLETTER.?

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Newslettergrwjan2015 2final

  • 1. January 01, 2015 Volume 2, Issue 1 GRW Newsletter “HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 FROM GRW” SKYPE: If you communicate With a GRW client on SKYPE then please add grwglobal to the conversation whether GRW is open or not or copy the whole skype conversation and email to GRW THANK YOU or your point of interest here. “If you fail to plan, you are planning to fail!” ― Benjamin Franklin Give us a call at: 01-619-399-7714 USA Dear Sir, This is to acknowledge the receipt of the December News Letter. I found it very educational and really broadening my horizon. It also has the prospect of offering business opportunities for agencies. I Will endeavour to take advantage of the openings. Regards GRW agency Ghana Dear Sir, I confirmed that I have received and read the December 2014 GRW AGENCY COMMENTS: WARNING TO FIVE GRW AGENCIES: By way of this article we are giving warning to five un-named GRW agencies that termination of your GRW agency is about to happen. Please take this seriously if you wish to continue as the GRW agency. Reason: You --- 1. Do not log in a minimum of once a week as per agency contract rules 2. Do not send in monthly reports by the fifth of every month and Newsletter. Thanks for having this newsletter that it will help to GRW agencies especially for me as a beginner regarding this work. MORE POWER. Philippines GRW agency Dear Mr. Ray Porter, Thank you as always for your continuous support and inspiration. Your monthly newsletters are always filled with new information, reminders, advises, encouragements and most importantly motivational highlights. I sincerely appreciate the opportunity to read your monthly newsletter as it picks me up with a heavy dose of energy with renewal and robust inspiration in the continuous efforts to promote GRW Maryland, USA. Thank you again for your time, effort and selflessness in sharing such valuable support with your monthly newspaper. May the Allah bless you and your family GRW AGENCY MARYLAND Thank you as always for your continuous support and inspiration. Your monthly newsletters are always filled with new information, reminders, advises, encouragements and most importantly motivational highlights. I sincerely appreciate the opportunity to read your monthly newsletter as it picks me up with a heavy dose of energy with renewal and robust inspiration in the continuous efforts to promote GRW Maryland, USA. Thank you again for your time, effort and selflessness in sharing such valuable support with your monthly newspaper. May the Allah bless you and your family with good health, peace and prosperity GRW AGENCY MARYLAND our Agency Affairs Manager repeatedly is forced to email you asking where is your monthly report. 3. Do not answer emails that we send you 4. Show us no evidence of your setting up a marketing plan for your country. 5. Rarely if at all ask us for product quotes from www.grwglobal.co m for your country. 6. Rarely if at all bring any direct producer product for our promotion to our clients Please be forewarned that you are on the verge of being terminated as a GRW agency and a new one assigned for your country. Thank you to all the other GRW agencies that do follow all the GRW agency contract rules. people interested in purchasing a product or in requesting your service.
  • 2. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETER 2015 Page 2 of 28 Every GRW agency in keeping with the continuity of the GRW name should always put “GRW Agency (Country Name)” after your name on emails to GRW clients Please read the suggested methods to market the 4N Houses, at end of this article. SAY GOODBYE TO BRICK AND CONCRETE 4NATURE HOUSES ARE EASY – FAST – SAFE – ECONOMICAL MODULAR DESIGN – A HOUSE CAN BE ERECTED WITHOUT HEAVY MACHINERY. There is extremely short building time. You can 4N HOUSING FEATURE: & ecologically friendly buildings at very affordable prices, for both rural and urban developing areas. The construction time using 4N technology is reduced by over 10 times compared to conventional building methods like brick and concrete. 4N HOUSING ARTICLE CONTINUED FROM ABOVE. --customized to suit your needs. 4N has complete solutions for institutions with our products being modular, innovative and sustainable. It can be an individual 4N HOUSING ARTICLE CONTINUED FROM ABOVE move in matter of days. 4N is Resistant to natural disasters, earthquakes, storms, fire, flood, insects and termites. They are very affordable. You save significantly on your building costs. 4Nature has indigenously innovated modular building concepts based on sandwiched technology, elements made of solid wood, high density Mg0 building boards, insulation wool & other components. The elements allow construction of safe, durable (continue below) and ecologically friendly buildings at very affordable prices, for both rural and urban developing areas. The construction time using 4N technology is reduced by over 10 times compared to conventional building methods like brick & concrete. 4Nature has indigenously innovated modular building concepts based on sandwiched technology elements made of solid wood, high density MgO building boards, The 4Nature has ready made offerings of building material & solutions for real estate developers, individual buyers of homes , healthcare industry , hotels & the resorts industry. 4Nature specializes in building solutions for hurricane , earthquakes, & other disaster hit areas. 4N structures are certified to withstand earthquake tremors up to 8.9 on the Richter scale & wind speeds up to 160 km per hour. SOLUTIONS: Modular element structures (continue below) Modular element structures . 4Nature has readymade offerings of building material & solutions for Real estate developers, planning to build a home or institutions like mining companies, hospitals, schools, offices, scouting around for structures to manage their requirements. Also for when hotels & tourism companies,investors & real estate developers need real- time solutions. Continue on page 7 real-time solutions 4Nature offers technical expertise t
  • 3. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 3 of 28 This is the first newsletter for 2015 from GRW. I am going to talk in firm language as it is imperative that we filter out the GRW agencies that do not follow the most simple GRW rules and protocols. But first I want to state we are so blessed to have so many sincere and dedicated and loyal and honest GRW agencies across the world. I personally, and all GRW management are so appreciative and proud to have you in our Union of GRW Agencies Worldwide. In the J.L. BRADLEY / C.E.O. to the Agency Quotation Form. Please request it from GRW. I want to remind everyone that the Producer Section of the form should be filled out properly and your name should not be put in that section as it is for the producer that you are getting the product from for resale to GRW clients. The producer information is kept in your file and not given to others. You will find special articles on COTTON TWILL & 4N HOUSING in J.L. Bradley Article continued from above SPECIAL PRODUCT: GREECE: HONEY with edible gold leaf 24 ct.in it. Email: grwglobal@aol.com or jbradley@grwglobal.com for more information last few weeks we have terminated several GRW agencies and assigned new ones in those countries. We gave those terminated agencies every opportunity to correct their violation of the GRW agency contract rules. They could not follow simply rules of sending in their monthly report by the fifth of every month and by logging in to the private agency site www.grwagency.com a minimum of once a week. How hard is it to do that? Well, those agencies terminated could or would not do it and now we have new agencies in those countries. Cement is needed for construction across the world. Rice is one of the top edible products in the world. GRW wants to see more requests from it’s GRW agencies for these products. You are missing an opportunity for making sales by not developing a marketing plan and finding buyers for these products. You can find “info” on the GRW public website . Agency Quotation Form:: We have some slight revision— continue below SIGNING YOUR NAME AS GRW AGENCY …. ON YOUR EMAILS DEALING WITH GRW BUSINESS GRW IN AND OUT PROGRAM If someone does not reply to emails, or send in monthly reports or log in then no monthly newsletters will go to them. The purpose of a newsletter is to provide specialized information to a targeted audience. Newsletters can be a great way to market your product or service, and also can create credibility and build your organization’s identity among peers, members, employees, or vendoSHOrs. First, determine the audience of the newsletter. This could be anyone who this January 2015 newsletter. It is our desire that you investigate the prospects of buyers in your country for these products. You want to make money then this is one way to do it, by following thru on these products for your buyers in your country. Language Converter: You are already aware that we have a language coverter to convert all of our web sites to just about any language in the world. You click the language on the home page and it changes the whole web site to your language. You can use this to have your clients review the web site in their own language. It could very well help you make sales in your country. We cannot over emphasize your following the GRW In and Out program A VERY HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 TO YOU. You can also research articles or find “filler” articles by accessing the World Wide Web. You can write about a variety of k or graphic.
  • 4. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETER 2015 Page 4 of 28 Cotton Twill Article by Tanveer Ansari “Do not let your fire go out, spark by irreplaceable spark, in the hopeless swamps of the not-quite, the not-yet, and the not-at-all. Do not let the hero in your soul perish in lonely frustration, for the life you deserved and have never been able to reach. The world you desire can be won. It exists. It is real. It is possible. It is YOURS” --Ayn Rand FACTS – PAKISTAN COTTON TEXTILES  On August 14, 1947 when Pakistan got its independence from the British Rulers and from the Indian Cotton Twill Feature  In international market, over 90% cotton of coarse count is consumed, while fine counts (80 counts and above) is used for particular  been the only industry that has generated huge employment for both skilled and unskilled labor.  The textile industry continues to be the second largest employment Cotton Twill continued from above Cotton Twill continued from above .” The GRW newsletters are for GRW agencies only and not for providing to your clients.You can copy certain data out of it if you wish and provide to your clients. Rulers, Pakistan got agricultural fields, soil of the fields was appropriate for the cotton crop from which over 90% coarse count cotton (from 5 to 30 counts) could be produced, whereas Indian soil was appropriate to produce fine count cotton (100 counts and above).   Continue Below  In international market, over 90% cotton of coarse count is consumed, while fine counts (80 counts and above) is used for particular cotton textiles, and the consumption of which is less than 10% of the world’s requirements.  The Textile industry is the largest manufacturing industy manufacturing industry in Pakistan. It has traditionally, after agriculture,been the only industry that has generated huge employment for both skilled and unskilled labor.  The textile industry continues to be cotton textiles, and the consumption of which is less than 10% of the world’s requirements.  The Textile industry is the largest manufacturing industy manufacturing industry in Pakistan. It has traditionally, after agriculture,   Continue Below  been the only industry that has generated huge employment for both skilled and unskilled labor. generating sector.  Pakistan is the 8th largest exporter of textile products in Asia.  This sector contributes 8.5% to the GDP.  The Textile sector provides employment to about 15 million people or roughly 30% of the 49 million workforce of the country.  Pakistan is the 4th largest producer of cotton in the world. Continue on Page 12  Pakistan is the third largest spinning capacity in Asia after China and
  • 5. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 5 of 28 I WANT TO SAY HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 TO ALL OF OUR GRW AGENCIES. I know it was stated in the December 2014 newsletter that certain things would be in this January 2015 newsletter. GREECE ARTICLE: Unfortunately we could not do the Greece article this month and it is our plan for it to be in the February 2015 issue. KIRIBATI SOLAR GENERATOR This will be in the February 2015 issue. RAY PORTER/ PRESIDENT I know all GRW agencies studied the product section of the December 2014 newsletter to see which items you could promote in your country. There were three GRW agencies that did not confirm to me as I asked for all to do, that they received and read the December 2014 newsletter. Those agencies have their files on our Agency Committee Manager’s desk for review. I have a strong feeling we will be seeing several more new GRW agencies Ray Porter continued from above: “Cherish your vision and your dream as they are the children of your soul, the blueprints of your ultimate achievements” .----Napoleon Hill, American author PLEASE READ THE BELOW ATTENTIVELY & CLOSELY JESSE CHAVEZ ARTICLE This too will be in February 2015 newsletter. In this January 2015 newsletter you have two product articles. One is on the 4N Housing and the other one is on Cotton Twill from Pakistan. We send these articles to you with the goal of your going out and developing a marketing plan and promoting them thru out the whole country to various potential buyers. If you read the articles and you do not promote them, then obviously you will not receive any orders for them. We know you will take an active approach and study the information on them, develop a marketing plan and contact the potential clients for the products. I notice a lot of new GRW agencies coming on board. Our CEO was serious about clearing out the GRW agencies that did not follow GRW contract protocols and assigning new motivated GRW agencies in those countries.. (continue below) Continue below c newsletter is to provide specialized information to a targeted audience. Newsletters can be a great way to market your product or service, and also can create credibility and build your organization’s identity among peers, members, employees, or vendors. First, determine the audience of the newsletter. This could be anyone who might benefit from the information it contains, for example, employees or people interested in purchasing a product or in requesting your service. You can compile a mailing list from business reply cards, customer information sheets, soon in those countries. We use to get so many that wanted us to convert things on our websites into Spanish, or Arabic, or French or some other language so they could give it to their clients. Now you can get it yourself off our websites in just about any language. Or you could give the website address to your clients to read it themselves. You should have no fear of giving your clients our web sites as you have the exclusive contract of GRW agency for your country subject to the protocols of the GRW agency contract. MENTORING PROGRAM: I am thankful that so many of you finished the four step Mentoring program with me and gave me weekly updates. There are a few who did not finish the program and they (continue to page 6) Ray Porter / President .
  • 6. PAGE 6 GRW KNOWS THAT EACH OF YOU WILL READ THE DATA ON THE 4N HOUSING AND THE COTTON TWILL. WE KNOW YOU WILL GIVE REAL CAREFUL THOUGHT TO HOW THESE CAN BE MARKETED IN YOUR COUNTRY. IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE WITH THESE PRODUCTS, THEN WE KNOW YOU WILL GO BACK TO THE MARKETING PLAN ARTICLE MR ANSARI WROTE IN ONE OF THE PREVIOUS GRW NEWSLETTERS, AND THAT YOU WILL DO THE RESEARCH NECESSARY TO FIND BUYERS FOR THESE PRODUCTS IN YOUR COUNTRY. YOU HAVE TO PLAN YOUR WORK AND WORK YOUR PLAN. THESE NEWSLETTERS ARE HERE TO HELP YOU WITH PRODUCTS TO PROMOTE IN YOUR COUNTRY AND WITH IDEAS TO UTILIZE TO MAKE SALES, AND GIVE YOU EVERY OPPORTUNITY FOR SUCCESS. If you are in the process of closing a sale of a product or service of GRW then it is very important you read all the data on the private GRW agency web site to know the GRW Way on closing procedures to follow. Things like the RAY PORTER / CONTIUED are no longer with us, and the ones that did not complete the Mentoring Program that are still with us are under watchful eye. GRW IN AND OUT PROGRAM: We say it so often, but What is the GRW Way? Ray Porter Article continued from above Ray Porter Continued: the Contact Us button on the private site. Please remember to put your country name on the Contact Us button, your Changes to Contact Us on private agency site www.grwagency.com PHONE: (619) 399-7714 USA E-MAIL: From Africa: jbradley@grwglobal.com Everywhere Else: grwglobal@aol.com President: grwusa@aol.com Monthly Reports: grwmonthlyreports@grwglobal. com Public : www.grwglobal.com Private: www.grwagency.com that he was making sure that only the GRW agencies that were honest, loyal, dedicated, motivated and that followed all GRW agency rules and protocols will remain in our Union of GRW Agencies Worldwide. Continue below In a few words, it should accurately represent the contents of the story and draw readers into the story. Develop the headline before you write the story. This way, the headline will help you keep the story focused. Examples of possible headlines include Product Wins Industry Award, New Product Can Save You Time, Membership Drive Exceeds Goals, and New Office Opens Near You. One benefit of using your newsletter as a promotional tool is that you can reuse content from other marketing materials, such as press releases and market studies. While your main goal of distributing a newsletter might be to sell your product or service, the key to a successful newsletter is making it useful to your readers. again there are some agencies that concentrate on only what they can sell out of their country and do nothing on promoting GRW product from www.grwglobal.com into their country. These GRW agencies will not be with us for long as our CEO made a promise to his father, (our founder) GRW name to be on the Sales Contract and our website address even if the product is being sold direct to the GRW buyer by the producer. There are other things involving sales or purchasing procedure on our private agency site and if you have not done so already, then we recommend you read them all so you know the proper GRW WAY. In 2015 you will start noticing changes on (continue below) While your main goal of distributing a newsletter might be to sell your product or service, the key to a successful newsletter is making it useful to your readers. A great way to add useful content to your newsletter is to develop and write your own articles, or to include a calendar of upcoming events or a special offer that promotes a new product. You can also research articles or find “filler” articles by accessing the World Wide Web. You can write about a variety of topics, but try to keep your articles short. email address and click “Send” so it will go in your file showing the weekly log in as per the agency contract rules. I want you all to know that we at GRW Main appreciate all of you GRW agencies greatly and we ask the Almighty to watch over and bless you .greatly. Think about your article and ask yourself if the picture supports or enhances the message you’re trying to convey. Avoid selecting images that appear to be out of context. Microsoft includes thousands of clip art images that you can choose and import into your newsletter. There are also several tools you can use to draw shapes and symbols. Happy 2015 to all of you
  • 7. Page 7 Continued from Page 2 4N Housing 4N modular structures are an easy,fast and economical option. 4Nature’s turnaround time for installation is almost magical ! ! ! AFFORDABLE & ECOLOGICAL HOUSING Example floor plans GRW AGENCIES CAN CONTACT GRW for prices, and designs, however 4N can work also according to clients requests/diagrams ADDITIONAL / TRANSPORT / LOGISTICS: 4Nature is absolutely a natural product and easy to be recycled, hence better environment. Very easy to transport 4Nature house 18sqm 10 in 40 foot HC ctr 4Nature house 37sqm 6 in 40 foot HC ctr 4Nature house 55sqm 5 in 40 foot HC ctr 4Nature house 73sqm 2 in 40 foot HC ctr 4Nature house 92 sqm 1 ½ in 40 foot HC ctr this is saving on the Co2 production of transports Please note: we can do also houses in 2 Floors. Using the boards of 4NATURE in your next project, you will realize advantages of 4NATURE. Also you will meet the demand of keeping environment as protected as possible, also meet the standards for recycling. PLEASE CONTINUE TO PAGE 8
  • 8. Page 8 Please continue to the next page
  • 9. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 9 of 28
  • 10. Page 10 PRODUCTION 4Nature production facility is strategically located in the port of Hamina, Finland, with direct access to trains trucks and ships. Our factory is located in the special manufacturing zone to facilitate easy exports & imports. 4N’s current production capacity is 50 000 sq meter per month scalable to 500 000 sq meter per month. LOGISTICS 4Nature logistics is best in the business. We work with a consortium of logistics service providers thus covering all the major & minor ports across the globe. We have developed an innovative packaging technique to transport & ship our homes in semi knocked condition, anywhere in the world. Given the fact that we are located on the harbour of Valko-Finland, our logistical operations are efficient & safe & in compliance with global safety standards. ASSEMBLY AT SITE. 4Nature homes are manufactured as elements in the factories & are assembled at the customer site. This is the technology that has revolutionized the speed of construction many folds compared to conventional brick & concrete. Assembly onsite also offers advantages such as: > A clean & safe construction environment, > High degree of precision in terms of engineering & design > On an average 10 times faster
  • 11. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 11 of 28 XXXXX XXXXX HOW TO MARKET 4N HOUSES IN YOUR COUNTRY: If you market the 4N houses properly and take this project seriously, we guarantee you a very good profit margin in a very short period of time. We are saying all this, because our factory has a capacity to produce from 50,000 square m scalable to 500,000 square m per month and installation is MAGICAL! You can promote the 4N houses to: Individuals who are planning to build their new home, Institutions like Mining companies, Hospitals, Clinics, Offices, Schools, Hotels, Holiday complex, Real Estate investors, Contactors, Army buildings etc Please note that we have ready solutions for individual homes, farm houses, schools and even floating houses, however we are flexible and produce our 4N houses as per client’s designs. You are one step away from starting something fruitful for your Company, so please do not hesitate to contact us for more details NOW IT IS UP TO YOU GRW AGENCIES TO SEE THE OPPORTUNITY IN MARKETING THE 4N HOUSING IN EVERY AREA OF YOUR COUNTRY. WE ARE COUNTING ON YOUR PROMOTING THIS PRODUCT AND ALSO THE COTTON TWILL PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN THIS NEWSLETTER TOO. THIS CONCLUDES THE 4N HOUSING ARTICLE
  • 12. Page 12 COTTON TWILL CONTINUED FROM PAGE 4  Pakistan is the third largest spinning capacity in Asia after China and India and contributes 5% to the global spinning capacity.  At present, there are 1,221 ginning units, 442 spinning units, 124 large spinning units and 425 small units which produce textile products.  The Textile Industry is dominated by Punjab Province.  3% of USA imports of clothing and other form of textiles is covered by Pakistan.  Textile exports in 1999 were $5.2 billion and rose to become $10.5 billion by 2007.  Textile exports managed to increase at a very decent growth of 16% in 2006. In the period July 2007 – June 2008, textile exports were US$10.62 billion. Textile manufacturing Industry is based on the conversion of three types of fiber into yarn then fabric, then textiles. These are then fabricated into cloths or other artifacts. Cotton remains the most important natural fiber, so is treated in depth. There are many variable processes available at the spinning and fabric-forming stages coupled with the complexities of the finishing and colouration processes to the production of a wide ranges of products. There remains a large industry that uses hand techniques to achieve the same results. Processing of cotton Cotton Manufacturin g Processes Bale Breaker Blowing Room Willowing Breaker Scutcher Batting Finishing Scutcher Lapping Carding Carding Room Silver Lap Combing Drawing Slubbing Intermediate Roving Fine Roving Mule Spinning - Ring Spinning Spinning Reeling Doubling Winding Bundling Bleaching Weaving shed Winding Beaming Cabling Warping Gassing
  • 13. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 13 of 28 Sizing/Slashing/ Dressing Spooling Weaving Cloth Yarn (Cheese)- - Bundle Sewing Thread Cotton is the world's most important natural fiber. In the year 2007, the global yield was 25 million tons from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50 countries. There are six stages as below: Cultivating and harvesting Cotton is grown anywhere with long, hot dry summers with plenty of sunshine and low humidity. Indian cotton, gossypium arboreum, is finer but the staple is only suitable for hand processing. American cotton, gossypium hirsutum, produces the longer staple needed for machine production. Planting is from September to mid November and the crop is harvested between March and June. The cotton balls are harvested by stripper harvesters and spindle pickers, that remove the entire ball from the plant. The cotton ball is the seed pod of the cotton plant, attached to each of the thousands of seeds are fibres about 2.5 cm long. Ginning The seed cotton goes in to a Cotton Ginning. The cotton gin separates seeds and removes the "trash" (dirt, stems and leaves) from the fibre. In a saw gin, circular saws grab the fibre and pull it through a grating that is too narrow for the seeds to pass. A roller gin is used with longer staple cotton. Here a leather roller captures the cotton. A knife blade, set close to the roller, detaches the seeds by drawing them through teeth in circular saws and revolving brushes which clean them away. The ginned cotton fibre, known as lint, is then compressed into bales which are about 1.5 m tall and weigh almost 220 kg. Only 33% of the crop is usable lint. Commercial cotton is priced by quality, and that broadly relates to the average length of the staple, and the variety of the plant. Longer staple cotton (2½ in to 1¼ in) is called Egyptian, medium staple (1¼ in to ¾ in) is called American upland and short staple (less than ¾ in) is called Indian. The cotton seed is pressed into a cooking oil. The husks and meal are processed into animal feed, and the stems into paper. Preparatory processes - preparation of yarn  Ginning, bale-making and transportation is done in the country of origin.  Opening and cleaning Platt Bros. Picker  Cotton mills get the cotton shipped to them in large, 500 pound bales. When the cotton comes out of a bale, it is all packed together and still contains vegetable matter. The bale is broken open using a machine with large spikes. It is called an Opener. In order to fluff up the cotton and remove the vegetable matter, the cotton is sent through a picker, or similar machines. The cotton is fed into a machine known as a picker, and gets beaten with a beater bar in order to loosen it up. It is fed through various rollers, which serve to remove the vegetable matter. The cotton, aided by fans, then collects on a screen and
  • 14. gets fed through more rollers till it emerges as a continuous soft fleecy sheet. Blending, Mixing & Scutching: Scutching refers to the process of cleaning cotton of its seeds and other impurities. The first scutching machine was invented in 1797, but did not come into further mainstream use until after 1808 or 1809, when it was introduced and used in Manchester, England. By 1816, it had become generally adopted. The scutching machine worked by passing the cotton through a pair of rollers, and then striking it with iron or steel bars called beater bars or beaters. The beaters, which turn very quickly, strike the cotton hard and knock the seeds out. This process is done over a series of parallel bars so as to allow the seeds to fall through. At the same time, air is blown across the bars, which carries the cotton into a cotton chamber.  Carding Carding machine A Combing machine Carding: the fibres are separated and then assembled into a loose strand (sliver or tow) at the conclusion of this stage. The cotton comes off of the picking machine in laps, and is then taken to carding machines. The carders line up the fibres nicely to make them easier to spin. The carding machine consists mainly of one big roller with smaller ones surrounding it. All of the rollers are covered in small teeth, and as the cotton progresses further on the teeth get finer (i.e. closer together). The cotton leaves the carding machine in the form of a sliver; a large rope of fibres. Note: In a wider sense Carding can refer to these four processes: Willowing- loosening the fibres; Lapping- removing the dust to create a flat sheet or lap of cotton; Carding- combing the tangled lap into a thick rope of 1/2 in in diameter, a sliver; and Drawing- where a drawing frame combines 4 slivers into one- repeated for increased quality.  Combing is optional, but is used to remove the shorter fibres, creating a stronger yarn.  Drawing the fibres are straightened Several slivers are combined. Each sliver will have thin and thick spots, and by combining several slivers together a more consistent size can be reached. Since combining several slivers produces a very thick rope of cotton fibres, directly after being combined the slivers are separated into rovings. These rovings (or slubbings) are then what are used in the spinning process. Generally speaking, for machine processing, a roving is about the width of a pencil.  Drawing frame: Draws the strand out  Slubbing Frame: adds twist, and winds onto bobbins
  • 15. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 15 of 28  Intermediate Frames: are used to repeat the slubbing process to produce a finer yarn.  Roving frames: reduces to a finer thread, gives more twist, makes more regular and even in thickness, and winds onto a smaller tube. Spinning - yarn manufacture Cotton – Spinning Machinery Most spinning today is done using Break or Open-end spinning, this is a technique where the staples are blown by air into a rotating drum, where they attach themselves to the tail of formed yarn that is continually being drawn out of the chamber. Other methods of break spinning use needles and electrostatic forces. This method has replace the older methods of ring and mule spinning. It is also is easily adapted for artificial fibres. The spinning machines takes the roving, thins it and twists it, creating yarn which it winds onto a bobbin. In mule spinning the roving is pulled off a bobbin and fed through some rollers, which are feeding at several different speeds. This thins the roving at a consistent rate. If the roving was not a consistent size, then this step could cause a break in the yarn, or could jam the machine. The yarn is twisted through the spinning of the bobbin as the carriage moves out, and is rolled onto a cylinder called a spindle, which then produces a cone- shaped bundle of fibres known as a "cop", as the carriage returns. Mule spinning produces a finer thread than the less skilled ring spinning.  The mule was an intermittent process, as the frame advanced and returned a distance of 5ft.It was the descendant of 1779 Crompton device. It produces a softer less twisted thread that was favoured for fines and for weft.  The ring was a descendant of the Arkwright water Frame 1769. It was a continuous process, the yarn was coarser, had a greater twist and was stronger so was suited to be warp. Ring spinning is slow due to the distance the thread must pass around the ring, other methods have been introduced. Sewing thread, was made of several threads twisted together, or doubled. Checking This is the process where each of the bobbins is rewound to give a tighter bobbin. Folding and twisting Plying is done by pulling yarn from two or more bobbins and twisting it together, in the opposite direction that in which it was spun. Depending on the weight desired, the cotton may or may not be plied, and the number of strands twisted together varies. Gassing Singe & Textiles and Gassing (textile process). Gassing is the process of passing yarn, as distinct from fabric very rapidly through a series of Bunsen gas flames in a gassing frame, in order to burn off the projecting fibers and make the thread round and smooth and also brighter. Only the better qualities of yarn are gassed, such as that used for voiles, poplins, venetians, gabardines, many Egyptian qualities, etc. There is a loss of weight in gassing, which varies' about 5 to 8 per cent., so that if a 2/60's yarn is required 2/56's would be used. The gassed yarn is darker in shade afterwards, but should not be scorched. Mule spinning Mule spinning
  • 16. Ring spinning Ring spinning Measurements Units of textile measurement.  Cotton Counts: The number of pieces of thread, 840 yards long needed to make up 1 lb weight. 10 count cotton means that 10x840 yd weighs 1 lb. This is coarser than 40 count cotton where 40x840 yards are needed. In the United Kingdom, Counts to 40s are coarse (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s are medium counts and above 80 is a fine count. In the United States ones to 20s are coarse counts.  Hank: A length of 7 leas or 840 yards  Thread: A length of 54 in (the circumference of a warp beam)  Bundle: Usually 10 lb  Lea: A length of 80 threads or 120 yards  Denier: this is an alternative method. It is defined as a number that is equivalent to the weight in grams of 9000m of a single yarn. 15 denier is finer than 30 denier.  Tex: is the weight in grams of 1 km of yarn. The worsted hank is only 560 yd Weaving-fabric manufacture The weaving process uses a loom. The length way threads are known as the wrap, and the cross way threads are known as the Weft. The warp which must be strong needs to be presented to loom on a warp beam. The weft passes across the loom in a shuttle that carries the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are automatically changed by the loom. Thus, the yarn needs to be wrapped onto a beam, and onto pirns before weaving can commence. Winding After being spun and plied, the cotton thread is taken to a warping room where the winding machine takes the required length of yarn and winds it onto wrappers bobbins Warping or beaming A Wrapper Racks of bobbins are set up to hold the thread while it is rolled onto the warp bar of a loom. Because the thread is fine, often three of these would be combined to get the desired thread count. Slasher sizing machine needed for strengthening the warp by adding starch to reduce breakage of the yarns.  Sizing  Drawing in, Looming The process of drawing each end of the warp separately through the dents of the reed and the eyes of the healds, in the order indicated by the draft.  Pirning (Processing the weft) Pirn winding frame was used to transfer the weft from cheeses of yarn onto the pirns that would fit into the shuttle  Weaving Power Looms At this point, the thread is woven. Depending on the era, one person could manage anywhere from 3 to 100 machines. In the mid nineteenth century, four was the standard number. A skilled weaver in 1925 would run 6 Lancashire Looms. As time progressed new
  • 17. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 17 of 28 mechanisms were added that stopped the loom any time something went wrong. The mechanisms checked for such things as a broken warp thread, broken weft thread, the shuttle going straight across, and if the shuttle was empty. Forty of these Northrop Looms or automatic looms could be operated by one skilled worker. A Draper loom in textile museum, Lowell, Massachusetts The three primary movements of a loom are shedding, picking, and beating-up.  Shedding: The operation of dividing the warp into two lines, so that the shuttle can pass between these lines. There are two general kinds of sheds- "open" and "closed." Open Shed-The warp threads are moved when the pattern requires it-from one line to the other. Closed Shed-The warp threads are all placed level in one line after each pick.  Picking: The operation of projecting the shuttle from side to side of the loom through the division in the warp threads. This is done by the over pick or under pick motions. The over pick is suitable for quick-running looms, whereas the under pick is best for heavy or slow looms.  Beating-up: The third primary movement of the loom when making cloth, and is the action of the reed as it drives each pick of weft to the fell of the cloth. The Lancashire Loom was the first semi- automatic loom. Jacquard looms and Dobby looms are looms that have sophisticated methods of shedding. They may be separate looms, or mechanisms added to a plain loom. A Northrop Loom was fully automatic and was mass produced between 1909 and the mid-1960s. Modern looms run faster and do not use a shuttle: there are air jet looms, water jet looms and rapier looms. Measurements  Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to the warp. The coarseness of the cloth can be expressed as the number of picks and ends per quarter inch square, or per inch square. Ends is always written first. For example: Heavy domestics are made from coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and weft, and about 48 ends and 52 picks. Associated job titles  Piecer Scavenger Weaver  Tackler Draw boy Pirner Issues When a hand loom was located in the home, children helped with the weaving process from an early age. Piecing needs dexterity, and a child can be as productive as an adult. When weaving moves from the home to the mill, children are often allowed to help their older sisters, and laws have to be made to prevent child labor becoming established. Knitting- fabric manufacture A circular knitting machine. Close-up on the needles.
  • 18. Knitting be machine is done in two different ways; warp and weft. Weft knitting (as seen in the pictures) is similar in method to hand knitting with stitches all connected to each other horizontally. Various weft machines can be configured to produce textiles from a single spool of yarn or multiple spools depending on the size of the machine cylinder (where the needles are bedded). In a warp knit there are many pieces of yarn and there are vertical chains, zigzagged together by crossing the yarn. Cotton Warp knits do not stretch as much as a weft knit, and it is run-resistant. A weft knit is not run-resistant, but stretches more. This is especially true if spools of spandex are processed from separate spool containers and interwoven through the cylinder with cotton yarn, giving the finished product more flexibility and making it less prone to having a 'baggy' appearance. The average t-shirt is a weft knit. Finishing- processing of textiles The woven cotton fabric in its loom-state, not only contains impurities, including warp size, but requires further treatment in order to develop its full textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive considerable added value by applying one or more finishing processes.  Desising: Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth may be steeped in a dilute acid and then rinsed, or enzymes may be used to break down the size.[27]  Scouring: Scouring, is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed fragments) from the fibres and any added soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids (saponification).  A kier is usually enclosed, so the solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the cellulose in the fibre. If the appropriate reagebts are used, scouring will also remove size from the fabric although desizing often precedes scouring and is considered to be a separate process known as fabric preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites to most of the other finishing processes. At this stage even the most naturally white cotton fibres are yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is required.  Bleaching Textile Bleaching; Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable, for example. However, for white bed sheetings and medical applications, the highest levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential.  Mercerising Mercerized Cotton: A further possibility is mercerizing during which the fabric is treated with caustic sodasolution to cause swelling of the fibres. This results in improved lustre, strength and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the tension is released or shrinkage will take place. Mercerizing can take place directly on grey cloth, or after bleaching. Many other chemical treatments may be applied to cotton fabrics to produce low flammability, crease resist and other special effects but four important non-chemical finishing treatments are:  Singeing
  • 19. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 19 of 28 Singe & Textiles: Singeing is designed to burn off the surface fibres from the fabric to produce smoothness. The fabric passes over brushes to raise the fibres, then passes over a plate heated by gas flames.  Raising: Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness and warmth, as in flannelette.  Calendering: Calendering is the third important mechanical process, in which the fabric is passed between heated rollers to generate smooth, polished or embossed effects depending on roller surface properties and relative speeds.  Shrinking (Sanforizing): Finally, mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced to shrink width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in which any residual tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering is minimal.  Dyeing: Finally, cotton is an absorbent fibre which responds readily to colouration processes. Dyeing, for instance, is commonly carried out with an anionic direct dye by completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in an aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed procedure. For improved fastness to washing, rubbing and light, other dyes such as vats and reactives are commonly used. These require more complex chemistry during processing and are thus more expensive to apply.  Textile Printing Printing, on the other hand, is the application of colour in the form of a paste or ink to the surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. It may be considered as localised dyeing. Printing designs onto already dyed fabric is also possible. Economic, environmental and political consequences of cotton manufacture The growth of cotton is divided into two segments i.e. organic and genetically modified. Cotton crop provides livelihood to millions of people but its production is becoming expensive because of high water consumption, use of expensive pesticides, insecticides and fertiliser. Genetically Modified products aim to increase disease resistance and reduce the water required. The organic sector was worth $583 million. Genetically Modified cotton, in 2007, occupied 43% of cotton growing areas. Cotton is farmed intensively and uses large amounts of fertilizer and 25% of the world's insecticides. Native Indian varieties of cotton were rainwater fed, but modern hybrids used for the mills need irrigation, which spreads pests. The 5% of cotton-bearing land in India uses 55% of all pesticides used in India. The consumption of energy in form of water and electricity is relatively high, especially in processes like washing, de-sizing, bleaching, rinsing, dyeing, printing, coating and finishing. Processing is time consuming. The major portion of water in textile industry is used for wet processing of textile (70 per cent). Approximately 25 per cent of energy in the total textile production like fibre production, spinning, twisting, weaving, knitting, clothing manufacturing etc. is used in dyeing. About 34 per cent of energy is consumed in spinning, 23 per cent in weaving, 38 per cent in chemical wet processing and five per cent in miscellaneous processes. Power dominates consumption pattern in spinning and weaving, while thermal energy is the major factor for chemical wet processing. Before mechanisation, cotton was harvested manually by farmers in India and by African slaves in America. In 2012 Uzbekistan was a major exporter of cotton and uses manual labour during the harvest. Human rights groups claim that health care professionals and children are forced to pick cotton.
  • 20. Processing of other vegetable fibres Flax: Flax is a Bast Fibre, which means it comes in bundles under the bark of the Linum usitatissimum plant. The plant flowers and is harvested.  Retting Breaking Scutching Hackling or Combing FLAX is now treated like cotton. Jute: Jute is a Bast Fibre which comes from the inner bark of the plants of the Corchorus genus. It is retted like flax, sundried and baled. When spinning a small amount of oil must be added to the fibre. It can be bleached and dyed. It was used for sacks and bags but is now used for the backing for carpets. Jute can be blended with other fibres to make composite fabrics and work continues in Bangladesh to refine the processes and extend the range of usage possible. In the 1970s, jute-cotton composite fabrics were known as jutton fabrics. Hemp Hemp is a Bast Fibre from the inner bark of Cannabis sativa. It is difficult to bleach, it is used for making cord and rope.  Retting  Separating  Pounding Other bast fibers: These bast fibers can also be used: Kenaf, Urena, Ramie, Nettle. Other leaf fibers. Sisal is the main leaf fiber used; others are: abaca and henequen. Processing of protein fibers Wool comes from domesticated sheep. It forms two products, woolens and worsteds. Sheep has two sorts of wool and it is the inner coat that is used. This can be mixed with wool that has been recovered from rags. Shoddy is the term for recovered wool that is not matted, while Mungo comes from Felted wool. Extract is recovered chemically from mixed cotton/wool fabrics. The fleece is cut in one piece from the sheep. This is then skirted to remove the soiled wool, and baled. It is graded into long wool where the fibers can be up to 15 in, but anything over 2.5 inches is suitable for combing into worsteds. Fibers less than that form short wool and are described as clothing or carding wool. At the mill the wool is scoured in a detergent to remove grease (the yolk) and impurities. This is done mechanically in the opening machine. Vegetable matter can be removed chemically using Sulphuric Acid (carbonising). Washing uses a solution of soap and Sodium Carbonate. The wool is oiled before carding or combing.  Woollens: Use noils from the worsted combs, mungo and shoddy and new short wool  Worsteds Combing: Oiled slivers are wound into laps, and placed in the circular comber. The worsted yarn gathers together to form a top. The shorter fibres or noils remain behind and are removed with a knife. Silk: The processes in Silk production are similar to those of cotton but take account that reeled silk is a continuous fibre. The terms used are different. Opening bales. Assorting skeins: where silk is sorted by colour, size and quality, scouring: where the silk is washed in water of 40 degrees for 12 hours to remove the natural gum, drying: either by steam heating or centrifuge, softening: by rubbing to remove any remaining hard spots. Silk throwing (winding). The skeins are placed on a reel in a frame with many others. The silk is wound onto spools or bobbins.
  • 21. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 21 of 28  Doubling and twisting. The silk is far too fine to be woven, so now it is doubled and twisted to make the warp, known as organzine and the weft, known as tram. In organzine each single is given a few twists per inch (tpi), and combine with several other singles counter twisted hard at 10 to 14 tpi. In tram the two singles are doubled with each other with a light twist, 3 to 6 tpi. Sewing thread is two tram threads, hard twisted, and machine-twist is made of three hard- twisted tram threads. Tram for the crepe process is twisted at up to 80 tpi to make it 'kick up'.  Stretching. The thread is tested for consistent size. Any uneven thickness is stretched out. The resulting thread is reeled into containing 500 yd to 2500 yd. The skeins are about 50 in in loop length.  Dyeing: the skeins are scoured again, and discoloration removed with a sulphur process. This weakens the silk. The skeins are now tinted or dyed. They are dried and rewound onto bobbins, spools and skeins. Looming, and the weaving process on power looms is the same as with cotton.  Weaving. The organzine is now warped. This is a similar process to in cotton. Firstly, thirty threads or so are wound onto a warping reel, and then using the warping reels, the threads are beamed. A thick layer of paper is laid between each layer on the beam to stop entangling. Processing of synthetic fibers Discussion of types of synthetic fiber Synthetic fibers are the result of extensive development by Scientists to improve upon the naturally occurring Animal and plant fibers. In general, Synthetic Fibers are created by forcing, or extruding, fiber forming materials through holes (called spinnerets) into the air, thus forming a thread. Before synthetic fibers were developed, Cellulose Fibers were made from natural Cellulose, which comes from plants. The first artificial fiber, known as Art Silk from 1799 onwards, became known as Viscose around 1894, and finally Rayon in 1924. A similar product known as Cellulose Acetate was discovered in 1865. Rayon and acetate are both artificial fibers, but not truly synthetic, being made from wood. Although these artificial fibers were discovered in the mid- nineteenth century, successful modern manufacture began much later in the 1930s. Nylon, the first synthetic fiber, made its debut in the US as a replacement for Silk and was used for Parachutes and other Military uses. The techniques used to process these fibers in yarn are essentially the same as with natural fibers, modifications have to be made as these fibers are of great length, and have no texture such as the scales in cotton and wool that aid meshing. TWILL PHOTOS, STRUCTURE, CHARACTERISTICS A twill weave can be identified by its diagonal lines. This is a 2/2 twill, with two
  • 22. warp threads crossing every two weft threads. Structure of a 2 ⁄2 twill. The offset at each row forms the diagonal pattern. A twill with ribs in both sides, called herringbone. Diamond twill, with weaving edge (left), blue warp, red weft. Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a satin and plain weave). This is done by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twills generally drape well. Structure In a twill weave, each weft or filling yarn floats across the warp yarns in a progression of interlacings to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line. This diagonal line is also known as a wale. A float is the portion of a yarn that crosses over two or more yarns from the opposite direction. A twill weave requires three or more harnesses, depending on its complexity. A twill weave is the second most basic weave that can be made on a fairly simple loom. Twill Characteristics Twill fabrics technically have a front and a back side, unlike plain weave, whose two sides are the same. The front side of the twill is the technical face; the back is called the technical back. The technical face side of a twill weave fabric is the side with the most pronounced wale; it is usually more durable, more attractive, most often used as the fashion side of the fabric, and the side visible during weaving. If there are warp floats on the technical face (i.e., if the warp crosses over two or more wefts), there will be filling floats (the weft will cross over two or more warps) on the technical back. If the twill wale goes up to the right on one side, it will go up to the left on the other side. Twill fabrics have no up and down as they are woven. Soil and stains are less noticeable on the uneven surface of twills than on smooth surfaces, such as plain weaves. Thus, twills are often used for sturdy work clothing or durable upholstery. Denim, for example, is a twill. The fewer interlacings in twills allow the yarns to move more freely, and thus they are softer, more pliable, and drape better than plain-weave textiles. Twills also recover from wrinkles better than plain- weave fabrics do. When there are fewer interlacings,
  • 23. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 23 of 28 yarns can be packed closer together to produce high- count fabrics. In twills and higher counts, the fabric is more durable and air- and water-resistant. There are even-sided twills and warp-faced twills. Even-sided twills include foulard or surah, herringbone, houndstooth, serge, sharkskin, and twill flannel. Warp-faced twills include cavalry twill, chino, covert, denim, drill, fancy twill, gabardine, and lining twill. Examples of twill fabric are chino, covert, denim, tweed, ganardine, drill and serge. COTTON / BLENDED TWILL EXPORTS FROM PAKISTAN 1. The offered Twill is normally bought by the buyers for making garments (gents, ladies, kids). 2. Buyers either import Twill at their ends where they make the required garments and then get the garments dyed, some of the manufacturers first get the Twill dyed and then start making the garments. 3. Some of the buyers ask Pakistan suppliers to ship the Twills direct to garments manufacturing units operating in other countries for making the garments in Buyer's style and design and getting them dyed and ship as a value added garments to the original buyers of Twill from Pakistan. 4. PFD stands for 'Prepared for Dying', PFD quality is Mill Dying. 5. PFGD stands 'Prepared for Garments Dying', this quality is Garments Dying. BASIC INFORMATION ON COTTON IN RELATION WITH COTTON/BLENDED TWILL EXPORTS FROM PAKISTAN  In international arena, American cotton is considered as finest quality. The US offers its cotton free of any contamination.  Egyptian cotton comes 2nd in quality.  Pakistan’s number 3rd which produces coarse cotton, which contains contamination.  Pakistan origin cotton used to produce up to 30-counts, however Pakistan is producing cotton up to 80-counts, but in limited quantity due to major cotton crop produceds coarse counts 30 count and less.  Cotton crop is cultivated mainly in Punjab province and Sindh Province.  India’s cotton starts from 100-counts.  Cotton consumption in the world is around 5% of fine counts (80 and above), whereas around 95% world’s consumption is of coarse counts. QUALITIES OF COTTON USED IN PAKISTAN 1. Punjab Province (Pakistan), 2. Sindh Province (Pakistan), and 3. American / India origins. CONSTRUCTION OF COTTON TWILL IN PAKISTAN Yarn counts Example: 20CD x 18+70D /103 x 54 / 55-56 inches Warp Weft Reed Pick Width PFD stands for 'Prepared for Dying', and this quality is known as Mill Dying. PFGD stands 'Prepared for Garments Dying', and this quality is known as Garments Dying. PEACH OR MINCO SANDED: Velvet feel dyeing. DYING PROCESS IN PAKISTAN VAT: It is a double dying process. First Pat dying then Chemical-Pat dying. VARIETIES OF PAKISTAN ORIGIN TWILL NORMALLY TRADED IN INTERNATIONAL MARKET 1. 100% Cotton 2. Poly Cotton (98% Cotton + 2% Spandex)
  • 24. 3. Poly Cotton Lycra (97% Cotton + 2% Spandex + 1% Lycra) PACKING MODE 1. Roll for processed material. 125 / 150 / 175 meters per roll. 2. Bale for Grey Cloth. 400 / 500 / 600 meters per bale. CONTAINER MAXIMUM STUFFING CAPACITY (APPROXIMATE) 20-FT 40-FT 40-FT HC Rolls 150 285 315 Bales 60 115 130 FINISHED PRODUCTS – FABRICS MANUFACTURING UNITS MAKING GARMENTS SUGGESTIONS / RECOMMENDATIONS FOR MARKETING PAKISTAN ORIGIN TWILL 1. It is humbly suggested to those GRW Agencies worldwide, which are seriously interested to give a try to market and make sales of Pakistan origin cotton/blended twill in their territories, to read the article under the following name, as published in the GRW Newsletter, December 01, 2014 issue. “SUGGESTIONS FOR MAKING AN EFFECTIVE MARKET PLAN” 2. In addition to the suggestions and recommendations as discussed in the aforesaid article, following tips could also be beneficial for the agencies, which the GRW agencies should implement before take an action in the areas of marketing and sale. First of all, agencies will have to ascertain whether the respective territory has following basic ingredients available required for importing twill into that particular territory: i) Manufacturing units are available in the respective territory, which are operative and making garments for ladies, gents and kids from cotton and blended cloth; ii) Exports of garments is also one of the regular items exports from the respective territory; iii) Garments manufacturers and traders (importers) have been importing twill into the respective territory from different origins. 3. It is suggested to those GRW Agencies, which are new in the Twill business, they must conduct a brief market survey limited to check the garments, dresses for all ages and genders made from cotton and blended fabrics, being sold from retail outlets, which are made locally (that country origin), so that you could be sure that particular territory has garments produced locally. During the brief survey you would also know what sorts of imported garments and cloths are available in the market, and when you discuss with around 10-shopkeepers (retailers) in different areas (one city), you would also gether information about the market share of locally manufactured garments and clothing against imported stuff plus price difference between imported articles and locally produced articles.
  • 25. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 25 of 28 4. Get the total numbers of manufacturing units being operated in each respective territory, then divide them in 3-catagories (first those units that hold combined 50% market share, second which hold 30% market share and the third which hold balance 20% share). Once this exercise is done, then it is suggested to initially attack those small to medium manufacturing units which hold 20% market share, because it would be much easier to meet them and to obtain small orders (one full container load) from them comparing to those manufacturing units which have been enjoying around 80% market share jointly. Once you are penetrated in that particular territory, you would be able to reach gradually to those manufacturing units which are enjoying 80% market share. 5. To save time and energy, try to get detailed specifications of twill which manufacturing units have been regularly importing, so that Pakistan could concentrate in respect of quality and prices, only on those material which are more consumed in that particular territory, in order to be competitive against other origins already available in that particular territory. 6. It would be very important to have following information too: a. List of importers importing twill or fabric from different overseas countries; b. Names of exporting countries from where twill or fabric is being imported; c. Annual import value in USA $ of twill or fabric (meant for making garments); d. Which are number 1 and number 2 countries from where major import of twill is being made. 7. The offered sheets are normally bought by buyers to make garments (gents, ladies, kids). 8. Buyers either import sheets at their ends where they make the required garments and then get them dyed, some of the manufacturers first get the sheets dyed and then start making the garments. 9. Some of the buyers ask Pakistan suppliers to ship the sheet to garments manufacturing units operating in other countries for making the garments in Buyer's style and design and getting them dyed and ship the value added garments to the original buyers of sheets from Pakistan. DIFFERENT TYPES AND KINDS OF FINISHED GARMENTS MADE FROM TWILL AND FABRIC Ladies dresses blouses, bias skirt, Bermuda, jackets, tops, night- wears, under-garments, sports wear, T-shirts, polo shirts, and many other items in solids, yarn dyed and prints, Viscose/Linen, Ramie/cotton, Viscose/georgette, chiffon, Linen/cotton, 100% Ramie, etc.etc. Men’s Wear men’s shirts and shorts, night wears, under- garments, sports-wear, T-shirts, polo shirts, in Viscose/Linen, Ramie/cotton, Viscose/georgette, chiffon, Linen/cotton, Ramie, Other products Bed linens. Pillow covers, Bedspreads.Table cloths, Table mats, Napkins. Kitchen linens. Kitchen Towel, Aprons, Gloves, Potholder. Cushion covers, Throws, Coaster, Pot-warmer. Bath-Mat, Shower curtains, Bath robe, Bath towels. Outfits for Girls and Women and for KIDS
  • 26. GARMENTS FOR GENTS AND TEENAGERS WORKING GLOVES
  • 27. JANUARY GRW NEWSLETTER 2015 Page 27 of 28 OTHER ARTICLES INCLUDING BED SHEETS, TERRY TOWELS, COMFORTERS, ETC. Compiled by GRW Representation Pakistan Dated: Tuesday – December 16, 2014 Place: Karachi (Pakistan)
  • 28. Additional detailed information, photos and data on Pakistan origin Cotton and its products are available with GRW Main, which can be forwarded to the interested GRW Agencies and Clients on specific request. WE KNOW THERE IS QUITE A LOT OF INFORMATION ON THE COTTON TWILL ON THIS JANUARY 2015 NEWSLETTER, BUT IT GIVES PHOTOS, BACKGROUND AND MUCH MORE TO GIVE YOU ALL THE TOOLS YOU NEED TO COPY THE DATA AND GIVE INFORMATION TO YOUR POTENTIAL CLIENTS. SOME CLOSING WORDS BY OUR FOUNDER, R.E BRADLEY: “ “I always thought of myself as a down to earth simple man with strong opinions about my fellow man. I would communicate by email with clients and even GRW agencies, but I could tell when I sat in front of them eyeball to eyeball if I could really trust them or not. I have flown on private jets of world famous people, but I prided myself on never thinking too highly of myself or of being conceited on my stature in life. I could always hear the voice of someone and by hearing their voice, I could develop my own opinion if we would be friends or not. In my days it was a handshake that sealed a deal, but nowadays, contracts seals the deal but even contracts do not guarantee honesty as it is the person behind the contract that determines the honesty.” In memory of R.E. Bradley, Founder of GRW 50 YEARS AGO. He Passed away on January 04, 2014. THIS CONCLUDES THE JANUARY 2015 GRW NEWSLETTER. WE CLOSE BY SAYING HAPPY NEW YEAR 2015 TO YOU AND WISHING YOU ALL THE SUCCESS IN THE WORLD, ALONG WITH PEACE AND HAPPINESS. DID YOU CONFIRM TO GRWUSA@AOL.COM THAT YOU RECEIVED AND READ THIS NEWSLETTER.?