Quality Control of High-Quality Fabrics Production

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UNIVERSITÀ CARLO CATTANEO – LIUC
University first Level Master Diploma course in
Management and Textile Engineering
Product and Process Control of High-Quality fabrics
Supervisor: Prof. Enrico Prina
Thesis written by:
Kazi Md Rejaul Karim
Registration No: 0021022
Academic Year 2015-2016

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Title Page No
Acknowledgements 05
List of Figures 06
Company Profile 08
Chapter
1 THESIS OBJECTIVE 11
1.1 Introduction 11
1.2 Assertion of the Complications 12
2 LITERATURE REVIEW 13
2.1 Concepts of Quality 13
2.2 Concepts of Quality Management 14
2.3 Quality Factors 15
2.4 Quality Costs 16
2.5 Quality System of Organization 17
2.6 Raw Material 19
2.7 Raw Material Consumption 23
3 PROCESS CONTROL 24
3.1. Definition 24
3.2 Warping 25
3.3 Sizing 28
3.4 Drawing-in 28
3.5 Piecing-up 29
3.6 Weaving 30
3.7 Grey Fabric Inspection 36
3.8 Finishing 39
3.8.1 Wet finishing 41
3.8.1.1 Singeing 41
3.8.1.2 Scouring 42
3.8.1.3 Carbonizing 47

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Title Page No
Chapter
3.8.1.4 Bagging 48
3.8.1.5 Milling 48
3.8.1.6 Scutching 51
3.8.1.7 Crabbing 51
3.8.1.8 Dyeing 52
3.8.2 Dry Finishing 58
3.8.2.1 Stenter Drying 58
3.8.2.2 Raising 59
3.8.2.3 Cropping or Shearing 65
3.8.2.4 Decatizing 66
3.8.2.5 Steaming 71
3.8.2.6 Special Finish Treatments 74
3.9 Final Fabric Control 77
4 PRODUCT CONTROL 79
4.1 Yarn Quality Control and Testing 79
4.2 Fabric Quality Control and Testing 82
5 Discussions and Recommendations 84
Bibliography and Sitography 85

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Acknowledgements
First of all, the accomplishments of this thesis benefits of the help and direction from my
dear supervisor- Prof. Enrico Prina is always happy and willing to help me solve the
misperceptions and direct me approach to the final result of the thesis. And also Prof. Prina is an
easy-going and open-minded person, without his encouragement I would not finish this final work
in my master study.
Furthermore, I would like to show my gratitude to the Fratelli Piacenza S.p.A. (Piacenza
Cashmere) especially to Mr. Carlo Piacenza for giving me the opportunity to work there as an
Intern. Also to Mr. Ettore and Mr. Vasiliy Piacenza for their warm welcome and for sharing
their knowledge and experience about textile business with me. I must make special mention of
Mr. James Pella (Director of Production) without his help I would not complete my thesis and
also the solution of so many complications regarding textile production. Lastly special thanks to
my industrial tutor Mr. Enrico Gatti (Quality Control Manager) for his entire support throughout
my industrial training and the contribution towards this thesis.

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List of Figures
Figure No Title Page No
3.1 Warping Machine (Karl Mayer MM64) 26
3.2 Warping Machine (Suzuki Nas-140) 27
3.3 Automatic Drawing Machine (Staubli S-80) 29
3.4 Knotting Machine (Staubli Topmatic) 30
3.5 Knotting Machine (Titan) 30
3.6 Weaving Machine (Dornier PTS) 31
3.7 Weaving Machine (Picanol GamMax) 32
3.8 Weaving Machine (Picanol OptimMax) 32
3.9 Weaving Machine (Leonardo Vamatex) 33
3.10 Gas Singeing Machine 42
3.11 Open Width batch Scouring Machine (EK-91) 43
3.12 Discontinuous rope scouring machine (Rotor Mat) 44
3.13 Open width continuous scouring machine (Lavanova)46
3.14 Rotor dry 47
3.15 Carbonizing Machine 48
3.16 Bagging Machine (ATH 290) 48
3.17 Rotary Milling Machine (Flaminio Regis) 49
3.18 Combined Scouring and Milling Machine (Zonco) 50
3.19 Combined Scouring and Milling Machine (Folatex) 50
3.20 Rope Opener Machine (Corino) 51
3.21 Crabbing Machine (Sperotto Rimar) 52
3.22 Sample Dyeing Machine (Ahiba Nuance ECO) 54
3.23 Sample Dyeing Machine (Ahiba IR) 54
3.24 Ugolini Lab Dyeing Machine 54
3.25 Salce Auto Balance Machine 54
3.26 Salce Auto Dispenser Machine 54
3.27 Hank Dyeing Machine (Maibo – 2 arm) 55
3.28 Hank Dyeing Machine (Maibo – 8 arm) 55
3.29 Overflow dyeing Machine (Medusa) 56

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List of Figures
Figure No Title Page No
3.30 Horizontal Rope dyeing machine 57
3.31 Stenter Drying machine 58
3.32 Teasel Flower 61
3.33 Teasel Flower on the Drum Rollers 61
3.34 Vegetable Teasel machine 61
3.35 Wet brushing Machine 62
3.36 Metallic Wires on Roller 64
3.37 Metallic Wire Raising Machine 64
3.38 Shearing Machine 66
3.39 Atmospheric Decatizing Machine 68
3.40 Continuous Decatizing Machine 69
3.41 Pressure Decatizing Machine (KD) 69
3.42 Autoclave (KD) 70
3.43 Fabric Path Diagram (KD) 70
3.44 Tensionless Steaming Machine 72
3.45 Steaming Machine 73
3.46 F-three Scarves 74
3.47 Super N-Installations 74

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Company Profile
History
The Lanificio Fratelli Piacenza S.P.A is a leading name in the production of high-
quality fabrics and clothing. They are used to facing new challenges and have always been out
there in front, pioneering ingenious solutions in a host of fields in near about 300 years of history.
The Piacenza family has a mission: to keep its natural inclination towards insight concentrated on
producing fabrics with state-of-the-art appearances and performance, while regarding the
craftsmanship that is quite a trademark of the wool mill to this day.
A shop opened in Turin way back in 1799; journeys to England to acquire the world’s
most unconventional machinery and buy the finest wool on the nineteenth century market in
London plus the introduction of the first mechanical mile jenny and jacquard looms in the Pollone
mills; Italy’s very first patterned fabrics, introduced in 1839; one of the Italy’s very first
hydroelectric power plants, built in1898; the groundwork of the Biella Industrial league in 1901
and wool mill school in 1911; these are just a few of the significant milestones that mark
Piacenza's pioneering spirit.

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Values
Excellence: from raw materials to the finished item ready to attire, introducing a
scrupulous collection of super fine, limited edition wools and the noblest of exclusive fibers.
Applying their know-how in all the phases of the production process brings out the very best of
their natural properties, with uncommon blends and superior finishes. At Piacenza, the goal is
always excellence.
Tradition and technology live together and complement one another at Piacenza. The
company’s symbol is the thistle flower that is still used in the mill to this day to card the wool; it
is the sign of the Piacenza family’s tradition of passing on its knowledge from one generation to
another. But custom is not enough on its own; it also takes exploration into innovative
technologies to produce quality fabric in step with modern luxury market demand.
Emotions: an article of clothing should carry emotions. It is Piacenza’s subsequent layer
of skin: the right balance between quality, healthiness, and comfort that natural fibers are known
for. Soft, warm and embracing, articles from Piacenza cashmere bear a desire for exquisiteness
and guarantee a sensitivity of wellness that continues and continues.
Quality
Quality is an obsession, a target to be reached without any negotiations: for Piacenza,
excellence takes absolute significance. In raw materials, in processing, in fabrics and in the
clothing they make, quality is always the common denominator. Quality also permeates everyday
life in the company, combined with a sense of beauty that is also carried by the facility in Pollone,
set among the nearby greenery at the bottom of the Burcina Park named after Felice Piacenza,
between walls protected with rambling plants, green lawn dotted with colorful flowerbeds and
terraced gardens unheeded by the office spaces.

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Production Capacity
The yearly production capacity of Fratelli Piacenza is approximately 700,000 meters of
different types and designs of fabric. Piacenza produces fabric for two seasons’ summer and
winter yearly and with different types of fancy finishing which we will discuss in the process
control chapter. They mainly produce three types of fabric:
1) Men: Suiting, Jacket with fur/without fur, Double face, Fabric with membrane etc.
2) Women: Coat, Double face, Piled fabric, Jacket etc.
3) Scarf: Both for men and women. Various types of weave design and colors.
Market
Lanificio Piacenza’s main market is in Europe and also in Asia as they always produce
luxurious fabrics for topmost brands in the textile world. And the brands are Prada, Gucci,
Brioni, D&G, Dior, Celine, Chanel, Luis Vuitton, Burberry, Zegna, Agnona, Canali, Giorgio
Armani etc.

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Chapter: 1
Thesis Objective
1.1.Introduction
Earlier centuries women used to provide clothing for themselves and their families in
efficient and economical ways. Then, later on, this making of cloth turned into an essential and
profitable profession for business society. By the early twentieth century, the real outbreak
happened in the textile industry. Uses of textile in different sectors and the demand for luxurious
clothing ensured the success of the textile business. But in the modern era, to be well established
in the competitive market supplier needs to provide best quality product to the client. Quality is
not just about inspecting the product after manufacturing as per client’s specification. To produce
a good quality product needs to maintain all the proper aspects of each process of manufacturing
from raw materials to packaging. During manufacturing of the textile product, in every process,
different types of fact need to be controlled. Along with controlling the process, to achieve a better
product also needs to maintain control of the product by doing different physical measurements
on the product.
In this thesis, the main focus will be on high-quality fabrics manufactured by natural
fibers i.e. merino wool, cashmere, vicuna, Guanaco, qiviut, yangir, mohair, cashgora, yak, alpaca,
llama, silk, cotton and little uses of polyamide and spandex. The fabric manufactured from these
fibers undergoes through the different manufacturing process and product control which will be
assessed briefly in this thesis. An overview on the definition of quality, quality system, concepts
of quality management and different factors. And also a close outline on physical and chemical
testing method of finished fabric according to the customer specification.

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1.2.Assertion of the Complications
This thesis based on high-quality fabric manufacturing method in Lanificio Fratelli
Piacenza S.P.A. and their way of quality control in each and every process according to the
production of various types of article. For some processes like weaving or dyeing, it is promising
to conclude the evaluation of quality by doing different kinds of product control test. But for
milling, raising, cropping or decatizing quite difficult to define the quality level. Not only in
product control but also in most of the cases depending on the article specification process need
to be altered. So, as the regular process sequence of wool or cashmere fabric, manufacturing or
finishing is not always been followed. Because of so many different clients, for Piacenza it is
difficult to follow any international standard in quality control and fabric inspection. Different
client has different quality standard. If they follow individual client’s standard it will hamper their
daily production and it will be really difficult for operator’s to remember different standard for
each and every client. For product control, the most important criteria is a big and resourceful
quality control laboratory. But Piacenza has a small laboratory equipped with limited instruments
by which they can control only few characteristics of product. Although whatever resource they
have, with that they are providing one of the top quality fabric in the market. From next chapter,
we will discuss about quality and quality management system and later on will concentrate on
Piacenza’s process and product control of high quality fabrics.

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Chapter: 2
LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1.Concepts of Quality
Quality means client requirements to be fulfilled. Unable to retain a satisfactory quality
standard can, therefore, be unsuccessful. Then continue an adequate standard of quality also costs
effort. ISO standard 9000 defines quality as that “ensemble of properties and characteristics of
a product or a service which confer on it the capacity to satisfy expressed or implicit
requirements”.
From a practical point of view, it is important to make a distinction between two concepts
of quality which are very closely linked to two distinct company functions:
a) Theoretical quality, which characterizes a product specification during product design
phase to satisfy the customer needs. Evidently, the research and development department of a
company is responsible for this aspect of quality and will have to follow during manufacturing,
subject to an adequate degree of control.
b) Technical quality, specification provided by the design department need to be
followed by manufacturing team to produce a quality product as customer needs.
And to achieve these aims, it is necessary to create a quality system, i.e. according to ISO 9000
“an organizational system, responsibilities, procedures, processes, and resources which
make possible the management of the problems connected with quality”. The innovative
methodology to the difficulty of achieving good quality does not only concern the product but
also involves the organization which produces it. The organization needs to be certified by
national and international certification body. With particular reference to the textile sector, it is
necessary to define the following fundamental concepts.

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Standardization of terminology and test methods, various national standardization
bodies (UNI, BS, DIN, AFNOR, ASTM etc.) as well as the international ones (ISO, EEC, CEN).
This is a continuous process of standardization.
Standardization in its contracted sense, a standard must meet certain requirements i.e.
writing of technical standards, understood as a product specification. EEC directive on quality
certification also makes a distinction between technical rules (issued by member states) whose
observation is obligatory for safeguarding the safety and health for its citizen, and technical norms
(worked out by standardization bodies).
Accredited laboratories are responsible for carried out the test on products to ensure the
quality. And there are many specifically constituted organization to check that conditions foreseen
by ISO norms are met.
Certification of the quality system and products, this is carried out by certification
bodies (public or private) which, in their turn, are authorized to carry out this function by an
appropriate organization (in Italy, a UNI-CEI committee, known as SINCERT).
Also, there are some other organizations focused on environmental sustainability i.e.
BSR, CIPR, EMAS, GOTS etc. Fratelli Piacenza S.P.A is certified by GOTS (Global Organic
Textile Standard), a textile product that contains a minimum of 70% organic fibers can become
certified. All substances such as dyestuffs and auxiliaries used need to meet certain environmental
and toxicological criteria. And an efficient waste water treatment plant is obligatory for any wet-
processing unit involved and all things must comply with minimum social criteria.
2.2.Concepts of Quality Management
Quality Management, the performance of supervising all actions and responsibilities
needed to uphold a preferred level of quality. This consist of forming and applying quality
planning and assurance, as well as quality control and quality improvement. To put things in as
simple a manner as possible, we can focus on three historical stages:

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Statistical Quality Control (SQC), was developed in the 1930’s by a pioneer Shewart not
only to apply to the product but also to the process. After 2nd
world war, SQC became widespread
all over the world.
Total Quality Control (TQC), was a classic work in the 1960’s by Juran and Feigenbaum
where quality was transformed from a problem of product inspection and control of the
technological process to become a factor of company organization.
Company-wide Quality Control (CWQC), was introduced at the end of the 1970’s as a
completely new concept from Japanese industry because of their huge success. The attention
shifted from total quality control concept of physical variables to human variables, which sets out
to involve all the company employees and make them co-responsible for quality. This new
concept gives absolute priority to customer satisfactions.
2.3.Quality Factors
As mentioned above the technical quality of the product, which can be divided into five (5’M)
categories.
Materials include not only raw materials but also auxiliary products. To produce better
quality product needs to purchase the best quality raw material along with auxiliary materials
which will increase the product quality i.e. to dye a fiber also need dyestuff and the dyestuff will
penetrate into the fiber immediately and uniformly if proper auxiliaries been used. But need to
remember the quality of the fibers used must be neither higher nor lower than necessary because
in both cases there would be an increase in cost.
Manufacturing Method depends on the product to be manufactured i.e. aesthetic or
technical product. Aesthetic products are the influence of fashion i.e. wool fabric. Manufacturing
methods vary article to article because of the different aesthetic appearance, where in case of
technical product by maintaining optimum conditions (machine settings, dosage of ingredients

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etc.) If possible to manufacture then this method can be used as a model process for the particular
technical product.
Machines, which must be based not only on the standard characteristics but also on the
reliability of the machines in the course of time. In the case of auto control of quality, to create an
“expert system”, it is very important that the machine is predisposed to receive commands from
a computer and is equipped with electronic or electro-mechanical drives instead of traditional
drives, a typical example of this tendency is the introduction of electronic dobbies on looms.
Manpower is one of the most important fact behind achieving a good quality product. In
an organization, from the manager down to the worker is responsible for quality. So, to improve
the manpower mainly in the lower level needs motivation, not necessary to be in economic
incentives also can be coherent training policy.
Means of Working, it is important to pay attention to the correct and precise definition
of work procedures, optimizing the equipment given to each worker and installed in the workplace
on the basis of ergonomic and environmental studies.
2.4.Quality Costs
Checking, identifying and working with faults cause costs that are called quality costs or
costs of quality. Quality costs can be divided into four groups:
1. Prevention Costs:
 Product/process design
 Process control
 Burn-in
 Training
 Quality data acquisition and analysis
2. Assessment Costs:

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 Inspection and test of received material
 Product inspection and test
 Material and services disbursed
 Upholding accurateness of test equipment
3. In-house Failure Costs:
 Scrap
 Rework
 Retest
 Failure analysis
 Lost time
 Yield losses
 off-spacing
4. External Failure costs
 Objection modification
 Reimbursed product/material
 Liability costs
 External costs
Considering the classification of quality costs listed above, the strategy for dealing with
the problem of manufacturing quality can be divided into three phases:
1. To try to reduce the cost of defects to a minimum.
2. To reduce control costs on the basis of the results obtained.
3. To invest in prevention so as to consolidate and improve such results.
And the important thing is quality is not a static concept but a dynamic one.
2.5.Quality System of the Organization
An organization quality system can be combination between two typical arrangements:

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1) Horizontal dependence, mainly in small factories where the quality departments receive
the reports directly from the operational managers of the various activities: raw material control,
process control, final testing, complaints.
2) Vertical dependence, in which there is a Quality Control Management responsible for
different services, each of which has its own organizational structure: in this way the function of
inspection is separated from that of administration and laboratory.
Quality Control Management is a system of the lifecycle for an organization. It has to be
presented and directed by top management. Efforts to implement quality management often be
unsuccessful as top management does not lead and get committed but just delegates and pays lip
service. From a decade, ERP systems have become one of the most powerful tools for quality
management. The important characteristics of quality management include customer-driven
quality, top management leadership and commitment, continuous improvement, quick reaction,
activities based on specifics, member contribution and a quality management principles. This
software is a category of business-management software, a suite of integrated application that an
organization can use to collect, store, manage and read statistics from many business goings-on,
as well as acquisition, product planning, manufacturing, marketing, sales, inventory controlling,
service delivery, shipping, and payment. Another important software is manufacturing resource
planning which is a technique for the operative Planning of all resources of a developed company.
Ideally, it addresses effective arrangement in units, economic planning and has an limitation
capability to answer “what-if” questions and extension of a closed loop of material requirements
planning. And this material requirements planning is a manufacturing planning, arranging, and
inventory control system used to manage manufacturing processes. Furthermost MRP systems
are software constructed, while it is possible to conduct MRP by hand as well. Piacenza uses
material requirements planning software named DOT customized by Domina s.r.l. Biella, Italy.

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2.6.Raw Material
Raw material is a distinctive element in any production-oriented textile industry. It plays
a vital role in the continuous production and for high-quality fabric. Fratelli Piacenza S.P.A is
well renowned all over the world for producing high-quality fabric. To produce high-quality
fabric Piacenza purchases the best quality fibers as follows:
Vicuña
The trade name is known all over the world as Vicuna from Andean Camelids. The fiber
is very short even hang from the neck, long, shades lighter, almost white. With a fineness between
12 and 13 microns and a price of about € 1200/kg, vicuna covers the tip of the pyramid of noble
fibers. Piacenza purchases vicuna from Peru.
Guanaco
The Guanaco or Huánuco is part of the South American camelid family. The hair of
guanaco is a little lower than that of Vicuna as quality and fineness. Central Peru and Argentina
is now living place for guanaco.
Qiviut
Qiviut is a word that in the Inuvialuit language means “goose down”. The fine basecoat
of the Canadian Arctic musk ox. An amazing combination of external coating, composed of 60cm
long ordinary hairs and in inside shorter and very fine, which protect the animal from temperatures
easily reach -60ᵒC. The length of the qiviut is about 30 mm with a fineness equal to 13-14 microns.
Merino Wool
From the past few decades, farmers of Australia and New Zealand have particularly
specialized in the breeding of Merino for the production of extra-fine wool. In addition to the
fibers of vicuna and Nepali antelope and the much more long fiber, allowing the textile industry
to develop fine yarns almost like a spider’s web (140000 meters of thread can be produced from

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1 kg of merino wool). Currently, the annual production of wool by 12.9 to 13.4 microns is about
1500/1800 kg of which Lanificio Piacenza buys more than 70% because they have “an obsession
with quality” only for customers.
Yangir
The Yangir or Siberian Ibex, despite harbors the name of the geographical area of Siberia,
lives in mountain areas from India to Mongolia. In Mongolian, the word “Yangir” means a robust
animal with fine wool. The color of this wool varies from chocolate brown to cream, has the
appearance of cashmere, but it’s even nicer, softer and warmer. Worldwide this wild species of
goat only produces a few hundred pounds of wool a year. The coat of yangir has a fineness of 13
microns and the amount available in the market is very limited.
Cashmere
Even the mere sound of the word Cashmere is evocative. It is certainly contained
something romantic, magical, that no other fiber encapsulates. A simple item of clothing, even if
it just a scarf, it becomes magical. Producing goats of this hair come from the mountains and
plateaus regions of Asia Minor to the Himalayas, Mongolia, and China and also from Afghanistan
and Iran. These goats, especially those of Tibet and china, have adopted to live in places with
very cold temperatures in winter down to -30ᵒC and in summer the weather is hot. These
environmental conditions favor better quality of the duvet (undercoat) and it is for this reason that
no one else can match that of cashmere goats and Alashan of Inner Mongolia. The color is divided
into three colors: white, brown and gray; white is obviously the most sought after color.
Camel
The scientific name Bacterianus was given by Carlous Linnaeus in 1758 because he
thought it originated in Bactria, a region between Afghanistan and Uzbekistan. Animal strong and
resistant, it is able to carry loads up to two tons for several days. Compared to the dromedary it
has a thicker leather that becomes particularly long in the lower area of the neck. The camel with

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two humps, whose color varies from reddish to dark brown, almost black in used different
products. There is also a white coat, also described by Marco Polo, the most valuable but also
rarer. It has a length of 28-34 mm and the diameter can vary from baby (17-17.5 microns) to adult
which abundantly exceeds 20microns. The baby is the most precious and the most expensive.
Mohair
Turkey has for many years prohibited the export of the breed Angora, but it was in 1839
when the first angora goats were imported, CEH South Africa has emerged as a world leader in
Mohair production, both in terms of volume of quality. The weight of the hair production is on
average 1.6 kg per subject. The average fineness of the mohair is 36 microns (24-25 microns in
kids). The fleece fibers are white and smooth and boast a silky structure united with high strength.
Both the shape and the fiber structure enhance the reflective qualities of the light that give the
mohair its unique, characteristic luster.
Cashgora
The cashgora is the soft down of a goat, offspring of a hybrid cross between a male angora
goat (used to produce mohair) and a brade female goat cashmere, raised mostly in New Zealand.
The average fiber diameter of 17-23 microns, soft and delicate to the touch. As well as the
Australian cashmere, cashgora is sleeker Chinese cashmere. It may be that this peculiarity is due
to the presence of blood in breed angora goats. The cashgora fiber has a length of its 30-90 mm,
that a higher resistance to that cashmere.
Yak
The yak (Bos grunniens Linnaeus 1766) also said yak, is an ungulate mammal of the
Bovidae family. The yak wild live on the plateau of the Tibet, the Pamirs and Himalayas, up to
6000 meters above sea level. The fur of younger yak 18-20 microns is used for clothing, while
the long-haired adults above 20 microns are used for weaving blankets and tents.

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Alpaca
With the exceptions of the experts, few can distinguish Alpaca ethnic types: Suri and
Huacaya. Suri, produces greater quantities of wool per head and its fiber, than the huacaya, it is
longer and silky. Huacaya, is much more widespread of suri, with a ratio of about 10:1. Compared
to the species suri, its fiber is shorter and wooly. Another important characteristic, together with
the horse mackerel, is the great variety of natural colors, from white to black, passing through 14
shades of color.
Llama
Among the South American camelids, the llama is to more weight size. It measures about
1.20 meters at the shoulder and 1.80 meters at the head, with a weight of 80 kg. It produces about
4 kg of fiber in four basic colors: white, brown, gray and black. Lanificio Piacenza only purchases
baby llama fibers.
Cotton
Cotton is soft, staple fiber that grows around the seeds of the cotton plants, belonging to
the Malvaceae family of the genus Gossypium, native to tropical and subtropical regions around
the world, including the Americas, Asia, and Africa. It’s called the white gold of fibers. Cotton
absorbs moisture readily, which makes cotton clothes comfortable to wear in warm weather or to
be used for towels (water retention of 50%, moisture regain of 7%). Lanificio Piacenza purchases
only Egyptian cotton best in the world.
Flax
Flax is a member of the genus Linum in the family Linaceae. It is inborn to the area
spreading from the eastern Mediterranean to India and was extensively cultivated in ancient
Egypt. The term flax is applied to fiber and yarn, whilst the name for the sewing threads and
fabrics linen. Highly absorbent and a good heat conductor, linen fabric senses cool to the touch.

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Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber (namely the fibrous protein called fibroin), some forms of
which can be woven into luxury textiles. Silk fabric was first established in ancient China,
probably as early as 6000 BC and definitely by 3000 BC. The amount of fiber consumed by
Fratelli Piacenza, silk is after wool and cashmere.
Besides, above-mentioned fibers Piacenza also uses a small amount of Polyamide and
Spandex as mixed with wool, cashmere, silk and flax to give the fabric more resistant and stretch
properties. After purchasing and importing the fibers, Piacenza spun the fibers into yarns from
various spinning mills owned by other companies because they don’t have their own spinning
plant. And also Lanificio Piacenza purchase yarns from the spinning mills in Italy and also from
other countries.
2.7.Raw Material Consumption
Yearly raw material consumption of Lanificio Piacenza over total production approximately:
Above consumption is a hypothesis because it varies i.e. wool: 50-60%, cashmere: 20-30%,
silk: 10-15% and others (cotton, flax, and polyamide, spandex): 5-10% based on their yearly
production.
60%20%
10%
10%
Raw Material Consumption
Wool
Cashmere
Silk
Others

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Chapter: 3
Process Control
3.1.Definition
Process Control is the active changing of the process created on the outcomes of process
observing. Once the process monitoring tools have detected an out of control condition, the
individual liable for the process, makes a change to bring the process back into control. The facts
need to control, always differs process to process and also on the type of product. The process
control scheme of Lanificio Piacenza is given below:
Warping
Sizing
Drawing-in
Piecing-up
Weaving
Grey Fabric Inspection
Pile FinishingMilled FinishingClear Finishing
Singeing
Scouring
Crabbing
Dyeing
Scouring
Crabbing
Carbonizing
Milling
Dyeing
Inspection
Scouring
Crabbing
Carbonizing
Milling
Dyeing
Raising
Dyeing
Wet brushing
Inspection
Inspection
Drying
Inspection

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In a fabric manufacturing company the first process is warp preparation which is divided
into sub processes as follows:
3.2.Warping
Warping is the first process of warp preparation for weaving. It is aimed at preparing the
weaver’s beam to be set up on the weaving machine. Warping carries out following operations:
 Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads (creel load), of a warp, consists of any
number of threads with the desired length.
 The arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the anticipated sequence.
 Manufacturing of a warp beam with said characteristics.
Lanificio Piacenza produces a wide range of designs using a wide range of colors and types of
yarn with high quality in a small amount. Which is why they use warp sampling machine. They
have two warp sampling machine.
1. KARL MAYER Multi-matic MM64 Warp sampling machine (Origin- Germany)
It is a single-end warp sampling machine for the production of samples, stencils, and
medium production warps. The machine ensures an excellent quality of woven fabrics meeting
highest demands. Main features of this machine are high productivity and a unique patterning
flexibility.
Main Features:
 Fully automatic warp sampling machine.
Shearing
Decatizing
Steaming
Final Fabric Control
Steaming

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 Can be employed both as sampling machine and as a production machine.
 Intended for manufacture of sample warps and of production warps with a warp length
of 35 m to maximum 1500 m
 Enables patterning with up to 128 individually controlled guide fingers.
 Warp build-up with
laying bands
 Carbon color selector
 Magazine creel
 Minimum set-up times
possible due to design
repeat input during
production via CAD
system and office PC.
Technical features:
Warp length range- 35-1500 mm
Maximum No. of packages- 128
Optical yarn break detection- Yes
Maximum warping speed- 800m/min
Maximum leasing speed- 800m/min
Maximum color change speed- 800m/min
Maximum beaming speed- 60m/min, 150m/min optional 60
Pre-draw off drum- Optional
2. SUZUKI Sample Warper NAS-140 (Origin- Japan)
Main features:
 Working width 2250 mm
Fig 3.1: Karl Mayer Multi-matic MM64

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 System to enable operation with both standard creel and rotational creel in one process
 Standard creel 10 colors
with 10 weft accumulators, with
stop motion, with pneumatic yarn
drawback system and with
electronic stop signal in case of yarn
breakage.
 Rotational creel 8 colors
with 8 weft accumulators, with
pneumatic yarn drawback system.
 IBM compatible
computerized system (interface/software) for pattern control and creel combination.
Offline control:
The operator put the yarn packages in the creel according to the design. While putting the
yarn packages in the creel need more attention in case of presence of more than one color in the
design. When the yarn started wrapping in the machine, the operator checks the order of the yarns
manually with the design catalog. As soon as any yarn breaks operator ties with a small and strong
knot otherwise after weaving it becomes a major defect. And sometimes when yarn breaks and
unable to find the end in the machine, operator puts a mark with another colored yarn tying with
the yarn in the machine. Later on in weaving, operators knots the missing yarn.
Online Control:
When the operator inserts the design in the machine software, it automatically gives the
creel map (to put the package in creel stand as given the order). If any yarn breaks during warping,
the machine stops automatically and shows the no. of the creel holding the package to tie the knot.
Fig 3.2: Suzuki NAS-140

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In Karl Mayer machine, warping done in an inverted way (one up another down) which holds the
order of the yarn and for which the design always remains intact.
3.3. Sizing
Sizing is a corresponding process which is carried out on warps formed by spun yarns
with insufficient tenacity or by continuous filament yarns with zero twists. Sizing consists of
impregnating the yarn with particular substances which form a film on the yarn surface with the
aim of improving yarn smoothness and tenacity during the subsequent weaving stage. Because of
its improved tenacity and elasticity, the yarn can stand without problems the tensions and the
rubbing caused by weaving. Sizing is a general rule for cotton but is rarely performed on wool.
But for high production now in some cases also in wool sized material being introduced. In
Piacenza, sample warping machines contain a built-in sizing system. But it’s not a dense sizing
like conventional sizing process. They use Larofil DE 45-Extra as size material. And the amount
requires using depend on the yarn whether strong or weak. The operator checks the yarn and if
feels that it is enough strong, then insert 30% (pick-up percentage) in the software and if the yarn
is weak then they normally insert up to 50% (pick-up percentage) in the PC.
3.4.Drawing-in
Drawing-in is the entering of yarns from a new warp into the weaving elements of a
weaving machine, specifically, drop wires, heald wires, and reed, when starting up a new style.
Lanificio Piacenza has an automatic drawing-in system.
Staubli Safir S80 (Made in Switzerland):
It is a high-performance drawing installation. The machine draws warp yarns directly
from one or two warp beams with up to two layers each into the healds, drop wires, and reed.

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Fig 3.3: Staubli Safir S80
Features:
 Maximum drawing-in speed (ends/min)- 155
 No. of warps in 8hrs- up to 6
 Warp width- 2.3/4
 No. of warp beams- 1/2
 Maximum No. of layers- 2/4
 Reed density (dents/10cm)- 350 (500)
 Maximum No. of heald frames- 28
 Maximum rows of drop wires- 6/8
 No. of drop wire paths- 1
 Yarn count range (tex)- 3-250
But for complicated design with different types of yarn they do manually which takes 8-12 hours.
3.5.Piecing-up
The piecing up of the warp yarns permits to the weaving mills which are in a position to
use it to simplify and speed up noticeably the loom beginning operations in case of warps which

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were draw-in or tied-up outer of the weaving machine. The warp threads are placed into a uniform
layer by the brush roller of the piecing-up machine and successively pieced-up amongst two
plastic sheets respectively about 5 cm and 140 cm wide, both covering the whole warp path. If a
new drawing-in operation is not necessary because no style change is needed, the warp is taken
from the beam store and brought directly to the weaving floor, where it is knotted on board the
loom to the warp prepared with the knotting machine (Titan and Staubli Topmatic).
Fig 3.4: Staubli Topmatic Fig 3.5: Titan Textile Machine
3.6.Weaving
The study on the shuttle loom was dropped in the first half of the 1970’s, with the arrival
on the market and the prevalence of systems using for weft insertion other ways than the shuttle.
The new shuttle less machines are simply called ‘weaving machines’, this term implying looms
working without shuttle. The weaving machines present following advantages over traditional
looms:
1. Total elimination of any spooling operation.
2. Production increases, thanks to the fact that these machines can work at high speed, owing
to the reduction or elimination of moving masses.
3. Reduction of the shed size, therefore lower tension of the warp threads and consequently
reduction in the number of yarn breaks.
4. Noise reduction thanks to the elimination of the shuttle pick.

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5. Automation of various devices.
Fratelli Piacenza has 40 rapier weaving loom (38 cam shedding and 2 jacquard shedding) from
different manufacturers as follows:
a) Dornier PTS (Origin- Germany)
Fig 3.6: Dornier PTS
Features:
 Specific filling insertion system
 Immediate machine starts after product change
 Wide application range
 Open shed filling insertion for minimal friction
 Precision controlled transfer
 Filling yarn tension level: Best by all standards
 Fast Ethernet technology control system: Innovative and fit for the future.
b) i) Picanol GamMax (Origin- Belgium)
Features:
 Quickstep filling presenter for low filling tension.

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 Mechanical Tuck-in
 Easy Warp gaiting
and cloth doffing
 True quick style
change
 Electronic Take-
up and Let-off
 4, 8 or 12 color
insertion.
 Free flight rapier
for delicate fabrics
 Electronic yarn tension control
 Variable pick densities
ii) Picanol OptiMax (Origin- Belgium)
Features:
 Optimized
shade
geometry
 Free flight
system
 Guided
gripper system
 Quickstep filling presenter for up to 12 color insertion.
 Exchangeable shed formation
 Optileno (in same fabric s/z direction can be changed to z/s direction)
Fig 3.7: Picanol GamMax
Fig 3.8: Picanol OptiMax

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 Electronic right-hand gripper
 Programmable filling tensioner
 Electronic selvedge system
 Electronic take-up or Let-off
c) Leonardo Vamatex (Origin- Italy)
Fig 3.9: Leonardo Vamatex
Offline control:
During weaving the main controls concern is loom stoppage due to warp or weft yarn
breakage. And to tie the broken yarn loom operator uses knots. These must be fisherman’s knots
since it has been demonstrated that their performance is superior to that of other types of knot
(flat knots, weaver’s knot, double knots etc.) as regards the tendency to become undone during
the course of the successive operations: the question is, however, the subject of a radical
reconsideration with the diffusion of the ‘splice’ type of joint. The examination of the ‘strip’
which is woven at the start of every warp; this control is made by particularly expert personnel,
perhaps after dyeing the strip. And periodic control, loom by the loom, a specially trained
inspector does the ‘rounds’ and examines the newly woven fabric (between the reed and the
clothing beam) and highlights the defects by marking chalk marks on the fabric. In Piacenza, from
each production shift one person from fabric inspection department does the round for twice in

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each loom and marks the defects by chalk and also notified the weaving floor supervisor about
the defects. Then supervisor takes required a step to prevent the defects from further appearing in
the fabric.
Online Control:
In modern looms, almost everything controlled by the online process and the looms
Piacenza uses all is computer controlled. We can classify control areas as follows:
a) Rate of warp or weft thread breakages:
This data can be collected from the computer controlled monitoring system mounted on
the looms. And also data obtained can naturally be used to produce control charts as below:
LC = c ± 3 √𝑐
Where, LC = the control limits
c = No. of qualitative standard defects per piece
Example: the qualitative standard of a given article implies, c = 1.2 defects per piece. The
control limits will be fixed at the values LC = 1.2 ± 3 √1.2 i.e. from 0 to 4.49 (rounded down to
4) defects. The production will be considered to be under control until pieces with more than 4
defects are discovered.
b) The warp and weft tension:
In the loom, the tension of warp and weft threads are controlled electronically.
c) The sett:
In the orthodox loom, to control the no. of picks per unit length weaver used to insert a
special ‘counting thread’. But now, the computer controlled monitoring system provides the data.
d) The control of weft supply:
The weft yarn supply is done by the accumulator. It supplies the weft yearn continuously,
which in principle implies a stop and automatic repair when a breakage occurs and creates tension
before the insertion and to make it adjustable, in function of a number of process device ( a type

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of yarn, insertion device, environmental condition). It keeps constant the selected tension, which
ideally asks for feedback between this function and the preceding one, in order to achieve
corrections in real time. And also weft feeder exchanges information with the other parts of the
loom, with the aim of coordinating its various function by doing calculations within fractions of
seconds which is possible because of the microprocessor. But the accumulator Piacenza uses
doesn’t have auto repairing system when weft yarn breaks. Weaver knots the yarn manually. And
if any weft breaks in the middle of the shedding then the loom automatically takes out the weft
yarn and new weft insert on that position.
e) The control of warp delivery:
In this case, the functions to be performed are the same as were enumerated before for
the weft, but one should keep in mind that large operational differences exist: thousands of end in
the warp instead of a maximum of ,say, 8-12 in the weft, completely different speeds. In
comparison with the feeding of the weft, this area appears to be far behind in the adoption of
control systems, the reason being in part the high cost of the appropriate solutions. But warp
delivery controlled by the electrical let-off motion in the loom of Piacenza weaving floor.
f) The control of loom cycle:
Considering four fundamental functions of a loom (shed formation; weft selection,
insertion and beating up; warp let-off; fabric take-up), a unit aiming at controlling the whole cycle
capable of setting and regulating the individual devices which are in control for each of those
tasks; moreover, it undertakes a task of supervision, in order to detect any anomaly and to take
appropriate measures. The integration of the controls pertaining to the individual areas, which is
achieved by the cycle controller, is indeed responsible for the high performances of looms and
for increasing the quality of the fabrics.
g) Centralized control of weaving floor:
As far as the remote control of the individual loom is concerned, the principle of bi-
directional communication between the machine and the computer allows interventions to be

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achieved both for programming (CAD/CAM systems) and for quality control. Lanificio Piacenza
uses one system called ‘Logitex’, a customized system to control the weaving floor remotely. In
this software, it detects the stoppage of the loom and the reasons, looms speed, warp, and weft
thread delivery and the productivity.
3.7.Grey Fabric inspection
The control of this process defined the quality of the fabric. In the wool industry, normally
all woven pieces are inspected, with the twofold aim of controlling the quality of the weaving and
of estimating mending costs. In Piacenza, they use basic fabric inspection machine (Brand Name:
Corimatex, Biella, Italy) which has a lighting system and a motor to control the speed of the fabric
passing. All the gray cloth has passed through visual assessment by trained employee. With their
experience, the quality control department developed identifiable quality control system i.e. if, in
a 50 meters cloth amount of defects around 7, they consider it as under tolerance. While doing
the inspection they find the following defects mainly:
a) Warp wise (full or part length):
Thick or thin end: a warp thread that differs in diameter from the corresponding normal ends.
Tight or black end: a warp thread or part of warp thread that is tighter or slacker than the
corresponding normal ends.
Missing end or broken end: the absence of a complete warp thread or part of a warp thread.
Double end: Thread or part of the thread in the warp which is accidently doubled.
b) Stripes in the warp:
Stripes or streaks for full or part lengthwise, showing up against the rest of the piece.
c) Weft way:
Thick or thin place: a weft thread that differs in diameter from the corresponding normal picks.
Tight or slack pick: a weft thread or part of a weft thread that is tighter or slacker than the
corresponding normal picks.

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Missing Pick: the unintentional omission of one complete pick across the full width of the cloth.
Broken Pick: a pick that is inserted into only part of the cloth path.
Double pick: thread or pieces of thread in the weft which from the woven structure but are
accidentally doubled.
Trailer: weft yarn that has been pulled inadvertently into the fabric during weaving.
d) Bars in the weft:
Streaks for full or part length weftwise, showing up against the rest of the piece.
e) Knots or slubs in warp or weft threads:
Knots or slubs in some of the weft or warp threads, visible to an experienced person and which
spoil the appearance of the face of the cloth.
f) Cut wefts:
Short pieces of cut wefts.
g) Stains:
Area of cloth contaminated with impurities.
h) Fault in design:
Sometimes in the fabric unintentionally warp or weft misses which is against the basic design and
also design dimensions (non-symmetrical distribution of design) differ in the center or near the
selvedge.
i) Mass or weight per linear meter:
In Piacenza, the person who inspects the cloth does the calculations manually in the process card
to ensure the accurate mass per linear meter. The tolerance limit is given below:

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Required
Weight/ linear meter
(gm.)
Without size material With size material
Minimum
(gm.)
Maximum
(gm.)
Minimum
(gm.)
Maximum
(gm.)
Less than 350 -15 +15 +15 +40
From 350 to 600 -25 +25 +25 +75
More than 600 -35 + 35 +35 +100
j) Length of the cloth:
The length is defined as the distance between markers at the head and tail ends of the cloth.
Sometimes it becomes less and behind this, there are so many reasons (wrong calculation of
required length of the warp threads).
k) Width:
The tolerance level for width ± 2-5 cm depends on the type of the fabric.
l) Skew:
Distortion in the structure of the fabric i.e. in the yarn that creates the fabric. The pattern
on one side of the fabric is ahead of the pattern on the opposite side. Skew is defined as the
distance measure parallel to and along a selvedge among the point at which a filling or course
yarn, stripe, or leading line meets the other selvedge.
m) Foreign Matter:
Foreign matter distributed throughout the piece and visible on the cloth face.
Upon completion of gray fabric inspection, the person inserts all the faults in the MRP software
according to the article identity in the software. And after that directly send to the mending to
repair/remove the faults. And then, cloth rolls pass through next finishing processes.

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3.8.Finishing
The aim of the finishing is to provide the customer with a valuable product, both from
the aesthetic and functional point of view and particularly to satisfy the technical requirements of
making-up industry. Seeing the appearance in the loom state of gray fabric three functions to be
performed:
a) The elimination of foreign matter;
b) The development of the ‘finish’, in its essential components of hand and aspect;
c) The endowment of the finished fabric with such properties as to guarantee an optimum
behavior in making-up and during wear.
In order to achieve the customer requirement and depend on the various articles, the wool
fabric goes through different types of operations. There is no exact finishing cycle, given the great
variety of types and variants (in particular the so-called fancy finishes, which are typical of certain
classes of pile fabrics, will not be dealt with); and on the other hand, the indications which follow
are given to fairly general rules, because the same article can be finished in various ways by
different companies. Piacenza’s produces both yarn dyed and fabric dyed article. But they do only
fabric dyeing. And the position of dyeing in the process cycle is vary article to article. Sometimes
after milling directly dyeing, sometimes after raising. Because of why, we will not mention the
dyeing process in the below-finishing cycles. Mainly there are three types of finishing: clear,
milled and pile finishing.
Clear fabric finishing:
The main characteristics of this finish are clear visibility of the pattern or weasve. This is
done by avoiding the formation of hairiness in the wet processing treatment. This process is
mainly applied to the worsted fabrics used for spring and summer garments such as suits, shirts,
pants etc. The scheme can be:
Scouring – wet setting – drying – milling (mild) – shearing – decatizing

40 | P a g e
But in the case of superfine wool, they do singeing without shearing and in decatizing they do
amphoteric, KD and also continuous decatizing. Sometimes for some articles steaming also done.
Milled fabric finishing:
This finish process is mainly applied to woolen and also sometimes worsted (flannels, foules etc.)
and raising is not performed in this finish cycle. Because of milling, hair developed in the fabric
surface with the felting effect which hides the weave. Although the process is similar to clear
finish but the degree of milling is different for cheviot fabric (5-10%) and for melton (flannels,
foules etc.) fabric (10-20%). Like the earlier cycle different decatizing can be done.
Scouring – milling – washing- drying – shearing – decatizing
Pile fabric finishing:
Pile fabrics mainly two types: Without direction and with direction.
1) Fabrics with pile without direction:
The fabric with pile direction has done in metallic wires raising machine and also mainly
two types:
a) Velours: In this fabric the pile is lifted (duvetine and mouflon are different from velours
because the length of their pile is respectively short and long but the finishing cycle is same).
Scouring – milling – washing – metallic wire raising – shearing (wet) – shearing – steaming.
b) Fabric with freely laid pile: this process is mainly for blankets.
Grease milling – washing – drying – metallic raising – shearing – steaming.
2) Fabrics with laid down pile:
There are mainly two types of fabric in this cycle.

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a) Drapes: This is a heavily milled fabric with short and decisively laid down pile in the
warp direction. It is made of very fine wools and the surface is partially or heavily covered. It is
a lengthy finishing cycle:
Scouring – milling – washing – drying – metallic raising – shearing – metallic brushing –
vegetable raising – shearing – wet brushing with rest on the roll – shearing – steaming –
decatizing.
b) Loden: In this fabric the pile longer and less decisively laid down to the surface. And
also sometimes with water proof treatment.
Scouring – milling – washing – hydro extraction – setting – metallic pre-raising – vegetable
raising – shearing – wet brushing with rest on the roll – drying – shearing – decatizing.
As we can see that finishing is a long and time-consuming process. So, it can be divided into two
groups: Wet finishing and dry finishing.
3.8.1. Wet Finishing
Wet finishing is done by water or solvents to remove unwanted contaminates from textile
material. And also to improve the quality of the material by doing subsequent processes as
follows:
3.8.1.1 Singeing
This treatment has the purpose of eliminating the protruding fiber from the fabric, in order
to make more evident and visible the fabric weave and to yield a smooth surface, besides ensuring
higher soil resistance and lower tendency of pilling. This operation generally carried out on loom
state fabric pieces and its residues are removed through subsequent scouring process. Singeing is
occasionally carried out on knitted fabrics, but quite frequently on woven fabrics. A preventive
brushing prepares the fabric to singeing, by eliminating fluff and impurities. The singeing tool is
an oxidizing flame which does not leave any sooty residue on the fiber. The latest singeing
machines operate with a gas/air ratio controlled by a motorized mixer, in order to assure a perfect

42 | P a g e
combustion; moreover, a pyrometer for the control of fabric temperature adjusts the singeing
effect by varying flame height or fabric running speed. A suction and dumping unit ensure the
removal of the fumes generated during the process. In Lanificio Piacenza, there is no singeing
machine, but they do this process from outside factory only for the fabrics for the suit, made of
fine worsted yarn.
Fig 3.10: Gas singeing machine with path diagram
3.8.1.2. Scouring
With a few exceptions (pre-setting or singeing), scouring is the first operation after
mending, to which a loom state fabric is subjected. On wool, the scouring process removes oils
and dirt accumulated upstream processing stages and can be carried out on slivers, yarns, and
fabrics with solutions containing sodium carbonate with soap or ammonia, or anionic and non-
ionic surfactants, which carry out a less intense washing but do not damage the fibers. Scouring
is regularly carried out by means of continuous or discontinuous systems, with the same machine
used for downstream treatments, processing time, temperature, PH
, concentration of reagents,
depend on the fiber and on the machine used. To sum up, an exhaustive treatise on wool fabric
scouring should deal with the following points:
a) Phenomenon of detergency:
The properties of detergents (Livel super AM/06, Mab AR, Livel Disp 04-TAD, MAB
09, WOOLSET P2) are linked to their action on the surface of the fabric. As follows:

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 Wetting power
 Detergent power
 Emulsifying power
 Anti-re-deposition power
 Foaming power
There are three classes of surfactants:
 Anionic
 Cationic
 Nonionic
b) Process technology
In Lanificio Piacenza, they have both batch wise, discontinuous and continuous scouring
machine.
Batch wise scouring machine (Flaminio regis EK91):
This is a traditional open width scouring machine. The main technological problem is
really poor squeezing efficiency and low mechanical action. The working cycles are more but be
likely to prevent a satisfactory stress
relaxation from occurring. Another
problem is keeping the fabric well
open, guiding it through action
rollers and opening devices.
Therefore, open-width batch wise
scouring machine is much less
productive than a rope one.
Fig 3.11: Open width batch wise scouring machine

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Discontinuous rope scouring machine (Rotor Mat-3C):
The machine contains a huge drum with a perforated surface considered to drive the fabric
in rope form. From inside the drum, a huge fan sucks the air and projects it in a loop circuit that
blows it on the outer surface of the same
drum. The material conveyed at high
speed by the drum is threw against a
plate of special design. In the combined
action of the impact contrary to the
material (mechanical effect) and of the
resultant ‘forced explosion’ of the air
that was reserved below force in the top
cover by the fibers, the fabric is relaxed.
The instantaneous action of the air
suction and the air pressure, functioning
in the same course, force the ropes to decisively follow on the surface of the drum. The carrying
of the ropes is then done without mechanical pressure and without strain them: the absence of
mechanical pressure is the best assurance of creases free procedure, while the lack of strain is the
best assurance for the dimensional stability of the material.
Feature:
 A program self-cleaning filter delivered to eliminate fiber and dust produced in the
process.
 An outside tank for the preparation of chemical substances (Amphotex MB23, Livel
Super AM10, Lubatex SZ)
 Pumps which drive chemicals straightly into the main air stream to spray the chemical
smoothly on the ropes.
Fig 3.12: Rotormat fabric path diagram

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 Steam delivery into the central air stream: particular fabric in the process may require
that.
 Operational speed up to 1000m/min and loading capacity up to 400 kg of dry textile.
 And generally, the machine is controlled by a computer.
Open width continuous scouring machine (LAVANOVA Ecosystem + Rotor Dry – CIMI):
Lavanova constantly ensures the necessary accuracy, repeatability and reproducibility of
specific treatments for each fabric and demonstrates the versatility with new fabrics, new
processes and the new needs of each manufacturer. The extensive options for combining modules
provide the most effective solution for every need of washing, but basically, the heart of the
process is based on two key concepts:
Cascade vs. dipping:
Scouring and rinsing sections work with a water counter-flow cascade which varies from
the mainstream of other washing lines.
Reaction chamber:
While the process requires staying below definite conditions, reaction chamber uses three
different techniques:
 The Classical vertical channels with more repeated dives and ascends into a higher level
of liquor.
 Other vertical channels with more repeated dives and ascents into a low level of liquor.
 Special vertical channels with a complete immersion in a hot environment fully saturated
by steam = incredible reduction of water consumption.
Normally in case of heavy fabric machine speed 10-15 meter/min. But for light or delicate
fabric speed is really high up to 50 meters/min.

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Fig 3.13: Lavanova ECO System
Machine control:
The Lavanova Ecosystem is built-in with an industrial PC and control panel for worker
interface. Supervision of the processes is handled through a touch screen with a highly versatile
software, adaptable and intuitive. It controls the entire machining process, the temperatures, the
speed, the replenishment of water and/or chemical components, and is also able to perform a
diagnostic on many components, such as to notify in real time any anomaly, the cause and the
eventual remedy.
Rotor Dry:
The combination of high quality and low cost of production is absolutely necessary for
the production of any textile product for the global brands remain in the same despite competition.
The possibility to do a wet process with its final drying in a small plant and without requiring
additional staff, even better cost and quality ratio. Rotor dry is a drying system specially
considered with the aim to optimize the following advantage.
 Normal drying times and reduction of stenter work load, removed problems of carrying
wet fabrics such as yellowing, creases, mould etc.
 Better dimensional stability, crease free; slightest and adjustable tensions exerted on the
fabric.

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 The sectional manufacture of the rotor dry used to determine the number of drying
cylinders according to the
production needs of the client,
ensuring the final quality of
the product and easy
operating.
 The correct no. of
cylinders and the right
temperature settings ensure a
perfect drying of any fabric
quickly with a better-quality.
 Throughout the gentle drying process, the nominal tension applied to the fabric ensured
by the dancing rollers which recompense the dimensional variations of the fabric and control the
speed of the motors in the actual period.
3.8.1.3. Carbonizing
During processing of finest and long staple wools for the production of worsted yarns,
foreign matters are almost completely removed by combing machine. The combed sliver contains
very small amount of foreign particles, which do not affect further treatments, mainly dyeing
process. Whereas for woolen needs to do a special treatment to remove vegetable contamination
such as grass seeds and seed husks from fabric. The fabric is treated with acid (H2SO4) at high
temperature to convert the cellulose in hydrocellulose which can be crushed and mechanically
removed from the fabric. The process parameters must be carefully regulated to reduce the
damages on the keratin. Piacenza doesn’t have carbonizing machine but they do this process from
outside factory.
Fig 3.14: Rotor Dry

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Fig 3.15: Carbonizing machine
3.8.1.4. Bagging
To perform million or rope scouring action fabrics are bagged by sewing the selvedges
together to make a tube. Bagging is
performed for mechanical action in
milling or scouring machine. The
bagging machine (Nesi & Pugi,
ATH290), is fully automatic which
results in less engagement of operator.
Because of the automatic control, the
two fabric edges are perfectly brought
into line during the fabric doubling and
this condition together with edges depth and stitch length adjustments allow an excellent sewing
result. This operation is executed at a speed of 3000 stitches per minute.
3.8.1.5. Milling
Milling process has three general aims:
 To increase the mass per unit surface of the fabric by reducing its length and width and
an increase in thickness also happens.
Fig 3.16: Bagging machine ATH 290

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 To give the fabric special hand and surface effects related to both dimensional and weight
variations as well as the development of hairiness and the consequent greater or lesser
attenuation of the visual effect of the fabric.
 To prepare the fabric for subsequent processes especially for raising.
Two types of milling machines are available:
1) Rotary milling machine:
The traditional milling
operation with rotary machines
(Flaminio Regis), fabrics of
combed, carded or blended wool
(non-scoured, scoured or carbonized
and neutralized) at about 40ᵒ are
soaked and are subjected, in the
presence of special surfactants
(Amphotex and lubatex St) to
continuous pressure both in weft and
warp direction. Under conditions,
wool fibers tend to felt, thus causing fabric shrinkage and subsequent dynamic compacting. After
this operation, need to wash the fabric to remove dirty water and chemical. Temperature and
mechanical stress must be carefully controlled during all the processing steps; the operation is
completed when the desired shrinkage degree has been obtained. Obviously, it is necessary to
avoid rope wrinkling or irregular shrinkage on the fabric.
2) Combined scouring and milling machine:
The structure of such a machine (Zonco- Flexicom 800 and Folatex 4c CIMI) differs from that
of a rotary milling machine for two essential elements: the width of the trough (because a no. of
Fig 3.17: Rotary Milling Machine

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ropes are treated, as in a scouring machine) and its depth, because the trough must contain the
liquor which is necessary for the scouring phase (and is absent in a pure milling machine). Also,
other parts of
similar rotary
milling machine
are jaws, pressure
cylinders, box, and
plate. In combined
machine other
things include as
squeezing
cylinders (to favor
the change of washing liquors).
When the process carried out in the case of both machine, the rope is sewn before loading
into a tubular structure to favor the wrinkle movement and avoid irregular tensions on both
selvedges; in this process, an air pocket is formed inside the ‘cylinder’ of wet material, thus
favoring the wrinkle
movement. The
percentage shrinkage in
warp direction is
controlled from the
beginning by means of
markers positioned in
the center of the piece in
the warp direction, at a
one-meter distance.
Fig 3.19: Folatex 4C CIMI
Fig 3.18: Zonco Flexicom 800

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Controls on milling:
Modern milling machinery has devices for regulating and controlling the pressure on
rollers and spout. The main control must be performed during this operation is the measurement
of the dimension of the fabric has reached in the warp and the weft directions. In Piacenza operator
does that manually in the weft direction but warp direction automatically. The experienced worker
check the measurement after every certain period which he determines from his experience and
also depend on the type of article and how much milling percentage is required.
3.8.1.6. Scutching
Scutching machine (rope opener-
CORINO) is used to convert fabric from
rope form to open-width. The rope of fabric
is drawn over an elevated narrow reel and a
sensor detects the twist in the rope as it is
drawn upwards. The fabric then passes
downwards through opening rollers and
guides before being folded rolled up.
Scuthing is mainly carried out on wet fabric after scouring, milling or dyeing.
3.8.1.7. Crabbing
Crabbing treatment is given to a fabric sometimes before scouring, milling but Piacenza
mostly does before piece dyeing to ensure dimensional stability. This is an operation of combined
action of temperature and moisture with a variable time. This operation results in the fabric
reduction of the internal stresses and permanent set of the imparted dimensions. Also due to hygral
expansion wool fibers swell and increase their diameter due to water absorption. Crabbing
permanently sets fabric while it is flattened and under tension. Permanent set introduced during
crabbing varies from about 40 to 85%. In crabbing, pH and time are important variables. Usually
Fig 3.20: Rope Opener machine

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pH 7 or slightly higher and higher is the contact time and higher is the permanent set introduced
(at least 10s).
Lanificio Piacenza has continuous single drum crabbing machine which helps to avoid
end-to-end effects. The fabric is first wet out by padding (fabric is dipped in a bath and squeezed
between rollers) and is then
held against a rotating drum at
a temperature above 100 t0
125ᵒC (depend on the article)
and maximum pressure of 2
bar, by a waterproof endless
blanket (rubber-like material).
In that time, wool fibers goes
to plastic state and the hydrogen and cystine bonds re-shaped by breaking under a more firm
structure which is not cohesive but permanent transformation. The amount of water given to the
fabric (pick-up) can be regulated by the squeezing condition in the padding step: usually 505 or
more. Radial pressure given by the blanket more or less strong with different setting and surface
effect. Thermal shock: fast cooling at the end of the machine.
Machine Specification:
Brand Name: Sperotto Rimar
Model: Multicrab
Year: 2002
3.8.1.8. Dyeing
The dyeing process is aimed at giving the fabric a definite color which permits customize
the product. The dyeing process can be done at any stages of fiber processing, i.e. in different
forms:
- Staple
Fig 3.21: Sperotto Rimar crabbing machine

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- Yarn
- Fabric (rope or open-width)
- And garment.
To perform the dyeing operation one of the necessary components is dyestuff. A dye is a
colorant that goes into solution or dissolves. Dye elements breakdown into single molecules.
There are different kinds of dyes based on the fiber i.e. reactive dyes, direct dyes, vat dyes, azoic
dyes, sulphur dyes etc. Lanificio Piacenza uses mainly reactive and pre-metalized acid dyes from
the manufacturer HUNTSMAN. Reactive dyes react with fiber molecules to form a chemical
compound. These dyes, they are neither applied from alkaline solution or from neutral solutions,
they are alkalized in a different process. Most of the times heating is also used to achieve different
shades. When dyeing part is finished, the fabric is rinsed well with detergent to remove any
unfixed dye. These dyes are initially used for cellulose fibers only but now their various kinds are
used for wool, silk, nylon, acrylics and their blends as well.
In pre-metallized acid dyes, as lanaset dyes used by Piacenza, these dyes represent an
extension of mordant dyes. The metal element being already combined in the dye during the
manufacturing process.
Dyeing method used by Piacenza called exhaust dyeing method. It is a discontinuous
dyeing system. The dye dissolved or dispersed in the dyeing liquor. The material is submerged in
the dyeing liquor and is detached only when most of the dye is transported onto the textile to be
dyed, is dispersed consistently and is adequately breached into the fiber and fixed. At the end of
the process, the material is rinsed to eliminate the unfixed dye. In exhaust dyeing, one of the most
significant methods is to pay consideration to the dyeing variables i.e. dyeing intensity (dye %),
liquor ration (L/R), dye bath exhaustion (E %), electrolytes concentration, PH
, temperature, dyeing
auxiliaries
Lanificio Piacenza does hank and fabric dyeing in rope form. They have a small
laboratory to develop the samples. The lab is automated equipped with dispenser system which
can reproduce the recipes established by the operator by means of a computer-controlled system

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which weighs, mixes and dissolve the dyes and auxiliaries. And the laboratory consists of
following machines:
 Ahiba IR (Data color) and Ahiba Nuance ECO (Data color)
Fig 3.22: AHIBA Nuance ECO Fig 3.23: AHIBA IR
No. of Beaker- 15 and Beaker volume- 300 cc
Sample length- approximately 20-25 cm or more
Sample width- Approximately 10 cm
 Ugolini lab dyeing machine
Bath Volume- 50 liter
Sample length- 1-1.5 meter
Sample width- any width
 Salce automatic balance machine and auto dispenser machine
Fig 3.25: Auto balance machine Fig 3.26: Auto dispenser machine
Fig 3.24: Ugolini lab dyeing machine

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Hank dyeing machine:
1) Brand Name: Maibo- TMB/SV-TR
No. of machine: 2
No. of Arms: 2
2) Brand Name: Maibo- TMB/SV-TRA
No. of machine: 2
No. of Arms: 4 & 8
These are the most applicable machine for dyeing delicate yarns (silk, cashmere
etc.) since prevents the material from being too tightly packed as it happens with other hank
dyeing machines.
 Machines are equipped with horizontal arms perforated in the upper part, on which hanks
are suspended.
 The liquor forced through the arm holes, penetrates into the hanks and is then collected
in an underlying vat.
 Machines are equipped with a rod (turning rod) which moves the hanks at preset times,
changing their bearing point to obtain a more uniform dyeing.
Fig 3.27: Maibo – TMB/SV - TR
Fig 3.28: Maibo- TMB/SV-TRA (8 arm)

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 During hank motion, the flow of the liquor is blocked to avoid the creation of masses in
the yarn and Machines do not run under pressure.
 The operating costs of these machines are generally very high because it requires a very
high liquor ratio (1:15 – 1:25 – 1:30).
 Standby times for loading and unloading operations are very high and the arms must be
often cleaned.
Fabric/Piece dyeing (rope form):
Machine Specification (overflow machines):
1) Brand Name: Medusa (Maibo)
No. of machine: 4
Capacity: 20-50 meters length of fabric
2) Brand Name: Medusa 10 Flowers (maibo)
No. of machine: 3
3) Brand Name: Soft Flow 99LT (MCS)
No. of machine: 2 (Linked to each other)
Fig 3.29: Over flow machine (Medusa)

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Fig 3.30: Horizontal rope dyeing machine (MCS)
 These dyeing machines are used for dyeing of rope fabrics, with both liquor and materials
moving. The fabric transport system in the machine is driven by a motorized reel and partly by
the sequential flow of the liquor.
 The vessel contains the liquor and liquor enter the straight pipe section and then goes
through the transport canal together with the fabric rope.
 The fabric is subjected only to slight tensile stresses and to small friction forces, thus, the
machine is suitable for delicate fabrics.
 The transport speed of the fabric is adjusted to the reel speed and by the water flow that
the pump pushes the fabric into transport tube (60-250 m/min) and it can work at maximum 98ᵒC.
 MCS Soft flow 99 LT machines increase process flexibility, the machines are twin type,
namely two identical machines can work two different lots separately; the two machines are
linked and process simultaneously the same lot with the same liquor and at the same operating
conditions, thus doubling the loading capacity. And also the possibility of communication with
integrated management SW.
After finishing the dyeing process, the rope fabric put into the hydro-extractor to extract
the excessive water from the fabric. Then by using the scutching machine, the fabric opened into
open width from the tubular form. Then sent to the stenter drying machine for drying the fabric.
But sometimes sent for wet raising process depends on the requirement of the article.

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3.8.2. Dry finishing
Dry finishing is mainly done by air or steam flow to the fabric surface along with the
pressure between the rollers. It is perform to the fabric to give a basic relaxation of the internal
stresses (setting). And also to develop and improve fabric handle and appearance. Now we will
discuss different types of fabric finishing as follows:
3.8.2.1. Stenter Drying
The stenter is one of the most important finishing machines in any plant. The aim of
stenter drying is to remove water from fabric while it is held at predetermined dimensions. The
fabric becomes cohesively set during drying. In stenter drying, the selvedges of a fabric are fed
onto pins or gripped by clips mounted on two endless chains that run in movable guides through
the heating chamber of the stenter. The pins hold the edges of the fabric to a pre-set width
(generally a little wider than wet width), while the fabric is dried. Overfeed/underfeed are often
carried out to relax /stretch the fabric in the warp dimension. To avoid yellowing wool is rarely
dried above 150ᵒC and processing speed vary depends on the type of fabric from 6 to 25 m/min.
And the stenter has the cooling equipment to reduce the temperature of fabric after it emerges
from the heating bays and before it is batched up or folded. The machine is equipped with sensors
at the input, inside and output of the machine to measure such parameters as temperature,
humidity and water content.
Brand Name: Rameuse 2 layer (Effedue)
Type: DLS 2002
Fig 3.31: Stenter drying machine (2 layer)

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This machine is computer controlled. Built on the principle of two level branching,
allowing a halving of the overall dimensions. Oven: each section is composed of two symmetrical
units that allow a perfect balancing of the circuit. Each section is composed of:
- Two centrifugal fans
- Two heating units
- Two series of filters of the type of extraction
- Two blowers groups
- Double duct exhaustion with shutting valves
- Working height adjustment
In the heating chamber, it has a direct gas burner. And air jet made to alter the direction
of the dynamic flow of hot air. It is acting on both surfaces of the fabric, with independent
adjustment of each section. Controlled by the machine management system, absolutely
extraordinary advantage for the final quality: touch, brightness, and direction of the pelt.
This stenter machine has also one padder with weft straighteners (super N-installation)
made by CORINO. Padder is used to adding the chemical for special finish treatments i.e.
softening finish, crease-proof, waterproof, stain proof, stain proof, antibacterial, anti-odor finish.
And we will discuss special finish treatments at the end of this chapter.
3.8.2.2. Raising
The fiber end pulled out of the fabric surface imparts a thermo-insulating effect, in order
to give them a characteristic aspect, which is associated with more bulkiness. To make the fabric
more soft and fuller hand. This enhances the confrontation of the textile material to atmospheric
agents, by improving thermal insulation and warmth provided by the cloistering air cells in the
rest. The uneven surface is produced by pulling the fiber ends out of the yarns by means of metal
wires placed into the rollers that scrape the fabric surface. Raising can be performed on a dry or
wet fabric (with about 60% moisture content, which must be distributed as evenly as possible, for

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instance by soaking and then centrifuging the piece). Lanificio Piacenza in their most of the article
first does wet raising then after few different process again does the dry raising. The effects which
are obtained not only depend on moisture content and type of machinery (with vegetable teasels
or card wire rollers) but also on the nature of fibers, yarn, and fabrics, as well as pre-treatments.
From this point of view, the following observations are important:
a) Raw materials should be chosen in function of the type of article to be manufactured, e.g.
shorter and finer fibers are suitable for a ‘velour’ (with the vertical and dense pile), whereas longer
fibers must be used for blankets or plaids.
b) The influence of yarn structure is decisive: a worsted yarn, with long parallel fibers and
relatively high twist, is not well suited for raising, which is typically applied to woolen fabrics.
c) Raising process is full of mechanical action. To withstand this action, fabric structure
must be strengthened, and this is generally done by subjecting it to a preliminary milling
operation.
d) Raising machine which operates in the normal fashion, the pile is extracted from the weft,
it is better to use some weaves rather than others i.e. sateens with weft effect instead of plain
weaves.
Three basic types of machinery used in raising process.
1) Vegetable teasel machine
2) Wet brushing machine
3) Metallic wires raising machine
Vegetable teasel machine:
This operation is done for best quality fabrics by using teasels from the plant ‘dipsacus
follonum’. A uniform action which is suitable for developing a long and thick pile is provided by
revolving teasels. Which are mounted in such a way that the warp threads are also involved. In
this type of machine, teasels rotate because the fabric drags them, and the fabric tension is, there-

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fore a decisive factor in obtaining the desired effect. The bars
(usually 24 or 36 of them for a drum diameter of 600-900 mm),
are then placed on the circumference of the drum which
constitutes the raising machine. A machine usually consists of
two drums, which rotate in the opposite direction to the fabric
advancement (the first drum can rotate in the reverse direction –
‘counter pile’ - when the felting action is needed. The contact
between the fabric and teasel drum ensured by a number of
cylindrical rods and with the possibility of
maintaining contact pressure and also if needed
one drum can be excluded from out of action. The
uses of old and new teasel bar need to be carried
out on a fabric carefully and for that experienced
operator play an important role. Piacenza has
following vegetable teasel machine:
1) Brand Name: Mario Crosta
Machine type: CHD/90
Manufacturing Year: 1998
No. of drum: 2 (pile/counter pile)
Also with the shearing machine
from Guido Regis
2) Brand Name: Guido Regis
Machine type: GV 96, 21, H1800
Manufacturing Year: 1998 (No shearing machine equipped).
Fig 3.34: Vegetable teasel machine
Fig 3.32: Teasel flower
Fig 3.33: Teasel flower on the drum
rollers

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Wet brushing machine:
Wet brushing gives the final and even direction to already raised pile; it is always done
on soaked (wetted) fabric, using worn teasels. When a particularly lustrous and bright aspect is
required, together with a fair degree of stability, the piece is impregnated with hot water (up to
50ᵒC) and can be allowed to squeeze water while still rolled on the beam (in this way a cohesive
set achieved). In continuous wet brushing machine, including a number of small brushing rollers,
equipped with metallic wires, which are preceded by a wetting trough and followed by a
conventional trough and followed by conventional brushes.
1) Brand name: TMT (Technologia Meccanica Tessile)
Machine type: STC 4D + FC
Manufacturing year: 2005
Fig 3.35: Wet brushing machine
2) Brand name: TMT (Technologia Meccanica Tessile)
Machine type: STC 4D + FC

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The wet brushing machine has 12 rotating brushes for single and double face effect on
pile fabrics. Also there 2 extra brushes in the winding end of the machine. Out of 14 brushes for
the face side has 9 brushes (6 consists metal wires and 3 consists soft horse hair) and for the back
side has 5 brushes (3 consists metal wires and 2 consists soft horse hair). To attain perfect direction
on the fabric, each brush position can be adjusted except 2 brushes in the winding end. Machine
construction is done in such a way that impregnation of fabric is perfect and also uniform and
smooth delivery are done by the compact roll. The direction of the pile is contrary of winding to
avoid rewinding. Depending on the article, after wet brushing the roll rest on a slowly rotating
wheel for 12 to 48 hours before next process.
Metallic wires raising machine:
The metallic wire raising machine can be used for wet or more frequently for dry fabrics,
is composed of one or two drum, which rotates in the same direction as the advancement of the
fabrics, this latter being independently driven. The drum equipped with both pile and counter pile
rollers. In the machines, there are as many pile rollers as counter pile ones. The wire wears out
with use but it can be re-sharpened a number of times before it must be discarded. Pile and counter
pile rollers are removed for sharpening and replaced by sharpened rollers every 1-2 weeks. Wet
fibers are not as stiff as dry fibers, thus, wetting of fabric facilitates raising and reduces fiber
losses. Wool fabrics are frequently raised wet at a regain between 60-70%. Raising occurs only
on one face of a fabric at a time and multiple passes through a single machine often are required
to obtain the desired finish. If both sides of a fabric is to be raised, the fabric must be turned over
between passes through a machine. To increase productivity and reduce space, machines have
two main drums mounted one above the other.

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1) Brand Name: Lafer SPA
Machine type: GRI 228c
No. of drum: 3 each with 22 wire rollers
Equipped with the shearing machine.
Machine type: GLC 128c
No. of drum: 3 each with 22 wire rollers
Equipped with the shearing machine.
Machine type: GRI 128c
No. of drum: 01 with 22 wire rollers and No shearing machine equipped with.
Machine type: GLC 128c
No. of drum: 1 with 32 wire rollers
Built-in shearing system.
In these models all the tasks are carefully observed and controlled by the computer system; in
precise all the instructions are determined by another power motor controlled by ‘sensorless’
vector inverters. The control electric system features:
Fig 3.36: Metallic Wire on rollers
Fig 3.37: Metallic wire raising machine

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- PLC programmable controller for machine and alarms automation;
- Touch-screen to program and update all processing parameters;
- The operation condition of each single raising process that can be stored to facilitate the
batch production.
3.8.2.3. Cropping or Shearing:
This cutting operation, complementary to raising, determines the height of the pile
irregularly raised during the raising process; the resulting effect modified the appearance and the
hand of the fabric, which becomes velvet like. The machine consists of:
- Velveting brush and table
- Shearing table and Shearing cylinder equipped with helical blades
- Fixed counter blade
- Lubrication felt
If a fabric is to be given a clear finish, the surface fibers are cut as short as possible. The fabric
passes over a supporting bed (solid or hollow) which is adjacent to the fixed blade. After the fabric
passes over the angle of the leading edge of the bed, hairs protruding from the surface of the fabric
are cut off. The length of the cropped fibers is controlled by the separation between the bed and
the fixed blade. A solid bed allows closer cropping than a hollow bed. Simple conversion from
solid to hollow bed operation is usually provided on most machines. Solid beds are not suitable
for fabrics that have irregular surfaces on either the face or back and a hollow bed machine should
be used for these fabrics. Dust extractors with large capacity filters must be fitted to remove cut
fiber fragments. The machines Piacenza has can cut both front and back in a single passage.

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Model: CMI 200
3.8.2.4. Decatizing
This process is mainly done on wool by exploiting its elastic properties in hot and wet
conditions by the straight usage of the steam on the fabric. This action gives the treated fabric
following characteristics:
- Dimensional stability
- Setting of pile after raising
- Reduction of possible glazing effect after calendaring, thanks to the swelling caused by
steam blown on fibers;
- Modification of the hand, which is much more consistent after the treatment;
- Pre-stabilization of autoclave dyeing
There are three types of decatizing operation:
- Atmospheric decatizing (Discontinuous)
- Continuous decatizing
- Pressure decatizing (KD)
Atmospheric decatizing:
In Piacenza atmospheric decatizing done in wet and dry both condition. In the case of
wet, the fabric is being impregnated by padding mangle with water and also sometimes with the
presence of chemical named woolset or another one sodium Meta bi sulfite in acidic medium. The
Fig 3.38: Shearing machine (lafer)

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squeezing rollers take out excessive water from the fabric. Then the fabric transfer to the
vapofinish plus decatizing machine. And in the dry condition, decatizing done in the vapofinish
basic decatizing machine.
In the amphoteric decatizing process, fabric is rolled up with a cotton or cotton/synthetic
or (satin or beaverteen or molleton) and steam is forced through the roll up to 10 min (. After
steaming, the fabric and wrapper are cooled by blowing air at room temperature through the roll.
Then the fabric is usually wound off the cylinder, reversed, and then steamed again for a further
period (to prevent ‘ending’ as end to end variations). In the decatizing process, wrapper plays an
important role.
Beaverteen: Raised technical fabric used as a blanket in fabric decatizing process when
the desired effect is a bulky hand and a dull appearance. Technical features of the most common
types of beaverteens: width ranging from 176 to 178 cm, weight varying from 190 to 600 gr/m2
;
thickness 1.5-2 mm; Structure: Polyester warp, cotton weft; polyamide warp, cotton weft; warp
and weft 50% polyester/50% cotton.
Satin: The technical textile used a blanket in discontinuous decatizing (in drum or
autoclave). The main characteristics of a satin are the following:
- Dimensional stability
- Consistent steam permeability
- Resistance to chemical agents and to steam
- No negative side effects
The most common fiber structures are the following:
- Polyester (65-50%)/cotton (35-50%), weft and warp;
- 65% polyester warp/ 35% cotton; 65% cotton warp/35% polyamide.
The life of a satin depends on upon:

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- The presence of chemical products on the fabric
- The quality of the steam.
Molleton: In dry decatizing the used wrapper name ‘Molleton” (warp: 75% cotton / 25%
polyamide and weft: 100% cotton)
1) Brand Name: Bisio S.A.S
Model: Vapofinish Plus
2) Brand Name: BISIO S.P.S
Model: Vapofinish Basic
Year: 2005
Continuous decatizing:
The need to speed up the processing cycles has led to the development of the continuous system,
which gives better output rates, no piece end to end differences, no marks on the fabrics due to
the seams required to sew together the two ends of the piece and sometimes moiré effects. The
only disadvantage is a less powerful effect given by the treatment; in particular an unsuitable
stabilization for all products. The continuous decatizing process carried out under pressure allows
a permanent setting of the wool fabric, which is obtained through a first processing step with
saturated vapor under pressure (which can reach a temperature exceeding 135ᵒC), while a second
cooling step grants the surface and dimensional stabilization. For handling purpose, the fabric is
compressed between a large perforated roller, coated with a heavy fabric and a thick endless
blanket made of dense cotton/polyester felt. All along its path the fabric is treated (using a
different system) with steam supplied by means of special delivering units assembled under the
Fig 3.39: Bisio vapofinish

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conveyor belt in the lower part of the cylinder and subsequently cooled with air. The intensity of
the treatment can be adjusted by adjusting the process speed, the pressure between the cylinder
and the conveyor belt, the moisture
degree and the steam pressure.
Brand Name: Red Carpet
Model: Wool-power
Year: 2015
Pressure Decatizing (Kier decatizing):
- Permanent reduction in fabric thickness.
- Increase in surface smoothness and fabric flexibility
- A change in the relaxed dimension of fabric
- Changes to the dimensional properties of fabric
In the pressure decatizing process, wool fabric is treated in an autoclave (pressurized vessel) with
steam at a pressure greater than the atmospheric one. This occurs while the fabric is interleaved
with a wrapper and wound into a batch on a hollow perforated cylinder.
Brand Name: TMT Biella
Model: PF2000
Year: 2007
Fig 3.40: Continuous decatizing machine (red Carpet)
Fig 3.41: Pressure Decatizing machine (KD)

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Most common basic component:
1. A station to prepare the fabric/wrapper batch and to unroll the batch after steaming;
2. A transfer system to move the batches to and from unroll the batch;
3. An autoclave with heated walls, preferably with connection to a vacuum pump;
4. Provision for cooling the fabric after the treatment.
Once that the textile roll is placed in the autoclave, steam is forced through the layers of
fabric and wrapper. The direction of the steam flow can usually be varied from outside to inside
or alternatively from inside to outside. Before the fabric is steamed under pressure, the air within
the autoclave and the fabric/wrapper assembly must be removed and replaced with steam (purging
with steam). Alternatively, a vacuum pump can be used to remove most of the air before steam is
introduced at a lower pressure. Purging is necessary to ensure that the temperature inside the
pressure vessel reaches the desired value. At a pressure of 2 atm the presence of 20% (by volume)
of air in saturated steam can lower the temperature by 7ᵒC. After the treatment the, the pressure
is released by venting the autoclave to the atmosphere. The fabric/wrapper package is removed
from the autoclave and is usually unrolled while still warm. During the total process of pressure
decatizing, both cohesive and permanent set are introduced into the fabric. The amount of
permanent set imparted increases with increasing temperature (above 100ᵒC), treatment time,
moisture content and pH of the fabric.
Fig 3.42: Auto Clave (KD) Fig 3.43: Fabric Path diagram (KD)

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Automation and control have been continually improved to ensure good repeatability of
machine conditions. As the steam front reaches a particular layer of fabric and condensation
occurs, the condensed water is available for absorption by the fibers of both wool fabric and the
wrapper. The absorption of water by the wool and cotton results in the liberation of energy, known
as heat of sorption, which increases the temperature of the fabric and wrapper above the steam
temperature. The amount of heat released per unit mass of wool depends on the initial and final
regains of the fabric and the wrapper is greatest when the regain is lowest. Pressure decatizing on
wool fabric that has not been adequately conditioned will not only result in a lower level of
permanent set but a greater probability of yellowing due to the temperature of the batch being
considerably above the steam pressure.e.g. A fabric with initial regain of 4% can reach inside the
batch a temperature 10ᵒC higher than the steam temperature of 130ᵒC. Processes usually carried
out before pressure decatizing include drying and rotary pressing. Immediately after these
processes, fabric is likely to have regains between 2% and 8% (far from the ideal value). It is
difficult that fabric will increase its regain significantly while standing in a dry finishing area (low
relative humidity). A conditioning process to increase the regain of fabric to at least 15% is highly
desirable if the efficient permanent setting has to be achieved. The wrapper tension needs to be
carefully controlled. Fabric needs to be restrained under enough pressure to produce the desired
changes in surface texture and fabric thickness. Sometimes the wrapper pressure alone reduces
the fabric thickness to the required level (no need for a further pressing operation). Reduction in
bending stiffness and shear rigidity can be observed. The requirement for permanent setting has
to be balanced against the yellowing wool which occurs at high temperatures. Fabric yellowing
during pressure decatizing increases with the temperature at which fabric is steamed. Yellowing
can be affected by the early regain of the fabric.
3.8.2.5. Steaming
Steaming can be done for maintaining dimensional stability and also the width of the
fabric. But this two function can be done by using different types of machine.

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a) Sponging (tensionless steaming):
The tensionless steaming process of wool fabrics is the most widely used technique to
obtain a good dimensional stability to ironing with the press.
Brand Name: Sperotto Rimar
Model: Universa
Year: 2006
Fig 3.44: Tensionless steaming machine (Universa)
This machine is designed for controlling the shrinkage and relaxation property of wool
fabrics. Because of the special design consumption of steam really low and also use and cleaning
is easy. The tensionless steaming units can be divided into four main sections:
1) Feeding section: The fabric is directed to the motor is driven feed roller placed at the
machine inlet and then laid on a conveyor belt by means of an overfeeding system. The motor-
powered cylindrical roll, protected with the anti-slippery material, places the fabric on the
conveyor belt. The degree of overfeeding maintained by correcting the roll speed. This can be
done manually by a potentiometer or automatically by a photocell also to distinguish the position
of the fabric.

Quality Control of High-Quality Fabrics Production

Quality Control of High-Quality Fabrics Production

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